EP2506823A1 - Utilisation d'huile-ester dans un procédé de mise en forme permanente des cheveux - Google Patents

Utilisation d'huile-ester dans un procédé de mise en forme permanente des cheveux

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Publication number
EP2506823A1
EP2506823A1 EP10782245A EP10782245A EP2506823A1 EP 2506823 A1 EP2506823 A1 EP 2506823A1 EP 10782245 A EP10782245 A EP 10782245A EP 10782245 A EP10782245 A EP 10782245A EP 2506823 A1 EP2506823 A1 EP 2506823A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
aqueous composition
branched
linear
hydrocarbon radical
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP10782245A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Winfried Emmerling
Birgit Rautenberg-Groth
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2506823A1 publication Critical patent/EP2506823A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of ester oil for hair care during (in particular the reducing stage) of permanent hair deformation, corresponding corrugating means as well as a method for permanent hair shaping.
  • the permanent hair deformation is carried out in accordance with the known Da uowe Ii method in such a way that the hair is mechanically deformed and the deformation z. B. by winding on hair curlers or Papilloten sets or defined using a curling iron.
  • the hair Before, during or after this deformation, the hair is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance and rinsed after a contact time with water or an aqueous solution. Sometimes it proves to be advantageous to support the transformation by using a heat hood as a heat source.
  • the hair is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After a period of action, this is also rinsed out of the hair and the hair from the mechanical deformation aids (winder, papillots) freed.
  • the permanent smoothing of keratin-containing fibers is achieved analogously by the use of keratin-reducing and -oxidierenden compositions.
  • the frizzy hair is either wound on large diameter winders, usually more than 15 mm, or the hair is combed smooth under the action of the keratin reducing composition.
  • it is also possible to smooth the fiber on a smoothing board. Smoothing boards are usually rectangular panels e.g. made of plastic.
  • the fiber is wetted with the keratin-reducing preparation.
  • Said aqueous preparation with keratin-reducing substance is usually made alkaline so that the hair swells and in this way a deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance is made possible in the hair.
  • the keratin-reducing substance cleaves some of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH groups, so that there is a relaxation of the peptide cross-linking and due to the tension of the hair by the mechanical deformation to a reorientation of Keratinge circages. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent again disulfide bonds are knotted, and in this way the Keratingechege is reflowed in the given deformation.
  • ester oils are used in the keratin-reducing agent used during the forming process - especially before a heat treatment of the hair.
  • the hair does not feel dry and brittle but smooth and combs perfectly.
  • the corrugation strength is not affected by the addition of the ester oil.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore the use of at least one ester oil for hair conditioning and for the reduction of hair damage during permanent hair shaping. In particular, the feel of the hair and the combability is noticeably improved.
  • an aqueous composition containing at least one ester oil and at least one keratin-reducing compound.
  • Corresponding aqueous compositions are the second subject of the invention.
  • Ester oils according to the invention have a melting point of less than 30 ° C. at a pressure of 1013 mbar and have at least one (optionally substituted) alkyloxycarbonyl group in the molecule.
  • Preferred agents of the invention are characterized in that the ester oils in an amount of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1, 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.3 to 0 , 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition are included.
  • Preferred aqueous compositions are those in which at least one ester oil is present, which is selected from (C 4 to C 2 o) monocarboxylic esters of (C 3 to C 20 ) alcohols and / or dialkyl carbonates and / or diesters of (C 3 to C 2 o) -alcohols with alpha, omega (C 4 to C 8 ) -carboxylic acids and / or diesters of (C 2 to C 6 ) -diols with (C 3 to C 10 ) -monocarboxylic acids.
  • ester oil is present, which is selected from (C 4 to C 2 o) monocarboxylic esters of (C 3 to C 20 ) alcohols and / or dialkyl carbonates and / or diesters of (C 3 to C 2 o) -alcohols with alpha, omega (C 4 to C 8 ) -carboxylic acids and / or diesters of (C 2 to C 6 )
  • ester oil is selected from at least one compound of the formula (I) and / or of the formula (II) and or of the formula (III)
  • R is a linear (C 3 to C 20 ) -hydrocarbon radical, a branched (C 3 to C 20 ) -hydrocarbon radical, a (C 2 to C 6 ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C 3 to C 8 ) -alkoxy group or a branched (C 3 to C 8 ) alkoxy group, R 2 is a linear (C 3 to C 2 o) hydrocarbon radical or a branched one
  • R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a linear (C 3 to C 10 ) -alkyl group or a branched (C 3 to C 10 ) -alkyl group,
  • R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent a linear (C 2 to C 9 ) -alkyl group or a branched (C 3 to C 10 ) -alkyl group,
  • a and A 2 independently represent a (C 2 to C 8 ) alkanediyl group.
  • linear (C 3 to C 20 ) -hydrocarbon radicals are n-propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n Dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-oleyl.
  • Examples of branched (C 3 to C 20 ) -hydrocarbon radicals are isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl, heptan-3-yl, 2-octyldodecyl, isostearyl, isocetyl.
