EP1471882A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on barbitamao extract - Google Patents

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on barbitamao extract

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Publication number
EP1471882A1
EP1471882A1 EP03718829A EP03718829A EP1471882A1 EP 1471882 A1 EP1471882 A1 EP 1471882A1 EP 03718829 A EP03718829 A EP 03718829A EP 03718829 A EP03718829 A EP 03718829A EP 1471882 A1 EP1471882 A1 EP 1471882A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
extract
barbitamao
skin
composition
cosmetic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP03718829A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jacques Leclere
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoire Nuxe SA
Original Assignee
Laboratoire Nuxe SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoire Nuxe SA filed Critical Laboratoire Nuxe SA
Publication of EP1471882A1 publication Critical patent/EP1471882A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetic and dermatological compositions, and more particularly it relates to a new composition comprising an active principle extracted from a plant substance having skin firming properties useful in cosmetology as well as in dermatology.
  • the skin comprises several layers, ranging from the superficial layers, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment.
  • the epidermis which constitutes the outer layer, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. This is why numerous compositions have been developed in order to protect it and improve its functions, and in particular to strengthen its elasticity and firmness.
  • compositions intended for the treatment and care of the skin must have a set of activities which can be used cosmetically and dermatologically.
  • compositions are generally sought which combine properties of hydration and protection of the skin against environmental aggressions or aging, manifested by the formation of wrinkles and spots, and a loss of elasticity and firmness.
  • skin Various compounds have been proposed in the cosmetics field to give compositions an astringent activity with respect to the skin, in order to develop cosmetic compositions presented as having firming properties.
  • Some plants are known in particular which contain substances having an astringent activity which can be used to provide a tensioning and firming effect on the skin.
  • compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use comprising a plant extract obtained from the flower of the shea tree or Butyrospermum parkii Kotschy.
  • Such compositions can be used for the treatment of skin dryness, certain skin conditions such as dermatitis, and also for cosmetic care because of their refreshing, deodorizing, astringent, healing and firming properties.
  • These substances can be obtained by extraction or distillation of dried flowers.
  • compositions comprising at least one active principle having firming properties for the skin, capable of being combined with other compounds having complementary activity.
  • the barbitamao is a tree that is found more particularly in South America, especially in the north of Brazil where it is also called "Brazilian mimosa”. Despite its name, this tree is different from plants of the genus Mimosa, such as Mimosa tenuiflora and Mimosa pudica, and is related to the species Stryphnodendron adtringens, close to Acacia adtringens according to the Plantarum Index (G. Penso). Its bark has long been used locally for its healing and anti-hemorrhoidal properties, as well as for tanning leathers. However, the Applicant has carried out work which has revealed that extracts of barbitamao can be used in cosmetology in compositions intended to firm the skin.
  • the present invention therefore relates to a new composition which can be used in cosmetics and / or in dermatology, comprising an extract of barbitamao.
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition which can be used topically based on barbitamao dry extract, in combination with other active compounds.
  • a subject of the invention is also the topical use of a composition as indicated above for the treatment and prevention of signs of skin aging such as loss of skin tone as well as the use of a barbitamao extract for the preparation of a dermatological composition for firming the skin.
  • the subject of the present invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin by application of a composition based on barbitamao extract.
  • topical administration or “use by topical” used here designates any method consisting in applying the composition directly to the skin.
  • the barbitamao extract used in the invention is preferably obtained from the barks of the tree, which can be collected regularly because they reform quickly on the trunk.
  • the extraction method used in the invention consists in carrying out an extraction of a known type, for example by maceration of the bark in water for 2 to 10 days at room temperature, atomization and adsorption on an appropriate support, by example a maltodextrin type support.
  • the extract thus obtained contains in particular flavonoids.
  • the bark is preferably treated by grinding.
  • Other conventional extraction methods of the art can also be used, and for example one can proceed by extraction in solvents or by reflux extraction.
  • compositions prepared in accordance with the present invention have been subjected to in vivo tests which have demonstrated their excellent astringent and firming properties for the skin.
  • compositions of the invention may contain a barbitamao extract at a concentration effective by weight on the cosmetic and / or dermatological level, generally between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.05 and 1% by weight.
  • the barbitamao extract according to the present invention can be used in liquid or dry extract form, either as it is, or after being placed in the form of a microcapsule or liposomes.
  • composition in accordance with the present invention may advantageously contain a hydrogenated lecithin.
  • the hydrogenated lecithin used in the invention is preferably a hydrogenated soy lecithin or a lecithin hydrogenated sunflower.
  • the commercially available lecithins generally contain pure lecithin (phosphatidyl choline) in admixture with other phosphoglycerides such as cephalin (in particular phosphatidyl ethanolamine) and phosphatidyl inositol.
  • cephalin in particular phosphatidyl ethanolamine
  • phosphatidyl inositol phosphatidyl inositol.
  • An example of hydrogenated lecithin which can be used in the invention is that sold commercially under the brand Emulmetik 320® by the company Lucas Mayer (hydrogenated soy lecithin).
  • the content of hydrogenated lecithin is generally between 0.1 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.
  • the hydrogenated lecithin can advantageously be combined with an alcohol with an alkyl chain comprising 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ⁇ 2 -C ⁇ 6 alcohol.
