CH697671B1 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with a content of soybean germ extracts and taurine. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions containing isoflovonoids, in particular soybean seed extracts and taurine. The isoflavonoids can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of genistein, daidzein, glycitein and their glycosides and glycoside acetates and the preparations can be present in particular in the form of an O / W emulsion or hydrodispersion. Moreover, the present invention also relates to the use of preparations according to the invention for the treatment and care of mature, light-aged and / or age-dry skin, for balancing degenerative processes in all skin layers and for improving the communication between the individual skin layers (dermal-epidermal crosstalk). ,

Description

       

  The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions containing isoflovonoids, in particular soybean germ extracts and taurine. The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example, for heat regulation and as a sense organ) is the barrier function, which prevents the drying of the skin (and thus ultimately the entire organism), probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the ingress and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protective cover against the environment.

   At about one-tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), which is significant for the barrier function part. Elias Skin Model (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is now recognized in the art, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (US Pat. brick and mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.

   This system is essentially a physical barrier to hydrophilic substances but, due to its narrow and multi-layered structure, it is equally difficult to pass by lipophilic substances.

The present invention relates in a particular embodiment, cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with reduced stickiness, process for their preparation and the use of active ingredients for reducing the stickiness sensation of cosmetic preparations.

In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness.

   In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore, cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, however, the physical behavior of these substances is important. Therefore, the development of highly biocompatible emulsifiers or surfactants is desirable. Products formulated in this way support the liquid-crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the barrier properties of the horny layer.

   It is particularly advantageous if their molecular constituents consist of substances naturally occurring in the epidermis.

Under cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) strengthened or restored becomes.

If this function disturbed, it may lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or the infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily caused by washing fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient.

   In addition, skin care products should protect against environmental influences, especially from sun and wind, and retard skin aging.

[0010] Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions. This is generally understood to mean a heterogeneous system of two liquids, which are immiscible with one another or have only limited miscibility, which are usually referred to as phases.

   One is in the form of droplets (dispere or inner phase), while the other liquid forms a continuous (coherent or inner phase). Rarer forms of administration are multiple emulsions, ie those which in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous) phase, e.g. W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

If the oil phase is finely dispersed in the water phase, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, for example, milk).

   The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water, i. It is generally less greasy on the skin, more matte and penetrates the skin faster than a W / O emulsion.

Of course, the person skilled in a variety of ways known to formulate stable O / W preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointments spreadable in the range of room to skin temperature, or as lotions and Milchs that are more fluid in this temperature range.

The stability of emulsions is u.a. of its viscosity, in particular of the viscosity of the outer phase dependent. An emulsion becomes unstable when the finely dispersed particles re-aggregate into larger aggregates and the contacting droplets converge.

   This process is called coalescence. The more viscous the outer phase of the emulsion, the slower the coalescing process.

Emulsions of "liquid" (= flowable) consistency found in cosmetics, for example, as a care, cleansing, face or hand lotion use. They usually have a viscosity of about 2000 mPa s up to about 10 000 mPa s. Particular attention should be given to the stability of flowable emulsions, as the significantly greater mobility of the particles promotes faster coalescence.

Even liquid emulsions of the prior art are - as they i.a. Thickeners contain - not stable to higher electrolyte concentrations, which manifests itself in a phase separation.

   However, it is often desirable to use certain electrolytes, such as water-soluble UV filters, in order to use their other physical, chemical or physiological properties. Although in many cases it can be remedied to some extent by a suitable choice of the emulsifier system, there are just as often other disadvantages.

The disadvantages mentioned may be, for example, that emulsifiers, such as any chemical substance in the individual case allergic or hypersensitivity of the user can cause based reactions, although the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers i.a. Of course, completely harmless.

In order to ensure the metastability of emulsions, surface-active substances, ie emulsifiers, are usually required.

   In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is completely harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, such as any chemical substance, may in individual cases cause allergic or hypersensitivity reactions of the user. It is known, for example, that in certain particularly sensitive individuals, certain photodermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers and the simultaneous action of sunlight.

It is possible to produce emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, in an oil phase dispersed water droplets, or dispersed in a water phase oil droplets have.

   Such systems are sometimes called oleodispersions or hydrodispersions, whichever is the disperse and which represents the continuous phase.

However, it is neither necessary nor possible to dispense with emulsifiers for cosmetic galenics, especially since a certain selection of particularly mild emulsifiers exists. However, there is a lack of the state of the art in a satisfactorily large variety of such emulsifiers, which would then significantly widen the range of applications according to mild and skin-friendly cosmetic preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet portion of solar radiation on the skin is well known.

   While rays with a wavelength less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight, the narrower range is indicated around 308 nm.

For protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known, which are derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-Phenylbenzimidazols.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to have filter substances available,

   because even its rays can cause damage. It has long been erroneously assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect and that consequently the UV-B rays are responsible for most photodamage on human skin. However, numerous studies have since proven that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic and chronic skin changes.

   Also, the damaging effect of UV-B radiation can be enhanced by UV-A radiation.

So it is u.a. It has been proven that even under normal everyday conditions even UV-A radiation is sufficient to rapidly damage the collagen and elastin fibers, which are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin includes, for example, wrinkles and wrinkles and an irregular, ridged relief. Furthermore, the areas affected by photoaging may have irregular pigmentation. The formation of brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanomas is possible.

   A skin aged prematurely by the everyday UV exposure is also characterized by a lower activity of the Langerhans cells and a slight, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of reaching the earth ultraviolet radiation consists of UV-A rays. While UV-B radiation varies widely depending on many factors (for example, time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day after day regardless of year, daytime or geographical factors.

   At the same time, most of the UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis, while about 70% of the UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.

Preventive protection against UV-A rays, for example by applying sunscreen filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the skin, is therefore of fundamental importance.

In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very well known and documented, especially as exist in most industrialized countries positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply very strict standards to the documentation.

   For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulations, the extinction values can at most provide a guide, because interactions with ingredients of the skin or the surface of the skin itself can lead to uncertainties. Furthermore, it is generally difficult to estimate in advance how uniformly and in which layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the horny layer of the skin.

To test the UV-A protection performance, the IPD method is usually used (IPD s immediate pigment darkening).

   Here, similar to the determination of the sun protection factor, a value is determined which indicates how much longer the skin protected with the sunscreen can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs as with the unprotected skin.

Another, Europe-wide established testing method is the Australian Standard AS / NZS 2604: 1997. The absorption of the preparation in the UV-A range is measured. To meet the standard, the preparation must absorb at least 90% of the UV-A radiation in the range 320-360 nm.

The use concentration of known sunscreen filter substances, which also show a high filtering effect in the UV-A range in particular, is often limited in combination with other substances present as solids.

   It therefore prepares certain formulation-technical difficulties to achieve higher sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance.

Since sunscreen filter substances are generally expensive and since some sunscreen filter substances are also difficult to incorporate in higher concentrations in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, it was an object of the invention to arrive at preparations in a simple and inexpensive manner, which at unusually low concentrations of However, conventional UV-A sunscreens still achieve acceptable or even high UV-A protection performance.

However, the UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism.

   Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are free-radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined free radical photoproducts that form in the skin itself may show uncontrolled sequelae due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur on UV irradiation, as well as short-lived epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is distinguished from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity.

   However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

To prevent these reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated.

The compounds which are used as light stabilizers for cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations are usually distinguished by good light protection effect.

   However, they have the disadvantage that it is sometimes difficult to incorporate them satisfactorily such formulations.

The sun protection factor (SPF, often also adapted to the English usage, called SPF) indicates how much longer the skin protected with the sunscreen can be irradiated until the same erythema reaction occurs as in the unprotected skin (ie ten times as long against unprotected skin at LSF = 10).

In any case, the consumer expects on the one hand - not least because of the public discussion about the so-called "ozone hole" on the one hand, reliable information from the manufacturer on the SPF, on the other hand is a tendency of the consumer to higher and high sun protection factors.

Since sunscreen filters are usually expensive,

   and since some sunscreens are also difficult to incorporate in higher concentrations in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, it was a further object of the invention to obtain in a simple and inexpensive manner preparations which, even at unusually low concentrations of sunscreens, nevertheless provide acceptable or even high SPF values. Achieve values.

Furthermore, it was an object of the present invention to design cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations, which are characterized by increased care effect.

Dehydration of the skin leads to an increase in osmolarity in the outer layers of the epidermis. The increase in osmolarity causes hypertonicity with subsequent cell shrinkage, in particular as a result of the increased concentration of NaCl.

   Taurine, as the skin's own amino acid derivative, is actively taken up by the keratinocytes (Janeke et al., J. Invest. Dermatol., 121: 354-361, 2003) and stabilizes the cell volume and thus the dependent cell metabolism processes under hypotonic conditions as an organic osmolyte , In the human body, taurine is the biological amine of cysteic acid, which is formed by the breakdown of the amino acid "cysteine" in the body. BDF obtains taurine (El-NECS 2 034 838; CAS 107-35-7; Chemical name 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, structural formula C2H7NSO3), which is sold under the international name Taurine / 96123, from Ajinomoto
Taurine is used in concentration ranges of 0.1-3%, more preferably ranges between 0.2-0.5%, most preferably 0.3%.

   Due to its solubility in water, it is used in various bases such as O / W creams, W / O creams, PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, etc. Taurine shows at different pH values (5 <pH <7) under the usual storage conditions (+6 deg C, -10 deg C, rocking test) a very good stability.

Soybean germ extracts containing, inter alia, daidzin, glycitin, genistin, daidzein, glycitein, genistein, and saponins are commercially available from, for example, LM Cosmetics, Thiais, France under the name Isoflavones 150 (hereinafter also referred to as Isoflavone 150) ).

   This mixture contained in one case 39 ppm daidzin, 1.5 ppm malonyldaidzin, 20 ppm acetyldaidine, 22 ppm glycitin, 1.7 ppm malonylglycitin, 12 ppm acetylglycitin, genistin, 1.4 ppm daidzein, 9.8 ppm glycitein, 9 8 ppm genistin, 0.1 ppm malonylgenistin, 5.7 ppm acetylgenistin, 0.33 ppm genistein. These contents are subject to variations, e.g. during storage and also in the final product. The reason for the variations in the shares is that the glucosides or acetylates / malonylates are prodrugs for the aglycones.

   This process can take place in the presence of water.
The total isoflavonoid content in the isoflavone 150 is in the range 8-15%, more precisely 9-13%, according to the manufacturer, about 12%.
By mature skin in the sense of the invention we mean intrinsically and extrinsically aged skin, clinically and otherwise. characterized by the appearance of wrinkles, increased dryness and increased skin roughness. The cause of mature skin are dermal and epidermal changes, which, on the one hand, start with increasing age and, on the other, are accelerated by external influences.

Age-dry skin within the meaning of the invention means an increase in dry skin conditions with increasing age, which is accompanied by an increasing need for care.

   Balancing degenerative processes in all skin layers in the sense of the invention means a normalization and improvement of those processes in the skin that are disturbed, for example, age- and UV-dependent. Improvement of the communication between the individual skin layers (dermal-epidermal crosstalk) in the sense of the invention means that the exchange of cellular messenger substances between dermis, epidermis and basal membrane is improved in such a way that cell functions are positively influenced.
Treatment and balancing of the Glucosaminoglykan- / Proteoglykanstoffwechsels in the context of the invention means that with the help of the active ingredients described here, the age- or UV-related changes is counteracted.

   Treatment and balancing of moisture deficits in upper and deeper skin layers (epidermal and dermal) in the sense of the invention means that the topical treatment with the cosmetic and dermatological preparations described here succeeds in hydrating the skin for optimal cellular and non-cellular Functions is essential to normalize or improve.

   By structural improvement of the skin in the sense of the invention we mean an improvement of the essential structuring fibers of the skin, that is mainly collagen and elastin fibers.
Enhancement of the epidermal-dermal functional zone in the sense of the invention means a drug-mediated increase in the dermal-epidermal gearing, whereby age-dependent processes are counteracted.
Increasing anchor fibrils (collagen-7) and collagen synthesis in the sense of the invention means an active agent-mediated increase in collagen synthesis in the skin.

