EP2331735B1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines konturierten artikels mit gesäumten stricklaschen auf einer rundstrickmaschine für strickwaren, maschenwaren und dergleichen - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines konturierten artikels mit gesäumten stricklaschen auf einer rundstrickmaschine für strickwaren, maschenwaren und dergleichen Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2331735B1
EP2331735B1 EP09815664A EP09815664A EP2331735B1 EP 2331735 B1 EP2331735 B1 EP 2331735B1 EP 09815664 A EP09815664 A EP 09815664A EP 09815664 A EP09815664 A EP 09815664A EP 2331735 B1 EP2331735 B1 EP 2331735B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitting
needles
flaps
article
hem
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP09815664A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2331735A1 (de
Inventor
Ettore Lonati
Tiberio Lonati
Fausto Lonati
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Santoni SpA
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Santoni SpA
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Publication date
Application filed by Santoni SpA filed Critical Santoni SpA
Publication of EP2331735A1 publication Critical patent/EP2331735A1/de
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Publication of EP2331735B1 publication Critical patent/EP2331735B1/de
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for the production of a contoured article with hemmed flaps of knitting on a circular knitting machine for knitwear, hosiery or the like.
  • This production method is followed, for example, in the production of items of clothing such as body suits, underpants, tops or bras without lateral seams, and consists in producing, with the circular machine, an article that has a tubular portion with flaps of knitting that are provided in one piece with the tubular portion and protrude from one or both of the axial ends of the tubular portion.
  • the flaps of knitting that protrude from a same end of the tubular portion are then joined, generally by means of a sewing operation, in order to provide a shoulder strap, in the case of body suits or tops or bras, or to provide the crotch region in the case of underpants, or buttons or other detachable connection means for closing the crotch region in the case of body suits are applied thereto.
  • an article designed for the production of underpants is generally produced by providing initially a folded double hem by using only the needles of the cylinder of the circular knitting machine or by involving in the production of the folded double hem also the hooks of the dial or the needles of the bed of the machine in the case of machines with a cylinder and dial or with a cylinder and bed, thus providing a tubular portion of the article, and finally by providing two flaps of knitting as an extension of two diametrically opposite regions of the tubular portion.
  • the folded double hem is usually provided by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with a continuous rotary motion, i.e., in a same direction of rotation, as during the production of the tubular portion.
  • the two flaps of knitting can be produced by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with a continuous rotary motion or with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis.
  • the yarns used to provide the rows of knitting that compose the two flaps of knitting are cut during the production of the article at the lateral ends or hems of said flaps of knitting, or are kept floating in the region located between the two flaps of knitting and are cut subsequently.
  • This technique inevitably causes the presence of cut yarns at the sides that laterally delimit the flaps of knitting and therefore leads to a result which, in order to be acceptable from an aesthetic point of view, requires a subsequent hemming operation for finishing of the item.
  • the cyclic reversal of the direction of rotation of the needle cylinder, at the lateral ends of the flaps of knitting avoids the necessity of cutting the yarns and achieves, for the lateral ends of the flaps of knitting, a distinctly improved finish, although the flaps of knitting tend to roll up proximately to said lateral ends. For this reason, in this second case also, it is preferable to submit the item to a subsequent operation for hemming the flaps of knitting.
  • An article for the production of tops or bras is generally produced by providing a folded double hem and/or a tubular portion followed by the production of four flaps of knitting designed to be joined subsequently by sewing in order to provide the two shoulder straps of the top or bra.
  • the flaps of knitting as a continuation of the tubular portion can be provided by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with a continuous rotary motion in one direction of rotation or with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis, reversing the direction of rotation at the lateral ends of the various flaps of knitting.
  • the flaps of knitting have cut yarns at their lateral ends, or do not have cut yarns, as already described above with reference to the production of underpants.
  • An article for the production of body suits is generally produced by providing one or two pairs of flaps of knitting, depending on whether manufacturing is started from the lower part or from the upper part of the item, thus providing a tubular portion and ending with the formation of two pairs of flaps or of one pair of flaps of knitting.
  • the two flaps of knitting of each pair are designed to be joined by sewing in order to provide respectively the crotch and the two shoulder straps of the body suit.
