EP1691772A1 - Agent cosmetique volumisant - Google Patents

Agent cosmetique volumisant

Info

Publication number
EP1691772A1
EP1691772A1 EP04765156A EP04765156A EP1691772A1 EP 1691772 A1 EP1691772 A1 EP 1691772A1 EP 04765156 A EP04765156 A EP 04765156A EP 04765156 A EP04765156 A EP 04765156A EP 1691772 A1 EP1691772 A1 EP 1691772A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
copolymer
peg
hair
groups
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP04765156A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jörg KAHRE
Bernd Richters
Winfried Emmerling
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1691772A1 publication Critical patent/EP1691772A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Hair treatment agents that give the hair more volume and hold are known.
  • the cosmetic polymers usually used for these purposes show good strengthening properties in aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic solutions, which deform and strengthen the hair more or less well after use and which can also give the hair more volume. Often, however, this effect does not last long and the desired volume effect is sometimes lost when you comb your hair.
  • the hairstyle collapses at least partially within a few hours, ie the volume effect does not last for a whole day from morning to evening but at most up to about 3 hours.
  • setting or bulking polymers frequently have undesirable side effects, which are noticeable in the fact that the treated hair has too rough a handle, too high a load or insufficient elasticity or there are too many visible residues on the hair. Inadequate washability after using these hair treatment products is still a problem.
  • These setting agents which are usually polymeric compounds, can be incorporated into conventional hair cleaners or conditioners. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to use them in the form of special agents such as hair fixers, hair gels, hair waxes or hair sprays.
  • a crucial deficiency of today's hair-setting agents is, in particular, inadequate combability in wet hair, especially in the area of the hair tips. Due to its lifespan, hair is usually the longest exposed egg flow, particularly in the area of the hair tips. This area in particular therefore requires special attention when developing hair cosmetic compositions.
  • Today's hair-setting agents lead to satisfactory combability, especially of wet hair, in the area of the hairline and the hair lengths, but they fail in the area of the hair tips. This sense of consumers by an increased resistance to combing in the toe area, which can even lead up to the 'Häarbruch while combing the hair. In this case, the knotted and unsightly looking and possibly even matted hair tips are in the comb. Neither cationic compounds nor film-forming polymers can sufficiently influence the combability of the hair in the area of the hair tips.
  • Polymeric compounds are widely used in cosmetic products and are becoming increasingly important. They have numerous functions and effects, often they are themselves multifunctional and show several desired effects for the cosmetic product in question in a single structure.
  • Cosmetics can be used to adjust the cosmetic properties to the desired rheological properties. For example, they can bind water and thereby build up viscosity.
  • bound water in cosmetic products also means a reduction in water activity, which can be important for the contamination of the product in question. If the activity of the free water is too low, germs can no longer dissolve and develop in it. The agent in question must then not conserved or at least significantly less.
  • multifunctional means that the use of a polymeric raw material in a composition fulfills several functions simultaneously.
  • hair waxes usually contain, in addition to the polymers, vegetable, animal or mineral waxes and are offered as solid formulations, usually in jars. For use, a certain amount is removed from the jar, then rubbed in the hand and spread over the hair. These hair waxes, based on natural raw materials, ensure a good hold of the hair with a strong shine. Nevertheless, the hair waxes on the market cannot yet completely satisfy the wishes of the users with regard to simple and clean application and easy distribution on the hair. So here the exact, simple and consistently reproducible dosing can be a problem. In addition, a long-lasting hairstyle hold up to several days with simultaneous easy washability is also desired here.
  • terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known from WO 96/19967, and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived.
  • terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, 3-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and C4-C32-alkyl methacrylate are known and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived.
  • Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known from EP 1 075 832 and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel. When these compositions are used, the softness of the hair, the shine and the difficulty of combing the hair are perceived as disadvantageous.
  • Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and dialkyldiaminomethacrylates are known from EP 0 074 191 and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds Ingredients (low VOC sprays) suitable.
  • the polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load.
  • a hair treatment composition containing (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), (B) at least 0 , 01% by weight of at least one hair-care substance selected from one of the groups of natural and synthetic - fatty substances (B1) or - selected non-ionic surfactants (B2)
  • the terpolymer (A) in the agent according to the invention is preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10 percent by weight, the hair care substance (B) in an amount of 0.01 to 30, particularly preferably of 0.05 to 20 weight percent and the cationic compound (C) in an amount of 0.01 to 20, preferably from 0.05 to 15 weight percent.