It was, however, surprising and unforeseeable for the skilled person that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing isoflavonoids and taurine would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
Particularly suitable are genistin, genistein, diadzin, daidzein, glycetine,

   Glycetien or mixtures of two or more of these substances, especially in conjunction with saponins.
Furthermore, it was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention
 work better than moisturizing preparations,
 better promote skin smoothing,
 characterized by a better care effect,
 have higher stability against the crystallization of the raw materials used,
 would be characterized by better biocompatibility,
 would be characterized by a better skin feel and by higher cosmetic elegance,
 improved treatment and balance of glycosaminoglycan / proteoglycan metabolism,
 better balance of moisture deficiencies in upper and lower skin layers (epidermal and dermal),
 for the structural improvement of the skin,

   especially in old age,
 to enhance the epidermal-dermal junction zone,
 for better care and prophylaxis of light-aged and / or age-dried skin,
 to balance degenerative processes in all skin layers
 to improve the communication between the individual skin layers (dermal-epidermal crosstalk),
 better to increase anchor fibrils (collagen-7) and collagen synthesis and
 would be characterized by a wide cosmetic variability and would formulate over broad consistency and viscosity ranges of 400 mPas to> 20,000 mPas than the preparations of the prior art

It is preferred in preparations according to the invention if the isoflavonoids are selected from the group consisting of genistein, daidzein,

   Glycitein and its glycosides and glycoside acetate.
It is particularly surprising that the extract used by us despite its lower isoflavonoid content has a better effect than soy extracts with a significantly higher isoflavone content.
It is further preferred if, as isoflavonoids, plant extracts containing isoflavonoids, more preferably soybean germs and clover, are chosen. Particularly effective is a plant extract, which is available as a commercial product under the name lsoflavon-150 available from Fa. Lucas Meyer. It is particularly surprising that, despite its lower isoflavonoid content, this extract has a better action than soya extracts with a significantly higher isoflavone content.

   It is further preferred if soybean germ extracts are present in concentrations of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-2% by weight.
It is particularly surprising that the extract used by us despite its lower isoflavonoid content has a better effect than soy extracts with a significantly higher isoflavone content.
Particularly pronounced effects we see at a content of 1-2 wt .-% of extract, ie 0.1-0.2 wt .-% of isoflavonoids.
It is further preferred if taurine is present in concentrations of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-0.5% by weight.
It is particularly preferred if the ratio of taurine to the total amount of isoflavonoids is from 1: 100 to 1000: 1, more preferably 1: 1 to 1: 2.

   It is further preferred if the preparation according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion or hydrodispersion.
The invention also encompasses the use of such preparations for the treatment and care of mature, light-aged and / or age-dried skin, for balancing degenerative processes in all skin layers and for improving the communication between the individual skin layers (dermal-epidermal crosstalk) and a non-therapeutic Method for treating and balancing glucosaminoglycan / proteoglycan metabolism and moisture deficits in upper and deeper skin layers (epidermal and dermal), for structurally improving the skin, especially in old age, for strengthening the epidermal-dermal junction zone and for enhancing anchoring fibrils (collagen-7 ) and collagen synthesis,

   wherein a preparation according to any one of the preceding claims is applied topically.
Furthermore, the invention also encompasses a product comprising a preparation described above contained in a labeled packaging, the labeling of which indicates a use or a method according to any one of the preceding claims.

The preparations according to the invention have very good cosmetic properties, in particular as regards the stickiness, and have a very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.

The basic constituents of the preparations according to the invention can be used:
 Water or aqueous solutions
 aqueous ethanolic solutions
 natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;

  
 Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
 Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, octoxyglycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products ,

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.

In the context of the present disclosure, the generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like is sometimes the term "lipids" used, as is well known to those skilled in the art.

   Also, the terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" are used interchangeably.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been proposed to assume the interfacial tension with respect to water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. In this case, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water, the greater the polarity of the relevant oil phase. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is considered as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force acting on an imaginary line of one meter length located in the interface between two phases.

   The physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically by the force / length relationship and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive connotation if it tries to reduce the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. For the purposes of the present invention, lipids are considered to be polar whose surface tension to water is less than 30 mN / m.

Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

   For example, the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Other polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated,

   branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2 Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols.

   It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention has a content of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Further, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first described their production. They arise according to the reaction equation
  <EMI ID = 1.0>
by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are fluid even at low temperatures and cause virtually no skin irritation.

   Advantageously, they can be used as greasing, overfatting and also moisturizing ingredients in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by the structure
  <EMI ID = 2.0>
out.

   R 1 and R 2 are generally unbranched alkyl radicals.

Advantageously according to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are selected from the group in which
R1 = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R2 = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are the 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure
  <EMI ID = 3.0>
and is, for example, under the trade name Isofol <(RTM)> 12 available from Condea Chemie GmbH - and 2-hexyldecanol - has the chemical structure
  <EMI ID = 4.0>
and is, for example, under the trade name Isofol <(RTM)> 16 available from Condea Chemie GmbH.

It is also possible to use mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention in an advantageous manner.

   Mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol are, for example, under the trade name Isofol <(RTM)> 14 available from Condea Chemie GmbH.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 25.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of preparations.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

   It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Non-polar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 1 below lists lipids which are advantageous according to the invention as individual substances or as a mixture with one another. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar and the like.

Table 1

[0062]
 <Tb> Business Name <Sep> INCI name <Sep> (mN / m)


   <Tb> Isofol <(RTM)> 14T <sep> Butyl decanol + hexyl decanol + hexyl octanol + butyl octanol <Sep> 27.6


   <Tb> Isofol <(RTM)> 16 <sep> Hexyl decanol <Sep> 24.3


   <Tb> eutanol <(RTM)> G <Sep> Octyldodecanol <Sep> 24.8


   <Tb> Cetiol <(RTM)> OE <sep> dicaprylyl ether <Sep> 22.1


   <Tb> Miglyol <(RTM)> 812 <sep> Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides <Sep> 21.3


   <Tb> Cegesoft <(RTM)> C24 <sep> Octyl Palmitate <Sep> 23.1


   <Tb> isopropyl <sep> isopropyl stearate <Sep> 21.9


   <Tb> Estol® <(RTM)> 1540EHC <sep> octyl octanoate <Sep> 30.0


   <Tb> Finsolv <(RTM)> TN <sep> C12-15 alkyl benzoates <Sep> 21.8


   <Tb> Cetiol <(RTM)> SN <sep> Cetearyl Isonoanoate <Sep> 28.6


   <Tb> Dermofeel <(RTM)> BGC <sep> Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate <Sep> 21.5


   <Tb> Trivent <(RTM)> OCG <Sep> Tricaprylin <Sep> 20.2


   <Tb> MOD <sep> octyldodeceyl myristate <Sep> 22.1


   <Tb> Cosmacol® <(RTM)> ETI <sep> Di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate <Sep> 29.4


   <Tb> Miglyol <(RTM)> 829 <sep> Caprylic / Capric Diglyceryl
Succinate <Sep> 29.5


   <Tb> Prisorine <(RTM)> 2036 <sep> Octyl isostearates <Sep> 29.7


   <Tb> Tegosoft <(RTM)> SH <sep> stearyl heptanoate <Sep> 28.7


   <Tb> Abil <(RTM)> Wax 9840 <sep> Cetyl Dimethicone <Sep> 25.1


   <Tb> Cetiol <(RTM)> LC <Sep> Coco-Caprylate / caprate <Sep> 24.8


   <Tb> IPP <sep> isopropyl palmitate <Sep> 22.5


   <Tb> Luvitol <(RTM)> EHO <sep> Cetearyl Octanoate <Sep> 28.6


   <Tb> Cetiol <(RTM)> 868 <sep> Octyl Stearate <Sep> 28.4

It may also be advantageous to choose the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention partially or completely from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to in the present disclosure as "silicone oils".

   Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:
  <EMI ID = 5.0>

[0064] Linear silicones having a plurality of siloxy units which are advantageously used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

  
  <EMI ID = 6.0>
wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R1-R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2 to 200,000.

Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows
  <EMI ID = 7.0>
wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R1-R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values of 3/2 to 20.

   Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat and those of cyclomethicone and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils similar constitution as the above-identified compounds whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example, polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.

   These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, (cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g.

   Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like, if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Fatty and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.

   Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax). , Paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C16-36 fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C18-36 fatty acid ) available from CRODA GmbH and montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg

   Dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C30-50-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, e.g. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C20-40 alkyl stearate, C20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate.

   Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties as the said fat and / or wax components, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture.

Any blends of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether,

   if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides, or mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and Mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat, provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Of the hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or

   Polydecen advantageous to use in the context of the present invention, provided that the conditions required in the main claim conditions are met.

W / O emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be prepared with the aid of the customary W / O emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of O / W emulsifiers or further coemulsifiers.

If desired, W / O emulsions according to the present invention further comprise one or more emulsifiers, if desired advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:

  

Lecithin, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in admixture with paraffin oil (liquid paraffin), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythritol isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate mixed with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate mixed with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil mixed with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in admixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG- 7-hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in admixture with cetyl dimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, lauryl methicone copolyol,

   Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate , Polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

If desired, W / O emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more coemulsifiers, in particular advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:

  

Glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in admixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, lecithin trilaureth-4-phosphate, Laureth-4-phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in admixture with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-100 stearate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate , PEG-22-dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate,

   Steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 admixed with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer , PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth- 12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycerylmethylglucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesqulisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate mixed with ceteareth- 20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate,

   PEG-100 stearate.

It may also be advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, in particular when the oil phase of the preparations consists at least partly of silicone oils, to use silicone emulsifiers. The silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of the alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:

  
  <EMI ID = 8.0>
wherein X and Y are independently selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1-24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0-200, q is a number from 1-40, and r is one Represents number from 1-100.

An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.

   Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL <(RTM)> B 8842, ABIL <(RTM)> B 8843, ABIL <(RTM)> B 8847, ABIL <(RTM)> B 8851, ABIL <(RTM)> B 8852, ABIL <(RTM)> B 8863, ABIL <(RTM)> B 8873 and A-BIL <(RTM)> B 88183 are sold.

A further example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously in the context of the present invention is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL <(RTM)> EM 90 is sold.

A further example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously in the context of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is available from Th.

   Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL <(RTM)> EM 97 is sold.

Furthermore, the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol has been found to be particularly advantageous, which under the trade name Dow Corning <RTM> 5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Corning Ltd. is available.

The total amount of silicone emulsifiers advantageously used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

[0088] Emulsions according to the invention, for the purposes of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sunscreen cream or a sunscreen milk, are advantageous and contain e.g.

   Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances and water and one or more emulsifiers, as are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

Just as emulsions of liquid and solid consistency are used as cosmetic cleansing lotions or cleansing creams, the preparations according to the invention can also be sprayable cleansing preparations ("cleansing sprays") which are used, for example, for removing make-up and / or make-up or as a mild wash lotion. possibly also for impure skin - to be used.

   Such cleaning preparations can advantageously also be used as so-called "rinse-off preparations" which are rinsed off the skin after use.

Of course, it is known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are generally not conceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives.

   These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, self-tanning substances, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products, reference is made to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g.

   Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous, the inventive compositions as Basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

It is also advantageous to make use of the properties according to the invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations).

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen.

   In addition to the active substance used according to the invention, these preferably additionally comprise at least one further UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present inventions to produce such cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but still contain a content of UV-protective substances. For example, in day creams usually UV-A or

   Incorporated UV-B filter substances.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives having the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 9.0>
where R <1>, R <2> and R <3> are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom.

   Especially preferred are 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine), which is marketed under the trade name Tinosorb <(RTM)> S is available from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Other UV filter substances which are the structural motif
  <EMI ID = 10.0>
have advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention, for example, the s-triazine derivatives described in European Patent Application EP 570 838 A1, their chemical structure by the generic formula
  <EMI ID = 11.0>
is reproduced, wherein
R is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R 1 is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical,

   a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  <EMI ID = 12.0>
means in which
A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, or
a hydrogen atom,

   an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  <EMI ID = 13.0>
means in which
A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

Particularly preferred UV filter substance in the context of the present invention is also an unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine whose chemical structure is represented by the formula
  <EMI ID = 14.0>
which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI:

   Dioctylbutamidotriazone) and available under the trade designation UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

Also advantageous in the context of the present invention is a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ¾, 4 ¾ ¾- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid. tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris [anilino (p-carbo-2¾-ethyl-1¾-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI:

   Octyl Triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL <(RTM)> T 150 is sold.

