EP1965867A1 - Procede de permanente applique sur des fibres contenant de la keratine - Google Patents

Procede de permanente applique sur des fibres contenant de la keratine

Info

Publication number
EP1965867A1
EP1965867A1 EP06818721A EP06818721A EP1965867A1 EP 1965867 A1 EP1965867 A1 EP 1965867A1 EP 06818721 A EP06818721 A EP 06818721A EP 06818721 A EP06818721 A EP 06818721A EP 1965867 A1 EP1965867 A1 EP 1965867A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
keratin
acid
aqueous
reducing
fibers
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP06818721A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Burkhard Müller
Birgit Rautenberg-Groth
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1965867A1 publication Critical patent/EP1965867A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/447—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for permanently deforming keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • keratin-containing fibers in principle all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products made therefrom or textiles.
  • the invention is preferably used as part of a hair shaping, in particular the permanent wavy smoother or smoothing frizzy human hair and wigs made from it.
  • a permanent deformation keratin inconveniencer fibers is usually carried out so as to mechanically deform the fiber and determines the deformation by suitable means.
  • the fiber Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with a keratin-reducing preparation. After a rinsing process, the fiber is then treated in the so-called fixing step with an oxidizing agent preparation, rinsed and freed after or during the fixing step of the shaping aids (winders, papillots).
  • a mercaptan e.g.
  • Ammonium thioglycolate is used, this part of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule cleaves to -SH groups, so that there is a softening of keratin fibers.
  • disulfide bridges are knotted in the hair keratin, so that the Keratinge Shege is fixed in the predetermined deformation.
  • sulfite instead of the mercaptans for hair styling.
  • Hydrogen sulfite, sulfite or disulfite containing reducing agents do not have the strong odor of the mercaptan-containing agents.
  • the cleavage can be reversed as described above in a fixing step using an oxidizing agent to form new disulfide bridges.
  • the permanent smoothing of keratin-containing fibers is achieved analogously by the use of keratin-reducing and -oxidierenden compositions.
  • the frizzy hair is either on a large diameter winder usually wound more than 15 mm or the hair combed smooth under the action of the keratin-reducing composition.
  • the winder it is also possible to smooth the fiber on a smoothing board. Smoothing boards are usually rectangular boards, for example made of plastic.
  • EP 083 095 A2 has therefore proposed a method for shaping hair, in which the keratin-reducing preparation is rinsed out before the hair is exposed to elevated temperature.
  • the mechanical deformation may be carried out before applying the keratin-reducing preparation, after applying the keratin-reducing preparation and before rinsing out this preparation or after applying the keratin-reducing preparation and after rinsing out this preparation. It is not described that it may be detrimental when the hair is exposed to the keratin reducing composition while under tension.
  • Commercially available corrugating agents are used as the keratin-reducing preparation. On special properties of these means is not turned off.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to provide a deformation process for keratin fibers, especially for human hair, which provides a uniform deformation result, prevents excessive damage to the fibers and also ensures that the scalp is not unnecessarily burdened.
  • the object is achieved by a method in which the keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, first treated with a reducing agent preparation, then rinsed and only after the Reducing agent preparation was rinsed out, be deformed with the aid of deformation aids, wherein the reducing agent preparation is present as an emulsion.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a process for permanently deforming keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein
  • an aqueous, keratin-reducing composition containing at least one keratin-reducing compound to which fibers are applied (i) the fibers are rinsed after a contact time Z1 and optionally dried, (iii) the fibers are subsequently deformed with the aid of deformation aids and ( iv) finally an oxidizing composition containing at least one oxidizing compound is applied to the fibers and rinsed off again after a contact time Z2,
  • aqueous, keratin-reducing composition is in the form of an emulsion.
  • the inventive method is characterized in particular by a special uniformity of the deformation, and a low load of fiber and scalp.
