FR2835427A1 - COSMETOLOGICAL AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON BARBATIMAO EXTRACT - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of compositions useful in dermatology and cosmetology. The composition of the invention is distinguished in that it comprises an extract of barbatimao, preferably obtained by maceration of barks. Application to firming of the skin.

Description

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 The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic and dermatological compositions, and more particularly it relates to a novel composition comprising an active ingredient extracted from a plant substance having skin firming properties useful in cosmetology as well as in dermatology.

 The skin has several layers, ranging from the superficial layers, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its skin. environment. The epidermis, which constitutes the outer layer, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. This is why many compositions have been developed to protect and improve its functions, including strengthening its elasticity and firmness.

 The compositions for the treatment and care of the skin must have a set of activities that can be used for cosmetic and dermatological purposes. In particular, compositions which combine moisturizing and protective properties of the skin against environmental aggressions or aging, manifesting themselves in the formation of wrinkles and spots, and a loss of elasticity and firmness, are generally sought. skin.

Various compounds have been proposed in the cosmetological field to give compositions astringent activity vis-à-vis the skin, in order to develop cosmetic compositions presented as having firming properties. In particular, there are known a few plants which contain substances having astringent activity which can be used to provide a tensioning and firming effect on the skin.

Thus, the patent application WO 99 22706 describes compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use comprising a plant extract obtained from the flower of the

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 Shea tree or Butyrospermum parkii Kotschy. Such compositions can be used for the treatment of cutaneous dryness, certain skin conditions such as dermatitis, and also cosmetological care because of their refreshing, deodorizing, astringent, healing and firming properties. These substances can be obtained by extraction or distillation of dried flowers.

 It has also been proposed to use extracts of the bark of the plant Terminalia catappa ("badamier des Indes") in dermatological compositions because of their astringent activity causing a surface tension effect of the skin. In traditional medicine the leaves are also used internally for their anti-rheumatic activity, and externally for the treatment of dermatological conditions. Such compositions are described in patent FR 2,753. 371. Certain substances extracted from the bark of trees such as walnut, oak and elderberry, which have similar properties, are also known.

 Despite the existence of these various known products, there remains in the field of cosmetology a need for new compositions comprising at least one active ingredient having firming properties of the skin, which can be associated with other compounds having an activity. complementary.

 The barbatimao is a tree that is found more particularly in South America, especially in northern Brazil where it is also called "mimosa of Brazil". Its bark has long been used locally for its healing and anti-haemorrhoidal properties, as well as for leather tanning. However, the Applicant has carried out work which has revealed that barbatimao extracts can be used in cosmetology in compositions intended to firm the skin.

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 The subject of the present invention is therefore a novel composition that can be used in cosmetics and / or in dermatology, comprising a barbatimao extract.

 The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition that can be used topically on the basis of dry extract of barbatimao, in combination with other active compounds.

 The invention also relates to the topical use of a composition as indicated above for the treatment and prevention of signs of skin aging such as loss of skin tone and the use of a barbatimao extract for the preparation of a dermatological composition for firming the skin.

 Finally, the subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by application of a composition based on barbatimao extract.

 In accordance with conventional terminology, the term "topical administration" or "topical use" as used herein refers to any method of applying the composition directly to the skin.

 The barbatimao extract used in the invention is preferably obtained from the barks of the tree, which can be collected regularly because they reform quickly on the trunk.

 The extraction process used in the invention consists in carrying out an extraction of a known type, for example by macerating the barks in water for 2 to 10 days at room temperature, atomization and adsorption on an appropriate support, for example. example a maltodextrin type support.

The extract thus obtained contains in particular flavonoids.

 Before maceration, the barks are preferably treated by grinding.

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 Other conventional extraction methods of the art can also be used, and for example can be carried out by extraction in solvents or by reflux extraction.

 The compositions prepared according to the present invention have been subjected to in vivo tests which have demonstrated their excellent astringent and firming properties of the skin.