Also in the European Patent Application 775,698 preferred to be used bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate described their chemical structure by the generic formula
  <EMI ID = 15.0>
is reproduced, wherein R1, R2 and A1 represent a variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) 1,3,5-triazine sodium salt containing 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4- methoxy-phenyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} - 6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl- carboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy]

  2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, which is 2,4-bis - [[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy ) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, which is 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -] 2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2¾-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ¾, 1 ¾, 1 ¾, 3 ¾, 5 ¾, 5 ¾, 5 ¾-heptamethylsiloxy-2¾¾-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

The total amount of one or triazine derivatives in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

[0104] Advantageous sulfonated,

   Water-soluble UV filters in the context of the present invention are:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ¾ -5,5-tetrasulfonic acid, which is characterized by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 16.0>

As well as their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ¾ -5,5 ¾-tetrasulfonic acid bis- sodium salt
  <EMI ID = 17.0>
with the INCI name Bisimidazylate (CAS No .:

   180 898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer.

Another useful in the context of the present invention sulfonated UV filter are the salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself
  <EMI ID = 18.0>

  <EMI ID = 19.0>
with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27 503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann & Reimer.

Another advantageous sulfonated UV filter is 3,3,3- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid, like their sodium, potassium or their triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself:

  
  <EMI ID = 20.0>
with the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 90 457-82-2), which is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex.

Further advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are, for. For example: sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g.

   4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

The total amount of one or more sulfonated UV filter substances in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously from the range 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. , selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Further advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the entprechenden 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium Salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

  
  <EMI ID = 21.0>

The UV-B and / or broadband filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are, for example:
 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

  
 Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 ¾-methylbenzophenone, 2,2 ¾-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
 as well as polymers bound to UV filters.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid ( 2-ethylhexyl) ester and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester.

Homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: Homosalate) is characterized by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 22.0>

2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI:

   Octocrylene) is from BASF under the name Uvinul <(RTM)> N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 23.0>

2-Ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates) is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS and has the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 24.0>

4-Methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Octyl Methoxycinnamate) is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Roche under the trade name Parsol MCX and is characterized by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 25.0>

Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI:

   Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 and is characterized by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 26.0>

A further advantageous UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) -methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is known, for example, from Hoffmann's La Roche is available under the trade name Parsol SLX.

The total amount of one or more UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously from the range from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. -% selected,

   in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Advantageous dibenzoylmethane derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are, in particular, the 4- (tert-butyl) -4 ¾-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which was sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol (RTM) 1789 and Merck under the trade name Eusolex <(RTM)> 9020 is characterized by the following structure:

Another advantageous dibenzoylmethane derivative is 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane
  <EMI ID = 27.0>

(CAS No. 63 250-25-9) sold by Merck under the name Eusolex 8020.

   The Eusolex 8020 is characterized by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 28.0>

Benzotriazoles are characterized by the following structural formula:
  <EMI ID = 29.0>
wherein
 R <1> and R <2> are independently linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted (e.g., phenyl substituted) or unsubstituted alkyl groups of 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and / or polymer moieties which themselves do not absorb UV radiation (such as e.g.

   Silicone residues, acrylate residues and the like), and
 R3 is selected from the group H or alkyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, an advantageous benzotriazole is 2,2,3-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol ), a broadband filter which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  <EMI ID = 30.0>
and is sold under the trade name Tinosorb <(RTM)> M is available from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Advantageous benzotriazole for the purposes of the present invention is also the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] -propyl] -phenol (CAS-No .:

   155 633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is represented by the chemical structural formula
  <EMI ID = 31.0>
is marked.

Further advantageous benzotriazoles for the purposes of the present invention are [2, ¾-dihydroxy-3- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -5- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -2 ¾-n- octoxy-5 ¾-benzoyl] diphenylmethane, 2,2 ¾ methylenebis [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol], 2,2 ¾-methylene-bis- [6- (2H-benzotiazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol], 2- (2¾-hydroxy-5¾-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2¾-hydroxy) 3 ¾, 5-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole and 2- (2 ¾-hydroxy-5 ¾-methylphenyl) benzotriazole.

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously contain from 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably 0,

  5 to 10 wt .-% of one or more benzotriazoles.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also advantageously contain, although not necessarily, inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2), zinc (ZnO), iron ( eg Fe 2 O 3), zirconium (ZrO 2), silicon (SiO 2), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3), cerium (eg Ce 2 O 3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. These pigments are X-ray amorphous or non-X-ray amorphous. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO 2.

X-ray amorphous oxide pigments are metal oxides or semimetal oxides which show no or no recognizable crystal structure in X-ray diffraction experiments.

   Often, such pigments are obtainable by flame reaction, for example, by reacting a metal or semimetal halide with hydrogen and air (or pure oxygen) in a flame.

In cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulations, X-ray amorphous oxide pigments are used as thickening and thixotroping agents, flow aids, for emulsion and dispersion stabilization and as carrier substance (for example for increasing the volume of finely divided powders or powders).

Known and used in cosmetic or dermatological galenics X-ray amorphous oxide pigments are the silicas of the type Aerosil <(RTM)> (CAS No. 7631-86-9.

   Aerosils® <RTM> <, available from DEGUSSA, are characterized by small particle size (e.g., between 5 and 40 nm), which particles are considered to be spherical particles of very uniform size. Macroscopically, aerosils are <(RTM)> recognizable as a loose, white powder.

   For the purposes of the present invention, X-ray amorphous silica pigments are particularly advantageous, and among these, especially those of Aerosil <(RTM)> - type preferred.

[0133] Advantageous Aerosil <(RTM)> types are, for example, Aerosil <(RTM)> OX50, Aerosil <(RTM)> 130, Aerosil <(RTM)> 150, Aerosil <(RTM)> 200, Aerosil <(RTM)> 300, Aerosil <(RTM)> 380, Aerosil <(RTM)> MOX 80, Aerosil <(RTM)> MOX 170, Aerosil <(RTM)> COK 84, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 202, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 805, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 812, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 972, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 974, Aerosil <(RTM)> R976.

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations contain from 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of X-ray amorphous oxide pigments.

The non-X-ray amorphous inorganic pigments according to the invention are advantageously in hydrophobic form, that is,

   that they are superficially treated water-repellent. This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer according to methods known per se.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer according to a reaction according to
n TiO2 + m (RO) 3Si-R ¾ -> n TiO2 (surface)
is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R ¾ are the desired organic radicals.

   For example, in analogy to DE-OS 3,314,742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Organic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.

   These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:

[0139]
 <Tb> Business Name <Sep> Coating <Sep> Manufacturers


   <tb> Z-Cote HP1 <sep> 2% Dimethicone <Sep> BASF


   <tb> Z Cote <Sep> / <Sep> BASF


   <tb> ZnO NDM <sep> 5% Dimethicone <Sep> H & R


   <tb> MZ-505 S <sep> 5% Methicone <sep> Tayca Corp.

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:

[0141]
 <Tb> Business Name <Sep> Coating <Sep> Manufacturers


   <Tb> MT-100TV <Sep> aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid <sep> Tayca Corporation


   <Tb> MT-100Z <Sep> aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid <sep> Tayca Corporation


   <tb> Eusolex T-2000 <Sep> Alumina / Simethicone <sep> Merck KgaA


   <tb> Titanium Dioxide T805 (Uvinul TiO2) <Sep> octyltrimethylsilane <Sep> Degussa

Advantageous TiO 2 pigments are available, for example, under the trade name T 805, advantageous TiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 mixed oxides under the trade name T 817 from Degussa.

The total amount of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micropigments, in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously from the range of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.1-10.0, in particular 0.5% by weight. 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may comprise cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, such as are customarily used in such preparations, e.g.

   Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, colorants, pigments which have coloring properties, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Preservatives approved in food technology, which are listed below with their E number, are to be used advantageously according to the invention.

[0146]
 <Tb> E200 <Sep> sorbic acid <Sep> E227 <Sep> calcium bisulfite


   <Tb> E201 <Sep> sodium sorbate <Sep> E228 <Sep> potassium hydrogen)


   <Tb> E202 <Sep> potassium sorbate <Sep> E230 <sep> biphenyl (diphenyl)


   <Tb> E203 <Sep> calcium sorbate <Sep> E231 <Sep> Orthophenylphenol


   <Tb> E210 <Sep> benzoic acid <Sep> E232 <Sep> sodium orthophenylphenolate


   <Tb> E211 <Sep> sodium benzoate <Sep> E233 <Sep> thiabendazole


   <Tb> E212 <Sep> potassium benzoate <Sep> E235 <Sep> Natamycin


   <Tb> E213 <Sep> calcium benzoate <Sep> E236 <Sep> formic acid


   <Tb> E214 <Sep> p-hydroxybenzoate <Sep> E237 <Sep> sodium


   <Tb> E215 <Sep> p-hydroxybenzoate sodium salt <Sep> E238 <Sep> Calcium


   <Tb> E216 <Sep> p-hydroxy benzoic acid, n-propyl <Sep> E239 <Sep> hexamethylenetetramine


   <Tb> E217 <Sep> p-hydroxybenzoic acid-n-propyl-Na salt <Sep> E249 <Sep> potassium nitrite


   <Tb> E218 <Sep> p-hydroxybenzoate <Sep> E250 <Sep> sodium nitrite


   <Tb> E219 <Sep> p-hydroxybenzoate-Na <Sep> E251 <Sep> sodium nitrate


   <Tb> <Sep> salt <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> E 220 <Sep> Sulfur dioxide <sep> E 252 <Sep> Potassium nitrate


   <tb> E 221 <Sep> sodium <sep> E 208 <Sep> propionic


   <tb> E 222 <Sep> Natriumyhdrogensulfit <sep> E 281 <Sep> sodium propionate


   <tb> E 223 <Sep> sodium metabisulfite <sep> E 282 <Sep> calcium propionate


   <tb> E 224 <Sep> called potassium <sep> E 283 <Sep> Potassium


   <tb> E 226 <Sep> calcium <sep> E 290 <Sep> Carbon dioxide

According to the invention, further preservatives or preservatives which are common in cosmetics are dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol suitable. Formaldehyde donors.

Further, phenylhydroxyalkyl ethers, especially the compound known as phenoxyethanol, are useful as preservatives because of their bactericidal and fungicidal effects on a number of microorganisms.

Other germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for incorporation into the preparations according to the invention.

   Beneficial substances include 2,4,4 ¾-trichloro-2 ¾-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) -hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4 ¾-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) as well as those disclosed in the patent publications DE-3 740 186, DE-3 938 140, DE-A. 4 204 321, DE-4 229 707, DE-4 309 372, DE-4 411 664, DE-19 541 967, DE-19 543 695, DE-19 543 696, DE-19 547 160, DE-19 602 108, DE-19 602 110, DE-19 602 111, DE-19 631 003, DE-19 631 004 and DE-19 634 019 and the patents DE-4 229 737, DE-4 237 081, DE-4 324 219, DE-4 429 467, DE-4 423 410 and DE-19 516 705 described active ingredients or drug combinations.

   Also, sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.

In addition, it is advantageous to add further antirritative or antiinflammatory agents to preparations according to the present invention, in particular batyl alcohol (alpha-octadecylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (alpha-9-octadecenylglyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (alpha-hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.

It is likewise advantageous to add conventional antioxidants to the preparations in the context of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g.

   Glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg alpha Carotene, beta-carotene, psi-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, Ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, Lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg

   Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to Micromol / kg), further (metal) chelators (eg, alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), alpha -Hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acids, biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, iminodisuccinate, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg

   Vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, propyl gallate, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO4) Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg

   Stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances mentioned.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Preparations according to the present invention may also find use as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All for deodorants or

   Antiperspirants common active ingredients can be used to advantage, for example, odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, odor absorbers, for example, the layer silicates described in Patent Publication DE-P 4 009 347, of these particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, illite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, Smectite, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water phase of the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention may also have gel character,

   in addition to an effective content of substances used according to the invention and solvents customarily used for this purpose, preferably water, further organic and / or inorganic thickeners.

