EP2056785A2 - Produit capillaire à effet structurant composé de silicones hydrosolubles et de polymères cationiques sélectionnés - Google Patents

Produit capillaire à effet structurant composé de silicones hydrosolubles et de polymères cationiques sélectionnés

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Publication number
EP2056785A2
EP2056785A2 EP07822561A EP07822561A EP2056785A2 EP 2056785 A2 EP2056785 A2 EP 2056785A2 EP 07822561 A EP07822561 A EP 07822561A EP 07822561 A EP07822561 A EP 07822561A EP 2056785 A2 EP2056785 A2 EP 2056785A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
copolymer
polymers
acid
peg
alkyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP07822561A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Dieter Goddinger
Nicole Zuedel Fernandes
Marlene Henke
Thomas Schröder
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication date
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Publication of EP2056785A2 publication Critical patent/EP2056785A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the hair-conditioning compositions containing at least two different cationic polymers and at least one water-soluble silicone, and to the use of these compositions for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair, in particular for the conditioning of hair.
  • human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.
  • oxidative processes such as, for example, bleaching or dyeing processes, but also the oxidative fixing of the hair after the reductive step of a cold wave, stress the keratin-containing fibers. In some cases, even lasting damage to the fibers can occur. There has therefore been no lack of attempts in the past to reduce the negative influence of the oxidizing agents on the fibers. Not least because of the heavy use of the hair by such processes but also by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. So can following such treatments, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair to be optimized or the hair to be protected from increased splitting.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.
  • These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents.
  • the consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.
  • active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface.
  • active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting.
  • the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.
  • the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations. Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. In relevant dermatological journals, reports of increasing intolerance in broad sections of the population are piling up on everyday products. These intolerances are based, among other things, on the changing consumer habits and the availability of the most exotic raw materials and foods in daily use. Consumers are therefore often advised, for example, in their diet of local products to serve.
  • a particularly great challenge for the cosmetics chemist is to develop cosmetics for the cleansing and care of skin and hair preferably from particularly compatible and already well-proven raw materials.
  • Particular attention is paid to the specific selection of selected raw materials, which can fulfill multifunctional tasks in the formulation, so that as few ingredients as possible are contained in one formulation.
  • the fewer ingredients in a formula the better these ingredients are known, the lower the risk of intolerance. If, in exceptional cases, a hypersensitive reaction occurs, the allergist can very quickly determine the irritating ingredient for this consumer because of the few ingredients.
  • the cosmetics are thus safer overall in use and in the compatibility for the consumer.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide compositions for compositions for the treatment and conditioning of keratinic fibers, in particular for the cleaning and care of keratinic fibers, which can very particularly preferably be applied subsequently to previously oxidatively treated keratinic fibers. At the same time the skin irritation of these agents reduced. In addition to agents for the oxidative dyeing of hair, the color stability of the coloration is furthermore significantly improved despite the subsequent washing and conditioning process. In means for carrying out a cold wave, the volume and the durability of the cold wave are influenced just as positively in the subsequent application of the compositions according to the invention as the very good combability.
  • compositions according to the invention contain:
  • compositions according to the invention contain the cationic polymers and the water-soluble silicone in a certain ratio.
  • the weight ratio between the total amount of the cationic polymers and the water-soluble silicones is from 20: 1 to 1:20, more preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 5, and most preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2 , 5 and most preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1, 5.
  • the two cationic polymers are mutually in a weight ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3 and most especially in a weight ratio of about 1: 1.
  • the first obligatory component of the composition according to the invention are two different cationic polymers.
  • the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention are therefore described in detail below.
  • the invention also encompasses the recognition that amphoteric polymers have cationic properties as a function of the pH. Therefore, the term "cationic polymers" according to the invention also means the amphoteric polymers.
  • Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can therefore be characterized by their cationic charge density.
  • the polymers of the invention are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g.
  • a charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred.
  • Particularly preferred is a charge density of at least equal to 3meq / g to 7 meq / g.
  • the molecular weight of the particular polymer is understood to mean the molecular weight which the manufacturer indicates in the corresponding data sheets by its method.
  • a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u has proven to be suitable according to the invention.
  • Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 1,000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.
  • the deposition of polymers of surfactant solutions on the surface of keratinic fibers is an adsorption process. This adsorption process is not fully understood until today.
  • the previously described selection of suitable polymers already takes place in the prior art according to the previously described criteria of charge density or molecular weight. These criteria are often not effective.
  • the deposition of polymers on keratinic fibers is physically an adsorption process.
  • Suitable polymers have a value of greater than 100,000 for the product of cationic charge density and molecular weight. Particularly suitable are polymers which have a value of at least 200,000 for this product. Especially suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value greater than 250,000. Most suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000.
  • the composition of the surface can be simplified as follows: The cationic polymer or the cationic polymers are initially deposited on the anionic surface of the keratinic fiber.
  • Such “bonds” are based on the electrostatic attraction of the negatively charged surface and on the cationically charged polymers, which is followed by Van der Waals interactions or hydrogen bonds via H - bonds, resulting in a smoothed and balanced surface , which is characterized by easy combability, increased gloss, better manageability and thus a higher volume.
  • a mixed adsorbate film will result from the two cationic polymers on the surface of the keratinic fiber. It may be advantageous to choose the cationic polymers not only in their structure but also in terms of their molecular weight and their cationic charge. On the other hand, a mixed adsorption of structurally different polymers does not lead to an optimization of the conditioning of keratinic fibers. In unfavorable cases, this may even lead to an undesirable loading of the keratinic fibers. This is comparable to an excessive amount of only one cationic polymer.
  • one of the two cationic polymers is a natural polymer
  • this natural polymer is selected from the polysaccharides.
  • the cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch, guar and / or chitosan have been found to be very particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • excellent results were obtained when one of the two cationic polysaccharides was cationic chitosan.
  • the best results were found with cationic chitosan and cationic guar derivative compositions as cationic polymers.
  • the cationic polymers are described in detail below.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called “temporary cationic" polymers, which usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.
  • the cationic polymers according to the invention can be both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties.
  • the suitable cationic polymers are preferably hair-setting and / or hair-conditioning polymers.
  • polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged.
  • the cationic charge density is preferably 1 to 7 meq / g.
  • the cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example
  • Dialkyl diallyl ammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride A / inylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-1 1), and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers, for example Silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • Polyquaternium such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride A / inylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-1 1)
  • quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers for example Silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quatern
  • cationic polymers which may be included in the composition of the invention is, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate which is sold under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734 by Gaf Co., USA and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferably suitable copolymer.
  • cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • R 1 -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion
  • copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers preferably, for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 1 stands for a methyl group RR 22 , RR 33 and RR 44 sstteehhen for methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counter ions X include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preferred are halide ions, particularly chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.
  • the crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)), and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) as the non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-Ci -4 alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-Ci- 4 -alkyl.
  • the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives.
  • Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (G1-III) GOB-N + R a R b R c X " G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene,
  • R 3 , Rb and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 C atoms, wherein the total number of C atoms in
  • R 3 , Rb and R c is preferably at most 20;
  • X " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • a cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees.
  • Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol.
  • Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.
  • hydrocolloids of the chitosan type are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, which contain the - idealized - monomer unit (I): ⁇ CH 2 OH HO NBt 2
  • chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions.
  • the positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care products as a film former.
  • the chitosans are also quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form into consideration.
  • the insert can also be in the form of aqueous gels having a solids content in the range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.
  • chitosans For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as inexpensive raw materials in large quantities.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • the chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins.
  • the molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol.
  • a low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable.
  • the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol.
  • the degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 to 99%.
  • the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form.
  • the degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.
  • a neutralizing agent it is possible in principle to use all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and the like, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%.
  • a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%.
  • Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • cationic polymers are, for example: cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • polyquaternized polyvinyl alcohol as well as the polymers known as polyquaternium 2, polyquaternium 17, polyquaternium 18 and polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • cationic polymers those under the designations Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product eg Quatrisoft ® LM 200), well-known polymers can be used.
  • Gaffix ® VC 713 manufactured by ISP:
  • the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • the cationic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule contain " - or -SO ß ' groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • Amphoteric polymers like the cationic polymers, are most preferred polymers.
  • amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, ethyl methacrylate, a copolymer of tert-butylamino, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A H is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
  • R 6 -CH CR 7 -COOH (G3-II) in which R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A H is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ;
  • Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.
  • Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.
  • the monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents.
  • the quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.
  • those monomers of the formula (G3-I) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of formula (G3-I) wherein R3, R4 and R5 are methyl groups.
  • the acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of the formula (G3-I).
  • Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (G3-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.
  • the zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (G3-I) and (G3-II) by polymerization processes known per se. Further details of the polymerization process can be found in the relevant specialist literature.
  • amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2,104,091, European Patent Application 47,714, European Offenlegungsschrift 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369.
  • Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are Methacroylethylbetain / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette ® (AMERCHOL).
  • silicones are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water. However, by suitable substitution, there are water-solubilized silicones.
  • water-soluble also encompasses "dispersible in water”.
  • Water-dispersed silicones are therefore also included according to the invention.
  • the solubility or dispersibility of silicones can be achieved, for example, by ethoxylation or propoxylation of silicones.
  • Water-soluble silicones can be easily recognized by their INCI name and generally have the addition of PEG or PPG commercial products before the actual INCI name the INCI name such as PEG-12 dimethicones or PEG-amodimethicones are typical representatives of water-soluble silicones. These will be described in more detail below.
  • Dimethicone copolyols form a group of the preferred water-soluble silicones. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas:
  • Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and similar; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical.
  • Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethicone copolyols are between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are from 1000 to 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can also be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes.
  • both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
  • the dimethicone copolyols (S3) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
  • the dimethicone copolyols it is also possible for the dimethicone copolyols to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of Dimethiconcopolyol up to 40 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt.% Based on the total composition.
  • Aminofunctional silicones or also called amodimethicones (S4), are silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.
  • Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (S4-I)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ wherein R 1 is a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, - OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is -N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , where each X is independent of X 2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • the molar ratio of R a Q b SiO (4-a - b) / 2 units to the R c SiO (4-C) / 2 units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II)
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -
  • R ' is a monovalent radical selected from
  • each R " is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, - benzyl, the Ci- 2 o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CHa) 3 , and A represents an anion , which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-V)
  • m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 and furthermore PE independently of one another represents a polyalkylene oxide block, with the proviso that at least one polyalkylene oxide block must be present.
  • the number of polyalkylene oxide blocks is in each case between 1 and 5000, preferably 1 and 3000 and particularly preferably from 1 to 1000, with 1 to 100 repeat units being most preferred.
  • the polyalkylene oxide is formed in the simplest case of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide or butylene oxide or mixtures thereof or a mixture of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Preference is given to the use of ethylene oxide.
  • silicones are referred to as PEG trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • agents according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-VI)
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 in which the sum (n1 + n2) preferably has values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10 and furthermore PE independently represents a polyalkylene oxide block, with the proviso that at least one Polyalkylenoxidbloxk must be included.
  • the number of polyalkylene oxide blocks is in each case between 1 and 5000, preferably 1 and 3000 and particularly preferably from 1 to 1000, with 1 to 100 repeat units being most preferred.
  • the polyalkylene oxide is formed in the simplest case of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide or butylene oxide or mixtures thereof or a mixture of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Preference is given to the use of ethylene oxide.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • the amodimethicones (S4) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of amodimethicone based on the composition.
  • the amodimethicones it is also possible for the amodimethicones to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of amodimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:
  • A is one of the groups: -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH 2 -, -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -,
  • a ' means: -CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -C (O) CH 2 -,
  • E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas:
  • C 40 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) - and -
  • N + (R 1 ) (R 3 ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above, or optionally a bond to a bivalent one
  • R 3 represents a radical in which R 3 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH, or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R are as defined above, wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case that
  • K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group takes place,
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they have the above-defined components a1) to a4).
  • the polysiloxane compounds are formed by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) to each other.
  • Component a4) serves to neutralize the positive charges resulting from component a2).
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the invention may be oligomers or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds also include the case described below wherein the polysiloxane compound has only one repeating unit.
  • Polysiloxane compounds of the invention are naturally formed by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.
  • the terminal atom groups result from the terminal atom groups of the starting materials used.
  • the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3).
  • the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention in particular their formed from the repeat units linear polymeric backbone, by alternating juxtaposition of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are constructed. That is, the optionally present in the structural components beyond free valences (as may occur in trivalent radicals as component a2) or trivalent radicals K) are preferably not used to build polymeric side chains or polymeric branches.
  • the main chain of the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can be built up from the organic radicals containing at least one ammonium group a2) and the polysiloxane structural units a3), and the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) bind as side chains to the trivalent organic ammonium group radical.
  • the following structures can result:
  • polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may result which have only one repeating unit. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. This case leads, for example, to inventive polysiloxane compounds of the structure: (terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit quaternary ammonium group radical)
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention preferably consist essentially of the components a1) to a4), the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention naturally having the terminal groups resulting from the reaction of the monomeric starting materials. However, it is also possible to use monofunctional chain terminators.
  • polyalkylene oxide structural units a) may be divalent radicals of the general formulas:
  • the rest A ' means:
  • the attachment of the radicals A or A to the group E is carried out so that the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH 2 - group of group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A to the terminal oxygen atom of the group E each bind to form ester groups.
  • the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) may furthermore be a monovalent, ie terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula: - AER 2 in which A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R 2 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 - C 2 0 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, or -C (O) - and substituted with -OH and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.
  • the component a2) from which the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are composed is at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group.
  • the binding of the radical to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention is preferably carried out via the nitrogen atom of one or more ammonium groups in the organic radical.
  • divalent or trivalent means that the organic ammonium radical to form bonds in particular to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention has two or three free valences.
  • the ammonium radical is expediently represented by an NH 4 + group in which at least two hydrogen atoms are substituted by organic groups.
  • quaternary ammonium group is by general definition (see, for example, Römpp Chemie Lexikon) a group in which all four hydrogen atoms of an NH 4 + group are replaced by organic radicals.
  • the component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention is at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula:
  • S is a polysiloxane group of the general formula
  • R 1 is preferably C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 1 -C 8 -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R1 is preferably C 1 -C 6 -alkyl, C 1 -C 6 -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R 1 is preferably C r C 6 alkyl, Ci - C 6 - Fluoroalkyl, more preferably CrC 4 fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. More preferably, R 1 is methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.
  • C 1 -C 22 -alkyl in the context of the present invention means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups have 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl and 1,2,3 trimethylhexyl.
  • C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom, by way of example monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl , Perfluorethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl.
  • aryl in the context of the present invention are unsubstituted or mono or polysubstituted with OH, F, Cl, CF 3 C r C 6 alkyl, C r C 6 alkoxy, C 3 -C 7 - cycloalkyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl.
  • the term may optionally also mean naphthyl.
  • K represents a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) -, -NR 1 -, and -N + (R 1 ) (R 3 ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • the group K binds via a carbon atom to the silicon atom of the group S.
  • the group K can, as seen above, also preferably have quaternary ammonium groups, so that ammonium groups in addition to the Ammonium groups in said component a2) in the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention result.
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can, for example in the radical K, have amino groups.
  • the reaction of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention with acids leads to their protonation.
  • Such protonated amino group-containing polysiloxane compounds are included in the scope of the present invention.
  • the bonding of component a3), the polysiloxane structural unit -K-S-K-, to the other structural components via the radical K preferably does not take place via a nitrogen atom of the radical K.
  • R 1 is as defined above or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R 3 , so that a cycle results.
  • R 3 represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -C 2 o-hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - interrupted and with - OH may be substituted, or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R 2 are as defined above.
  • the radicals K can be identical or different from one another, and in the case where K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence takes place via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group.
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention furthermore contain component a4), at least one organic or inorganic anionic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s).
  • Organic or inorganic acid radicals are radicals that formally result from the elimination of one or more protons from organic or inorganic acids and include, for example, halides such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfates, nitrates, phosphates, carboxylates such as formate, acetate, propionate etc., sulfonates, sulfates, polyether carboxylates and polyether sulfates etc. Chloride is preferred.
  • the organic or inorganic anionic acid radicals as component a4) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may be identical or different be from each other.
  • halide ions preferably result from the reaction of the amines with alkyl halides, while, for example, carboxylates result from the carboxylic acids which can be added in the reaction of bisepoxides with amines.
  • K represents a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -NR 1 -, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above, and wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other.
  • organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group is preferably a radical of the general formula:
  • N 1 is a quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 4 ) N + (R 5 ) -, wherein R 4 represents a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, and R 5 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical represents, which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 4 or a tetravalent radical F, and the radicals R 4 and R 5 within the group -N 1 -FN 1 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different
  • F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group may furthermore preferably be a radical of the general formula - (R 6 ) N + (R 7 ) -, in which R 6 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d C 3 o-hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
  • -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or R 6 represents a single bond to a trivalent radical K.
  • R 7 is a monovalent straight chain, cyclical or branched C 1 -C 2 0- hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be substituted with -OH and interrupted, or -AER 2 , wherein -AER 2 has the abovementioned meaning, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 6 or to a trivalent radical K.
  • the radicals R 6 and R 7 may be the same or different from each other.
