WO2007087860A1 - Agents cosmétiques contenant un polysiloxane et une huile ester ainsi que d'autres principes actifs - Google Patents

Agents cosmétiques contenant un polysiloxane et une huile ester ainsi que d'autres principes actifs Download PDF

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WO2007087860A1
WO2007087860A1 PCT/EP2006/011898 EP2006011898W WO2007087860A1 WO 2007087860 A1 WO2007087860 A1 WO 2007087860A1 EP 2006011898 W EP2006011898 W EP 2006011898W WO 2007087860 A1 WO2007087860 A1 WO 2007087860A1
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acid
group
hair
preferred
radical
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PCT/EP2006/011898
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German (de)
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Jens Delowsky
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Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing at least one polysiloxane compound and at least one other synergistically acting ester oil and the use of these agents for the cleaning and / or care of skin and hair.
  • tanning salons make skin and hair structurally more susceptible to UV light. These impairments show on the skin as well as the hair, for example, by a loss of elasticity.
  • the extensive physical activity in the spare time leads to a frequent intensive cleaning of skin and hair.
  • the protective film of sebum which is continuously produced by the numerous sebaceous glands, or the sebum production of the sebaceous glands themselves, can be greatly impaired. As a result, a greasy skin and greasy hair set.
  • Emulsifiers for skin care were further optimized with regard to their irritation potential by selecting suitable emulsifiers.
  • mild surfactants are used, so as not to put additional stress on the skin and hair.
  • Greasing substances are used to avoid the stimulation of sebum production during cleaning.
  • UV protectants and vitamins such as vitamin E are said to reduce the adverse effects of UV light.
  • Protein hydrolysates are used to balance the internal structure of the skin and hair. With plant and algae extracts, for example, the moisture balance of skin and hair can be influenced.
  • human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results. For naturally acting dyeings but usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that raise directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the dye. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.
  • These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents.
  • the consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.
  • active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface.
  • active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or Give dry combing or prevent splitting.
  • the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.
  • the object of the present invention was to remedy the above-described disadvantages of the prior art.
  • silicones are used more recently.
  • the amino-functional silicones have become established as suitable agents with good properties.
  • these have an often unpleasantly blunted feel with regard to the feel and feel of wet skin and hair as well as the feel and feel of the re-dried skin or hair, which is also perceived as "squeaky” audible
  • the desired substantivity on the skin and the hair may be troublesome for subsequent treatments, for example removal of the skin and hair may be a major problem at the time of the next cleansing and, after several treatment cycles, the skin may have an undesirably high gloss It can even happen that make-up and / or lipstick no longer adhere to the skin, which can impair the appearance of corrugated or stained hair, as well as adversely affect the hair's hold, body and volume ,
  • the effect of the combination of active substances according to the invention can be significantly increased if, furthermore, a raw material selected from the groups of polymers, natural products and nature-analogous substances, fatty substances or surface-active substances, in particular the mild surface-active substances, is used.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition containing an active ingredient combination of a) at least one polysiloxane compound having a viscosity of 0.1 cSt to 5000 cSt and b) at least one ester oil, which consists of a C6 to C30 fatty acid and a C2 until C30 alcohol is built up.
  • Another outstanding effect of the combination of active substances according to the invention is that, in particular, UV protection filters are applied particularly evenly on the hair or the skin, without stressing the skin or hair. The effect of the UV protection filters is increased, so that a lower concentration of UV protection filters can be used while maintaining the UV protection effect. At the same time, especially the hair is much better maintained without being burdened.
  • the hair is by no means greasy or oily, although both active ingredients clearly have a fatty, oily character. For this reason, such combinations have been avoided in the past.
  • the hair treated with it despite the applied UV filter fabrics, remains easy to comb both dry and wet hair and is easy to style with a long - lasting volume and elasticity without a brittle appearance.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore the use of an active ingredient combination comprising a) at least one polysiloxane compound having a viscosity of from 0.1 cSt to 5000 cSt and b) at least one ester oil consisting of a C6 to C30 fatty acid and a C2 to C30 alcohol is constructed to increase the effect of UV protection filters on hair.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polysiloxane compound which is constructed as described below.
  • the first class of substances which is contained in the described synergistic combination of active substances (A) according to the invention as active ingredient a) are polysiloxane compounds or, more simply, also silicone oils (S). Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR 1 2 ) - O - (SiR 2 2 - O -) ⁇ - (SiOHR 1 2 ) (S1 - I)
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CHzCH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cSt measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • viscosities from 0.1 and 5000 cSt are between 0.1 and 3000 cSt.
  • the most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt.
  • the most preferred range is between IcSt and 50 cSt.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of Dimethiconole both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and those skilled in the art be prepared known conventional methods for emulsification.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF
  • the dimethiconols (S1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • the dimethiconols form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term.
  • the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I):
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2 - II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 J 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, - C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl
  • Particularly preferred lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to
  • Preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 5000 cSt, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and d 3000 cSt.
  • the most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt.
  • the most preferred range is between IcSt and 50 cSt.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the Degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.
  • the dimethicones (S2) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconone based on the composition.
  • the dimethicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term.
  • the amount of dimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones.
  • Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas:
  • Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical.
  • Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cSt measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred are viscosities from 0.1 and 5000 cSt, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 3000 cSt. The most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt. The most preferred range is between IcSt and 50 cSt.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers as Auxiliaries are used as an aid for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes.
  • both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
  • the dimethicone copolyols (S3) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
  • the dimethicone copolyols it is also possible for the dimethicone copolyols to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of Dimethiconcopolyol up to 40 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt.% Based on the total composition.
  • Aminofunctional silicones or also called amodimethicones (S4), are silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.
  • Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (S4-I) M (R a Q b Si0 (4 aa b) / 2 ) x (R c Si0 ( 4-c ) / 2 ) y M (S 4 -I)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, wherein R 1 is a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical which contains at least one amino-functional group, and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical which is composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms;
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3
  • "a" + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25
  • y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 J 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, - C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3.
  • the molar ratio of R 3 Q b SiO (4 a -. b) / 2 - units to the R 0 SiO / 2 units (4 c). is in the range of from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula will be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II)
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 J 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 J 3 ; a is a number between O and 3, especially O, b is a number between O and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, preferably from 1 to 10 to assume, R 'is a monovalent radical selected from o -N (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 - N (R") 2 o -N (R 11 J 2 o -N
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III) (CH 3) 3 Si- [OSi (CH 3) 2] n [OSi (CH 3)] m OSi (CH 3) 3 (S4 - III),
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g ,
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • the amodimethicones (S4) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of amodimethicone based on the composition.
  • the amodimethicones it is also possible for the amodimethicones to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term.
  • the amount of amodimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the invention also encompasses the recognition that a mixture of at least 2 different silicones can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols.
  • a particularly preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or dimethicone, at least one further non-cyclic dimethicone and / or dimethiconol and at least one amino-functional silicone. If different silicones are used as a mixture, the mixing ratio is largely variable.
  • all silicones used for mixing are used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture.
  • a ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture largely in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt.%.
  • this mixture is in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Of silicone mixture based on the composition.
  • the mixture of silicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of silicone mixture may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • polysiloxane according to the invention is also understood a polyammonium-polysiloxane compound.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:
  • a ' is -CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -C (O) CH 2 -,
  • E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas
  • Hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) - and -N + (R 1 ) (R 3 ) - interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above, or optionally a bond to a divalent radical R 3 , and wherein R 3 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyan or branched C 1 -C 20 -
  • a hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R is as defined above .
  • the radicals K can be identical or different from one another, and in the case where K represents a trivalent radical, the third valence is saturated via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group,
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they have the above-defined components a1) to a4).
  • the polysiloxane compounds are formed by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) to each other.
  • Component a4) serves to neutralize the positive charges resulting from component a2).
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the invention may be oligomers or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds also include the case described below wherein the polysiloxane compound has only one repeating unit.