  • a dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate is preferred as the monomer.
  • the monomers dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate are particularly preferred.
  • the production of such polymers is described in EP 0 074 191. Under the Name Gaffix ® VC 713 (ISP) or copolymer VC 713 (ISP) such polymers are commercially available.
  • Suitable hair care substances in the sense of the present invention are natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (B1) as hair care compounds. This includes, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
  • Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3- di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C ⁇ - C 3 o - fatty acids with C 2 - C 3 o - fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid moieties in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, Bhenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are used, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosyn- thesis or dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol fractions in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, 'myristyl alcohol,. cetyl alcohol,
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • Isononanklad C16-18 alkyl ester
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868)
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • cocofatty alcohol -caprinate -caprylate Cocofatty alcohol -caprinate -caprylate
  • olerlerucate Cetiol ® J 600
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
  • oleyl oleate Cetiol ®
  • lauric acid hexyl ester Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (dicaprylic carbonate ® CC), trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or
  • polyhydroxy compounds include all substances understood which meet the definition in Römpp ' s Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD - ROM edition from 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean organic compounds with at least two hydroxyl groups. For the purposes of the present invention, this includes in particular:
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the Ha ⁇ dels GmbH
  • fatty acid and / or fatty acid derivatives and polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups and having a carbon chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms such as fatty acid ester of trimethylolpropane
  • Fatty acid esters of carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars in particular fatty acid esters of monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, which may also be in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses as well as in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.
  • fatty acid esters of Monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as, for example, triosen, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, which may also be in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester.
  • very particularly preferred polyols which are used in the form of their esters with fatty acids are polyols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular structure. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated.
  • the hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably adjacent at the end or separated from one another by the rest of the chain.
  • these polyols are: Glykoi, neopentyl glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclo -Hexanediol, 1, 2-cyclo-hexanediol, heptanediols, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 7
  • esters of fatty acids and polyols to be used according to the invention is its sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose , Lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, old rose, gulose, idose, 'talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose Melibios
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (B1-I), CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) mR 1 I CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 (B1-I) I CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) q R 3 in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to
  • carbon atoms are provided that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these
  • Groups represents hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) stands for 0 or numbers of 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is preferably an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides Base of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroseic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, and erachic acid, as well as mixtures thereof, gadic acid, arachic acid, and galenic acid. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.
  • the amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (B-1) used in the agents used according to the invention is usually 0.01-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.05-20% by weight, and in particular 0. 05-10% by weight.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants (B2) are selected according to the invention from the:
  • R alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyalkenyl, aminoalkyl, aminoalkenyl, preferably having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the pyrrolidone according to the general formula (B2-I) can also be used in the form of its salt, preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate (DMS) or as an alkyl halide.
  • DMS dimethyl sulfate
  • Particularly suitable pyrrolidones can be selected from the group comprising:
  • N-lauryl such as Surfadone LP-300 ® (ISP) and / or N-
  • the pyrrolidone derivative (B2-I) is used in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 % Used.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (B2-I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which is usually a fraction Represents number.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C ⁇ 2/4 ⁇ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.
  • Sugar surfactants of the Preferred are fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (B2-II),
  • the fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can be normally obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation 'with a fatty acid, a fatty acid or a fatty acid chloride obtained.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (B2-III):
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (B2-III) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic
  • Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (B2-III) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the particularly preferred nonionic surfactants were sugar surfactants. These can be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01-30% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.05-20% by weight are preferred, and quantities of 0.05-10% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • the substances (B1) and (B2) according to the invention are also possible to use as a mixture of at least two of the substances.
  • the invention encompasses both mixtures of at least two substances within a group and mixtures of at least two substances from each of the two groups.
  • the mixing ratio of components (B1) and (B2), where (B2) may also be understood to mean the sum of the individual components from (B2), can be from 1:99 to 99: 1.
  • the mixtures of a vegetable oil or an ester oil or a fatty acid ester or a fatty acid partial glyceride with a pyrrolidone or a sugar surfactant or a pyrrolidone and a sugar surfactant have proven to be preferred combinations according to the invention.
  • a very particularly preferred binary mixture of these two substance groups is the substance mixture of a fatty acid partial glyceride from group (B1) with the pyrrolidones from group (B2), although any combination of these two groups is possible according to the invention.
  • a very particularly preferred ternary combination of these two groups of substances is the mixture of a fatty acid partial glyceride from group (B1) with a pyrrolidone and a sugar surfactant from group (B2).
