EP2445480A2 - Extract of whole seeds of moringa sp, and use thereof in cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions - Google Patents

Extract of whole seeds of moringa sp, and use thereof in cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions

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Publication number
EP2445480A2
EP2445480A2 EP10734255A EP10734255A EP2445480A2 EP 2445480 A2 EP2445480 A2 EP 2445480A2 EP 10734255 A EP10734255 A EP 10734255A EP 10734255 A EP10734255 A EP 10734255A EP 2445480 A2 EP2445480 A2 EP 2445480A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
extract
moringa
skin
whole seeds
seeds
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP10734255A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Anne Mandeau
Hélène DUPLAN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmetique SA
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Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmetique SA
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Publication date
Application filed by Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmetique SA filed Critical Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmetique SA
Publication of EP2445480A2 publication Critical patent/EP2445480A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/92—Oral administration

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. containing oil (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols and its use in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.
  • oil including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids
  • polyphenols and its use in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.
  • Moringa is a tree native to India, but grown all over the world and naturalized in many environments where it is very popular. There are 13 species of Moringa belonging to the family Moringaceae, M. oleifera (synonym: Moringa pterygosperm ⁇ ) being the best known.
  • Moringa oleifera is a small tree 4 to 8 meters high, with a clear crown, spread out in parasol.
  • the leaves are deciduous 30 to 70 cm long, the flowers are white and very fragrant, the fruit is an elongate capsule linear, trine, leathery and pendulous, reaching 30 to 40 cm long.
  • the seeds are globose-trigonal, 1.2 cm long and 1 cm wide, with 3 membranous wings exceeding the seed and 2 cm long.
  • Wild or cultivated tree under tropical climate wet or very dry, it can survive in extreme conditions and has a fast growth. Its very deep roots allow it to do without water for several months.
  • Ayurvedic medicine to cure 300 diseases in addition to a very important nutritional value.
  • the fruits are eaten cooked, the leaves are eaten as a vegetable and have a nutritional value such that they provide a response to malnutrition in some countries.
  • a high oleic food oil is derived from seeds that also serve as a flocculant to sanitize water. The oil is obtained by pressure or extraction with hexane seeds freed of their integument. For the use of the flocculant properties, the cake recovered after pressing is used.
  • the seeds can be eaten like peas when they are still green. Ripe seeds contain about 40% oil.
  • the oil of Moringa sp. is a good quality cooking oil (close to olive oil) also used in perfumery, for the manufacture of soap and as a lamp oil (it is very stable to oxidation).
  • the oil is used in application to relieve pain during gout or rheumatism attacks (The Indian Materia Medica, pp. 811- 816). Orally, the seeds are used as antipyretic (Hukkeri et al., Indian J. Pharm Sci (2006) 68, pp 124-126).
  • Oil obtained from seeds, obtained by pressing or very apolar extraction is widely used in cosmetics for its nourishing properties due to the triglycerides it contains.
  • aqueous extract of seeds in cosmetics is described: the peptides and proteins it contains have anti-wrinkle and purifying properties: the seeds are previously peeled and delipidated (US 6,500,470 patents and US 2006 / 0275247).
  • the aqueous and delipidated protein fractions extracted from the whole or shelled seeds of Moringa sp., Have hydrating, repairing and anti-wrinkle effects on the skin (patent EP 1 064 008).
  • Said protein fraction of seeds can be characterized as "very polar".
  • the seeds are composed of sterols (campesterol, stigmasterol, ⁇ -sitosterol, ⁇ 5-avenasterol, clerosterol ...), fatty acids (C18: 1-oleic-68 to 76%, C16: 0 6 to 7.8%, C18: 0 4 to 7.6%, C20: 0 2.8 to 4% and C22: 0 to 6.7%), proteins (26 to 32%), fibers, tocopherol ( ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ : respectively, 134, 93 and 48 mg / kg of oil).
  • the seeds also contain glucosinolates including 4- ( ⁇ -L-rhamnopyranosyloxy) -benzylglucosinolate. It has also been described that the leaves and seeds of Moringa sp. contain cytokinins such as zeatin, dihydrozeatine and isopenthyladenine (US Patent 2006/0222682).
  • the applicant has demonstrated the use of a specific extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. comprising oil (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols as active ingredient in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.
  • oil including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids
  • polyphenols as active ingredient in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.
  • the present invention thus relates to an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. containing oil (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols.
  • oil including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids
  • polyphenols including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids
  • whole seeds is intended to mean seeds which have not been freed of their integument.
  • an oil content of 5% to 50% including (i) 2% to 10% of triglycerides and fatty acids and (ii) 5% to 15% of polar lipids; and a content of total polyphenols of 0.01% to 5% (expressed as g of pyrogallol per 100 g of solids).
  • said extract has an oil content of 25% to 40% (% by weight relative to the weight of the dry extract).
  • the species of Moringa is preferably Moringa oleifera or Moringa drouhardii.
  • Said extract of Moringa sp. according to the present invention is obtained from whole seeds of Moringa sp., advantageously dried, crushed and then subjected to at least one extraction with a medium polar solvent.
  • the term "medium polar solvent” is intended to mean a solvent chosen from the group consisting of a C 1 to C 4 alcohol, acetone, a water / alcohol mixture and an acetone / acetone mixture. water, used alone or in mixtures.
  • this ethanol / water mixture will be characterized by various ethanol / water proportions of 9/1 to 7/3 (v / v).
  • the medium polar solvent is an ethanol / water mixture of 9/1 or 3/1 (v / v).
  • the extraction is carried out with stirring or in a static manner, at reflux or at ambient temperature, in a ratio plant weight / solvent volume that can vary from 1/5 to 1/20, for a period of 30 minutes to 48 hours.
  • the extraction can be renewed 2 or 3 times.
  • the marc is then separated from the extract by centrifugation or filtration and the solution may be more or less concentrated until a solids content is obtained with yields ranging from 5% to 10%.
  • a support may be added during the drying step in proportions by weight relative to the dry matter extracted, which may vary from 1% to 75%.
  • the support may be maltodextrin, lactose, silica or any other cosmetologically acceptable carrier and solubilizing the extract, such as, for example, the propylene glycol / oleic alcohol mixture ethoxylated in various proportions.
  • the extract of Moringa sp. obtained is characterized by its oil content (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols.
  • Another subject of the present invention relates to such an extract of Moringa sp. for its use as an anti-aging active ingredient.
  • said extract is intended to combat all the signs of skin aging in people with mature skin.
  • the term "mature skin” is intended to mean the skin of persons who are typically over 55 years old and more preferably over 60 years old.
  • the marks of aging of the skin result in particular in a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or suppleness of the skin and the formation of wrinkles and fine lines.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a new active capable of providing both protection, hydration and nutrition to the epidermis / mature skin, and consequently to give the skin smoothing effects. , anti-loosening, restructuring.
  • the Applicant has evaluated the overall anti-aging action of extracts of Moringa sp. according to the present invention.
  • the extract according to the present invention promotes hydration, smoothing, non-loosening, and restructuring of the skin.
  • the extract according to the present invention thus makes it possible to embellish and unify the skin complexion.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of an extract as defined to enhance and restore the barrier function of the skin.
  • the expression "reinforcing the barrier function of the skin” means improving the barrier function of the skin.
  • One of the fundamental functions of the skin is to provide a barrier between the body and the external environment, opposing in a sense the penetration into the epidermis of fungi, bacteria and allergens of the environment ("outside-in” ) and in the other direction to the water loss (“inside-out”).
  • the epidermis is a pluristratified epithelium, of ectodermal origin, in perpetual renewal.
  • the basal layer There are several layers of different morphological and cellular composition, from the inside to the outside: the basal layer, a cell base whose keratinocytes have a very strong proliferation capacity which allows the self-renewal of the epidermis then the suprabasal layers (the granular, thorny layers) and finally the stratum corneum (Stratum Corneum, SC). These stages correspond to more and more advanced levels of keratinocyte differentiation.
  • the keratinocytes of the basal layer lose their capacity for proliferation as soon as they enter a process of migration towards the surface of the epidermis, during which the keratinocytes will express a program of differentiation leading to the cornification, a process of programmed cell death.
  • the cutaneous barrier function is ensured in the first place by the stratum corneum, a solid and tight assembly formed of two compartments: - a lipid-rich intercorneocyte cement: the lipids, organized in layers and covalently linked to the cells, limit the penetration of the molecules through the stratum corneum;
  • cornified cells dead and devoid of organelles (corneocytes), which correspond to the final stage of the keratinocyte differentiation.
  • the integrity of the extracellular lipid cement as well as all the cellular elements of the stratum corneum and the balance between keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation are essential for maintaining a functional epidermal barrier function.
  • the disruption of the barrier function makes the body sensitive to external aggression and dehydration.
  • the improvement of the barrier function is crucial when the barrier function of the skin is impaired and it is necessary to restore it. This is the case in a certain number of physiological states, in response to time (skin aging) or in connection with the hormonal context or stress. The speed of this restoration allowing the return to homeostasis is delayed.