  • the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one ammonium group may further preferably be a radical of the general formula:
  • N 5 is an ammonium group of the general formula
  • R 23 is hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 2 0- hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - interrupted and - OH can be substituted,
  • R 24 is hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d-C 20 -
  • R 23 represents, and the radicals R 23 and R 24 may F 1 represents a divalent linear, cyclic or branched -N hydrocarbon radical within the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -as well as in the polysiloxane compound the same or different from each other, represents the may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -N-, -C (S) - or by a group -E-,
  • a particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds (which will be referred to as the first embodiment of component a) of the active ingredient complex), wherein the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, as component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention a radical the general formula:
  • B is -AEKSKEA- and additionally -AE-A'- or -AEA-, where S, K, -AE-, - EA-, -AE-A 'or -A'-EA- and - N 1 -FN 1 - are as defined above, and the proportion of the group -AE-A 'or -A'-EA- in the group B may be chosen so that the mass of -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- from 0 to 90%, preferably 0% or 0.1 to
  • the first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds preferably relates to linear alkylene oxide-modified polyquartezere polysiloxanes of the general
  • R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000,
  • K is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -
  • E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure
  • A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-,
  • N 1 is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R 4 ) N + (R 5 ) -
  • R 4 represents a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched dC 20 hydrocarbon radical interrupted by O-, -NH, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and. may be substituted with -OH
  • R 5 represents R 4 or a single bond to R 4 or F
  • F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • a tetravalent substructure for F means that F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N 1 , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N 1 .
  • the possibility of a divalent substructure for R 4 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure in which R 5 in this case is a single bond to R 4 .
  • Examples are morpholinyl and piperidinyl structures. More preferred embodiments of this so-called first embodiment of the invention and processes for the preparation of said polysiloxane compounds of the formula (I) or (I 1 ) are described below.
  • R 4 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, - CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 14 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 14 , wherein R 14 is a straight-chained, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • R 4 and R 5 can also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
  • R 1 in the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements.
  • R 4 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 1 6, more preferably C 3 -C 6 , hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C may be interrupted and substituted by -OH, more preferably a C 3 - - (O) -, -C (S) -C 6 - hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with - OH, wherein R 1 has the abovementioned meaning.
  • F is preferably a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 2 O hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, - C (S), a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • R 14 is preferably unsubstituted C 5 -C 7 -hydrocarbon radicals derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C 3 -C 7 radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • R 14 furthermore preferably represents hydroxylated radicals from the group consisting of
  • m is 2 to 100, preferably 2 to 50.
  • n is 0 to 1000, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 80, and most preferably 10 to 80.
  • q is 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20 and particularly preferably 2 to 10.
  • r is 0 to 200, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 50, and even more preferably 0 to 20.
  • N 2 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula
  • R 8 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d
  • C 2 o-hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
  • R 9 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC 2 O -
  • a hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R 8 or to a trivalent radical K. , and the radicals R 8 and R 9 within the
  • Polysiloxane compound of general formula (II) may be the same or different from each other.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the second embodiment are preferably ( ⁇ , ⁇ -alkylene oxide and polyquaternary modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (II 1 ) R 16 - EAN 2 -KSKN 2 -AER 16 (IT)
  • K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -
  • -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH
  • N 2 is a quaternary ammonium structure
  • R 8 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d
  • C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
  • A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-
  • E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure
  • R 16 H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC 20 hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and
  • -OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.
  • K can be branched and then participates with two bonds in the quaternization of N 2 .
  • divalent substructure for R 8 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R 9 is then a single bond to R 2 .
  • R 8 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH -CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 17 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 17 , in which R 17 denotes a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 8 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • R 8 and R 9 may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
  • R 1 in the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements.
  • K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched one
  • -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above.
  • Preferred for K are, for example, radicals of the following structures:
  • R 8 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 6 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O), -C (S) - and substituted by -OH ,
  • R 16 is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 8 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic or olefinic.
  • R 17 preferably represents unsubstituted C 5 -C 7 -hydrocarbon radicals which are derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C 3 -C 7 radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably to saccharidecarboxylic acids.
  • R is more preferably selected from the group
  • n is preferably 0 to 200, more preferably 0 to 80, particularly preferably 10 to 80.
  • q is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and particularly preferably 2 to 10.
  • r is preferably 0 to 100, and more preferably 0 to 50.
  • r is preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably 0 to 10.
  • polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) as an essential constituent of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (III): - [KSKN 3 Jm- (III)
  • N 3 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula
  • R 10 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d- C 30 -
  • Hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or represents a single bond to K,
  • R 11 is -AER 2 , wherein -AER 2 has the abovementioned meaning.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the third embodiment are alkylene oxide-modified polyparternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (IN ' ),
  • N 3 is a quaternary ammonium structure
  • R 10 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC 3 o-hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
  • -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or represents a single bond to K
  • R 3 -AE - is, with
  • A represents -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- and
  • R 18 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC 2 o-hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic
  • K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or contains a quaternary ammonium structure N 5 , with N 5 meaning - (R 19 ) N + (R 20 ) -
  • R 19 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or a single bond to R 10 and R 20 is -AE- which is as defined above.
  • R 10 and R 19 are independently of one another preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 21 or - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 21 , wherein R 21 is a straight-chained, cyclic or branched d-cis hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • a bivalent substructure for R 10 is a cyclic system-forming structure wherein R 10 then has a single bond to K, preferably to a tertiary amino structure or to the quaternary structure N 5 over R 19 .
  • R 1 in the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes can be referred to the above statements.
  • R 10 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 25 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.
  • R 19 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 25 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.
  • K is furthermore preferably a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 -,
  • R 20 is as defined above.
  • R 2 or R 18 is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC-is-hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and -OH and is acetylenic or olefinic can be. More preferably R 2 or R 18 is C r C 6 -alkyl,
  • R 21 is an unsubstituted Ci-Cs hydrocarbon group T which is derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C 3 -C 7 radicals, and in preferred saccharide is derived from the group of hydroxylated carboxylic acids.
  • R 21 is:
  • m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50
  • n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80
  • q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50 particularly preferably 2 to 20, and more preferably q is 2 to 10
  • r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, more preferably 0 to 20, and even more preferably r is 0 to 10.
  • polysiloxanes which is referred to below as the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes to be used according to the invention
  • N 4 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 12 ) N + (R 13 ) - wherein R 12 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched dC 2 o hydrocarbon radical; by -
  • O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH,
  • R 13 may have the meanings of R 12 , or represents a single bond to K or R 12 , and the radicals R 12 and R 13 may be the same or different from each other.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the fourth embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyquartezere polysiloxanes of the general formula (IV),
  • R 1 represents 22 alkyl is C, C r C 22 fluoroalkyl or aryl, n O to 1000,
  • K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched
  • C 2 -C 2O - represents hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-,
  • -NR 1 , -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH
  • N is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R 12 ) N + (R 13 ) - where R 12 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched CrC 20 hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH,
  • R 13 is R 12 or a single bond to K or R 12 ,
  • A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-
  • K can be branched and then be involved with two bonds in the quaternization of N 4 .
  • R 12 The possibility of a divalent substructure for R 12 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R 13 is then a single bond to R 12 .
  • R 12 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 22 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 22 , in which R 22 is a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 8 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) - , -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • R 12 and R 13 may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
  • R 12 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 6 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.
  • K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 16 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 - or
  • R 22 is an unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals which may be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • R22 More preferred is R22.
  • m is preferably 2 to 100, and particularly preferably 2 to 50.
  • n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80.
  • q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, and particularly preferably 2 to 20, more preferably q is 2 to 10.
  • r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, and more preferably 0 to 20, more preferably r is 0 to 10.
  • dC 22 -alkyl or d-C 5 -hydrocarbon radical as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 30 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3-trimethylhexyl.
  • diC 22 fluoroalkyl in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Examples include monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2 trifluorobutyl listed.
  • aryl as used above means in the context of the present invention unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF 3 C 1 -C 6 -alkyl, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy, C 3 -C 7 -cycloalkyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl.
  • the term may optionally also mean naphthyl.
  • a particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes according to the invention as constituent a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V): [-N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -Y-] m where
  • Y is a group of the formula -K-S-K- and -A-E-A'- and -A'-E-A-, respectively,
  • the groups K, S, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA- within the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V) may be the same or different from each other, and the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) of 100: 1 to 1: 100,
  • N 5 is an ammonium group of the general formula - (R 23 ) N + (R 24 ) - wherein R 23 is hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched dC 2 o hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH -, -C (O) -, and may be substituted with -OH,
  • R 24 represents hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC 2 O hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, - C (O) -, C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R 23 , and the radicals R 23 and R 24 within the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different, F 1 is a bivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) - or -C (S) - or by a group -E-, where E is as defined above, and wherein a plurality of N 5 and F 1 may each be the same or different from each other.
  • the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A ' or -A ' -EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) is between 100: 1 and 1: 100.
  • This molar ratio can, as in In the published patent application WO 02/10257, the choice of the molar ratio of the starting compounds, in particular the ratio of the ( ⁇ , ⁇ -halocarboxylic acid polyalkylene oxide ester compounds and the polysiloxane bis-epoxide compounds preferably used according to the invention, controls the properties of the products Ratio of the starting materials, as well as the length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane contained therein from.