  • the cationic compound (C) is a substance which, due to cationic or cationizable groups, in particular primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, has a substantivity to human hair.
  • Suitable cationic substances are selected from cationic surfactants, betaine, amphoteric surfactants, cationic Polymers, silicone compounds with cationic or cationizable groups, cationically derivatized proteins or protein hydrolyzates and betaine,
  • the cationic polymers (C1) according to the invention can be both setting and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or finishing polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties. In a preferred embodiment, it can also be advantageous to formulate at least one finishing and / or at least one film-forming, setting polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer.
  • the suitable cationic polymers are, however, preferably hair-setting and / or hair-conditioning polymers. Polymers are understood to mean both natural and synthetic polymers which can be cationically or amphoterically charged.
  • Preferred polymers are those which have sufficient alcohol solubility to be present in completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
  • the cationic charge density is preferably 1 to 7 meq / g.
  • Cationic polymers (C1) are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the composition are referred to as "permanently cationic".
  • These are usually polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, with the q ⁇ aternmaschineischen nitrogen groups either contained in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkyl methacryloxyalkylammonium,
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable polymers with quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (polyquaternium-11) and, for example, quaternary polymeric polymers such as silicone polymeric polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • Polyquaternium such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (polyquaternium-11)
  • quaternary polymeric polymers such as silicone polymeric polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • cationic polymers are, for example, the copolymer of polyvinylpyrrplidone and imidazolimine methochloride sold by the company BASF, Germany under the trade name Luviquat ® HM 550, the terpolymer made from dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and the product sold by the company ⁇ algon / USA under the trade name Merquat ® Plus 3300 by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 displaced vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
  • halide ions in particular chloride, are preferred.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquatemium-37.
  • the crosslinking can, if desired, with the help of olefinically polyunsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose • done.
  • Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (C1-I) as the non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid C ⁇ - -alkyl-C 1-4 -alkyl.
  • acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • This too Copolymers, as in the case of. Homopolymers described above can be crosslinked.
  • a preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one ar ⁇ ino group or at least one ammonium group.
  • Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups can be side or terminal.
  • the N-containing silicone as the cationic polymer (C1) according to the invention can preferably be selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers with at least one amino group, siloxane polymers with at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer.
  • Suitable silicone polymers with two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal aminoalkyl groups.
  • R OH or CH 3
  • Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, this is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, this is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, this is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401, based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, isolaureth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%) based
  • the molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000.
  • the amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, particularly preferably from 01 to 0.5.
  • the silicone as the cationic polymer (C1) according to the invention is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 up to 10% by weight.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and Chitosan derivatives.
  • Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (C1-III) GOB-N + R a R b R c X " • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose; • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or Hydroxyalkylene • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 C atoms, the total number of C atoms in R a , R and R c preferably is a maximum of 20; • X " is a common counter anion and is preferably
  • a cationic cellulose is sold under the name of Polymer JR ® from Amerchol and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees.
  • Another cationic cellulose has the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is marketed by Amerchol under the trade name Polymer LM-200.
  • a suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the trade name Jaguar ® and has the INCI name Guar Hydröxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
  • Particularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives.
  • the chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins.
  • the production of chitosan is preferably based on the chitin contained in the shell remains of crustaceans, which is available in large quantities as a cheap and natural raw material.
  • the molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol.
  • a low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable, for example.
  • the molecular weight is preferably above 100,000 g / mol, particularly preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol.
  • the degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, particularly preferably 60 to 99%.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold for example by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan, under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is 70 to 80% deacetylated.
  • a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
  • the chitosan contained has a molecular weight of approx. 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is 70 to 85% deacetylated. Quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or, come as chitosan derivative
  • the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form.
  • the degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, particularly preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.
  • all cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used as neutralizing agents, for example formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, of which pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is particularly preferred.
  • cationic polymers are, for example, - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, - cationic guar Derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ® Guar and Jaguar ® , Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylemodimethicone), Dow Corning® .
  • 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General 'Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer : Th. Goldschmidt), di-quaternary polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as are offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
  • cationic polymers can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as 845 (manufactured by ISP) as commercial products copolymer Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370.. Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which is present as a quaternary ammonium group at certain pH values and is therefore cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam® NB /.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquatemium-37.