  • the cutaneous barrier function is impaired in the majority of the most common skin conditions in the population that are often accompanied by an inflammatory component (dry skin ).
  • the improvement of the barrier function may also be advantageous when it is desired to consolidate the native function of the skin, in order to confer in particular on the body a better resistance to the external aggressions against which it is likely to be exposed, in particular Environmental type (Ultraviolet, humidity, outdoor temperature, pollution, burns).
  • the barrier function of the skin includes all the mechanisms of natural defense against the aggressions to which it is subject. The essential element providing this function is located in the most superficial part of the epidermis, at the level of the stratum corneum, called the stratum corneum.
  • the use of the extract according to the present invention is particularly effective for strengthening and restoring the cutaneous barrier function.
  • Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition
  • a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, as active ingredient, an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to the invention and at least one cosmetologically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient.
  • Said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the present invention comprises a quantity of dry extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. between 0.1 g and 5 g per 100 g of said composition.
  • said amount of Moringa sp. is between 0.25 g and 1 g per 100 g of cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.
  • the invention relates to an anti-aging cosmetic composition.
  • said cosmetic composition is intended to combat all the signs of skin aging in people with mature skin.
  • the anti-aging cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain, in addition, one or more other active ingredients such as active agents for sunscreen and / or skin depigmenting active agents.
  • the active ingredients for sun protection are furthermore chosen from among chemical synthesis molecules known for their anti-UVA action, for their anti-UVB action such as octocrylene and / or dioctyl butamido triazone and / or bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl. methoxyphenyl triazine
  • the active agents for depigmentation of the skin, to lighten and even out the complexion may be, in addition, niacinamide, vitamin C and its derivatives.
  • the cosmetologically acceptable excipient for obtaining an anti-aging cosmetic composition is chosen to allow topical or oral administration.
  • the topical form is chosen from the group consisting of a milk, a cream, a balm, an oil, a lotion, a gel, a foaming gel, a ointment, spray, etc.
  • the oral form is chosen from the group consisting of tablets, capsules, lozenges, powder, granules, solutions or oral suspensions.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to strengthen and restore the barrier function of the skin.
  • the cosmetologically and / or dermato logically acceptable excipient for obtaining a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition reinforcing and restoring the barrier function of the skin is chosen to allow topical administration.
  • the topical form is chosen from the group consisting of a milk, a cream, a balm, an oil, a lotion, a gel, a foaming gel, a ointment, spray, etc.
  • Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for combating all the signs of cutaneous aging in persons with mature skin, characterized in that it involves the use, topically or orally, of an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to the invention.
  • Example 3 20 g of dried and ground Moringa drouhardii whole seeds are extracted with 200 ml of 90:10 ethanol / water at reflux for 1 hour. The extracted solution is recovered by solid / liquid separation and dried on a rotary evaporator at 50 ° C. 1.29 g of extract are thus obtained in the form of a yellow-brown paste titrating at 35% of oil (triglycerides fatty acids and polar lipids) and 1.3% of total polyphenols expressed as pyrogallol.
  • oil triglycerides fatty acids and polar lipids
  • Siloxane (cytclopenta) decamethyl 1 to 8 g Glycerine 99.5% 1 to 5 g
  • the antioxidant activity of the Moringa oleifera seed extract according to the present invention was evaluated with the DPPH test. This test is based on the measurement of the antioxidant trapping capacity of the stable 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical.
  • Results The results obtained are expressed as IC50, corresponding to the concentration giving 50% reduction in the absorbance of a methanolic solution of DPPH at 0.06 mM.
  • the extract according to the invention has an antioxidant activity mainly provided by the molecules present in the integument.
  • Results 65 ⁇ g of extract according to Example 1 are necessary to obtain an activity equivalent to the activity detected for 1 ⁇ g of trolox: activity equivalent to lycopene, a molecule known for its antioxidant activity.
  • the epidermis plays a major protective role in providing a chemical and mechanical barrier for the body. It ensures the maintenance of the seal, namely the skin barrier function. Corneocytes, keratinocytes of the stratum corneum, associated with a lipid matrix, largely ensure this function. Nevertheless the deeper layers intervene in the setting up of the actors of this function. The differentiation capacity of the keratinocytes of the epidermis will guarantee the establishment of a functional selective permeability barrier (Elias PM, J Invest Dermatol 125 183-200 (2005)).
  • epidermal differentiation is mainly focused on the evolution of structural proteins that are keratins and that contribute to the architectural integrity of the epidermis. Their expression varies according to the degree of maturation of the keratinocytes.
  • Basic keratin 1 and acidic keratin 1 are early markers of keratinocyte differentiation present in the basal layer of the epidermis.
  • transglutaminases such as transglutaminase 1 (TG1) (Houben E, et al., Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 20 (3): 122-32 (2007)).
  • keratinocyte lipids are at the origin of the intercorneocyte lipid cement essential for the cutaneous barrier, the formation of which represents the final phase of epidermal terminal differentiation.
  • This extracellular lipid matrix provides the main barrier to transcutaneous movements of water and electrolytes Mizutani Y., et al. FEBS Lett. 563: 93 (2004))
  • a number of enzymes and lipid transporters see their keratinocyte expression increase with differentiation.
  • certain members of the ABC (Adenosine Triphosphate Binding Cassette transporter) family play a major role in the steps of lipid barrier implantation.
  • ABC Gl which carries glycerol specifically
  • ABC A12 essential for the transfer of lipid precursors in the lamellar bodies
  • Epidermal ceramides play a major specific role and represent an essential marker of the level of functionality of the skin barrier.
  • enzymes involved in the synthesis of cutaneous ceramides see their expression and their activity specifically increased during a rupture of the epidermal barrier function and with the level of epidermal differentiation. This is the case in particular of Sphingolipid C4-hydroxylase / delta-4 desaturase or hDES2 whose dihydroceramide hydroxylase activity contributes to the synthesis of cutaneous phytoceramides in humans (Feingold, KR J Lipid Res 48: 2531-2546 ( 2007)).
  • results are expressed as a percentage of stimulation of the gene expression (mRNA) of different markers of epidermal differentiation expressed by NHKs (compared to untreated cells). A significant positive effect is considered from 100% stimulation.
  • the results obtained are shown in the table below.
  • Table 1 Effect of vitamin D3, roziglitazone and the extract according to the invention from a model of differentiated normal human keratinocytes (NHK).
  • the extract prepared according to Example 1 at 20 ⁇ g / ml induces the gene expression of hDES2 and ABC Gl.
  • the extract prepared according to Example 1 makes it possible to restore the lipidic epidermal differentiation at the origin of the establishment of the hydrophobic barrier making it possible to limit skin dehydration, which is particularly encountered in mature skin.
  • the extract according to Example 1, at 1 and 10 ⁇ g / ml makes it possible to restore the expression of Kl (11 and 35% respectively) and involucrine (15% for 10 ⁇ g / ml).
  • Extracellular matrix is a dynamic structure with a structural and regulatory role for tissues. It gives the skin its turgidity and its mechanical properties: firmness, elasticity and tone. At the level of the epidermis it occupies the intercellular space and plays a role of maintenance for the epidermal edifice. It also exchanges between cells of the epidermis and plays a role in cell activity.
  • the ECM of the epidermis consists in particular of collagen (fibrous protein) type IV. When a cell is senescent, the components of the ECM are mainly degraded by enzymes of the zinc endopeptidase type called matrix metalloproteinases or MMPs.
  • MMP-9 is a gelatinase that has activity against denatured collagen molecules (gelatin) but can also cleave native molecules of type IV, V and VII collagen.
  • the extract prepared according to Example 1 inhibits the gene expression of MMP-9 at 1, 10 and 30 ⁇ g / ml, and this significantly at the three concentrations.
  • the extract prepared according to Example 1 makes it possible to restore the mechanical properties of the MEK: firmness, elasticity and tone of the ECM of the skin and also makes it possible to restore the protein structure of the epidermis.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp., containing oil (having triglycerides, fatty acids, and polar lipids) and polyphenols, and to the use thereof in cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions.

Description

EXTRAIT DE GRAINES ENTIERES DE MORINGA SP. ET SON UTILISATION DANS DES COMPOSITIONS COSMETIQUES ET/OU DERMATOLOGIQUES EXTRACT OF WHOLE SEEDS OF MORINGA SP. AND ITS USE IN COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITIONS
La présente invention concerne un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. contenant de l'huile (dont triglycérides, acides gras et lipides polaires) et des polyphénols et son utilisation dans des compositions cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques.The present invention relates to an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. containing oil (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols and its use in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.
Le Moringa est un arbre originaire de l'Inde, mais cultivé partout dans le monde et naturalisé dans beaucoup de milieux où il est très populaire. Il existe 13 espèces de Moringa appartenant à la famille Moringaceae, M. oleifera (synonyme : Moringa pterygospermά) étant la plus connue.Moringa is a tree native to India, but grown all over the world and naturalized in many environments where it is very popular. There are 13 species of Moringa belonging to the family Moringaceae, M. oleifera (synonym: Moringa pterygospermά) being the best known.