  • Polysiloxane compounds of the invention are naturally formed by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.
  • the terminal atom groups result from the terminal atom groups of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art.
  • the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3).
  • the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention in particular their formed from the repeat units linear polymeric backbone, by alternating juxtaposition of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are constructed. That is, the optionally present in the structural components beyond free valences (as may occur in trivalent radicals as component a2) or trivalent radicals K) are preferably not used to build polymeric side chains or polymeric branches.
  • the backbone of the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds of the invention may be selected from the organic radicals containing at least one Contain ammonium group a2) and the polysiloxane - structural units a3) are constructed, and the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) bind as side chains to the trivalent organic ammonium group radical.
  • polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may result which have only one repeating unit. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. This case leads, for example, to inventive polysiloxane compounds of the structure:
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention preferably consist essentially of the components a1) to a4), the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention naturally having the terminal groups resulting from the reaction of the monomeric starting materials. However, it is also possible to use monofunctional chain terminators.
  • polyalkylene oxide structural units a) may be divalent radicals of the general formulas:
  • the rest A ' means: -CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -C (O) CH 2 -, -C (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or - C (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Such may be random ethylene oxide / propylene oxide copolymer groups or ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer groups with any arrangement of one or more ethylene oxide or propylene oxide blocks.
  • the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) can furthermore be a monovalent, ie terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula - AER 2 in which A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R 2 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC 20 - Hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, or -C (O) - and substituted with -OH and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.
  • the component a2) from which the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are composed is at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group.
  • the bond of the radical to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention is preferably carried out via the nitrogen atom of one or more ammonium groups in the organic radical.
  • divalent or trivalent means that the organic ammonium radical to form bonds in particular to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention has two or three free valences.
  • the ammonium radical is expediently represented by an NH 4 + group in which at least two hydrogen atoms are substituted by organic groups.
  • quaternary ammonium group is by general definition (see, for example, Römpp Chemie Lexikon) a group in which all four hydrogen atoms of an NH 4 + group are replaced by organic radicals.
  • the component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention is at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula: -KSK-,
  • S is a polysiloxane group of the general formula
  • R 1 is preferably C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, C 1 -C 8 -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R1 preferably C r C 18 alkyl, C r C 6 fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R 1 is preferably C r C 6 alkyl, Ci - C 6 fluoroalkyl, preferably -C 4 fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. More preferably, R 1 is methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.
  • C r C 22 -alkyl in the context of the present invention means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups have 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl and 1,2,3 trimethylhexyl.
  • C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom, by way of example monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl , Perfluorethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl.
  • aryl in the context of the present invention means unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F 1 Cl 1 CF 3 C 1 -C 6 -alkyl, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy, C 3 -C 7 -cycloalkyl C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl or phenyl-substituted phenyl.
  • the term may optionally also mean naphthyl.
  • K represents a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) -, -NR 1 -, and -N + (R 1 J (R 3 ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • Interrupted means that in the case of bivalent radicals a - CH 2 grouping in the case of trivalent radicals a -CH- grouping of the hydrocarbon radical are replaced by said groups. This also applies to the rest of the description, if this name is used.
  • the group K binds via a carbon atom to the silicon atom of the group S.
  • the group K can, as seen above, also preferably have quaternary ammonium groups, so that ammonium groups result in addition to the ammonium groups in said component a2) in the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention.
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can, for example, in the. Have radical K, amino groups.
  • the reaction of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention with acids leads to their protonation.
  • Such protonated amino group-containing polysiloxane compounds are included in the scope of the present invention.
  • the bonding of component a3), the polysiloxane structural unit -K-S-K-, to the other structural components via the radical K preferably does not take place via a nitrogen atom of the radical K.
  • R 1 is as defined above or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R 3 , so that a cycle results.
  • R 3 represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C r C 2 o hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R 2 are as defined above.
  • the radicals K can be identical or different from one another, and in the case where K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence takes place via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group.
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention furthermore contain component a4), at least one organic or inorganic anionic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s).
  • Organic or inorganic acid radicals are radicals that formally result from the elimination of one or more protons from organic or inorganic acids and include, for example, halides such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfates, nitrates, phosphates, carboxylates such as formate, acetate, propionate etc., sulfonates, sulfates, polyether carboxylates and polyether sulfates etc. Chloride is preferred.
  • the organic or inorganic anionic acid radicals as component a4) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may be identical or different from one another.
  • halide ions preferably result from the reaction of the amines with alkyl halides, while, for example, carboxylates result from the carboxylic acids which can be added in the reaction of bisepoxides with amines.
  • K represents a bivalent, or trivalent, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 -hydrocarbyl radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -NR 1 -, - C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with - OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above, and wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other.
  • organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group is preferably a radical of the general formula:
  • N 1 is a quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 4 JN + (R 5 ) -, wherein R 4 represents a monovalent or divalent straight, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -,
  • -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH
  • R 5 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC 2 o-hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, - C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted by -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 4 or a tetravalent radical F, and the radicals R 4 and R 5 within the group -N 1 -FN 1 - and in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
  • F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group may further preferably a radical of the general formula
  • R 6 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 -
  • Hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
  • -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or R 6 represents a
  • R 7 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC 2 o hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH- -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER 2 , wherein -AER 2 has the abovementioned meaning, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 6 or to a trivalent radical K.
  • the radicals R 6 and R 7 may be the same or different from each other.
  • the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one ammonium group may further preferably be a radical of the general formula:
  • N 5 is an ammonium group of the general formula
  • R 23 is hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -
  • C 2O represents hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
  • R 24 is hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C r C 20 -
  • Hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R 23 , and the
  • Radicals R 23 and R 24 within the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
  • F 1 represents a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -N hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -N-, -C (S) - or by a group -E- can be,
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds of the present invention referred to, in which this group is realized by way of example, and which are also valid in this more general context.
  • the components a) of the active substance complex according to the invention, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are described in detail with reference to five preferred embodiments of these compounds.
  • a particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds (hereinafter referred to as the first embodiment of component a) of the active ingredient complex), wherein the aforementioned organic radical, the at least one, preferably quaternary
  • Containing ammonium group, as component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention a radical of the general formula:
  • B is -AEKSKEA- and additionally optionally -AEA 1 - or -A'-EA-, wherein S, K, -AE-, - EA-, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- and -N 1 -FN 1 - as defined above, and the
  • Proportion of the group -AE-A 'or -A'-EA- in the group B can be chosen so that the mass of -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- from 0 to 90%, preferably 0% or 0.1 to 50% of the mass of the
  • Polysiloxane content S in the polymer is Polysiloxane content S in the polymer.
  • the first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds preferably relates to linear alkylene-oxide-modified polyquartezere polysiloxanes of the general formula (I 1 ), - [BN 1 -FN 1 ], - (I ' ) wherein m is 2 to 500,
  • R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000,
  • K is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -
  • E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure
  • A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-,
  • N 1 is a quaternary ammonium structure
  • R 4 represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ⁇ o-hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by O-, -NH, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and.
  • R 5 is R 4 or a single bond to R 4 or F
  • F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N 1 , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N 1 .
  • F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N 1 , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N 1 .
  • the possibility of a divalent substructure for R 4 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure in which R 5 in this case is a single bond to R 4 .
  • Examples are morpholinyl and piperidinyl structures.
  • R 4 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, - CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 14 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 14 , wherein R 14 denotes a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 6 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) - , -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • R 4 and R 5 can also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
  • R 4 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 6 , more preferably C 3 -C 16 , hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - and may be substituted by -OH, more preferably a C 3 - C 16 -hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 has the abovementioned meaning.
  • F is preferably a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S), a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, interrupted and can be substituted with -OH.
  • R 14 is preferably unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 -hydrocarbon radicals derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • R 14 furthermore preferably represents hydroxylated radicals from the group consisting of
  • m is 2 to 100, preferably 2 to 50.