 The compositions of the invention may contain a barbatimao extract at a concentration that is cosmetically and / or dermatologically effective, generally between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.05 and 1% by weight. The barbatimao extract according to the present invention can be used in liquid form or as a dry extract, either as such, or after being in the form of a microcapsule or liposomes.

 In addition to the barbatimao extract indicated above, the composition according to the present invention may advantageously contain a hydrogenated lecithin.

 The hydrogenated lecithin used in the invention is preferably a hydrogenated soy lecithin or a hydrogenated sunflower lecithin. Commercially available lecithins generally contain pure lecithin (phosphatidyl choline) in admixture with other phosphoglycerides such as cephalin (especially phosphatidyl ethanolamine) and phosphatidyl inositol. According to the invention, it is possible to use hydrogenated pure lecithin or a hydrogenated trade lecithin. An example of hydrogenated lecithin usable in the invention is that sold under the trade name Emulmetik 320® by the company Lucas Mayer (hydrogenated soy lecithin).

 More specifically, the content of hydrogenated lecithin is generally between 0.1 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight. Hydrogenated lecithin can advantageously

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 be associated with an alkyl chain alcohol having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and especially a C12-Cl6 alcohol.

 The composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a silanol or a silanol derivative.

méthylsilanol (Algisium C), le mannuronate de sodium de méthylsilanol (Algisium), le hyaluronate de diméthylsilanol (D. S. H. C), le hyaluronate de sodium de diméthylsilanol (D. S. H), l'ascorbyl méthylsilanol, le lactate de sodium de méthylsilanol (Lasilium). Among the most commonly used silanol derivatives, and more particularly the methyl silanol derivatives, mention may be made inter alia of mannuronate of

methylsilanol (Algisium C), methylsilanol sodium mannuronate (Algisium), dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSH C), dimethylsilanol sodium hyaluronate (DS H), ascorbyl methylsilanol, methylsilanol sodium lactate (Lasilium) .

 The composition according to the present invention may further contain various adjuvants and excipients commonly used in the techniques of cosmetic and dermatological compositions. It may for example contain preservatives, thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, emulsifying agents, humectants, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, surfactants, perfumes, and various additives for improving the physical properties of the composition .

 The gelling agents or thickeners may, for example, be chosen from acrylate copolymers, for example polymethyl methacrylate, or natural gums, for example a xanthan gum. A component such as perfluorodecalin may advantageously be incorporated to improve the lubricity of such a composition.

 The moisturizing or humectant agent may be chosen from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, glycerol, glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, glyceryl polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, glycerol or Glycerol derivatives. In general, any moisturizing agent suitable for cosmetic or dermatological compositions may be used in the present invention. The humectant is advantageous

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 it is introduced into the aqueous phase during the preparation of the emulsion. The humectant content is generally between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

 The usual preservatives of the technique of cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the invention, and for example alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and isopropanol, benzoic acid or a p-hydroxyethyl alcohol. alkyl benzoate, and in particular methyl p-hydroxy-benzoate (methylparaben) and propylparaben (propylparaben), or chlorphenesine and imidazolidinyl urea, these compounds may be used singly or in combination.

 Ultraviolet protection agents may also be incorporated in the compositions, and for example sunscreens such as benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, or cinnamate and more particularly ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

 It is also possible to use anti-ultraviolet screen pigments, which may for example be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or aluminum oxide.

 The compositions may be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions or water-in-oil emulsions, milks, gels, lotions, masks, sticks or ointments, and may be used in particular for the protection of the skin.

 A preferred embodiment of the invention is in the form of cream, gel or milk.

 The composition of the invention is particularly useful and effective for the daily care of the skin, especially in people with fragile skin or exposed to the risk of aggression of the environment or various conditions.