Le Moringa oleifera est un petit arbre de 4 à 8 mètres de haut, à cime claire, étalée en parasol. Les feuilles sont caduques de 30 à 70 cm de long, les fleurs sont blanches et très odorantes, le fruit est une capsule allongée linéaire, trigone, coriace et pendante, atteignant 30 à 40 cm de long. Les graines sont globuleuses-trigones, de 1,2 cm de long et 1 cm de large, à 3 ailes membraneuses dépassant la graine et de 2 cm de long.Moringa oleifera is a small tree 4 to 8 meters high, with a clear crown, spread out in parasol. The leaves are deciduous 30 to 70 cm long, the flowers are white and very fragrant, the fruit is an elongate capsule linear, trine, leathery and pendulous, reaching 30 to 40 cm long. The seeds are globose-trigonal, 1.2 cm long and 1 cm wide, with 3 membranous wings exceeding the seed and 2 cm long.
Arbre sauvage ou cultivé sous climat tropical, humide ou très sec, il peut survivre en conditions extrêmes et a une croissance rapide. Ses racines très profondes lui permettent de se passer d'eau pendant plusieurs mois.Wild or cultivated tree under tropical climate, wet or very dry, it can survive in extreme conditions and has a fast growth. Its very deep roots allow it to do without water for several months.
Il possède un grand nombre de noms vernaculaires dont l'arbre de Ben, Ben ailé, neverdié, Anamambo, Horseradish-tree, Drumstick-tree ou encore l'arbre qui ne meurt jamais ou « miracle tree ». En effet, il est connu en médecine ayurvédique pour guérir 300 maladies en plus d'une valeur nutritive très importante. Les fruits sont mangés cuits, les feuilles sont consommées en légume et possèdent une valeur nutritive telle qu'elles apportent une réponse à la malnutrition dans certains pays. Une huile alimentaire riche en acide oléique est tirée des graines qui servent également de floculant pour assainir l'eau. L'huile est obtenue par pression ou par extraction à l'hexane des graines débarrassées de leur tégument. Pour l'usage des propriétés floculantes, on utilise le tourteau récupéré après pressage.It has a large number of vernacular names including the tree Ben, winged Ben, neverdié, Anamambo, Horseradish-tree, Drumstick-tree or the tree that never dies or "miracle tree". Indeed, it is known in Ayurvedic medicine to cure 300 diseases in addition to a very important nutritional value. The fruits are eaten cooked, the leaves are eaten as a vegetable and have a nutritional value such that they provide a response to malnutrition in some countries. A high oleic food oil is derived from seeds that also serve as a flocculant to sanitize water. The oil is obtained by pressure or extraction with hexane seeds freed of their integument. For the use of the flocculant properties, the cake recovered after pressing is used.
Les graines peuvent être mangées comme des pois lorsqu'elles sont encore vertes. Les graines mûres contiennent environ 40% d'huile. L'huile de Moringa sp. est une huile de cuisson de bonne qualité (proche de l'huile d'olive) également utilisée en parfumerie, pour la fabrication de savon et comme huile de lampe (elle est très stable à l'oxydation).The seeds can be eaten like peas when they are still green. Ripe seeds contain about 40% oil. The oil of Moringa sp. is a good quality cooking oil (close to olive oil) also used in perfumery, for the manufacture of soap and as a lamp oil (it is very stable to oxidation).
En médecine traditionnelle, l'huile est utilisée en application pour soulager la douleur lors de crises de goutte ou de rhumatisme (The Indian Materia Medica, pp 811- 816). Par voie orale, les graines sont utilisées comme antipyrétique (Hukkeri et al., Indian J. Pharm. Sci. (2006) 68, pp 124- 126).In traditional medicine, the oil is used in application to relieve pain during gout or rheumatism attacks (The Indian Materia Medica, pp. 811- 816). Orally, the seeds are used as antipyretic (Hukkeri et al., Indian J. Pharm Sci (2006) 68, pp 124-126).
L'huile issue des graines, obtenue par pressage ou par extraction très apolaire (à l'hexane notamment) est largement utilisée en cosmétique pour ses propriétés nourrissantes dues aux triglycérides qu'elle contient.Oil obtained from seeds, obtained by pressing or very apolar extraction (hexane in particular) is widely used in cosmetics for its nourishing properties due to the triglycerides it contains.
L'utilisation d'un extrait aqueux de graines en cosmétique est décrite : les peptides et protéines qu'il contient auraient des propriétés anti-rides et purifiantes : les graines sont au préalable décortiquées et délipidées (brevets US 6 500 470 et US 2006/0275247). Les fractions protéiques aqueuses et délipidées, extraites des graines entières ou décortiquées de Moringa sp., présentent des effets hydratant, réparateur et anti-rides de la peau (brevet EP 1 064 008). Ladite fraction protéique des graines peut être caractérisée comme « très polaire ».The use of an aqueous extract of seeds in cosmetics is described: the peptides and proteins it contains have anti-wrinkle and purifying properties: the seeds are previously peeled and delipidated (US 6,500,470 patents and US 2006 / 0275247). The aqueous and delipidated protein fractions, extracted from the whole or shelled seeds of Moringa sp., Have hydrating, repairing and anti-wrinkle effects on the skin (patent EP 1 064 008). Said protein fraction of seeds can be characterized as "very polar".
D'après la bibliographie, les graines sont composées de stérols (campesterol, stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, Δ5-avenasterol, clerosterol...), d'acides gras (C18:l-oléique- 68 à 76%, C16:0 6 à 7.8%, C18:0 4 à 7.6%, C20:0 2.8 à 4% et C22:0 5 à 6.7%), de protéines (26 à 32%), de fibres, de tocophérol (α, γ, δ: respectivement 134, 93 et 48 mg/kg d'huile).According to the bibliography, the seeds are composed of sterols (campesterol, stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, Δ5-avenasterol, clerosterol ...), fatty acids (C18: 1-oleic-68 to 76%, C16: 0 6 to 7.8%, C18: 0 4 to 7.6%, C20: 0 2.8 to 4% and C22: 0 to 6.7%), proteins (26 to 32%), fibers, tocopherol (α, γ, δ : respectively, 134, 93 and 48 mg / kg of oil).
Les graines contiennent également des glucosinolates dont le 4-(α-L- rhamnopyranosyloxy)-benzylglucosinolate. Il a été aussi été décrit que les feuilles et graines de Moringa sp. contiennent des cytokinines telles que la zéatine, la dihydrozéatine et l'isopenthyladénine (brevet US 2006/0222682).The seeds also contain glucosinolates including 4- (α-L-rhamnopyranosyloxy) -benzylglucosinolate. It has also been described that the leaves and seeds of Moringa sp. contain cytokinins such as zeatin, dihydrozeatine and isopenthyladenine (US Patent 2006/0222682).
La demanderesse a mis en évidence l'utilisation d'un extrait spécifique de graines entières de Moringa sp. comprenant de l'huile (dont triglycérides, acides gras et lipides polaires) et des polyphénols en tant que principe actif dans des compositions cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques.The applicant has demonstrated the use of a specific extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. comprising oil (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols as active ingredient in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.
La présente invention a ainsi pour objet un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. contenant de l'huile (dont triglycérides, acides gras et lipides polaires) et des polyphénols. Par « graines entières », on entend au sens de la présente invention les graines non débarrassées de leur tégument.The present invention thus relates to an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. containing oil (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "whole seeds" is intended to mean seeds which have not been freed of their integument.
L'extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. est caractérisé par (% en poids par rapport au poids de l'extrait sec):Whole seed extract of Moringa sp. is characterized by (% by weight relative to the weight of the dry extract):
- une teneur en huile de 5% à 50% dont (i) 2% à 10% de triglycérides et acides gras et (ii) 5% à 15% de lipides polaires ; - et une teneur en polyphénols totaux de 0,01% à 5% (exprimés en g de pyrogallol pour 100 g d'extrait sec).an oil content of 5% to 50% including (i) 2% to 10% of triglycerides and fatty acids and (ii) 5% to 15% of polar lipids; and a content of total polyphenols of 0.01% to 5% (expressed as g of pyrogallol per 100 g of solids).
Selon une caractéristique de l'invention, ledit extrait présente une teneur en huile de 25% à 40% (% en poids par rapport au poids de l'extrait sec). Selon une autre caractéristique de l'invention, l'espèce de Moringa est préférentiellement le Moringa oleifera ou le Moringa drouhardii.According to one characteristic of the invention, said extract has an oil content of 25% to 40% (% by weight relative to the weight of the dry extract). According to another characteristic of the invention, the species of Moringa is preferably Moringa oleifera or Moringa drouhardii.