  • the several flaps of knitting can be produced by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with a continuous rotary motion or with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis, as already described, with the result of having or not having cut yarns at the lateral ends of the flaps of knitting.
  • the sides of the flaps of knitting that in the finished item delimit the openings through which the legs, arms or neck of the user are inserted must be subjected to a hemming operation in order to conceal the cut yarns or prevent the roll-up of the flaps of knitting at such sides.
  • the hemming operation consists in applying, by sewing or by gluing, a border that must be produced separately.
  • the hemming operation requires time and the intervention of personnel, with the drawback of affecting significantly the overall production cost of such items.
  • GB-1.495.744 disclosed a method for hemming the flaps of knitting directly during the production of the article.
  • This method consists substantially in excluding some needles from knitting, so as to make the yarn float for a few stitches, proximately to the side to be hemmed, during the formation of some rows of knitting alternated with rows of knitting during which said needles form knitting.
  • the knitting formed by the needles when they are actuated folds or rather curls up providing the hem of the flap of knitting.
  • the folding or curling of the knitting in order to form the hem occurs in the direction of the rows of knitting, i.e., at right angles to the extension of the rows of knitting during their formation.
  • this method by varying the needles that cause the floating of the yam, as well as by varying the number of needles used to form a flap of knitting, it is possible to provide contoured and hemmed flaps of knitting.
  • this method suffers the drawback of limiting the possibilities of selection of the needles, used to form the hem, in order to obtain contoured portions or decorations of the hem due to the operations needed to make the yarn float during the execution of some rows of knitting.
  • the yarn that must be made to float to be elastically extensible and this, in view of a simplification in the execution of the hem, reduces however its dimensional stability over time.
  • the aim of the present invention is to devise a method for manufacturing a contoured article with hemmed flaps of knitting directly on the circular knitting machine for knitwear, hosiery and the like used for its production, which is capable of obviating the drawbacks cited above and of leading to results that are fully satisfactory both from a functional point of view and from an aesthetic point of view.
  • an object of the invention is to propose a method that makes it possible to obtain articles that can be used to produce items of knitting, particularly such as underpants, body suits, bras, tops, which do not require hemming operations at the sides that delimit the openings of the item of knitting.
  • Another object of the invention is to propose a method that makes it possible to reduce the overall production costs of items of knitting such as underpants, body suits, bras, tops or the like.
  • Another object of the invention is to propose a method that can be used on conventional modem knitting machines for knitwear or for hosiery.
  • a method for manufacturing a contoured article with hemmed flaps of knitting on a circular knitting machine for knitwear, hosiery or the like characterized in that it consists in primarily providing a folded double hem that is designed to hem the flaps of knitting of the contoured article to be produced and in providing said flaps of knitting of the article as an extension of said folded double hem.
  • the method according to the invention consists substantially in providing primarily a folded double hem 2, which is designed to hem the flaps of knitting 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b of the contoured article 1 to be produced and in providing the flaps of knitting 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b of the article 1 as an extension of this folded double hem 2.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic figure that does not reproduce a real condition of the article 1 but is deemed useful to illustrate the various steps of production of the article 1.
  • the areas designated by the letters A, B, C, D and delimited laterally by the sides of the flaps of knitting 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b do not exist, since the sides of the flaps of knitting 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b are connected directly to the folded double hem 2, as shown in Figure 2 .
  • the method according to the invention comprises a step X for providing a double folded edge 2, at least by means of all the needles of the needle cylinder of the machine that are designed to be used in the provision of the loops of knitting that will laterally delimit the flaps of knitting 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b to be hemmed of the article.
  • a step Y for providing the flaps of knitting 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b is performed, gradually increasing, row by row of knitting, the number of needles that are moved to knit at at least one feed or drop of the machine, so as to form knitting as a continuation of the last row of knitting of the folded double hem 2.
  • the article 1 is thus completed in a manner known per se and is unloaded from the machine.
  • the folded double hem 2 can be provided, in a manner known per se, by using simply the needles accommodated in the needle cylinder of the machine or by involving also the hooks or needles that are accommodated in the dial or bed that faces upward and coaxially the needle cylinder, in circular machines with a cylinder and a bed or dial.
