EP2193779A1 - Hautbleichmittel - Google Patents

Hautbleichmittel Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2193779A1
EP2193779A1 EP08021156A EP08021156A EP2193779A1 EP 2193779 A1 EP2193779 A1 EP 2193779A1 EP 08021156 A EP08021156 A EP 08021156A EP 08021156 A EP08021156 A EP 08021156A EP 2193779 A1 EP2193779 A1 EP 2193779A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
alkyl
acid
hydrogen
methyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP08021156A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Thomas Markert
Andreas Rathjens
Philippe Moussou
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cognis IP Management GmbH
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Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cognis IP Management GmbH filed Critical Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority to EP08021156A priority Critical patent/EP2193779A1/de
Priority to US13/132,680 priority patent/US20110236326A1/en
Priority to ES09771299.6T priority patent/ES2545786T3/es
Priority to KR1020117012812A priority patent/KR20110091530A/ko
Priority to PCT/EP2009/008463 priority patent/WO2010063415A1/en
Priority to CN200980148275.7A priority patent/CN102238936B/zh
Priority to EP09771299.6A priority patent/EP2352486B1/de
Priority to JP2011538881A priority patent/JP5781936B2/ja
Publication of EP2193779A1 publication Critical patent/EP2193779A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/16—Amides, e.g. hydroxamic acids
    • A61K31/17—Amides, e.g. hydroxamic acids having the group >N—C(O)—N< or >N—C(S)—N<, e.g. urea, thiourea, carmustine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/18—Antioxidants, e.g. antiradicals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to 1-amino-3-phenylurea and its derivatives for use in cosmetics, especially for skin whitening and/or against the signs of aging skin.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of such substances for the treatment of disorders related to the pigmentation of the skin.
  • Hyperpigmentation diseases include, for example, chloasma (a hypersecretion of melanin induced by hormonam factors and amplified by the effects of sun exposure), lentigines, solar and senile lentigo, Dubreuilh melanosis, melasma, or any form of hypermelanosis or melanocyte dysfunction.
  • Skin hyperpigmentation such as spots, freckles, and liver spots are caused by sunburn and the like. It increases or becomes harder to fade with aging, a problem which annoys in particular the middle aged and older. Such pigmentation, for which the mechanism is yet to be established, is believed to be caused by inflammation of the skin as induced by sunlight (in particular, ultraviolet rays) or the like.
  • the melanin pigment is produced in the melanin-producing granule, which is called melanosome, in the melanocytes present in the epidermis and is delivered to adjacent epidermal cells.
  • hydroquinone Several compounds are known in the cosmetic industry to be used to decrease skin pigmentation, such as hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid or its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, some plant extracts such as Morus alba extracts or Glycyrrhiza glabra.
  • these products may be cytotoxic, poor efficacy, difficult to use in formulation due to instability, or dark color impact.
  • kojic acid is unstable in cosmetic formulations leading to dark-brown products.
  • the use of hydroquinone is forbidden in cosmetics.
  • the finding of the present invention is to use 1-amino-3-phenylurea or its derivatives or their salts for skin whitening and/or reduction of pigmentation.
  • the substances of formula (I) or the salts thereof decrease the synthesis of melanin in melanocytes without cell toxicity.
  • the cosmetic compositions comprising said substances can improve skin pigmentation and can be used in particular for whitening and/or lightening cosmetics and/or can prevent pigmentation and/or can inhibit melanogenesis in the skin.
  • the present invention relates, in particular, to the use of the substance of formula (I) as a melanogenesis inhibitor and/or whitening agent.
  • lightening of the skin and “whitening of the skin” indicate in particular the effect achieved by the substance of formula (I). Accordingly, “lightening” or “whitening” preferably stands for the change in the color of the skin to a color which is lighter compared to the state before treatment with the substance of formula (I) according to the invention.
  • the use of the substance according to formula (I) thus preferably encompasses the removal or reduction of pigmentation, e.g. of spots and/or of freckles, of hyperpigmentation which might be caused by exaggerated sun exposure but also the lightening of the cited pigments, e.g. changing the skin tone to a lighter one or lightening of freckles, etc.
  • reduction indicates that the amount of pigments, such as spots, freckles, and/or liver spots, preferably melanin in the skin, is reduced compared to the skin before having been treated with a substance according to formula (I) according to the present invention.
  • Melanogenesis is the production and delivery of melanin by melanocytes in human skin. It is (mainly) stimulated by UV radiation, and it leads to a delayed development of a tan. This melanogenesis-based tan takes more time to develop but is long lasting than immediate sun-tanning. Accordingly, inhibition of melanogenesis of the skin is preferably understood as the prevention of melanin synthesis or at least a suppression of melanin synthesis. Suppression in this context means the decrease of melanin synthesis by melanocytes of at least 10%, more preferably at least 20%, yet more preferably at least 50%, still yet more preferably at least 80%, like about 100%, in the skin compared to a skin not treated with the substance according to formula (I) according to this invention.
  • Pigmentation disorders and or hyperpigmentation diseases according to this invention include disorders or diseases which exhibit an abnormal melanogenesis. It includes in particular chloasma (a hypersecretion of melanin induced by hormonam factors and amplified by the effects of sun exposure), lentigines, solar and senile lentigo, Dubreuilh melanosis, melasma, or any form of hypermelanosis or melanocyte dysfunction.
  • chloasma a hypersecretion of melanin induced by hormonam factors and amplified by the effects of sun exposure
  • lentigines a hypersecretion of melanin induced by hormonam factors and amplified by the effects of sun exposure
  • solar and senile lentigo Dubreuilh melanosis
  • melasma or any form of hypermelanosis or melanocyte dysfunction.
  • Prevention and/or retardation of signs of aging mean, in particular, that the use of the substance according to formula (I) inhibits or delays (postpones) skin aging, preferably skin aging in the form of formation of age spots, brown spots, and/or liver spots, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and/or loss of skin elasticity compared to a non-treated, aged skin.
  • “Improving the skin appearance of the aged skin” is preferably understood as the improved visual appearance of skin, in particular, the reduction of age spots, brown spots, liver spots, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and/or loss of skin elasticity, compared to a non-treated, aged skin.
  • Preferred substances of formula (I) are those wherein