Ledit extrait de Moringa sp. selon la présente invention, pour lequel des valorisations cosmétiques et dermatologiques ont été démontrées, est obtenu à partir de graines entières de Moringa sp., avantageusement séchées, broyées puis soumises à au moins une extraction par un solvant moyennement polaire.Said extract of Moringa sp. according to the present invention, for which cosmetic and dermatological valuations have been demonstrated, is obtained from whole seeds of Moringa sp., advantageously dried, crushed and then subjected to at least one extraction with a medium polar solvent.
Par « solvant moyennement polaire », il faut entendre au sens de la présente invention un solvant choisi dans le groupe constitué d'un alcool en Cl à C4, d'acétone, d'un mélange eau / alcool et d'un mélange acétone / eau, utilisés seuls ou en mélanges.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "medium polar solvent" is intended to mean a solvent chosen from the group consisting of a C 1 to C 4 alcohol, acetone, a water / alcohol mixture and an acetone / acetone mixture. water, used alone or in mixtures.
De préférence, il s'agira d'un mélange éthanol / eau. Avantageusement, ce mélange éthanol / eau sera caractérisé par diverses proportions éthanol / eau de 9/1 à 7/3 (v/v).Preferably, it will be an ethanol / water mixture. Advantageously, this ethanol / water mixture will be characterized by various ethanol / water proportions of 9/1 to 7/3 (v / v).
Encore plus avantageusement, le solvant moyennement polaire est un mélange éthanol / eau de 9/1 ou 3/1 (v/v).Even more preferably, the medium polar solvent is an ethanol / water mixture of 9/1 or 3/1 (v / v).
L'extraction est réalisée sous agitation ou de façon statique, à reflux ou à température ambiante, dans un ratio poids de plante / volume de solvant pouvant varier de 1/5 à 1/20, pendant une durée de 30 minutes à 48 heures. L'extraction peut être renouvelée 2 ou 3 fois.The extraction is carried out with stirring or in a static manner, at reflux or at ambient temperature, in a ratio plant weight / solvent volume that can vary from 1/5 to 1/20, for a period of 30 minutes to 48 hours. The extraction can be renewed 2 or 3 times.
Le marc est ensuite séparé de l'extrait par centrifugation ou fîltration et la solution peut être plus ou moins concentrée jusqu'à l'obtention d'un extrait sec avec des rendements allant de 5% à 10%. L'extrait obtenu étant peu homogène, un support peut être rajouté lors de l'étape de séchage dans des proportions massiques par rapport à la matière sèche extraite pouvant varier de 1% à 75%. Le support peut être de la maltodextrine, du lactose, de la silice ou tout autre support cosmétologiquement acceptable et solubilisant l'extrait, comme par exemple le mélange propylène glycol / alcool oléique ethoxylé en diverses proportions.The marc is then separated from the extract by centrifugation or filtration and the solution may be more or less concentrated until a solids content is obtained with yields ranging from 5% to 10%. As the extract obtained is not homogeneous, a support may be added during the drying step in proportions by weight relative to the dry matter extracted, which may vary from 1% to 75%. The support may be maltodextrin, lactose, silica or any other cosmetologically acceptable carrier and solubilizing the extract, such as, for example, the propylene glycol / oleic alcohol mixture ethoxylated in various proportions.
L'extrait de Moringa sp. obtenu se caractérise par sa teneur en huile (dont triglycérides, acides gras et lipides polaires) et en polyphénols.The extract of Moringa sp. obtained is characterized by its oil content (including triglycerides, fatty acids and polar lipids) and polyphenols.
Un autre objet de la présente invention concerne un tel extrait de Moringa sp. pour son utilisation en tant que principe actif anti-âge. Préférentiellement, ledit extrait est destiné à lutter contre l'ensemble des signes du vieillissement cutané chez les personnes ayant une peau mature. Par « peau mature », on entend au sens de la présente invention, la peau des personnes ayant typiquement plus de 55 ans et plus préférentiellement plus de 60 ans. Les marques du vieillissement de la peau se traduisent notamment par une perte de fermeté et/ou d'élasticité et/ou de tonicité et/ou de souplesse de la peau et par la formation des rides et des ridules.Another subject of the present invention relates to such an extract of Moringa sp. for its use as an anti-aging active ingredient. Preferably, said extract is intended to combat all the signs of skin aging in people with mature skin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mature skin" is intended to mean the skin of persons who are typically over 55 years old and more preferably over 60 years old. The marks of aging of the skin result in particular in a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or suppleness of the skin and the formation of wrinkles and fine lines.
L'objet de la présente invention est donc de fournir un nouvel actif capable d'apporter à la fois la protection, l'hydratation et la nutrition à l'épiderme / la peau mature, et par conséquent de conférer à la peau des effets lissant, anti-relâchement, restructurant.The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a new active capable of providing both protection, hydration and nutrition to the epidermis / mature skin, and consequently to give the skin smoothing effects. , anti-loosening, restructuring.
A partir de différents types de tests, la demanderesse a évalué l'action globale anti-âge d'extraits de Moringa sp. selon la présente invention.From different types of tests, the Applicant has evaluated the overall anti-aging action of extracts of Moringa sp. according to the present invention.
Il a été montré que ce nouvel extrait apporte les différentes activités recherchées, à savoir à la fois :It has been shown that this new extract brings the different activities sought, namely:
- une activité anti-oxydante, anti-radicalaire pour limiter le processus d'oxydation lié au vieillissement intrinsèque et extrinsèque ;an anti-oxidant, anti-radical activity to limit the oxidation process related to intrinsic and extrinsic aging;
- une activité sur la restauration de la fonction barrière de la peau (structure protéique et lipidique de l'épiderme) altérée avec l'âge : l'utilisation dudit extrait permet de limiter la déshydratation cutanée et protège ainsi la peau ;- An activity on the restoration of the barrier function of the skin (protein and lipid structure of the epidermis) altered with age: the use of said extract limits skin dehydration and thus protects the skin;
- une activité sur la matrice extra-cellulaire pour améliorer les propriétés mécaniques de la peau mature (fermeté, élasticité, tonicité).an activity on the extracellular matrix to improve the mechanical properties of the mature skin (firmness, elasticity, tonicity).
L'extrait selon la présente invention favorise l'hydratation, le lissage, le non- relâchement, et la restructuration de la peau. L'extrait selon la présente invention permet ainsi d'embellir et d'unifier le teint de peau.The extract according to the present invention promotes hydration, smoothing, non-loosening, and restructuring of the skin. The extract according to the present invention thus makes it possible to embellish and unify the skin complexion.
Un autre objet de la présente invention concerne l'utilisation d'un extrait tel que défini pour renforcer et restaurer la fonction barrière de la peau.Another object of the present invention is the use of an extract as defined to enhance and restore the barrier function of the skin.
Au sens de l'invention, l'expression « renforcer la fonction barrière de la peau » signifie améliorer la fonction barrière de la peau. Une des fonctions fondamentales de la peau est d'assurer une barrière entre l'organisme et le milieu extérieur s'opposant dans un sens à la pénétration dans l'épiderme de champignons, bactéries et allergènes de l'environnement (« outside-in ») et dans l'autre sens à la perte en eau (« inside-out »). L'épiderme est un épithélium pluristratifïé, d'origine ectodermique, en perpétuel renouvellement. On distingue plusieurs couches de nature morphologique et de composition cellulaire différentes, de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur : la couche basale, assise cellulaire dont les kératinocytes ont une capacité de prolifération très forte qui permet d'assurer l' autorenouvellement de l'épiderme, puis les couches suprabasales (les couches granuleuse, épineuse) et enfin la couche cornée (Stratum Corneum, SC). Ces stades correspondent à des niveaux de différenciation kératinocytaire de plus en plus avancés. Les kératinocytes de la couche basale perdent leur capacité de prolifération dès qu'elles entrent dans un processus de migration vers la surface de l'épiderme, pendant lequel les kératinocytes vont exprimer un programme de différenciation conduisant à la cornifïcation, processus de mort cellulaire programmée. La fonction barrière cutanée est assurée en premier lieu par la couche cornée, ensemble solide et étanche formé de deux compartiments : - un ciment intercornéocytaire riche en lipides : les lipides, organisés en feuillets et liés aux cellules de façon covalente, limitent la pénétration des molécules à travers la couche cornée ;For the purposes of the invention, the expression "reinforcing the barrier function of the skin" means improving the barrier function of the skin. One of the fundamental functions of the skin is to provide a barrier between the body and the external environment, opposing in a sense the penetration into the epidermis of fungi, bacteria and allergens of the environment ("outside-in" ) and in the other direction to the water loss ("inside-out"). The epidermis is a pluristratified epithelium, of ectodermal origin, in perpetual renewal. There are several layers of different morphological and cellular composition, from the inside to the outside: the basal layer, a cell base whose keratinocytes have a very strong proliferation capacity which allows the self-renewal of the epidermis then the suprabasal layers (the granular, thorny layers) and finally the stratum corneum (Stratum Corneum, SC). These stages correspond to more and more advanced levels of keratinocyte differentiation. The keratinocytes of the basal layer lose their capacity for proliferation as soon as they enter a process of migration towards the surface of the epidermis, during which the keratinocytes will express a program of differentiation leading to the cornification, a process of programmed cell death. The cutaneous barrier function is ensured in the first place by the stratum corneum, a solid and tight assembly formed of two compartments: - a lipid-rich intercorneocyte cement: the lipids, organized in layers and covalently linked to the cells, limit the penetration of the molecules through the stratum corneum;
- des couches de cellules cornifïées, mortes et dépourvues d'organites (cornéocytes), qui correspondent à l'étape finale de la différenciation kératinocytaire. L'intégrité du ciment lipidique extracellulaire ainsi que de tous les éléments cellulaires de la couche cornée et l'équilibre entre prolifération et différenciation kératinocytaire sont capitaux pour le maintien d'une fonction barrière épidermique fonctionnelle.layers of cornified cells, dead and devoid of organelles (corneocytes), which correspond to the final stage of the keratinocyte differentiation. The integrity of the extracellular lipid cement as well as all the cellular elements of the stratum corneum and the balance between keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation are essential for maintaining a functional epidermal barrier function.