  • K is a divalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 4 carbon atoms which has a hydroxyl group and which may be interrupted by an oxygen atom.
  • F1 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - or may be interrupted by a group - E -, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein the carbon atoms resulting from the radical E are not counted among the 2 to 30 carbon atoms of the C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical ,
  • R 25 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may, particularly preferably is methyl,
  • R 26 a monovalent straight chain, cyclical or branched C 1 -C lenwasserstoffrest 2 0- Koh by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) - with -OH may be substituted, -C (S) is interrupted and, more preferably methyl or a single bond to a divalent radical R 25 , and the radicals R 25 and R 26 within the group - N 5 -F 2 -N 5 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other, and
  • F 2 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -.
  • F 2 is a branched, preferably straight-chain C 1 -C 6 -alkanediyl group, of which a 1,6-hexanediyl (or hexamethylene) group is preferred.
  • the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - is a group of the formula:
  • R 27 and R 28 are each hydrogen, C r C 6 alkyl or hydroxy (Ci-C 6 ) alkyl, preferably hydrogen, methyl or -CH 2 CH 2 OH, and
  • F 3 is a divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above.
  • F 3 is particularly preferably a group of the formula
  • D is each a single bond or a straight or branched C 1 -C 6 alkanediyl group, with the proviso that D is not
  • Single bond is when it binds to a terminal group E oxygen atom.
  • the group -D-E-D- is replaced by a group of the formula
  • D (OCH 2 CH 2 ) V (OCH 2 CH (CH 3 )) W -OD-
  • D is a C 1 -C 6 straight or branched alkanediyl group and r and q are as defined above.
  • Propylene oxide units may be arranged arbitrarily, e.g. as a random copolymer unit or as a block copolymer unit.
  • v is preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 70, still more preferably 1 to 40.
  • w is preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 70, even more preferably 0 to 40.
  • polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) are composed of two different types of the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) may be cyclic or linear.
  • the terminal groups result either from the bifunctional monomers described below for the preparation or their functionalized derivatives or from monoamines which are added as chain terminators during the polymerization.
  • the terminal groups resulting from the use of the monoamine chain-stopper are preferably present as ammonium groups, either by quaternization or protonation.
  • K is one of the groups of the formula:
  • polysiloxanes q is preferably in the range from 1 to 50, in particular 2 to 50, especially 2 to 20 and especially 2 to 10, and r is in the range of 0 to 100, in particular 0 to 50, especially 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10.
  • the organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s) is expediently selected from inorganic radicals such as chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, Propionate, octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above, chloride and bromide preferably result from the reaction of the alkyl halide groups with amine groups.
  • inorganic radicals such as chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, Propionate, octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above
  • polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment are present in protonated form as amine salts or as amines.
  • the polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment of the invention are conveniently prepared by one of the methods described in the laid-open specification WO 02/10257.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ® from GE Bayer Silicones.
  • the products with the names Baysilone TP 391 1, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.
  • polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above are very particularly preferred in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each based on the total composition.
  • this mixture is in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Of silicone mixture based on the composition.
  • the mixture of silicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of silicone mixture may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the surfactants essentially comprise two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers. These ingredients may be included in the compositions of the invention to adjust certain performance properties of the compositions.
  • the addition of the surfactants for example, can serve to adjust the foaming behavior in relation to the amount and the spontaneous foaming targeted.
  • Emulsifiers can be used, for example, to incorporate perfume oils in the compositions according to the invention.
  • surfactants (E) is understood to mean surface-active substances which can form adsorption layers on upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.
  • particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • Alpha sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-
  • R 7 CO (AIkO) n SO 3 M (EI-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • compositions according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants.
  • mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants.
  • the effect of the composition according to the invention is substantially increased.
  • mistyrene foam surfactants is understood by the person skilled in the art as surfactants, which are found in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the neutral redness test, the BUS model (bovine and skin model), the human skin model, the Zeize test, the Draize test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringhunttest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants All test models have in common that is measured against a standard to which the measurement results are obtained in each of these For example, in the HET-CAM test, this threshold is 1, 5. This means that all surfactants, for example those in the HET-CAM test, are referred to as "mild” have a relative irritation score of 1, 5 and smaller.
  • a surfactant gives a different score in each test model. This means that, for example, one cocamidopropyl betaine may even be classified as "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while it is more likely to be classified as mild surfactants in the other test models
  • a common and accepted classification defines anionic surfactants as mild when used in HET In the present invention, however, such anionic surfactants are preferably used and understood as "mild anionic surfactants", which are classified as "mild” in all currently known test models.
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • the Sulfobernsteinklamonoalkyl (C 8 - C 24 ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B.
  • sulfosuccinic acid ester is made thereby, to react maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to form the maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfite it with sodium sulfite to give the sulfosuccinic acid ester.
  • Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettkladremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
  • Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) X -OSOsH, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C
  • R 1 is preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, glycerol ether sulfates such as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III), CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) x - COR 8
  • Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride,
  • monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide-ether carboxylic acids, Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product.
  • These are prepared by condensation of C8 - C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids having 12 - 18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products, as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins.
  • These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz.
  • Such products have long been commercially available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ®, glutamates and aspartates.
  • mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution.
  • the number of glycol ether groups it is preferred for the number of glycol ether groups to be from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15, more preferably from 2 to 12.
  • mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ®.
  • mild and anionic surfactants mentioned heretofore and in the following can also be used in the form of their salts.
  • Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are in each case in the form of the lithium, magnesium, zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group.
  • the preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium,
  • the teaching of the invention also does not include the other explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts.
  • compositions according to the invention are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the general formula ( I) derive
  • G glycoside unit which is derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • the mild anionic surfactant is selected from anionic alkyl polyglycosides, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates, protein fatty acid condensates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates, acyl glutamates, and acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic alkyl polyglucosides such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates and also taurates and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • the mixing ratio of these surfactants is at least 10: 1 to 1:10.
  • Preferred is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.
  • the radical is 0-CH 2 -COONa.
  • alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical.
  • a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ® LCG Cognis Germany.
  • the glycoside units G are preferably derived from aldoses or ketoses.
  • the aldoses are used.
  • glucose is particularly suitable for their easy accessibility and technical availability.
  • the alkylglycosides which are particularly preferably used as starting materials are therefore the alkylglucosides.
  • alkyl glycosides having a middle Oligomermaschinesgrad p of 1, 1 to 3.0 used. Particular preference is given to those alkyl glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and, in particular, lies between 1.1 and 1.4.
  • the alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and technical fractions which, in addition to the saturated alcohols mentioned, may also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols and which are based on natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil or beef tallow are obtained. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also be derived from synthetic primary alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40% by weight of branched isomers.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, phosphates, sulfates or isethionates used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes.
  • the carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it can be reacted with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH 2 -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock.
  • the Alkyl oligoglycosides reacted at least on the -CH 2 -OH group, wherein optionally an agent can be reacted one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring.
  • hydroxyl groups may also be etherified, for example.
  • the preparation of the isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products can be used for hair and body care. In particular, aqueous detergent mixtures are described which contain alkyloligoglycoside isethionates and, for example, further anionic surfactants.
  • the preparation of the sulfates is also carried out by known methods. Furthermore, mixtures of APG sulphates with i.a. Alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates and other ingredients described. It is stated that the surfactant mixtures can be used in products that are used for washing, dyeing, rippling or rinsing hair.
  • the preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the prior art.
  • the corresponding alkyl glycoside can be reacted with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid followed by neutralization.
  • Cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known.
  • detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates are described which can be used, for example, in hair rinses, hair dyes or hair waving agents.
  • the mild anionic surfactants used according to the invention and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%
  • the mild anionic surfactants used and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates can completely or partially replace the customary anionic surfactants in these compositions.
  • the mild anionic surfactants according to the invention can be used as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants can be used with each other or with other conventional anionic surfactants.
  • These conventional anionic surfactants are explained in more detail later.
  • the mild anionic surfactants and other anionic surfactants may be present in a weight ratio ranging from 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1 , 5, and most preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO * " 'or -SOß' " 'group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI
  • Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are meant those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C - contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and alkyl or acyl group of forming inner salts - C 24 are capable.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 - C 8 - sarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.
  • Such compounds are, for example:
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 stands
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 1 1, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci 2 / i 4 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3
  • R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference is made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, gadoleic, behe
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the sugar surfactants may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.
  • nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formalin, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.
  • the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native plant or animal feedstocks in the production of these substances. hen, so that one obtains substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • normal homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • nonionic surfactants As additives for further improving the creaminess of the foam and the feel on the skin during and after use, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which may be recommended for preparing the compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of 0.1 - 20 wt .-% of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2-18.
  • Such products can be prepared by addition of ethylene oxide to z.
  • the HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship
  • wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.
  • the cationic surfactants (E5) form the last group of surfactants.
  • Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the active ingredient complex according to the invention in that, like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, they become a distinct one contribute to improved cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair.
  • the cationic charge ensures a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces, especially of damaged hair or stressed skin.
  • more hydrophobically structured active ingredients can accumulate.
  • an overall increased deposition of care substances on the surface of skin and hair is effected. For example, the hair is easier to comb, easier to style both in the dry and in the wet state and shows more shine and a pleasant grip.
  • Cationic surfactants (E5) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 ) + with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals in particular the substances known under the name of behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference.
  • Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues.
  • these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ® KDMP (Clariant).
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the agents of the invention may comprise at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring.
  • the formula (E5-V) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of formula (E5-V) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms.
  • a very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91.
  • In the formula (E5-V) is shown as the counterion methosulfate.
  • the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates.
  • the imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • a according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercially available dimethylamine.
  • the alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, they Of course, they can also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Lanoquat ® DES-50 or Empigen CSC.
  • the cationic surfactants (E5) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.
  • Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the compositions according to the invention are to be used as shampoos.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule.
  • Hydrophilic Emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example: addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms.
  • Atoms in the alkyl group C 2 -C 22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides , C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose being preferred as the sugar component; mixtures of alkyl- oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68, addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols).
  • zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
  • suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol.
  • Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • Phospholipids include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
  • Fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product), linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C - atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1 - 5 wt .-% proved.
  • the addition of such mixed esters achieves a particularly creamy, fine-bubble foam and a pleasant feel on the skin when using the body cleanser.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • mild anionic surfactants are used together with other than mild or particularly mild known surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • the criteria for this are the test models already described above.
  • the following surfactants and emulsifiers have been found to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention: esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C. - represent atoms, zwitterionic surfactants (E2), ampholytic surfactants (E3),
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® - types (Cognis), Amine oxides,
  • Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,
  • Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines are quaternized alkylamidoamines.
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product)
  • the particularly mild surfactants and emulsifiers are preferably used in the compositions.
  • the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates in amounts below 8 wt.%, preferably less than 5% by weight and more preferably less than 2.5% by weight.
  • these compositions are free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates.
  • Free from in this context means that these ingredients are not used in any way, but it is possible that they may be introduced into the composition by other ingredients, such as the use of silicone emulsions, so “free from” preferably means smaller than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, “free from” in this context does not mean that the compositions according to the invention may not contain any fatty alcohol ether sulfates restricted in the homolog distribution, this is rather an exception, since these anionic surfactants belong to the mild anionic surfactants If, in these cases, "non-mild surfactants" are added to the compositions according to the invention as an admixture with other ingredients, the quantities mentioned above apply to these admixtures.
  • phase inversion temperature depends on many factors, for example the type and phase volume of the oil component, the hydrophilicity and the structure of the emulsifier or the composition of the emulsifier system.
  • Emulsions prepared at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature are characterized by particular stability and fineness, while those prepared above the phase inversion temperature are less finely divided.
  • Emulsions that undergo phase inversion at a certain temperature are called PIT emulsions.
  • PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention, because they contain significantly less emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions due to the just sufficient amount of emulsifier. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but also very mild and gentle on the skin and hair.
  • Synergists of the compositions according to the invention include anionic and nonionic polymers. Polymers are used in cosmetic compositions for a variety of reasons.
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is, which is 1 1-80 commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ®.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer may be preferable to use.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene cross-linked methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, a compound (V1) having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and a di- or polyisocyanate (V2).
  • the compounds (V1) may be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols.
  • the compounds having more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually used only in small amounts in combination with a large excess of compounds having 2 active hydrogen atoms.
  • Examples of compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1, 2 and 1, 3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -Propylenglykole, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane, hexamethylenediamine and omega, omega-diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.
  • Polyurethanes in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention.
  • polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.
  • Polyesterols are usually obtained by modifying the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.
  • the polyurethanes used in the invention may contain other building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • the further building blocks there is no fundamental restriction as to whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks.
  • compositions according to the invention when the polyurethanes were not mixed directly with the other components, but introduced in the form of aqueous dispersions.
  • aqueous dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, in particular about 35-45% and are also commercially available.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each VinylpyrrolidonA / inylacetat copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules).
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidones as sold for example under the name Luviskol ® (BASF). Glycosidically substituted silicones.
  • the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders.
  • Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles.
  • Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides.
  • Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron.
  • Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trade name Polytrap ® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade.
  • Other polymer powders for example based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) having a particle size of 2 - (10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m 2 / g under the trade name Orgasol ® 2002 DU Nat Cos Atochem SA, Paris).
  • spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the Polyethylene and polypropylene powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or else silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.
  • the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL
  • Plastic Powder FP styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers
  • ACCUREL EP 400 Polyethylene and polypropylene powder
  • silicone polymers Silicone Powder X2-1605
  • the polymer powders described above are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Polymers regardless of their chemical structure and charge, can also be characterized by their function in cosmetic agents.
  • the description of the polymers according to their function in the agents according to the invention does not necessarily correspond to a rating or significance of these polymers. Rather, all polymers are in principle to be regarded as equivalent for use in the compositions according to the invention, although some of these polymers may also be preferred.
  • the polymers described hereinbelow according to their function in the compositions of the invention are cationic and / or amphoteric, they constitute a compulsory component of the present composition.
  • Other charged or neutral polymers are optional ingredients of the present invention.
  • a film-forming cationic or amphoteric polymer is particularly preferably selected if the composition is to be used as a styling agent or setting agent.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particular preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the composition according to the invention. Because of their pronounced film formation properties, these polymers are very particularly preferred in the compositions of the invention. The use of at least one of these polymers is therefore also very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • film-forming polymers are also understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • Suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers made up of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable examples are homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.
  • Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides Akypomine ® P 191 sold by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ® 305 by the company SEPPIC, for example, under the trade designations; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, sold under the trade names Ucon® Union Carbide. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates /
  • Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Alginates, Ammonium Polyacrylates, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Avena Sativa
  • Polyquaternium-1 Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5,
  • Polyquaternium-10 Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13,
  • Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Triticum Vulgaris (Wheat) Protein, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, VA / Butyl Maleate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl
  • Neodecanoate Copolymer VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonic Acid / PEG-20M Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Isobutyl Maleate / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Chloride Copolymer, Vinyl Acetates, Vinylamines / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Chloride / Vinyl Laurate Copolymer, VP / Dimethiconyl Acrylates / Polycarbamyl / Polyglycol Ester, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,
  • Film-forming polymers and gums are therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays or leave-on conditioners. As such, they are preferably used in the compositions of the present invention when used in such compositions. Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is, water. As a result, the limp drooping of the strands of hair is reduced and thus a long-lasting hairstyle structure and preservation is guaranteed. The test method for this is often the so-called curl retention test applied.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume, the hair fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • These so-called setting polymers are at the same time film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are: Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylate / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylate Copolymer,
  • Amodimethicone Copolymer Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxides Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylate Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethyl Propanediol AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer
  • Neodecanoate Copolymer VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate.
  • the film-forming and / or setting polymer is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, very particularly preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight ,
  • film-forming and / or setting polymers may also be present in the composition according to the invention.
  • These film-forming and / or setting polymers may be both permanent and temporary cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric.
  • the present invention also encompasses the recognition that, when using at least two film-forming and / or setting polymers, these can of course have different charges.
  • an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer is shared.
  • the use of at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or setting polymers is also preferred.
  • a particular embodiment may in turn additionally contain at least one further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • the antistatic effect of polymers is another essential function for cosmetic agents.
  • the surfaces of the cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and keratinic fibers are influenced in their electrical potential.
  • this effect reduces the effect known as "fly-away effect” and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers, but it also affects the skin surface on the skin surface, and some of these polymers have their optimum effect
  • preference is given from this group of polymers to those which at the same time belong to at least one of the groups of fixing and / or film-forming polymers It is, however, preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers has at least two of the desired properties Accordingly, when the polymer further satisfies another property in addition to the three most important properties of strengthening, fixation and film formation.
  • antistatic polymers examples include:
  • the emulsion-stabilizing polymers are also among the polymers preferred according to the invention. These are understood to mean polymers which essentially support the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively affecting the continuous or disperse phase. This positive influence may be due to an electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or a film formation on the surface of the droplets.
  • polymers in question can also be used to particular advantage in the compositions according to the invention in order to dissolve the powdery compositions according to the invention before and / or during the application of the powder in water.
  • polymers are acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / aminoacrylates / CI O-SO alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / stearyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / inyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Alcaligenes polysaccharides , AIIyI Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phos
  • Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations.
  • aqueous phases their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems. This property of the polymers is also advantageous in the powders according to the invention before and / or during use.
  • typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems are examples:
  • Acrylamide Copolymer Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth -20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steary
  • Acryloyldimethyltaurate A / P Copolymer Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan , Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum
  • Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products.
