EP2324819B1 - Gefärbte Parfum-Zusammensetzung enthaltend einen hydrophilen UVA-Filter ohne Alkyl Diphenylacrylat - Google Patents

Gefärbte Parfum-Zusammensetzung enthaltend einen hydrophilen UVA-Filter ohne Alkyl Diphenylacrylat Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2324819B1
EP2324819B1 EP10189860.9A EP10189860A EP2324819B1 EP 2324819 B1 EP2324819 B1 EP 2324819B1 EP 10189860 A EP10189860 A EP 10189860A EP 2324819 B1 EP2324819 B1 EP 2324819B1
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Prior art keywords
composition
formula
alkyl
chosen
inclusive
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EP10189860.9A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2324819A3 (de
EP2324819A2 (de
Inventor
Willy Thfoin
Boris Grimal
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from FR0958183A external-priority patent/FR2952532B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR0958181A external-priority patent/FR2952536B1/fr
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Publication of EP2324819A2 publication Critical patent/EP2324819A2/de
Publication of EP2324819A3 publication Critical patent/EP2324819A3/de
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

Definitions

  • a perfume is the combination of different odorous substances that evaporate at different times.
  • Each perfume has what is called a “head note” which is the odor that diffuses first when applying the perfume or when opening the container containing it, a “heart or body note” that corresponds to the complete perfume (emission for a few hours after the "top note”) and a “bottom note” which is the most persistent odor (emission for several hours after the "heart note”).
  • the persistence of the heart note and the base note corresponds to the persistence of the perfume.
  • the human being has always sought to perfume and perfume the objects that surround him or the places in which he is, and this, both to mask strong and / or unpleasant odors that to give a good smell .
  • perfume in a number of products or compositions, in particular cosmetic and dermatological such as fresh water, toilet water, perfume water, aftershave lotions, care waters.
  • cosmetic and dermatological such as fresh water, toilet water, perfume water, aftershave lotions, care waters.
  • the juice of the perfumes is colored by adding an effective amount of soluble dye in the support of the formulation (usually alcoholic or hydroalcoholic) rather than dyeing or lacquering the bottle which is a more industrial operation. expensive.
  • the color developed in these scented formulations must remain stable both in time and exposed to light.
  • a filter system and / or an antioxidant system is generally added.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the perfuming of human keratin materials and in particular the skin, the lips, the hair, the scalp, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the nails or a garment comprising the application to the materials keratin or said garment of the composition as defined above.
  • the invention also relates to the use of at least one benzotriazole silicone of formula (I), as stabilizing agent for the organoleptic properties of a colored perfuming cosmetic composition with respect to external aggressions, in particular of light or differences in temperature, in particular the color and / or the odor of said composition; said composition not containing alkyl ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate compound or ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate alkyl compound.
  • perfume composition any composition leaving after application on ketatinic materials a perfume.
  • perfumeing substance any perfume or aroma likely to perfume the skin and human keratin materials in general including the skin, the hair, the scalp, the lips; nails.
  • human keratin materials means the skin (face, body, lips, inner eyelids), the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the mucous membranes.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium in the composition of the invention means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials including the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the scalp and the eyelashes. , eyebrows.
  • ⁇ By not containing a compound ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate alkyl or alkyl ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate as containing less than 0.2% by weight of compound ⁇ , ⁇ '- alkyl diphenylacrylate or ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate of alkyl or even less than 0.1% by weight or even free of compound ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate or alkyl ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ compound, ⁇ Alkyl diphenyl acrylate.
  • the silicon derivatives used in the context of the present invention belong to the general family of benzotriazole silicones which is described in particular in EP-A-0660701 .
  • the attachment of the - (X) m - (CH 2 ) p -CH (Z) -CH 2 - linkage on the benzotriazole unit which thus ensures the connection of said benzotriazole unit to the silicon atom of the silicone chain, may, according to the present invention, be in all available positions offered by the two aromatic rings of benzotriazole:
  • this attachment is at position 3, 4, 5 (aromatic ring bearing the hydroxy function) or 4 '(benzene ring adjacent the triazole ring), and even more preferably in position 3, 4 or 5.
  • the attachment is in position 3.
  • the attachment of the substituent unit (s) Y can take place in all the other positions available within benzotriazole. However, preferably, this attachment is in position 3, 4, 4 ', 5 and / or 6. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the attachment of the Y pattern is in position 5.
  • the alkyl radicals may be linear or branched and chosen in particular from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl radicals.
  • R 7 are the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-octyl and 2-ethylhexyl radicals. Even more preferably, the R 7 radicals are all methyl radicals.
  • a family of benzotriazole silicones that are particularly suitable for the invention is that defined by the following general formula (7): with 0 ⁇ r ⁇ 10, 1 ⁇ S ⁇ 10, and where E represents the divalent radical:
  • the benzotriazole silicone is the compound Drometzole Trisiloxane (CTFA name) corresponding to the following formula:
  • the benzotriazole-functional silicon derivative may be present in the compositions according to the invention at contents ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1%, by weight, always relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Fragrances are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969) ), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960 ) and in " Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991 ", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III .
