WO2006018328A2 - Laque capillaire concentree - Google Patents

Laque capillaire concentree Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006018328A2
WO2006018328A2 PCT/EP2005/012153 EP2005012153W WO2006018328A2 WO 2006018328 A2 WO2006018328 A2 WO 2006018328A2 EP 2005012153 W EP2005012153 W EP 2005012153W WO 2006018328 A2 WO2006018328 A2 WO 2006018328A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
copolymer
peg
polymers
hair
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PCT/EP2005/012153
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2006018328A3 (fr
Inventor
Winfried Emmerling
Uwe Bergemann
Original Assignee
Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Priority claimed from DE200410040172 external-priority patent/DE102004040172A1/de
Priority claimed from PCT/EP2004/009260 external-priority patent/WO2005018588A2/fr
Application filed by Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien filed Critical Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority to EP05807607A priority Critical patent/EP1778168A2/fr
Publication of WO2006018328A2 publication Critical patent/WO2006018328A2/fr
Publication of WO2006018328A3 publication Critical patent/WO2006018328A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a preparation for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair in the form of a spray and the use of this preparation for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.
  • Keratinic fibers especially human hair
  • the treatments which serve for a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair, play an important role.
  • Hairsprays usually contain synthetic polymers as a shaping component.
  • Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism.
  • the setting active ingredients which are usually polymeric compounds, can be incorporated into conventional hair cleansing or conditioning agents. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to apply them in the form of special agents such as hair fixatives, hair gels, hair waxes or hair sprays.
  • Polymeric compounds are used in cosmetics many times and with increasing importance. They have many functions and effects, often they are themselves multifunctional and show in a single structure several desired effects for the cosmetic product in question. So can be adjusted specifically to the desired rheological properties with polymers cosmetic agents. For example, they can bind water and thereby build up viscosity. At the same time, bound water in cosmetic products also means a reduction in water activity, which may be important for the contamination of the agent concerned. If the activity of the free water is too low, no germs can dissolve and develop in it. The agent in question then does not have to be preserved at all or at least much less. multifunctional means in this context that the use of a polymeric raw material in a composition fulfills several functions simultaneously.
  • WO 96/19971 discloses terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and their use in hair-setting compositions, in particular in aerosol sprays and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load.
  • WO 96/19967 discloses copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and their use in hair-setting compositions, in particular in aerosol sprays and pump sprays. These Polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived.
  • WO 96/19966 discloses terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, 3-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and C 4 -C 32 -alkyl methacrylate and their use in hair-setting compositions, in particular in aerosol sprays and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived.
  • EP 1 075 832 discloses terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and their use in hair-setting compositions, in particular in aerosol sprays and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good firming properties but give the hair a relatively rough feel. In the application of these compositions, in particular the softness of the hair, the gloss and the difficult combing of the hair is perceived as disadvantageous.
  • EP 0 074 191 discloses terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and dialkyldiaminomethacrylates and their use in hair-setting compositions, in particular in aerosol sprays and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good firming properties, but lend the hair a relatively rough grip and a relatively high load.
  • EP 0 674 899 B1 discloses deodorants in the form of aerosols which, for environmental reasons, are packed in containers as small as possible.
  • the formulations were thickened. Polymers are used to formulate hair conditioning agents. Now, when these polymers are concentrated, the formulation becomes significantly more viscous. This in turn leads to sticking and blockages of the valve. In addition, too much product is discharged, so that in addition due to the high amount of product on the hair further disadvantages, such as extreme stickiness, arise. If, conversely, the outlet opening of the valve is correspondingly reduced, bonding and clogging of the valve are even more likely.
  • the film-forming and / or setting polymer (A) is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 3.0 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3.0 to 30% by weight, most preferably in an amount of from 3.0 to 20 wt%, and most preferably in an amount of 5.0 to 10 wt%.
  • film-forming and / or setting polymers may also be present in the composition according to the invention. These film-forming and / or setting polymers may be both permanent and temporary cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric.
  • the present invention also encompasses the recognition that, when using at least two film-forming and / or setting polymers, these can of course have different charges.