The inorganic thickening agent (s) can for example be selected advantageously from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic phyllosilicates.

Although it is quite favorable to use pure components, but it can also be advantageous to incorporate mixtures of various modified and / or unmodified layered silicates the inventive compositions.

Under layer silicates, which are also called phyllosilicates, in the context of this application silicates and aluminosilicates are to be understood in which the silicate or

   Aluminate units via three Si-O or Al-O bonds are linked together and form a wavy sheet or layer structure. The fourth Si-O or Al-O valence is saturated by cations. There are weaker electrostatic interactions between the individual layers, e.g. Hydrogen bonds.

   The layer structure, however, is largely characterized by strong, covalent bonds.

The stoichiometry of the leaf silicates is
(Si2O5 <2->) for pure silicate structures and
(AlmSi <2-> mO5 ( <2 + m>) <->) for aluminosilicates.
m is a number greater than zero and less than 2.

If there are no pure silicates, but aluminosilicates, it must be taken into account that each of Al <3+> replaced Si <4 +> group requires another singly charged cation for charge neutralization.

The charge balance is preferably given by H <+>, Alkali or alkaline earth metal ions balanced. Aluminum as a counterion is known and advantageous. In contrast to the aluminosilicates, these compounds are called aluminosilicates.

   Also, "aluminum aluminosilicates" in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network and as counterion, are known and may be advantageous for the present invention.

Phyllosilicates are well documented in the literature, e.g. in the "Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry", A.F. Hollemann, E. Wiberg and N. Wiberg, 91.-100. Ed., Walter de Gruyter-Verlag 1985, passim, as well as "Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry", H. Remy, 12th ed., Akademische Verlagsgesellschaft, Leipzig 1965, passim. The layer structure of montmorillonite can be found in Rompps Chemie-Lexikon, Franckh'sche Verlagshandlung W. Keller & Co., Stuttgart, 8th ed., 1985, p. 2668 f.

Examples of layered silicates are:
 <Tb> montmorillonite <Sep> Na0,33 ((Al1,67Mg0,33) (OH) 2 (Si4O10))


   <tb> often simplified: <sep> AI2O3 * 4SiO2 * H2O * nH2O or AI2 [(OH) 2 / Si4O10] n H2O


   <Tb> kaolinite <Sep> Al 2 (OH) 4 (Si2O5)


   <Tb> Ilit <Sep> (K, H3O) y (Mg 3 (OH) 2 (Si4 yAlyO10))


   <Tb> and <sep> (K, H3O) y (Al2 (OH) 2 (Si4-yAlyO10)) with y = 0.7-0.9


   <Tb> beidellite <Sep> (Ca, Na) 0.3 (Al 2 (OH) 2 (Al0,5Si3,5O10))


   <Tb> nontronite <Sep> Na0,33 (Fe 2 (OH) 2 (Al0.33Si3,67O10))


   <Tb> saponite <Sep> (Ca, Na) 0.33 ((Mg, Fe) 3 (OH) 2 (Al0,33Si3,67O10))


   <Tb> hectorite <ns> Na 0.33 ((Mg, Li) 3 (OH, F) 2 (Si 4 O 10))

Montmorillonite is the major mineral of naturally occurring bentonites.

Very advantageous inorganic gelling agents for the purposes of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites) or magnesium aluminum silicates (US Pat. Veegum <(RTM)> types) as well as sodium magnesium silicates (Laponite <(RTM)> - types).

Montmorillonites are clay minerals associated with the dioctahedral smectites and are water-swelling but non-plasticizing masses. The layer packages in the three-layer structure of the montmorillonites can be replaced by reversible incorporation of water (in the 2-7-fold amount) i.a. Substances such as e.g.

   Alcohols, glycols, pyridine, alpha-picoline, ammonium compounds, hydroxy-aluminosilicate ions, etc. swell.

The above chemical formula is approximated only; since M. has a large ion-exchange capacity, Al can compete against Mg, Fe <2+>, Fe <3+>, Zn, Pb (e.g., from pollutants in waste water) Cr, also Cu and others are exchanged. The resulting negative charge of the octahedron layers is caused by cations, especially Na <+> (Sodium montmorillonite) and Ca <2+> (the calcium montmorillonite is only slightly swellable) balanced in interlayer positions.

For the purposes of the present invention, advantageous synthetic magnesium silicates or

   Bentonites are used, for example, by Süd-Chemie under the trade name Optigel <(RTM)> distributed.

An advantageous aluminum silicate for the purposes of the present invention, for example, by R. T. Vanderbilt Comp., Inc., under the trade name Veegum <(RTM)> distributed. The different Veegum <(RTM)> types, which are all advantageous according to the invention, are distinguished by the following compositions
 <Tb> <sep> (regular grade) <Sep> HV <Sep> K <Sep> HS <Sep> S-728


   <Tb> SiO2 <Sep> 55.5 <Sep> 56.9 <Sep> 64.7 <Sep> 69.0 <Sep> 65.3


   <Tb> MgO <Sep> 13.0 <Sep> 13.0 <Sep> 5.4 <Sep> 2.9 <Sep> 3.3


   <Tb> Al2O3 <Sep> 8.9 <Sep> 10.3 <Sep> 14.8 <Sep> 14.7 <Sep> 17.0


   <Tb> Fe2O3 <Sep> 1.0 <Sep> 0.8 <Sep> 1.5 <Sep> 1.8 <Sep> 0.7


   <Tb> CaO <Sep> 2.0 <Sep> 2.0 <Sep> 1.1 <Sep> 1.3 <Sep> 1.3


   <Tb> Na2O <Sep> 2.1 <Sep> 2.8 <Sep> 2.2 <Sep> 2.2 <Sep> 3.8


   <Tb> K2O <Sep> 1.3 <Sep> 1.3 <Sep> 1.9 <Sep> 0.4 <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> ashing loss <Sep> 11.1 <Sep> 12.6 <Sep> 7.6 <Sep> 5.5 <Sep> 7.5

These products swell in water to form viscous gels which react alkaline. By organophilization of montmorillonite or bentonites (exchange of the interlayer cations for quaternary alkyl ammonium ions) arise products (bentones), which are preferably used for dispersion in organic solvents and oils, fats, ointments, paints, varnishes and detergents.

[0173] Bentone <RTM> <is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents composed of long chain organic ammonium salts and specific montmorillonite varieties. Bentones swell in organic media and make them swell.

   The gels are stable in dilute acids and alkalis, but on prolonged contact with strong acids and alkalis they partially lose their gelling properties. Due to their organophilic character, the bentones are difficult to wet by water.

[0174] The following bentones <(RTM)> types are sold, for example, by the company Kronos Titan:

   Bentone <(RTM)> 27, an organically modified montmorillonite, Bentone <(RTM)> 34 (Dimethyldioctylammoniumbentonit), which is prepared according to US 2,531,427 and because of its lipophilic groups swells better in the lipophilic medium than in water, Bentone <(RTM)> 38, an organically modified montmorillonite, a cream to white powder, bentone <(RTM)> LT, a purified clay mineral, Bentone <(RTM)> Gel MIO, an organically modified montmorillonite, finely suspended in mineral oil (SUS-71) (10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone <RTMMN.> </ RTI> Gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite suspended in isopropyl myristate (10% bentonite, 86.7% isopropyl myristate, 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone <(RTM)> Gel CAO, an organically modified montmorillonite taken up in castor oil (10% bentonite, 86.7% castor oil and 3.3% wetting agent),

   Bentone <(RTM)> Gel Lantrol, an organically modified montmorillonite intended to be used in paste form for further processing, in particular for the manufacture of cosmetic products; 10% bentonite, 64.9% lantrol (wool wax oil), 22.0% isopropyl myristate, 3.0 wetting agents and 0.1 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester, Bentone <(RTM)> Gel Lan I, a 10% Bentone <(RTM)> 27 paste in a mixture of wool wax USP and isopropyl palmitate, Bentone <(RTM)> Gel Lan II, a bentonite paste in pure, liquid wool wax, Bentone <(RTM)> Gel NV, a 15% bentone <(RTM)> 27 paste in dibutyl phthalate, Bentone <(RTM)> Gel OMS, a bentonite paste in Shellsol T.

   Bentone <(RTM)> Gel OMS 25, a bentonite paste in isoparaffinic hydrocarbons (Idopar <(RTM)> H), Bentone <(RTM)> Gel IPP, a bentonite paste in isopropyl palmitate.

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological abbreviation for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and intermolecular interaction forces, which allow side and major valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a net-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems.

   They increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked.

   The hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  <EMI ID = 32.0>

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows:
 organic, natural compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,
 organic, modified natural products, e.g. Carboxymethylcellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propylcellulose and microcrystalline cellulose,
 organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as e.g. Polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes
 inorganic compounds, e.g.

   Polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicic acids.

Microcrystalline cellulose is an advantageous hydrocolloid for the purposes of the present invention. It is for example from the "FMC Corporation Food and Pharmaceutical Products" under the trade name Avicel <(RTM)> available. A particularly advantageous product for the purposes of the present invention is the type Avicel <(RTM)> RC-591, which is a modified microcrystalline cellulose composed of 89% microcrystalline cellulose and 11% sodium carboxymethyl cellulose. Other trading products of this commodity class are Avicel <(RTM)> RC / CL, Avicel <(RTM)> CE-15, Avicel <(RTM)> 500.

Other hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose.

   They are characterized by the following structural formula
  <EMI ID = 33.0>
in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are also generally referred to as methylcelluloses cellulose mixed ethers containing addition of a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particular preference is given to (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel <RTM> <RTIgt; E4M </ RTI> from Dow Chemical Comp.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.

   Particularly preferred are the sodium carboxymethylcellulose, also known as cellulose gum, available under the tradename Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon.

Also preferred for the purposes of the present invention is xanthan (CAS No. 11 138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt , It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 X 10 <6> to 24 X 10 <6> produced. Xanthan is formed from a chain of beta-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide.

   It is supplied by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 10 <6> produced. Xanthan is formed from a chain of beta-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of xanthan. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. Work-up is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with e.g. 2-propanol.

   Xanthan is then dried and ground.

Advantageous gelling agent for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar to agar-based extract of North Atlantic, to the Florideen counting red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

Frequently, the term carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000 to 800,000 and a sulphate content of about 25%. Carrageenan, which is very slightly soluble in warm water; Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan.

   In the case of carrageenan, three main constituents are distinguished: The gel-forming fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulphate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1,3- and 1,4-positions ( In contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro-alpha-L-galactose). The non-gelling lambda fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues, and the like. easily soluble in cold water. The Ú-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-alpha-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other carrageenan types are also denoted by Greek letters: alpha, beta, gamma, micro, ¸, ¹, pi, omega,.

   Also the type of existing cations (K <+>, NH4 <+>, Na <+>, Mg <2+>, approx <2+>) influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

Polyacrylates are also advantageously gelators to be used in the context of the present invention. Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol <(RTM)> is actually a registered trademark of the B.F. Goodrich Company).

   In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 34.0>

In this formula, R¾ represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are sold under the trade names Carbopol <(RTM)> 1382, Carbopol <(RTM)> 981 and Carbopol <(RTM)> 5984 from B.F.

   Goodrich Company are available, preferably polyacrylates from the group of carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 and more preferably Carbopol Ultrez.

Also advantageous are copolymers of C10-30-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Advantageous are compounds which carry the INCI name "Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". Particularly advantageous are those under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 in the B.F.

   Goodrich Company available.

Advantageous compounds are those bearing the INCI name Ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinylpyrrolidoncopolymere.

According to the invention, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (s) has the empirical formula [C7H16N2SO4] n [C6H9NO] m, corresponding to a statistical structure as follows
  <EMI ID = 35.0>

Preferred species for the purposes of the present invention are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the filing numbers 58 374-69-9, 13 162-05-5 and 88-12-0 and available under the trade name Aristoflex <(RTM)> AVC of the company Clariant GmbH.

Also advantageous are copolymers / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyl taurates, such as Simugel <(RTM)> EG or Simugel <(RTM)

  > EC by the company Seppic S.A.