  • n is 0 to 1000, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80.
  • q is 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20 and particularly preferably 2 to 10.
  • r is 0 to 200, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 50, and even more preferably 0 to 20.
  • a particular embodiment of the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (II),
  • N 2 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, the general formula
  • R 8 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 - C 2 o-hydrocarbon group represented by -0-, -NH-, -C (O) - substituted by -OH and interrupted -, -C (S) can be,
  • R 9 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C r C 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R 8 or to a trivalent radical K, and the radicals R 8 and R 9 within the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (II) may be identical or different from one another.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the second embodiment are preferably ( ⁇ , ⁇ -alkylene oxide and polyquaternary modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (H '),
  • C 20 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NH-,
  • -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, N 2 is a quaternary ammonium structure
  • R 8 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched dC ⁇ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
  • R 9 R 8 or a single bond to K or R 8 , A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-
  • E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure
  • R 16 H, straight-chain, cyclopean or branched dC ⁇ o-hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and
  • -OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.
  • K can be branched and then participates with two bonds in the quaternization of N 2 .
  • divalent substructure for R 8 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R 9 is then a single bond to R 2 .
  • R 8 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3) - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH
  • R 17 is a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C r C radical -Kohlenwasser-8 by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • R 8 and R 9 may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
  • K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 16 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above.
  • Preferred for K are, for example, radicals of the following structures: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 - or
  • R 8 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 6 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O), -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.
  • R 16 is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic or olefinic.
  • -CH 2 CH (OH) CH 2 OCH 2 CH CH 2 , -CH 2 CCH, -C (O) CH 3 , -C (O) CH 2 CH 3 .
  • R 17 preferably represents unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 -hydrocarbon radicals which are derived from the corresponding fatty acids or else hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably to saccharidecarboxylic acids.
  • R 17 is particularly preferably selected from the group
  • n is preferably 0 to 200, more preferably 0 to 80, particularly preferably 10 to 80.
  • q is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and particularly preferably 2 to 10.
  • r is preferably 0 to 100, and more preferably 0 to 50.
  • r is preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably 0 to 10.
  • polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) as an essential constituent of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to as so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (III): - [KSKN 3 Jm- (Hl )
  • N 3 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula
  • R 10 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched Cr C 30 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C ( S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or represents a single bond to K
  • R 11 is -AER 2 , wherein -AER 2 has the abovementioned meaning.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the third embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyparternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (III ' ),
  • R 10 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
  • -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or a
  • A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- and E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of structure
  • R 18 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ⁇ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic, and
  • K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 4 -O- hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or contains a quaternary ammonium structure N 5 , with N 5 meaning - (R 19 JN + (R 20 ) -
  • R 19 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or a single bond to R 10 , and R 20 is -AE-, as defined above.
  • R 10 and R 19 are independently of one another preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 21 or - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 21 , wherein R 21 is a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • a bivalent substructure for R 10 is a cyclic system-forming one Structure wherein R10 then has a single bond to K, preferably to a tertiary amino structure or to the quaternary structure N 5 via R 19 .
  • R 1 in the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes can be referred to the above statements.
  • R 10 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 25 hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can be.
  • R 19 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 25 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH can.
  • K is furthermore preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 -,
  • R 20 is as defined above.
  • R 2 or R 18 is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 8 -hydrocarbon radical radical which is represented by -O- or -
  • C (O) - may be interrupted and -OH substituted and acetylenic or olefinic. More preferably R 2 or R 18 is d-Ce-alkyl,
  • R 21 is an unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 hydrocarbyl radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C 3 -C 4 radicals and derived from the group of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • R 21 is:
  • m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50
  • n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80
  • q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50 particularly preferably 2 to 20, and more preferably q is 2 to 10
  • r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, more preferably 0 to 20, and even more preferably r is 0 to 10.
  • polysiloxanes which is referred to below as the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes to be used according to the invention
  • N 4 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 12 JN + (R 13 ) - wherein R 12 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chained, cyclic or branched C r C 2 o hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
  • R 13 may have the meanings of R 12 , or represents a single bond to K or R 12 , and the radicals R 12 and R 13 may be the same or different from each other.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the fourth embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (IV)
  • R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 -C 4 -fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, K is a divalent, or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -
  • N is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R 12 ) N + (R 13 ) -, wherein R is 12 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
  • R 13 is R 12 or a single bond to K or R 12 ,
  • A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-
  • K can be branched and then be involved with two bonds in the quaternization of N 4 .
  • R 12 is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R 13 is then a single bond to R 12 .
  • R 12 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 ,
  • R 22 is a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 4 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH- , -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • R 12 and R 13 may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
  • R 12 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 - C 6 hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and interrupted by -OH may be substituted.
  • K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 6 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 - or
  • R 22 is preferably an unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 -hydrocarbon radical which is derived from the corresponding fatty acids or has hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • R22 More preferred is R22.
  • m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50.
  • n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80.
  • q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, and particularly preferably 2 q is 20 to 20, more preferably q is 2 to 10.
  • r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, and particularly preferably 0 to 20, more preferably r is 0 to 10.
  • Ci-C 22 alkyl or C 3 o-hydrocarbon radical as used above, means aliphatic in the present invention
  • Hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 30 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3-trimethylhexyl.
  • C r C 22 fluoroalkyl as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Examples include monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2 trifluorobutyl listed.
  • aryl means in the context of the present invention are unsubstituted or mono or polysubstituted with OH, F, Cl CF3 1 C r C 6 alkyl, -C 6 alkoxy, C 3 -C 7 - cycloalkyl , C 2 -C 6 alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl.
  • the term may optionally also mean naphthyl.
  • a particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes according to the invention as constituent a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V):
  • the groups K, S, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA- within the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V) may be the same or different from each other, and the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) of 100: 1 to 1: 10O iSt,
  • N 5 is an ammonium group of the general formula - (R 23 JN + (R 24 ) - ist.worin
  • R 23 represents hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 6 -C 10 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, - C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
  • R 24 represents hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, - C (O) -, C (S) - and substituted by -OH or is a single bond to a divalent radical R 23 , and the radicals R 23 and R 24 within the group - N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
  • F 1 represents a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) - or -C (S) - or by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein a plurality of N 5 and F 1 may each be the same or different from each other.
  • Polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) is between 100: 1 and 1: 100.
  • This molar ratio can, as shown in the publication WO 02/10257, by the choice of the molar ratio of the starting compounds, in particular the ratio of the invention preferably used ( ⁇ , ⁇ -Halogencarbonklarepolyalkylenoxidester-
  • Length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane blocks contained therein Length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane blocks contained therein.
  • polysiloxanes K is a divalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 4 carbon atoms which has a hydroxyl group and which may be interrupted by an oxygen atom.
  • F1 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - or may be interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein the carbon atoms resulting from the radical E are not counted among the 2 to 30 carbon atoms of the C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical become.
  • R 25 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH , particularly preferably methyl,
  • R 26 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 2 o-hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, in particular is preferably methyl, or is a single bond to a divalent radical R 25 , and the radicals R 25 and R 26 within the group -N 5 -F 2 -N 5 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other, and
  • F 2 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -.
  • F 2 is a branched, preferably straight-chain C 1 -C 6 -alkanediyl group, of which a 1,6-hexanediyl (or hexamethylene) group is preferred.
  • the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - is a group of the formula:
  • R 27 and R 28 are each hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 -alkyl or hydroxy (C 1 -C 6 ) -alkyl, preferably hydrogen,
  • F 3 is a divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above.
  • F 3 is particularly preferably a group of the formula
  • E is as defined above and D is each a single bond or a straight or branched C 1 -C 6 alkanediyl group, with the proviso that D is not a single bond when it binds to a terminal E group oxygen atom.
  • the group -D-E-D- is replaced by a group of the formula
  • D is a straight or branched C 1 -C 6 alkanediyl group and r and q are as defined above.