  • an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer is used in common with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • the use of at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or setting polymers is also preferred.
  • a particular embodiment may in turn additionally contain at least one further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • film-forming polymers are meant those polymers which, when dried, form a continuous film on the skin, the hair or leave the nails.
  • film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particular preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • film-forming polymers are also understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • Suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers made up of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable examples are homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.
  • Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Polyvinyl alcohols, for example, under the trade names Elvanol ® by Du Pont or Vinol ® 523/540 of the Company Air Products are distributed as well
  • Polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers for example, sold under the trade names Ucon® Union Carbide. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume, the hair fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • These so-called setting polymers are at the same time film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is, water. As a result, the limp drooping of the strands of hair is reduced and thus a long-lasting hairstyle structure and preservation is guaranteed.
  • the test method for this is often the so-called curl retention test applied.
  • These polymeric substances can also be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is, show several applications-wise desirable effects, numerous polymers can be found in several groups on the mode of action, as well as in the CTFA Handbook. Because of the importance of polymers in particular, they should therefore be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names. In this list of very particularly preferably used according to the invention Of course, polymers can also be found again, especially the cationic polymers.
  • Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copoly
  • VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer VP / DMAPA acrylate copolymer
  • VP / hexadecene copolymer VPA / A copolymer
  • VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymer Yeast Palmitate.
  • Polyurethane-1, polyvinylcaprolactam and VPA / A copolymer Particularly preferred is a composition of the invention, a mixture of acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer and
  • the cationic polymers according to the invention can be both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties.
  • the suitable cationic polymers are preferably hair-setting and / or hair-conditioning polymers.
  • polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium,
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, for example vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, Propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quatemium-80).
  • cationic polymers which may be included in the composition of the invention is, for example
  • cationic polymers are for example sold by the company BASF, Germany, under the trade name Luviquat ® HM 550 displaced copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 displaced vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Another preferred cationic polymer is a homopolymer of the general formula (C1-I), R 1
  • R 1 -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X ' is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (C1-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers.
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives, such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, Arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of Propylengly- KOL with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene lene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene - ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (C1-I) as the non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C- ⁇ - 4 -alkyl and methacrylic acid CI_ 4 -alkyl.
  • the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as about 50% nonaqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92.
  • Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group.
  • Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal.
  • the N-containing silicone as inventive cationic polymer (C1) preferably selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer.
  • Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quatemium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups.
  • R OH or CH 3
  • X alkyl group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl
  • A, B and C copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks.
  • Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, isolaureth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on a a'min-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%)
  • the molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000.
  • the amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.
  • the silicone as cationic polymer is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt. % used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (G1-III) GOB-N + R a R b R c X '
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
  • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 C atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R 0 is preferably at most 20 is;
  • X is a common counter anion and is preferably chloride.
  • a cationic cellulose is sold under the name of Polymer JR ® from Amerchol and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees.
  • Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol.
  • One suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the trade name Jaguar ® and has the INCI designation guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • Particularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives.
  • the chitosan derivatives are an example of a cationic polymer which has pronounced properties as a film former.
  • the chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins.
  • the molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol.
  • a low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable.
  • the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol.
  • the degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 to 99%.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold for example by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan, under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%.
  • a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%.
  • Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. More chitosan 101 freely available under the trade names Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / commercially.
  • the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form.
  • the degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.
  • neutralizing agents it is possible in principle to use all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids, such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid, among others, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.
  • inorganic or organic acids such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid, among others, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially, - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Suitable cationic polymers are the so-called “temporary cationic" polymers, which usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.
  • amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO "
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide, and represents two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide, and represents two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A H (G 3 -I) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a Methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are independently alkyl groups of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
  • the composition according to the invention can be specifically influenced in particular on the setting, avivating and antistatic effect if anionic polymers are also formulated.