  • cationized protein hydrolyzates (C2) are to be counted among the cationic substances (C), the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds , from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
  • the protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 250,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammoniumates such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates advantageously contain one or two long C8 to C22 alkyl chains and correspondingly two or one short C1 to C4 alkyl chains. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • inventive cationic protein hydrolysates and - derivatives are under the INCI - names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimopnium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Silk Am
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants are very particularly preferred.
  • Amphoteric polymers (C3) can also be used as polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule " - or -SO 3 ' groups, and summarized such polymers that contain - COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are those in British Offenlegungsschrift 2 104 091, European Offenlegungsschrift 47 714 and European Offenlegungsschrift. 217 274, the European
  • Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are methacroylethylbetaine / methacrylate copolymers, which are available under the name Amersette® ® (AMERCHOL).
  • Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
  • these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • an alkali metal hydroxide for example, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate ion;
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.
  • zwitterionic surfactants (C4) are among the cationic substances (C).
  • Zwitterionic surfactants (C4) are those surface active compounds which, and at least one -COO ( "at least one quaternary ammonium group in the molecule - -.
  • ⁇ -SOs or group carry Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl - N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-car-boxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline each have 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl - N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium
  • C8 to C18 su lfobetaines such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts and the C8 to C18 fatty acid alkylamido betaines such as, for example, the coconut fatty acid amidopropylbetaine, which is used, for example, in the form of a 30% commercial beta solution in Tego® solution under the name of the aqueous solution T7® is sold by Goldschmidt AG and the N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N- [2- (carboxymethoxy) ethyl
  • the cation-active substances (C) also include ampholytic surfactants (C5).
  • Ampholytic surfactants (C5) are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs-C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal salts are qualified.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 24 C. - atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C-
  • Cationic surfactants can also be used according to the invention.
  • Typical examples of cationic surfactants are, in particular, tetraalkylammonium compounds, amidoamines or esterquats.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, ryldimethylammoniumchlorid Distea-, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, hydroxyethyl Hydroxycetyl Dimmonium chlorides, as well as those available under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.
  • R 14 CO stands for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 15 and R 16 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 14 CO
  • R 15 for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH 2 CH 2 O) m H- Group
  • m1, m2 and m3 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12
  • m4 for numbers from 1 to 12
  • Y for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures , as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils.
  • Technical C- ⁇ coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hardened Ci 6/18 tallow or palm fatty acids as well as C 16/18 fatty acid cuts rich in elaidic acid are preferably used.
  • the fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters.
  • an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • the preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical Ci ⁇ n ⁇ - tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40).
  • quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (C6-I) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R 14 CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R 15 for R 15 CO, R 16 for hydrogen, R 17 for is a methyl group, m1, m2 and m3 for 0 and Y for methyl sulfate.
  • quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (C6-II) are also suitable as esterquats.
  • ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylar ⁇ ins of the formula (C6-III), R 25 O- (CH 2 CH2 ⁇ ) m 8 ⁇ CR 22 II
  • R CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 23 for hydrogen or R 22 CO
  • R 24 , R 25 and R 26 independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • m7 and m8 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12
  • X again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • ester quats are substances in which the ester bond is replaced by an amide bond and which preferably follow the formula (C6-IV) based on diethylenetriamine,
  • R 29 I [R 27 CO-NH-CH 2 CH 2 - N + -CH 2 CH 2 -NH-R 28 ] Y- (C6-IV) I R 30 in the R 27 CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 Carbon atoms, R 28 for hydrogen or R 27 CO, R 29 and R 30 independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and Y again for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • Such amide ester quats are available on the market, for example, under the Incroquat® (Croda) brand.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademark Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® sold .
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylarninoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants (C6) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities from 0.05 to 15% by weight are preferred, and quantities from 0.05 to 10% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains 0.01 to 15 percent by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 percent by weight, of at least one synthetic or natural nonionic film-forming polymer.
  • Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in the agent according to the invention in completely dissolved form.
  • Film-forming polymers are understood to mean those polymers which, when dried, leave a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products such as, for example, face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. According to the invention, film-forming polymers are furthermore understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are able to deposit a polymer film on the hair.
  • Suitable synthetic, nonionic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylamide , Alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone or N-vinyl formamide are suitable, for example.
  • Further suitable synthetic film-forming, nonionic hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ® 305 distributed by Seppic; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Elvanol ® by Du Pont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products and
  • Polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers which are sold, for example, under the trade names Ucon® by Union Carbide.