  • composition of the invention can also advantageously contain a silanol or a silanol derivative.
  • silanol mannuronate Algisium C ®
  • sodium mannuronate methylsilanol Algisium ®
  • DSHC ® sodium hyaluronate ⁇ dimethylsilanol
  • DSH ® sodium hyaluronate ⁇ dimethylsilanol
  • DSH ® sodium hyaluronate ⁇ dimethylsilanol
  • Ascorbyl methylsilanol sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ®).
  • composition according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants and excipients commonly used in the techniques of cosmetic and dermatological compositions. It can for example contain preservatives, thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, emulsifying agents, humectants, antioxidants, hydrating agents, surfactants, perfumes, and various additives intended to improve the physical properties of the composition. .
  • the gelling agents or thickeners can, for example, be chosen from acrylate copolymers, for example polymethyl methacrylate, or natural gums, for example xanthan gum.
  • a component such as perfluorodecaline can be advantageously incorporated to improve the smoothness of such a composition.
  • the moisturizing or humectant agent can be chosen from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, glycerin, glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates of glyceryl, glycerol or glycerol derivatives.
  • any hydrating agent suitable for cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the present invention.
  • the humectant is advantageously introduced into the aqueous phase during the preparation of the emulsion.
  • the content of humectant is generally between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the usual preservatives of the technique of cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the invention, and for example alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and isopropanol, benzoic acid or a p-hydroxy- alkyl benzoate, and in particular methyl p-hydroxy benzoate (Methylparaben) and propyl p-hydroxy benzoate (Propylparaben), or also chlorphenesin and imidazolidinyl urea, these compounds being able to be used in isolation or in combination.
  • alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and isopropanol
  • benzoic acid or a p-hydroxy- alkyl benzoate and in particular methyl p-hydroxy benzoate (Methylparaben) and propyl p-hydroxy benzoate (Propylparaben)
  • Methylparaben methyl p-hydroxy benzoate
  • Ultraviolet protection agents can also be incorporated into the compositions, and for example sunscreens such as benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, or a cinnamate and more particularly ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
  • sunscreens such as benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, or a cinnamate and more particularly ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
  • pigments forming an anti-ultraviolet screen which can for example be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or aluminum.
  • compositions can be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions or water-in-oil emulsions, milks, gels, lotions, masks, sticks or ointments, and can be used in particular for protecting the skin.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention is in the form of a cream, gel or milk.
  • the composition of the invention proves to be particularly useful and effective for ensuring the daily care of the skin, in particular in subjects with fragile skin or exposed to risks of environmental aggression or various affections.
  • the barbitamao extract used in the present invention can be obtained by maceration of tree bark. For this purpose, freshly removed bark is ground and macerated in water at a temperature of 25 to 30 ° C for a period of 4 to 6 days, then the macerate is atomized and adsorbed on a support of maltodextrin type. After drying, the extract thus obtained is in powder form which can be used as it is in cosmetic and dermatological compositions.
  • the extract is incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological compositions by any usual means.
  • a firming cosmetic cream is prepared, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry.
  • the preparation process consists, for example, in preparing the fatty phase, in heating it to a temperature of the order of
  • the weight composition of the cream is indicated below.
  • Tetrasodium EDTA o .10 glycerin 2, • 00 butylene glycol 4, 00 xanthan gum o, 20 cetaryl glucoside 4, • 00 tristearin o, .75 acetyl glycol stearate o, 75 cetyl alcohol 1, 00
  • a firming gel is prepared, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry.
  • the weight composition of the gel is indicated below.
  • a firming milk is prepared, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry.
  • the weight composition of the milk is indicated below.
  • the technique used to evaluate the variations in extensibility and elasticity of the cutaneous surface layers is based on the measurement of the torsion of the skin by a probe.
  • a torsional stress is applied to an annular area of the skin between a 20 mm movable disc and a fixed concentric ring, using a double-sided adhesive.
  • the angle of rotation of the disc is measured by an angular sensor.
  • the central disc When applying the engine torque, the central disc instantly pivots by an angle Ue, then the angle of rotation continues to grow more slowly by an angle Uv. After stopping the torque, the skin returns to its initial state in two stages (rapid deformation Ur, then slow to the origin). Five deformation cycles are thus carried out, each duration of application of the torque being 2 seconds.
  • the measurements are taken first of all on the forearms of volunteers who have not received any product since the previous day. Then the product to be tested (barbitamao-based milk) is applied to the area to be tested at the rate of 2 ⁇ l / cm 2 . A new series of measurements is carried out 4 hours after application of the product. It is then observed that, four hours after a single standardized application, in comparison with an untreated area, the barbitamao-based milk provides a marked firming effect on the skin (improvement in tension, tone and firmness of the skin ) in four out of five volunteers.
  • the product to be tested barbitamao-based milk
  • the measurements confirm the firming effect at dry extract concentrations varying from 0.1 to 0.3%, in the case of a formulation in the form of milk.

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Abstract

The invention concerns the field of compositions useful in dermatology and in cosmetics. The inventive composition is characterized in that it comprises a barbitamao extract, preferably obtained by bark maceration. The invention is useful for skin firmness.

