EP2651379A2 - Aufhellmittel mit acylpyridiniumverbindungen und lösungsvermittlern - Google Patents
Aufhellmittel mit acylpyridiniumverbindungen und lösungsvermittlernInfo
- Publication number
- EP2651379A2 EP2651379A2 EP11794424.9A EP11794424A EP2651379A2 EP 2651379 A2 EP2651379 A2 EP 2651379A2 EP 11794424 A EP11794424 A EP 11794424A EP 2651379 A2 EP2651379 A2 EP 2651379A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- acetyl
- agent
- group
- alkanediols
- methylpyridinium
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
Links
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
Definitions
- the present invention relates to agents for brightening keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing a special bleach activator.
- the oxidizing agents contained in Blondierstoffn are able to lighten the hair fiber by the oxidative destruction of the hair dye melanin.
- the use of hydrogen peroxide - preferably using ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidizing agent alone, for achieving a stronger blonding effect is usually a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and Peroxodisulfatsalzen and / or Peroxomonosulfatsalzen used.
- the whitening is also accompanied by damage to the hair, since not only the natural coloring components of the hair, but also the other structural components of the hair are oxidatively damaged.
- a first subject of the invention is therefore a means for lightening keratinic fibers, characterized in that it is in a cosmetic carrier
- R1 represents a C-Ce alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group hydroxy, a C r C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C 2 - C 6 alkyl group, an arylCrCValkyl distr, a heteroaryl-CVCe-alkyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group,
- R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a C 6 -C 6 alkyl group
- Halogen atom or a CVCe-acyl group with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R 2, R 3 and R 4 is a C 1 -C 4 -cyclo group,
- (Iii) contains at least hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent.
- compositions according to the invention are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand.
- the agents according to the invention containing the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
- the cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
- hair bleaching such carriers are for example creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
- an aqueous carrier contains at least 40% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water.
- aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
- the agents according to the invention contain at least one acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I).
- substituents of the compounds of the formula (I) are mentioned below by way of non-limiting example.
- C 6 -C 6 -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH ( CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , - CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 .
- Examples of a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group are a prop-2-enyl group (allyl group), a 2-methyl-prop-2-enyl group, a but-3-enyl group, a but-2-enyl group, a pentoxy group. 4-enyl group or a pent-3-enyl group, wherein the prop-2-enyl group is preferred.
- Examples of a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group are -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH (OH) CH 3 and -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, where the Group -CH 2 CH 2 OH is preferred.
- Examples of C 6 -C 12 alkoxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OCH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (CH 3 ) 2 .
- Examples of a carboxy-C C 6 alkyl group are the carboxymethyl group, the 2-carboxyethyl group or the 3-carboxypropyl group.
- Examples of aryl-C Ce-alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.
- Examples of a heteroaryl-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group are the pyridin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-3-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-4-ylmethyl group, the pyrimidin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyrrol-1-ylmethyl group, the pyrrole-1 ylethyl group, the pyrazol-1-ylmethyl group or the pyrazol-1-yl-ethyl group.
- Examples of an aryl group are the phenyl group, the 1-naphthyl group or the 2-naphthyl group.
- Examples of a heteroaryl group are the pyridin-2-yl group, the pyridin-3-yl group, the pyridin-4-yl group, the pyrimidin-2-yl group, the pyrrol-1-yl group, the pyrrol-2-yl group, the pyrazole group.
- Examples of a C 1 -C 6 acyl group are acetyl (1-oxo-ethyl), 1-oxo-propyl, 1-oxo-butyl, 1-oxo-pentyl, 1-oxo-2,2-dimethylpropyl and 1-oxo hexyl.
- radical R 1 has the general structure (I) for a C 1 -C 5 -alkyl group, for a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group or for a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group stands. It is preferred according to the invention when the radical R 1 is a C 1 -C 5 -alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl and particularly preferably methyl.
- acylpyridinium derivatives according to formula (I) according to the invention have particularly advantageous properties when they carry the acyl group either in the 2- or 4-position on the pyridine ring.