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are particularly preferred.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for example, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® by the company Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • the teaching according to the invention also includes the additional use of polymers that fix the hair, the so-called setting polymers. These contribute to the hold and / or to the build-up of the hair volume, the fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • Film-forming polymers and gums are therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents, hair foams, hair waxes and hair sprays.
  • Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred here because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is to say water. This reduces the sagging of the hair strands and thus ensures a long-lasting hair style build-up and maintenance.
  • the so-called curl retention test is often used as a test method for this.
  • These polymeric substances can continue to be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is to say that they have several effects which are desired from an application point of view, numerous polymers can be found in several groups which are classified according to the mode of action, including the CTFA manual. Because of the importance of the setting polymers, they should be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names.
  • the cationic polymers (C) can of course also be found in this list of the polymers which are particularly preferably to be used according to the invention.
  • Examples of common setting polymers are acrylamides / ammonium acrylate copolymers, acrylamides / DMAPA acrylates / methoxy PEG methacrylate copolymers, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorides / acrylamides copolymers, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride e / acrylates copolymers, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylates copolymers, acrylates / acrylamides copolymers, acrylates / ammonium methacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylate / Stearyl Acrylate / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer
  • composition according to the invention is to be formulated in the form of an emulsion, emulsion-stabilizing polymers can advantageously also be used. These are understood to be polymers which substantially support the build-up and stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions).
  • Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential components, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively influencing the continuous or the disperse phase. This positive influence can be due to electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or film formation on the droplet surface.
  • Examples of such polymers are acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / aminoacrylates / C 10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / stearyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, alcaligenes polysaccharides , Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium .
  • Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, lanolin, lanolin alcohol, magnesium alginate, maltodextrin, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer ,.
  • Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite,ixie Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecene / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Poc PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Camauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M,
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of a gel, wax or cream, it is advantageous to use polymers to adjust the viscosity.
  • Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems.
  • Formamide Copolymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate ⁇ / P Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosethyl, Calcium Carboxymine, Caesalpinia Spinach Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guate, Cellulose Acetoxylate, Cellulose Acetate, Cell
  • Another way of increasing the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is to thicken the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase.
  • polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gel formation of cosmetic products with a high lipid content. Some of these polymers are listed below: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Beeswax, Behenyl
  • Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester -24 alkyl dimethicone, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, C1-5 alkyl galactomannan, C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate, C20-24 alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose
  • Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, hydroxypropyl cellulose, isobutylene / isoprene copolymer, lithium oxidized polyethylene, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, methylstyrene / vinyltoluene copolymer, microcrystalline wax, montan acid wax,
  • Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Camauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluorethylone Propyloriforpyloropyloriforpyloropylorodyloropylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodyloromethane
  • Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer.
  • microparticles filled or unfilled, can also be used in the composition according to the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active ingredient from the capsules or to achieve special optical, aesthetic effects of the overall formulation.
  • polymers are incorporated as suspension aids.
  • Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids.
  • the polymers cover the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. Examples of these polymers are listed below:
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer AMP-Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrodimonium Hydrolyimonagen Casein Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimoni
  • Hydrogenated starch Hydrolysates, hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides,
  • the composition according to the invention can be influenced in a targeted manner, in particular with regard to the setting, softening and antistatic action, if anionic polymers (G2) are also formulated.
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are, inter alia, anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid is obtainable for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferred.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester,
  • Preferred aniortic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and .30, to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt is present.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide.
  • a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • This compound which in addition to the polymer component, a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci 3 -C ⁇ -Isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7). contains has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyiether of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether are also color-preserving polymers.
  • a cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • Anionic polymers which are also suitable according to the invention include: Vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, such as are commercially available for example under the names Resyn ® (National Starch), Luviset ® (BASF) and Gafset ® (GAF).
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers obtainable for example under the trade name Luviflex ® (BASF).
  • a preferred polymer is that available under the name Luviflex VBM-35 ® (BASF) vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
  • Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold ® strong (BASF).
  • the agents according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: VinylpyrrolidonA ynyl ester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON).
  • siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. at normal pressure.
  • preferred Siloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsil ⁇ x 'ane, such as polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, and, polydialkylsiloxanes, the amine and / or hydroxy groups contain polydialkylsiloxanes.
  • - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP, 0612759 B1.
  • the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic polymer and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
  • polymers which are described in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook” (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 , 101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Polymers are mentioned in one of the chapters on polymers such as "film formers” or “hair fixatives” and are commercially available. Reference is expressly made to this document and the sections cited from it.
  • the polymers (G) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • the composition according to the invention can of course also contain further components, in particular active ingredients.