  • the substance according to formula (I) can be used alone or together with other known agents used in the technical field of the present invention. Accordingly the substances according to formula (I) can be used together with at least one member selected from the group consisting of kojic acid, hydroquinone, alpha- and beta-arbutin, other hydroquinone glycosides, deoxyarbutin, ferulic acid, diacetyl-boldine, azelaic acid, octadecenedioic acid, linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, alpha-lipoic acid, glutathione and derivatives, undecylenoyl-phenylalanine, vitamin C and derivatives as magnesium L-ascorbyl-phosphate, niacinamide, 4-n-butyl-resorcinol, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, ellagic acid, resveratrol, Morus alba extracts, glabridin and liquorice extracts, imper
  • the present invention is further directed to the substance according to formula (I) as defined in the present invention for the treatment of a disease connected to a disorder in the pigmentation of the skin. More preferably, the substance according to formula (I) as defined in the present invention is directed to a disease exhibiting an abnormal melanin synthesis and/or secretion, like chloasma (a hypersecretion of melanin induced by hormonam factors and amplified by the effects of sun exposure), lentigines, solar and senile lentigo, Dubreuilh melanosis, melasma, or any form of hypermelanosis or melanocyte dysfunction.
  • chloasma a hypersecretion of melanin induced by hormonam factors and amplified by the effects of sun exposure
  • lentigines solar and senile lentigo
  • Dubreuilh melanosis melasma
  • any form of hypermelanosis or melanocyte dysfunction or
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition and/or a topical composition comprising the substance according to formula (I) or a salt thereof as defined in the instant invention.
  • the cosmetic composition and/or the topical composition may comprise the substance according to formula (I) of the present invention in an amount of 0.0001-10 wt.%, more preferably 0.003-5% based on the total amount of the composition.
  • cosmetics includes medicated cosmetics such as dermatological preparations, ointments, solutions, creams, emulsions, toners, lotions, gels, essences, foundations, pack masks, lipsticks, sticks, bath preparations, and the like.
  • the cosmetic form can encompass a broad range of formulation types such as solution solubilized formula, powders, powder dispersions, oily solutions, gels, ointments, aerosols, water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-solid types, and the like.
  • the cosmetic composition according to this invention can be especially in the form of hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower bath creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat masses, stick preparations, powders, or ointments.
  • compositions can also comprise further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency regulators, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UV photoprotective factors, biogenic active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • the inventive cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one surfactant.
  • Surface-active substances which may be present are anionic, nonionic, cationic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the content of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70% by weight, preferably 5 to 50% by weight and in particular 10 to 30% by weight.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulphonates, alkanesulphonates, olefinsulphonates, alkyl ether sulphonates, glycerol ether sulphonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulphonates, sulpho fatty acids, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, glycerol ether sulphates, fatty acid ether sulphates, hydroxy mixed ether sulphates, monoglyceride (ether) sulphates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulphates, mono- and dialkyl sulphosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulphosuccinamates, sulphotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylaminoacids,
  • anionic surfactants comprise polyglycol ether chains
  • these can have a conventional homologue distribution, but preferably have a narrowed homologue distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(en)yl oligoglycosides and glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional homologue distribution, but preferably have a narrowed homologue distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulphobetaines.
  • the specified surfactants are exclusively known compounds.
  • surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, mono- and/or dialkyl sulphosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefinsulphonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and/or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably being based on wheat proteins.
  • inventive cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one oil body.
  • Suitable oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols and/or esters of branched C 6 -C 13 -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C 18 -C 38 -alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C 6 -C 10 -fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C 6 -C 18 -fatty acids, esters of C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon
  • Finsolv ® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, inter alia) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • dicaprylyl ether Cetiol ® OE
  • silicone oils cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, inter alia
  • aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • inventive cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one emulsifier.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionogenic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one fat or wax.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids
  • suitable waxes are inter alia natural waxes, such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial grease, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes
  • suitable additives are also fat-like substances, such as lecithins and phospholipids.
  • lecithins is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning those glycerophospholipids which are founded from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are thus also often as phosphatidylcholines (PC) in the specialist world. Examples of natural lecithins which may be mentioned are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and constitute derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood as meaning mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one pearlescent wax.
  • suitable pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, specifically ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, specifically coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, specifically stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, specifically long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, specifically laurone and distearyl ether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atom
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one consistency regulator and/or thickener.
  • Suitable consistency regulators are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols having 12 to 22, and preferably 16 to 18, carbon atoms, and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. Preference is given to a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of identical chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil grades (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopols ® and Pemulen grades from Goodrich; Synthalens ® from Sigma; Keltrol grades from Kelco; Sepigel grades from Seppic; Salcare grades from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • Aerosil grades hydrophilic silicas