  • the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units can be arranged arbitrarily, for example as a random copolymer unit or as a block copolymer unit.
  • v is preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 70, still more preferably 1 to 40.
  • w is preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 70, even more preferably 0 to 40.
  • polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) are composed of two different types of the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -.
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) may be cyclic or linear.
  • the terminal groups result either from the bifunctional monomers described below for the preparation or their functionalized derivatives or from monoamines which are added as chain terminators during the polymerization.
  • the terminal groups resulting from the use of the monoamine chain-stopper are preferably present as ammonium groups, either by quaternization or protonation.
  • K is one of the groups of the formula: - (CH2) 3O
  • q is preferably in the range from 1 to 50, in particular 2 to 50, especially 2 to 20 and especially 2 to 10, and r is in the range of 0 to 100, in particular 0 to 50, especially 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10.
  • the organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s) is expediently selected from inorganic radicals such as chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, Propionate, octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above, chloride and bromide preferably result from the reaction of the alkyl halide groups with amine groups.
  • inorganic radicals such as chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, Propionate, octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above
  • polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment are present in protonated form as amine salts or as amines.
  • polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment of the invention are conveniently prepared by one of the methods described in the laid-open specification WO 02/10257.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ® from GE Bayer Silicones.
  • the products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred.
  • Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as component a) of the active ingredient combination according to the invention.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above are very particularly preferred in the active ingredient complex according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0% by weight from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each based on the total composition.
  • Preferred viscosities of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are between 0.1 and 5000 cSt, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 3000 cSt.
  • the most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt.
  • the most preferred range is between IcSt and 50 cSt.
  • dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and polyammonium-polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof are preferably used. Particularly preferred is the use of dimethicones and dimethiconols and mixtures thereof. Very particular preference is given to the use of dimethicones.
  • these substances are used in the molar mass ranges and viscosity ranges already described. For the mixtures of at least two silicones, this means that it is highly preferred according to the invention if, in this case, the abovementioned properties lie in the same molecular weights and viscosity ranges.
  • the ingredients b) of the active ingredient combination according to the invention are selected from the group of ester oils.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols. Both the fatty acids and the fatty alcohols can be linear, saturated or unsaturated, as well as branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Particularly preferred are the esters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 16 carbon atoms. Very particular preference is given to the esters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 6 C atoms. Most preferred are the esters of fatty acids having 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acids preferably have 6 to 22 C atoms.
  • the fatty acids have a C chain of 6 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acids have a C chain of 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils with a C chain length of the fatty acid of 12 to 18 C atoms and a C chain length of the alcohol of 2 to 6 C atoms.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure cracking of natural fats and oils, obtained in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petrolinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and Brassidylalkohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristyl
  • the ester oils according to the invention are used in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight in the compositions according to the invention. Amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight are preferred. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. Very particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • the mixing ratio of polysiloxane compound to ester oil is according to the invention 10: 1 to 1:10. Preference is given to a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5. Particularly preferred is a mixing ratio of 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5. Most preferred is a mixing ratio of 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1, 5.
  • the total amount of polysiloxane compound and ester oil in the compositions of the invention is 0.1 to 20 wt.%. Preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.2 to 7.5% by weight and very particular preference to amounts of from 0.3 to 5% by weight.
  • Further particularly preferred ingredients c), which interact in an outstanding manner with the active ingredient combination according to the invention, are selected from at least one of the groups of polymers, natural substances or natural substances, fatty substances and surface-active compounds, in particular the mild surface-active compounds.
  • the first group of ingredients c) are polymers (G).
  • polymers are therefore added to the compositions used according to the invention, with both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven to be suitable in principle.
  • the charged polymers prove to be more advantageous over the nonionic polymers.
  • Preferred within the charged polymers are again the cationic and the amphoteric polymers. In the following some examples of particularly preferred polymers are described.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • R 1 -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion
  • copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. in the Within the scope of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 1 stands for a methyl group RR 22 , RR 33 and RR 44 sstteehhen for methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
  • Such products are obtainable, for example, under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (Ethnichem) commercially.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-Ci. 4- alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C ⁇ -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers, in where the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, strength nonaqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92 are commercially available as approximately 50%.
  • cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia ® guar and Jaguar ® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and Amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia ® guar and Jaguar ® products
  • polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and Amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Merquat ® 100 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)
  • Merquat ® 550 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • polyquaternium 2 polyquaternium 17, polyquaternium 18 and polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain
  • cationic polymers can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • Other cationic polymers which can be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers.
  • polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen CMF ® 1 Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.
  • cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed soy protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropy
  • the cationic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • cationic polymers are used as ingredient c) of the active ingredient complex A, if the ratio between the ingredients b) and c) 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3, particularly preferably 2 : 1 to 1: 2 and most preferably 1: 2 to 1: 1.
  • Very particularly preferred cationic polymers are cationic polymers based on cellulose, starch and / or guar. Such polymers are for example marketed with the trade names Polymer JR ®, ® Cosmedia Guar, Jaguar® or Structure ® commercially. Furthermore, it is very particularly preferred if the ratio of the two active substances with one another, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) and the cationic polymers b), is 1: 1 to 1: 5.
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 is commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • anionic polymers are used as ingredient b) of the active ingredient complex A, if the ratio between the constituents b) and c) is 1: 10 to 1: 5, preferably 1: 5 to 1: 3, particularly preferably 1 : 2 to 1: 1.
  • amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO 3 ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • Amphoteric polymers like the cationic polymers, are most preferred polymers.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A ° (G3-I) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH 4
  • n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A H is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ;
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • amphoteric polymers are used as ingredient b) of the active ingredient complex A, if the ratio between the ingredients a) and b) is 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3, particularly preferably 2 : 1 to 1: 2 and most preferably 1: 2 to 1: 1.
  • amphoteric polymers are available under the trade name Merquat ®. Within these types, the cationic charge varies in different products, so this range includes both cationic and amphoteric polymers.
  • a particularly preferred amphoteric polymer of this series is the product Merquat 280.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain as ingredient b) in a further embodiment nonionogenic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules).
  • Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones.
  • the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders.
  • Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles.
  • Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides.
  • Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron.
  • Such products based on a polymethacrylate Copolymer are, for example under the trade mark Polytrap ® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning).
  • Other polymer powders for example based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) having a particle size 2-10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m 2 / g under the trade name Orgasol ® 2002 DU Nat Cos ( Atochem SA, Paris).
  • spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene AKZO powder (ACCUREL EP 400) or silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powders.
  • the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL
  • Plastic Powder FP styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers
  • ACCUREL EP 400 polyethylene and polypropylene AKZO powder
  • silicone polymers Silicone Powder X2-1605
  • the polymer powders described above are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Polymers regardless of their chemical structure and charge, can also be characterized by their function in cosmetic agents. In particular, a distinction is made in:
  • Antistatic polymers With the help of the electrical properties of these polymers, the surfaces of the cosmetic-treated substrates skin, nails and keratinic fibers are influenced in their electrical potential. In hair care, for example, this effect reduces the effect known as "fly-away effect” and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers, but it also affects the skin surface on the skin surface, and some of these polymers have their optimum effect in a certain pH range.
  • Film-forming polymers By film-forming polymers are meant those polymers which on drying produce a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails leave. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Emulsion-Stabilizing Polymers are also among the polymers preferred according to the invention. These are understood to mean polymers which essentially support the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively affecting the continuous or disperse phase. This positive influence may be due to an electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or a film formation on the surface of the droplets.
  • Lipid thickening polymers For this purpose, polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels.
  • Suspending Agent Another essential function of polymers in cosmetic agents is the function of suspending agent. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids.
  • Aqueous phase-thickening polymers Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems.
  • a film-forming cationic or amphoteric polymer is particularly preferably selected if the composition is to be used as a styling agent or setting agent.