Description

COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE ET/OU DERMATOLOGIQUE A BASE D'EXTRAIT DE BARBITAMAO COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON BARBITAMAO EXTRACT
La présente invention concerne le domaine des compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques, et plus particulièrement elle concerne une nouvelle composition comprenant un principe actif extrait d'une substance végétale présentant des propriétés raf ermissantes de la peau utiles en cosmétologie ainsi qu'en dermatologie.The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic and dermatological compositions, and more particularly it relates to a new composition comprising an active principle extracted from a plant substance having skin firming properties useful in cosmetology as well as in dermatology.
La peau comprend plusieurs couches, allant des couches superficielles, l'épiderme, jusqu'au couches plus profondes, le derme et l'hypoderme, et chacune possède des propriétés spécifiques permettant à l'ensemble de réagir et s'adapter aux conditions de son environnement. L'épiderme, qui constitue la couche externe, joue un rôle fondamental pour assurer la protection et le maintien d'une bonne trophicité. C'est pourquoi de nombreuses compositions ont été mises au point afin de le protéger et d'améliorer ses fonctions, et notamment de renforcer son élasticité et sa fermeté.The skin comprises several layers, ranging from the superficial layers, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment. The epidermis, which constitutes the outer layer, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. This is why numerous compositions have been developed in order to protect it and improve its functions, and in particular to strengthen its elasticity and firmness.
Les compositions destinées au traitement et aux soins de la peau doivent posséder un ensemble d'activités utilisables sur les plans cosmétique et dermatologique. En particulier on recherche généralement des compositions associant des propriétés d'hydratation et de protection de la peau contre les agressions de l'environnement ou le vieillissement, se manifestant par la formation de rides et de taches, et une perte d'élasticité et de fermeté de la peau. Divers composés ont été proposés dans le domaine cos é- tologique pour conférer à des compositions une activité astringente vis-à-vis de la peau, afin de mettre au point des compositions cosmétiques présentées comme ayant des propriétés raffermissantes. On connaît en particulier quelques plantes qui contiennent des substances présentant une activité astringente qui peut être mise à profit pour procurer un effet de tension et de raffermissement de la peau. Ainsi, la demande de brevet WO 99.22706 décrit des compositions à usage cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique comprenant un extrait végétal obtenu à partir de la fleur de l'arbre à Karité (shea tree) ou Butyrospermum parkii Kotschy. De telles compositions peuvent être utilisées pour le traitement de la sécheresse cutanée, de certaines affections de la peau comme les dermites, et aussi pour les soins cosmétologiques en raison de leurs propriétés rafraîchissantes, désodorisantes, astringentes, cicatrisantes et raffermissantes. Ces substances peuvent être obtenues par extraction ou distillation de fleurs séchées .The compositions intended for the treatment and care of the skin must have a set of activities which can be used cosmetically and dermatologically. In particular, compositions are generally sought which combine properties of hydration and protection of the skin against environmental aggressions or aging, manifested by the formation of wrinkles and spots, and a loss of elasticity and firmness. skin. Various compounds have been proposed in the cosmetics field to give compositions an astringent activity with respect to the skin, in order to develop cosmetic compositions presented as having firming properties. Some plants are known in particular which contain substances having an astringent activity which can be used to provide a tensioning and firming effect on the skin. Thus, patent application WO 99.22706 describes compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use comprising a plant extract obtained from the flower of the shea tree or Butyrospermum parkii Kotschy. Such compositions can be used for the treatment of skin dryness, certain skin conditions such as dermatitis, and also for cosmetic care because of their refreshing, deodorizing, astringent, healing and firming properties. These substances can be obtained by extraction or distillation of dried flowers.
On a également proposé d'utiliser des extraits de 1 ' écorce de la plante Terminalia catappa ("badamier des Indes") dans des compositions dermatologiques en raison de leur activité astringente provoquant un effet de tension superficielle de la peau. En médecine traditionnelle les feuilles sont aussi utilisées par voie interne pour leur activité anti-rhumatismale, et par voie externe pour le traitement d'affections dermatologiques. De telles composi- tions sont décrites dans le brevet FR 2.753.371. On connaît aussi certaines substances extraites de l' écorce d'arbres tels que le noyer, le chêne et le sureau, qui présentent des propriétés similaires. La demande WO 01.07008 décrit des extraits phénoliques de plantes du genre Mimosa, en particulier l'espèce Mimosa pudica, qui contiennent des flavonoides. Ces extraits ont la propriété d'augmenter les taux de collagène dans les cellules de la peau et peuvent être utiles pour la prévention des rides de la peau. Un extrait obtenu à partir de l' écorce de Mimosa tenuiflora cultivé au Mexique, possédant des propriétés régénératrices de l'épiderme utiles pour le traitement des brûlures, est décrit dans le brevet FR 2.633.184.It has also been proposed to use extracts of the bark of the Terminalia catappa plant ("Badamier des Indes") in dermatological compositions because of their astringent activity causing a surface tension effect on the skin. In traditional medicine the leaves are also used internally for their anti-rheumatic activity, and externally for the treatment of dermatological conditions. Such compositions are described in patent FR 2,753,371. There are also known certain substances extracted from the bark of trees such as walnut, oak and elderberry, which have similar properties. Application WO 01.07008 describes phenolic extracts from plants of the genus Mimosa, in particular the species Mimosa pudica, which contain flavonoids. These extracts have the property of increasing the levels of collagen in the skin cells and can be useful for the prevention of skin wrinkles. An extract obtained from the bark of Mimosa tenuiflora cultivated in Mexico, having regenerative properties of the epidermis useful for the treatment of burns, is described in patent FR 2,633,184.