  • Deformation aids in the sense of the method according to the invention can e.g. Curlers or papillotes in the case of a perm, or aids for a mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron in case of hair straightening.
  • the forming aids such as winder
  • An aqueous composition according to the invention contains at least 50% by weight of water, based on the weight of the total composition.
  • a crucial step of the process according to the invention is the rinsing out of the reducing agent preparation before the mechanical deformation of the fibers. This ensures that a uniform deformation result is achieved. It is also essential that the aqueous, keratin-reducing composition is present as an emulsion. Surprisingly It has been shown that the emulsion remains evenly distributed in the hair during the exposure time Z1 and does not run or drip off the fiber.
  • the aqueous, keratin-reducing composition preferably has a viscosity of 1000
  • the viscosity can be adjusted solely by selecting the type and amount of immiscible liquids that form the emulsion.
  • the aqueous, keratin-reducing composition for adjusting the viscosity additionally contains at least one viscosity-increasing compound, hereinafter referred to as thickener.
  • Thickeners which can be used according to the invention are, for example, agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, eg. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such.
  • bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol, and viscosity-increasing polyacrylate-based polymers such as those sold under the trade names Pemulen ® , Aculyn ® and Carbopol ® .
  • the aqueous keratin-reducing composition particularly preferably contains a hydroxyalkylcellulose as thickener.
  • Suitable hydroxyalkylcelluloses are commercially available and are sold for example under the trade names Natrosol ® (company Hercules), Cellosize ® (Amerchol) and Tylose ® (Clariant).
  • Natrosol ® company Hercules
  • Cellosize ® Alchol
  • Tylose ® Clariant
  • the aqueous, keratin-reducing composition contains the thickener preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total aqueous, keratin-reducing composition.
  • the aqueous keratin-reducing composition may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple emulsion.
  • the aqueous keratin reducing composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids that are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the liquids is dispersed in the form of fine droplets in the other liquid under the expense of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces.
  • Emulsions are known in which a permanent dispersion of a liquid in another liquid can be achieved without the addition of further auxiliaries. In general, however, it is advisable to stabilize emulsions by adding so-called emulsifiers.
  • the aqueous, keratin-reducing composition therefore preferably contains at least one emulsifier.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which bind to C-atom 3 of the
  • Steroid scaffold carry a hydroxyl group and both from animal tissue
  • Zoosterine as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols) are isolated.
  • examples for Zoosterins are cholesterol and lanosterol.
  • suitable phytosterols are
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • the emulsifiers are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the respective total composition.
  • nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 12 to 18 are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Very particular preference is given to polyethylene glycol monolauryl ether with about 23 molar equivalent of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-23). This has an HLB value of 16.9.
  • the emulsion-form, aqueous, keratin-reducing composition contains water as one of the at least two immiscible or poorly miscible liquids.
  • the second liquid is preferably an oil, both natural and synthetic oils, such as vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, but also ester oils, dicarboxylic acid esters, symmetric, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, triflic acid esters of fatty acids with glycerol, fatty acid partial glycerides and fatty alcohols are suitable.
  • aqueous, keratin-reducing compositions which contain as second liquid at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol.
  • Fatty alcohols which may be used are fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 - groups.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which usually can be assumed by recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or Isocarb® ® 24 available for purchase.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • Particularly preferred mixtures of stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol are used, which are referred to in the INCI nomenclature as Cetearyl Alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohols are used, for example, in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