La perturbation de la fonction barrière, chronique ou aiguë, rend l'organisme sensible aux agressions extérieures et à la déshydratation.The disruption of the barrier function, chronic or acute, makes the body sensitive to external aggression and dehydration.
L'amélioration de la fonction barrière est en particulier déterminante lorsque la fonction barrière de la peau est altérée et qu'il est nécessaire de la rétablir. C'est le cas dans un certain nombre d'états physiologiques, en réponse au temps (vieillissement cutané) ou en lien avec le contexte hormonal ou des stress. La vitesse de cette restauration permettant le retour à l'homéostasie est retardée. De plus, la fonction barrière cutanée est altérée dans la majorité des pathologies de la peau les plus répandues dans la population qui sont souvent accompagnées d'une composante inflammatoire (sécheresse cutanée...). L'amélioration de la fonction barrière peut également être avantageuse lorsqu'on souhaite consolider la fonction native de la peau, afin de conférer notamment à l'organisme une meilleure résistance aux agressions extérieures vis à vis desquelles il est susceptible d'être exposé, notamment de type environnemental (Ultraviolets, taux d'humidité, température extérieure, pollution, brûlures). La fonction barrière de la peau comprend tous les mécanismes de défense naturelle vis à vis des agressions auxquelles elle est sujette. L'élément essentiel assurant cette fonction se situe dans la partie la plus superficielle de l'épiderme, au niveau de la couche cornée, appelée le stratum corneum.In particular, the improvement of the barrier function is crucial when the barrier function of the skin is impaired and it is necessary to restore it. This is the case in a certain number of physiological states, in response to time (skin aging) or in connection with the hormonal context or stress. The speed of this restoration allowing the return to homeostasis is delayed. In addition, the cutaneous barrier function is impaired in the majority of the most common skin conditions in the population that are often accompanied by an inflammatory component (dry skin ...). The improvement of the barrier function may also be advantageous when it is desired to consolidate the native function of the skin, in order to confer in particular on the body a better resistance to the external aggressions against which it is likely to be exposed, in particular Environmental type (Ultraviolet, humidity, outdoor temperature, pollution, burns). The barrier function of the skin includes all the mechanisms of natural defense against the aggressions to which it is subject. The essential element providing this function is located in the most superficial part of the epidermis, at the level of the stratum corneum, called the stratum corneum.
Il a été montré à partir de différents tests que l'extrait tel que défini manifeste avantageusement une activité de restauration de la structure lipidique et de la structure protéique de l'épiderme.It has been shown from various tests that the extract as defined advantageously demonstrates an activity for restoring the lipid structure and the protein structure of the epidermis.
L'utilisation de l'extrait selon la présente invention s'avère tout particulièrement efficace pour le renforcement et la restauration de la fonction barrière cutanée.The use of the extract according to the present invention is particularly effective for strengthening and restoring the cutaneous barrier function.
Un autre objet de la présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique comprenant, à titre de principe actif, un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. selon l'invention et au moins un excipient cosmétologiquement et/ou dermato logiquement acceptable.Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, as active ingredient, an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to the invention and at least one cosmetologically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient.
Ladite composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique selon la présente invention comprend une quantité d'extrait sec de graines entières de Moringa sp. comprise entre 0,1 g et 5 g pour 100 g de ladite composition.Said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the present invention comprises a quantity of dry extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. between 0.1 g and 5 g per 100 g of said composition.
Avantageusement, ladite quantité d'extrait de Moringa sp. est comprise entre 0,25 g et 1 g pour 100 g de composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique.Advantageously, said amount of Moringa sp. is between 0.25 g and 1 g per 100 g of cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.
Plus particulièrement, l'invention concerne une composition cosmétique anti-âge. Préférentiellement, ladite composition cosmétique est destinée à lutter contre l'ensemble des signes du vieillissement cutané chez les personnes ayant une peau mature.More particularly, the invention relates to an anti-aging cosmetic composition. Preferably, said cosmetic composition is intended to combat all the signs of skin aging in people with mature skin.
La composition cosmétique anti-âge selon la présente invention peut contenir, en outre, un ou plusieurs autres principes actifs tels que des actifs destinés à la protection solaire et/ou des actifs destinés à la dépigmentation de la peau.The anti-aging cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain, in addition, one or more other active ingredients such as active agents for sunscreen and / or skin depigmenting active agents.
Les actifs destinés à la protection solaire sont choisis, en outre, parmi des molécules de synthèse chimique réputées pour leur action anti UVA, pour leur action anti UVB telles que l'octocrylène et/ou la dioctyl butamido triazone et/ou la bis- ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazineThe active ingredients for sun protection are furthermore chosen from among chemical synthesis molecules known for their anti-UVA action, for their anti-UVB action such as octocrylene and / or dioctyl butamido triazone and / or bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl. methoxyphenyl triazine
Les actifs destinés à la dépigmentation de la peau, pour éclaircir et unifier le teint, peuvent être, en outre, la niacinamide, la vitamine C et ses dérivés. L'excipient cosmétologiquement acceptable en vue d'obtenir une composition cosmétique anti-âge est choisi pour permettre une administration topique ou orale.The active agents for depigmentation of the skin, to lighten and even out the complexion, may be, in addition, niacinamide, vitamin C and its derivatives. The cosmetologically acceptable excipient for obtaining an anti-aging cosmetic composition is chosen to allow topical or oral administration.
Avantageusement, la forme topique est choisie parmi le groupe constitué d'un lait, d'une crème, d'un baume, d'une huile, d'une lotion, d'un gel, d'un gel moussant, d'une pommade, d'un spray, etc.Advantageously, the topical form is chosen from the group consisting of a milk, a cream, a balm, an oil, a lotion, a gel, a foaming gel, a ointment, spray, etc.
Avantageusement, la forme orale est choisie parmi le groupe constitué de comprimés, gélules, pastilles, poudre, granules, solutions ou suspensions orales.Advantageously, the oral form is chosen from the group consisting of tablets, capsules, lozenges, powder, granules, solutions or oral suspensions.
Plus particulièrement, l'invention concerne également une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique destinée à renforcer et restaurer la fonction barrière de la peau.More particularly, the invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to strengthen and restore the barrier function of the skin.
L'excipient cosmétologiquement et/ou dermato logiquement acceptable en vue d'obtenir une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique renforçant et restaurant la fonction barrière de la peau est choisi pour permettre une administration topique.The cosmetologically and / or dermato logically acceptable excipient for obtaining a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition reinforcing and restoring the barrier function of the skin is chosen to allow topical administration.
Avantageusement, la forme topique est choisie parmi le groupe constitué d'un lait, d'une crème, d'un baume, d'une huile, d'une lotion, d'un gel, d'un gel moussant, d'une pommade, d'un spray, etc.Advantageously, the topical form is chosen from the group consisting of a milk, a cream, a balm, an oil, a lotion, a gel, a foaming gel, a ointment, spray, etc.
Un autre objet de la présente invention concerne un procédé cosmétique pour lutter contre l'ensemble des signes du vieillissement cutané chez les personnes ayant une peau mature, caractérisé en ce qu'il implique l'utilisation par voie topique ou orale d'un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. selon l'invention.Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for combating all the signs of cutaneous aging in persons with mature skin, characterized in that it involves the use, topically or orally, of an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to the invention.
Les préparations et les compositions suivantes sont citées à titre d'exemples illustratifs et non limitatifs. The following preparations and compositions are cited by way of illustrative and non-limiting examples.