Malgré l'existence de ces divers produits connus, il subsiste dans le domaine de la cosmétologie un besoin de nouvelles compositions comprenant au moins un principe actif possédant des propriétés raffermissantes de la peau, susceptible d'être associé à d'autres composés ayant une activité complémentaire.Despite the existence of these various known products, there remains in the field of cosmetology a need for new compositions comprising at least one active principle having firming properties for the skin, capable of being combined with other compounds having complementary activity.
Le barbitamao est un arbre que l'on trouve plus particulièrement en Amérique du Sud, notamment dans le nord du Brésil où il est aussi dénommé "mimosa du Brésil". Malgré son nom, cet arbre est différent des plantes du genre Mimosa, telles que Mimosa tenuiflora et Mimosa pudica, et se rattache à l'espèce Stryphnodendron adtringens, voisine de Acacia adtringens selon l'Index Plantarum (G. Penso) . Son écorce a longtemps été utilisée localement pour ses propriétés cicatrisantes et antihémorroïdaires, ainsi que pour le tannage des cuirs. Or, la demanderesse a réalisé des travaux qui ont révélé que des extraits de barbitamao peuvent être utilisés en cosmétologie dans des compositions destinées à raffermir la peau.The barbitamao is a tree that is found more particularly in South America, especially in the north of Brazil where it is also called "Brazilian mimosa". Despite its name, this tree is different from plants of the genus Mimosa, such as Mimosa tenuiflora and Mimosa pudica, and is related to the species Stryphnodendron adtringens, close to Acacia adtringens according to the Plantarum Index (G. Penso). Its bark has long been used locally for its healing and anti-hemorrhoidal properties, as well as for tanning leathers. However, the Applicant has carried out work which has revealed that extracts of barbitamao can be used in cosmetology in compositions intended to firm the skin.
La présente invention a donc pour objet une nouvelle composition utilisable en cosmétique et/ou en dermatologie, comprenant un extrait de barbitamao. L'invention a aussi pour objet une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique utilisable par voie topique à base d'extrait sec de barbitamao, en association avec d'autres composés actifs.The present invention therefore relates to a new composition which can be used in cosmetics and / or in dermatology, comprising an extract of barbitamao. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition which can be used topically based on barbitamao dry extract, in combination with other active compounds.
L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation par voie topique d'une composition comme indiqué ci-dessus pour le traitement et la prévention des signes du vieillissement cutané tels que la perte de tonicité de la peau ainsi que l'utilisation d'un extrait de barbitamao pour la préparation d'une composition dermatologique pour le raffermissement de la peau.A subject of the invention is also the topical use of a composition as indicated above for the treatment and prevention of signs of skin aging such as loss of skin tone as well as the use of a barbitamao extract for the preparation of a dermatological composition for firming the skin.
Enfin, la présente invention a pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau par application d'une composition à base d'extrait de barbitamao.Finally, the subject of the present invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin by application of a composition based on barbitamao extract.
Conformément à une terminologie classique, l'expression "administration par voie topique" ou "utilisation par voie topique" utilisée ici désigne toute méthode consistant à appliquer la composition directement sur la peau.In accordance with conventional terminology, the expression "topical administration" or "use by topical "used here designates any method consisting in applying the composition directly to the skin.
L'extrait de barbitamao utilisé dans l'invention est de préférence obtenu à partir des écorces de l'arbre, qui peuvent être recueillies régulièrement car elles se reforment rapidement sur le tronc.The barbitamao extract used in the invention is preferably obtained from the barks of the tree, which can be collected regularly because they reform quickly on the trunk.
Le procédé d'extraction utilisé dans l'invention consiste à effectuer une extraction d'un type connu, par exemple par macération des écorces dans de l'eau pendant 2 à 10 jours à température ambiante, atomisation et adsorption sur un support approprié, par exemple un support de type maltodextrine. L'extrait ainsi obtenu contient notamment des flavonoïdes.The extraction method used in the invention consists in carrying out an extraction of a known type, for example by maceration of the bark in water for 2 to 10 days at room temperature, atomization and adsorption on an appropriate support, by example a maltodextrin type support. The extract thus obtained contains in particular flavonoids.
Avant macération, les écorces sont de préférence traitées par broyage. D'autres procédés d'extraction classiques de la technique peuvent aussi être utilisés, et par exemple on peut procéder par extraction dans des solvants ou par extraction à reflux.Before maceration, the bark is preferably treated by grinding. Other conventional extraction methods of the art can also be used, and for example one can proceed by extraction in solvents or by reflux extraction.
Les compositions préparées conformément à la présente invention ont été soumises à des essais in vivo qui ont mis en évidence leurs excellentes propriétés astringentes et raffermissantes de la peau.The compositions prepared in accordance with the present invention have been subjected to in vivo tests which have demonstrated their excellent astringent and firming properties for the skin.