  • the first group of active ingredients is fat (D).
  • Fat substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids (D1).
  • Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875
  • isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95
  • all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, Gadolein Textre, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.
  • the fatty alcohols (D2) which can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 10 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C 2 -C 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols derive from preferably natural fatty acids, usually being obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
  • fatty alcohol cuts which are obtained by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil / Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil, or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil / Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil, or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , for example Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® , e.g. Lanette ® O or Lorol ® , e.g.
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names Cor 'onä ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight.
  • Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, camauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walrus, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes (D3).
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the combination of the composition according to the invention with surfactants (E) has also proven to be advantageous.
  • the agents used according to the invention contain surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I), OR * (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n - O - P - OR 2 (El-I) OX
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X
  • n is a number from 1 to 10
  • X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 are independently hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical, is sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II) R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (E1-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH2CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers of 0 , 5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, mono
  • Monoglyceride (ether) sulfates are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride,
  • sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyper disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such connections are, for example
  • alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R 1 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (E4-I) in the R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen or methyl, R 3 represents linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used.
  • “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
  • narrow homolog distributions are obtained if For example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates can be used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • surfactants emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994".
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example the commercially available product Montanov ® 68,
  • Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from mushrooms and yeasts.
  • Phospholipids are primarily understood to mean the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphididyl cholines from, for example, egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH), linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca , Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 5-18 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 can be very particularly preferred.
  • Protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention.
  • Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolyzates is also understood to mean total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are furthermore to be understood under the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • L-alanyl-L-proline polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ß-amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda), Hydrosesame ® (Croda), Hydrotritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • UV filters (I) can have further advantages with regard to the structure of the Hair and thus advantages in terms of combability, shine or volume!
  • the structure and physical properties of the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions. Rather, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable, the absorption maximum of which lies in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (28Q-315nm) - or in UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4 ' - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates) , 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
  • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3 dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L- camphor.
  • Preferred UV filters are those whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the water-insoluble compound has, in the context of the teaching according to the invention, the higher activity than those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble are UV filters which do not dissolve in water at 20 ° C. by more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight.
  • these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a group that absorbs UV rays.
  • this group can be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function , Connections from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example - substituted benzophenones,
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) - and in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range.
  • UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U is preferably selected such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group.
  • this quaternary ammonium group can be directly connected to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q advantageously has the general structure - (CH 2 ) ⁇ -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x represents an integer from 1 to 4, R and R 2 independently of one another are C- - Alkyl groups, R 3 stands for a -C 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X " for a. Physiologically compatible anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3, R 1 and R 2 each for a methyl group and R 3 either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions
  • organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the 'available as commercial products compounds Zimtklareamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.
  • the effect of the combination according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in Combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • Preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries one to three d to C 4 alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen.
  • the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
  • Those amounts used in the inventive compositions are from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total composition, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
  • active ingredient (A) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) has also proven to be advantageous.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
  • Retinol (vitamin A and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ) belong to the group of substances designated as vitamin A.
  • ⁇ -carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A acid and their esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and their esters such as palmitate and acetate are considered The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to the nicotinamide which is used in the compounds according to the invention agents used is preferably contained in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • pantbenol panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used.
  • Derivatives of pantbenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters, and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and the potassium panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin ⁇ (pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent , Vitamin F.
  • Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-c /] - imidazole-4-valeric acid is called vitamin H, but for which there is the trivial name biotin has now become established.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, valerian, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera , coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange are particularly preferred.
  • the extracts from green tea, valerian, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention. ,. ,
  • Alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
  • alcohols lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred both as the sole extracting agent and as a mixture with water.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.
  • mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention may be preferred.
  • penetration aids and / or swelling agents are included. These auxiliaries ensure better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber.
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1st , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • short-chain carboxylic acids can additionally support the combination according to the invention.
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives for the purposes of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which can be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention can have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • carboxylic acids having several carboxy groups preference is given to carboxylic acids having several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups can be present in whole or in part as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention can of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, C1-C8-alkyl, G2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, G2-C8 -Aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups.
  • Preferred substituents are C1-C8-alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, • amino and carboxy groups.
  • Substituents in the ⁇ position are particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxyuride amino groups, the
  • alkyl optionally substituted by alkyl: aryl; Aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be further substituted.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, propolic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, azelaic acid, azelaic acid, Isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoylic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, 6
  • n a number from 4 to .12 and one of the two groups X and Y for a COOH group and the other for hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical
  • dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (Nl) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring
  • Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-1) are known in the literature.