  • the reaction time Z1 is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.
  • the reaction time Z2 is preferably 1-30 minutes, more preferably 5-20 minutes.
  • the keratin-reducing compounds contained in the aqueous composition of step (i) are preferably selected from compounds having at least one thiol group and derivatives thereof, sulfites, hydrogen sulfites and disulfites.
  • Compounds having at least one thiol group and derivatives thereof include, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, phenylthioglycolic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters (such as isooctylthioglycolate and isopropylthioglycolate), cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid.
  • thioglycolic acid thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, phenylthioglycolic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters (such as isooctylthioglycolate and isopropylthioglycolate), cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid.
  • suitable are the Monoethanolammoniumsalze- or ammonium salts of thiogly
  • the aqueous compositions usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.
  • Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the disulfites which may be contained in the aqueous composition are alkali disulfites such as sodium disulfite (Na 2 S 2 O 5 ) and potassium disulfite (K 2 S 2 O 5 ), and magnesium disulfite and ammonium disulfite ((NH 4 J 2 S 2 O 5 ) According to the invention, ammonium bisulfite may be preferred.
  • alkali disulfites such as sodium disulfite (Na 2 S 2 O 5 ) and potassium disulfite (K 2 S 2 O 5 )
  • magnesium disulfite and ammonium disulfite (NH 4 J 2 S 2 O 5 )
  • ammonium bisulfite may be preferred
  • Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of hydrogen sulfites which may be present in the aqueous composition are hydrogen sulfites as alkali, magnesium, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C 2 -C 4 mono
  • ammonium bisulfite can be a particularly preferred hydrogen sulfite.
  • keratin-reducing compounds of sulfites which may be included in the aqueous composition, sulfites as alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt Base of a C 2 -C 4 -mono-, di- or trialkanolamine Ammonium sulfite is preferred here
  • the pH of the w When using sulfite and / or disulfite and / or hydrogen sulfide, the aqueous composition is preferably adjusted to a value in the neutral range from pH 5 to 8, preferably from pH 6 to 7.5.
  • Preferred C 2 -C 4 -alkanolamines according to the invention are 2-aminoethanol (monoethanolamine) and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine (triethanolamine).
  • Monoethanolamine is a particularly preferred C 2 -C 4 alkanolamine, which is used in particular in an amount of 0.2 to 6 wt .-% based on the total aqueous composition.
  • the keratin-reducing compounds contained in the aqueous composition of step (i) are particularly preferably selected from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid and cysteine and salts thereof.
  • the keratin-reducing compound is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably in an amount of 5 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total aqueous keratin-reducing composition.
  • the aqueous keratin-reducing composition may contain other components that promote the action of the keratin-reducing compound on the keratin.
  • Such components include swelling agents for keratin fibers such as CrC 6 alcohols and water-soluble glycols or polyols such as glycerol, 1, 2-propylene glycol or sorbitol and urea or urea derivatives such as allantoin and guanidine and imidazole and its derivatives.
  • the aqueous composition contains 0.05 to 5 wt .-% 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 0.05 to 5 wt .-% urea. The amounts are based on the total aqueous composition.
  • a dry keratin-containing fiber according to step (ii) of the method according to the invention is present when the water residues adhering to the hair have evaporated to such an extent that the hairs fall individually.
  • a dry keratin fiber either of Moisture content of the fiber with the humidity of the air is substantially in equilibrium or the fiber absorbs moisture from the air of the environment.
  • the deformed keratinic fibers are fixed by applying an oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizing compound contained in the oxidizing composition has such a redox potential that two mercapto groups can be oxidized to form a disulfide bridge.
  • a preferred oxidizing agent is selected from, for example, sodium bromate, potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide. It is particularly preferable to use hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent.
  • customary stabilizers can additionally be added.
  • the pH of the aqueous H 2 O 2 preparations which usually contain about 0.5 to 3.0% by weight of H 2 O 2 , is preferably from 2 to 6.