Other hydrocolloids to be used advantageously according to the invention are also
1.: water-soluble or dispersible anionic polyurethanes, which are advantageously available from
i): at least one compound containing two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule,
ii): at least one acid or salt group-containing diol and
iii): at least one diisocyanate.

The component i) is, in particular, diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols, polyetherols having a number-average molecular weight of up to 3,000 or mixtures thereof, with up to 3 mol% of the compounds mentioned being replaced by triols or triamines could be. Preference is given to diols and polyesterdiols.

   In particular, component (a) comprises at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of component (a), of a polyester diol. Suitable polyester diols are all those which are customarily used for the preparation of polyurethanes, in particular reaction products of phthalic acid and diethylene glycol, isophthalic acid and 1,4-butanediol, isophthalic acid / adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol, and also adipic acid and ethylene glycol or 5-NaSO 3 isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol.

Useful diols are e.g.

   Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, polyetherols, such as polyethylene glycols having molecular weights of up to 3,000, block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having number average molecular weights of up to 3,000 or block copolymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, which randomly disperse the alkylene oxide units or copolymerized in the form of blocks contain. Preference is given to ethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexaethylene glycol. Useful diols are also poly (alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid) diols.

Suitable amino alcohols are e.g. 2-aminoethanol, 2- (N-methylamino) ethanol, 3-aminopropanol or 4-aminobutanol.

Suitable diamines are e.g.

   Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane and 1,6-diaminohexane and alpha, omega-diamines, which can be prepared by amination of polyalkylene oxides with ammonia.

The component ii) is in particular dimethylolpropanoic acid or compounds of the formulas
  <EMI ID = 36.0>
wherein each RR is a C2-C18 alkylene group and Me is Na or K.

In particular, component iii) is hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, methyldiphenyl isocyanate (MDI) and / or tolylene diisocyanate.

The polyurethanes are obtainable by reacting the compounds of groups i) and ii) under an inert gas atmosphere in an inert solvent at temperatures of 70 to 130 ° C. C with the compounds of group iii).

   Optionally, this reaction may be carried out in the presence of chain extenders to produce higher molecular weight polyurethanes. As usual in the preparation of polyurethanes, the components [(i) + (ii)]: iii) are advantageously used in a molar ratio of 0.8 to 1.1: 1. The acid number of the polyurethanes is determined by the composition and the concentration of the compounds of component (ii) in the mixture of components (i) + (ii).

The polyurethanes have K values of H. Fikentscher (determined in 0.1 wt .-% solutions in N-methylpyrrolidone at 25 °.

   C and pH 7) from 15 to 100, preferably 25 to 50.

The K value, which is also referred to as intrinsic viscosity, is a parameter which can be easily determined by means of viscosity measurements of polymer solutions and is therefore frequently used in the technical field for the characterization of polymers. For a particular grade of polymer, it is assumed to be solely dependent on the average molecular weight of the sample under standardized measurement conditions and by the relationship K value = 1000 k according to the Fikentscher equation
  <EMI ID = 37.0>
calculated, in which mean:

   eta r = relative viscosity (dynamic viscosity of the solution / dynamic viscosity of the solvent) and c = mass concentration of polymer in the solution (in g / cm <3>).

The polyurethanes containing acid groups are water-soluble after neutralization (partially or completely) or dispersible without the aid of emulsifiers. As a rule, the salts of the polyurethanes have better water solubility or dispersibility in water than the non-neutralized polyurethanes. As the base for the neutralization of the polyurethanes alkali metal bases such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, soda, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate and alkaline earth metal bases such as calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide, magnesium hydroxide or magnesium carbonate and ammonia and amines can be used.

   In particular, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, diethylaminopropylamine and triisopropanolamine have proven useful for neutralizing the polyurethanes containing acid groups. The neutralization of the polyurethanes containing acid groups can also be carried out by means of mixtures of several bases, e.g. Mixtures of sodium hydroxide solution and triisopropanolamine. The neutralization may be partially, depending on the application, e.g. to 20 to 40% or completely, i. 100%.

These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-4 225 045, to which reference is hereby fully made.

[0205] 2.

   Water-soluble or dispersible cationic polyurethanes and polyureas
a) at least one diisocyanate, which may have been previously reacted with one or more compounds containing two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule, and
b) at least one diol, primary or secondary aminoalcohol, primary or secondary diamine or primary or secondary triamine having one or more tertiary, quaternary or protonated tertiary amino nitrogen atoms.

Preferred diisocyanates are as indicated above under 1). Compounds having two or more active hydrogen atoms are diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols. Polyamide diamines and polyetherols. Suitable compounds of this type are as indicated above under 1).

The polyurethanes are prepared as described above under 1).

   Charged cationic moieties can be prepared from the instant tertiary amino nitrogens either by protonation, e.g. with carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, or by quaternization, e.g. with alkylating agents such as C1 to C4 alkyl halides or sulfates in the polyureas. Examples of such alkylating agents are ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate.

These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-4 241 118, to which reference is hereby fully made.

[0209] 3.

   Linear polyurethanes with carboxylate groups
i) a 2,2-hydroxymethyl-substituted carboxylic acid of the formula
  <EMI ID = 38.0>
wherein RR ¾ is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C20 alkyl group used in an amount sufficient to have in the polyurethane from 0.35 to 2.25 milliequivalents of carboxyl groups per gram of polyurethane,
ii) 10 to 90 wt .-%, based on the weight of the polyurethane, of one or more organic compounds having not more than two active hydrogen atoms and
iii) one or more organic diisocyanates.

The carboxyl groups contained in the polyurethane are finally at least partially neutralized with a suitable base. These polymers and their preparation are described in EP-A-619111, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

[0211] 4.

   Carboxyl-containing polycondensation products of anhydrides of tri- or tetracarboxylic acids and diols, diamines or amino alcohols (polyesters, polyamides or polyesteramides). These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-4 224 761, to which reference is hereby fully made.

Polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, as described in more detail in DE-A-4 314 305, 3,627,970 and 2,917,504. These publications are hereby incorporated by reference.

The polymers used according to the invention preferably have a K value of 25 to 100, preferably 25 to 50. The polymers are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount in the range from 0.2 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

   The salt is used in an amount effective to improve the interchangeability of the polymers. In general, the salt is used in an amount of 0.02 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition ,

The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to add borderline or surface-active agents to preparations according to the invention, for example cationic emulsifiers such as in particular quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently bonded to 4 alkyl or aryl groups.

   This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, for example benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example, lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.

   Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

Also advantageous is cationic polymers (e.g., Jaguar <(RTM)> C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides] or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (e.g., quaternium-18-hectorite, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Bentone <(RTM)> 38 available from Rheox, or stearalkonium hectorite, which is e.g. under the trade name Softisan <(RTM)> Gel from Hüls AG is available).

[0218] Compositions of the invention may also advantageously contain oil thickeners to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners in the context of the present invention are, for example, further solids, such.

   B. hydrophobic silicas of the type Aerosil <(RTM)>, which are available from Degussa AG. Advantageous Aerosil <(RTM)> types are, for example, Aerosil <(RTM)> OX50, Aerosil <(RTM)> 130, Aerosil <(RTM)> 150, Aerosil <(RTM)> 200, Aerosil <(RTM)> 300, Aerosil <(RTM)> 380, Aerosil <(RTM)> MOX 80, Aerosil <(RTM)> MOX 170, Aerosil <(RTM)> COK 84, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 202, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 805, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 812, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 972, Aerosil <(RTM)> R 974 and / or Aerosil <(RTM)> R976.

Further, so-called metal soaps (i.e., the salts of higher fatty acids except the alkali salts) are also advantageous oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

Also advantageous is preparations according to the invention amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (e.g.

   Cocoamidopropyl betaine) and moisturizer (e.g., betaine). Advantageous amphoteric surfactants to be used are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate, N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

[0221] The amount of upper or

   Surface-active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Preparation.

An astonishing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, with preferred active ingredients being the aforementioned antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.

According to the invention, the active compounds (one or more compounds) can also be chosen very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active compounds, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g.

   Hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very beneficial vitamin B1, vitamin B5, vitamin B12 the vitamin D1, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and derivatives thereof, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, dioic acid, allantoin, urea, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg

   Evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil, but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replaceable substances, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit <(RTM)> and Neocerit <(RTM)>.

The active ingredient (s) are furthermore advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular when the preparations according to the invention are used for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation To serve the skin.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

Further advantageously, the active substance (s) are selected from the group

   which comprises catechins and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Particularly advantageous are their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins represent a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechin" (catechol, 3,3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl ) -chroman-3,5,7-triol).

   Also, epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the context of the present invention.

Also advantageous are herbal extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec. especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with for example Camellia japonica.

Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Also flavone and its derivatives (often collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention.

   They are identified by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):
  <EMI ID = 39.0>

Some of the more important flavones which can also preferably be used in formulations according to the invention are listed in Table 2 below:

[0234]
 <tb> Table 2 <Sep> OH substitution positions <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <Tb> <Sep> 3 <Sep> 5 <Sep> 7 <Sep> 8 <sep> 2 ¾ <sep> 3 ¾ <sep> 4 ¾ <sep> 5 ¾


   <Tb> Flavon <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> -


   <Tb> flavonol <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> -


   <Tb> Chrysin <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> -


   <Tb> Galangin <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> -


   <Tb> apigenin <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> -


   <Tb> fisetin <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> -


   <Tb> luteolin <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> -


   <Tb> kaempferol <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> -


   <Tb> quercetin <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> -


   <Tb> Morin <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> -


   <Tb> robinetin <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> +


   <Tb> gossypetin <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> -


   <Tb> myricetin <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> - <Sep> - <Sep> + <Sep> + <Sep> +

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

[0236] According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of the substances of the generic structural formula
  <EMI ID = 40.0>
wherein Z1 to Z7 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and unbranched and may have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

However, according to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  <EMI ID = 41.0>
wherein Z1 to Z6 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or

   Hydroxyalkoxygruppen be branched and unbranched and may have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and Oligoglycosidreste.

Preferably, such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  <EMI ID = 42.0>
where Gly1, Gly2 and Gly3 independently represent monoglycoside residues. Gly2 or Gly3 can also individually or together represent hydrogen saturation.

Gly1, Gly2 and Gly3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use.

   It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Advantageously, Z1 to Z5 are independently selected from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  <EMI ID = 43.0>

The flavone glycosides of the invention are particularly advantageous from the group which are represented by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 44.0>
where Gly1, Gly2 and GIy3 independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly2 or Gly3 can also individually or together represent hydrogen saturation.

Gly1, Gly2 and Gly3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.

   However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to choose the flavone glycoside (s) from the group alpha-glucosylrutin, alpha-glucosylmyricetin, alpha-glucosylisoquercitrin, alpha-glucosylisoquercetin and alpha-glucosylquercitrin.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is alpha-glucosylrutin.

Also of interest to the present invention are naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3¾, 5,7-trihydroxy-4¾-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside).

   Rutin (3,3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5,7-pentahydroxyfly of 3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutane, rutabion, taurutine, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ¾, 4 ¾, 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-alpha-L-mannopyranosyl) -beta-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3.3 ¾, 4 ¾ , 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-alpha-L-mannopyranosyl) -beta-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetine (3,3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5 ¾, 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), Flavanomarein (3 ¾, 4 ¾, 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (beta-D-glucopyranoside).

[0246] It is also advantageous

   to choose the one or more active ingredients from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula
  <EMI ID = 45.0>
Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are referred to as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc., or according to the number of carbon atoms, as the most abundant and best studied biochinones U-5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Most mammals, including humans, are dominated by Q10.

Particularly advantageous is coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula:
  <EMI ID = 46.0>

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula
  <EMI ID = 47.0>
on.

   Plastoschinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated end-to-end, e.g. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active ingredients in the context of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  <EMI ID = 48.0>

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified at the carboxyl group with monofunctional or polyfunctional alcohols.

Another beneficial agent is isoflavone 150 [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric betaine].

   Also, acylsoflavone 150e, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula
  <EMI ID = 49.0>
wherein R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention. Preference is given to propionyl carnitine and in particular acetyl carnitine. Both enantiomers (D and L form) are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixtures of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Further advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances which can be used in the preparations according to the invention should of course not be limiting.