  • the anionic polymers are, inter alia, anionic polymers which contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • Homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2 which is available, for example, by the name Rheothik ® 11-80 commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are Acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic ester, methacrylic ester,
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-methyl vinyl ether maleic acid copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • Further suitable anionic polymers according to the invention include:
  • Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers such as those under the names Resyn ® (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset ® (BASF) and Gafset ® (GAF) are commercially available.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers obtainable for example under the trade name Luviflex ® (BASF).
  • a preferred polymer is that available under the name Luviflex VBM-35 ® (BASF) vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
  • polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, a compound (V1) with at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per
  • V2 a di- or polyisocyanate
  • the compounds (V1) may be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols.
  • the compounds having more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually used only in small amounts in combination with a large excess of compounds having 2 active hydrogen atoms.
  • Examples of compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1, 2 and 1, 3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -Propylenglykole, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane, Hexamethylenediamine and ⁇ , ⁇ -diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.
  • lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide
  • Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane Hexamethylenediamine and ⁇ , ⁇ -diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.
  • Polyurethanes in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention.
  • polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.
  • Polyesterols are usually obtained by modifying the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.
  • the compounds (V2) used are predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylene di (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate.
  • polyurethanes used according to the invention may also contain building blocks such as, for example, diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • building blocks such as, for example, diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Dialkylolecarboxylic acids such as, for example, dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • further building blocks there is no fundamental restriction as to whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks.
  • Polyurethane which can be characterized as follows, has proven to be particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases.
  • compositions according to the invention if the polyurethanes were not mixed directly with the other components but were introduced in the form of aqueous dispersions.
  • aqueous dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, in particular about 35-45%, and are also available commercially.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, such as are for example under theress ⁇ sign Culminal ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) expelled.
  • siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Suitable are both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes, 1 being understood as nonvolatile siloxanes such compounds whose boiling point is above atmospheric pressure above 200 0 C.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for example polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for example polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case one ionic and one amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably formulated in an aqueous, an alcoholic or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium with preferably at least 8, particularly preferably at least 10 percent by weight of water.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the agent according to the invention can be present in a pH range from 2 to 11. Particularly preferred is the pH range between 2 and 8.
  • additional co-solvents may be organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 0 C in an amount from 0.1 to 15 percent by weight, preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 percent by weight.
  • the preparations according to the invention are preferably a blowing agent.
  • compositions of the invention as aerosol sprays propellants must be used.
  • inventively preferred blowing agents are selected from the hydrocarbons having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons and mixtures of these substances.
  • Very particularly preferred propellants are propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether and the mixtures of these aforementioned propellant gases in each case with each other.
  • most preferred propellants are dimethyl ether, hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.
  • preferred propellants are n-butane and propane.
  • the blowing agent is selected so that it can simultaneously serve as a solvent for other ingredients such as oil and wax components, the fatty substances (D).
  • the propellant can then serve as a solvent for these latter components, if they are soluble at 20 ° C to at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the propellant in this.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the said hydrocarbons, dimethyl ethers or mixtures of said hydrocarbons with dimethyl ether as the only one Propellant.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellant of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the fluorocarbons.
  • the propellant gases are preferably in amounts of 5 to 98% by weight, preferably 10 to 98% by weight and more preferably 20 to 98% by weight, very particularly preferably 40 to 80% by weight, in each case based on the total aerosol composition included.
  • compositions of the invention may be packaged in commercial aerosol cans.
  • the cans can be tinplate or aluminum.
  • the cans can be internally coated to minimize the risk of corrosion.
  • compositions of the present invention are used as a non-aerosol spray application, no propellant gas is included.
  • the spray heads must always be selected according to the required spray rates.
  • the cans are equipped with a suitable spray head. Depending on the spray head, discharge rates based on fully filled cans of 0.1 g / s to 5.0 g / s are possible.
  • the spray rate is determined so that a filled with propellant gas and the corresponding composition and sealed with the relevant valve aerosol can at room temperature (about 23 0 C) is first weighed.
  • the can, including its contents, is shaken vigorously by hand ten times, so that the contents mix well.
  • the valve of the vertical can is actuated for 10 seconds. Thereafter, weigh again.
