EP1993507A1 - Cosmetic preparations with an additive from the baobab tree - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, especially skincare cosmetic and dermatological emulsions containing an additive from the baobab tree (monkey bread tree).

Description

Cosmetic preparations containing an additive from the baobab plant

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions with an addition of the baobab plant (baobab tree).

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example, for heat regulation and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, which prevents the drying of the skin (and thus ultimately the entire organism), probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the ingress and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At about one-tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), represents the significant part for the barrier function. Elias Skin Model (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is now recognized in the art, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (US Pat. Brick mortar model). In this model, the homocytes (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system is essentially a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multi-layered structure, it is also difficult to pass through lipophilic substances.

In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore, cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, however, the physical behavior of these substances is important. Therefore, the development of highly biocompatible emulsifiers or surfactants is desirable. Products formulated in this way support the liquid-crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous if their molecular constituents consist of substances naturally occurring in the epidermis.

Under cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place that the natural Function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function disturbed, it may lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or the infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily caused by washing the fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient. In addition, skin care products to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.

[0010] Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions. This is generally understood to mean a heterogeneous system of two liquids, which are immiscible with one another or have only limited miscibility, which are usually referred to as phases. One is in the form of droplets (dispere or inner phase), while the other liquid forms a continuous (coherent or inner phase). Rarer forms of administration are multiple emulsions, ie those which in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous) phase, e.g. W / OΛ / V emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

If the oil phase is finely distributed in the water phase, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water, d. H. it is generally less greasy on the skin, more matting and penetrates the skin faster than a W / O emulsion.

A variety of ways are known to those skilled to formulate stable O / W preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointments spreadable in the range of room to skin temperature, or as lotions and milk , which are more fluid in this temperature range.

The stability of emulsions depends inter alia on their viscosity, in particular on the viscosity of the outer phase. An emulsion becomes unstable as the finely dispersed particles regroup into larger aggregates and the contacting droplets converge. This process is called coalescence. The more viscous the outer phase of the emulsion, the slower the coalescing process. Emulsions of "liquid" (= flowable) consistency found in cosmetics, for example, as a care, cleansing, face or hand lotion use. They usually have a viscosity of about 2000 mPa.s up to about 10,000 mPa.s. Particular attention should be paid to the stability of flowable emulsions, as the significantly greater mobility of the particles promotes faster coalescence.

Even liquid emulsions of the prior art are - as they i. a. Thickeners contain - not stable to higher electrolyte concentrations, which manifests itself in a phase separation. However, it is often desirable to use certain electrolytes, such as water-soluble UV filters, in order to use their other physical, chemical or physiological properties. Although in many cases it can be remedied to some extent by a suitable choice of the emulsifier system, there are just as often other disadvantages.

The disadvantages mentioned may be, for example, that emulsifiers, such as any chemical substance in the individual case allergic or hypersensitivity of the user can cause based reactions, although the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers i. a. is completely harmless.

In order to ensure the metastability of emulsions, surface-active substances, ie emulsifiers, are usually required. In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is completely harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, such as any chemical substance, may in individual cases cause allergic or hypersensitivity reactions of the user. It is known, for example, that in certain particularly sensitive individuals, certain photodermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers and the simultaneous action of sunlight.

It is possible to prepare emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, in an oil phase dispersed water droplets, or dispersed in a water phase oil droplets have. Such systems are sometimes called oleodispersions or hydrodispersions, whichever is the disperse and which represents the continuous phase.

However, it is neither necessary nor possible to dispense with emulsifiers for cosmetic galenics, especially since a certain selection of particularly mild emulsifiers exists. However, there is a lack of the state of the art in a satisfactorily large variety of such emulsifiers, which would then significantly widen the range of applications according to mild and skin-friendly cosmetic preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet portion of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays having a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC region) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB region, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns. As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight, the narrower range is indicated around 308 nm.

For protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known, which are derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole, acrylic acid, cinnamic acid, the aminobenzoic acid and the triazine, or are also silicone derivatives.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to have filter substances available, as well as its rays can cause damage. It has long been erroneously assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect and that consequently the UV-B rays are responsible for most photodamage on human skin. However, numerous studies have since proven that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic and chronic skin changes. Also, the damaging effect of UV-B radiation can be enhanced by UV-A radiation.

So it is u.a. It has been proven that even under normal everyday conditions even UV-A radiation is sufficient to rapidly damage the collagen and elastin fibers, which are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin includes, for example, wrinkles and wrinkles, and an irregular, ridged relief. Furthermore, the areas affected by photoaging may have irregular pigmentation. The formation of brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanomas is possible. In addition, a prematurely aged skin due to the everyday UV exposure is characterized by a lower activity of the Langerhans cells and a slight, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of the reaching to the earth ultraviolet radiation consists of UV-A radiation. While UV-B radiation varies widely depending on many factors (for example, time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day after day regardless of year, daytime or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis, while about 70% of the UV-B rays are retained by the Homschicht.

Preventive protection against UV-A rays, for example by applying sunscreen filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the skin, is therefore of fundamental importance.

In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which are quite strict standards for the Create documentation. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulations, the extinction values can at most provide a guide, because interactions with ingredients of the skin or the surface of the skin itself can lead to uncertainties. Furthermore, it is usually difficult to estimate in advance how uniformly and in which layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the skin's homschicht.

To test the UV-A protection performance, the IPD method is usually used (IPD [identical to] immediate pigment darkening). Here, similar to the determination of the sun protection factor, a value is determined which indicates by how much longer the skin protected with the sunscreen can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs as with the unprotected skin.

Another, Europe-wide established testing method is the Australian standard AS / NZS 2604: 1997. The absorption of the preparation in the UV-A range is measured. To meet the standard, the preparation must absorb at least 90% of the UVA radiation in the range 320-360 nm.

The use concentration of known sunscreen filter substances, which also show a high filtering effect in the UV-A range in particular, is often limited in combination with other substances present as solids. It therefore prepares certain formulation-technical difficulties to achieve higher sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance.

However, the UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism. Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are free-radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined radical photoproducts, which are formed in the skin itself, can also show uncontrolled sequelae due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur on UV irradiation, as well as short-lived epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is distinguished from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

In order to prevent these reactions, it is known to incorporate antioxidants and / or radical scavengers in cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

The compounds which are used as light stabilizers for cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations are usually distinguished by good light protection. However, they have the disadvantage that it is sometimes difficult to incorporate them satisfactorily into such formulations.

The sun protection factor (LSF, often also, adapted to English usage, SPF) indicates how much longer the skin protected by the sunscreen can be irradiated until the same erythema reaction occurs as with the unprotected skin (ie ten times that of unprotected skin at SPF = 10).

In any case, the consumer expects on the one hand - not least because of the public discussion about the so-called "ozone hole" on the one hand, reliable information from the manufacturer on the SPF, on the other hand is a tendency of the consumer to higher and higher sun protection factors.

Since sunscreens are usually expensive, and since some sunscreens are also difficult to incorporate in higher concentrations in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, it was an object of the invention to arrive at preparations in a simple and inexpensive way, which even at unusually low Nevertheless, concentrations of sunscreens can reach acceptable or even high SPF values.

Another object of the invention was to design cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations, which has a high stability of the sunscreen.

Furthermore, it was an object of the present invention to design cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations, which are characterized by an increased care effect.

Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations in which natural products are incorporated.

The use of different components of the baobab plant as food and for various other purposes is well known. For example, the leaves are eaten fresh as vegetables, or dried and grated for the preparation of foods such as sauces, porridges, etc. used. The fruit pulp of the baobab plant is either eaten fresh because of its vitamin content, added to cooked foods or used for its pleasant taste as a basis in the beverage production. The seeds of the baobab plant are used as a binder for soups, roasted as snacks or as a substitute base for making coffee, pressed as an edible oil base, etc. The grated roots of the Baoab plant find use as a basis for dye production. Medically, the bark of the baobab plant is used with its astringent, diaphoretic and even antipyretic properties, the pulp and seeds are used for example because of their anti-inflammatory properties in fever or on inflamed wounds. The leaves are used to prevent sweating, kidney and bladder problems and as an anti-asthmatic. Cosmetic applications of various extracts of individual constituents of the baobab are also known.

EP 0 973 494 describes, for example, the use of an extract from leaves of a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab = baobab), for cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical applications and a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical product or a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for the skin and / or the Epithelanhanggebilde with such an extract.

Korean Patent Application Publication No. 1020040015586 A describes a cosmetic composition containing a baobab extract stabilized with nanoliposomes.

The aim of the present invention was to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions with an additive from the baobab plant, which provide a (s) particularly effective (s) skin protection and skin care.

Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions, which has a high stability of incorporated in the preparations UV filter.

These objects are achieved by a cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation containing an additive from at least one component of a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab plant), A. grandidieri, A. za, or A. gibbosa, but this addition is not obtained by hot extraction.

According to the present invention, an additive of at least one constituent of the baobab plant is incorporated in a cosmetic or dermatological "base composition" which may contain usual constituents of such a respective composition, without thereby limiting the invention. in which the components occurring naturally in the baobab plant are contained without significant degeneration.This means that such additives are produced from the plant part (s) without exposing the substances contained in the plant parts to a high, eg thermal stress If necessary, the plant constituents may be de-pectinized, ie subjected to a treatment which reduces the pectin content of the constituent / degrades the pectin.

So far, extracts of plants (parts) have been incorporated, especially in cosmetics, essentially, which were previously prepared under heavy heating from the plant parts. For example, the above-mentioned EP-A 0 973 494 describes the preparation of an extract of baobab leaves, wherein the broth is heated for a long time up to 95 ° C before the solid constituents are removed.

According to the present invention, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions, the constituents of the plant are incorporated either directly in fresh or dried, finely divided form, or an aqueous or organic solvent extract is prepared from the constituents, which is used in the Production was heated only to a maximum of moderate temperatures. Moderate temperatures are here is a temperature of maximum 65 ° C, preferably of at most 50 ⁰ C ₁ more preferably from 40 ⁰ C to understand.

The drying of the ingredient (s) may be by any of the known types of drying, with either air drying or freeze drying being preferred. An increase in temperature during the drying is possible, but in this case too, the temperature should preferably not exceed the values given above. However, a drying under environmental conditions of the producing countries, eg Africa with partly daytime temperatures in the range of over 40 ^° C. (also significantly higher in the sun), likewise falls within the meaning of the present invention. As long as the plant constituents are not yet subjected to an extraction process, the temperature for the substances present in the plant parts is not as disadvantageous as after extraction from the "natural environment" by an extraction process Extraction method) in the preparations described herein, the temperature applied during drying for the invention is not limiting.

By this form of workup of the plant components, so either (drying and) crushing, or under (possibly additional) application of a temperature-limited extraction step, the substances contained in the plant components are treated very gently. It is thereby achieved that the additives incorporated into the preparations according to the invention from constituents of the baobab plant have a largely "original" composition, ie a composition which is also present in the natural constituent (s) used in the component (s) used.

Many of the substances present in the components of the plant are extremely labile to exposure to heat, especially outside the "protective" plant structure, and therefore are often largely destroyed in an extraction process where vigorous heating occurs prepared according to the invention, an extract of at least one part of the baobab, wherein the component (e) in an extractant maximum of a few seconds are exposed (maximum 10) a temperature above 65 ⁰ C of the /. Preferably, a temperature of over 65 ° C In one embodiment of the invention, such a "cold" extract is then incorporated into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation. Suitable extractants for such extraction include, for example, water (also with the addition of various soluble substances such as salts or buffer substances), an organic solvent such as methanol, ethanol, butanol, propanol, isopropanol, acetone, chloroform or the like or an oil, especially one of mentioned below for the formulations, but without being limited to these.

In a further embodiment, the plant constituents are not subjected to an extraction process, but are comminuted either fresh or dried, the resulting particles optionally separated by size and incorporated directly into a cosmetic or dermatological composition. The crushing The plant components may be made by any suitable method, such as, but not limited to, grinding, grinding, cutting, chopping, or the like. After comminution, the powder or mus produced may be separated into size fractions by appropriate means, for example by sieving (especially in powder), slurrying (in Mus), etc., so that the particles incorporated into the compositions may have a certain size distribution if desired. However, this is not mandatory for the invention, but rather depends on the processing parameters of the composition to be prepared.

According to the present invention, components of a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular of the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab), A. grandidieri, A. za, or A. gibbosa directly or extracts thereof, which have been prepared with maximum moderate heating be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Suitable components of the plant are in particular the pulp of fruit, the leaves, the bark, the seeds stored in the pulp, the flowers and the roots. Each of these ingredients can be used individually according to the invention, or even a mixture of two or more of these ingredients.

The various components of the plants contain mixtures of various substances that are particularly suitable for use in cosmetic and dermatological composition. The leaves contain, above all, many proteins, a high calcium content and a high content of vitamins A and E, the fruit pulp is characterized by a high vitamin C and calcium content and by a high percentage of pectin, the seeds contain oils unsaturated fatty acids and have a high protein content. Since these are natural products, a particular concentration of a substance or a ratio of the substances to each other can not be conclusively determined, but reference is made to the following references: Gebauer, J. et al. Horticultural Science (2002), 67 (4), p.155-160; Nour, A. et al., Trop. Sci. (1980), 22 (4), pp. 383-388.

In the present application, "sore or inflamed skin" is understood to mean a skin which has been reddened and irritated due to high mechanical, chemical or thermal stress. Examples include sunburn, wounds, itchy skin and the like.

For the purposes of the invention, mature skin means intrinsically and extrinsically aged skin which is clinically and otherwise characterized by the appearance of wrinkles, increased dryness and increased skin roughness. The cause of mature skin are dermal and epidermal changes, which, on the one hand, start with increasing age and, on the other, are accelerated by external influences.

Age-dry skin within the meaning of the invention means an increase in dry skin conditions with increasing age, which is associated with an increasing need for care. Balancing of degenerative processes in all skin layers in the sense of the invention means a normalization and improvement of those processes in the skin that are disturbed, for example, age- and UV-dependent.

Improvement of the communication between the individual skin layers (dermal epidermal crosstalk) in the sense of the invention means that the exchange of cellular messenger substances between dermis, epidermis and basal membrane is improved in such a way that cell functions are positively influenced.

Treatment and balancing of Glucosaminoglykan- / Proteoglykanstoffwechsels in the context of the invention means that the age- or UV-related changes is counteracted by means of the active compounds described herein.

Treatment and balancing of moisture deficits in upper and deeper skin layers (epidermal and dermal) in the sense of the invention means that it is possible by the topical treatment with the cosmetic and dermatological preparations described here, the hydration of the skin, for optimal cellular and noncellular functions is essential to normalize or improve. By structural improvement of the skin in the sense of the invention we mean an improvement of the essential structuring fibers of the skin, that is mainly collagen and elastin fibers.

Enhancement of the epidermal-dermal Junktionszone in the context of the invention means an improvement of the dermal-epidermal gearing, with age-dependent processes is counteracted.

Increasing the Ankerfibrillen (collagen-7) and the collagen synthesis in the context of the invention means an increase in collagen synthesis in the skin.

It can be stated that the preparations according to the invention

- have a very good moisturizing effect,

- promote skin smoothing,

- are characterized by a high care effect,

- are characterized by a very good biocompatibility,

- are characterized by a good skin feel,

- provide a high balance of moisture deficiencies in upper and lower skin layers (epidermal and dermal),

- contribute to the structural improvement of the skin, especially in old age,

- can be used for better care and prophylaxis against sun-exposed (sunburnt, light-aged and / or age-dry) skin,

- are suitable for balancing degenerative processes in all skin layers,

- contribute to the improvement of the communication between the individual skin layers (dermal epidermal crosstalk),

contribute to the increase of anchor fibrils (collagen-7) and collagen synthesis and

- have a wide range of cosmetic variability and can be formulated over wide consistency and viscosity ranges from 400 mPas to> 20,000 mPas. It is preferred that the preparation according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion or hydrodispersion.

As basic components (in the "basic formula") for the preparations according to the invention can be used:

- water or aqueous solutions

- aqueous ethanolic solutions

- natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, octoxyglycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogues Products.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents can be used.

In the context of the present disclosure, the generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like is sometimes the expression "lipids" used, as is well known to the expert. Also, the terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" are used interchangeably.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been proposed to assume the interfacial tension with respect to water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. In this case, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water, the greater the polarity of the relevant oil phase. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is considered as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force acting on an imaginary line of one meter length located in the interface between two phases. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically by the force / length relationship and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive connotation if it tries to reduce the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. For the purposes of the present invention, lipids which have an interfacial tension with respect to water of less than 20 mN / m are considered to be polar, and nonpolar ones whose interfacial tension with water is more than 30 mN / m. Lipids with an interfacial tension to water between 20 and 30 mN / m are generally referred to as medium polar.

Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and the Fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be selected advantageously from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, baobab oil, Avocado oil and the like more.

Other polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of one Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2 Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the novel W / O emulsions has a content of C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoate comprises or consists entirely of this.