  • Preferred radicals R according to formula (I) are 1-hydroxyethyl, heptyl, heptan-3-yl, octan-2-yl, nonyl, undecanyl, tridecanyl, pentadecanyl, heptadecanyl.
  • Preferred radicals R 2 according to formula (I) are isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexadecyl, isohexadecyl (ie isocetyl), oleyl, octadecyl or isooctadecyl (ie isostearyl).
  • Preferred radicals R 3 and R 4 according to formula (II) are independently isopropyl, n-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl or n-octyl.
  • Preferred radicals A according to formula (II) are butane-1, 4-diyl, hexane-1, 6-diyl or octane-1, 8-diyl.
  • Preferred radicals R 5 and R 6 according to formula (III) are independently heptyl, heptan-3-yl, octan-2-yl, nonyl, undecanyl, tridecanyl, pentadecanyl, heptadecanyl. ,
  • Preferred radicals A 2 according to formula (III) are ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl, butane-1, 3-diyl, butane-1, 4-diyl or pentane-2,4-diyl ,
  • the agent as ester oil at least one compound selected from 2,2-dimethylpropane-1, 3-diyl-di (2-ethylhexanoate) (CAS No .: 28510-23-8, eg Schercemol ® NGDO ester Lubrizol) diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl sebacate, Tridecyl neopentanoate (for example, Ceraphyl 55 ® by ISP), decyl oleate (eg ® Ceraphyl 140 from ISP), isostearyl (eg ® Ceraphyl 375 from ISP), isocetyl stearate (eg ® Ceraphyl 494 from ISP), 2-octyldodecyl stearate (eg Ceraphyl ® ODS ISP), isopropyl myr
  • a particularly preferred ester oil according to the present invention is selected from at least one ester oil of the formula (I) wherein the radicals R and R 2 are defined as described above and at least one of the radicals R or R 2 is a branched (C 3 to C 2 o ) - hydrocarbon radical stands.
  • R 2 is a linear (C 3 to C 2 o) hydrocarbon radical or a branched one
  • R 7 is a (C 4 to C 6 ) alkyl group
  • R 8 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • the ester oils of the invention are preferably used in an aqueous composition.
  • An aqueous composition according to the invention contains at least 50% by weight of water, based on the weight of the total composition.
  • This aqueous composition may be in various forms, for example as a lotion, oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the compounds of the formula (I) during the reducing stage of permanent hair shaping (in particular as constituent of an aqueous composition containing at least one keratin-reducing compound).
  • the keratin-reducing compounds contained in the aqueous composition are preferably selected from compounds having at least one thiol group and their derivatives, from sulfites, hydrogen sulfites and disulfites.
  • Compounds having at least one thiol group and derivatives thereof are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, phenylthioglycolic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters (such as isooctylthioglycolate and isopropylthio glycolate), cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid.
  • the monoethanolammonium salts or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid and the free acids are preferably used in the aqueous composition at a pH of from 5 to 12, in particular from 7 to 9.5.
  • the aqueous compositions usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.
  • Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the disulfites which may be contained in the aqueous composition are alkali disulfites such as sodium disulfite (Na 2 S 2 O 5 ) and potassium disulfite (K 2 S 2 O 5 ), and magnesium disulfite and ammonium disulfite ((NH 4 ) 2 S 2 0 5 ). Ammonium disulfite may be preferred according to the invention.
  • Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the hydrogen sulfites which may be present in the aqueous composition are hydrogen sulfites as alkali, magnesium, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C 2 -C 4 mono-, di- or trialkanolamine.
  • Ammonium hydrogen sulfite may be a particularly preferred hydrogen sulfite.
  • keratin-reducing compounds of the sulfites which may be present in the aqueous composition are sulfites as alkali, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C 2 -C 4 -mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium sulfite is preferred.
  • the pH of the aqueous composition is preferably adjusted to a value in the neutral range of from pH 5 to 8, preferably from pH 6 to 7.5.
  • Preferred C 2 -C 4 -alkanolamines according to the invention are 2-aminoethanol (monoethanolamine) and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine (triethanolamine).
  • Monoethanolamine is a particularly preferred C 2 -C 4 alkanolamine, which is used in particular in an amount of 0.2 to 6 wt .-% based on the total aqueous composition.
  • the keratin-reducing compound is preferably used in an amount of 5 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total aqueous composition.
  • the aqueous composition may additionally contain other components that promote the action of the keratin-reducing compound on the keratin.
  • Such Components include swelling agents for keratin-containing fibers such as C-
  • a preferred further component is 1, 2-propylene glycol, in particular in an amount of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%. The amounts are based on the total aqueous composition.
  • the aqueous composition contains 0 to 5 wt .-% of 1, 2-propylene glycol and / or 0 to 5 wt .-% urea.
  • the aqueous composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one surfactant.
  • Preferred surfactants are independently selected from anionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants.
  • the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • nonionic surfactants are amine oxides, and adducts of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group proved.
  • Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates,