  • the folded double hem 2 is obtained, in a manner known per se, by producing a preset number of rows of knitting by means of some needles that are alternated with other needles that are excluded temporarily from knitting and retain the last formed loop of knitting.
  • These needles temporarily excluded from knitting, after the other needles have produced a preset number of rows of knitting, which can vary with the height that one wishes to obtain for the folded double hem, are then returned to knitting together with the other needles so as to form a row of knitting that is engaged, with some of its loops of knitting, which are the loops of knitting formed by the needles previously excluded from knitting, with a previously formed row of knitting.
  • This engagement causes the folding, parallel to the extension of the rows of knitting, with an overlap of the knitting produced by the needles that were not excluded from knitting and therefore the formation of the folded double hem 2.
  • the hooks or needles are again extracted from the dial or bed and are inserted between the needles of the cylinder so that they can link with the loops of knitting, previously retained by the hooks or needles with the loops of knitting of one row of knitting after the end of the preset number of rows of knitting.
  • folding is produced parallel to the extension of the rows of knitting, with an overlap of the knitting produced by the needles during the engagement performed by the hooks of the dial or the needles of the bed, thus forming the folded double hem 2.
  • this second case it is possible to provide an initial portion of knitting in one-for-one needle selection which is alternated on two drops or feeds of the machine. Then two rows of plain knitting are produced with all the needles of the cylinder and then the hooks of the dial or the needles of the bed are loaded with a one-for-one or one-for-three selection on a row of knitting and then the hooks or needles are retracted into the dial or bed so that they retain the engaged loops of knitting.
  • this is also merely an example of practical embodiment of the folded double hem 2 using the needles of the cylinder and the hooks of the dial or the needles of the bed of a circular machine with cylinder and dial or cylinder and bed, among the many possibilities that are well-known to those skilled in the art.
  • step Y in which the flaps of knitting of the article are provided; their number can vary depending on the item to be produced.
  • two contoured flaps of knitting are produced by means of two groups of needles that are arranged in two diametrically opposite sectors of the needle cylinder and the number of needles moved to knit is changed depending on the shape of the flaps of knitting to be provided.
  • Each flap of knitting is produced by reversing cyclically the direction of rotation of the needle cylinder of the machine at the end of the production of a row of knitting by means of a group of needles accommodated in a sector of the needle cylinder.
  • the number of needles that in each instance are moved to knit during the production of a row of knitting can vary with the shape desired for the flap being provided and depending on any designs or aesthetic effects to be obtained on the flap of knitting.
  • the article is completed by producing a portion of tubular knitting, in a manner known per se, for example by using all the needles of the machine, and is left by the needles in order to be removed from the machine.
  • the portion of tubular knitting that is produced after the provision of the flaps of knitting can have different shapes depending on the expected destination of the article.
  • said tubular portion can comprise a portion with simple thickness and an end portion that is provided again as a folded double hem, elasticized adequately by means of the insertion of elastically deformable yarns, in order to provide the waistband of the underpants.
  • the portion of tubular knitting can simply consist of a folded double hem.
  • Step Z in which a portion of tubular knitting 5 is produced.
  • Step Z can comprise a final step Z', if required, in which a final folded double hem 6 is provided in a manner that is similar to what has already been described.
  • the article is designed to be used to produce a body, after the provision of the tubular portion and before the unloading of the article from the machine, two flaps of knitting are produced in order to provide the crotch of the body, if the production of the article has started from its upper end, or four flaps of knitting, or more precisely two pairs of flaps of knitting, in order to provide the shoulder straps, if the production of the article has started from its lower end.
  • the length of the folded double hem 2 provided initially to the total length of the lateral perimeter of the flaps of knitting 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b to which it is progressively joined during the production of the article, the length of the loops of knitting in the production of said double folded edge can be increased adequately so as to promote the longitudinal extensibility of the folded double hem 2 and/or it is possible to use elastic yarns with the same purpose.
  • the folded double hem 2 is composed of rows of knitting produced in succession and is folded along a direction that is parallel to the extension of the rows of knitting, it is possible to provide lettering or designs during the formation of said hem.