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropyl
  • Bentonites such as, for example, Bentone ® Gel VS 5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective.
  • surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates having a narrowed homologue distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides, and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one superfatting agent.
  • Superfatting agents which can be used are substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin, and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol
  • fatty acid esters monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one stabilizer.
  • Stabilizers which can be used are metal salts of fatty acids, such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one polymer.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose obtainable under the name Polymer JR 400 ® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat ® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat ® L/Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretins ® /Sandoz
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate-butyl maleate-isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether-maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked polyacrylic acids and polyacrylic acids crosslinked with polyols, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride-acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide-methyl methacrylate-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate-2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylcaprolactam terpolymers,
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one silicone compound.
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can either be liquid or in resin form at room temperature.
  • simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones having an average chain length of from 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one UV photoprotective filter.
  • UV photoprotective factors are, for example, to be understood as meaning organic substances (photoprotective filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and give off the absorbed energy again in the form of longer-wavelength radiation, e.g. heat.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:
  • Suitable water-soluble substances are:
  • Suitable typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, and enamine compounds.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favourable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g.
  • water-soluble filters such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and cerium, and mixtures thereof.
  • Salts which may be used are silicates (talc), barium sulphate or zinc stearate.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skincare and skin-protective emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles here should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • the pigments can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape deviating in some other way from the spherical form.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, i.e. hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as, for example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck).
  • Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are here primarily silicones and, specifically in this case, trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones.
  • preference is given to using so-called micro- or nanopigments. Preference is given to using micronized zinc oxide.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one biogenic active ingredient and/or antioxidant.
  • Biogenic active ingredients are understood as meaning, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as, for example, prunus extract, bambara nut extract and vitamin complexes.
  • Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples thereof are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g.
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof
  • salts thereof dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and sulphoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulphoximines in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol/kg), and also (metal) chelating agents (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof
  • unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and derivatives thereof ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • stilbenes and derivatives thereof e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • derivatives salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • active ingredients which are suitable according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one anti-microbial agent and/or preservative.
  • Suitable antimicrobial agents are, in principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria, such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farn
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxy ethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacins ® , and also the other classes of substance listed in Annex 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Directive.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one film former.
  • Customary film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and similar compounds.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one swelling agent.
  • the swelling agents for aqueous phases may be montmorillonites, clay mineral substances, Pemulen, and alkyl-modified Carbopol grades (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers and swelling agents are given in the review by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108,95(1993 ).
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one hydrotrophic agent.
  • hydrotropic agents such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols.
  • Polyols which are suitable here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • the total amount of further components can be 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the compositions.
  • the compositions can be prepared by customary cold or hot processes; preference is given to using the phase-inversion temperature method.
  • 1-amino-3-phenylurea (synonym: 4-Phenylsemicarbazide) [CAS 537-47-3], 1-amino-3-(2,4-dimethylphenyl)urea (synonym: 4-(2-4-Xylyl)semicarbazide) [CAS 201137-86-2], and 1-amino-1-methyl-3-phenylurea (synonym : 2-Methyl-4-phenylsemicarbazide) [CAS 19102-24-0] are available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • tyrosinase is a key enzyme catalyzing the initial steps: the oxidation of tyrosine into dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) and of DOPA into Dopaquinone.
  • DOPA dihydroxyphenylalanine
  • DOPA is mixed with a range of concentration of the compound to be tested, and a control without compound. After addition of mushroom tyrosinase, oxidation of DOPA is recorded by measuring OD at 475 nm during 30 sec.
  • % of tyrosinase inhibition is expressed in % against control as a mean of 2-3 assays.
  • Table 2 tyrosinase inhibition Dose % (w/v) % of tyrosinase inhibition Control - 0 1-amino-3-phenylurea 0.0001 31 0.001 55 0.01 89