  • R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906,
  • Condensation products of C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ _) in the molecule - carry or -S0 3 ( " 'group Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines such as N-alkyl.
  • N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, in each case with
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group alkyl or acyl group in the molecule and capable of forming inner salts - C 2 4 are.
  • amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly suitable ampholytic surfactants are selected from N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • At least one surfactant of the aqueous composition is selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants.
  • the aqueous composition contains at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • the aqueous composition of the invention contains the surfactants preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.8 to 3.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the aqueous composition.
  • the aqueous composition may additionally contain silicones.
  • Silicones which can be used according to the invention are preferably linear, cyclic or branched silicones selected from the types of cyclomethicones, dimethiconols, dimethicone copolyols, amodimethicones, trimethylsilylamodimethicones and phenyltrimethicones. These types of silicone are known to those skilled in the nomenclature of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) and in: MD Berthiaume, Society of the Cosmetic Chemists Monograph Series, "Silicones in Hair Care," Ed. LD Rhein, Ed .: Society of the Cosmetic Chemists, 1997, Chapter 2, to which reference is made at this point.
  • CTFA Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association
  • Polysiloxanes such as dialkyl and alkylaryl, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated analogs, hydroxyl-terminated analogs and quaternized analogs, and cyclic siloxanes.
  • the silicones with the INCI names dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, cyclomethicones, dimethiconol, quaternium-80 and amodimethicones and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • silicones examples include those of Dow Corning under the designations DC 190 (INCI name: PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone), DC 193 (INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone), DC 200, DC1401 (INCI name : Cyclomethicone, Dimethiconol) and DC 1403 (INCI name: Dimethicone, Dimethiconol) marketed products and the commercial products DC 244 (INCI name: Cyclomethicone), DC 344 (INCI name: Cyclomethicone) and DC 345 (INCI name: Cyclomethicone Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone, Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Ab
  • the silicones are preferably present in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous composition may additionally contain protein hydrolysates.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (RITA Corp.), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex ) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • a preferred protein hydrolyzate is the silk protein hydrolyzate (Promois ® Silk 720, Promois ® Silk 1000).
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin is possible, for. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • amino acids can be used both as free amino acid, as well as salts, eg. B. are used as hydrochlorides or the alkali, alkaline earth or ammonium salts.
  • arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid and their salts and oligopeptides or hydrolyzates which are rich in the abovementioned preferred amino acids.
  • asparagine and aspartic acid and their salts or hydrolysates are especially preferred.
  • ester oils or the aqueous composition according to the invention in particular for use during heat-assisted, permanent hair shaping - in particular at 80 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably at 120 ° C to 200 ° C.
  • a solid-in particular heated to 80 ° C. to 250 ° C., particularly preferably to 120 ° C. to 200 ° C.-as a heat source is brought into direct contact with the hair.
  • a heat source is brought into direct contact with the hair.
  • This is the case in particular when using corrugated iron or flat iron.
  • the use of at least one ester oil in a heat assisted hair straightening process has been found to be advantageous.
  • a third subject of the invention is a method for permanent hair shaping in which
  • an aqueous preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.
  • Winding aids such as Curlers or papillotes in the case of a perm, or aids for a mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron in case of hair straightening. If the shaping aids, for example winding aids, are attached to the fiber for a longer period of time by means of a permanent wave method, it is expedient to remove these deformation aids after step (iv). It may be advantageous in this connection to leave the deformation aids in the hair during step (iv), then to remove them and thereafter repeat step (iv) as so-called postfixing step (v).
  • the reaction time Z1 is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.
  • the reaction time Z2 is preferably 1-30 minutes, more preferably 5-20 minutes.
  • the keratin-containing fibers are moistened prior to step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water.
  • the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair back.
  • the preferred suitable embodiments of the aqueous composition according to step (ii) are those mentioned in the second subject of the invention (vide supra).
  • a heat source acts preferably a - in particular at 80 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably at 120 ° C to 200 ° C - heated solid is brought into direct contact with the hair. This is the case in particular when using corrugated iron or flat iron.