Les compositions de l'invention peuvent contenir un extrait de barbitamao à une concentration pondérale efficace sur le plan cosmétique et/ou dermatologique, généralement comprise entre 0,01 et 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence entre 0,05 et 1 % en poids. L'extrait de barbitamao suivant la présente invention peut être utilisé sous forme liquide ou d'extrait sec, soit tel quel, soit après mise sous forme de microcapsule ou de liposomes .The compositions of the invention may contain a barbitamao extract at a concentration effective by weight on the cosmetic and / or dermatological level, generally between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.05 and 1% by weight. The barbitamao extract according to the present invention can be used in liquid or dry extract form, either as it is, or after being placed in the form of a microcapsule or liposomes.
Outre l'extrait de barbitamao indiqué ci-dessus, la composition conforme à la présente invention peut contenir avantageusement une lécithine hydrogénée.In addition to the barbitamao extract indicated above, the composition in accordance with the present invention may advantageously contain a hydrogenated lecithin.
La lécithine hydrogénée utilisée dans l'invention est de préférence une lécithine de soja hydrogénée ou une lécithine de tournesol hydrogénée. Les lécithines disponibles dans le commerce contiennent généralement de la lécithine pure (phosphatidyl choline) en mélange avec d'autres phosphoglycérides tels que céphaline (en particulier la phosphatidyl éthanol- aminé) et le phosphatidyl inositol. Conformément à l'invention on peut utiliser la lécithine pure hydrogénée ou une lécithine du commerce hydrogénée. Un exemple de lécithine hydrogénée utilisable dans l'invention est celle vendue dans le commerce sous la marque Emulmetik 320® par la société Lucas Mayer (lécithine de soja hydrogénée) .The hydrogenated lecithin used in the invention is preferably a hydrogenated soy lecithin or a lecithin hydrogenated sunflower. The commercially available lecithins generally contain pure lecithin (phosphatidyl choline) in admixture with other phosphoglycerides such as cephalin (in particular phosphatidyl ethanolamine) and phosphatidyl inositol. In accordance with the invention, it is possible to use pure hydrogenated lecithin or a commercial hydrogenated lecithin. An example of hydrogenated lecithin which can be used in the invention is that sold commercially under the brand Emulmetik 320® by the company Lucas Mayer (hydrogenated soy lecithin).
Plus précisément, la teneur en lécithine hydrogénée est généralement comprise entre 0,1 et 8 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence entre 0,2 et 5 % en poids. La lécithine hydrogénée peut avantageusement être associée à un alcool à chaîne alkylée comportant 10 à 20 atomes de carbone, et notamment un alcool en Cι2-Cι6.More specifically, the content of hydrogenated lecithin is generally between 0.1 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight. The hydrogenated lecithin can advantageously be combined with an alcohol with an alkyl chain comprising 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and in particular a Cι 2 -Cι 6 alcohol.
La composition de l'invention peut aussi contenir avantageusement un silanol ou un dérivé de silanol.The composition of the invention can also advantageously contain a silanol or a silanol derivative.
Parmi les dérivés de silanols les plus couramment utilisés, et plus particulièrement les dérivés de méthyl silanol, on peut mentionner entre autres le mannuronate de méthylsilanol (Algisium C®) , le mannuronate de sodium de méthylsilanol (Algisium®) , le hyaluronate de diméthylsilanolAmong the derivatives of silanol most commonly used, and more particularly methyl silanol derivatives, there may be mentioned inter alia the methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C ®), sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium ®), dimethylsilanol hyaluronate
(D.S.H.C®), le hyaluronate de ι sodium de diméthylsilanol (D.S.H®), l'ascorbyl méthylsilanol, le lactate de sodium de méthylsilanol (Lasilium®) .(DSHC ®), sodium hyaluronate ι dimethylsilanol (DSH ®), ascorbyl methylsilanol, sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ®).
La composition suivant la présente invention peut en outre contenir divers adjuvants et excipients couramment utilisés dans les techniques des compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques. Elle peut par exemple contenir des conservateurs, des épaississants, des gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, des agents émulsionnants, des agents humectants, des antioxydants, des agents hydratants, des tensioactifs, des parfums, et divers additifs destinés à améliorer les propriétés physiques de la composition. Les gélifiants ou épaississants peuvent par exemple être choisis parmi les copolymères d'acrylate, par exemple le méthacrylate de polyméthyle, ou des gommes naturelles, par exemple une gomme de xanthane. Un composant tel que la perfluorodecaline peut être avantageusement incorporé pour améliorer l'onctuosité d'une telle composition.The composition according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants and excipients commonly used in the techniques of cosmetic and dermatological compositions. It can for example contain preservatives, thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, emulsifying agents, humectants, antioxidants, hydrating agents, surfactants, perfumes, and various additives intended to improve the physical properties of the composition. . The gelling agents or thickeners can, for example, be chosen from acrylate copolymers, for example polymethyl methacrylate, or natural gums, for example xanthan gum. A component such as perfluorodecaline can be advantageously incorporated to improve the smoothness of such a composition.