  • polymers which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels. This also contributes significantly to the excellent application of the powders according to the invention. With these polymers, the viscosity of the composition which forms on dissolution is excellently controlled.
  • Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propy
  • microparticles filled or unfilled may also be used in the composition of the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active agent from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation.
  • Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids.
  • the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:
  • Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactones, Polyethylacrylates, Polyhydroxystearic Acid,
  • the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the polymer (G) according to the invention may be both a consolidating and / or film-forming polymer and a polymer having conditioning or avivating and / or thickening properties.
  • the polymers (G) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (D) as further active ingredient.
  • the active substance complex according to the invention contains a sandalwood extract, a fatty substance and a further active substance selected from the cationic surfactants, the amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, the cationic polymers or the amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers.
  • Fatty substances (D) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • Fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C o-3, preferably C10 - C22 and most preferably C 12 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols come from Preferably, from natural fatty acids, which can usually be expected from a recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil,
  • Almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil are also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Atoms such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n- undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and also tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of Ce - C30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestat, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di- isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylgly- koldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides which are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.
  • One last group of substances that can be used as fatty substances are silicones.
  • silicone oils As a further class of substances, which is included as an alternative to the previously described in the compositions of the invention as an active ingredient, the silicone oils (S). Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which is formed by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and styling, is positively influenced by silicones.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR 1 2 ) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (SiOHR 1 2 ) (S1-I)
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention from 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably from 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably from 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably from 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. If branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF
  • the dimethiconols (S1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • the dimethiconols form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term.
  • the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR 1 S) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (SiR 1 S) (S2-I)
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2 - II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.
  • the dimethicones (S2) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconone based on the composition.
  • the dimethicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term.
  • the amount of dimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • teaching of the invention also includes that a mixture of several fatty substances (D) from different classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fatty substances in the inventive
  • compositions can be used.
  • the preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components necessarily contain at least one further silicone component in this case.
  • the silicone component in this case is selected from the dimethiconols and the amodimethicones.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).
  • Proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of fibers, especially keratinic fibers.
  • Structural strengthening that is to say restructuring in the context of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences.
  • the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role.
  • Restructured fibers are distinguished, for example, by an improved gloss or by an improved grip or by easier combing.
  • they have an optimized strength and elasticity.
  • a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.
  • a detailed description of the method for determining the melting range of hair can be found in DE 196 173 95 A1.
  • compositions according to the invention are used.
  • This foam which is very fine in structure, creamy and extremely pleasant to the touch, is achieved in all compositions in which, in particular, surface-active substances are contained as further ingredients.
  • the effectiveness of the invention Composition is further increased by the simultaneous use of polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids. In these cases, even after the application of the particular composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or its derivative remains on the surface of the hair, resulting in an improved effect. The hair is thus significantly strengthened and smoothed in its structure.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • the present teaching according to the invention also encompasses that in the case of the amino acids, these may be present in the form of derivatives such as, for example, the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-esters.
  • the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl group may be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the alcohols on which the esterification is based are methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, Decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the amino acids can be simultaneously derivatized both at the N atom and at the O atom.
  • the amino acids can also be used in salt form, in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.
  • amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline , Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, VaNn, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine.
  • Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline, hydroxyproline serine and asparagine.
  • Alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine are very particularly preferably used. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Moringa growths have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their common name "Wunderbaum.” They are preferably native to tropical areas.The various parts of this genus of plants have been used since ancient times, especially for medical purposes.
  • This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons
  • Preferred is a protein extract with a molecular weight of 3,000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 daltons
  • the most preferred extract is obtained from the plant Moringa oleifera
  • the extract according to the invention naturally contains water and glycerol on the basis of the extraction
  • the content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20% by weight
  • a content of protein of 0.01 to 10% by weight is preferred an extract with a protein content of 0.01 up to 5% by weight n are contained in the extract at least 30 wt.% Glycerol.
  • water is contained in the extract according to the invention.
  • the above-described protein extract from the seeds of the Moringa growths is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight.
  • amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.
  • Beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be easily obtained from cultivated mussels. The cultivation of the mussels can be done in fresh water as well as in sea water. This can affect the ingredients of the beads. According to the invention, preference is given to a pearl extract which originates from shells cultivated in marine or salt water. The pearls consist to a large extent of aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Also included in beads are magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds, and phosphates.
  • the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods.
  • extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably.
  • Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the pearl proteins can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed.
  • the essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine.
  • the bead extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids these amino acids.
  • the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.
  • a preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates.
  • a most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls.
  • pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
  • one of the above-described pearl extracts is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight.
  • amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.
  • Silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.).
  • the raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together.
  • Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.
  • the essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids.
  • the sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins.
  • the essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr) ,
  • the water-insoluble fibroin belongs to the skieroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure.
  • the main components of the fibroin are glycine (44 wt.%), Alanine (26 % By weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight).
  • Another important structural feature of the fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.
  • Preference according to the invention can be used as active ingredients: native sericin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as
  • SiIk Hydrolyzed SiIk, a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl
  • Derivatives to 20 to 60 wt.%, The aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10 - 40 wt.% And the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt.% are included, with the The proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100 wt.%, And their mixtures.
  • According to the invention can also be used as active ingredients: native, converted into a soluble form fibroin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as the main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, the amino acid sequence Ser -Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, a mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl,
  • tyrosine and its derivatives are contained in amounts of from 0 to 25% by weight, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100% by weight, and mixtures thereof ,
  • both silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used simultaneously in the compositions according to the invention of the inventive composition, it may be preferred according to the invention that at least one of the two silk components, fibroin or sericin, is used in the native or, if appropriate, solubilized form. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.
  • the two silk protein hydrolysates are in the ratio of 10:90 to 70:30, in particular 15:85 to 50:50 and very particularly 20:80 be used to 40:60 based on their respective contents of active ingredient in the preparations of the invention.
  • the derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be prepared from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic Hydrolysis, be obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silicon, aminoacids, hydroxypropyltrimium hydrolyzed silica, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silica.
  • anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed silica, sodium lauroyl hydrolyzed silica or sodium stearoyl hydrolyzed silica.
  • the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products commercially available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed SiIk and Hydrolyzed SiIk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol.
  • compositions used according to the invention contain the silk protein hydroxysates and / or derivatives thereof in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.
  • protein hydrolysates Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • Another group of protein hydrolysates according to the invention are therefore cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimoni
  • the protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
  • compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • the skin which naturally also includes the scalp, leaves behind the treatment with these very particularly preferred components a much better-looking, more vital, stronger impression with significantly improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and in the dry state.
  • this drug affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and damaged hair, leads to a regulation of the fat balance, so that the thus treated skin and hair greases more slowly and not prone to over-greasing.
  • this ingredient has an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect.
  • the split hair is regenerated and repaired by these agents again. These ingredients are able to penetrate the hair and strengthen and repair the hair from the inside out. This "repair effect" can be demonstrated objectively by means of DSC measurements, for example, these effects can also be verified subjectively in the consumer test.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include vitamin B 1 (thiamine) vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • panthenol triacetate the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, the phosphate and the Succinate are included in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention additionally contain antimicrobial compounds.
  • Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such.
  • Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such.
  • the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ' hexamethylene bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide (“chlorhexidine”) in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, e.g. In the form of the acetate or gluconate.
  • the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines z.
  • suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the
  • Such combinations cause a pleasant fragrance of both the cosmetic composition, as well as the treated skin and the treated hair.
  • this active ingredient according to the invention also has a favorable influence on the moisture balance of the skin and the hair.
  • it shows an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian are used. Stinging nettles, hops, birch and burdock roots, for example, show particularly good hair-related effects.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • composition according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • rock crystal extract In addition to the plant extracts, a rock crystal extract has also recently been used in cosmetic compositions.
  • Rock crystal is a modification of silica.
  • Silica itself is also included in many other clays and earths as a companion material.
  • quartz is found in bentonite. Quartz in the form of various silicates is also used, for example, in homeopathic remedies, for example sodium aluminum silicate for the reduction of heartburn or also in the medicine of Ayurveda.
  • Sand which can be contaminated with quartz, finds use in cleansing cosmetic products as exfoliating body.
  • quartz has a mystical meaning. So the rock crystal is considered something special.
  • Contaminants are not understood to mean the traces of other elements embedded in them, which contribute to the color of the rose quartz, for example.
  • the term "quartz” understood silicates, phyllosilicates, talcs, spades, etc.
  • Finely ground quartz and an extract of finely ground quartz is used in cosmetic compositions to give the skin and hair a velvety, soft, pleasant feeling. Furthermore, the gloss of skin and hair is remarkably increased significantly. However, there is no undesirable stress on the skin and hair. Also on the hair subsequent treatments such as cold wave or dyeing processes are not only not adversely affected but there is no impairment.