  • a strand of hair is wrapped around a suitably tempered, rounded body - e.g. a rod-shaped or tubular body - wound and after a residence time - in particular from 10 to 30 seconds - unwound again.
  • a dry keratin-containing fiber according to step (iii) of the method according to the invention is present when the hair residues adhering to the hair are removed so far that the hair fall individually.
  • a dry keratin fiber either the moisture content of the fiber is substantially in equilibrium with the humidity of the air, or the fiber absorbs moisture from the ambient air.
  • the drying in step (iii) is preferably carried out if between step (iii) and step (iv) a heat treatment during an additional smoothing step, e.g. with appropriately tempered plates takes place.
  • the fibers in step (iii) are subjected to a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 120-220 ° C.
  • a mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly hair along the longest spatial extent of the hair fiber.
  • the heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the hair preferably takes place at a temperature of 140-200 ° C.
  • the heat treatment can be done with hot air.
  • the hair is heated during the combing exactly at the point where the mechanical smoothing takes place.
  • the heat treatment in the manner of smoothing by means of appropriately tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates takes place, in which the plate is pressed onto the hair to be smoothed and moved to the hair pressed plate along the hair fiber becomes.
  • the plates may optionally be coated with heat resistant materials.
  • the hair fiber to be smoothed is pressed between two appropriately tempered plates and both plates are simultaneously moved along the longest spatial extent of the fiber.
  • both plates are connected to each other, so that both plates can be moved uniformly along the hair fiber.
  • the hair fiber is attached to one end (hair root).
  • the plates are in this case preferably moved evenly away from the hair root along the entire hair fiber. This movement causes a mechanical smoothing of the fiber.
  • a suitable device for heat treatment for example, the device “Ceramic Fiat-Master” (distributed by: Efalock, Germany).
  • the fibers between step (iii) and (iv) and / or in the context of a post-treatment at the end of the process according to the invention can be treated with a commercially available conditioner.
  • the oxidative fixation can be used as oxidizing agent z.
  • hydrogen peroxide and the usual for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations stabilizers may be included.
  • the pH of such aqueous H 2 0 2 preparations containing from about 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-% H 2 0 2, is preferably from 2 to 4; it is adjusted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid.
  • Other possible oxidizing agents are sodium and / or potassium bromate. Such bromates are used in concentrations of 1 to 10 wt .-% and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7.
  • auxiliaries and additives known for this purpose can be present in the aqueous preparation for carrying out the second stage of the hair-shaping method according to the invention.
  • Surfactants, quaternary ammonium salts, cationic polymers, perfumes and opacifiers can be present in the aqueous preparation for carrying out the second stage of the hair-shaping method according to the invention.
  • Both aqueous compositions of the method according to the invention may be formulated as a cream, gel or liquid. It may be preferred to formulate the preparations in the form of Schaumaerosolen that with a liquefied gas such. Propane-butane Mixtures, N 2 0, dimethyl ether, Fluororkubwasserstoffreibstoffn or mixtures thereof are filled in aerosol containers with foam valve.
  • compositions E1 and V1 of Table 1 were obtained by mixing the raw materials:
  • composition E1 is according to the invention, composition V1 is for comparison.
  • the hair treated with the composition E1 compared to the hair treated with the composition V1 had a softer feel and a better combability. The hair was less damaged. The wave result was very good in both cases.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'huile-ester pour soin capillaire pendant un processus de mise en forme permanente des cheveux (en particulier l'étape de réduction), un moyen pour ondulation capillaire correspondant, et un procédé de mise en forme permanente des cheveux.
EP10782245A 2009-12-04 2010-11-17 Utilisation d'huile-ester dans un procédé de mise en forme permanente des cheveux Withdrawn EP2506823A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102009047528A DE102009047528A1 (de) 2009-12-04 2009-12-04 Verwendung von Esteröl in Verfahren zur permanenten Haarumformung
PCT/EP2010/067620 WO2011067111A1 (fr) 2009-12-04 2010-11-17 Utilisation d'huile-ester dans un procédé de mise en forme permanente des cheveux

Publications (1)

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DE102011088254A1 (de) * 2011-12-12 2013-06-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarschonende Haarfärbe- und Dauerwellmittel
DE102011089573A1 (de) * 2011-12-22 2013-06-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verformungsmittel für keratinische Fasern und Haarverformungsverfahren
US20230233434A1 (en) * 2020-05-25 2023-07-27 Cali-Curl, LLC A no malodor hair perm formulation and method of use
WO2022020332A1 (fr) * 2020-07-21 2022-01-27 Chembeau LLC Formulations cosmétiques à base de diester et leurs utilisations

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EP2062615A2 (fr) * 2007-11-09 2009-05-27 L'Oreal Composition comprenant un dérivé de cellulose modifie, un ester d'acide gras et des colorants d'oxydation, procédé de teinture d'oxydation et utilisation.

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WO2011067111A1 (fr) 2011-06-09
DE102009047528A1 (de) 2011-06-09

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