- Preferred compounds of the formula (I) are furthermore those compounds in which either the radical R 2 or the radical R 4 is a C -C acyl group, preferably an acetyl group. It is further preferred if one of the radicals R 2 or R 4 is an acetyl group, while the other of these radicals and the radical R 3 are each hydrogen.
- a further embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains as acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I) at least one 2-acetylpyridinium derivative and / or 4-acetylpyridinium derivative.
- Suitable acetylpyridinium derivatives are in particular the physiologically tolerable salts which contain as cation an acetylpyridinium derivative selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyridinium, 2-acetyl 1-methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium and 2-acetyl-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyridinium.
- anion X " according to formula (I) is selected from halide, in particular chloride, bromide and iodide, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, CC ⁇ alkylsulfonate, trifluoromethanesulfonate, acetate, trifluoroacetate, perchlorate,% sulfate, hydrogensulfate
- the physiologically acceptable anion X " is a halide ion (in particular chloride or bromide), hydrogen sulfate, p-toluenesulfonate, benzenesulfonate or acetate.
- those agents are preferred according to the invention, which are characterized in that the Acylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) is selected from at least one compound of the group which is formed from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1 -methylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl -1-allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyri
- agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as the acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I), a compound selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and / or 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, in particular 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate.
- acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I) a compound selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and / or 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, in particular 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate.
- An embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that in the composition according to the invention the acylpyridinium derivatives of the formula (I) in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, and in particular 0 , 5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition are included.
- compositions according to the invention furthermore contain at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, of one or more organic solvents selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols, monoethers of Alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkane polyols.
- organic solvents selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols, monoethers of Alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkane polyols.
- Organic solvents are liquid organic compounds at room temperature and normal pressure. These are preferably water-miscible organic solvents.
- alkanediols are linear or branched, optionally unsaturated C 2 -C 10 - alkyl chains which may optionally be interrupted by further hetero atoms, especially oxygen, to understand that carry at two different carbon atoms each having a hydroxyl group.
- Alkanediols which are suitable according to the invention can in particular be selected from the group formed from ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol), 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol), 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3. Butanediol, 2-methylpropane-1, 2-diol, 1, 4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, but-2-en-1, 4-diol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol (2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethanol ).
- An alkane polyol which is suitable according to the invention is in particular glycerol.
- Mono ethers of alkanediols are according to the invention compounds having an alkanediol structure, wherein a hydroxy group is replaced by an ether function.
- ether substituent in particular CC ⁇ alkyl groups a phenyl group or a benzyl group are suitable.
- Mono ethers of alkanediols which are suitable according to the invention can be selected in particular from the group formed from 4-methoxybutanol, 3-methoxybutanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, phenoxyethanol and benzyloxyethanol (BnOC 2 H 4 OH).
- Carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkanepolyols which are suitable according to the invention are in particular selected from the group formed from ethylene carbonate (1,3-dioxolan-2-one), propylene carbonate (4-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one), 1 , 2-butylene carbonate (4-ethyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one), isobutylene carbonate (4,4-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one), 2,3-butylene carbonate (4,5-dimethyl -1, 3-dioxolan-2-one) and glycerol carbonate (4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one).
- a preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is an agent characterized in that the agent comprises at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, of one or more organic solvents selected from the group formed is from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, 2-phenoxyethanol, 3-methoxybutanol, propylene carbonate and glycerin carbonate.
- a further preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore an agent which is characterized in that the agent comprises at least a proportion of 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, of one or more organic solvents selected from the group consisting of which is formed from diethylene glycol, propylene carbonate and glycerin carbonate.
- the organic solvent (s) according to the invention may comprise at least 0.6% by weight, more preferably at least 0.8% by weight, preferably at least 1.0% by weight, in particular at least 1.2 Wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent present.
- the proportion of organic solvents should not exceed a certain level in order to maintain the stability of the agent with respect to predominantly water-soluble ingredients.
- the organic solvent (s) according to the invention may therefore be preferred for the organic solvent (s) according to the invention to be at most 25% by weight, better still at most 20% by weight, preferably at most 15% by weight and in particular at most 10% by weight, furthermore preferred at most 8% by weight and particularly preferably at least 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent present.