  • Another advantage of the method according to the invention is that it is possible to use hems with different aesthetic shapes by using, in a manner known per se, various needle selections, since there are no limitations arising from the need to provide floating stitches, as instead occurs with the method described in prior patent GB-1.495.744 .
  • the knitted item is completed by mutually joining, for example by sewing, the ends of the mutually opposite flaps.
  • the ends of the two flaps are joined, thus providing the crotch of the underpants.
  • the ends of the four upper flaps are joined two by two, thus providing the shoulder straps of the body, and buttons or other detachable connection means of a known type are applied to the ends of the two lower flaps for closure of the crotch of the body suit.
  • the ends of the four flaps 3a, 3b, 4a, 4b are joined two by two, thus providing the shoulder straps of the top or bra.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Claims (6)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines konturierten Artikels mit gesäumten Stricklaschen auf einer Rundstrickmaschine für Strickwaren, Maschenwaren und dergleichen, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es die Schritte umfasst, zuerst einen doppelt gefalteten Saum (2) bereitzustellen, um die Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b) des herzustellenden konturierten Artikels (1) zu säumen, und Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b) des Artikels (1) als Fortführung des doppelt gefalteten Saums (2) bereitzustellen.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es umfasst:
    einen Schritt (X) zum Bereitstellen eines doppelt gefalteten Saums (2) zumindest durch alle Nadeln des Nadelzylinders der Maschine, die vorgesehen sind zur Herstellung der Strickschlaufen, die die zu säumenden Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b) des Artikels (1) seitlich begrenzen;
    einen Schritt (Y) zum Bereitstellen der Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b), indem reihenweise die Anzahl der Nadeln, die zum Stricken bewegt werden, erhöht wird, so dass ein Strickvorgang stattfindet als Fortführung der letzten Strickreihe des doppelt gefalteten Saums (2);
    einen Schritt (Z, Z') zur Fertigstellung der Produktion des Artikels (1);
    einen Schritt zum Entnehmen des Artikels (1) von der Maschine.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der doppelt gefaltete Saum (2) bereitgestellt wird indem:
    die Strickschlaufen einer der ersten Strickreihen, die von den Nadeln erzeugt werden, durch die Haken der Einstellscheibe oder die Nadeln des Maschinenbetts, die sich zwischen den aktiven Nadeln im Nadelzylinder befinden, gehalten werden;
    Herstellen einer festgelegten Anzahl von Strickreihen mit Hilfe der Nadeln zur Fortführung der anfänglich gebildeten Strickschlaufen;
    aus Strickschlaufen, die zuvor von den Haken der Einstellscheibe oder durch die Nadeln des Bettes gehalten wurden, mit den Schlaufen einer Strickreihe Schlaufen zu bilden, die nach Beendigung einer festgelegten Anzahl von Strickreihen folgt.
  4. Verfahren nach Ansprüchen 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der doppelt gefaltete Saum (2) bereitgestellt wird durch:
    abwechselndes Ausschließen beim Stricken den Teil der besagten Nadeln und die Nadeln, die aktiv bleiben;
    Halten der letzten Strickschlaufe, die durch die Nadeln gebildet wird, die vom Strickvorgang ausgeschlossen sind;
    Bereitstellen einer festgelegten Anzahl von Strickreihen durch die Nadeln, die aktiv bleiben;
    Wiederverwenden der Nadeln, die zuvor nicht am Strickvorgang beteiligt waren, zur Bildung mindestens einer Strickreihe zusammen mit den Nadeln, die zuvor aktiv waren.
  5. Verfahren nach einem oder mehreren der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b) durch zyklisches Invertieren der Rotationsrichtung des Nadelzylinders der Maschine am Ende der Herstellung einer Strickreihe durch eine Gruppe von Nadeln, die in einem Bereich des Nadelzylinders untergebracht ist, hergestellt werden.