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  • Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)
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EP08021156A 2008-12-05 2008-12-05 Hautbleichmittel Withdrawn EP2193779A1 (de)

Priority Applications (8)

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EP08021156A EP2193779A1 (de) 2008-12-05 2008-12-05 Hautbleichmittel
US13/132,680 US20110236326A1 (en) 2008-12-05 2009-11-26 Skin Whitener
ES09771299.6T ES2545786T3 (es) 2008-12-05 2009-11-26 Blanqueador de la piel
KR1020117012812A KR20110091530A (ko) 2008-12-05 2009-11-26 피부 미백제
PCT/EP2009/008463 WO2010063415A1 (en) 2008-12-05 2009-11-26 Skin whitener
CN200980148275.7A CN102238936B (zh) 2008-12-05 2009-11-26 皮肤增白剂
EP09771299.6A EP2352486B1 (de) 2008-12-05 2009-11-26 Hautbleichungsmittel
JP2011538881A JP5781936B2 (ja) 2008-12-05 2009-11-26 皮膚美白剤

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Cited By (3)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012013417A2 (en) 2010-07-29 2012-02-02 Unilever Plc Skin care compositions comprising substituted diamines
WO2012013418A2 (en) 2010-07-29 2012-02-02 Unilever Plc Skin care compositions comprising substituted monoamines
EP2915796A4 (de) * 2012-11-02 2016-04-20 Seiwa Kasei Co Ltd Propylphenyletherderivat und melanogeneseinhibitor, hautbleichmittel, antimikrobielles mittel und kosmetikum mit diesem propylphenyletherderivat

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JP5901179B2 (ja) * 2011-08-26 2016-04-06 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 スクリーニング方法
CN106031854B (zh) * 2015-03-20 2018-03-20 中国石油化工股份有限公司 一种阴离子型低聚表面活性剂及其制备方法
CN109475482B (zh) * 2016-03-21 2022-03-29 西姆莱斯股份公司 药物