   The active compounds can be used individually or in any combination with each other.

The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It may also be advantageous in the context of the present invention to incorporate dyes and / or pigments into the preparations according to the invention.

The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g.

   Fe 2 O 3, Fe 3 O 4, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.

[0258]
 <tb> Chemical or other name <Sep> CIN <Sep> Color


   <tb> Pigment Green <Sep> 10006 <Sep> green


   <tb> Acid Green 1 <Sep> 10020 <Sep> green


   <Tb> 2.4 Dinitrohydroxynaphthalin-7-sulfonic acid <Sep> 10316 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Pigment Yellow 1 <Sep> 11680 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Pigment Yellow 3 <Sep> 11710 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Pigment Orange 1 <Sep> 11725 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> 2.4 -dihydroxyazobenzene <Sep> 11920 <Sep> orange


   <tb> Solvent Red 3 <Sep> 12010 <Sep> red


   <tb> 1- (2 ¾-Chloro-4 ¾-nitro-1 ¾-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene <Sep> 12085 <Sep> red


   <tb> Pigment Red 3 <Sep> 12120 <Sep> red


   <Tb> Ceresrot; Sudan Red; Fat Red G <Sep> 12150 <Sep> red


   <tb> Pigment Red 112 <Sep> 12370 <Sep> red


   <tb> Pigment Red 7 <Sep> 12420 <Sep> red


   <tb> Pigment Brown 1 <Sep> 12480 <Sep> brown


   <tb> 4- (2 ¾-Methoxy-5 ¾-sulfonic acid diethylamide-1 ¾-phenylazo) -3-hydroxy-5 ¾ ¾-chloro-2 ¾ ¾, 4 ¾ ¾-dimethoxy-2-naphthoic acid anilide <Sep> 12490 <Sep> red


   <tb> Disperse Yellow 16 <Sep> 12700 <Sep> yellow


   <Tb> 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -4-amino-benzene-5-sulfonic acid <Sep> 13015 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> 2,4-Dihydroxy-azobenzene-4 ¾-sulfonic acid <Sep> 14270 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> 2- (2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfonic acid) -1-hydroxynaphthalene-4-sulfonic acid <Sep> 14700 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid <Sep> 14720 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 2- (6-sulfo-2,4-xylylazo) -1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid <Sep> 14815 <Sep> red


   <tb> 1- (4 ¾-Sulfophenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene <Sep> 15510 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> 1- (2-sulfonic acid 4-chloro-5-carboxylic acid-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene <Sep> 15525 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 1- (3-methyl-phenylazo-4-sulfonic acid) -2-hydroxynaphthalene <Sep> 15580 <Sep> red


   <tb> 1- (4 ¾, (8 ¾) sulfosäurenaphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene <Sep> 15620 <Sep> red


   <tb> 2-Hydroxy-1,2 ¾-azonaphthalene-1 ¾-sulfonic acid <Sep> 15630 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 3-hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid <Sep> 15800 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid <Sep> 15850 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid <Sep> 15865 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid <Sep> 15880 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 1- (3-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid <Sep> 15980 <Sep> orange


   <tb> 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid <Sep> 15985 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Allura Red <Sep> 16035 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid <Sep> 16185 <Sep> red


   <tb> Acid Orange 10 <Sep> 16230 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic <Sep> 16255 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulphonic acid <Sep> 16290 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid <Sep> 17200 <Sep> red


   <tb> Acid Red 1 <Sep> 18050 <Sep> red


   <tb> Acid Red 155 <Sep> 18130 <Sep> red


   <tb> Acid Yellow 121 <Sep> 18690 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Acid Red 180 <Sep> 18736 <Sep> red


   <tb> Acid Yellow 11 <Sep> 18820 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Acid Yellow 17 <Sep> 18965 <Sep> yellow


   <Tb> 4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid <Sep> 19140 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Pigment Yellow 16 <Sep> 20040 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> 2,6- (4 ¾-Sulfo-2¾¾, 4¾¾-dimethyl) -bis-phenylazo) 1,3-dihydroxy-benzene <Sep> 20170 <Sep> orange


   <tb> Acid Black 1 <Sep> 20470 <Sep> black


   <tb> Pigment Yellow 13 <Sep> 21100 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Pigment Yellow 83 <Sep> 21108 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Solvent Yellow <Sep> 21230 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Acid Red 163 <Sep> 24790 <Sep> red


   <tb> Acid Red 73 <Sep> 27290 <Sep> red


   <tb> 2- [4 ¾- (4 ¾ ¾-sulfo-1¾-phenylazo) -7 ¾-sulfo-1¾-naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid <Sep> 27755 <Sep> black


   <tb> 4 ¾ - [(4 ¾ ¾-sulfo-1 ¾ ¾-phenylazo) -7 ¾-sulfo-1 ¾-naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-8-acetyl-aminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid <Sep> 28440 <Sep> black


   <tb> Direct Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 <Sep> 40215 <Sep> orange


   <tb> Food Yellow <Sep> 40800 <Sep> orange


   <tb> trans-beta -Apo-8 ¾-carotenaldehyde (C30) <Sep> 40820 <Sep> orange


   <tb> trans-apo-8 ¾-carotenoic acid (C30) ethyl ester <Sep> 40825 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> canthaxanthin <Sep> 40850 <Sep> orange


   <tb> Acid Blue 1 <Sep> 42045 <Sep> blue


   <tb> 2,4-Disulfo-5-hydroxy-4 ¾-4 ¾ ¾ bis (diethylamino) triphenyl-carbinol <Sep> 42051 <Sep> blue


   <Tb> 4 - [(- 4-N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) -phenyl- (4-hydroxy-2-sulfophenyl) - (methylene) -1- (N-ethylN-p-sulfobenzyl) -2,5 -cyclohexadienimin] <Sep> 42053 <Sep> green


   <tb> Acid Blue 7 <Sep> 42080 <Sep> blue


   <Tb> (N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzyl-amino) -phenyl- (2-sulfophenyl) methylene (N-ethyl-N-p-sulfobenzyl) delta <2.5> -cyclohexadienimin <Sep> 42090 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Acid Green 9 <Sep> 42100 <Sep> green


   <Tb> diethyl di -sulfobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chloro-di-2-methyl-fuchsonimmonium <Sep> 42170 <Sep> green


   <tb> Basic Violet 14 <Sep> 42510 <Sep> violet


   <tb> Basic Violet 2 <Sep> 42520 <Sep> violet


   <tb> 2 ¾-Methyl-4 ¾- (N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzyl) -amino-4 ¾ ¾- (N-diethyl) -amino-2-methyl-N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzyl-fuchsonimmonium <Sep> 42735 <Sep> blue


   <tb> 4 ¾- (N-Dimethyl) -amino-4 ¾¾ (N-phenyl) -aminonaphtho-N-dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium <Sep> 44045 <Sep> blue


   <tb> 2-hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4 ¾-bis-dimethylamino-naphthofuchsonimmonium <Sep> 44090 <Sep> green


   <tb> Acid Red 52 <Sep> 45100 <Sep> red


   <tb> 3- (2 ¾-Methylphenylamino) -6- (2 ¾-methyl-4 ¾-sulfophenylamino) -9- (2 ¾ ¾-carboxyphenyl) -anthenium salt <Sep> 45190 <Sep> violet


   <tb> Acid Red 50 <Sep> 45220 <Sep> red


   <Tb> phenyl-2-oxyfluoron-2-carboxylic acid <Sep> 45350 <Sep> yellow


   <Tb> 4.5-Dibromofluorescein <Sep> 45370 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein <Sep> 45380 <Sep> red


   <tb> Solvent Dye <Sep> 45396 <Sep> orange


   <tb> Acid Red 98 <Sep> 45405 <Sep> red


   <tb> 3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5 ¾, 6 ¾-Tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein <Sep> 45410 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 4.5-Diiodfluorescein <Sep> 45425 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein <Sep> 45430 <Sep> red


   <Tb> quinophthalone <Sep> 47000 <Sep> yellow


   <Tb> quinophthalone disulphonic <Sep> 47005 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Acid Violet 50 <Sep> 50325 <Sep> violet


   <tb> Acid Black 2 <Sep> 50420 <Sep> black


   <tb> Pigment Violet 23 <Sep> 51319 <Sep> violet


   <tb> 1,2-dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum complex <Sep> 58000 <Sep> red


   <Tb> 3 Oxypyren-5,8,10-sulfonic acid <Sep> 59040 <Sep> green


   <Tb> 1-hydroxy-4-N-phenyl-aminoanthraquinone <Sep> 60724 <Sep> violet


   <tb> 1-hydroxy-4- (4 ¾-methylphenylamino) -anthraquinone <Sep> 60725 <Sep> violet


   <tb> Acid Violet 23 <Sep> 60730 <Sep> violet


   <tb> 1,4-Di (4 ¾-methyl-phenylamino) -anthraquinone <Sep> 61565 <Sep> green


   <Tb> 1,4-bis (o-sulfo-p-toluidino) anthraquinone <Sep> 61570 <Sep> green


   <tb> Acid Blue 80 <Sep> 61585 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Acid Blue 62 <Sep> 62045 <Sep> blue


   <tb> N, N ¾-dihydro-1,2,1 ¾, 2 ¾-anthraquinonazine <Sep> 69800 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Vat Blue 6; Pigment Blue 64 <Sep> 69825 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Vat Orange 7 <Sep> 71105 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> Indigo <Sep> 73000 <Sep> blue


   <Tb> Indigo disulfonic <Sep> 73015 <Sep> blue


   <tb> 4,4 ¾-Dimethyl-6,6 ¾-dichlorothioindigo <Sep> 73360 <Sep> red


   <tb> 5,5 ¾-Dichloro-7,7 ¾-dimethylthioindigo <Sep> 73385 <Sep> violet


   <tb> Quinacridone Violet 19 <Sep> 73900 <Sep> violet


   <tb> Pigment Red 122 <Sep> 73915 <Sep> red


   <tb> Pigment Blue 16 <Sep> 74100 <Sep> blue


   <Tb> phthalocyanines <Sep> 74160 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Direct Blue 86 <Sep> 74180 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Chlorinated phthalocyanines <Sep> 74260 <Sep> green


   <tb> Natural Yellow 6,19; Natural Red 1 <Sep> 75100 <Sep> yellow


   <b> Bixin, nor-bixin <Sep> 75120 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> Lycopene <Sep> 75125 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> trans-alpha, beta or gamma-carotene <Sep> 75130 <Sep> orange


   <tb> Keto and / or hydroxyl derivatives of carotene <Sep> 75135 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> guanine or pearlescing agent <Sep> 75170 <Sep> white


   1,7-bis (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) 1,6-heptadiene-3,5-dione <tb> <Sep> 75300 <Sep> yellow


   <tb> Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of carminic acid <Sep> 75470 <Sep> red


   <tb> chlorophyll a and b; Copper compounds of chlorophylls and chlorophyllins <Sep> 75810 <Sep> green


   <Tb> Aluminum <Sep> 77000 <Sep> white


   <Tb> alumina hydrate <Sep> 77002 <Sep> white


   <tb> hydrous aluminum silicates <Sep> 77004 <Sep> white


   <Tb> ultramarine <Sep> 77007 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Pigment Red 101 and 102 <Sep> 77015 <Sep> red


   <Tb> barium <Sep> 77120 <Sep> white


   bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica <Sep> 77163 <Sep> white


   <Tb> calcium carbonate <Sep> 77220 <Sep> white


   <Tb> Calcium sulphate <Sep> 77231 <Sep> white


   <Tb> Carbon <Sep> 77266 <Sep> black


   <tb> Pigment Black 9 <Sep> 77267 <Sep> black


   <tb> Carbo medicinalis vegetabilis <Sep> 77268: 1 <Sep> black


   <Tb> chromium <Sep> 77288 <Sep> green


   <tb> Chromium oxide, hydrous <Sep> 77289 <Sep> green


   <tb> Pigment Blue 28, Pigment Green 14 <Sep> 77346 <Sep> green


   <tb> Pigment Metal 2 <Sep> 77400 <Sep> brown


   <Tb> Gold <Sep> 77480 <Sep> brown


   <tb> Iron oxides and hydroxides <Sep> 77489 <Sep> orange


   <Tb> iron oxide <Sep> 77491 <Sep> red


   <Tb> iron oxide <Sep> 77492 <Sep> yellow


   <Tb> iron oxide <Sep> 77499 <Sep> black


   <tb> Mixtures of iron (II) and iron (III) hexacyanoferrate <Sep> 77510 <Sep> blue