  • the finely ground quartz, the quartz powder is obtained by conventional methods for comminution and grinding of rocks. Quartz powder is used especially in particle sizes from 0.5 ⁇ m up to 500 ⁇ m. Particular preference is given to particle sizes of from 0.5 to 250 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably from 10 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m.
  • the finely-milled quartz is extracted by means of protic solvents and the resulting quartz extract is used in the cosmetic compositions.
  • extraction agent for the preparation of said quartz extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • Underwater are to be understood here as demineralized water, as well as seawater and mineral water.
  • alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, iso-butanol, tert.
  • the invention also includes the teaching that, of course, a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water.
  • a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water.
  • the mineral waters include Evian, SpA, Leau de Vichy, etc.
  • any known methods such as hot extraction or other methods may be used.
  • a quartz extract thus obtained usually contains at least 1 to 100,000 ppm of silicon.
  • Preferred is an extract with a minimum amount of silicon of 10 ppm.
  • Particularly preferred is an extract with a content of silicon of at least 50 ppm.
  • an extract with a content of at least 100 ppm. Most preferred is a content of at least 200 ppm silicon.
  • the amount of silicon in the extract is determined by flame spectrometry in distilled water. If necessary, the quartz extract can be diluted with water glass to a constant minimum content of silicon be set. If water glass is used to set a constant silicon content, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract.
  • the quartz extract usually has a pH of from 4 to 11, preferably from 6 to 11, more preferably from 7 to 10, and most preferably from 7.5 to 9.5.
  • the pH value will be adjusted with mineral acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrogen halides, sulfuric acid and its salts, sulphurous acid and its salts, phosphorous acid and its salts, phosphoric acid and salts thereof or with organic acids Acids and their salts such as iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid made.
  • acids which also have complex-forming properties, may be preferred. These include, for example, phosphoric acid, iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts. Very particular preference is given to using phosphoric acid in the case of a necessary pH adjustment.
  • An example of a commercially available quartz extract is available under the name Crodarom ® rock crystal by Croda free in the trade.
  • compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • M penetration aids and / or swelling agents
  • These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber.
  • gencarbonates diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol , 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol , 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • compositions according to the invention are particularly well suited to deposit perfume oils or perfumes on the skin and hair in an increased amount. At the same time the perfume oils and fragrances remain much longer on the skin or the hair adhere. This leads to an increased acceptance of such compositions in the consumer.
  • These Results are particularly relevant to compositions such as shampoos, shower gels, cures, spa wraps, conditioners, leave-on hair treatments, styling agents, as well as hair fixative and firming agents.
  • compositions of the invention are perfumes.
  • perfumes are perfumes.
  • the excellent and completely surprising positive results of compositions containing the active compounds and perfumes according to the invention has already been described in detail above.
  • perfume means perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances. As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.
  • Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, chamomile ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate, jasmecyclate and benzylsalicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones such as the ionone, ° ⁇ -lsomethylionon and Methylcedrylketon, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, pheny- ethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams such as limonene and pinene.
  • fragrance oils which are most commonly used as aroma components, are useful as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are found, for example, in US Pat. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Dverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3 rd . Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997.
  • a fragrance In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, with molecular weight also playing an important role in addition to the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", “middle note or body” As the smell perception is based to a large extent on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance consists not only of volatile compounds, while the base note for the most part from less volatile , ie adherent fragrances.
  • Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, Arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil , Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copa ⁇ va balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil , Musk Grain
  • fragrances can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances.
  • These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, Bornyl acetate, bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol,
  • the lower-boiling fragrances include natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures.
  • Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.
  • boiling points of the individual fragrances are substantially below 300 ° C.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention wherein preferably at least 50% of the fragrances contained have a boiling point below 300 ° C., advantageously at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%. , in an even more advantageous manner at least 80%, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 90%, in particular even 100%.
  • Boiling points below 300 ° C. are advantageous because the fragrances in question would have too low a volatility at higher boiling points. However, in order to be able to "flow out" of the particle at least partially and to develop fragrance, a certain volatility of the fragrances is advantageous.
  • Unstable fragrances for the purposes of this invention can be identified by incorporating a perfume composition comprising at least 6 fragrances into activated / dehydrated zeolite X and storing the resulting sample for 24 hours at room temperature. Then the Fragrances extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography to determine the stability.
  • a fragrance is considered to be unstable in the context of this invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95 wt .-% of this perfume decomposed into degradation products, and in the extraction can not be provided again.
  • the unstable perfume in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.
  • perfume adsorbed in / on the particle ad / at least 4 advantageously at least 5, in a further advantageous manner at least 6, more preferably at least 7, even more preferably at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular at least Contains 10 different fragrances, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • the logP value of the perfume components adsorbed in / on the particle ad / is substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, more preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, in particular 90% of the perfume components fulfill this log requirement, then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present.
  • the logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the partition coefficient between n-octanol and water.
  • the octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the ratio between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol.
  • a perfume ingredient with higher partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic.
  • the conditions mentioned for the logP are advantageous because it ensures will make it possible to better retain the perfumes in the pores of the carrier material and also to better deposit on objects which are treated with the particles (for example, indirectly by treatment with a detergent formulation containing the particles of the invention).
  • the logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; For example, the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS) of Irvine, California, contains many such values along with references to the original literature.
  • the logP values can also be calculated, for example, with the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS.
  • Clog P the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS.
  • Clog-P values should also be used for hydrophobicity estimation if there are no experimental logP values for certain perfume ingredients.
  • the perfume can also be combined with a perfume fixative. It is believed that perfume fixatives can slow the exhalation of higher volatile fractions of perfume.
  • the perfume which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material comprises a perfume fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, musk (derivatives) and mixtures thereof, the fixative amount preferably being from 1 to 55% by weight. , Advantageously, 2 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 40 wt .-% of the total amount of perfume.
  • the particles contain a viscosity of liquids, in particular perfume-increasing agent, preferably PEG (polyethylene glycol), advantageously having a molecular weight of 400 to 2000, wherein the viscosity increasing agent in a preferred manner in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.15 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is contained, based on the particles.
  • PEG polyethylene glycol
  • the viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I:
  • n of about 5 to> 100,000 corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary.
  • the products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short).
  • the polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.
  • the particularly preferred polyethylene glycols include those having molecular weights between 400 and 2000.
  • polyethylene glycols which are present in a liquid state at room temperature and a pressure of 1 bar;
  • the perfumes are generally added in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, of the total composition.
  • the perfumes may be added to the compositions in liquid form, neat or diluted with a solvent for perfuming.
  • Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for.
  • ethanol isopropanol
  • diethylene glycol monoethyl ether glycerol
  • propylene glycol 1, 2-butylene glycol
  • dipropylene glycol diethyl phthalate
  • triethyl citrate isopropyl myristate, etc.
  • the perfumes for the compositions of the invention may be adsorbed to a carrier which provides both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product and a controlled release in use.
  • a carrier which provides both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product and a controlled release in use.
  • Such supports may include porous inorganic materials such as light sulfate, silica gels, zeolites, Gypsum, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete etc. or organic materials such as wood and cellulose-based materials.
  • perfume oils for the compositions according to the invention can also be microencapsulated, spray-dried, present as inclusion complexes or as extruded products and added in this form to the compositions to be perfumed.
  • the properties of the perfume oils modified in this way can be further optimized by so-called “coating” with suitable materials with a view to a more targeted release of fragrance, for which purpose preferably wax-like plastics, such as, for example, As polyvinyl alcohol can be used.
  • suitable materials such as, for example, As polyvinyl alcohol can be used.
  • compositions according to the invention may associate the composition of the invention with a stimulant such as confectionery or beverages.
  • a stimulant such as confectionery or beverages.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.
  • the ionogenic bitter substances have proved the nonionic superior, lonogenic bittering agents, preferably consisting of organic (s) cation (s) and organic (s) Anion (s), are therefore preferred for the inventive preparations.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances.
  • One such compound is commercially available for example under the trademark Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® available benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate.
  • Compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bittering agent is contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molding. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.
  • short-chain carboxylic acids can be used as an ingredient in the compositions.
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention in conjunction with a short-chain carboxylic acid, leads to improved skin smoothness and to an improved skin structure and a smoothed hair structure.
  • salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also includes the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts.
  • neutralized acids can also be used with alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • the sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred salts.
  • carboxylic acid as active ingredient from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.
  • the very particularly preferred short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention include the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids examples include glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • these acids are used in the form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.
  • amino acids which can be used as mixed salts with these hydroxycarboxylic acids are carnitine, taurine, histidine, lysine, arginine and ornithine.
  • a typical representative of the mixed salts according to the invention is, for example, carnitine tartrate.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups.
  • Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in position.
  • substituents are hydroxy, Alkoxy and amino groups, wherein the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids examples include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, Toluoylklare, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, Bicarbaminklare, 4,4 '-Dicyano-6, 6
  • n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical
  • dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33,291 deodorants are known which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids.