  • the process is carried out 5 times in succession and the statistical mean is formed from the results.
  • the difference between the two weighings is the spray rate per 10 seconds. This can be determined by simply dividing the spray rate per second.
  • the spraying mechanism is actuated 10 times. Under the spray rate in the latter case is the average understood quantity applied per spray (pump surge). Spray rates of 0.1 to 0.5 g / s are preferred. Spray rates of 0.1 to 0.4 g / s are particularly preferred.
  • the spray pattern is decisively influenced by the valve and its nature. If, for example, in a hair spray formulation, the film former is increased up to five times compared to a conventional formulation, the spraying rate already discussed and to be avoided are, in addition to the increased viscosities of the formulation to be taken into account and to be avoided, essential features to be considered for the formulation. In addition, however, in particular the spray pattern, that is, the opening cone of the valve, and the droplet size must be observed. If the opening cone has too large an opening angle, then the product is applied to a too small hair surface at a usual distance of the spray can from the user's head of about 10 to 40 cm.
  • the opening cone is too large, so that a too large hair surface with the. Composition is treated. It has now been found that the opening cone must ideally be between 25 ° and 65 °. An angle of 30 ° to 60 ° is preferred. Very particular preference is given to opening cones between 35 ° and 50 °.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in particular by the fact that the average droplet size during spraying is less than 40 ⁇ m. Preferably, the mean particle size is less than 38 microns. Surprisingly, it has been found that the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be sprayed reliably despite the high proportion of film-forming and / or setting polymer, if a corresponding small mean droplet size is present. Due to the high concentration of active ingredient and the small droplet size during spraying ensures that an aerosol can containing the hair treatment agent, when compared to conventional hair sprays unchanged handling by the consumer removed a smaller amount of the agent, but the same firming effect is achieved.
  • the mean droplet size is determined using a Masterizer, Series 2600 Droplet and Particle Size Analyzer, Malvern Laser Diffractometer. For this purpose, the sample is sprayed at a defined distance through the light beam of the laser and determined on the basis of the laser diffraction particle size distribution.
  • the viscosity of the formulation to be sprayed can also show an influence, depending on the concentration of the film-forming polymers.
  • valves are also known with the aid of which even gels can be sprayed.
  • the viscosities of the formulations are less than 5000 mPas measured according to Brookfield with spindle 3 at 20 rpm and 25 0 C.
  • the viscosities of the formulations are measured before the addition of propellant gas. It may be particularly preferred if the viscosities are less than 2500 mPas and very particularly preferably less than 1000 mPas.
  • the problem of sticking the valves in addition to the targeted selection of the film-forming polymers can also be positively influenced by a corresponding careful processing, material selection and / or pretreatment of the valves. It is essential that all parts of the valve that come into contact with the composition have as smooth a surface as possible. The smoother the surface, the less the composition can adhere to it by adhesion. Thus, a bonding of the nozzle is counteracted.
  • the achievement of particularly smooth surfaces are known in the art, for example by a Design of the surface in the form of nanoparticles to achieve a lotus blossom effect or a polishing of the surfaces such as an electropolishing.
  • the hair is to be shaped into a specific hairstyle. For this it may be necessary to positively influence the hair structure and hair condition. For example, it may be advantageous if the Kämmwiderites are low during the construction of the hairstyle. Furthermore, the hairstyle formed should show a certain luster or colorful shimmering effects. The hair should cause a vital impression in a hot condition. It is therefore preferred to incorporate personal care substances into the composition according to the invention.
  • Suitable compounds according to the present invention as hair-care compounds are described in more detail below.
  • the first group of active ingredients are fatty substances (D).
  • Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875
  • isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • Fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably C 1 0 - C22 and most preferably C12 - C22 carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol CS ®, ® Novol, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® 24 available for purchase.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • the invention also Wollwachsalkohole as drawings for example under the Be ⁇ can Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® are commercially available, can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are spielnem available over the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which can increase the action of the composition according to the invention include, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ⁇ -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 -fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of industrial methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • Isononanklad C16-18 alkyl ester
  • Cegesoft ® 24 2-ethylhexyl palmitate
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • IPP Rilanit ® isopropyl palmitate
  • IPP Rilanit ® 1 oleyl Oleate
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestat and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2- Ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-30% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • the agents used according to the invention comprise surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X
  • n is from 1 to 10
  • X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 are each independently hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II) R 7 CO (Al k O) n SO 3 M (E1-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, monog
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride.
  • R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described for example in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE -A1 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO H or -SOs ⁇ group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.
  • betaines include C8 to C18 alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, L'auryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine,
  • Lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine laurylbis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts and also the C8 to C18 fatty acid alkylamidobetaines, such as, for example, US Pat
  • Kokosfett yarnreamidopropylbetain which is sold, for example, in the form of a 30% aqueous solution under the trade name Tego ® betaine L7 from Goldschmidt AG and the N-Kokosfett7:30reamidoethyl-N- [2- (carboxymethoxy) ethyl] - glycerol (CTFA name: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate ), which is marketed for example in the form of a 50% aqueous solution under the trade name Miranol ® C2M by the company Miranol Chemical Co. Inc.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C 8 -C 2 -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule, and capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl-amidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group.
  • Such compounds are, for example Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, with a methyl or C-2 - C 6 - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 bis 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C-Ato ⁇ men in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (E4-I)
  • R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4
  • Carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20,
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, Zuckerfettklareester and addition products of ethylene oxide
  • R alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyalkenyl, aminoalkyl, aminoalkenyl, preferably having 8 to 30 C atoms, preferably 8 to 22 C atoms.
  • the pyrrolidone derivative according to the general formula (E4-II) can also be used in the form of its salt, preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate (DMS) or as alkyl halide.
  • Particularly suitable pyrrolidone derivatives may be selected from the group comprising:
  • N-lauryl such as Surfadone LP-300 ® (ISP) and / or N- Caprylylpyrrolidon as Surfadone LP-100 ® (ISP) and / or N-methylpyrrolidone as Flouwet ® EA 093 (Clariant).
  • the pyrrolidone derivative (E4-II) is used in an amount of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10 % By weight used.
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-III) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and OH-goglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a certain alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From the point of view of application, those alkyl and / or alkenylolgoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from may be derived alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference is made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, as represented by the formula (E4-V): R 7 CO-NR 8 -CH 2 - (CH-OH) 4 -CH 2 OH (E4-V)
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-V) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid,
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-V) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • nonionic surfactants the alkylene oxide addition products to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have been found. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be used in the compositions used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent to be included. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.
  • Very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the pyrrolidone derivatives.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • cationic surfactants are, in particular, tetraalkylammonium compounds, amidoamines or else esterquats.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, triethylmethylammonium chloride, hydroxyethyl hydroxycetyl dimmonium chlorides and those listed under the INCI names Quatemium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-ment are, in particular, tetraalkylammonium compounds, amidoamine
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • R 15 and R 16 are each independently hydrogen or R 14 CO
  • R 15 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH 2 CH 2 O) m4 H Group, m1, m2 and m3 in total for O or numbers from 1 to 12, m4 for numbers from 1 to 12 and Y for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • esterquats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof , as They occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils. Preference is given to using technical C 12/18 coconut fatty acids and, in particular, partially hardened d 16 mg tallow or palm fatty acids and also elaidic acid C 16/18 fatty acid cuts.
  • the fatty acids and the triethanolamine in a molar ratio of 1, 1: 1 to 3: 1 can be used.
  • an employment ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1, has proven particularly advantageous.
  • the preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1, 5-1, 9 and are derived from technical C1 6/18 tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine value from 0 to 40) from.
  • quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (E5-I) have proved to be particularly advantageous, in which R 14 is CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R 15 is R 15 CO, R 16 is hydrogen, R 17 is a methyl group, m1, m2 and m3 is 0 and Y is methyl sulfate.
  • quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (E5-II) are also suitable as esterquats.