   <tb> Pigment White 18 <Sep> 77713 <Sep> white


   <Tb> Mangananimoniumdiphosphat <Sep> 77742 <Sep> violet


   <Tb> manganese phosphate; Mn 3 (PO 4) 2 7 H 2 O <Sep> 77745 <Sep> red


   <Tb> Silver <Sep> 77820 <Sep> white


   <tb> Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica <Sep> 77891 <Sep> white


   <Tb> Zinc Oxide <Sep> 77947 <Sep> white


   <tb> 6,7-Dimethyl-9- (1 ¾-D-ribityl) -isoalloxazine, lactoflavin <Sep> <Sep> yellow


   <Tb> caramel <Sep> <Sep> brown


   <tb> Capsanthin, Capsorubin <Sep> <Sep> orange


   <Tb> Betanin <Sep> <Sep> red


   <tb> Benzopyrylium salts, anthocyanins <Sep> <Sep> red


   <tb> aluminum, zinc, magnesium and calcium stearate <Sep> <Sep> white


   <Tb> Bromthymolblau <Sep> <Sep> blue


   <Tb> Bromocresol <Sep> <Sep> green


   <tb> Acid Red 195 <Sep> <Sep> red

It may also be favorable to choose as the dye one or more substances from the following group: 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzol, 1- (2 ¾-chloro-4 ¾-nitro-1 ¾-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene , Ceresrot, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2 ¾-azonaphthalene-1 ¾-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2 Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo ) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol 6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein,

   Aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ¾, 4 ¾, 5 ¾, 6 ¾-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5, 7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo-disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, e.g. Paprika extracts, beta -carotene or cochineal.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are gel creams containing pearlescent pigments.

   Particularly preferred are the types of pearlescent pigments listed below: Natural pearlescent pigments, such as e.g.
 "Fischsilber" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
 "Mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells)
 Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments, e.g. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)

Layer Substrate Pigments: e.g. Mica / metal oxide

The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77 163.

Further advantageous, for example, are the following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide:

[0265]
 <Tb> Group <Sep> Coating / <Sep> Color


   <tb> Silver-white pearlescent pigments <sep> TiO2: 40-60 nm <Sep> Silver


   <Tb> interference pigments <sep> TiO2: 60-80 nm <Sep> yellow


   <Tb> <sep> TiO2: 80-100 nm <Sep> red


   <Tb> <sep> TiO2: 100-140 nm <Sep> blue


   <Tb> <sep> TiO2: 120-160 nm <Sep> green


   <Tb> Color Luster Pigments <Sep> Fe2O3 <Sep> bronze


   <Tb> <Sep> Fe2O3 <Sep> copper


   <Tb> <Sep> Fe2O3 <Sep> red


   <Tb> <Sep> Fe2O3 <Sep> rotviolett


   <Tb> <Sep> Fe2O3 <Sep> rotgrün


   <Tb> <Sep> Fe2O3 <Sep> black


   <Tb> combination pigments <Sep> TiO2 / Fe2O3 <Sep> golds


   <Tb> <Sep> TiO2 / Cr2O3 <Sep> green


   <Tb> <sep> TiO2 / Berlin Blue <Sep> Deep Blue


   <Tb> <Sep> TiO2 / carmine <Sep> red

Particularly preferred are e.g. the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

Of course, the list of pearlescent pigments mentioned should not be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as e.g. Silica and the like more. Advantageously, e.g. SiO2 particles coated with TiO2 and Fe2O3 ("Ronaspheres"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It may also be advantageous to dispense entirely with a substrate such as mica.

   Particularly preferred are pearlescent pigments which are produced using SiO 2. Such pigments, which may also have additional gonichromatic effects, are e.g. available under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF.

Pigments from Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate, which are coated with titanium dioxide, can also be used to advantage. These are available under the name Reflecks. They have a glittering effect in addition to the color due to their particle size of 40-180 microm.

Also particularly advantageous are also effect pigments which are available under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yellow, red, green, blue) from Flora Tech.

   The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19 140, 77 007, 77 289, 77 491).

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, whereby different color effects are generally caused by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of the dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously selected from the range of e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparations according to the invention are prepared under the conditions known to the person skilled in the art.

   In general, the constituents of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately and heated and then with stirring and, particularly advantageous, with homogenization, very particularly advantageous with medium to high energy input, advantageously with the help of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine with a maximum number of revolutions 10 000 U / min, preferably from 2500 to 7700 U / min, combined.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. As a soybean germ extract, a special extract was used, which is obtained from the company Lucas Meyer under the name lsoflavon-150.

Example 1:

O / W Nachtcrème

[0274]
 <Tb> glyceryl <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Shea Butter <Sep> 1


   <Tb> stearyl <Sep> 3


   <Tb> cetyl alcohol <Sep> 2


   <tb> Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides (Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides) <Sep> 2


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 5


   <Tb> Ethylhexylkokosfettsäureester <Sep> 1


   <Tb> dicaprylyl <Sep> 3


   <Tb> tocopheryl acetate <Sep> 0.5


   <tb> Ubiquinone (Q10) <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> sodium ascorbyl <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> retinyl palmitate <Sep> 0.1


   <tb> p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) <Sep> 0.6


   <Tb> Ethylhexylglycerin <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Carbomer <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> EDTA <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 10


   <tb> Fillers / Additives (SiO2, BHT) <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 2:

O / W Day Cream

[0275]
 <tb> glyceryl stearate, self-emulsifying <Sep> 5


   <Tb> stearyl <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Shea Butter <Sep> 1


   <Tb> C12-15 alkyl benzoate <Sep> 3


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 3


   <Tb> oil <Sep> 1


   <Tb> sunflower oil <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Dicarprylylcarbonat <Sep> 3


   <Tb> Ethylhexylcyanodiphenylacrylat (octocrylene) <Sep> 4


   <Tb> ethylhexyl triazone <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Up-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazin <Sep> 2


   <tb> Citric acid, sodium salt <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.6


   <Tb> p-hydroxybenzoates (parabens) <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> hexamidine diisethionate <Sep> 0.04


   <Tb> EDTA <Sep> 0.2


   <tb> ethanol (denatured) <Sep> 2


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 10


   <Tb> Carbomer <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> hydroxypropylmethylcellulose <Sep> 0.2


   <tb> Additives (Distarch Phosphate, SiO2, BHT) <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 3:

Sun protection cream

[0276]
 <Tb> glyceryl stearate <Sep> 3


   <Tb> PEG-40 Stearate <Sep> 1


   <Tb> cetearyl <Sep> 3


   <Tb> myristate <Sep> 1


   <Tb> C12-15 alkyl benzoate <Sep> 3


   <Tb> Cocosglyceride <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Octyldodecanol <Sep> 2


   <tb> Butylene glycol caprylate / caprate <Sep> 3


   <Tb> ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate <Sep> 7


   <tb> phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid <Sep> 1


   <Tb> ethylhexyl triazone <Sep> 2


   <Tb> butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane <Sep> 2


   <Tb> sodium ascorbyl <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> tocopheryl acetate <Sep> 1


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> allantoin <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> methyl propanediol <Sep> 2


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> p-hydroxybenzoates (parabens) <Sep> 0.2


   <tb> C10-30 Alkyl / Acrylates Crosspolymer <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 7


   <tb> Additives (BHT, EDTA) <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 4:

O / W cream

[0277]
 <Tb> glyceryl stearate <Sep> 1


   <Tb> stearic acid <Sep> 3


   <Tb> stearyl <Sep> 2


   <Tb> cetyl alcohol <Sep> 2


   <Tb> C12-15 alkyl benzoate <Sep> 2


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Macadamiaöl <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Myristylmyristate <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Dimethicone <Sep> 2


   <tb> Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides (Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides) <Sep> 1


   <Tb> ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate <Sep> 3


   <tb> phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid <Sep> 1


   <Tb> butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane <Sep> 2


   <Tb> tocopheryl acetate <Sep> 1


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> creatine <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> ubiquinone (Q10) <Sep> 0.05


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> p-hydroxybenzoates (parabens) <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> lodopropinylbutylcarbamat <Sep> 0.02


   <Tb> cyclodextrin <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> iminodisuccinate <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 7


   <Tb> methyl propanediol <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Carbomer <Sep> 0.2


   <tb> Additives (SiO2, talc) <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 5:

After Sun Gel

[0278]
 <Tb> cetearyl <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Shea Butter <Sep> 1


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Octyldodecanol <Sep> 1


   <Tb> dicaprylyl <Sep> 4


   <Tb> dimethicone <Sep> 2


   <Tb> polydecene <Sep> 2


   <Tb> methyl palmitate <Sep> 2


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> sodium ascorbyl <Sep> 0.05


   <Tb> iminodisuccinate <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Ethanol <Sep> 2


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> p-hydroxybenzoates (parabens) <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> carrageenan <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> Carbomer <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 5


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 6:

After Shave Gel

[0279]
 <Tb> triceteareth-4-phosphates <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> cyclomethicones <Sep> 2.0


   <Tb> Octyldodecanol <Sep> 1.0


   <Tb> dicaprylyl <Sep> 3.0


   <Tb> methyl palmitate <Sep> 2.0


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> allantoin <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> Tocpherylacetat <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Ethanol <Sep> 5.0


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.5


   <tb> p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Carbomer <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> distarch <Sep> 1.5


   <Tb> Ethylhexylglycerin <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 4.0


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 7:

O / W cream

[0280]
 <Tb> Glycerylsterat <Sep> 2.5


   <Tb> PEG-40 Stearate <Sep> 1


   <Tb> cetearyl <Sep> 2


   <tb> Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides (Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides) <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Myristylmyristate <Sep> 2


   <Tb> C12-15 alkyl benzoate <Sep> 4


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 2


   <Tb> dicaprylyl <Sep> 3


   <tb> Dimethylpolysiloxane (Dimethicone) <Sep> 2


   <tb> Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (Octocrylene) <Sep> 5


   <tb> 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone) <Sep> 3


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> Alpha rutin <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> citric <Sep> 0.8


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.5


   <tb> p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> lodopropinylbutylcarbamat <Sep> 0.05


   <Tb> 2-EthyIhexylglycerin <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Nylon microparticles <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 10


   <tb> Xanthan gum <Sep> 0.2


   <tb> Additives (Distarch Phosphate, EDTA, BHT) <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 8:

O / W cream

[0281]
 <Tb> polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose <Sep> 3


   <Tb> cetyl alcohol <Sep> 2


   <Tb> C12-15Alkylbenzoat <Sep> 3


   <tb> Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate <Sep> 2


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 2


   <tb> Hydrogenated polydecene <Sep> 1


   <tb> Dimethylpolysiloxane (Dimethicone) <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Isodecylneopentanoate <Sep> 4


   <Tb> Up-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazin <Sep> 1


   <Tb> EthyIhexyImethoxycinnamat <Sep> 5


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> sodium ascorbyl <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> EDTA <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> lodopropinylbutylcarbamat <Sep> 0.05


   <Tb> p-hydroxybenzoates (parabens) <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> Carbomer <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 5


   <tb> Additives (Distarch Phosphate, Talc, BHT) <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 9:

O / W Cream 9

[0282]
 <Tb> Cetearyiglucosid <Sep> 3


   <Tb> Myristyimyristat <Sep> 1


   <Tb> stearyl <Sep> 3


   <Tb> C12-15 alkyl benzoate <Sep> 2


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 3


   <tb> Hydrogenated polydecene <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Dicarprylylcarbonat <Sep> 3


   <Tb> polydecene <Sep> 4


   <Tb> ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate <Sep> 5


   <tb> Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (Octocrylene) <Sep> 3


   <Tb> butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane <Sep> 2


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> retinyl palmitate <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> tocopheryl acetate <Sep> 1


   <tb> Trisodium EDTA <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> p-hydroxybenzoates (parabens) <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> Ethylhexylglycerin <Sep> 0.5


   <tb> Xanthan gum <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 1


   <tb> aluminum starch octenylsuccinate <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 6