  • German patent specification 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap compositions. From German published patent application 28 33 291 deodorising agents are known which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from German Offenlegungsschrift 35 03 618 agents for washing and rinsing the hair are known, in which the addition of these dicarboxylic acids gives a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the agent. Finally, from German published patent application 197 54 053 agents for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects.
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization.
  • a polyunsaturated fatty acid is usually used as the dicarboxylic acid component.
  • the linoleic acid accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred.
  • Acrylic acid, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are particularly preferred as the monocarboxylic acid component.
  • Reactions according to Diels-Alder usually produce isome- Rengemische in which one component is in excess. According to the invention, these isomer mixtures can be used just like the pure compounds.
  • those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds of the formula (Nl) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally by addition of one of these compounds can also be used according to the invention Molecule water is formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which results from the reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-1-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and pplyhydroxy di, tri and polycarboxylic acids together with dpm active ingredient (A). It has been shown here that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 C atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxy polycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and poly-tartaric acid and their esters.
  • polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean all substances which meet the definition in Römpp 's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD-ROM edition of 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean organic compounds with at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • this includes in particular: Polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups and with a carbon chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms such as trimethylolpropane, ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols, carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts, especially monosaccharides, Disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and also protected by customary -OH - and -NH - protective groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and further- in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester, aminodeoxy sugar, deoxy sugar, thio sugar, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by customary and known in the literature
  • monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester,
  • oligosaccharides with up to 50 monomer units these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups as well as in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester.
  • Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular structure. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated.
  • the hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably adjacent at the end or separated from one another by the rest of the chain.
  • polystyrene resin examples include polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ether with a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol , 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2- Hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 4-cyclo-hexanediol, 1, 2-cyclo-hexanediol, heptanedi
  • Sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrites, pentites, hexites, threitols, erythritol, adonites, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose are further examples of the polyols according to the invention.
  • teaching according to the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyols (B).
  • the polyols (B) according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from .0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1% by weight contain up to 10% by weight.
  • the consumer may associate the composition according to the invention with a stimulant.
  • a stimulant in particular in children, does not entirely rule out oral intake or swallowing of the composition.
  • the compositions according to the invention therefore contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances are preferred according to the invention which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l.
  • the ionogenic bitter substances have proven to be superior to the nonionic, ionogenic bitter substances, preferably consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s) are therefore preferred for the preparations according to the invention.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are particularly suitable as bitter substances.
  • Such a connection is commercially, for example Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate available under the trademarks Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® .
  • This compound is also known as Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bitter substance is present in the shaped bodies according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the shaped body. Quantities of 0.001 to 0.05% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to those skilled in the art for such cosmetic products.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example non-ionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate
  • Thickening agents such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums,
  • Dextrans cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and
  • Amylopectin and dextrins clays such as e.g. B. bentonite or fully synthetic
  • Hydrocolloids such as B. polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, - for example
  • Soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, as well as silicone oils are soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, as well as silicone oils,
  • Solvents and intermediates such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol,
  • quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol
  • - opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • the agent according to the invention is preferably made up in an aqueous, an alcoholic or in an aqueous alcoholic medium with preferably at least 10 percent by weight of water.
  • the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be used as alcohols be included.
  • the agent according to the invention can be present in a pH range from 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred
  • Organic solvents or a can be used as additional co-solvents
  • solvents with a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0.1 'to 15 weight percent, preferably from ' 1 to 10 weight percent.
  • Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional co-solvents.
  • Other particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 percent by weight.
  • the agent according to the invention can be used in various application forms, for example as a lotion, as a non-aerosol spray lotion, which is used by means of a mechanical device for spraying, as an aerosol foam or as a non-aerosol foam, which in combination with a suitable mechanical Device for foaming the composition is present.
  • a lotion thickened with a conventional thickener is also possible.
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of a setting hair lotion, it is in the form of a non-viscous solution, dispersion or emulsion containing at least 10% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, of a cosmetically acceptable alcohol.
  • a cosmetically acceptable alcohol such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • the lotion according to the invention is packaged in a portion bottle and can be applied directly to the hair from it.
  • the packaging can be equipped with a nozzle, by means of which it can be applied directly to the hairline.
  • a particularly preferred form of application is a non-aerosol spray lotion.