  • R 18 CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 19 for hydrogen or R 18 CO
  • R 20 and R 21 independently of one another represent alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • m 5 and m 6 in total for O or numbers of 1 to 12
  • Y again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines of the formula (E5- III) should be mentioned as a further group of suitable esterquats.
  • R 22 CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 23 for hydrogen or R 22 CO
  • R 24 , R 25 and R 26 independently of one another represent alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • m 7 and m 8 in total for O or numbers from 1 to 12
  • X again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • esterquats are substances in which the ester is replaced by an amide bond and which are preferably based on diethylenetriamine of the formula (E5-IV),
  • R 27 is CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 28 is hydrogen or R 27 CO
  • R 29 and R 30 are independently alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • Y is again halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • Amidesterquats are available for example under the brand Incroquat® (Croda) in the market.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants (E5) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.
  • cation-active polymers are furthermore particularly advantageously suitable as hair-care substances.
  • the film former, the thickening polymer or both may already be cationic.
  • a cationic compound is a substance that has substantivity to human hair due to cationic or cationizable groups, especially primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups.
  • Suitable cationic substances are selected from cationic polymers, silicone compounds with cationic or cationizable groups, cationically derivatized proteins or protein hydrolysates and betaine. Since all cationic polymers have previously been described in detail, with the exception of the cationic protein derivatives, reference is made to what has been described above.
  • Cationized protein hydrolysates are among the cationic substances, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or Algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are understood to mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationically derivatized protein hydrolysates contain one or two long C8 to C22 alkyl chains and correspondingly two or one short C1 to C4 alkyl chains. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) above and commercially available products mentioned: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silicon, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / My
  • One embodiment of the present invention may include eye-visible, optically visible particles having a particle size of 0.1 to 3 mm in the composition. These particles are mechanically destroyed during application from the packaging.
  • microparticles filled or unfilled may also be used in the composition of the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active agent from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation.
  • Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids.
  • the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylate Copolymer AMP Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydro
  • the effect of the composition according to the invention by emulsifiers (F) can be increased.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed, like surfactants, from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic moiety.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form OAW emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenz perennial- and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994. "Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group at C atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • Phospholipids include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
  • Fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as Polyglycerinpoly- 12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH), linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C - atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca , Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of from 3 to 20, according to the methods described in the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 5-18 may be particularly preferred according to the invention. Very particular preference may be given to emulsifiers having an HLB value of from 10 to 15.
  • protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives may be present in the preparations used according to the invention.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. It is likewise possible to use derivatives of the protein tetrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolysates or their derivatives are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • UV filters (I) can give further advantages with regard to the structure of the hair and thus advantages with regard to combability, gloss or volume.
  • the hair is protected against the influences of the UV filter UV light protected.
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties.
  • all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetic sector are suitable, whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range.
  • UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobrom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
  • the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble is to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, in water.
  • these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%).
  • the use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • Group can be derived in principle from the known, usable in the cosmetics sector, above UV filters in which a group in the
  • the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) X -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X ' , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 are independently of one another 4 alkyl groups, R 3 is a Ci ⁇ alkyl group or a benzyl group and X 'is a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 is in each case a methyl group and R 3 is either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially obtainable compounds Zimtklareamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the effect of the combination according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen carries a 4 alkyl groups to three C r to C are preferred.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) it has also proven to be advantageous to add vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) to the compositions according to the invention. It may be preferred to select only those vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives, which are soluble only in alcohol and / or alcohol - water mixtures.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • panthenol pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the compounds of the vitamin Bs type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6af?) - 2-oxohexa-hydrothienol [3,4-o-imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • According to the invention are especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, valerian, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot , Lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
  • Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, valerian, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • penetration aids and / or swelling agents are contained. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber.
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, Benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as, for example 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • short-chain carboxylic acids can cooperate in a supportive manner with the combination according to the invention.
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups.
  • Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particular preference is given to substituents in the D position.
  • substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are also the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids examples include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, Toluoylklare, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, Bicarbaminklare, 4,4 '-Dicyano-6, 6
  • dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) are known in the literature.