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FR1521959A (fr) * 1966-05-07 1968-04-19 Basf Ag Dérivés de semicarbazides et mélanges herbicides renfermant ces dérivés
EP0875604A1 (de) * 1997-04-17 1998-11-04 Nalco Chemical Company Substituierte Semicarbazides als Sauerstoffaufnehmer
WO2001064206A2 (en) * 2000-02-29 2001-09-07 Integriderm, Inc. Inhibitors of melanocyte tyrosinase as topical skin lighteners
EP1649846A1 (de) * 2004-10-21 2006-04-26 Neubourg Skin Care GmbH & Co. KG Verwendung von Harnstoff zur Behandlung von Altersflecken
FR2880022A1 (fr) * 2004-12-24 2006-06-30 Mayoly Spindler Soc Par Action Nouveaux derives de la n-hydroxy-n'-phenyluree et de la n-hydroxy-n'-phenylthiouree et leur utilisation comme inhibiteurs de la synthese de la melanine

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DE2716060C3 (de) * 1977-04-09 1980-06-12 Boehringer Mannheim Gmbh, 6800 Mannheim Stabilisierte Schnelldiagnostica mit Oxydationsindikatoren
US4514419A (en) * 1982-05-06 1985-04-30 Fmc Corporation Nematicidal use of hydrazinecarboxamides and carbothioamides
JPS6456614A (en) * 1987-08-27 1989-03-03 Ono Pharmaceutical Co Maillard reaction inhibitor
EP0323590A3 (de) * 1987-12-24 1990-05-02 Ono Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. Carbazoyl-Derivate
JPH02753A (ja) * 1987-12-24 1990-01-05 Ono Pharmaceut Co Ltd カルバゾイル誘導体、それらの製造方法およびそれらを有効成分として含有するメイラード反応阻害剤
JPH07109215A (ja) * 1993-10-08 1995-04-25 Momotani Jiyuntenkan:Kk 化粧用メイラード反応抑制剤およびメイラード反応抑制皮膚化粧料
JP3988838B2 (ja) * 1996-05-29 2007-10-10 日本製粉株式会社 化粧料
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FR1521959A (fr) * 1966-05-07 1968-04-19 Basf Ag Dérivés de semicarbazides et mélanges herbicides renfermant ces dérivés
EP0875604A1 (de) * 1997-04-17 1998-11-04 Nalco Chemical Company Substituierte Semicarbazides als Sauerstoffaufnehmer
WO2001064206A2 (en) * 2000-02-29 2001-09-07 Integriderm, Inc. Inhibitors of melanocyte tyrosinase as topical skin lighteners
EP1649846A1 (de) * 2004-10-21 2006-04-26 Neubourg Skin Care GmbH & Co. KG Verwendung von Harnstoff zur Behandlung von Altersflecken
FR2880022A1 (fr) * 2004-12-24 2006-06-30 Mayoly Spindler Soc Par Action Nouveaux derives de la n-hydroxy-n'-phenyluree et de la n-hydroxy-n'-phenylthiouree et leur utilisation comme inhibiteurs de la synthese de la melanine

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012013417A2 (en) 2010-07-29 2012-02-02 Unilever Plc Skin care compositions comprising substituted diamines
WO2012013418A2 (en) 2010-07-29 2012-02-02 Unilever Plc Skin care compositions comprising substituted monoamines
US8293218B2 (en) 2010-07-29 2012-10-23 Conopco, Inc. Skin care compositions comprising substituted monoamines
US8476251B2 (en) 2010-07-29 2013-07-02 Conopco, Inc. Skin care compositions comprising substituted diamines
EP2915796A4 (de) * 2012-11-02 2016-04-20 Seiwa Kasei Co Ltd Propylphenyletherderivat und melanogeneseinhibitor, hautbleichmittel, antimikrobielles mittel und kosmetikum mit diesem propylphenyletherderivat

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US20110236326A1 (en) 2011-09-29
KR20110091530A (ko) 2011-08-11
JP5781936B2 (ja) 2015-09-24
JP2012510959A (ja) 2012-05-17
EP2352486A1 (de) 2011-08-10
CN102238936A (zh) 2011-11-09
ES2545786T3 (es) 2015-09-15
CN102238936B (zh) 2014-09-17
EP2352486B1 (de) 2015-07-29

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