 As indicated above, the barbatimao extract used in the present invention can be obtained by maceration

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 bark of the tree. For this purpose, freshly harvested bark is crushed and macerated in water at a temperature of 25 to 300C for a period of 4 to 6 days and the macerate is atomized and adsorbed on a maltodextrin support type. After drying, the extract thus obtained is in the form of a powder which can be used as it is in the cosmetic and dermatological compositions.

 The extract is incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological compositions by any usual means.

 The features and advantages of the present invention will appear in more detail in the description which follows, relating to preferred embodiments.

In these examples, parts and percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1
A firming cosmetic cream is prepared using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological products industry.

 The preparation process consists, for example, in preparing the fatty phase, heating it to a temperature of the order of 75 to 80 ° C., then adding thereto the aqueous phase containing the barbatimao extract and cooling progressively with stirring.

The weight composition of the cream is indicated below.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Extract <SEP> Dry <SEP> from <SEP> barbatimao <SEP> 0,50
<tb> EDTA <SEP> tetrasodium <SEP> 0.10
<tb> glycerin <SEP> 2.00
<tb> butylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 4.00
<tb> gum <SEP> xanthan <SEP> 0.20
<tb> cetearyl <SEP> glucoside <SEP> 4.00
<tb> tristearin <SEP> 0.75
<tb> acetyl <SEP> glycol <SEP> stearate <SEP> 0.75
<tb> alcohol <SEP> Cetyl <SEP> 1.00
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> Isoparaffin <SEP> C12-14 <SEP> 3, <SEP> 00
<tb> phenyl <SEP> dimethicone <SEP> 1.00
<tb> cyclopentasiloxane <SEP> 4.00
<tb> tocopherol <SEP> 0.70
<tb> oil <SEP> of <SEP> loofa <SEP> 0.80
<tb> copolymer <SEP> acrylate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium / taurate
<tb> of <SEP> dimethyl <SEP> acryloyl <SEP> 0.50
<tb> isohexadecane <SEP> 0.25
<tb> Polysorbate <SEP> 80 <SEP> 0.15
<tb> dimethiconol <SEP> 0.20
<tb> extract <SEP> from <SEP> medlar <SEP> from <SEP> Japan <SEP> 1.00
<tb> extract <SEP> from <SEP> Kigelia <SEP> africana <SEP> 2.00
<tb> lactate <SEP> of <SEP> methylsilanol <SEP> 2.00
<tb> conservative <SEP> 2.00
<tb> perfume <SEP> 0.10
<tb> water <SEP> q. <SEP> s. <SEP> p. <SEP> 100.00
<Tb>

This cream can be applied to the skin of the arms, face and neck once or twice a day.

Example 2
A firming gel is prepared using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological products industry.

The weight composition of the gel is indicated below.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Extract <SEP> dry <SEP> from <SEP> barbatimao <SEP> 0,10
<tb> butylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 3.00
<tb> polyethylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 1.00
<tb> Carbomer <SEP> 1.00
<tb> EDTA <SEP> tetrasodium <SEP> 0.10
<tb> phenoxyethanol <SEP> 0.20
<tb> alcohol <SEP> ethyl <SEP> 96% <SEP> vol. <SEP> 30,00
<tb> menthol <SEP> 0.20
<tb> tromethamine <SEP> 1.30
<tb> sulfate <SEP> of <SEP> dextran <SEP> 0.50
<tb> mannuronate <SEP> of <SEP> methylsilanol <SEP> 1.00
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> polyacrylate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 0.50
<tb> extract <SEP> from <SEP> Ruscus <SEP> aculeatus <SEP> 5.00
<tb> perfume <SEP> 0.10
<tb> preservatives <SEP> 0.10
<tb> Water <SEP> q. <SEP> s. <SEP> p. <SEP> 100.00
<Tb>

Example 3
A firming milk is prepared, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological products industry.