Further, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first described their production. They arise according to the reaction equation

R

R - CH ₂ --CH _Z --OH Δ "R - C LH - C% - OH

Catalyst by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are fluid even at low temperatures and cause virtually no skin irritation. Advantageously, they can be used as greasing, overfatting and also moisturizing ingredients in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by the structure

out. R ₁ and R _{2 are} generally unbranched alkyl radicals. Advantageously according to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are selected from among

Group in which

Ri = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and

R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol, which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH, and 2-hexyldecanol, which is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH is available.

Also, mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are advantageous to use according to the invention. Mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol are available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 14 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,

Any blends of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Non-polar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 1 below lists lipids which are advantageous according to the invention as individual substances or else in a mixture with one another. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar and the like.

Table 1

Particularly advantageous polar lipids in the context of the present invention are all native lipids, such as. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil, baobab fruit kernel oil, and the like, and those listed below.

Particularly advantageous medium-polar lipids in the sense of the present invention are the substances listed below:

Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids in the context of the present invention are the substances listed below:

However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar lipids and the like. Thus, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides may be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.

It may also be advantageous to choose the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention partially or completely from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to in the present disclosure as "silicone oils". Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

[0087] Linear silicones having a plurality of siloxy units, which are advantageously used according to the invention, are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms may be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri-R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4) m assume values of 2 - 200,000. Systematically, the linear silicone oils are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which represent the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Dimethicones of different chain lengths and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils in the context of the present invention.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for. B. under the trade names ABIL 10 to 10,000 are available. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, eg. As polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as various Abil-Wax types.

The aqueous phase of the emulsion-based preparations may advantageously contain alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol.

An advantage of the present invention is that it allows to use high concentrations of polyols, especially glycerol.

Preferably, emulsions according to the present invention may contain one or more hydrocolloids.

[0092] Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms may be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R1-R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), n can thereby Take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of similar constitution as the above-mentioned compounds whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate). Further, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 -18 carbon atoms. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides may be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.

Suitable fat and / or wax components to be used can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax). , Paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those known under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _16-36 fatty acid _triglyceride ) and Syncrowax AW 1C (Ci _8-36 Fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH and montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated waxy waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C _{3O 5} o-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats , such as For example, hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid ester and Glykolester such as C _2O-4 o-alkyl stearate, C _20-4 o-alkylhydroxy stearoylstearat and / or glycol montanate , Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties as the said fat and / or wax components, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture.

Any blends of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether. , Particularly advantageous are mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides, or mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and mixtures of C12 -15-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic Caprinsäuretriglycerid, Dicaprylylether, Dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides, or mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and mixtures of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene are advantageously used in the context of the present invention.

W / O emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be prepared by means of the customary W / O emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of O / W emulsifiers or further coemulsifiers.

W / O emulsions according to the present invention may further comprise one or more emulsifiers selected from the group of the following substances, which usually act as W / O emulsifiers:

Lecithin, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in admixture with paraffin oil (liquid paraffin), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrityl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat in admixture with isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate in admixture with hydroxystearate and Beeswax, mineral oil mixed with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum mixed with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate in admixture with cetyl dimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylate / do-sQ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

W / O emulsions according to the present invention may also contain one or more co-emulsifiers, in particular selected from the group of the following substances, which usually act as O / W emulsifiers: glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth -25, ceteareth-6 in admixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6

Caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in admixture with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-100 stearate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, laureth-23 , Steareth-2, glyceryl stearate admixed with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10 , PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 mixed with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG- 20- glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate , Cetyl phosphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, Trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycerylmethylglucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate admixed with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol Mixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

It may also be advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, in particular when the oil phase of the preparations consists at least partly of silicone oils, to use silicone emulsifiers. The silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of the alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of Compounds characterized by the following chemical structure:

wherein X and Y are independently selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1-24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0-200, q is a number from 1-40, and r is one Represents number from 1-100.

[0107] An example of particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention to use silicone emulsifiers are dimethicone, which, by the company AG Th.Goldschmidt under the tradenames ABIL ^® B 8842, ABIL ^® B 8843, ABIL ^® B 8847, ABIL ^® B 8851 ABIL ^® B 8852, ABIL ^® B 8863, ABIL ^® B 8873 and ABIL ^® B sold the 88,183th

[0108] Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 90th

[0109] Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 97th

[0110] Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly advantageous, the emulsifier lauryl which under the tradename Dow Corning ^® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd. is available.

The total amount of silicone emulsifiers advantageously used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

[0112] Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a skin (protective) cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sunscreen cream or a sunscreen milk or after sun products contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

Just as emulsions according to the invention of liquid and solid consistency are used as cosmetic cleansing lotions or cleansing creams, the Preparations according to the invention also represent sprayable cleaning preparations ("cleaning sprays") which are used, for example, for removing make-up and / or make-up, as a mild exfoliant lotion or as a mild washing lotion, possibly also for impure skin. Such cleaning preparations can advantageously also be used as so-called "rinseoff preparations" which are rinsed off the skin after use.

In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions may also contain liposomes, which may also be in the form of forms known in the art as microsomes, nanoliposomes or nanoparticles. Examples of such nanoparticles are described in EP-A 1 003 488, DE-U 29 923 848 or KR1020040015586 A.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions can usually not be produced without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, bodying agents, film formers, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have coloring action, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, antiinflammatory substances, additional Active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, insect repellents, bactericides, virucides, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, medicaments or other conventional constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or electrolytes ,

Mutatis mutandis corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention can be used, for example, as sunscreen, skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, after-sun cream or lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, Exfoliating cream etc.

By incorporating the baobab ingredients and / or the gently produced extracts thereof, the active substances contained in the plant constituents develop their nourishing and calming effect on the skin. In particular, before, during and after the action of UV rays on the skin, the irritation of the skin due to chemical (radiation) and thermal (heat) stress, which can lead to redness and burns of the skin, alleviated and promoted the regeneration of the skin. Due to the natural contained in the plant components or extracts Substances, such as antioxidants and flavonoids, the load on the skin, for example, during or after a sun bath significantly reduced. Even with irritation or redness of the skin due to mechanical stress occurs a faster decay of the skin reaction (inflammation).

In addition, the incorporation serves e.g. fruit pulp, leaves or bark due to the high pectin content of these plant constituents promoting moisture retention and also moisturizing the skin. As a result, the skin is less heavily loaded even under the action of heat, mechanical or chemical irritation and shows a higher elasticity and smoothness compared to skin treated with conventional creams.

Another important application of the compositions of the present invention is use as a mask. On the one hand it is possible to apply a composition according to the invention of suitable consistency as a spreadable paste, and on the other hand to soak tissues or fiber mixtures (eg cotton wool, flow cloths, pads) which are then placed on the face or other desired parts of the body. For use as a mask, in particular preparations may be used in which comminuted plant constituents are incorporated, fruit pulp, bark, leaves and flowers being particularly suitable.

The present invention also provides for the incorporation of constituents of the baobab plant according to the invention in "finished masks." In particular, masks which are applied to a desired body part immediately after wetting, for example collagen masks, can be a component of the baobab plant according to the invention For example, such a ready-made mask may contain in a network of fibers, preferably collagen fibers, comminuted plant material, preferably fruit pulp, bark components, flowers or leaves of the baobab plant.

An example of collagen masks into which plant components or extracts may be incorporated according to the present invention are those described, for example, in DE-A 10 350 654. Such finished masks, which can serve as a basis for the present invention are, for example. Suwelack Skin & Health Care AG, Germany manufactured and distributed.

For the incorporation of the comminuted plant components into masks of the type described, a separation of the resulting comminuted components according to their size is not necessary, but may have a broad particle size distribution. The plant constituents for all cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention are preferably comminuted to a particle size of less than 1000 μm, preferably to a particle size of less than 500 μm. The finer the particles, the smaller the average particle size, the better the particles can be incorporated, for example, in creams or lotions. Therefore, it is preferred in formulations which are applied thinly to the skin, such as creams or lotions, to keep the particle sizes of the incorporated particles substantially below 300 μm, preferably substantially below 200μm, more preferably below 100μm. Also "dust", ie particles below 50 .mu.m, preferably below 20 .mu.m, can be incorporated into formulations according to the invention.

The amount of comminuted plant components to be incorporated according to the invention into a "base composition" each having desired properties (e.g., cream, lotion, mask, scrub, etc.) may be up to 20% by weight, depending on the base composition, but is preferred in the range between 0.01 and 10% by weight, in a preferred embodiment between 0.01 and 5% by weight. Particularly suitable may be the range from 0.05 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight. %, depending on the consistency and formulation of the base composition.