EXEMPLES DE PREPARATION DE L'EXTRAIT VEGETALEXAMPLES OF PREPARATION OF PLANT EXTRACT
Exemple 1Example 1
2,5 kg de graines entières de Moringa oleifera séchées et broyées sont extraites par 17,5 L d'éthanol 90 (proportion éthanol / eau = 9/1) par deux extractions à contre- courant à 800C. Après refroidissement du milieu à 500C, la solution extraite est récupérée par séparation solide / liquide. L'échantillon est séché permettant d'obtenir 243 g d'extrait. Cet extrait est caractérisé par une teneur en huile de 36% dont (i) 10% de triglycérides et acides gras et (ii) 10% de lipides polaires et une teneur en polyphénols totaux de 0.02% (exprimés en g de pyrogallol pour 100 g d'extrait sec).2.5 kg of dried and ground Moringa oleifera whole seeds are extracted with 17.5 L of ethanol 90 (ethanol / water ratio = 9/1) by two countercurrent extractions at 80 ° C. After cooling of the medium at 50 ° C., the extracted solution is recovered by solid / liquid separation. The sample is dried to obtain 243 g of extract. This extract is characterized by an oil content of 36% of which (i) 10% of triglycerides and fatty acids and (ii) 10% of polar lipids and a content of total polyphenols of 0.02% (expressed as g of pyrogallol per 100 g of dry extract).
Exemple 2Example 2
20 g de graines entières de Moringa oleifera séchées et broyées sont extraites par20 g of dried and ground Moringa oleifera whole seeds are extracted by
100 ml du mélange éthanol / eau 75:25 à reflux pendant 1 heure. La solution extraite est récupérée par séparation solide / liquide et séchée à l'évaporateur rotatif à 500C. 1,66 g d'extrait sont ainsi obtenus sous forme de pâte marron titrant à 5% d'huile et 0,68% de polyphénols totaux exprimés en pyrogallol.100 ml of the mixture ethanol / water 75:25 at reflux for 1 hour. The extracted solution is recovered by solid / liquid separation and dried on a rotary evaporator at 50 ° C. 1.66 g of extract are thus obtained in the form of a brown paste containing 5% of oil and 0.68% of total polyphenols expressed as pyrogallol.
Exemple 3 20 g de graines entières de Moringa drouhardii séchées et broyées sont extraites par 200 ml du mélange éthanol / eau 90 :10 à reflux pendant 1 heure. La solution extraite est récupérée par séparation solide / liquide et séchée à l'évaporateur rotatif à 500C. 1,29 g d'extrait sont ainsi obtenus sous forme d'une pâte jaune-marron titrant à 35% d'huile (triglycérides, acides gras et lipides polaires) et 1,3% de polyphénols totaux exprimés en pyrogallol.Example 3 20 g of dried and ground Moringa drouhardii whole seeds are extracted with 200 ml of 90:10 ethanol / water at reflux for 1 hour. The extracted solution is recovered by solid / liquid separation and dried on a rotary evaporator at 50 ° C. 1.29 g of extract are thus obtained in the form of a yellow-brown paste titrating at 35% of oil (triglycerides fatty acids and polar lipids) and 1.3% of total polyphenols expressed as pyrogallol.
EXEMPLES DE COMPOSITIONS COSMETIQUESEXAMPLES OF COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
Exemple 4 : soin pour les yeux ComposéExample 4: Compound Eye Care
Extrait sec graine Moringa sp.Dry extract Moringa seed sp.
Acétate tocophéryle (alpha)Tocopheryl acetate (alpha)
Dextran sulfateDextran sulfate
Dioctyl butamido triazone Octocrylène Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine 1 à 10 g Cire glucoside 202 1 à 5 g Stéarate GLY./PEG-100 stéarate 1 à 5 g Benzoate C 12-Cl 5 5 g Pentanoate(neo)isodécyl 1 à 8 gDioctyl butamido triazone Octocrylene Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine 1 to 10 g Glucoside wax 202 1 to 5 g Stearate GLY./PEG-100 stearate 1 to 5 g Benzoate C 12-Cl 5 5 g Pentanoate (neo) isodecyl 1 to 8 g
Siloxane(cytclopenta)décaméthyl 1 à 8 g Glycérine 99.5% 1 à 5 gSiloxane (cytclopenta) decamethyl 1 to 8 g Glycerine 99.5% 1 to 5 g
Hydroxyéthyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymère 1 g Xanthane gomme TF 0,3 g Capryl glycol qsHydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer 1 g Xanthane gum TF 0.3 g Capryl glycol qs
Sorbate potassium qs Eau purifiée qsp 100 gPotassium sorbate qs Purified water qs 100 g
Exemple 5 : crème revitalisante éclat ComposéExample 5: Revitalizing Creme Radiance Compound
Extrait sec graine Moringa sp.Dry extract Moringa seed sp.
Acétate tocophéryle (alpha)Tocopheryl acetate (alpha)
Niacinamideniacinamide
Methoxycinnamate(p)éthylhexyl OctocrylèneMethoxycinnamate (p) ethylhexyl Octocrylene
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazineBis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine
Behenin(tri)/PEG-20Behenin (tri) / PEG-20
Cétylique alcool >95%Cetyl Alcohol> 95%
Palmitate glycol Siloxane(cyclopenta)décaméthylPalmitate glycol Siloxane (cyclopenta) decamethyl
Méthicone(di)200FLMethicone (di) 200FL
Capric caprylic/trigly.30 70Capric caprylic / trigly.30 70
Méthicone(cyclo)Mel.9040Methicone (cyclo) Mel.9040
Xanthane gomme TF Hydroxyéthyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymèreXanthan gum TF Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer
Glycérine 99.5%Glycerin 99.5%
Capryl glycolCapryl Glycol
Acide sorbiqueSorbic acid
Butylhydroxytoluène Oxyde titane/AI/Séricite MeIButylhydroxytoluene Titanium Oxide / Al / Serite MeI
Hydroxyde de sodiumSodium hydroxide
Eau purifiée EVALUATION DE L'ACTIVITE ANTI-OXYDANTEPurified water EVALUATION OF THE ANTI-OXIDIZING ACTIVITY
Test DPPHDPPH test
L'activité anti-oxydante de l'extrait de graines de Moringa oleifera selon la présente invention a été évaluée avec le test DPPH. Ce test est basé sur la mesure de la capacité de piégeage des anti-oxydants du radical stable 2,2-diphenyl-l-picrylhydrazylThe antioxidant activity of the Moringa oleifera seed extract according to the present invention was evaluated with the DPPH test. This test is based on the measurement of the antioxidant trapping capacity of the stable 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical.
(DPPH). Ce radical stable, absorbant à 517 nm, est réduit à l'hydrazine correspondante lorsqu'il réagit avec un donneur d'hydrogène.(DPPH). This stable radical, absorbing at 517 nm, is reduced to the corresponding hydrazine when it reacts with a hydrogen donor.
Résultats : Les résultats obtenus sont exprimés en IC50, correspondant à la concentration donnant 50% de réduction de l'absorbance d'une solution méthanolique de DPPH à 0.06 mM.Results: The results obtained are expressed as IC50, corresponding to the concentration giving 50% reduction in the absorbance of a methanolic solution of DPPH at 0.06 mM.
L'extrait selon l'invention possède une activité anti-oxydante principalement apportée par les molécules présentes dans le tégument.The extract according to the invention has an antioxidant activity mainly provided by the molecules present in the integument.
Chemiluminescencechemiluminescence
C'est une méthode qui génère des radicaux libres (radical superoxide O2 "") par un signal photochimique. L'intensité de l'oxydation est 1000 fois supérieure à celle obtenue en conditions normales. La détection se fait par chemiluminescence et permet l'évaluation d'extraits ou de molécules anti-oxydants lipo- ou hydrosolubles. Les résultats sont exprimés respectivement en quantité équivalente de vitamine C ou de Trolox (6-Hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic Acid). La sensibilité est de l'ordre de la nanomole.It is a method that generates free radicals (superoxide radical O 2 "" ) by a photochemical signal. The intensity of the oxidation is 1000 times higher than that obtained under normal conditions. The detection is by chemiluminescence and allows the evaluation of extracts or anti-oxidant molecules lipo or water-soluble. The results are expressed respectively in equivalent amount of vitamin C or Trolox (6-Hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid). The sensitivity is of the order of the nanomole.
wrfîo-t- ψyv ^o Nt^ AO wrfîo-t-ψyv ^ o Nt ^ AO
Résultats : 65 μg d'extrait selon l'exemple 1 sont nécessaires pour obtenir une activité équivalente à l'activité détectée pour 1 μg de trolox : activité équivalente au lycopène, molécule connue pour son activité anti-oxydante.Results: 65 μg of extract according to Example 1 are necessary to obtain an activity equivalent to the activity detected for 1 μg of trolox: activity equivalent to lycopene, a molecule known for its antioxidant activity.
Il a été également confirmé dans ce test que l'activité anti-oxydante observée était principalement portée par les molécules du tégument : seulement 4,7 μg d'un extrait EtOH 90% de tégument sont nécessaires pour 1 μg de trolox (activité équivalente à la génistéine). Ceci confirme l'importance d'utiliser selon l'invention les graines entières deIt was also confirmed in this test that the antioxidant activity observed was mainly carried by the integument molecules: only 4.7 μg of an extract EtOH 90% of integument are necessary for 1 μg of trolox (activity equivalent to genistein). This confirms the importance of using according to the invention the whole seeds of
Moringa sp.Moringa sp.