  6. Ein Strickartikel, insbesondere für die Herstellung von gestrickten Bekleidungsartikeln wie beispielsweise, Unterhosen, Bodies, Oberteilen, BHs und dergleichen, umfassend einen schlauchförmigen Strickteil (5, 6) mit Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b), die aus mindestens einem axialen Ende des schlauchförmigen Strickteils herausragen, wobei die Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b) entlang ihrer perimetrischen Seiten einen Saum aufweisen, der als ein Stück mit den Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b) ausgebildet ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Saum aus einem doppelt gefalteten Saum (2) besteht, der aus Strickreihen zusammengesetzt ist, die nacheinander gestrickt werden und entlang einer Linie gefaltet ist, die parallel zu den Strickreihen angeordnet ist, die den doppelt gefalteten Saum (2) bilden, wobei die Stricklaschen (3a, 3b, 4a, 4b) eine Fortführung des doppelt gefalteten Saums (2) sind.
EP09815664A 2008-09-23 2009-09-11 Verfahren zur herstellung eines konturierten artikels mit gesäumten stricklaschen auf einer rundstrickmaschine für strickwaren, maschenwaren und dergleichen Not-in-force EP2331735B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITMI2008A001687A IT1391248B1 (it) 2008-09-23 2008-09-23 Procedimento per la produzione di un manufatto sagomato con lembi di maglia bordati su una macchina circolare per maglieria, calzetteria o simile.
PCT/EP2009/061823 WO2010034631A1 (en) 2008-09-23 2009-09-11 Method for the production of a contoured article with hemmed flaps of knitting, on a circular knitting machine for knitwear, hosiery or the like

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2331735A1 EP2331735A1 (de) 2011-06-15
EP2331735B1 true EP2331735B1 (de) 2013-01-30

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP09815664A Not-in-force EP2331735B1 (de) 2008-09-23 2009-09-11 Verfahren zur herstellung eines konturierten artikels mit gesäumten stricklaschen auf einer rundstrickmaschine für strickwaren, maschenwaren und dergleichen

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2331735B1 (de)
KR (1) KR20110060908A (de)
CN (1) CN102187027B (de)
IT (1) IT1391248B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2010034631A1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105483921A (zh) * 2015-12-18 2016-04-13 江南大学 一种双针床横机上满针编织全成形毛衫的方法

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA2988003C (en) 2015-06-03 2022-07-19 Lululemon Athletica Canada Inc. Knit bra and method of manufacture thereof
CN112267198B (zh) * 2020-11-06 2024-04-16 广东德润纺织有限公司 一种纬编罗纹结构再生环保方便面泳衣面料及生产工艺

Family Cites Families (7)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH565266A5 (de) * 1972-02-28 1975-08-15 Arndt Werner
GB1495744A (en) * 1974-04-25 1977-12-21 Ridley Spriggs & Johnson Knitted garments
IT1228731B (it) * 1989-03-16 1991-07-03 Lonati Spa Procedimento per l'esecuzione di un manufatto semilavorato con macchine circolari per maglieria a piu' alimentazioni,in particolare per la produzione di magliette, body, mutande o simili.
IT1305843B1 (it) * 1998-09-10 2001-05-16 Franco Sciacca Metodo o apparecchiatura per la produzione di articoli tridimensionalie o conformati di miglieria e calzetteria tubolare,preferibilmente
US6178784B1 (en) * 1999-05-21 2001-01-30 Alba-Waldensian, Inc. Knit criss-cross brassiere, blank and method for making same
ITCO990031A1 (it) * 1999-11-15 2001-05-15 Franco Sciacca Metodo ed apparecchiatura per la produzione di articoli tridimensionali di maglieria e calzetteria e prodotti risultanti.
ITCO20040004A1 (it) * 2004-02-13 2004-05-13 Franco Sciacca Metodo e attrezzatura per la produzione di articoli di maglieria aventi il bordo - costa a margine di maglia rasata e prodotti risultanti

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105483921A (zh) * 2015-12-18 2016-04-13 江南大学 一种双针床横机上满针编织全成形毛衫的方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
KR20110060908A (ko) 2011-06-08
EP2331735A1 (de) 2011-06-15
CN102187027B (zh) 2014-01-01
CN102187027A (zh) 2011-09-14
ITMI20081687A1 (it) 2010-03-23
IT1391248B1 (it) 2011-12-01
WO2010034631A1 (en) 2010-04-01

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