  • Concentrates of usually up to 30% may also be used Wt .-% H 2 O 2 are used, which are diluted before use. In this case, it may also be preferred to use commercial fast fixings, for example Henkel Natural Styling Rinse Neutraliser 1: 4. If the agent according to the invention contains bromate as the oxidizing agent, this is usually contained in concentrations of 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7.
  • Both the aqueous keratin-reducing composition and the oxidizing composition may further contain all other ingredients conventional for such compositions.
  • Such ingredients can be, for example, conditioning agents, surfactants, UV stabilizers, preservatives, complexing agents, thickeners or viscosity-increasing additives.
  • the conditioning agents used are preferably ammonium salts, particularly preferably trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride, which is referred to in the INCI nomenclature as Cetrimonium Chloride, and / or the poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-6.
  • Suitable surfactants are all surfactants from the group of nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants, the group of amphoteric or ampholytic surfactants comprising zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes.
  • the surfactants have, inter alia, the task of promoting the wetting of the keratin surface by the treatment solution.
  • the surfactants may also have emulsifying effect.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or Phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soap),
  • Ethercarbon Acid the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 -
  • Hydrocarbon radical is, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II)
  • R 7 CO (AIkO) n SO 3 M (E1-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or
  • n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP 0 561 825 B1, EP 0 561 999 B1, DE 42 04 700 A1 or AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc.
  • amide ether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044, condensation products of C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the person skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, such as for example, the Lamepon® ® - types Gluadin® ® - types Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO * " '- or -SO 3'.
  • '' Group carry Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, in each case with A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 - C 18 - sarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, one
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 stands, amine oxides
  • Hydroxymix ethers as described for example in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II),
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and the like technical mixtures, as obtained for example in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci 2/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.
  • R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference is made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):
  • fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide glucamides of the formula (E4-IV), in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO for the Acyl of caproic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petro-, linoleic, linolenic, gadoleic, behenic or erucic acid or those technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • nonionic surfactants As preferred nonionic surfactants, amine oxides and the alkylene oxide addition products have proved to be saturated linear fatty alcohols, which are optionally substituted by at least one further hydroxy group, and fatty acids containing from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • nonionic surfactants are N, N-cocoalkylamine N.Dimethyl-N-oxide with the INCI name Cocamine Oxide, which is for example marketed under the name Aromox ® by the company Akzo Nobel, as well as the alkoxylated lauryl glycol ether with the INCI name PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether, which is marketed for example under the name Eumulgin ® L by the company Cognis.
  • sugar surfactants may be present as nonionic surfactants. These are preferably present in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, based on the respective total composition. Amounts of 0.5 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and very particularly preferred amounts of from 0.5 to 7.5 wt.%.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to use native plant or animal raw materials in the manufacture of these substances, so that one can Substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, based on the particular total composition used according to the invention.
  • the preservatives used are preferably parabens, particularly preferably methylparaben.
  • Preferred complexing agents are EDTA, NTA, organophosphonic acids, dipicolinic acid, salicylic acid, more preferably 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid.