L'agent hydratant ou humectant peut être choisi parmi un polyol, le sorbitol, le maltitol, le pentaérythritol, la glycérine, le glycol, le propylène glycol, le polyéthylène glycol, le phénoxyéthanol, les polyacrylates et polymétha- crylates de glycéryle, le glycérol ou des dérivés du glycérol. D'une manière générale, tout agent hydratant convenant aux compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques peut être utilisé dans la présente invention. L'agent humectant est avanta- geusement introduit dans la phase aqueuse lors de la préparation de l'émulsion. La teneur en agent humectant est généralement comprise entre 0,1 et 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion.The moisturizing or humectant agent can be chosen from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, glycerin, glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates of glyceryl, glycerol or glycerol derivatives. In general, any hydrating agent suitable for cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the present invention. The humectant is advantageously introduced into the aqueous phase during the preparation of the emulsion. The content of humectant is generally between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
Les conservateurs usuels de la technique des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques peuvent être utilisés dans l'invention, et par exemple des alcools tels que l'alcool éthylique, l'alcool benzylique et 1 ' isopropanol, l'acide benzoïque ou un p-hydroxy-benzoate d'alkyle, et en particulier le p-hydroxy-benzoate de méthyle (Méthylparaben) et le p- hydroxy-benzoate de propyle (Propylparaben) , ou encore la chlorphénésine et 1 ' imidazolidinyl urée, ces composés pouvant être utilisés isolément ou en combinaison.The usual preservatives of the technique of cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the invention, and for example alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and isopropanol, benzoic acid or a p-hydroxy- alkyl benzoate, and in particular methyl p-hydroxy benzoate (Methylparaben) and propyl p-hydroxy benzoate (Propylparaben), or also chlorphenesin and imidazolidinyl urea, these compounds being able to be used in isolation or in combination.
Des agents de protection contre les rayons ultraviolets peuvent également être incorporés dans les compositions, et par exemple des filtres solaires tels que la benzophenone ou un dérivé de benzophenone, un dérivé du dibenzoylméthane tel que le 4-isopropyl dibenzoylméthane, ou un cinnamate et plus particulièrement le méthoxycinnamate d' éthylhexyle. On peut aussi utiliser des pigments formant écran antiultraviolet, qui peuvent par exemple être choisis parmi le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc ou encore d'aluminium.Ultraviolet protection agents can also be incorporated into the compositions, and for example sunscreens such as benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, or a cinnamate and more particularly ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. One can also use pigments forming an anti-ultraviolet screen, which can for example be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or aluminum.
Les compositions peuvent se présenter sous forme de crèmes, émulsions huile-dans-eau ou émulsions eau-dans-huile, laits, gels, lotions, masques, sticks ou pommades, et peuvent être utilisées en particulier pour la protection de la peau.The compositions can be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions or water-in-oil emulsions, milks, gels, lotions, masks, sticks or ointments, and can be used in particular for protecting the skin.
Un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention se présente sous forme de crème, de gel ou de lait. La composition de l'invention se révèle particulièrement utile et efficace pour assurer les soins quotidiens de la peau, en particulier chez les sujets à peau fragile ou exposés à des risques d'agression de l'environnement ou d'affections diverses . Comme indiqué plus haut, l'extrait de barbitamao utilisé dans la présente invention peut être obtenu par macération d' écorces de l'arbre. A cet effet, des écorces fraîchement prélevées sont broyées et mises à macérer dans de l'eau à une température de 25 à 30 °C pendant une période de 4 à 6 jours puis le macérât est atomisé et adsorbé sur un support de type maltodextrine. Après séchage, l'extrait ainsi obtenu se présente sous forme de poudre qui peut être utilisé telle quelle dans les compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques.A preferred embodiment of the invention is in the form of a cream, gel or milk. The composition of the invention proves to be particularly useful and effective for ensuring the daily care of the skin, in particular in subjects with fragile skin or exposed to risks of environmental aggression or various affections. As indicated above, the barbitamao extract used in the present invention can be obtained by maceration of tree bark. For this purpose, freshly removed bark is ground and macerated in water at a temperature of 25 to 30 ° C for a period of 4 to 6 days, then the macerate is atomized and adsorbed on a support of maltodextrin type. After drying, the extract thus obtained is in powder form which can be used as it is in cosmetic and dermatological compositions.
L'extrait est incorporé dans les compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques par tous moyens usuels.The extract is incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological compositions by any usual means.
Les caractéristiques et avantages de la présente invention apparaîtront plus en détail dans la description qui suit, relative à des formes préférentielles de réalisation. Dans ces exemples, les parties et pourcentages sont exprimés en poids, sauf indication contraire.The characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear in more detail in the description which follows, relating to preferred embodiments. In these examples, the parts and percentages are expressed by weight, unless otherwise indicated.
Exemple 1Example 1
On prépare une crème cosmétique raffermissante, en utilisant les techniques usuelles de l'industrie des produits cosmétiques et dermatologiques. Le procédé de préparation consiste par exemple à préparer la phase grasse, à la chauffer à une température de l'ordre deA firming cosmetic cream is prepared, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry. The preparation process consists, for example, in preparing the fatty phase, in heating it to a temperature of the order of
75 à 80°C, puis à y ajouter la phase aqueuse' contenant l'extrait de barbitamao et à refroidir progressivement sous agitation.75 to 80 ° C, then add the aqueous phase ' containing the barbitamao extract and gradually cool with stirring.
La composition pondérale de la crème est indiquée ci- après .The weight composition of the cream is indicated below.