  • It can be natural products (essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes) and / or synthetic (terpene or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic).
  • an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation of water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression).
  • the essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition.
  • essential oil / vegetable raw material can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.
  • the essential oil is obtained by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part.
  • Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of production.
  • This method of production only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) By mechanical processes at ambient temperature.
  • the principle of the method is as follows: the zests are dilacerated and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been ruptured are recovered by a physical process.
  • the conventional method consists in exerting under a stream of water an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit. After removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial plants actually allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.
  • Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water.
  • perfuming substances are in particular: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalol , citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, propionate citronellyl, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethyl
  • a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which generate in common a pleasant note for the user.
  • the perfumes are preferably chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and background) in the following families the hesperidae, aromatics, floral notes the spicy ones, the woodlands investigatings the chypre, ferns leather. musks
  • the perfuming compositions of the invention preferably contain from 2% to 40% by weight of perfuming substance, better still from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium according to the present invention preferably contains at least one volatile alcohol and / or a volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally water.
  • the medium of the composition contains water in an amount ranging preferably from 0.01% to 50% and more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • volatile is intended to mean any molecule capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile compound (s) of the invention are liquid at ambient temperature, have a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm). Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
  • Volatile alcohol means any compound having at least one hydroxyl group and in which more than 95% by weight of the compound is capable of being evaporated in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg) in contact with a keratin material such as skin or hair.
  • the volatile alcohols according to the present invention are preferably chosen from lower C 1 -C 5 monoalcohols may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol and the like. butanol and more particularly ethanol.
  • Their viscosity at 20 ° C., measured with a HAAKE Rheostress 600 apparatus with a 60 mm diameter rotor, an angle of 2 ° at a shear rate of 200 s -1 is preferably 0.3 to 3 mPa.s. .
  • the volatile alcohol (s) are preferably present in amounts ranging from 40 to 80% and more preferably in amounts ranging from 55 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • volatile silicone oils mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 6 centistokes (6.10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile silicone oil or oils are present preferably from 10 to 80% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from oils hydrocarbons having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4, 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C 8 -C 16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used.
  • the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
  • a volatile linear alkane will be used as hydrocarbon oil.
  • composition according to the invention contains one or more volatile linear alkane (s).
  • one or more volatile linear alkane (s) is meant indifferently “one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)”.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is meant a linear cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg, ie 101,325 Pa), liquid at ambient temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and pressure. atmospheric (760 mmHg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg).
  • the rate of evaporation of a volatile alkane according to the invention may in particular be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413 , and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.
  • the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the hydrocarbon solvent. volatile, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer.
  • a fan PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute
  • the mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals.
  • the evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg / cm 2 ) as a function of time (in minutes). Then we calculate the evaporation rate that corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2 ) and per unit of time (minute).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.3 Pa. at 6000 Pa.
  • a non-zero vapor pressure also called saturated vapor pressure
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C.).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C.).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C.
  • the flash point is measured according to ISO 3679.
  • an alkane that is suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for the invention exhibit an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature. (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
  • the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isotope 14 C of the carbon (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 14 C may be present in a ratio 14 C / 12 C greater than or equal to 1.10 -16 , preferably greater than or equal to 1.10 -15 , more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10 -14 , and better still greater than or equal to 1.5.10 -13 .
  • the 14 C / 12 C ratio is from 6.10 -13 to 1.2 ⁇ 10 -12 .
  • the amount of 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or still Accelerator Mass Spectrometry.
  • Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
  • alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371 , or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.
  • linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C 7 ), n-octane (C 8 ), n-nonane (C 9 ) and n-decane ( C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company.
  • the volatile linear alkane alone can be used.
  • a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1.
  • a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2.
  • a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of alkanes is used.
  • mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 7 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.
  • the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.
  • a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.
  • the mixture of alkanes is a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.
  • such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO2008 / 155059 .
  • the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL.
  • n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL.
  • n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used.
  • composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in the field of perfumes chosen in particular from antioxidants, fatty substances such as oils (vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils such as esters, perfluoroethers), active ingredients cosmetic or dermatological products such as emollients or softeners such as sweet almond oils, apricot kernel, moisturizing agents such as glycerin, soothing agents such as ⁇ -bisabolol, allantoin, aloes vera; vitamins and their derivatives, essential fatty acids, insect repellents, propellants, peptizers, fillers, co-solvents, UV filters other than those which hydrophilic UVA filters, stabilizers or preservatives, dyes, nacres, glitter and mixtures thereof.
  • these additives may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% and better still from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • cosolvents that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of octyldodecanol, tri-ethylcitrate, dicaprylylcarbonate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate and palmitate, and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise soluble dyes in the support of said composition
  • the soluble dye (s) according to the invention are preferably present in amounts ranging from 10 -5 to 1% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 -4 to 0.1% of the total weight of the composition. total weight of the composition.
  • Perfume color stabilizers include Tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate such as product sold under the name "TINOGUARD Q" by CIBA-GEIGY, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate as the product sold under the name "TINOGUARD HS” by CIBA-GEIGY; Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-Cresol as the product sold under the name "TINOGUARD TL" by CIBA-GEIGY. as the product sold under the trade name "CIBAFAST H LIQUID” by the company CIBA-GEIGY. Bumetrizole as the product sold under the name "TINOGUARD AS" by the company CIBA-GEIGY.
  • At least one additional antioxidant and / or at least one peptizing agent will be used in order to improve the clarity of the composition and / or to reduce or even eliminate the cold precipitation phenomena that may be caused by certain perfumes and / or improve the stability of the composition during storage.
  • antioxidants mention may be made, for example, of BHA (tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole), BHT (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), tocopherols such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate. They are used at concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • peptizers which can be used according to the invention, use will more particularly be made of hydrogenated castor oil which is oxyethylenated with 60 moles of ethylene oxide: INCI name: PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL as the products sold under the trade names CREMOPHOR RH60 or CREMOPHOR C040. by BASF. They are used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2 times the concentration of perfume concentrate relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the invention applies not only to perfuming products but also to care products, skin treatment, including scalp, and lips, containing an odoriferous substance.
  • the composition according to the invention may thus constitute a composition for perfuming, caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular be in the form of fresh water, eau de toilette, eau de perfume, lotion afterwards. shaving, care water, silicone or hydrosilicone care oil. It can also be in the form of a scented bi-phasic lotion (eau de toilette phase / hydrocarbon oil phase and / or silicone oil).
  • composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the field of perfume formulations.
  • compositions according to the invention may be packaged in the form of flasks.
  • the perfuming composition of the invention can be diffused according to different systems such as sprays, aerosols, piezoelectric devices.
  • the devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include pump-bottles or “sprays", aerosol containers comprising a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in the patents US 4,077,441 and US 4,850,517 .
  • the aerosol-conditioned compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane and propane.
  • the perfume compositions are preferably transparent. Their transparency is measured by a turbidity ranging from 1 to 200 NTU and preferably from 10 to 90 NTU turbidity measured at 24 hours to the portable turbidimeter HACH - Model 2100 P.
  • compositions according to the invention are, according to a particular form of the invention, lotions and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 10 to 120 UD and more preferably from 30 to 120 UD, still more preferably from 40 to 80 UD; the viscosity being measured at Rheomat TVe-05, at 25 ° C, rotational speed 200 rpm, mobile 1, 10 min.
  • These low viscosities make it possible to condition the compositions of the invention by means of mechanical or propellant pressurizing devices so as to be applied in the form of fine particles (vaporization).
  • the color variation of the toilet water after 16 hours of suntest is evaluated by the eye, but also by the spectrocolorimeter by ⁇ E, which corresponds to the root of the squared squares of the L * a * b * values of the spectrocolorimeter.
  • ⁇ E corresponds to the root of the squared squares of the L * a * b * values of the spectrocolorimeter. The higher the ⁇ E value, the greater the color degradation.