   <tb> Additives (talc, BHT, dye) <Sep> 1


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 10:

O / W Nachtcrème

[0283]
 <Tb> glyceryl <Sep> 2


   <Tb> Shea Butter <Sep> 2


   <Tb> cetearyl <Sep> 4


   <tb> Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides (Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides) <Sep> 2


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 5


   <Tb> Ethylhexylkokosfettsäureester <Sep> 1


   <Tb> dicaprylyl <Sep> 3


   <Tb> tocopheryl acetate <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate <Sep> 5


   <Tb> Up-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazin <Sep> 1


   <Tb> ethylhexyl triazone <Sep> 1


   <Tb> sodium ascorbyl <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> phenoxyethanol <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> p-hydroxybenzoates (parabens) <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Ethylhexylglycerin <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 1


   <Tb> EDTA <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 10


   <Tb> Carbomer <Sep> 0.1


   <tb> Ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurates / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers <Sep> 0.3


   <tb> Fillers / Additives (SiO2, BHT) <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 11:

W / O Cream

[0284]
 <Tb> Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate <Sep> 5.0


   <Tb> Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate <Sep> 2.5


   <Tb> cetearyl <Sep> 2


   <Tb> cetyl alcohol <Sep> 2


   <Tb> C12-15 alkyl benzoate <Sep> 8


   <tb> Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride <Sep> 6


   <Tb> Octyldodecanol <Sep> 5


   <tb> Octamethyltetrasiloxane (cyclomethicone) <Sep> 2


   <Tb> lactic acid <Sep> 1


   <tb> Citric acid, sodium salt <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane <Sep> 1


   <Tb> ethylhexyl triazone <Sep> 1


   <Tb> ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate <Sep> 5


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> retinyl palmitate <Sep> 0.05


   <tb> p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 7


   <tb> Fillers (EDTA, BHT) <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 12:

microemulsion

[0285]
 <Tb> Lecithin <Sep> 1.8


   <tb> PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate <Sep> 5.2


   <tb> dicaprylyl ether <Sep> 7.0


   <tb> p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> diazolidinyl <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> 2-Ethylhexylglycerin <Sep> 0.5


   <tb> Tricontayl PVP <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 7


   <Tb> butylene <Sep> 3


   <tb> Additives (Talcum, BHT, EDTA) <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 13:

Pickering

[0286]
 <tb> Microcrystalline wax <Sep> 4.5


   <Tb> Carnauba wax <Sep> 1.5


   <Tb> Candelilla <Sep> 4.0


   <Tb> lanolin <Sep> 4.0


   <tb> bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 <Sep> 3.5


   <Tb> dimethicone <Sep> 1.0


   <tb> Isopropyl palmitate <Sep> 3.5


   <Tb> Triisostearin <Sep> 3.0


   <tb> myristyl lactate <Sep> 4.0


   <Tb> jojoba <Sep> 2.0


   <tb> Hydrogenated polydecene <Sep> 2.5


   <Tb> Octyldodecanol <Sep> 2.5


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5


   <tb> Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate <Sep> 2


   <tb> Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane <Sep> 0.5


   <tb> Micronized Titanium Dioxide (Eusolex T 2000) <Sep> 2.0


   <tb> titanium dioxide Cl 77891 <Sep> 4.0


   <tb> Iron oxides Cl 77491, 77492, 77499 <Sep> 3.2


   <tb> D & C Red 7 <Sep> 0.6


   <tb> tocopheryl acetate <Sep> 1.0


   <Tb> Xylitol <Sep> 2.0


   <Tb> EDTA <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 5.0


   <tb> preservatives, BHT, perfume, flavor <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <Sep> 30.0


   <Tb> castor <sep> ad 100

Example 14:

W / O pins

[0287]
 <Tb> <Sep> balm <Sep> concealer <Sep> Foundation pin <Sep> sunscreen stick


   <tb> Caprylic / Capric triglycerides <Sep> 8 <Sep> 5 <Sep> 5 <Sep> 8


   <Tb> Octyldodecanol <Sep> 7 <Sep> 5 <Sep> 5 <Sep> 8


   <b> Carpylyl carbonates <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 3 <Sep>


   <Tb> dicaprylyl <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 2 <Sep>


   <Tb> paraffin oil <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate <Sep> 2 <Sep> 4 <Sep> <Sep> 8


   <Tb> C12-15 alkyl benzoate <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> Isopopyl Palmitate <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <Tb> jojoba <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 1


   <Tb> lanolin <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <Tb> Dimethicone <Sep> <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 0.5 <Sep>


   <tb> PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer <Sep> 3 <Sep> 3.5 <Sep> 2 <Sep>


   <tb> Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> <Sep> 1.5 <Sep> 2


   <tb> PEG-30 di-polyhydroxystearates <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 2.5


   <tb> Sucrose Distearate <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 <Sep> 9 <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> Cetyl Palmitate <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <Tb> C16-36-alkyl stearates <Sep> 14 <Sep> 1 <Sep> 2 <Sep> 1


   <Tb> C20-40 alkyl stearates <Sep> <Sep> 8 <Sep> 8 <Sep> 9


   <Tb> Carnauba wax <Sep> 1.5 <Sep> 1.5 <Sep> <Sep>


   <Tb> Beeswax <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <Tb> Candelilla <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> PVP / eicosene copolymer <Sep> <Sep> 1 <Sep> <Sep> 1


   <tb> Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 1


   <tb> Micronized Titanium Dioxide <Sep> <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep> 4


   <tb> Ethyl hexyl cyanodiphenyl acrylate (Octocrylene) <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 3.6


   <tb> Octyl methoxycinnamate <Sep> <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep> 3.6


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1 <sep> 0.2 <Sep> 0.1 <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.3 <Sep> 0.5 <sep> 1 <sep> 0.5


   <Tb> Nylon-12 <Sep> <Sep> 3 <Sep> <Sep>


   <Bb> bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) <Sep> 2 <Sep> <Sep> 3 <Sep>


   <Tb> boron nitride <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 3


   <tb> Lauroyl Lysine <Sep> <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl) <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 1


   <tb> Silica LDP <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 1


   <Tb> PTFE <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <Tb> PMMA <Sep> <Sep> 6 <Sep> 3 <Sep>


   <tb> Titanium dioxide Al2O3 coated <Sep> <Sep> 7 <Sep> 6 <Sep>


   <Tb> iron oxides <Sep> <Sep> 4 <Sep> 4 <Sep>


   <Tb> ultramarine <Sep> <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 0.6 <Sep>


   <Tb> pearlescent <Sep> 3 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> Rokonsal S1 <Sep> 0.4 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


   <b> Germall II <Sep> <Sep> 0.25 <Sep> <Sep>


   <tb> Glydant Plus <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 5 <Sep> 2 <Sep> 10 <Sep> 5


   <tb> perfume, BHT, neutralizing agent, <Sep> q.s. <Sep> q.s. <Sep> q.s. <Sep> q.s.


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100

Example 15:

shower

[0288]
 <Tb> sodium laureth <Sep> 33.00


   <tb> Potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen (30%) <Sep> 11.00


   <tb> Cocoamphodiacetate (30%) <Sep> 5.00


   <tb> PEG-7-glyceryl cocoate <Sep> 2.00


   <c> Cocamide MEA <Sep> 1.00


   <Tb> sodium chloride <Sep> 0.50


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.05


   <Tb> citric <Sep> 0.02


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1


   <tb> preservatives, dyes, perfume <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100

Example 16:

conditioner

[0289]
 <Tb> hydroxypropylmethylcellulose <Sep> 0.50


   <Tb> cetrimonium <Sep> 1.00


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 3.00


   <Tb> cetearyl <Sep> 2.50


   <Tb> benzophenone-4 <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> glyceryl stearate <Sep> 2.00


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.1


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1


   <tb> Preservative, perfume, pH adjustment <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <Sep> ad100


   <tb> The pH is adjusted to 3.5. <Sep>

Example 17:

hair conditioner

[0290]
 <Tb> behentrimonium <Sep> 1.00


   <Tb> Glycerol <Sep> 3.00


   <Tb> benzophenone-4 <Sep> 0.25


   <Tb> hydroxyethyl <Sep> 0.20


   <Tb> cetearyl <Sep> 3.00


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> folic acid <Sep> 0.80


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.2


   <tb> Preservative, perfume, pH adjustment <Sep> q.s..


   <Tb> Water <sep> ad 100


   <tb> The pH is adjusted to 3.0. <Sep>

Example 18:

Conditioner shampoo with pearlescent

[0291]
 <Tb> <Sep> 1 <Sep> 2 <Sep> 3


   <Tb> Polyquaternium-10 <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> sodium laureth <Sep> 9.0 <Sep> 9.0 <Sep> 9.0


   <Tb> benzophenone-3 <Sep> <Sep> 0.5 <Sep>


   <Tb> benzophenone-4 <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 0.4


   <Tb> cocoamidopropyl <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> 2.5


   <Tb> pearlizing <Sep> 2.0 <Sep> 2.0 <Sep> 2.0


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.06 <Sep> 0.15 <Sep> 0.01


   <tb> disodium EDTA <Sep> 0.1 <Sep> 0.2 <Sep> 0.15


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.05 <Sep> 0.1 <Sep> 0.05


   <tb> Convergence, perfume, thickener, pH adjustment and solubilizer <Sep> q.s.. <Sep> q.s.. <Sep> q.s..


   <tb> water, VES (desalted) <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100


   <tb> The pH is adjusted to 6. <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>

Example 19:

Clear conditioner shampoo

[0292]
 <Tb> <Sep> 1 <Sep> 2 <Sep> 3


   <Tb> Polyquaternium-10 <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 0.5


   <Tb> benzophenone-4 <Sep> <Sep> 0.4 <Sep>


   <tb> 2-ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate <Sep> <Sep> <Sep> 0.2


   <Tb> sodium laureth <Sep> 9.0 <Sep> 9.0 <Sep> 9.0


   <Tb> cocoamidopropyl <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> 2.5


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.02 <Sep> 0.05 <Sep> 0.05


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1 <Sep> 0.05 <Sep> 0.1


   <tb> Iminodisuccinic acid, Na salt <Sep> 0.2 <Sep> 0.3 <Sep> 0.8


   <tb> Preservatives, perfume, thickener, pH-adjustment and solubilizer <Sep> q.s.. <Sep> q.s.. <Sep> q.s..


   <tb> water, VES (desalted) <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100


   <tb> The pH is adjusted to 6. <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>

Example 20:

Clear light shampoo with volume effect

[0293]
 <Tb> <Sep> 1 <Sep> 2 <Sep> 3


   <Tb> sodium laureth <Sep> 10.0 <Sep> 10.0 <Sep> 10.0


   <Tb> cocoamidopropyl <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> 2.5 <Sep> 2.5


   <Tb> soybean germ extract <Sep> 0.5 <Sep> 0.6 <Sep> 0.3


   <Tb> taurine <Sep> 0.1 <Sep> 0.1 <Sep> 0.1


   <tb> disodium EDTA <Sep> 0.2 <Sep> 0.15 <Sep> 0.7


   <tb> preservatives, perfume, thickener pH adjustment and solubilizer <Sep> q.s.. <Sep> q.s.. <Sep> q.s..


   <tb> water, VES (desalted) <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100 <sep> ad 100


   <tb> The pH is adjusted to 5.5. <Sep> <Sep> <Sep>


    

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing isoflavonoids and taurine. 2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the isoflavonoids are selected from the group consisting of genistein, daidzein, glycitein and their glycosides and glycoside acetate. 3. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that plant extracts containing isoflavonoids are selected as isoflavonoids. 4. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that plant extracts of soybean germs and clover are selected as isoflavonoids. 5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that soybean seed extracts in concentrations of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-2 wt .-%, are present. 6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of isoflavonoids 0.1-0.2 wt .-% is. 7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that taurine in concentrations of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, is present. 8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of taurine to the total amount of isoflavonoids of 1: 100 to 1000: 1, more preferably 1: 1 to 1: 2, is. 9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an O / W emulsion or hydrodispersion. 10. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims for the treatment and care in particular of mature, light-aged and / or age-dry skin, for balancing degenerative processes in all skin layers and for improving the communication between the individual skin layers (dermal-epidermal crosstalk).