- a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore an agent, which is characterized in that the agent has a proportion of 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.8 to 10 wt .-%, in particular of 1, 0 to 8 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 1, 5 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready agent, of the organic solvent (s) selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols , Monoethers of alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkanepolyols.
- the organic solvent selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols , Monoethers of alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkanepolyols.
- the agent according to the invention contains at least hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent.
- hydrogen peroxide itself is used as the aqueous solution.
- Hydrogen peroxide can also be used in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidinone n H 2 0 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide.
- Hydrogen peroxide is preferably 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 20 wt .-% and particularly preferably 4.5 to 9 wt .-%, each calculated to 100% hydrogen peroxide and based on the ready-to-use agent on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
- the means for lightening keratinic fibers in a cosmetic carrier as the first component at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 4-acetyl 1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4- Acetyl-1-allylpyridinium benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl 1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acety
- second component at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, of one or more organic solvents selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2- Butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, 2-phenoxyethanol, 3-methoxybutanol, propylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate, and contains as the third component hydrogen peroxide.
- organic solvents selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2- Butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n
- the composition allows particularly advantageous brightening performance if, in addition to the said organic solvents, it additionally contains at least one further organic solvent in the form of a low molecular weight alcohol.
- Such low molecular weight alcohols are, for example, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol and benzyl alcohol.
- a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore an agent which is characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one organic solvent selected from ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol and benzyl alcohol. Preference is given to an agent which contains ethanol and / or isopropanol as an additional organic solvent.
- the additional low molecular weight alcohol or alcohols are preferably present in the composition according to the invention at a level of from 0.5% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 3 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent included.
- the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
- ingredients include hydrogen peroxide, but also the acylpyridinium derivatives of formula (I) are preferably stored at neutral or slightly acidic pH.
- agent according to the invention has a weakly acidic pH.
- a further embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent has, as agent M1, a pH of from pH 2 to pH 6, preferably from pH 2.5 to pH 4.5.
- alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from ammonia, inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular alkanolamines, amines and basic amino acids.
- Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are indulgent acids, such as lactic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids and their acid-reacting salts in water and organic phosphonic or sulfonic acids.
- the ready-to-use bleaching agents preferably have an alkaline pH. Therefore, it is preferred to adjust an agent of the first subject of the invention to an alkaline pH between 6 and 12, especially between 9 and 11, immediately prior to application to the keratinic fibers.
- a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore an agent which is characterized in that it additionally contains at least one alkalizing agent.
- the alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, inorganic alkalizing agents, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular alkanolamines, amines and basic amino acids.
- Inorganic alkalizing agents usable in the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
- alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
- Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropane -2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 -Amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
- Alkanolamines which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
- the basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, most preferably arginine.
- the agent contains ammonia.
- An embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains as alkalizing agent ammonia and / or monoethanolamine.
- the agents contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
- Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid.
- Complex images are substances that can complex metal ions.
- Preferred complexing agents are so-called chelate complexing agents, ie substances which form cyclic compounds with metal ions, a single ligand occupying more than one coordination site on a central atom, ie at least is "bidentate”.
- Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polyoxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acids or their alkali metal salts.
- Complex-forming polymers ie polymers which carry functional groups either in the main chain themselves or in the side thereof, which can act as ligands and as a rule react with suitable metal atoms to form chelate complexes, can be used according to the invention.
- the polymer-bound ligands of the resulting metal complexes can originate from only one macromolecule or belong to different polymer chains.
- Preferred complexing agents according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA, and phosphonates, preferably hydroxyalkane or aminoalkane phosphonates and in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonate (HEDP) or its di- or tetrasodium salt and / or ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) or its Hexane atriumsalz and / or Diethylentriaminpentamethylenphosphonat (DTPMP) or its hepta- or Octosatriumsalz.
- HEDP 1-diphosphonate
- EDTMP ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate
- DTPMP Diethylentriaminpentamethylenphosphonat
- the agent can be applied to the hair together with a catalyst, which additionally activates the oxidation of the dye precursors.
- a catalyst which additionally activates the oxidation of the dye precursors.