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Claims (12)

  1. Gefärbte Parfümierungszusammensetzung, umfassend in einem kosmetisch unbedenklichen Medium:
    a) mindestens 2 Gew.-% einer Parfümierungssubstanz, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung;
    b) mindestens ein Benzotriazolsilikon der folgenden Formel (1):

            O(3-a)/2Si(R)a-G     (1)

    worin:
    - R für einen gegebenenfalls halogenierten C1-C10-Alkylrest oder einen Phenylrest oder einen Trimethylsilyloxyrest steht,
    - a für eine ganze Zahl steht, die zwischen 0 und 3 inklusive ausgewählt ist,
    - und das Symbol G für einen einwertigen Rest steht, der direkt an ein Siliciumatom gebunden ist und der folgenden Formel (2) entspricht:
    Figure imgb0015
    worin:
    - die Variablen Y gleich oder verschieden sind und aus C1-C8-Alkylresten, Halogenen und C1-C4-Alkoxy-resten ausgewählt sind, mit der Maßgabe, dass in diesem letzteren Fall zwei benachbarte Y an demselben aromatischen Kern zusammen eine Alkylidendioxygruppe bilden können, wobei die Alkylidengruppe 1 bis 2 Kohlenstoffatome enthält,
    - X für O oder NH steht,
    - Z für Wasserstoff oder einen C1-C4-Alkylrest steht,
    - n für eine ganze Zahl zwischen 0 und 3 inklusive steht,
    - m für 0 oder 1 steht,
    - p für eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 inklusive steht;
    c) mindestens ein in dem Medium lösliches Farbmittel; wobei die Zusammensetzung keine β,β'-Diphenylacrylsäurealkylesterverbindung oder α-Cyano-β,β'-diphenylacrylsäurealkylesterverbindung enthält.
  2. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, wobei das siliciumhaltige Benzotriazolderivat der Formel (I) aus den Verbindungen ausgewählt ist, die den folgenden Formeln (5) oder (6) entsprechen:
    Figure imgb0016
     oder
    Figure imgb0017
     worin:
    - die Variablen R7 gleich oder verschieden sind und aus C1-C10-Alkyl-, Phenyl-, Trifluor-3,3,3-propyl-und Trimethylsilyloxyresten ausgewählt sind, wobei zahlenmäßig mindestens 80% der Reste R7 für Methyl stehen,
    - die Variablen D gleich oder verschieden sind und aus den Resten R7 und dem Rest G ausgewählt sind,
    - r für eine ganze Zahl zwischen 0 und 50 inklusive steht und s für eine ganze Zahl zwischen 0 und 20 inklusive steht und im Fall von s = 0 mindestens eines der beiden Symbole D für G steht,
    - u für eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 6 inklusive steht und t für eine ganze Zahl zwischen 0 und 10 inklusive steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass t + u größer gleich 3 ist,
    - und das Symbol G der obigen Formel (2) entspricht.
  3. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 2, wobei das siliciumhaltige Benzotriazolderivat der Formel (I) aus den Verbindungen ausgewählt ist, die der Formel (5) entsprechen.
  4. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 2 oder 3, wobei das siliciumhaltige Benzotriazolderivat der Formel (I) aus den Verbindungen ausgewählt ist, die der Formel (5) entsprechen, für die die Reste D beide für R7-Reste stehen.
  5. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 2 bis 4, wobei das siliciumhaltige Benzotriazolderivat der Formel (5) mindestens eine und noch weiter bevorzugt alle der folgenden Eigenschaften aufweist:
    - D steht für einen R7-Rest,
    - R7 steht für Alkyl und noch weiter bevorzugt für Methyl,
    - r liegt zwischen 0 und 15 inklusive; s liegt zwischen 1 und 10 inklusive,
    - n ist nicht 0 und vorzugsweise gleich 1, und Y ist dann aus Methyl, tert.-Butyl oder C1-C4-Alkoxy ausgewählt,
    - Z steht für Wasserstoff oder Methyl,