Extrait sec de barbitamao o, 50O barbitamao dry extract, 50
EDTA tétrasodique o, .10 glycérine 2, • 00 butylène glycol 4, 00 gomme xanthane o, 20 cétéaryl glucoside 4, • 00 tristéarine o, .75 acétyl glycol stéarate o, 75 alcool cétylique 1, 00Tetrasodium EDTA o, .10 glycerin 2, • 00 butylene glycol 4, 00 xanthan gum o, 20 cetaryl glucoside 4, • 00 tristearin o, .75 acetyl glycol stearate o, 75 cetyl alcohol 1, 00
Isoparaffine Cι2-ι4 3, • 00 phényl diméthicone 1, .00 cyclopentasiloxane 4, 00 tocophérol o, 70 huile de loofa o, 80 copolymère acrylate de sodium / taurate de diméthyl acryloyle o, 50 isohexadécane o, 25 Polysorbate 80 o, 15 diméthiconol o, • 20 extrait de néflier du Japon 1/ 00 extrait de Kigélia africana 2, 00 lactate de méthylsilanol 2, 00 conservateur 2, 00 parfum o, 10 eau q.s.p. 100, 00Isoparaffin Cι 2 -ι 4 3, • 00 phenyl dimethicone 1, .00 cyclopentasiloxane 4, 00 tocopherol o, 70 loofa oil o, 80 copolymer sodium acrylate / dimethyl acryloyl taurate o, 50 isohexadecane o, 25 Polysorbate 80 o, 15 dimethiconol o, • 20 Japanese medlar extract 1/00 Kigélia africana extract 2, 00 methylsilanol lactate 2, 00 preservative 2, 00 perfume o, 10 water qs 100, 00
Cette crème peut être appliquée sur la peau des bras, du visage et du cou une à deux fois par jour. Exemple 2This cream can be applied to the skin of the arms, face and neck once or twice a day. Example 2
On prépare un gel raffermissant, en utilisant les techniques usuelles de l'industrie des produits cosmétiques et dermatologiques . La composition pondérale du gel est indiquée ci-après.A firming gel is prepared, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry. The weight composition of the gel is indicated below.
Extrait sec de barbitamao 0,10 butylène glycol 3,00 polyéthylène glycol 1,00Barbitamao dry extract 0.10 butylene glycol 3.00 polyethylene glycol 1.00
Carbomer 1,00 EDTA tétrasodique 0,10 phénoxyéthanol 0,20 alcool éthylique 96% vol. 30,00 menthol 0,20 trométhamine 1,30 sulfate de dextran 0,50 mannuronate de méthylsilanol 1,00 polyacrylate de glycéryle 0,50 extrait de Ruscus aculeatus 5,00 parfum 0,10 conservateurs 0,10Carbomer 1.00 EDTA tetrasodium 0.10 phenoxyethanol 0.20 ethyl alcohol 96% vol. 30.00 menthol 0.20 tromethamine 1.30 dextran sulfate 0.50 methylsilanol mannuronate 1.00 glyceryl polyacrylate 0.50 Ruscus aculeatus extract 5.00 fragrance 0.10 preservatives 0.10
Eau q.s.p. 100,00Water q.s.p. 100.00
Exemple 3Example 3
On prépare un lait raffermissant, en utilisant les techniques usuelles de l'industrie des produits cosmétiques et dermatologiques .A firming milk is prepared, using the usual techniques of the cosmetic and dermatological industry.
La composition pondérale du lait est indiquée ci-après.The weight composition of the milk is indicated below.
Extrait sec de barbitamao 0,20 glycérine 0,10Dry extract of barbitamao 0.20 glycerin 0.10
EDTA tétrasodique 0,20 butylène glycol 4,00 gomme xanthane 0,15 lécithine hydrogénée 1,00 alcool Cι2-16 2,50 acide palmitique 0,95 carbomer 0,10 trométhamine 0,10 huile de coprah hydrogénée 6,00 octyl dodécanol 8,00 diheptanoate de néopentyl glycol 1,50 tocophérol 0,70 copolymère acrylate de sodium / taurate de diméthyl acryloyle 0,50 isohexadécane 0,25 Polysorbate 80 0,15 extrait d'hibiscus esculentus 1,00 glycogène biotechnologique 0,02 parfums 0,10 conservateurs 0,35 Eau q.s.p. 100,00Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20 butylene glycol 4.00 xanthan gum 0.15 hydrogenated lecithin 1.00 alcohol Cι 2 - 16 2.50 palmitic acid 0.95 carbomer 0.10 tromethamine 0.10 hydrogenated coconut oil 6.00 octyl dodecanol 8.00 neopentyl glycol diheptanoate 1.50 tocopherol 0.70 sodium acrylate / dimethyl acryloyl taurate 0.50 isohexadecane 0.25 Polysorbate 80 0 , 15 hibiscus esculentus extract 1.00 biotechnological glycogen 0.02 perfumes 0.10 preservatives 0.35 Water qs 100.00
Exemple 4Example 4
Evaluation de l'effet raffermissantEvaluation of the firming effect
L'effet raffermissant d'un lait ayant la composition indiquée à l'Exemple 3, mais en faisant varier la concen- tration en extrait de barbitamao, a été évalué sur un échantillon homogène de volontaires adultes d'âge compris entre 40 et 65 ans, suivant une procédure standardisée.The firming effect of a milk having the composition indicated in Example 3, but by varying the concentration of barbitamao extract, was evaluated on a homogeneous sample of adult volunteers between 40 and 65 years of age , following a standardized procedure.