Les radicaux libres, dont la production est accrue suite aux agressions extérieuresFree radicals, whose production is increased due to external aggressions
(froid, pollution, tabac, UV) sont responsables des altérations de l'ADN des cellules cutanées, mais aussi des membranes cellulaires et mitochondriales. L'activité anti- radicalaire de l'extrait préparé selon l'exemple 1 permet de lutter contre le vieillissement cutané intrinsèque et extrinsèque.(cold, pollution, tobacco, UV) are responsible for the alterations of the DNA of the cutaneous cells, but also of the cellular and mitochondrial membranes. The anti-radical activity of the extract prepared according to Example 1 makes it possible to combat intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging.
EVALUATION DE L'ACTIVITE SUR LA RESTAURATION DE LA FONCTION BARRIEREEVALUATION OF THE ACTIVITY ON THE RESTORATION OF THE BARRIER FUNCTION
L'épiderme joue un rôle protecteur majeur en procurant une barrière chimique et mécanique pour le corps. Elle assure le maintien de l'étanchéité, à savoir la fonction barrière cutanée. Les cornéocytes, kératinocytes de la couche cornée, associés à une matrice lipidique, assurent en grande partie cette fonction. Néanmoins les couches plus profondes interviennent dans la mise en place des acteurs de cette fonction. La capacité de différenciation des kératinocytes de l'épiderme va garantir la mise en place d'une barrière de type perméabilité sélective fonctionnelle (Elias PM. J Invest Dermatol 125 183-200 (2005)).The epidermis plays a major protective role in providing a chemical and mechanical barrier for the body. It ensures the maintenance of the seal, namely the skin barrier function. Corneocytes, keratinocytes of the stratum corneum, associated with a lipid matrix, largely ensure this function. Nevertheless the deeper layers intervene in the setting up of the actors of this function. The differentiation capacity of the keratinocytes of the epidermis will guarantee the establishment of a functional selective permeability barrier (Elias PM, J Invest Dermatol 125 183-200 (2005)).
D'un point de vue protéique, la différenciation épidermique est majoritairement axée sur l'évolution de protéines de structure que sont les kératines et qui contribuent à l'intégrité architecturale de l'épiderme. Leur expression varie en fonction du degré de maturation des kératinocytes. La kératine 1 basique et la kératine 10 acide, sont des marqueurs précoces de la différenciation kératinocytaire, présents dès la couche basale de l'épiderme. L'expression d'autres marqueurs de ce processus biologique, plus tardifs, peut être suivie telle que celle des protéines de l'enveloppe cornée, comme l'involucrine, ainsi que certaines enzymes majeures à l'origine du pontage des protéines de structure entre elles et avec des lipides kératinocytaires, les transglutaminases, telles que la transglutaminase 1 (TGl) (Houben E, et al. Skin Pharmacol PhysioL; 20(3): 122-32 (2007)).From a protein point of view, epidermal differentiation is mainly focused on the evolution of structural proteins that are keratins and that contribute to the architectural integrity of the epidermis. Their expression varies according to the degree of maturation of the keratinocytes. Basic keratin 1 and acidic keratin 1 are early markers of keratinocyte differentiation present in the basal layer of the epidermis. The expression of other markers of this biological process, later, can be followed such as that of the proteins of the horny envelope, such as involucrine, as well as certain major enzymes causing the bridging of structural proteins between they and with keratinocyte lipids, transglutaminases, such as transglutaminase 1 (TG1) (Houben E, et al., Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 20 (3): 122-32 (2007)).
Parallèlement, la synthèse et le transport de lipides kératinocytaires sont à l'origine du ciment lipidique intercornéocytaire indispensable à la barrière cutanée, dont la formation représente la phase ultime de la différenciation épidermique terminale. Cette matrice lipidique extra-cellulaire fournit la principale barrière aux mouvements transcutanés d'eau et d'électrolytes Mizutani Y., et al. FEBS Lett. 563: 93 (2004)) Ainsi un certain nombre d'enzymes et de transporteurs lipidiques voient leur expression kératinocytaire augmenter avec la différenciation. En particulier certains membres de la famille des transporteurs ABC (Adenosine Triphosphate Binding Cassette transporter) joue un rôle majeur dans les étapes de mise en place de la barrière lipidique. Ainsi ABC Gl qui transporte spécifiquement le glycérol, et ABC A12, indispensable au transfert des précurseurs lipidiques dans les corps lamellaires, sont des marqueurs sensibles. Les céramides épidermiques jouent un rôle spécifique majeur et représentent un marqueur essentiel du niveau de fonctionnalité de la barrière cutanée. Ainsi des enzymes intervenant dans la synthèse des céramides cutanés, voient leur expression et leur activité spécifiquement augmentées lors d'une rupture de la fonction barrière épidermique et avec le niveau de différenciation épidermique. C'est le cas en particulier de la Sphingolipid C4-hydroxylase/delta-4 desaturase ou hDES2 dont l'activité dihydrocéramide hydroxylase concourt à la synthèse des phytocéramides cutanés chez l'homme (Feingold, K.R. J Lipid Res 48 : 2531-2546 (2007)).At the same time, the synthesis and transport of keratinocyte lipids are at the origin of the intercorneocyte lipid cement essential for the cutaneous barrier, the formation of which represents the final phase of epidermal terminal differentiation. This extracellular lipid matrix provides the main barrier to transcutaneous movements of water and electrolytes Mizutani Y., et al. FEBS Lett. 563: 93 (2004)) Thus a number of enzymes and lipid transporters see their keratinocyte expression increase with differentiation. In particular, certain members of the ABC (Adenosine Triphosphate Binding Cassette transporter) family play a major role in the steps of lipid barrier implantation. Thus ABC Gl which carries glycerol specifically, and ABC A12, essential for the transfer of lipid precursors in the lamellar bodies, are sensitive markers. Epidermal ceramides play a major specific role and represent an essential marker of the level of functionality of the skin barrier. Thus enzymes involved in the synthesis of cutaneous ceramides, see their expression and their activity specifically increased during a rupture of the epidermal barrier function and with the level of epidermal differentiation. This is the case in particular of Sphingolipid C4-hydroxylase / delta-4 desaturase or hDES2 whose dihydroceramide hydroxylase activity contributes to the synthesis of cutaneous phytoceramides in humans (Feingold, KR J Lipid Res 48: 2531-2546 ( 2007)).
Dans un premier temps, l'effet d'extraits selon l'invention a été étudié à partir d'un modèle de kératinocytes normaux humains (NHK) différenciés. Et dans un deuxième temps, cet effet a été étudié à partir d'un modèle de sénescence kératinocytaire.In a first step, the effect of extracts according to the invention was studied from a model of differentiated normal human keratinocytes (NHK). And in a second time, this effect was studied from a model of keratinocyte senescence.
Modèle de différenciation de kératinocytes normaux humainsDifferentiation model of normal human keratinocytes
L'effet d'extraits de Moringa sp. sur l'expression génique de différentes protéines impliquées dans la synthèse ou le transport des lipides épidermiques, ABC Gl et hDES2, a été analysé.The effect of extracts of Moringa sp. on the gene expression of different proteins involved in the synthesis or transport of epidermal lipids, ABC Gl and hDES2, was analyzed.
Résultats :Results:
Les résultats sont exprimés en pourcentage de stimulation de l'expression génique (mRNA) de différents marqueurs de la différenciation épidermique exprimés par les NHKs (par rapport aux cellules non traitées). On considère un effet positif significatif à partir de 100% de stimulation. Les résultats obtenus sont présentés dans le tableau ci- dessous.The results are expressed as a percentage of stimulation of the gene expression (mRNA) of different markers of epidermal differentiation expressed by NHKs (compared to untreated cells). A significant positive effect is considered from 100% stimulation. The results obtained are shown in the table below.
Tableau 1 : effet de la vitamine D3, de la roziglitazone et de l'extrait selon l'invention à partir d'un modèle de kératinocvtes normaux humains (NHK) différenciés.Table 1: Effect of vitamin D3, roziglitazone and the extract according to the invention from a model of differentiated normal human keratinocytes (NHK).
L'extrait préparé selon l'exemple 1 à 20 μg/ml induit l'expression génique de hDES2 et ABC Gl. L'extrait préparé selon l'exemple 1 permet de restaurer la différenciation épidermique lipidique à l'origine de la mise en place de la barrière hydrophobe permettant de limiter la déshydratation cutanée, notamment rencontrée chez les peaux matures.The extract prepared according to Example 1 at 20 μg / ml induces the gene expression of hDES2 and ABC Gl. The extract prepared according to Example 1 makes it possible to restore the lipidic epidermal differentiation at the origin of the establishment of the hydrophobic barrier making it possible to limit skin dehydration, which is particularly encountered in mature skin.