  • the polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • the ionic polymers very particularly preferably when using the cationic and / or the amphoteric polymers, a significantly increased amount of further active ingredients is deposited on the skin or the hair from the cosmetic composition.
  • this combination of active ingredients increases the penetration of active ingredients into the hair up to a molecular weight of about 1000 daltons.
  • the radicals R 1 to R 4 are each independently H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , iso-propyl, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , iso-butyl and Pentyl, iso-pentyl and neo-pentyl.
  • a further ingredient c) is used in the active ingredient complex according to the invention, but at least two further ingredients c), especially if the second ingredient c) is selected from the natural substances and / or the Naturally analogous substances and here again in particular clearly preferred, if at least one of the further ingredients of group c) is selected from the group of protein hydrolysates, vitamins or plant extracts, wherein the highest Preferred is a selection of the amino acids, the vitamins of the A, B and E series as well as a Z-pyrrolidone- ⁇ -carboxylic acid derivative.
  • ingredient c) of the active ingredient complex A according to the invention natural substances and / or naturally-analogous substances are outstandingly suitable.
  • the natural substances and the nature-analogous substances include 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, vitamins, their derivatives and precursors, and finally plant extracts.
  • 2-Pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J) is a further substance group which is suitable as ingredient b) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention.
  • the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen carries a 4 alkyl groups to three C r to C are preferred.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 and in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • the active ingredient combination according to the invention comprising a polysiloxane compound a) and an ester oil b) and as further ingredient c) contains a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J), the moisture of skin and hair treated therewith and the skin and Haarffühl in wet and dry conditions significantly increased. This effect is confirmed both experimentally and in panel tests with volunteers.
  • the ingredient c) according to the invention which is used in addition to the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention, can furthermore be a protein hydrolyzate and / or its derivative (P).
  • This synergistic combination according to the invention causes, in particular, an increase in mildness and skin tolerance, but also a fine, creamy foam.
  • This cream which is very fine in structure, creamy and extremely pleasant to the touch, is achieved in all compositions containing surface-active substances. In particular, however, in surface-active compositions.
  • the effectiveness of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention can be further increased by the simultaneous use of polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids. In these cases, even after the application of the particular composition, significantly more protein hydrolyzate or its derivative remains on the surface of the skin or hair, resulting in an improved effect. The skin and hair are thus significantly strengthened and smoothed in their structure.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • the present teaching according to the invention also encompasses that in the case of the amino acids, these may be present in the form of derivatives such as, for example, the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-esters.
  • the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl group may be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the alcohols on which the esterification is based are methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the amino acids can be simultaneously derivatized on both the N atom and the O atom.
  • the amino acids can also be used in salt form, in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.
  • amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, citrulline, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine , Norvaline, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine.
  • Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, Lysine, Proline, Hydroxyproline Senn and Asparagine Alanine, Glycine, Histidm, Lysine, Senn and Argmin are most preferably used. Glycine, Histidine, Lysine and Senn are most preferably used
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolyzates, which may also be in the form of salts
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gehta-Sol ® (German Gelatin factories Stoess & Co), Lexem ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda)
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin for example soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) lexeme ® (Inolex) Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydrot ⁇ tium ® (Croda) and Crotem ® (Croda) available
  • protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae, as well as protein hydrolyzates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates
  • Pearls of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic calcium salts, trace elements and proteins Pearls can be easily obtained from cultivated mussels Cultivation of mussels can be done in fresh water as well as in sea water This can affect the ingredients of the pearls According to the invention is preferred a pearl extract derived from marine or saltwater cultured mussels.
  • the pearls consist largely of aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter are proteins.
  • pearls contain magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic compounds and phosphates
  • the beads are then pulverized to produce the pearl extract.
  • the pulverized beads are then extracted by conventional methods.
  • Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the preparation of the pearl extracts.
  • Under water are demineralized water as well as sea water while lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, diglycerol, triglycerin, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or seawater.
  • Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the pearl proteins can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed.
  • the essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine.
  • the bead extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids these amino acids.
  • the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.
  • a preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates.
  • a most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls.
  • pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
  • one of the above-described pearl extracts is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight.
  • amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.
  • Silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.).
  • the raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together.
  • Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.
  • the essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids.
  • the sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins.
  • the essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr) ,
  • the water-insoluble fibroin belongs to the skieroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure.
  • the main components of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight).
  • Another important structural feature of the fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.
  • Preference according to the invention as active ingredients b) in the active ingredient complex (A) can be used: native sericin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed SiIk, a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, in which mixture the serine and / or or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt.%, The aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10 to 40 wt.% And the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt.% Are included, with the proviso that the Quantities of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add to 100 wt.%,
  • the active ingredient complex (A) native, converted into a soluble form fibroin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which as the main constituent of the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala Gly, the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, a mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides , Sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture, the glycine and / or its derivatives in amounts of 20 to 60 wt.%, The alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10 to 40 wt.%, And the tyrosine and its derivatives
  • both silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used simultaneously in the compositions according to the invention containing the active ingredient complex (A), it may be preferred according to the invention that at least one of the two silk components, fibroin or sericin, is used in the native or at most solubilized form. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.
  • the two silk protein hydrolysates are in the ratio of 10:90 to 70:30, in particular 15:85 to 50:50 and very particularly 20:80 be used to 40:60 based on their respective contents of active ingredient in the preparations of the invention.
  • the derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolysates of sericin and Fibroin and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silicon, aminoacids, hydroxypropyltrimium hydrolyzed silica, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silica, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, cited by Washington, DC 20036-4702).
  • anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17 lh Street, NW, Suite 300 Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed silica, sodium lauroyl hydrolyzed silica or sodium stearoyl hydrolyzed silica.
  • the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products commercially available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed SiIk and Hydrolyzed SiIk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol.
  • Palmitoyl Oligopeptide Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed SiIk.
  • compositions used according to the invention contain the silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives in amounts of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred. Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.
  • component c) which can additionally be used in an outstanding manner in the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention as a natural substance and / or a natural analogous substance also means a plant extract (L).
  • this active ingredient combination according to the invention also has a favorable influence on the moisture balance of the skin.
  • it shows an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian are used.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • the combination of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives (K) as active ingredient group c) has proved to be particularly advantageous in all agents.
  • the skin leaves after treatment with these most preferred components a much neater, more vital, stronger impression with significantly improved gloss and a very good grip both wet and dry.
  • this active ingredient complex affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and the damaged hair, leads to a regulation of the fat balance, so that the thus treated skin and hair greases more slowly and does not prone to overgrease.
  • this complex of active ingredients has an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • nature-analogous substances include short-chain carboxylic acids (N).
  • short-chain carboxylic acids (N) as ingredient c) can additionally be used in the active ingredient complex (A).
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids are the adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention leads to an improved skin smoothness and to an improved skin structure and a smoothed hair structure.
  • their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also include the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts.
  • neutralized acids can also be used with alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • the sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred salts.
  • carboxylic acid as active ingredient (c) from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.
  • the particularly preferred active compounds (c) according to the invention include
  • Polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids are polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids examples include glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • these acids are used in the form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups.
  • Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in ⁇ - position.
  • substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids examples include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, Toluoylklare, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, Bicarbaminklad, 4,4 '- dicyano-6, 6
  • n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical
  • dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one is from a polyunsaturated Fatty acid as Dicarbonklarekomponente go out. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. Acrylic acid, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are particularly preferred as the monocarboxylic acid component. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also include the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts.
  • neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active compound (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, Gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.
  • the active compounds (b) according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 % By weight up to 5% by weight.
  • polyhydroxy compounds (C) are understood as meaning all substances which fulfill the definition in Römpp 's Lexikon der Chemie of 1999, Verlag Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups. In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:
  • Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups such as trimethylolpropane, carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and salts thereof, in particular monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by conventional and in the literature known -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,
  • monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and the literature known -OH - and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and also in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters may be present, furthermore very particularly preferred oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, which also in Formed by aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and also in the form of methyl ethers and as a phosphate ester may be present.