When incorporating an extract, up to 50% by weight of such extract may be incorporated into a formulation, e.g. a cream or lotion are incorporated. In particular, when the extract has been prepared with the aid of aqueous solvents or oils, the extract can immediately replace part of the aqueous phase or the oil phase of the basic formulation. Usually, however, the extracts are incorporated in the compositions in a range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight.

As already stated, the amount of plant constituents to be incorporated and their particle size, as well as the amount of extracts to be incorporated, are dependent on the particular basic formulation used. For a person skilled in the field of cosmetics, it is easy to determine, by a few experiments, how much and what particle size of the plant constituents can be incorporated into a formulation. For example, a larger amount of even coarser plant components can be incorporated into a spread-form paste which is applied as a mask to body parts, than into a thinly applied sun-lotion. Coarse and more plant particles can also be incorporated when embedding the plant particles in "finished masks" (see above) than in a nourishing day cream, since their consistency is influenced, for example, by the pectins present in the plant particles.

It is also possible to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations in which pharmaceutically active substances are incorporated. Such active substances may be those mentioned below, or any other substance which can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention without any problems.

It is advantageous that the skin care product according to the invention is provided as a galenic formulation. Galenic formulations are understood by the person skilled in the art to include hydrogels, hydrodispersion gels, gels, ointments, emulsions, solutions, pastes, capsules, oils, sticks, suspensions, powders, powders, microemulsions, nanoemulsions, water, shake emulsions, setting agents, lacquers or rinse-off formulations , All these galenic formulations known to the person skilled in the art prove to be an advantageous vehicle for the product according to the invention in order to make the advantageous properties usable for the user. It is also possible to make use of the components according to the invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations).

One embodiment of the invention are cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a UV-filtering cream or lotion, e.g. a sunscreen. These usually contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment. Moreover, it is now common to offer creams whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight but which nevertheless contain a content of UV protection substances. Thus, for example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated in day creams.

According to the present invention, in addition to at least one hitherto customary and known UV filter substance (s), such agents are additionally incorporated with at least one plant constituent or an extract from at least one constituent of a plant of the genus Adansonia.

Investigations with extracts from components of the baobab plant showed that such plant extracts not only produce a light protection effect themselves, but that in particular the incorporation of the extracts in compositions containing conventional UV filters, an improvement in the stability of these filters caused. Especially under light not very stable UV filters, such as e.g. Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzophenone derivatives or triazine derivatives, in particular trianilinotriazine derivatives, can be stabilized by extracts from the constituents of the baobab plant in the cosmetic preparations. In this embodiment of the invention, ie the composition which also contains at least one of the known UV filters mentioned below, it does not matter in which way the extract is prepared. Unlike the above, the extract used in such a composition can also be obtained by "hot extraction", that is to say by an extraction process with a longer heating step, but a "cold extract" according to the above-defined temperature limits or the immediate incorporation of at least one comminuted plant component is also for this application is preferred

The improvement of the stabilization of UV filters in sun creams by the addition of octocrylene is known for example from EP 815 835 B1.

[0135] Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, Resorcinyl triazine derivatives having the structure:

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Other UV filter substances which are the structural motif

are UV filter substances which may be present in formulations of the present invention, for example, the s-triazine derivatives described in European Offenlegungsschrift EP 570 838 A1, their chemical structure by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein

R is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, X represents an oxygen atom or an NH-group, R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which

A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 6 -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl or

Aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl groups,

R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10,

R ₂ is a branched or unbranched dC ₁₈ alkyl, C ₅ -C, optionally substituted, ₂ represents cycloalkyl having one or more d ^ -alkyl groups, if X is the NH group, and a branched or unbranched Ci-C ₁₈ alkyl, C ₅ -C ₂ cycloalkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more C _r C ₄ alkyl groups, or a

Hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which

A is a branched or unbranched dC ^ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -Ci ₂ -cycloalkylalkyl- or

Aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more dC ₄ alkyl groups,

R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.

Another UV filter substance which may be incorporated according to the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, which is also referred to below as bis-Ethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) and under the trade name UVASORB HEB at Sigma 3V is available.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is also possible to incorporate a symmetrically substituted s-triazine, for example the 4,4 ¹ , 4 "- (1, 3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris- benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '- hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

Also in the European Patent Application 775,698 usable bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate be described whose chemical structure by the generic formula is represented, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A, represent a variety of organic radicals.

For the purposes of the present invention, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt containing 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) - 1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) - phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (4- 2-ethyl-carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1- methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) 1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1 ^I _i r, 3', 5 ', 5 ^I, 5 ^l -Heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} - 6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine incorporated.

The total amount of one or more triazine derivatives in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, if present, is preferably selected from the range 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters can also be used for the purposes of the present invention:

Phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid, and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1, 4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5 ^l- tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is marketed, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann & Reimer.

Another useful in the context of the present invention sulfonated UV filter are the salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as their sodium, potassium or their triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or from Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann & Reimer.

Another sulfonated UV filter is the 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid, as their sodium, potassium or their triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS.-No .: 90457-82-2), which, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from the company Chimex is available. Further suitable water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are, for. B. sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

The total amount of one or more sulfonated UV filter substances in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be selected from the range 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight , in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Also suitable are 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium Salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).

The UV-B and / or broadband filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Other oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are z. B .:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

- As well as bound to polymers UV filters.

For example, homomenthylsalicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene, for example from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539) are available at room temperature. , 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates, available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS) and esters of cinnamic acid, for example 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2 Ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate, available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Roche under the trade name Parsol MCX) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, for example, to Haarmann & Reimer under the Trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 available).

A further UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature in the context of the present invention is a (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) -methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer which, for example, in Hoffmann's La Roche is available under the trade name Parsol SLX.

The total amount of one or more UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations may preferably be selected from the range from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. Preferred dibenzoylmethane derivatives which can be used as UVA filters in the context of the present invention are, in particular, 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which was sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ® 1789 and sold by Merck under the tradename Eusolex®9020 and 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 63250-25-9) sold by Merck under the name Eusolex 8020.

Benzotriazoles are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted te (for example substituted by a phenyl radical) or unsubstituted alkyl radicals having 1 to 18 carbon atoms and / or polymer radicals which themselves do not absorb UV rays (such as eg silicone residues, acrylate residues and the like), and

- R ^{3 is selected} from the group H or alkyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

A suitable benzotriazole for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylenebis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), a broadband filter available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Another suitable benzotriazole for the purposes of the present invention is also 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl 1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl) phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

Further suitable benzotriazoles are [2,4'-dihydroxy-3- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -5- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -2'-n-octoxy-5 ' benzoyl] diphenylmethane, 2,2'-methylene-bis- [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol], 2,2'-methylene-bis- [6- (2H-) benzotiazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutylphenol], 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5' -di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole and 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole.

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations may contain from 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, of one or more benzotriazoles. In a particularly preferred embodiment, in addition to the plant constituent (s) or extract (s) from baobab of the abovementioned types, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one UVA filter, preferably selected from the abovementioned dibenzoylmethane derivatives and / or benzophenone derivatives and / or at least one UVB filter, preferably selected from the triazine derivatives mentioned, preferably trianilinotriazine derivatives, particularly preferably dioctylbutamidotriazone or octyltriazone, optionally octocrylene, but no cinnamic acid derivatives and / or camphor derivatives as UV filters.

The constituents described below may be incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and may each (individually or in combination) develop a (further) advantageous effect. However, the abovementioned constituents should not be understood as compulsory constituents of one of the inventive composition (s). On the contrary, any formulation which is suitable as a cosmetic or dermatological formulation and contains a constituent or extract according to the invention from a plant of the genus Adansonia, as mentioned above, should be regarded as falling within the scope of the invention.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), Zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. These pigments are X-ray amorphous or non-X-ray amorphous. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

X-ray amorphous oxide pigments are metal oxides or semimetal oxides which show no or no recognizable crystal structure in X-ray diffraction experiments. Often, such pigments are obtainable by flame reaction, for example, by reacting a metal or semimetal halide with hydrogen and air (or pure oxygen) in a flame.

In cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulations, X-ray amorphous oxide pigments are used as thickening and thixotroping agents, flow aids, for emulsion and dispersion stabilization and as carrier substance (for example for increasing the volume of finely divided powders or powders).

Known X-ray amorphous oxide pigments which are often used in cosmetic or dermatological galenics are the silicon oxides of the Aerosil® type (CAS No. 7631-86-9.) Aerosils®, available from DEGUSSA, are distinguished by their small particle size (eg between Macroscopically, Aerosils® are recognizable as loose, white powders For the purposes of the present invention, X-ray amorphous silicon dioxide pigments are particularly advantageous, and among these, in particular, those of Aerosil®. Type preferred. Examples of advantageous Aerosil® types are Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil ® R 202, Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974, Aerosil® R976.

The cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations may contain from 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of X-ray amorphous oxide pigments.

The non-X-ray amorphous inorganic pigments are preferably in hydrophobic form, that is, they are superficially treated to repel water. This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer according to methods known per se.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic

Surface layer after a reaction according to n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '-> n TiO ₂ (surface) is generated, n and m are to be used at will stoichiometric parameters,

R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14

Hydrophobized pigments represented by 742 are advantageous.

Organic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:

[0171] Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are, for example, under the trade name T 805, advantageous TiO / Fe ₂ 0 ₃ mixed oxides under the trademark T 817 by the company Degussa.

The total amount of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micropigments in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously from the range of 0.1-0 wt.%, Preferably 0.1-10.0, in particular 0.5-6 , 0 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

In addition to the baobab components or extracts, the compositions according to the invention may also contain extracts of other plants, in particular those extracts or oils which are known in cosmetics to be caring, protective or curative. In particular, aloe vera, jojoba oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean extract, ginkgo extract and the like can be mentioned here without being restricted to these.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may additionally contain cosmetic active substances, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are customarily used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, colorants, pigments which have coloring properties, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Also other than nourishing known agents, such. Taurine or ursolic acid can be present in the preparations according to the invention. Due to its poor solubility, ursolic acid is difficult to access for skin care via standard cosmetic preparations. The ursolic acid therefore often occurs in combination with the oleanolic acid, because the oleanolic acid and ursolic acid are structurally related compounds which are not technically separable. The combination of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid is part of common commercial products and is therefore also part of the present invention. Preference is given to mixtures in ranges of from 60 to 95% by weight of ursol and from 5 to 40% by weight of oleanolic acid, based on the total mixture mass. Preferably, a mixing ratio of 70 to 90 wt.%, In particular 80 wt.%, Ursolic acid to 10 to 30 wt.%, In particular 20 wt.%, Oleanolic acid.

[0176] Preservatives approved in food technology which, with their Number listed below, are preferred to use according to the invention.

According to the invention preservatives or preservatives common in cosmetics are also dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol and / or Formaldehydabspalter suitable.

Further, phenylhydroxyalkyl ethers, especially the compound known as phenoxyethanol, are useful as preservatives because of their bactericidal and fungicidal effects on a number of microorganisms.

Other germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for incorporation into the preparations according to the invention. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1, 6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,1-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and in the patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE- 42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 1 1 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE 196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE- 44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or drug combinations. Also, sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.

In addition, it may be advantageous to add further anti-irritative or antiinflammatory agents to preparations according to the present invention, especially batyl alcohol (α-octadecyl glyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenyl glyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecyl glyceryl ether), Bisabolol and / or panthenol, however, is not necessary according to the invention.

It may also be advantageous to additionally add further customary antioxidants to the preparations in the context of the present invention. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

Suitable conventional antioxidants may be selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-camosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine , Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and theirs Salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very geri tolerated dosages (eg pmol to [mu] mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, iminodisuccinate, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), benzoic acid coniferyl benzoate, propyl gallate, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of the additional antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations, if used, is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, especially preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof, are the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Formulation, to choose.

Preparations according to the present invention may also find use as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All common for deodorants or antiperspirants agents can be used advantageously, for example, odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, odor absorbers, for example, in the patent publication DE-P 40 09 347 described phyllosilicates, of these particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, hit, beidellite, nontronite, saponite , Hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention may preferably be from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water phase of the cosmetic preparations in the context of the present invention may also have gel character which, in addition to an effective content of the substances used according to the invention and solvents commonly used for it, preferably water, further organic and / or inorganic thickening agents.

The inorganic thickening agent (s) can be selected, for example, from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic phyllosilicates

Although it is quite favorable to use pure components, it is also possible to incorporate mixtures of various modified and / or unmodified layered silicates into the compositions according to the invention.

For the purposes of this application, phyllosilicates which are also referred to as phyllosilicates include silicates and aluminosilicates in which the silicate or aluminate units are linked to one another via three Si-O or Al-O bonds and one corrugated sheet - or train layer structure. The fourth Si-O or Al-O valence is saturated by cations. There are weaker ones between the individual layers electrostatic interactions, eg hydrogen bonds. The layer structure, however, is largely characterized by strong, covalent bonds.

The stoichiometry of the sheet silicates is (Si ₂ O ₅ ^{2 '} ) for pure silicate structures and (Al _m Si ² - _m O ₅ ( ^{2 + m} ) -) for aluminosilicates. m is a number greater than zero and less than 2.

If there are no pure silicates but aluminosilicates, it must be borne in mind that each Si ⁴⁺ group replaced by Al ³⁺ requires a further singly charged cation for charge neutralization.

The charge balance is preferably balanced by H ⁺ , alkali or alkaline earth metal ions. Aluminum as a counterion is known and advantageous. In contrast to the aluminosilicates, these compounds are called aluminosilicates. Also, "aluminum aluminosilicates" in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network, as well as counterion, are known and may be advantageous for the present invention.

Phyllosilicates are well documented in the literature, e.g. in the "Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry", A.F. Hollemann, E. Wiberg and N. Wiberg, 91.-100. Ed., Walter de Gruyter - Verlag 1985, passim, and "Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry", H. Remy, 12th ed., Akademische Verlagsgesellschaft, Leipzig 1965, passim. The layer structure of montmorillonite can be found in Rompps Chemie-Lexikon, Franckh'sche Verlagshandlung W. Keller & Co., Stuttgart, 8th ed., 1985, p. 2668 f.

Examples of layered silicates are:

Montmorillonite Nao, 33 ((Al ₁ , 67Mgo, 33) (OH) 2 (Si ₄ 0 ₁ o)) is often simplified: Al ₂ O ₃₄ SiO ₂ -H ₂ CnH ₂ O or Al ₂ [(OH) ₂ / Si ₄ O ₁₀ ) .nH ₂ O

Kaolinite Al ₂ (OH) ₄ (Si ₂ O ₅ )

Ilit (K, _{H3O) y} (Mg 3 (OH) ₂ (Si _4-y Al _y O ₁₀₎₎ and (K ₁ H ₃ O) _x (AI ₂ (OH) ₂ (Si _4-V aiyo ₁₀₎₎ with y = 0.7-0.9

Beidellite (Ca, Na) ₀ , ₃ (Al ₂ (OH) ₂ (Al ₀ , ₅ Si ₃ , ₅ O ₁₀ ))

Nontronite Na _{0, 33} (Fe ₂ (OH) ₂ (AI _{0, 33} Si3,67θ ₁₀₎₎

Saponite (Ca, Na) o, ₃ 3 ((Mg, Fe) ₃ (OH) ₂ (AI0 _{0, 33} Si _{3, 10} 67θ))

Hectorite Na _{0, 33} ((Mg, Li) ₃ (OH, F) ₂ (Si ₄ 0 ₁₀₎₎

Montmorillonite is the major mineral of naturally occurring bentonites.

Very advantageous inorganic gelling agents for the purposes of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites) or magnesium aluminum silicates (US Pat. Veegum® grades) and sodium magnesium silicates (Laponite® grades)

Montmorillonites are clay minerals belonging to dioctahedral smectites and are water-swelling, but not plastic masses. The layer packages in the three-layer structure of the montmorillonite can by reversible incorporation of water (in the 2-7fachen amount), inter alia substances such. As alcohols, glycols, pyridine, α-picoline, ammonium compounds, hydroxy-Aluminosilicatlonen, etc. swell.

The chemical formula given above is approximate only; Since M. has a large ion-exchange capacity, Al can be exchanged for Mg, Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Zn, Pb (eg from pollutants in waste water) Cr, also Cu and others. The resulting negative charge of the octahedral layers is compensated by cations, in particular Na ⁺ (sodium montmorillonite) and Ca ²⁺ (the calcium montmorillonite is only slightly swellable) in interlayer positions.

For the purposes of the present invention, advantageous synthetic magnesium silicates or bentonites are marketed, for example, by Süd-Chemie under the trade name Optigel®.

An aluminum silicate which is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention is marketed, for example, by R. T. Vanderbilt Comp., Inc., under the trade name Veegum®. The various Veegum® types, all of which according to the invention

These products swell in water to form viscous gels which react alkaline. By organophilization of montmorillonite or bentonites (exchange of the interlayer cations for quaternary alkylammonium ions) arise products (bentones), which are preferably used for dispersion in organic solvents and oils, fats, ointments, paints, lacquers and detergents.