  • German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 discloses deodorizing agents which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids.
  • German Patent Application 35 03 618 means for washing and rinsing the hair are known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained.
  • German Patent Application 197 54 053 means for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects.
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization.
  • a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component.
  • Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils.
  • the monocarboxylic acid component in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred.
  • isomer mixtures are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.
  • those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition are also usable according to the invention a molecule of water is formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention.
  • such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also include the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts.
  • neutralized acids can be used in the context of the invention with alkaline-reacting amino acids, for example arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active compound (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.
  • polyhydroxy compounds are used as active ingredient with the other components according to the invention.
  • polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning all substances which fulfill the definition in Römpp 's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD-ROM edition of 1999, Verlag Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups. In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:
  • Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups and having a carbon chain of from 2 to 30 carbon atoms for example trimethylolpropane
  • monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,
  • oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.
  • Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain.
  • polystyrene resin examples include polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-butanediol , 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2,3-butanetriol, 1, 2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1, 2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediol
  • polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, Allose, altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose,
  • the polyols (B) according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 % By weight up to 10% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention may associate with a stimulant.
  • a stimulant especially in children, an oral intake or swallowing of the In principle, composition can not be completely ruled out.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.
  • the ionogenic bitter substances have proved superior to the nonionic, lonogenic bitter substances, preferably consisting of organic cation (s) and organic (s) Anion (s), are therefore preferred for the inventive preparations.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances.
  • One such compound is commercially available for example under the trademark Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® available benzyldiethyl ((2,6 Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bittering agent is contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molding. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.
  • the emulsion stabilizing polymers can be advantageously used.
  • the stabilization of an emulsion can be achieved in various ways.
  • polymers can be used which influence the viscosity of the emulsion.
  • Polymers can influence the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity is based affecting function on its solubility in water or its hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems.
  • Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer , Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates ⁇ / inyl Isodecanoate Crosspol
  • emulsion-stabilizing polymers can advantageously be used as viscosity-influencing polymers. These are understood to mean polymers which essentially support the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively affecting the continuous or disperse phase. This positive influence may be due to electrical repulsion and an increase in viscosity or film formation on the droplet surface.
  • Examples of such polymers are Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino Acrylates / CIO-SO Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Aicaligenes Polysaccharides, AIIyI Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummi
  • compositions according to the invention are thickening of the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase.
  • lipid phase polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels.
  • Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer,
  • Terephthalates polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates, polyisobutenes, polyisoprenes, polypentenes,
  • Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer.
  • Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example
  • nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
  • dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-
  • Fatty alcohols in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • fiber-structure-improving active substances in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • paraffin oils such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
  • quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • - Reducing agents such as Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and ⁇ -mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • composition according to the invention is carried out in a form which allows the spraying of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can be used as an aerosol, as a non-aerosol spray lotion, which is used by means of a mechanical device for spraying, as an aerosol foam or as a non-aerosol foam, which in combination with a suitable mechanical device for foaming the composition is present.
  • a suitable application form is an aerosol and / or non-aerosol spray application.
  • the agent according to the invention is sprayed by means of a suitable mechanically operated spraying device.
  • mechanical spraying devices are meant those devices which allow the spraying of a liquid without the use of a propellant.
  • a suitable mechanical spraying device for example, a spray pump or provided with a spray valve elastic container in which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is filled under pressure, wherein the elastic container expands and from the means due to the contraction of the elastic container upon opening of the spray valve continuously is used.
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of a firming hair foam (mousse), it contains at least one customary foaming substance known for this purpose.
  • the agent is foamed with or without the aid of propellants or chemical blowing agents and incorporated as a foam in the hair and left without rinsing in the hair.
  • An inventive hair foam has as an additional component a chemical blowing agent and / or a mechanical device for foaming the composition.
  • mechanical foaming devices are meant those devices which allow the foaming of a liquid with or without the use of a blowing agent.
  • a suitable mechanical foaming device for example, a commercially available pump foamer or an aerosol foam head can be used.