  • the agent according to the invention is sprayed with the aid of a suitable mechanically operated spraying device. Under mechanical
  • Spraying devices are to be understood as those devices which make it possible to spray a liquid without using a propellant.
  • a suitable mechanical spraying device can be, for example, a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is filled under pressure, the elastic container expanding and from which the agent as a result of the
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of a setting hair foam (mousse), it contains at least one customary foaming substance known for this purpose.
  • the agent is foamed with or without the help of propellant gases or chemical propellants and incorporated into the hair as a foam and left in the hair without rinsing.
  • a hair foam according to the invention has a chemical blowing agent and / or a mechanical device for foaming the composition as an additional component.
  • Mechanical foaming devices are to be understood as devices which allow the foaming of a liquid with or without the use of a blowing agent.
  • a commercially available pump foamer or an aerosol foam head, for example, can be used as a suitable mechanical foaming device.
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic non-aerosol spray lotion in combination with a suitable mechanical device for spraying or in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic lotion containing: (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), (B) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one hair care substance selected from a -.
  • the proportions of all components are preferably set so that a clear solution results.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied by applying it in an amount sufficient to achieve the volume effect on damp, towel-dried hair. Then the hairstyle can be shaped in the usual way or the hair can be inserted and finally blow-dried. But it is also possible to apply the product directly to dry hair to refresh the volume effect.
  • This formula was used to determine curl retention compared to a water wave (pure water) and a market setting (Wellaflex 24 h volume).
  • strands of hair with a length of 0.21 m and a weight of about 3 g are completely immersed in the respective setting agent for 30 s.
  • the excess of the setting agent is removed by wiping between two fingers.
  • the fact that the amounts of fixer ingested are each about 1 g
  • Foam hair fixer 2A 2B Polyquatemium-11 1.8% vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 3.0% 2.5 copolymer
  • the mixture of active ingredients was filled in a ratio of 95: 5 with propane / butane 5.0 as propellant in an aerosol can with a foam valve.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des agents cosmétiques volumisants qui contiennent une combinaison spéciale comprenant un terpolymère constitué de vinylpyrrolidone, de vinylcaprolactame et d'un monomère acrylate, d'autres substances de soins capillaires, ainsi qu'au moins un composé cationique.
EP04765156A 2003-12-12 2004-09-14 Agent cosmetique volumisant Ceased EP1691772A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE2003158587 DE10358587A1 (de) 2003-12-12 2003-12-12 Volumengebendes kosmetisches Mittel
PCT/EP2004/010240 WO2005060924A1 (fr) 2003-12-12 2004-09-14 Agent cosmetique volumisant

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DE102006005451A1 (de) * 2006-02-01 2007-08-02 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Haargele mit hoher Fadenabrisszeit
US8679464B2 (en) 2008-04-11 2014-03-25 Kobo Products Inc. Ternary and quaternary wax-resin composites for use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations
DE102009020552A1 (de) * 2009-05-08 2010-11-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Polymerkombination aus mindestens zwei verschiedenen N-Vinylpyrrolidon/N-Vinylcaprolactam-Copolymeren für glanzgebende kosmetische Haarbehandlungsmittel
DE102010041267A1 (de) * 2010-09-23 2012-03-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern
US20130164247A1 (en) * 2011-12-23 2013-06-27 Jisook Baek Transparent microemulsions with a film-forming styling polymer and methods for making the same
DE102016223588A1 (de) 2016-11-28 2018-05-30 Clariant International Ltd Copolymere und deren verwendung in reinigungsmittel-zusammensetzungen
DE102016223586A1 (de) 2016-11-28 2018-05-30 Clariant International Ltd Copolymere und deren verwendung in reinigungsmittel-zusammensetzungen
CN110234405B (zh) 2016-11-28 2022-10-25 科莱恩国际有限公司 包含阳离子共聚物的化妆品组合物
DE102016223590A1 (de) 2016-11-28 2018-05-30 Clariant International Ltd Copolymer enthaltende reinigungsmittelzusammensetzungen

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JPS5849715A (ja) * 1981-08-13 1983-03-24 ジ−・エ−・エフ・コ−ポレ−シヨン ビニルカプロラクタム／ビニルピロリドン／アクリル酸アルキルを含有する毛髪調合剤
DE19937386A1 (de) * 1999-08-07 2001-02-15 Wella Ag Volumengebendes Haarbehandlungsmittel
DE19957947C1 (de) * 1999-12-02 2001-08-09 Wella Ag Polymerkombination für Haarbehandlungsmittel

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