  • German Patent Application 35 03 618 means for washing and rinsing the hair are known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained.
  • German Patent Application 197 54 053 means for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects.
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization.
  • a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component.
  • Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils.
  • the monocarboxylic acid component in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred.
  • mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.
  • those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of a Molecule water are formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention.
  • such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, of which the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl- Ammonium salts are to be understood.
  • neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together in the compositions. It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.
  • the so-called edible acids as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention.
  • compositions are present in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 5% by weight.
  • a particularly diverse and interesting cosmetic active ingredient group are polyhydroxy compounds.
  • Polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other components of the invention may therefore be particularly preferred.
  • polyhydroxy compounds in the For the purposes of the invention all substances are understood which fulfill the definition in Römpp 's Lexikon der Chemie, 1999 edition, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • these include in particular: polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, for example trimethylolpropane, ethoxylates and / or propoxylates having from 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the abovementioned polyols,
  • monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.
  • oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.
  • polyols according to the invention examples include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, sorb
  • Preferred polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythrose, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose , Particular preference is given to using glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose. However, the use of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose is very particularly preferred
  • the active ingredient is at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups.
  • these compounds those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.
  • the (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.
  • polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s).
  • agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV)
  • k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means.
  • Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecaprop
  • Short chain polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long chain” polyalkylene glycol ethers have advantages.
  • Short or long chain refers in this context to the degree of polymerization of the polyalkylene glycol.
  • Particularly preferred are mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV) in which n is the number 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV) in which n represents the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5 : 1 to 1: 1.
  • Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain.
  • polystyrene resin examples include polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-butanediol , 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2,3-butanetriol, 1, 2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1, 2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediol
  • the polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 10% by weight.
  • Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Especially preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used:
  • aromatic alcohols such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,
  • Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde
  • Parabens for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben,
  • Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin
  • Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones, such as
  • Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites, Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride,
  • Citric acid lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid,
  • Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione,
  • Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated
  • the water activity in the compositions according to the invention can also be reduced to the extent that growth of microorganisms can no longer take place.
  • glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.
  • compositions according to the invention contribute to the preservation being possible in an outstanding manner with the mild preservative additives. But the complete abandonment of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.
  • the amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt.% And most preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt.% Based on the total amount of the composition ,
  • compositions of the invention are Deowirkstoffe.
  • Deodorants can not only be used in deodorants to prevent underarm sweating. They can also be used in skin care products to influence sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp.
  • the inventive compositions significantly increase analytically detectable the deposition of deodorant substances on the skin and hair. In the panel test, this is also noticeable through a significantly prolonged effect.
  • Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, COGNIS).
  • the substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors.
  • the cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes.
  • esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate,
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate,
  • Hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate.
  • Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol, which is marketed under the trade name Irgasan® by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proved to be particularly effective.
  • the active ingredient complex according to the invention can furthermore be used in coloring agents.
  • coloring agents are of course included as further ingredients dye precursors.
  • compositions are dye precursors.
  • dye precursors are particularly preferred.
  • Developer (X1) and coupler type (X2) oxidation dye precursors, natural and synthetic substantive dyes (Y) and precursors of naturally occurring dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of one or more of these groups As such, developer (X1) and coupler type (X2) oxidation dye precursors, natural and synthetic direct dyes (Y) and natural analog dye precursors, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of one or more of these groups may be used .
  • developer-type oxidation dye precursors (X1) are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, Diaminopyridinderivate, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4, 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy -2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-dia- minopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis- (4- aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol,
  • Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2 , 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • coupler-type oxidation dye precursors (X2) m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used.
  • coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4 - aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) - 4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives,
  • coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds and 1, 4-bis (.beta.-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1, 2,3,4 tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenz
  • Directly acting dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
  • These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg. As the Hydrochlori- de, sulfates and hydrobromides, are used.
  • amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids in turn, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • Both the oxidation dye precursors and the substantive dyes and the precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition, contain.
  • the advantage achieved by the composition according to the invention in conjunction with the dye precursors is a markedly improved deposition of the dye precursors on the hair.
  • the composition of the invention also causes faster penetration into the hair.
  • the desired hair color is formed faster.
  • the application time of the composition can be shortened by at least 10% with the same dyeing result. A shortening of the application time is possible with the combination according to the invention up to 40% with the same dyeing result. All of these effects are achieved with a simultaneously increased wash resistance of the formed hair color.
  • the invention includes the teaching that on the other hand, the concentration of dyes can be significantly reduced due to the effects achieved. On the one hand, this is economically very important, but on the other hand, this also means a considerable improvement in the dermatological compatibility of the entire composition.
  • a very particularly preferred composition of the invention therefore relates to cosmetic agents for coloring the skin and hair, containing the inventive Compositions and a dye precursor, as well as the use of this agent and a method for hair coloring or refreshing the hair coloring with this agent.
  • Hair dyes especially if the dyeing is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 1 1.
  • the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
  • ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate
  • oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred.
  • enzymes which enzymes are used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes are used, the electrons from suitable developer components ( Reductant) transferred to atmospheric oxygen.
  • Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
  • the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10.
  • Particularly preferred is the application of Hair dyes in a mildly alkaline environment.
  • the application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp.
  • After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed.
  • the washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.
  • the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component.
  • the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse.
  • the product is then rinsed and, if desired, shampooed again.
  • the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
  • an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10.
  • the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.
  • the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
  • metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
  • Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • compositions according to the invention may prove advantageous and further increase the synergistic effects of the compositions according to the invention, if penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are included. These substances can bring about a better penetration of active ingredients into the skin to be treated or the hair to be treated.
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, Water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.
  • dyes for staining the compositions the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Kosmetician Anlagenrbesch” of the Farbstoffkommission of the Irish Anlagenstician, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.
  • the pH of the preparations according to the invention can in principle be between 2 and 11.
  • the pH is selected and adjusted very selectively depending on the purpose and use of the composition according to the invention.
  • colorants for example, it is preferably between 5 and 11, values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred.
  • cleaning compositions it is for example between 4 and 7.5, preferably between 4 and 6.
  • bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • acids are used as acids.
  • By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism.
  • Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • the action of the active ingredient according to the invention in the compositions according to the invention can be further increased in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups.
  • amino compounds may be mentioned ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine.
  • these amines can also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids, such as, for example, ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride.
  • the amines are used together with the active compound according to the invention in ratios of from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.
  • Protic solvents such as, for example, water, and alcohols can also be present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the alcohols used are all physiologically unsuitable alcohols, for example methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof with one another.
  • the proportion of protic solvents in each case complements the composition according to the invention to 100 parts by weight.
  • At least 30% by weight of protic solvents, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 75% by weight, and most preferably at least 85% by weight, protic solvents are preferably present in the cosmetic compositions.
  • the UV filters (I) can be used.
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsilicylate (homosalates ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium - and triethanolamine (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is protected by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function, is replaced.
  • Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, Diphenylacrylic esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide, are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) X -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 are independently of one another 4 alkyl groups, R 3 is a or a benzyl group and X " for a physiologically acceptable anion
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 each represent a methyl group and R 3 represents either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV 283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques, en particulier des compositions à effet structurant pour fibres kératiniques, lesquelles préparations contiennent au moins deux polymères cationiques différents et une silicone hydrosoluble. Ces compositions permettent en particulier de faciliter le peignage et d'accroître simultanément le volume de la chevelure. Ces compositions s'appliquent par vaporisation de préférence sur fibres kératiniques humides ou sèches, le produit restant de préférence sur les fibres kératiniques jusqu'au prochain lavage.
EP07822561A 2006-12-21 2007-11-13 Produit capillaire à effet structurant composé de silicones hydrosolubles et de polymères cationiques sélectionnés Ceased EP2056785A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102006061863A DE102006061863A1 (de) 2006-12-21 2006-12-21 Haarkonditionierende Mittel mit ausgewählten kationischen Polymeren und wasserlöslichen Silikonen
PCT/EP2007/062292 WO2008077683A2 (fr) 2006-12-21 2007-11-13 Produit capillaire à effet structurant composé de silicones hydrosolubles et de polymères cationiques sélectionnés

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EP2056785A2 true EP2056785A2 (fr) 2009-05-13

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EP07822561A Ceased EP2056785A2 (fr) 2006-12-21 2007-11-13 Produit capillaire à effet structurant composé de silicones hydrosolubles et de polymères cationiques sélectionnés

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US (1) US20100047202A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2056785A2 (fr)
AU (1) AU2007338275A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102006061863A1 (fr)
RU (1) RU2009127618A (fr)
WO (1) WO2008077683A2 (fr)

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20100047202A1 (en) 2010-02-25
DE102006061863A1 (de) 2008-06-26
RU2009127618A (ru) 2011-01-27
AU2007338275A1 (en) 2008-07-03
WO2008077683A3 (fr) 2009-12-10
WO2008077683A2 (fr) 2008-07-03

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