La technique utilisée pour évaluer les variations d'extensibilité et d'élasticité des couches superficielles cutanées, repose sur la mesure de la torsion de la peau par une sonde.The technique used to evaluate the variations in extensibility and elasticity of the cutaneous surface layers, is based on the measurement of the torsion of the skin by a probe.
Suivant cette technique, une contrainte de torsion est appliquée à une zone annulaire de la peau comprise entre un disque mobile de 20 mm et un anneau concentrique fixe, au moyen d'un adhésif à double face. L'angle de rotation du disque est mesuré par un capteur angulaire.According to this technique, a torsional stress is applied to an annular area of the skin between a 20 mm movable disc and a fixed concentric ring, using a double-sided adhesive. The angle of rotation of the disc is measured by an angular sensor.
Lors de l'application du couple moteur, le disque central pivote instantanément d'un angle Ue, puis l'angle de rotation continue de croître plus lentement d'un angle Uv. Après arrêt du couple de torsion, la peau revient à son état initial en deux temps (déformation rapide Ur, puis lente jusqu'à l'origine) . On effectue ainsi cinq cycles de déformation, chaque durée d'application du couple de torsion étant de 2 secondes. On peut ainsi évaluer les paramètres rhéologiques (extensibilité, déformation et rétraction) et biomécaniques (tension, fermeté et tonicité) .When applying the engine torque, the central disc instantly pivots by an angle Ue, then the angle of rotation continues to grow more slowly by an angle Uv. After stopping the torque, the skin returns to its initial state in two stages (rapid deformation Ur, then slow to the origin). Five deformation cycles are thus carried out, each duration of application of the torque being 2 seconds. We can thus evaluate the rheological (extensibility, deformation and retraction) and biomechanical (tension, firmness and tone) parameters.
Les mesures sont effectuées tout d'abord sur l'avant bras des volontaires n'ayant pas reçu de produit depuis la veille. Puis le produit à tester (lait à base de barbitamao) est appliqué sur la zone à tester à raison de 2 μl/cm2. Une nouvelle série de mesure est effectuée 4 heures après application du produit. On observe alors que, quatre heures après une application standardisée unique, par comparaison avec une zone non traitée, le lait à base de barbitamao procure un net effet de raffermissement de la peau (amélioration de la tension, de la tonicité et de la fermeté cutanée) chez quatre volontaires sur cinq.The measurements are taken first of all on the forearms of volunteers who have not received any product since the previous day. Then the product to be tested (barbitamao-based milk) is applied to the area to be tested at the rate of 2 μl / cm 2 . A new series of measurements is carried out 4 hours after application of the product. It is then observed that, four hours after a single standardized application, in comparison with an untreated area, the barbitamao-based milk provides a marked firming effect on the skin (improvement in tension, tone and firmness of the skin ) in four out of five volunteers.
Les mesures confirment l'effet raffermissant à des concentrations en extrait sec variant de 0,1 à 0,3%, dans le cas d'une formulation sous forme de lait.The measurements confirm the firming effect at dry extract concentrations varying from 0.1 to 0.3%, in the case of a formulation in the form of milk.
Ces mesures mettent en évidence la bonne efficacité de la composition de l'invention pour le raffermissement de la peau et plus généralement pour le traitement des signes du vieillissement cutané. These measurements demonstrate the good efficacy of the composition of the invention for firming the skin and more generally for treating the signs of skin aging.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique utilisable par voie topique pour le raffermissement de la peau, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un extrait de barbitamao.1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition usable topically for firming the skin, characterized in that it contains a barbitamao extract.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait est obtenu à partir d' écorces de barbitamao .2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract is obtained from barbitama bark.
3. Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait est obtenu par macération dans l'eau à température ambiante. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract is obtained by maceration in water at room temperature.
4. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de barbitamao est sous forme d'extrait sec.4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the barbitamao extract is in the form of a dry extract.
5. Composition selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un extrait de barbitamao en une concentration pondérale comprise entre 0,01 et 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it comprises an extract of barbitamao in a weight concentration of between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que la concentration de l'extrait de barbitamao est comprise entre 0,05 et 1 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the concentration of barbitamao extract is between 0.05 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est sous forme de crème, de gel ou de lait.7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream, gel or milk.
8. Utilisation d'un extrait de barbitamao pour la préparation d'une composition dermatologique pour le traitement et la prévention des signes du vieillissement cutané.8. Use of a barbitamao extract for the preparation of a dermatological composition for the treatment and prevention of the signs of skin aging.
9. Procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer sur les zones de la peau à traiter une quantité efficace d'une composition à base d'extrait de barbitamao selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7. 9. A method of cosmetic treatment of the skin characterized in that it consists in applying to the areas of the skin to be treated an effective amount of a composition based on barbitamao extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7 .
EP03718829A 2002-02-04 2003-02-04 Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on barbitamao extract Withdrawn EP1471882A1 (en)

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PCT/FR2003/000335 WO2003066013A1 (en) 2002-02-04 2003-02-04 Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on barbitamao extract

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