- Such catalysts are z.
- Suitable enzymes for this purpose are, for.
- peroxidases which can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide.
- Use of certain metal ions or complexes may also be preferred. Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
- the acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I) can be formulated both together with hydrogen peroxide and also together with the alkalizing agent according to the invention.
- the ready-to-use agent according to the invention is prepared before use by mixing an alkalization preparation M2 and an oxidation preparation M1, it being possible for the acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I) and the organic solvent to be formulated in the two agents M1 and / or M2. It is therefore advantageous to offer the user both preparations in a set. Therefore, a preferred dosage form of the ready-to-use agent is a separate packaging unit wherein the means M1 and M2 are each packaged separately.
- the agent M1 containing hydrogen peroxide has a weakly acidic pH.
- a further embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent M1 has a pH of from pH 2 to pH 6, preferably from pH 2.5 to pH 4.5.
- a further subject of the present invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising at least two separate containers, wherein
- a second container C2 contains at least one agent M2 containing at least one alkalizing agent in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
- agents M1 and / or M2 contains one or more organic solvents selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols, monoalkylethers of alkanediols, monalkylethers of alkanepolyols, carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkanepolyols;
- organic solvent (s) selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols, monoethers of alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkanepolyols, at least 0.5% by weight, based on the Total weight of funds M1 and M2, is.
- At least the agent M1 contains an acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I). In another preferred embodiment, at least the agent M1 contains at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the M1 and M2 ready-to-use agent, of one or more organic solvents selected from the group consisting of alkanediols , Alkane polyols, monoethers of alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and carbonates of alkanepolyols.
- container is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or similar wrappings.
- the wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.
- kit-of-parts contains at least one further hair treatment agent in a separate container, in particular a conditioner preparation or a bleaching powder with peroxodisulfates.
- the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use.
- Ready-to-use agents according to the invention are preferably aqueous, flowable preparations.
- the compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
- the ready-to-use agents as a mixture of agents M1 and M2 may contain surface-active substances selected from anionic as well as nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants.
- Anionic surfactants are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms.
- Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
- zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
- Amphoteric surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts
- Typical amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
- Exemplary amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12
- Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z.
- Such compounds are, for example, adducts of 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, of fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group; with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and at Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group; Polyglycerol est
- the nonionic emulsifiers in the context of the invention furthermore include the polymerization products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide onto saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols; Fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; Alkyl esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids or alkylphenols and their alkoxylates; in particular ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols; mixed ethylene and propylene glycol ethers with fatty alcohols; Fatty acid esters of sorbitan and polyethylene glycol; Esters of non-hydroxylated C 6 -C 30 -alkyl monocarboxylic acids with polyethylene glycol; and addition products of alkylphenols to ethylene and / or propylene oxide.
- Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines are preferred according to the invention in ready-to-use agents.
- Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
- Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
- Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines, such as stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.
- dialkylaminoamines such as stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.
- preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
- Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart and Armocare.
- the products Armocare VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart F-75, Dehyquart C-4046, Dehyquart L80 and Dehyquart AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
- the cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred.
- the means according to the invention can contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
- Other active substances, auxiliaries and additives which can be used according to the invention are, for example, anionic polymers (such as carbomers, copolymers and crosspolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid and optionally further nonionic monomers); cationic polymers (such as Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-75, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-22); nonionic polymers (such as vinyl pyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidinone and vinyl pyrrolidinone vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes); zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (such as acryla)
- the agents according to the invention not only as pure brightening agents, i. be provided as so-called Blondierffen, but also as a mattifying brightening effect simultaneously with the whitening and a matting of the keratin fibers, so that the bleaching frequently occurring but unwanted color shifts in reddish or orange areas by a slight coloration, especially in cool shades, is compensated.
- dyeing components are so-called substantive dyes ("direct drawers"), which are dye molecules which are applied directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the ink.
- the ready-to-use agents according to the invention may contain at least one substantive dye.
- These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color.
- Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
- the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
- the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 1, 0 wt .-%.
- Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
- Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as substantive dyes containing a heterocycle included having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
- Cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
- Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
- Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1, HC Red 1, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro 2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2
- Dye combinations preferred according to the invention are those which contain at least the combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 98; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 94; Tetrabromophenol Blue and Acid Red 87 or Tetrabromphenol Blue and Acid Red 51.
- the substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as these do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
- the consumer wishes to have a very strong bleaching, it may be preferred if in addition to hydrogen peroxide, the acylpyridinium compound of the formula (I) and the organic solvent according to the invention additionally at least one inorganic persulfate salt or peroxodisulfate salt the means for lightening the keratinic fibers is included.
- Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.
- the peroxodisulfate salts may be contained in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular in an amount of from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
- These peroxodisulfates are also preferably added to the composition only immediately prior to use in order to avoid storage instabilities.
- compositions according to the invention are preferably used for lightening and bleaching human hair.
- the entire hair can be bleached or only certain parts of hair, such as highlights, which are optionally separated from the remaining hair, for example by means of films treated.
- Another object of the invention is therefore a method for whitening human hair, characterized in that
- the exposure time is 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 30 to 45 minutes, before the agent is finally rinsed out.
- the application temperatures can range between 15 and 40 ° C.
- the remaining agent is removed by rinsing off the hair. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
- Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of an agent of the first subject of the invention for whitening ke ratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
- the lightening effect can be improved far beyond what is known in the art if, in addition to the oxidizing agent and bleach activator, at least one organic solvent is present in the lightening agent Fraction of the organic solvent (s) selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols, monoethers of alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and alkanepolyol carbonates of at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, is added.
- the organic solvent (s) selected from the group consisting of alkanediols, alkanepolyols, monoethers of alkanediols, carbonates of alkanediols and alkanepolyol carbonates of at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, is added.
- the developer dispersions E1 to E21 were mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 before use with a commercial alkaline cream formulation (bleaching cream).
- Citric acid or ammonia ad pH 2.5 ad pH 3.0 ad pH 4.0
- the developer dispersions E22 to E24 were mixed in the ratio 1: 1 with one of the bleaching creams B1 to B20 in each case.
- developer dispersion and Blondiercreme agent of the invention was prepared before use.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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DE201010063370 DE102010063370A1 (de) | 2010-12-17 | 2010-12-17 | Aufhellmittel mit Acylpyridiniumverbindungen und Lösungsvermittlern |
PCT/EP2011/070880 WO2012079951A2 (de) | 2010-12-17 | 2011-11-24 | Aufhellmittel mit acylpyridiniumverbindungen und lösungsvermittlern |
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EP2651379A2 true EP2651379A2 (de) | 2013-10-23 |
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EP11794424.9A Ceased EP2651379A2 (de) | 2010-12-17 | 2011-11-24 | Aufhellmittel mit acylpyridiniumverbindungen und lösungsvermittlern |
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EP (1) | EP2651379A2 (de) |
DE (1) | DE102010063370A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2012079951A2 (de) |
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DE102017222516A1 (de) | 2017-12-12 | 2019-06-13 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Blondiermittel und Verfahren zur schonenden oxidativen Haaraufhellung |
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DE102008022710A1 (de) | 2008-05-07 | 2009-11-12 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Aufhellmittel mit kationischen Acylpyridiniumderivaten, Co-Bleichaktivatoren und Wasserstoffperoxid |
DE102008044715A1 (de) * | 2008-08-28 | 2010-03-04 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Kationische Acylpyridinium-Derivate als Bleichaktivatoren |
DE102008057018A1 (de) * | 2008-11-12 | 2010-07-08 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Kombination von kationischen Bleichaktivatoren und Farbstoffen |
DE102009003155A1 (de) * | 2009-05-15 | 2010-11-18 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haarpflege mit Acetylpyridiniumsalzen |
-
2010
- 2010-12-17 DE DE201010063370 patent/DE102010063370A1/de not_active Withdrawn
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2011
- 2011-11-24 WO PCT/EP2011/070880 patent/WO2012079951A2/de active Application Filing
- 2011-11-24 EP EP11794424.9A patent/EP2651379A2/de not_active Ceased
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WO2012079951A2 (de) | 2012-06-21 |
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