The weight composition of the milk is indicated below.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Extract <SEP> dry <SEP> from <SEP> barbatimao <SEP> 0.20
<tb> glycerine <SEP> 0.10
<tb> EDTA <SEP> tetrasodium <SEP> 0.20
<tb> butylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 4.00
<tb> gum <SEP> xanthan <SEP> 0.15
<tb> hydrogenated lecithin <SEP><SEP> 1.00
<tb> alcohol <SEP> C12-16 <SEP> 2.50
<tb> acid <SEP> palmitic <SEP> 0.95
<tb> carbomer <SEP> 0.10
<tb> tromethamine <SEP> 0.10
<tb> oil <SEP> of <SEP> coconut <SEP> hydrogenated <SEP> 6,00
<tb> octyl <SEP> dodecanol <SEP> 8.00
<tb> diheptanoate <SEP> of <SEP> neopentyl <SEP> glycol <SEP> 1.50
<tb> tocopherol <SEP> 0.70
<tb> copolymer <SEP> acrylate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium / taurate
<tb> of <SEP> dimethyl <SEP> acryloyl <SEP> 0.50
<tb> isohexadecane <SEP> 0.25
<tb> Polysorbate <SEP> 80 <SEP> 0.15
<tb> extract <SEP> of hibiscus <SEP> esculentus <SEP> 1.00
<tb> glycogen <SEP> biotechnology <SEP> 0.02
<tb> fragrances <SEP> 0,10
<tb> preservatives <SEP> 0.35
<tb> Water <SEP> q. <SEP> s. <SEP> p. <SEP> 100.00
<Tb>

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Example 4 Evaluation of the firming effect
The firming effect of a milk having the composition indicated in Example 3, but varying the concentration of barbatimao extract, was evaluated on a homogeneous sample of adult volunteers aged between 40 and 65, following a standardized procedure.

 The technique used to evaluate the extensibility and elasticity variations of the cutaneous superficial layers is based on the measurement of the torsion of the skin by a probe.

 According to this technique, torsional stress is applied to an annular area of the skin between a 20 mm movable disk and a fixed concentric ring by means of a double-sided adhesive. The angle of rotation of the disk is measured by an angular sensor.

 When the engine torque is applied, the center disk rotates instantaneously by an angle Ue, and the angle of rotation continues to grow more slowly at an angle Uv. After stopping the torsion, the skin returns to its initial state in two stages (rapid deformation Ur, then slow to the origin). Five deformation cycles are thus carried out, each duration of application of the torsion torque being 2 seconds.

We can thus evaluate the rheological parameters (extensibility, deformation and retraction) and biomechanical parameters (tension, firmness and tonicity).

 Measurements are done first on the forearm of volunteers who have not received a product since yesterday.

Then the test product (barbatimao milk) is applied to the test area at a rate of 2 μl / cm 2. A new measurement series is carried out 4 hours after application of the product.

 It is observed that, four hours after a single standardized application, compared with a non

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 treated, barbatimao milk provides a clear skin firming effect (improving tension, tone and skin firmness) in four out of five volunteers.

 The measurements confirm the firming effect at concentrations of dry extract ranging from 0.1 to 0.3%, in the case of a formulation in the form of milk.

 These measurements highlight the good effectiveness of the composition of the invention for the firming of the skin and more generally for the treatment of signs of skin aging.

Claims (9)

Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition usable topically for the firming of the skin, characterized in that it contains an extract of barbatimao.  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract is obtained from barbatimao bark.  3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract is obtained by maceration in water at room temperature.  4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the barbatimao extract is in the form of dry extract.  5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it comprises a barbatimao extract in a weight concentration of between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the concentration of the barbatimao extract is between 0.05 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of cream, gel or milk.  8. Use of a barbatimao extract for the preparation of a dermatological composition for the treatment and prevention of the signs of skin aging.  9. Cosmetic skin treatment process characterized in that it consists in applying to the areas of the skin to be treated an effective amount of a composition based on barbatimao extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7. .