Bentone® is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents composed of long chain organic ammonium salts and specific montmorillonite varieties. Bentones swell in organic media and make them swell. The gels are stable in dilute acids and alkalis, but on prolonged contact with strong acids and alkalis they partially lose their gelling properties. Due to their organophilic character, the bentones are difficult to wet by water.

The following Bentone® types are used, for example, by the company Kronos Titan sold: Bentone® 27, an organically modified montmorillonite, Bentone® 34 (Dimethyldioctylammoniumbentonit), which is prepared according to US 2,531,427 and due to its lipophilic groups swells better in the lipophilic medium than in water, Bentone® 38, an organically modified montmorillonite, a cream to white powder, Bentone® LT, a purified clay mineral, Bentone® Gel MIO, an organically modified montmorillonite, finely suspended in mineral oil (SUS-71) (10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3.3% wetting agent) , Bentone® Gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite suspended in isopropyl myristate (10% bentonite, 86.7% isopropyl myristate, 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel CAO, an organically modified montmorillonite incorporated in castor oil ( 10% bentonite, 86.7 castor oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel Lantrol, an organically modified montmorillonite which is in paste form for further processing, in particular for Production of cosmetic products is intended; 10% Bentonite, 64.9 Lantrol (wool wax oil), 22.0 isopropyl myristate, 3.0 wetting agent and 0.1 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester, Bentone® Gel Lan I, a 10% Bentone® 27 paste in a USP wool wax blend and isopropyl palmitate, Bentone <(R)> Gel Lan II, a bentonite paste in pure liquid wool wax, Bentone® Gel NV, a 15% Bentone® 27 paste in dibutyl phthalate, Bentone® Gel OMS, a bentonite paste in Shellsol T. Bentone® Gel OMS 25, a bentonite paste in isoparaffinic hydrocarbons (Idopar® H), Bentone® Gel IPP, a bentonite paste in isopropyl palmitate.

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological abbreviation for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and intermolecular interaction forces, which allow side and major valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a net-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows: -NH ₂ -COOH-COO ^' M ⁺ -NR ₂

-NH-R O -SO ₃ ^" M ⁺ (CH ₂ J _n

-OH -NH-C-NH ₂ -POf M ²⁺ SO ₃ ^'

-SH NH -NH ₃ X ^' + II + -NR ₂

- O- NH-C-NH ₂ -NR ₂ HX ^" I

I + (CHa) _n

- N - HK, N ", NH ₂ --NR ₃ x ^' I

^ γ- ' ⁵ 5S ""*; ³ COO ^'

-CH = N 0

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows:

organic, natural compounds, such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,

- Organic, modified natural products such. Carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose,

- organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. As polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes

- inorganic compounds, such as. As polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicic acids.

Microcrystalline cellulose is an advantageous hydrocolloid for the purposes of the present invention. It is available, for example, from FMC Corporation Food and Pharmaceutical Products under the trade name Avicel®. A particularly advantageous product for the purposes of the present invention is the type Avicel® RC-591, which is modified microcrystalline cellulose which is composed of 89% microcrystalline cellulose and 11% sodium carboxymethyl cellulose. Further commercial products of this raw material class are Avicel® RC / CL, Avicel® CE-15, Avicel® 500.

Other hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose.

Particularly suitable for the purposes of the present invention are also generally referred to as methylcelluloses cellulose mixed ethers, in addition to a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel® E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.

Also suitable according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I is a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ -COONa. Particularly preferred are the sodium carboxymethylcellulose, also known as cellulose gum, available under the tradename Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon.

Also preferred for the purposes of the present invention is xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 x 10 ⁶ to 24 x 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain of β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15-10 ⁸ . Xanthan is formed from a chain of β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthan. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. Yields of 250 g / l are achieved. The workup is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.

Advantageous gelling agent for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar to agar based extract of North Atlantic, to the Florideen counting red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

Frequently, the term carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulphate content of about 25%. Carrageenan, which dissolves very easily in warm water; Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. Carrageenan has three main components: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1, 4 positions (Agar, in contrast, contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling [lambda] fraction is composed of 1, 3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1, 4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues, and the like. easily soluble in cold water. The [iota] -carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1, 3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1, 4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also denoted by Greek letters: α, β, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, ω, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

[0215] The use of chitosan in cosmetic preparations is known per se. Chitosan is a partially deacylated chitin. This biopolymer has film-forming properties and a silky feel on the skin. The disadvantage, however, is its strong stickiness on the skin, which occurs in particular - temporarily - during the application.

Chitosan is known to be used for example in hair care. It is better than the underlying chitin, as a thickener or stabilizer and improves the adhesion and water resistance of polymeric films. Representing a variety of references of the prior art: H.P. Fiedler, "Encyclopedia of excipients for pharmacy, cosmetics and related fields", third edition 1989, Editio Cantor, Aulendorf, p. 293, keyword "Chitosan".

Chitosan is characterized by the following structural formula:

n values up to about 10,000, X represents either the acetyl radical or hydrogen. Chitosan is formed by deacetylation and partial depolymerization (hydrolysis) of chitin, which by the structural formula

is marked. Chitin is an essential component of the ectoskeleton [Oχiτωv = Greek: the armor skirt] of the arthropods (eg insects, crabs, spiders) and is also found in supporting tissues of other organisms (eg molluscs, algae, fungi).

In the range of about pH <6 chitosan is positively charged and there also soluble in aqueous systems. It is not compatible with anionic raw materials. Therefore, the use of nonionic emulsifiers is suitable for the preparation of chitosan-containing oil-in-water emulsions. These are known per se, for example from EP-A 776 657.

Chitosans having a degree of deacetylation of> 25%, in particular> 55 to 99% [determined by means of ¹ H-NMR], are preferred according to the invention.

It is advantageous to choose chitosans with molecular weights between 10,000 and 1,000,000, especially those with molecular weights between 100,000 and 1,000,000. [determined by gel permeation chromatography].

Polyacrylates are also advantageously gelators which can be used in the context of the present invention. Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the B.F. Goodrich Company). In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention have the following structure:

In this formula, R ^{1 represents} a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984 from BF Goodrich Company, preferably polyacrylates from the group of carbopols of Types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 and more preferably Cabopol Ultrez.

Also advantageous are copolymers of C10-30-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

[0225] Advantageous are compounds which carry the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". Particularly advantageous are those available under the trade names Pemulen TR 1 and Pemulen TR2 from the B.F. Goodrich Company.

Advantageous compounds are those bearing the INCI name Ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinylpyrrolidoncopolymere.

Advantageously, the invention or the

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurateΛ / inylpyrrolidone copolymers have the empirical formula [C ₇ H ₁₆ N ₂ SO ₄ I _n [C ₆ H ₉ NO] ,, corresponding to a statistical structure as follows

Preferred species within the meaning of the present invention are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the filing numbers 58374-69-9, 13162-05-5 and 88-12-0 and available under the trade name Aristoflex® AVC from Clariant GmbH.

Also advantageous are copolymers / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyl taurates, such as, for example, Simugel® EG or Simugel® EG from the company Seppic S.A.

Hydrocolloids from the group of anionic polymers are advantageously selected for the purposes of the present idea from the group of carbomers as sodium, potassium, TEA and trisamino salts, sodium, potassium hyaluronate, microcrystalline cellulose + cellulose gum, vegeum Types, hectorites, bentonites, laponites, alginates, methacrylates.

Hydrocolloids from the group of nonionic polymers are advantageously selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrolidone, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyether-1, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose derivatives, starch, starch derivatives, guar gum, glyceryl methacrylate.

Hydrocolloids from the group of cationic polymers are advantageously selected for the purposes of the present idea from the group chitosan, cationic starch derivatives, cationic cellulose derivatives, guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sodium polystyrenesulfonate.

Suitable humectants or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers) in the context of the present idea are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 is available.

For the purposes of the present invention, film formers are substances of different composition, which are characterized by the following property: dissolving one Film former in water or other suitable solvents and then applies the solution to the skin, it forms after the evaporation of the solvent, a film that has a protective function essentially.

It is particularly advantageous to choose the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 in the GAF Chemicals Cooperation.

It may be particularly advantageous to additionally stabilize W / O Pickering emulsions by the addition of copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone.

Also suitable are other polymeric film formers, such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, available under the trade designation Flexan 130, and / or polyisobutene, available under the trade designation Rewopal PIB1000.

The total amount of one or more film formers is in the finished cosmetic or dermatological, for example W / O Pickering emulsions preferably less than 10.0 wt .-%, more preferably between 1, 0 and 7.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the preparations, and in O / W Pickering emulsions preferably less than 20.0 wt .-%, more preferably between 2.0 and 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations , chosen.