    - m = 0 oder [m = 1 und X = O],
    - p ist gleich 1.
  6. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, wobei die Verbindung der Formel (1) aus den Verbindungen ausgewählt ist, die der folgenden Formel (7) entsprechen:
    Figure imgb0018
     mit 0 ≤ r ≤ 10, 1 ≤ s ≤ 10 ,
    Figure imgb0019
    und wobei E für den folgenden zweiwertigen Rest steht:
    Figure imgb0020
  7. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 6, wobei es sich bei der Verbindung der Formel (7) um die Verbindung Drometrizole Trisiloxane handelt, die der folgenden Formel entspricht:
    Figure imgb0021
  8. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, außerdem umfassend mindestens ein Additiv, das aus Antioxidantien, Fettsubstanzen wie Ölen (pflanzlichen, mineralischen oder synthetischen Ölen wie Estern oder Perfluorethern), kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Wirkstoffen wie beispielsweise Emollientien oder zartmachenden Mitteln wie Süßmandelöl oder Aprikosenkernöl, Feuchtigkeitsmitteln wie Glycerin, Verdickungsmitteln wie α-Bisabolol, Allantoin oder Aloe vera; Vitaminen und deren Derivaten, essenziellen Fettsäuren, Schutzmitteln gegen Insekten, Treibmitteln, Peptisierungsmitteln, Füllstoffen, Cosolventien, UV-Schutzmitteln, die von denjenigen der Formel (1) verschieden sind, Stabilisatoren oder Konservierungsmitteln, Farbmitteln, Perlmutt, Glitzerplättchen und Mischungen davon ausgewählt ist.
  9. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, die in Form eines Eau fraîche, eines Eau de Toilette, eines Eau de Parfum, einer Aftershave-Lotion, eines Pflegewassers, eines gegebenenfalls Wasser enthaltenden Silikonpflegeöls oder einer parfümierten zweiphasigen Lotion vorliegt.
  10. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, die in Form einer Flasche oder in mit Druck beaufschlagter Form in einem Spray, einem Aerosol oder einer piezoelektrischen Vorrichtung abgepackt ist.
  11. Verfahren zur Parfümierung von menschlichen Keratinmaterialien oder einem Kleidungsstück, bei dem man auf die Keratinmaterialien bzw. das Kleidungsstück die Zusammensetzung gemäß den Ansprüchen 1 bis 10 aufbringt.
  12. Verwendung mindestens eines Benzotriazolsilikonderivats der Formel (I) gemäß einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Mittel zur Stabilisierung der organoleptischen Eigenschaften einer gefärbten parfümierenden kosmetischen Zusammensetzung gegenüber Angriffen von außen, insbesondere Licht oder Temperaturdifferenzen, insbesondere der Farbe und/oder des Geruchs der Zusammensetzung; wobei die Zusammensetzung keine β,β'-Diphenylacrylsäurealkylesterverbindung oder α-Cyano-β,β'-diphenylacrylsäurealkylesterverbindung enthält.
EP10189860.9A 2009-11-19 2010-11-03 Gefärbte Parfum-Zusammensetzung enthaltend einen hydrophilen UVA-Filter ohne Alkyl Diphenylacrylat Active EP2324819B1 (de)

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FR0958183A FR2952532B1 (fr) 2009-11-19 2009-11-19 Composition parfumante coloree sans diphenylacrylate d'alkyle contenant un filtre uva hydrophile
FR0958181A FR2952536B1 (fr) 2009-11-19 2009-11-19 Composition parfumante coloree sans diphenylacrylate d'alkyle contenant une silicone benzotriazole

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EP2324819A3 (de) 2011-08-17
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BRPI1004512B1 (pt) 2017-06-06
US9433568B2 (en) 2016-09-06
CN102100644A (zh) 2011-06-22
ES2548147T3 (es) 2015-10-14
US20120148508A1 (en) 2012-06-14
BRPI1004512A2 (pt) 2013-03-05
RU2462229C2 (ru) 2012-09-27
CN102100644B (zh) 2018-05-25

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