  • any corresponding aerosol valve can be used, which allows the spray rate preferred according to the invention and the corresponding droplet sizes. It may be advantageous if the valve opening has a diameter of at most 0.4 mm. An opening of 0.35 mm is preferred. Very particularly preferred are valve openings of at most 0.3 mm.
  • Corresponding aerosol valves are described, for example, in the patents US Pat. Nos. 4,152,416, 3 083 917, 3 083 918, 3 544 258. Such valves can be obtained commercially, for example, from the companies Seaquist Perfect Dispensing GmbH or Coster Technologie Speciali spa. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the valve is the Ariane type valve.
  • valve valve M of the company Seaquist used. It may be particularly preferred if this valve is used together with a special throttling.
  • the throttling is located either in the star of the valve or in the spray head.
  • Another particularly preferred embodiment uses as a valve valve with side bore, as offered for example by Coster under the type designation K 125 SL 184/3/6.
  • Aerosol container from Alumonoblocdosen, but also from plastics such as PET or glass can be.
  • any spray pump can be used, which allows the Spryingate invention.
  • Corresponding systems are commercially available, for example, under the name Calmar Mark Il from Calmar Inc. Examples

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des concentrés de laque capillaire, caractérisés par l'utilisation d'agents filmogènes déterminés et de valves spéciales.
PCT/EP2005/012153 2004-08-18 2005-08-10 Laque capillaire concentree WO2006018328A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP05807607A EP1778168A2 (fr) 2004-08-18 2005-08-10 Laque capillaire concentree

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200410040172 DE102004040172A1 (de) 2004-08-18 2004-08-18 Kompakthaarspray
DE102004040172.1 2004-08-18
PCT/EP2004/009260 WO2005018588A2 (fr) 2004-08-18 2004-08-18 Laque capillaire compacte
EPPCT/EP2004/009260 2004-08-18

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2006018328A2 true WO2006018328A2 (fr) 2006-02-23
WO2006018328A3 WO2006018328A3 (fr) 2006-06-22

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PCT/EP2005/012153 WO2006018328A2 (fr) 2004-08-18 2005-08-10 Laque capillaire concentree

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010009953A3 (fr) * 2008-07-21 2011-04-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit coiffant souple assurant une tenue forte
GB2550988A (en) * 2015-12-15 2017-12-06 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Agent and method for temporarily deforming keratin-containing fibers
GB2550990A (en) * 2015-12-15 2017-12-06 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Agent and method for temporary shaping of keratin-containing fibers
WO2023247794A1 (fr) 2022-06-24 2023-12-28 Nouryon Chemicals International B.V. Polymères filmogènes d'alcool polyvinylique pour formulations d'écran solaire à base d'alcool et leurs procédés d'utilisation

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3137416A (en) * 1961-03-15 1964-06-16 Aerosol Tech Inc Composition for aerosol dispenser consisting of two immiscible liquid phases
DE2832451A1 (de) * 1977-07-28 1979-02-08 Unilever Nv Haarspray
US5068099A (en) * 1990-01-16 1991-11-26 S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Hair spray package with low volatile organic compound emission

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
None
See also references of EP1778168A2

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010009953A3 (fr) * 2008-07-21 2011-04-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit coiffant souple assurant une tenue forte
US8329152B2 (en) 2008-07-21 2012-12-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Smooth styling agents
GB2550988A (en) * 2015-12-15 2017-12-06 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Agent and method for temporarily deforming keratin-containing fibers
GB2550990A (en) * 2015-12-15 2017-12-06 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Agent and method for temporary shaping of keratin-containing fibers
WO2023247794A1 (fr) 2022-06-24 2023-12-28 Nouryon Chemicals International B.V. Polymères filmogènes d'alcool polyvinylique pour formulations d'écran solaire à base d'alcool et leurs procédés d'utilisation
WO2023247793A1 (fr) 2022-06-24 2023-12-28 Nouryon Chemicals International B.V. Polymères filmogènes d'alcool polyvinylique pour formulations de fixation des cheveux à base d'alcool et leurs procédés d'utilisation

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