Other hydrocolloids which can advantageously be used according to the invention are also

1. water-soluble or dispersible anionic polyurethanes which are advantageously obtainable from i) at least one compound which has two or more active hydrogen atoms per

Contains molecules, ii) at least one acid or salt group-containing diol and iii) at least one diisocyanate.

The component i) is, in particular, diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols, polyetherols having a number-average molecular weight of up to 3,000 or mixtures thereof, up to 3 mol% of said compounds being replaced by triols or triamines could be. Preference is given to diols and polyesterdiols. In particular, component (a) comprises at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of component (a), of a polyester diol. Suitable polyesterdiols are all those into consideration, which are commonly used for the production of polyurethanes, in particular reaction products of phthalic acid and diethylene glycol, isophthalic acid and 1, 4-butanediol, isophthalic acid / adipic acid and 1, 6-hexanediol and adipic acid and ethylene glycol or 5-NaSO ₃ -lsophthalic acid, phthalic acid, adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol.

Useful diols are, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, polyetherols, such as polyethylene glycols having molecular weights of up to 3,000, Block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having number average molecular weights of up to 3,000 or block copolymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, which contain the alkylene oxide units randomly distributed or copolymerized in the form of blocks. Preferred are ethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta or hexaethylene glycol. Useful diols are also poly (α-hydroxycarboxylic acid) diols.

Suitable amino alcohols are e.g. 2-aminoethanol, 2- (N-methylamino) ethanol, 3-aminopropanol or 4-aminobutanol.

Suitable diamines are e.g. Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane and 1, 6-diaminohexane and [alpha], [omega] diamines, which can be prepared by amination of polyalkylene oxides with ammonia.

Component (ii) is, in particular, dimethylolpropanoic acid or compounds of the formulas

wherein each RR is a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkylene group and Me is Na or K.

The component Ni) is, in particular, hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, methyldiphenyl isocyanate (MDI) and / or tolylene diisocyanate.

The polyurethanes are obtainable by reacting the compounds of groups i) and ii) under inert gas atmosphere in an inert solvent at temperatures of 70 to 13O ⁰ C with the compounds of group iii). This reaction may optionally be carried out in the presence of chain extenders to produce higher molecular weight polyurethanes. As usual in the preparation of polyurethanes, the components [(i) + (ii)]: iii) are advantageously employed in a molar ratio of 0.8 to 1.1: 1. The acid number of the polyurethanes is determined by the composition and the concentration of the compounds of component (ii) in the mixture of components (i) + (ii).

The polyurethanes have K values according to H. Fikentscher (determined in 0.1% by weight solutions in N-methylpyrrolidone at 25 ^° C. and pH 7) of 15 to 100, preferably 25 to 50.

The K value, which is also referred to as intrinsic viscosity, is easily determinable by means of viscosity measurements of polymer solutions and is therefore technically suitable. Area often parameter used to characterize polymers. For a given type of polymer, it is assumed to be solely dependent on the average molecular weight of the sample under standardized measurement conditions and by the relationship K value = 1000 k according to the Fikentscher equation

tSlgη, -1 ± 1 * f | _{+ 2} 4i, 5lgη _t J -1,5l9η _r

150 + 30Oc, in which: εr = relative viscosity (dynamic viscosity of the solvent / dynamic viscosity of the solvent) and c = mass concentration of polymer in the solution (in g / cm ³ ).

The polyurethanes containing acid groups are water-soluble after neutralization (partially or completely) or dispersible without the aid of emulsifiers. As a rule, the salts of the polyurethanes have better water solubility or dispersibility in water than the non-neutralized polyurethanes. As the base for the neutralization of the polyurethanes alkali metal bases such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, soda, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate and Erdalkalimetalfbasen such as calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide, magnesium hydroxide or magnesium carbonate, and ammonia and amines can be used. In particular, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, diethylaminopropylamine and triisopropanolamine have proven useful for neutralizing the polyurethanes containing acid groups. The neutralization of the polyurethanes containing acid groups can also be carried out by means of mixtures of several bases, e.g. Mixtures of sodium hydroxide solution and triisopropanolamine. The neutralization may be partially, depending on the application, e.g. to 20 to 40% or completely, i. 100%.

[0250] These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-42 25 045, to which reference is hereby fully made.

[0251] Other hydrocolloids that can be used advantageously according to the invention are

2. Water-soluble or dispersible cationic polyurethanes and polyureas from a) at least one diisocyanate, which may have been previously reacted with one or more compounds containing two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule, and b) at least one diol, primary or secondary aminoalcohol, primary or secondary diamine or primary or secondary triamine having one or more tertiary, quaternary or protonated tertiary amino nitrogen atoms.

Preferred diisocyanates are as indicated above under 1. iii). Compounds having two or more active hydrogen atoms are diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols. Polyamide diamines and polyetherols. Suitable compounds of this type are as indicated above under 1.

The polyurethanes are prepared as described above under 1. above. Charged cationic groups can be prepared from the tertiary amino nitrogen atoms present either by protonation, for example with carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, or by quaternization, for example with alkylating agents such as C _r to C ₄ -alkyl halides or sulfates in the polyureas. Examples of such alkylating agents are ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate.

These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-42 41 118, to which reference is hereby fully made.

[0255] Further hydrocolloids that can be used advantageously according to the invention are

3. Linear polyurethanes with carboxylate groups from i) a 2,2-hydroxymethyl-substituted carboxylic acid of the formula

wherein RR 'represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC ₂ Q-alkyl group used in an amount sufficient to have in the polyurethane from 0.35 to 2.25 milliequivalents of carboxyl groups per g of polyurethane, ii) from 10 to 90 wt .-%, based on the weight of the polyurethane, of one or more organic compounds having not more than two active hydrogen atoms and iii) one or more organic diisocyanates.

The carboxyl groups contained in the polyurethane are finally at least partially neutralized with a suitable base. These polymers and their preparation are described in EP-A-619111, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

[0257] Further hydrocolloids that can be used advantageously according to the invention are

4. Carboxyl-containing polycondensation products of anhydrides of tri- or tetracarboxylic acids and diols, diamines or amino alcohols (polyesters, polyamides or polyester amides). These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-42 24 761, to which reference is hereby fully made.

[0258] Further hydrocolloids that can be used advantageously according to the invention are

5. polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, as described in more detail in DE-A-43 14 305, 36 27 970 and 29 17 504. These publications are hereby incorporated by reference.

The polymers which are possible according to the invention preferably have a K value of from 25 to 100, preferably from 25 to 50. The polymers in the composition according to the invention are generally present in an amount in the range from 0.2 to 20% by weight, based on the Total weight of the agent, included. The salt is used in an amount effective to improve the interchangeability of the polymers. In general, the salt is used in an amount of 0.02 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition ,

The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations selected.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to add preparations according to the invention bordering or surface-active agents, for example cationic emulsifiers such as in particular quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention may furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides,

Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

It is also possible to use cationic polymers (for example Jaguar® 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride] or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (for example quaternium-18-hectorite, which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Bentoneo 38 from Rheox, or stearalkonium Hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan®Gel from Huls AG).

Compositions of the present invention may also contain oil thickening agents to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners in the context of the present invention are, for example, further solids, such. As hydrophobic silicas of the type Aerosil®, which are available from Degussa AG. Examples of advantageous Aerosil® grades include Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosi® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® 202, Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R976.

Further, so-called metal soaps (i.e., the salts of higher fatty acids except the alkali salts) are also suitable oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

Likewise, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (eg cocoamidopropylbetaine) and moisturizers (eg betaine) may be added to the preparations according to the invention. Preferred amphoteric surfactants to be used are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, Disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate, N-alkyl amino acids, for example, aminopropylalkyl glutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The amount of surfactants (one or more compounds) in the compositions according to the invention may preferably be from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially from 1 to 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

An astonishing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred agents being, for example, the antioxidants present in the constituents of the baobab, which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.

The compositions of the invention may also contain pharmaceutically active compounds (one or more compounds).

Suitable examples are, for example, those from the group of lipophilic active compounds, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very favorable the vitamin B1, vitamin B5, the vitamin B12 the vitamin D1, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F. ), in particular [gamma] -l_inolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, dioic acid, allantoin, urea, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or blackcurrant oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also possible to choose the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replaceable substances, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The active substance (s) may furthermore be selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular when the preparations according to the invention are used for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin should serve.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active compound (s) may also be selected from the group comprising catechins and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or plant parts which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Particularly advantageous their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins represent a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechin" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl ) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4 ¹ , 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the context of the present invention.