  • polyols according to the invention examples include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, sorb
  • Preferred polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythrose, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose , Particular preference is given to using glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose. However, the use of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose is very particularly preferred.
  • the active compounds (C) according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 % By weight up to 10% by weight.
  • the active ingredient c) comprises at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups.
  • these compounds those having 2 to 12 OH groups and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.
  • the (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.
  • polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.
  • the glycerol has an outstanding importance.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.
  • agents according to the invention which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.05 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s).
  • agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV)
  • k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means.
  • Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, Octapropylene glycols, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene
  • mixtures of "short chain” polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long chain” polyalkylene glycol ethers have advantages. Particular preference is given to mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more Preferred mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, Triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahydylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV) in which n is the number 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV) in which n represents the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5 : 1 to 1: 1.
  • Another group of ingredients which can be advantageously used as synergists c) for the polysiloxane compounds a) in the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention is the group of fatty substances (D).
  • Fatty substances are fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes.
  • the fatty substances can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion.
  • fatty substances are natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and as the isopalmitic Commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 -and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or Isocarb® ® 24 available for purchase.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which can increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) m R 1
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is O or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably O or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is O.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. %.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that a mixture of a plurality of fatty substances (D) from different classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fatty substances, can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components necessarily contain at least one further silicone component in this case.
  • the silicone component in this case is selected from the dimethiconols and the amodimethicones.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • Another group of ingredients which can be advantageously used as synergist c) in the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention is the group of surface-active substances.
  • Surfactants are understood in particular to be surfactants and emulsifiers as well as solubilizers.
  • the term surfactants (E) is understood to mean surface-active substances which can form adsorption layers on upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.
  • Isethionates It is known to make the sodium salts of C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and bar pressing into a suitable form for transport and use. In this way, needles, granules, noodles, bars and handy toilet soap pieces can be produced.
  • Sulfobernsteinklado- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • the Sulfobernsteinklamonoalkyl (C -C 24 ) ester disodium salts are prepared by known method z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinklaester.
  • Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettkladester are accessible by hydrogenation.
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms
  • alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE -A-37 25 030,
  • OX in the R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X
  • n is from 1 to 10
  • X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II) R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (EI-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms, with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins.
  • These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz.
  • Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® long been commercially.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO "1 - or - SO 3 9 group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name
  • Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 2A -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and for the formation of internal Salts are capable.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example
  • polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
  • Hydroxymix ethers as described for example in DE-OS 19738866, Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures which can be obtained as described above.
  • alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C12 / i 4 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.
  • R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference is made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petro-, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or those technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petro-
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the sugar surfactants may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.
  • nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.
  • the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • nonionic surfactants As additives for further improving the creaminess of the foam and the feel on the skin during and after use, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which may be recommended for preparing the compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of 0.1 - 20 wt .-% of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2-18.
  • Such products can be prepared by addition of ethylene oxide to z.
  • fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms to fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or to glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial esters based on C -C fatty acids or on
  • the HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship
  • wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.
  • cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type are cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference.
  • behentrimonium chloride or bromide docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide
  • Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues.
  • these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ® KDMP (Clariant).
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • preferred Esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with Diethanolalkylaminen and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1, 2-Dihydroxypropyldialkylaminen.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the agents of the invention may comprise at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring.
  • the formula (E5-V) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula I each contain the same hydrocarbon radical for R.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms.
  • a very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91.
  • the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates.
  • the imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, but they may Of course, also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions of the invention.
  • Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Lanoquat ® DES 50 or Empigen CSC.
  • the cationic surfactants (E5) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • the surface-active substances include emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H. -D. Dörfler, Grenz perennial- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH., Weinheim, 1994". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example the commercial product erhaltliche Montanov ® 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which bind to C-atom 3 of the
  • Steroid scaffold carry a hydroxyl group and both from animal tissue
  • Zoosterins are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium,
  • a per se known emulsifier water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1 - 5 wt .-% proved.
  • This is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester, as described in more detail in DE-PS 11 65 574.
  • the addition of such mixed esters achieves a particularly creamy, fine-bubble foam and a pleasant feel on the skin when using the body cleanser.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, in accordance with the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Surface-active substances which are preferred according to the invention are the so-called mild surface-active substances.
  • the mildness of surfactants and emulsifiers can be determined by various methods. For example, the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model are used for this purpose. Common to all test methods is that, in principle, it is measured against a standard to which the results are referred.
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
  • polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols is a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • teaching of the invention also includes that these particularly mild surface-active substances can be used both individually and mixed in the combination of active substances according to the invention.
  • a very particular advantage in the use of these particular surface-active substances as active component c) together with the active ingredient complex (A) is that the cosmetic products produced therewith, in particular foaming agents, have a very excellent foaming behavior, excellent creaminess, excellent foam stability and a very good have high foam volume. This is the case even if the so-called high-foaming surface-active substances such as, for example, alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates are largely dispensed with. An almost complete waiver of alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl sulfates means that the proportion of these surface-active substances at most 8% by weight, based on the total composition. The proportion of alkyl ether sulfate and / or alkyl sulfate is preferably only 5% by weight.
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the combination of active substances (A) according to the invention markedly increases the separation of the UV filters on the skin and the hair. This has significant consequences.
  • the sun protection factor can be increased compared to prior art compositions.
  • the sun protection factor can be achieved to a conventional composition with a lower concentration of UV filter. In addition to a commercial advantage, this also results in lower stress on the skin and hair of the consumer. As a result, UV protective compositions become considerably more compatible.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • suitable UV filters are amino-benzoic acid 4-, N 1 N 1 N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate (Homosalate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl)
  • Methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and their ethyl esters, polymers of N- ⁇ (2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl ⁇ -acrylamide.
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these should Compounds in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function , Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example
  • Salicylic acid esters benzimidazoles
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferred a group, especially an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) X -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X ' , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are C 1 Alkyl groups, R 3 is a Ci. 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ' for a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 each represent a methyl group and R 3 represents either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • compositions of the invention are Deowirkstoffe.
  • the combination of active substances (A) according to the invention significantly increases analytically detectable the deposition of Deowirkstoffen on the skin. In the panel test, this is also noticeable through a significantly prolonged effect.
  • esterase inhibitors dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid, adipic acid, adipic acid, ethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate are antibacterial agents which influence the microbial flora and sweat-decomposing To kill bacteria or to inhibit their growth, may also be included in the stick preparations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. Particularly effective has also been 5-chloro-2- (2,4-diklorophenoxy) phenol, which under the Irgasan® brand is distributed by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH
  • Dyestuff precursors are oxidation dye precursors of the developer (X1) and coupler type (X2), natural and synthetic substantive dyes (Y) and precursors of naturally-analogous dyes , such as indole and indoline derivatives, as well as mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups
  • oxidation dye precursors of the developer (X1) and coupler type (X2), natural and synthetic substantive dyes (Y) and precursors of naturally occurring dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups can be used.
  • oxidation dye precursors of the developer type (X1) are usually primary aromatic amines with another, located in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino, Diaminopyridinde ⁇ vate, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-Am ⁇ nopyrazolder ⁇ vate and 2,4,5, 6-Tetraam ⁇ nopyr ⁇ m ⁇ d ⁇ n and its derivatives used
  • Suitable developer components are, for example, p-Phenylend ⁇ am ⁇ n, p-Toluylend ⁇ am ⁇ n, p- Aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -ethanol , 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyr
  • Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • coupler-type oxidation dye precursors (X2) m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.
  • coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4 -aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3- (ethylamino) - 4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4
  • coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4- Chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1, 4-bis- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino 6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzo
  • Directly acting dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
  • such indoles and indolines are used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of a Etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole. dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg.
  • hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides are used as the hydrochlorides.
  • amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and co-aminocarboxylic acids.
  • Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • Both the oxidation dye precursors and the substantive dyes and the precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition, contain.
  • the advantage which is achieved by the combination of active substances (A) according to the invention in conjunction with the dye precursors is a markedly improved deposition of the dye precursors on the hair.
  • the active ingredient complex according to the invention also causes a faster penetration into the hair.
  • the desired hair color is formed faster.
  • the application time of the composition can be shortened by at least 10% with the same dyeing result.
  • a shortening of the application time is up to 40% with the combination according to the invention the same color result is possible. All of these effects are achieved with a simultaneously increased wash resistance of the formed hair color.
  • the invention includes the teaching that on the other hand, the concentration of dyes can be significantly reduced due to the effects achieved. On the one hand, this is economically very important, but on the other hand, this also means a considerable improvement in the dermatological compatibility of the entire composition.
  • a very particularly preferred composition of the invention therefore relates to cosmetic center! for dyeing the skin and hair, comprising the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention and a dye precursor, and the use of this agent and a method for hair coloring with this composition.
  • Hair dyes especially if the dyeing is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11.
  • the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
  • ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate
  • oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred.
  • enzymes which enzymes are used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes are used, the electrons from suitable developer components ( Reductant) transferred to atmospheric oxygen.
  • Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
  • the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium.
  • the application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed.
  • the Nach Warren with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.
  • the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and nachshampooniert if desired.
  • the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
  • an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10.
  • the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.
  • the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
  • metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
  • Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • the active ingredient complex (A) directly into dyeing or toning agents, which means using the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention in combination with dyes and / or dye precursors.
  • preservatives are, for example: aromatic alcohols, such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol,
  • Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde
  • Parabens for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben,
  • Pentanediol 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decandol, 1, 2-dodecane, 1, 2
  • Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazohdinyl
  • Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones, such as
  • Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites, cationic substances such as Quatern ⁇ um-15, Benzalkoniumchlo ⁇ d, Benzethoniumchlo ⁇ d, Polyaminopropylbiguanid,
  • Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone oleate,
  • Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,
  • aromatic alcohols such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,
  • Parabens for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben 1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2- hexadecanediol,
  • the water activity in the compositions according to the invention can also be reduced to the extent that growth of microorganisms can no longer take place.
  • glycerol and sorbin are used in particular.
  • the active substance complex (A) according to the invention contributes to the preservation being possible in an outstanding manner with the mild preservative additives. But the complete abandonment of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.
  • the amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt.% And most preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt.% Based on the total amount of the composition ,
  • compositions containing the active ingredient combination (A) according to the invention are perfumes.
  • perfumes The excellent and completely surprising positive results of compositions containing the active ingredient combination (A) and perfume according to the invention, has already been described in detail above.
  • perfume means perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances. As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.
  • Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, chamomile ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore, animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate,
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g.
  • the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol;
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams such as limonene and pinene.
  • fragrance oils are useful as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are found, for example, in US Pat. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Dverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3 rd . Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997.
  • a fragrance In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, with molecular weight also playing an important role in addition to the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception.
  • Adhesive-resistant fragrances which can advantageously be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannöl, Edeltannenzapfen oil, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce algae oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil , Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copa ⁇ va balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil , Musk Grain
  • fragrances can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances.
  • These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, - amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, Bornyl acetate, bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol
  • the lower-boiling fragrances include natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures.
  • Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.
  • boiling points of the individual fragrances are substantially below 300 ° C.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention wherein preferably at least 50% of the fragrances contained have a boiling point below 300 ° C., advantageously at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%. , in an even more advantageous manner at least 80%, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 90%, in particular even 100%.
  • Boiling points below 300 ° C. are advantageous because the fragrances in question would have too low a volatility at higher boiling points. However, in order to be able to "flow out" of the particle at least partially and to develop fragrance, a certain volatility of the fragrances is advantageous.
  • Unstable fragrances for the purposes of this invention can be identified by incorporating a perfume composition comprising at least 6 fragrances into activated / dehydrated zeolite X and storing the resulting sample for 24 hours at room temperature. Then the fragrances are extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography to determine the stability.
  • a fragrance is considered to be unstable in the context of this invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95 wt .-% of this perfume decomposed into degradation products, and in the extraction can not be provided again.
  • the unstable perfume in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.
  • perfume adsorbed in / on the particle ad / at least 4 advantageously at least 5, in a further advantageous manner at least 6, more preferably at least 7, even more preferably at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular at least Contains 10 different fragrances, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • the logP value of the perfume components adsorbed in / on the particle ad / is substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, more preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, in particular 90% of the perfume components fulfill this log requirement, then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present.
  • the logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the partition coefficient between n-octanol and water.
  • the octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the ratio between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol.
  • a perfume ingredient with higher partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic.
  • the stated conditions for the logP are advantageous because it ensures that the fragrances can be better retained in the pores of the support material and also better on objects which are treated with the particles (for example, indirectly by treatment with a detergent formulation, which comprises the particles according to the invention) precipitate.
  • logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; For example, the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS) of Irvine, California, contains many such values along with references to the original literature.
  • the logP values can also be calculated, for example with the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS the rule of ClogP values.
  • the term logP values also includes the Clog P values.
  • Clog P values should then be used for hydrophobicity estimation if there are no experimental log P values for certain perfume ingredients.
  • the perfume can also be combined with a perfume fixative. It is believed that perfume fixatives can slow the exhalation of higher volatile fractions of perfume.
  • the perfume which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material comprises a perfume fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, musk (derivatives) and mixtures thereof, the fixative amount preferably being from 1 to 55% by weight. , Advantageously, 2 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 40 wt .-% of the total amount of perfume.
  • the particles contain a viscosity of liquids, in particular perfume-increasing agent, preferably PEG (polyethylene glycol), advantageously having a molecular weight of 400 to 2000, wherein the viscosity increasing agent in a preferred manner in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.15 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is contained, based on the particles.
  • PEG polyethylene glycol
  • the viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I:
  • n of about 5 to> 100,000 corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary.
  • the products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short).
  • PEOX polyethylene oxides
  • the preferably used Polyethylene glycols may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.
  • the particularly preferred polyethylene glycols include those having molecular weights between 400 and 2000. It can be used in particular also polyethylene glycols, which are present in a liquid state at room temperature and a pressure of 1 bar; Here is mainly of polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 200, 400 and 600 the speech.
  • the perfumes are generally added in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, of the total composition.
  • the perfumes may be added to the compositions in liquid form, neat or diluted with a solvent for perfuming.
  • Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for.
  • ethanol isopropanol
  • diethylene glycol monoethyl ether glycerol
  • propylene glycol 1, 2-butylene glycol
  • dipropylene glycol diethyl phthalate
  • triethyl citrate isopropyl myristate, etc.
  • the perfumes for the compositions of the invention may be adsorbed to a carrier which provides both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product and a controlled release in use.
  • a carrier which provides both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product and a controlled release in use.
  • Such carriers can be porous inorganic materials such as light sulfate, silica gels, zeolites, gypsum, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete, etc., or organic materials such as woods and cellulosic based materials.
  • perfume oils for the compositions according to the invention can also be microencapsulated, spray-dried, present as inclusion complexes or as extrusion products and added in this form to the compositions to be perfumed.
  • the properties of the perfume oils modified in this way can be further optimized by so-called "coating" with suitable materials with a view to a more targeted release of fragrance, for which purpose preferably wax-like plastics, such as, for example, As polyvinyl alcohol can be used.
  • suitable materials such as, for example, As polyvinyl alcohol can be used.
  • the consumer in the perception of the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by a aesthetically appealing packaging, optionally in conjunction with aromatic fragrances, may associate the composition of the invention with a stimulant such as confectionery or beverages.
  • a stimulant such as confectionery or beverages.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.