  • aqueous, keratin-reducing composition and / or the oxidizing composition may contain all customary further auxiliaries and additives.
  • the following compounds may be included:
  • Sugars with 5 and / or 6 carbon atoms especially as mono- and / or oligosaccharides, for example glucose, fructose, galactose, lactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose and / or their derivatives, eg Ether derivatives, amino derivatives and / or acetyl derivatives such as acetylated glucose, e.g. Tetraacetylglucose, pentaacetylglucose and / or 2-acetamido-2-deoxyglucose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, allose, lactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose, galactose and lactose are particularly preferred;
  • Onic acids in particular gluconic acid, glucuronic acid;
  • Polyols e.g. Glucamines, glycerol, mono- or diglycerides, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-hydroxymethylpropanetriol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol;
  • Polyhydroxy acids e.g. Pentahydroxyhexanoic acid, tetrahydroxypentanoic acid and / or derivatives thereof, e.g. Ethers, esters and / or amides, e.g. Pentahydroxyhexanklareamid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts; _further examples: citric acid, malic acid or tartaric acid;
  • Vitamin B6, C and / or E and / or their derivatives e.g. Vitamin B6, C and / or E and / or their derivatives
  • Hydroxy acids e.g. ⁇ -, ß-hydroxy fatty acids or keto fatty acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts; such as salicylic acid or lactic acid, glyoxylic acid, glycolic acid.
  • water-soluble polymers firming action e.g. Polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers,
  • Antidandruff agents such as e.g. Picrotone Olamine, Zinc Omadine,
  • active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids, plant extracts,
  • PH adjusting and buffering agents e.g. Citric acid / sodium citrate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, guanidine carbonate, ammonia, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid,
  • Oil, fat and wax components preferably in emulsified form,
  • the keratin-containing fibers are moistened prior to step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water.
  • the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair back.
  • the keratinic fibers are subjected to a temperature treatment. It has proved to be particularly advantageous to carry out the temperature treatment only after rinsing out the aqueous, keratin-reducing composition. In this procedure, the keratin fiber to be deformed is not simultaneously exposed to the reducing agent and thermal stress. An over-treatment, i. Too much deformation, and a strong damage to the fibers can be avoided.
  • the keratinic fibers are heated between the treatment steps (ii) and (iii), during the treatment step (iii) and / or after the treatment step (iii), wherein the heating after the treatment step (iii), i. after the mechanical deformation of the keratinic fibers, is particularly preferred.
  • the temperature treatment can be carried out, for example, by means of heatable winders, the supply of heated air, for example by means of a hair dryer or dryer hood or in the event that the keratinic fibers are to be smoothed, with the aid of appropriately tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates.
  • the keratinic fibers are preferably heated to a temperature of 5O 0 C to 220 ° C. If the deformation is a corrugation, a temperature range from 5O 0 C to 15O 0 C 1, in particular from 8O 0 C to 14O 0 C, is preferred. If it is in the deformation of a smoothing, higher temperatures, for example 12O 0 C to 220 ° C, more preferably 13O 0 C to 200 0 C, preferably.
  • the keratinic fibers can be aftertreated in the usual way.
  • a commercial conditioner may be advantageous.
  • a treatment with a conditioner can also be carried out between step (iii) and (iv) of the method according to the invention.
  • Fatty alcohol sulfate sodium salt (about 90-96% active ingredient content, INCI name: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate) (Cognis)
  • Lauryl glycol ether ethoxylated with 1 unit of propylene oxide and 9 units of ethylene oxide (INCI).
  • Trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 24-26% active ingredient; INCI name: Aqua
  • Undamaged hair was moistened with water and toweled with a towel.
  • the reshaping agent was uniformly applied to the entire hair. After a period of exposure of 20 minutes, the hair was rinsed, gently toweled with a towel and wound on winder with a diameter of 8 millimeters. The winders were heated to about 12O 0 C. After about 10 minutes, the heat was stopped. Once the hair had cooled to room temperature, it was treated with one of the fixatives shown in Table 1. After 15 minutes exposure time, the wipers were removed, the hair rinsed with water and finally dried. This procedure was run through with both fixers F1 to F2. Regardless of the fixative used, a very uniform wave result was achieved with little hair damage.