Also advantageous are other herbal extracts containing catechins, especially extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Also, flavone and its derivatives (often collectively called "flavones") are advantageous agents in the context of the present invention. They are identified by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Various flavonoids, including the flavones, are present in the plant constituents used according to the invention and can be extracted therefrom.

Some of the more important flavones, which may also be used (if desired in addition) in the preparations according to the invention, are listed in Table 2 below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group consisting of H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 C atoms, and wherein GIy is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

However, according to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups branched and be unbranched and have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein GIy is selected from the group of mono- and Oligoglycosidreste.

Preferably, such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein GIy ₁ , GIy ₂ and GIy _{3 are} independently monoglycoside or. GIy ₂ or GIy ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably, GIy ₁ , GIy ₂ and GIy _{3 are} independently selected from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Advantageously, Z ₁ to Z _{5 are} independently selected from the group consisting of H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention are particularly advantageous from the group which are represented by the following structure:

wherein GIy ₁ , GIy ₂ and GIy _{3 are} independently monoglycoside or. GIy ₂ or GIy ₃ can also individually or together represent hydrogen atom saturation.

Preferably, GIy ₁ , GIy ₂ and GIy _{3 are} independently selected from the group of hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to choose the flavone glycoside (s) from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

Naringin (auranthin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3,7,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside) are also advantageous according to the invention. Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyfly of 3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutane, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4 ', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3', 4 ' , 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetine (3,3 ', 4 ', 5 ¹ J-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3', 4 ', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomareϊn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone 7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to choose the active substance or substances from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are referred to as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc., or according to the number of carbon atoms, as the most abundant and best studied biochinones U-5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. In some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q 10 predominates.

Particularly advantageous is coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoschinone differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are termed endsprechend, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active ingredients in the context of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified at the carboxyl group with monofunctional or polyfunctional alcohols.

Another beneficial agent is isoflavone 150 [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethyl-ammonio) butyric acid betain]. Also acylsoflavone 15Oe, which are selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula

wherein R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention. Preference is given to propionyl carnitine and in particular acetyl camitine. Both enantiomers (D and L form) are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixtures of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form. Other suitable active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances which can be used in the preparations according to the invention should of course not be limiting. The active compounds can be used individually or in any combination with each other, but none of the active substances mentioned - in addition to the inventive, called in the claims agents - mandatory to incorporate in the compositions of the invention.

The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It may also be advantageous in the context of the present invention to incorporate dyes and / or pigments into the preparations according to the invention.

The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. Examples of advantageous color pigments are titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.

Chemical or other name CIN color

________ ___ looo _β green

Add Green 1 10020 green

2,4-dinitrohydroxynaphthalene-7-sulfonic acid 10316 yellow

Chemical or other name CIN color

chlorophyllins

Aluminum 77000 white

Toned Hydrate 77002 white

Water-containing aluminum silicates 77004 white

Ultramarine 77007 blue

Pigment Red 101 and 102 77015 red

Barium sulphate 77120 white

Bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica 77163 white

Calcium carbonate 77220 white

Calcium sulphate 77231 white

Carbon 77266 schwant

Pigment Black 9 77267 black

Carbo medidnalis vegetabllis 77268: 1 black

Chromoxld 77288 green

Chromium oxide, water-based 77289 green

Pigment Blue 28, Pigment Green 14 77346 green

Pigment Metal 2 77400 brown

Gold 77480 brown

Iron oxides and hydroxides 77489 orange

Iron oxide 77491 red

Iron oxide hydrate 77492 geH?

Iron oxide 77499 black

Mixtures of Sole {II} - and Eisβn (III) -hsxacyanofβrrat 77610 blue

Pigment White 18 77713 white

Mangananimoπiumdiphosphat 77742 violet

Manganese phosphate; Mn ₃ (PO *) _? ^■ 7 H20 77745 red

Silver 77820 white

Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 white

Zinc oxide 77947 white e.T-dimethyl-S-ti'-D-ribifyIHsoaϊloxazin, Ladoflavfn yellow

Caramel brown

Capsanthin, Capsorubin orange

Betanln red

Chemical or other name CIN color

Benzopyryiium salts, anthocyanins red

Aluminum, zinc, magnesium and catium stearate white

BromthymolWau blue

Bromocresol green green

AcId Red 195 red

03] It may also be advantageous as a dye one or more substances from the the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1 - naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4- Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1 - phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxypyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4' , 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone-disulfonic acid, aluminum malt salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Also suitable are oil-soluble natural dyes, such. As paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.

Also suitable for the present invention are gel creams containing

Pearlescent pigments. Preference is given in particular to the types of

pearlescent pigments:

Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.

- "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and

- "mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells)

Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) layer substrate pigments: e.g. Mica / metal oxide

The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. In particular vorteihaft z. For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment.

Also suitable, for example, are the following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide:

Particularly preferred are e.g. the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

Of course, the list of pearlescent pigments mentioned should not be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates except mica can be coated with other metal oxides such. As silica and the like. Advantageous z. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It may also be advantageous to dispense entirely with a substrate such as mica. Particularly preferred are pearlescent pigments which are produced using SiO 2. Such pigments, which may also have additional gonichromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF.

Furthermore, pigments from Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate coated with titanium dioxide can be used. These are available under the name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40-180 [mu] m they have a glittering effect in addition to the color.

Also particularly suitable are also effect pigments, which are available under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yellow, red, green, blue) from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491). The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, whereby different color effects are generally caused by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparations according to the invention are prepared under the conditions known to the person skilled in the art. As a rule, the constituents of the oil phase or of the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then with stirring and, preferably with homogenization, very particularly preferably with medium to high energy input stirring, e.g. with the help of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine with a number of revolutions up to a maximum of 10,000 rev / min, preferably from 2500 to 7700 rev / min, combined.

Example 1: Preparation of skin cream

Ingredients INCI name% / 100g

1 water Aqua 59.6

2 RokonsalBS sodium benzoate / potassium benzoate 1

3 glycerol 5

4 sorbitol 5

5 Keltrol TF Xanthan Gum 0.2

Place items 1-4, homogenize position 5 well, warm to 75 ° C, cool

6 Brij72 Steareth-2 3,5

7 Brij721 Steareth-21 1, 5

8 LanetteO Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol 3

9 baobab fruit PuIp shredded plant component 10

10 CetiolV Decyl Oleate 5

11 prisorins 2039 isostearyl isostearate 3

12 Softisan 100 Hydrogenated Cocos Glycerides 3

Add positions 6-12, homogenize

13 Pöl perfume oil 0.2

Add position 13 at 40 ° C

Claims

claims

1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition containing an additive of at least one component of a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular of the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab plant), A. grandidieri, A. za, or A. gibbosa, this addition not by hot extraction is won.

2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition containing a UV protective filter substance and a plant component in comminuted form, or an extract from a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular of the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab plant), A. grandidieri, A. za, or A. gibbosa.

3. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the additive is at least one fresh or dried plant component in comminuted form, or / and an extract of at least one plant component, wherein the extract completely under temperature conditions below a maximum of 65 ° C was produced.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the / the plant component (s) are incorporated in comminuted form with a particle size below 10O0μm.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract is an aqueous extract, an extract with an oil or with an organic solvent.

Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the incorporated plant component (s) is / are selected from fruit pulp, leaves, bark, flowers, seeds or roots, or combinations thereof, or the Extract of at least one of these ingredients is made.

7. A cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the composition contains 0.01 to 20 wt.% Based on the total weight of the composition of at least one comminuted plant component, or / and 0.01 to 50 wt. % of an extract from it.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the composition is sunscreen, skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, after sun cream or lotion, nutritive cream, day cream or Night cream, peeling cream, exfoliating lotion or milk, ointment, spreadable paste for use as a mask, ready masks based on fibrous tissue or nets, pads or decorative cosmetics.

9. Use of a plant component in comminuted form or an extract from a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab plant), A. grandidieri, A. za, or A. gibbosa, this extract not being obtained by hot extraction , in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical means.

10. Use of a plant component in comminuted form, or an extract from a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab plant), A. grandidieri, A. za, or A. gibbosa for the stabilization of UV filter substances in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

11. A method for producing an extract from at least one component of a plant of the genus Adansonia, in particular the species Adansonia digitata (Baobab plant), A. grandidieri, A. za, or A. gibbosa, characterized in that the plant constituents during the manufacturing process be exposed to temperature above 65 ° C until the extract is obtained.

12. Process according to claim 11, characterized in that the extract is an aqueous extract, an oil-based extract or an organic solvent-based extract.

13. The method according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the extract is prepared from at least one of the ingredients selected from fruit pulp, leaves, bark, flowers, roots or seeds.