  • the ionogenic bitter substances have proved the nonionic superior, lonogenic bittering agents, preferably consisting of organic (s) cation (s) and organic (s) Anion (s), are therefore preferred for the inventive preparations.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances.
  • One such compound is commercially available for example under the trademark Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® available benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bitter substance is present in the moldings according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total composition. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • dyes for staining the compositions the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Kosmetician Anlagenrbesch” of the Farbstoffkommission of the Irish Anlagenstician, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.
  • the pH of the preparations according to the invention can in principle be between 2 and 11.
  • the pH is selected and adjusted very selectively depending on the purpose and use of the composition according to the invention.
  • colorants for example, it is preferably between 5 and 11, values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred.
  • cleaning compositions it is for example between 4 and 7.5, preferably between 4 and 6.
  • bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • acids are used as acids.
  • By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism.
  • Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • the action of the active ingredient according to the invention in the compositions according to the invention can be further increased in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups.
  • amino compounds include ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine.
  • these amines can also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids, such as, for example, ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride.
  • the amines are used together with the active compound according to the invention in ratios of from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.
  • Protic solvents such as, for example, water, and alcohols can also be present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • alcohols all find physiological unsuitable alcohols use, for example, methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof with each other.
  • the proportion of protic solvents in each case complements the composition according to the invention to 100 parts by weight.
  • At least 30% by weight of protic solvents particularly preferably at least 50% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 75% by weight, and most preferably at least 85% by weight, protic solvents are preferably present in the cosmetic compositions.
  • these preparations may in principle contain all other components known to those skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Reducing agents such as B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,
  • compositions according to the invention comprising the active ingredient complex (A) as a shaped body.
  • active ingredient complex (A) as a shaped body.
  • propellants To use the compositions of the invention as aerosol sprays propellants must be used.
  • the preferred propellants according to the invention are selected from the hydrocarbons having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons and mixtures of these substances.
  • Very particularly preferred propellants are propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether and the mixtures of these aforementioned propellant gases in each case with each other.
  • most preferred propellants are the mixtures of dimethyl ether with hydrocarbons. Within the group of hydrocarbons as propellant gases are preferred n-butane and propane.
  • the blowing agent is selected so that it can simultaneously serve as a solvent for other ingredients such as oil and wax components, the fatty substances (D).
  • the propellant can then serve as a solvent for these latter components, if they are soluble at 20 0 C to at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the propellant in this.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the said hydrocarbons or mixtures of said hydrocarbons with dimethyl ether as sole blowing agent.
  • the invention expressly includes the Concomitant use of blowing agent of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the fluorocarbons.
  • the propellant gases are present in amounts of 5 to 98% by weight, preferably 10 to 98% by weight and more preferably 20 to 98% by weight, very particularly preferably 40 to 98% by weight, based in each case on the total aerosol composition ,
  • compositions of the invention may be packaged in commercial aerosol cans.
  • the cans can be tinplate or aluminum.
  • the cans can be internally coated to minimize the risk of corrosion.
  • compositions of the present invention are used as a non-aerosol spray application, no propellant is included.
  • the spray heads must always be selected according to the required spray rates.
  • the cans are equipped with a suitable spray head. Depending on the spray head, discharge rates based on fully filled cans of 0.1 g / s to 5.0 g / s are possible.
  • the spray rate is determined so that a filled with propellant gas and the corresponding composition and sealed with the relevant valve aerosol can at room temperature (about 23 0 C) is first weighed.
  • the can, including its contents, is shaken vigorously by hand ten times, so that the contents mix well.
  • the valve of the vertical can is actuated for 10 seconds. Thereafter, weigh again.
  • the process is carried out 5 times in succession and the statistical mean is formed from the results.
  • the difference between the two weighings is the spray rate per 10 seconds. This can be determined by simply dividing the spray rate per second.
  • the spraying mechanism is actuated 10 times.
  • the spray rate is to be understood as the average amount discharged per spray burst (pump surge).
  • Spray rates of 0.1 to 0.5 g / s are preferred.
  • Spray rates of 0.1 to 0.4 g / s are particularly preferred.
  • emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, Aerosols and foam aerosols suitable.
  • Preparations remaining on the hair have proven to be effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. Under the hair remaining according to the invention are understood such preparations that are not rinsed out of the hair within the scope of treatment after a period of a few seconds to one hour with the aid of water or an aqueous solution. Rather, the preparations remain on the hair until the next hair wash, ie usually more than 12 hours.
  • these preparations are formulated as a hair conditioner or hair conditioner.
  • the preparations of the invention according to this embodiment can be rinsed with water or an at least predominantly aqueous agent after this exposure time; however, they may be left on the hair as stated above. It may be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before the application of a cleansing agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as a structural protection for the following applications.
  • the agents according to the invention may also be, for example, cleansing agents such as shampoos, nourishing agents such as rinses, firming agents such as hair setting agents, mousses, styling gels and hair drier, permanent shaping agents such as perming and fixing agents and especially within the framework of a perming method or dyeing process used pre-treatment or rinsing act.
  • cleansing agents such as shampoos
  • nourishing agents such as rinses
  • firming agents such as hair setting agents, mousses, styling gels and hair drier
  • permanent shaping agents such as perming and fixing agents and especially within the framework of a perming method or dyeing process used pre-treatment or rinsing act.
  • compositions according to the invention consist of at least one transparent to clear phase and of at least one non-transparent, non-clear phase.
  • Transparency in the sense of the invention is understood as meaning the permeability of the composition according to the invention to the visible light.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of skin or hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or the hair, wherein the preparation is rinsed again after a contact time of 0 to 45 minutes.
  • the preparation may also be applied to the skin and / or the hair and left there until the next skin or hair wash.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a method for the treatment of skin or hair, in which a preparation of the invention is applied to the skin and / or hair and left there until the next wash.
  • Preferred methods of the last-mentioned type are characterized in that the next wash takes place more than 24 hours after application of the preparation according to the invention to the skin and / or the hair.
  • esterquat and fatty alcohol ICI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol
  • COGNIS distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol
  • esterquat and fatty alcohol ICI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol
  • COGNIS distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol
  • the products according to the invention were compared with the products containing the active ingredient complex a) at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound and b) at least one further cosmetic ingredient selected from at least one compound of the group of polymers, natural products and natural analogues Fatty substances or the surface-active substances and / or mixtures thereof. not included, consistently rated much better.
  • the products according to the invention are consistently better evaluated in comparison tests with products which contain only component a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention. Compared to products containing only component b) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, significant performance advantages are observed.
  • Eumulgin ® B1 (Cognis) polyoxyethylene-12-Ceteareth-12 2.76
  • CETIOL ® S (Cognis) hydrocarbon Dioctylcyclohexane 9.0

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une combinaison de principes actifs cosmétiques contenant a) au moins un composé polysiloxane ayant une viscosité dans la plage de 0,1 cSt à 5000 cSt et b) au moins une huile ester constituée d'un acide gras en C6 à C30 et d'un alcool en C2 à C30.
PCT/EP2006/011898 2006-01-20 2006-12-11 Agents cosmétiques contenant un polysiloxane et une huile ester ainsi que d'autres principes actifs WO2007087860A1 (fr)

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EP3049157B1 (fr) 2013-09-27 2018-08-01 The Procter and Gamble Company Compositions capillaires comprenant des polymeres silicones basse viscosite

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DE102007036499A1 (de) * 2007-08-01 2009-02-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Naturkosmetisches Haarbehandlungsmittel
DE102010048056A1 (de) 2010-10-12 2012-04-12 Beiersdorf Ag Haarnachbehandlungsmittel, das besonders langanhaltenden Glanz vermittelt
WO2019031176A1 (fr) 2017-08-10 2019-02-14 Kao Corporation Produit cosmétique capillaire

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3049157B1 (fr) 2013-09-27 2018-08-01 The Procter and Gamble Company Compositions capillaires comprenant des polymeres silicones basse viscosite

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