Landscapes

  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de permanente appliqué sur des fibres contenant de la kératine, notamment des cheveux humains. Selon l'invention, une composition aqueuse sous forme d'émulsion visant à réduire la kératine et contenant au moins un composé réduisant la kératine est appliquée sur les fibres, puis les fibres sont rincées et éventuellement séchées après un temps d'imprégnation Z1, ensuite, les fibres sont permanentées au moyen d'auxiliaires de permanente, enfin, une composition oxydante contenant au moins un composé oxydant est appliquée sur les fibres et rincée après un temps d'imprégnation Z2.
EP06818721A 2005-12-19 2006-11-22 Procede de permanente applique sur des fibres contenant de la keratine Withdrawn EP1965867A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200510061021 DE102005061021A1 (de) 2005-12-19 2005-12-19 Verfahren zum Verformen keratinhaliger Fasern
PCT/EP2006/011174 WO2007073809A1 (fr) 2005-12-19 2006-11-22 Procede de permanente applique sur des fibres contenant de la keratine

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1965867A1 true EP1965867A1 (fr) 2008-09-10

Family

ID=37672217

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP06818721A Withdrawn EP1965867A1 (fr) 2005-12-19 2006-11-22 Procede de permanente applique sur des fibres contenant de la keratine

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1965867A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102005061021A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2007073809A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009104024A1 (fr) * 2008-02-22 2009-08-27 Mechtronic Limited Ensemble couvercle de remplissage de cuve de stockage de fluide pour camion-citerne

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102011089573A1 (de) * 2011-12-22 2013-06-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verformungsmittel für keratinische Fasern und Haarverformungsverfahren
WO2021242724A1 (fr) * 2020-05-25 2021-12-02 Cali-Curl, LLC Formulation de permanente pour cheveux sans odeur désagréable et procédé d'utilisation

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2405166A (en) * 1942-02-11 1946-08-06 Raymond Lab Inc Process for waving hair
EP0083095A3 (fr) * 1981-12-24 1984-04-04 Helene Curtis Industries, Inc. Procédé pour l'ondulation ou défrisage des cheveux par voie réductive
FR2657254B1 (fr) * 1990-01-19 1992-04-10 Oreal Composition cosmetique reductrice pour la permanente des cheveux, a base de n-acetylcysteamine et d'un polymere cationique, et son utilisation dans un procede de deformation permanente des cheveux.
DE19635481A1 (de) * 1996-09-02 1998-03-05 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren und Mittel zur dauerhaften Verformung von Keratinfasern
DE19816662A1 (de) * 1998-04-15 1999-10-21 Henkel Kgaa Haarverformungsmittel
DE102004061610A1 (de) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-22 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetisches Kit zur Haar-und Kopfhautbehandlung

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO2007073809A1 *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009104024A1 (fr) * 2008-02-22 2009-08-27 Mechtronic Limited Ensemble couvercle de remplissage de cuve de stockage de fluide pour camion-citerne
US8608021B2 (en) 2008-02-22 2013-12-17 Mechtronic Limited Road tanker fluid storage tank fill cover assembly

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2007073809A1 (fr) 2007-07-05
DE102005061021A1 (de) 2007-06-21

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP1656184B1 (fr) Procede pour lisser des fibres keratiniques
EP0746308B1 (fr) Emulsions
EP1747045A1 (fr) Procede et composition pour restructurer des fibres de keratine
EP1786520B1 (fr) Composition et procede pour lisser des fibres keratiniques
EP1965867A1 (fr) Procede de permanente applique sur des fibres contenant de la keratine
WO2002009659A2 (fr) Procede de realisation de permanentes
EP2519216B1 (fr) Agent de traitement capillaire comprenant un trialcoxysilane spécial et un adjuvant supplémentaire
EP2361079B1 (fr) Procédé de coloration et de mise en forme de fibres kératiniques
DE4213520A1 (de) Verfahren zur dauerhaften Verformung von Haaren
EP1466584B1 (fr) Agent pour l'ondulation des fibres kératiniques contenant des huiles de parfums
WO2007073808A1 (fr) Permanente sur fibres de keratine colorees
EP2506823A1 (fr) Utilisation d'huile-ester dans un procédé de mise en forme permanente des cheveux
WO2000032156A1 (fr) Agents pour permanenter des fibres de keratine
WO1990006105A2 (fr) Melanges tensio-actifs
EP1363586B1 (fr) Procede de mise en forme durable de fibres keratinique et produit correspondant
EP1463484A1 (fr) Procede de mise en forme permanente de fibres keratiniques et agents
DE102017219296A1 (de) Relaxer mit Methionin
WO2002058650A1 (fr) Procede et agent de mise en forme durable de fibres keratiniques
EP1786389A1 (fr) Produits pour permanente inoffensifs pour la peau

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20080222

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC NL PL PT RO SE SI SK TR

17Q First examination report despatched

Effective date: 20081107

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN

18D Application deemed to be withdrawn

Effective date: 20110601