Modèle de sénescence kératinocytaireModel of keratinocyte senescence
Les capacités de régénération de la barrière cutanée étant diminuées chez les sujets âgés (Tagami , Arch. Derm. Res. 2007), nous avons utilisé un modèle mimant le processus de sénescence kératinocytaire, à partir d'une lignée de kératinocytes humains HaCaT traités à l'H2O2. Nous avons analysé l'effet des extraits de Moringa sp. sur la restauration de l'expression (ARNms) des marqueurs de différenciation protéique dont l'expression était inhibée par la sénescence des cellules, tels que : Kl et involucrine.As the skin barrier regeneration capacity is reduced in the elderly (Tagami, Arch Derm Res 2007), we used a model mimicking the process of keratinocyte senescence, from a line of HaCaT human keratinocytes treated with H 2 O 2 . We analyzed the effect of extracts of Moringa sp. on the expression restoration (mRNA) of protein differentiation markers whose expression was inhibited by cell senescence, such as: Kl and involucrine.
Résultats :Results:
L'extrait selon l'exemple 1, à 1 et 10 μg/ml permet de restaurer l'expression de Kl (11 et 35% respectivement) et de l'involucrine (15% pour 10 μg/ml).The extract according to Example 1, at 1 and 10 μg / ml makes it possible to restore the expression of Kl (11 and 35% respectively) and involucrine (15% for 10 μg / ml).
ConclusionConclusion
Les résultats obtenus d'après les deux modèles montrent bien la complémentarité d'action (à la fois sur la restauration de la structure lipidique et de la structure protéique de l'épiderme) de l'extrait selon la présente invention.The results obtained from the two models show the complementarity of action (both on the restoration of the lipid structure and the protein structure of the epidermis) of the extract according to the present invention.
EVALUATION DE L'ACTIVITE DE LA MATRICE EXTRA-CELLULAIREEVALUATION OF THE ACTIVITY OF THE EXTRA-CELLULAR MATRIX
La matrice extracellulaire (MEC) est une structure dynamique ayant un rôle structurel et régulateur pour les tissus. Elle confère à la peau sa turgescence et ses propriétés mécaniques : fermeté, élasticité et tonicité. Au niveau de l'épiderme elle occupe l'espace intercellulaire et joue un rôle de maintien pour l'édifice épidermique. Elle assure également les échanges entre les cellules de l'épiderme et joue un rôle dans l'activité cellulaire. La MEC de l'épiderme est constituée notamment de collagène (protéine fibreuse) de type IV. Lorsqu'une cellule est sénescente, les composants de la MEC sont majoritairement dégradés par des enzymes du type endopeptidases à zinc appelés métalloprotéinases matricielles ou MMPs. Celles-ci participent activement au processus de cicatrisation mais elles contribuent aussi au relâchement cutané et à l'apparition des rides qui sont les premiers signes du vieillissement cutané. Parmi elles, la MMP-9 est une gélatinase qui a une activité contre les molécules de collagène dénaturées (gélatine) mais peut également cliver les molécules natives de collagène de type IV, V et VII.Extracellular matrix (ECM) is a dynamic structure with a structural and regulatory role for tissues. It gives the skin its turgidity and its mechanical properties: firmness, elasticity and tone. At the level of the epidermis it occupies the intercellular space and plays a role of maintenance for the epidermal edifice. It also exchanges between cells of the epidermis and plays a role in cell activity. The ECM of the epidermis consists in particular of collagen (fibrous protein) type IV. When a cell is senescent, the components of the ECM are mainly degraded by enzymes of the zinc endopeptidase type called matrix metalloproteinases or MMPs. These actively participate in the healing process but they also contribute to sagging skin and the appearance of wrinkles that are the first signs of skin aging. Among them, MMP-9 is a gelatinase that has activity against denatured collagen molecules (gelatin) but can also cleave native molecules of type IV, V and VII collagen.
Sur une lignée de kératinocytes humains HaCaT traités à l'H2O2 mimant le processus de sénescence cellulaire, nous avons analysé l'effet d'extraits de Moringa sp. sur l'expression des ARNm de MMP-9. Résultats :On a line of human H 2 O 2 -treated HaCaT keratinocytes mimicking the cellular senescence process, we analyzed the effect of extracts of Moringa sp. on the expression of MMP-9 mRNAs. Results:
L'extrait préparé selon l'exemple 1 inhibe l'expression génique de MMP-9 à 1, 10 et 30 μg/ml, et ceci de façon significative aux trois concentrations.The extract prepared according to Example 1 inhibits the gene expression of MMP-9 at 1, 10 and 30 μg / ml, and this significantly at the three concentrations.
L'extrait préparé selon l'exemple 1 permet de restaurer les propriétés mécaniques de la MEC : fermeté, élasticité et tonicité de la MEC de la peau et permet également de restaurer la structure protéique de l'épiderme. The extract prepared according to Example 1 makes it possible to restore the mechanical properties of the MEK: firmness, elasticity and tone of the ECM of the skin and also makes it possible to restore the protein structure of the epidermis.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. présentant (% en poids par rapport au poids de l'extrait sec) - une teneur en huile de 5% à 50% dont (i) 2% à 10% de triglycérides et acides gras et (ii) 5% à 15% de lipides polaires ;1. Whole seed extract of Moringa sp. having (% by weight based on the weight of the dry extract) - an oil content of 5% to 50% of which (i) 2% to 10% of triglycerides and fatty acids and (ii) 5% to 15% of polar lipids;
- et une teneur en polyphénols totaux de 0,01% à 5% (exprimés en g de pyrogallol pour 100 g d'extrait sec).and a content of total polyphenols of 0.01% to 5% (expressed as g of pyrogallol per 100 g of solids).
2. Extrait selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'il s'agit d'un extrait obtenu en solvant moyennement polaire.2. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an extract obtained in medium polar solvent.
3. Extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce qu'il s'agit plus particulièrement de Moringa oleifera ou de Moringa drouhardii.3. Whole seed extract of Moringa sp. according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is more particularly Moringa oleifera or Moringa drouhardii.
4. Utilisation d'un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, en tant que principe actif anti-âge.4. Use of an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to any one of claims 1 to 3, as an anti-aging active ingredient.
5. Utilisation selon la revendication 4 caractérisé en ce que ledit principe actif est destiné à lutter contre l'ensemble des signes du vieillissement cutané chez les personnes ayant une peau mature.5. Use according to claim 4 characterized in that said active ingredient is intended to combat all signs of skin aging in people with mature skin.
6. Utilisation d'un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, pour renforcer et restaurer la fonction barrière de la peau.6. Use of an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to any one of claims 1 to 3, for strengthening and restoring the barrier function of the skin.
7. Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique comprenant, à titre de principe actif, un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 et au moins un excipient cosmétologiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable.7. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, as active ingredient, an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and at least one cosmetologically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient.
8. Composition selon la revendication 7, comprenant une quantité d'extrait sec de graines entières de Moringa sp. comprise entre 0,1 g et 5 g pour 100 g de ladite composition.The composition of claim 7 comprising an amount of dry extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. between 0.1 g and 5 g per 100 g of said composition.
9. Composition selon la revendication 7, contenant en outre un ou plusieurs autres principes actifs destinés à la protection solaire et/ à la dépigmentation de la peau. 9. The composition of claim 7, further containing one or more other active ingredients for sunscreen and / or depigmentation of the skin.
10. Procédé cosmétique pour lutter contre l'ensemble des signes du vieillissement cutané chez les personnes ayant une peau mature, caractérisé en ce qu'il implique l'utilisation par voie topique ou orale d'un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3.10. Cosmetic process for combating all the signs of cutaneous aging in persons with mature skin, characterized in that it involves the use, topically or orally, of an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3.
11. Procédé de préparation d'un extrait de graines entières de Moringa sp. selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé par les étapes suivantes :11. Process for the preparation of an extract of whole seeds of Moringa sp. according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by the following steps:
- broyage des graines entières ; - au moins une extraction par un solvant moyennement polaire ;- grinding whole seeds; at least one extraction with a medium polar solvent;
- centrifugation ou fîltration ;- centrifugation or filtration;
- et séchage.- and drying.
12. Procédé selon la revendication 11, caractérisé en ce que le solvant moyennement polaire est choisi dans le groupe constitué d'un alcool en Cl à C4, d'acétone, d'un mélange alcool / eau et d'un mélange acétone / eau, utilisés seuls ou en mélanges.12. The method of claim 11, characterized in that the medium polar solvent is selected from the group consisting of a C1 to C4 alcohol, acetone, an alcohol / water mixture and an acetone / water mixture. , used alone or in mixtures.
13. Procédé selon la revendication 11 ou 12, caractérisé en ce que le solvant moyennement polaire est un mélange éthanol / eau, préférentiellement dans des proportions éthanol / eau comprises entre 9/1 et 7/3 (v/v). 13. The method of claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the medium polar solvent is an ethanol / water mixture, preferably in proportions of ethanol / water between 9/1 and 7/3 (v / v).
EP10734255A 2009-06-22 2010-06-17 Extract of whole seeds of moringa sp, and use thereof in cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions Withdrawn EP2445480A2 (en)

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