EP1960573A1 - Process for the production of cashmere yarns - Google Patents

Process for the production of cashmere yarns

Info

Publication number
EP1960573A1
EP1960573A1 EP05802307A EP05802307A EP1960573A1 EP 1960573 A1 EP1960573 A1 EP 1960573A1 EP 05802307 A EP05802307 A EP 05802307A EP 05802307 A EP05802307 A EP 05802307A EP 1960573 A1 EP1960573 A1 EP 1960573A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibres
cashmere
tops
yarn
process according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP05802307A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1960573B1 (en
Inventor
Manrico Calzoni
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
MANRICO SpA
Original Assignee
MANRICO SpA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by MANRICO SpA filed Critical MANRICO SpA
Publication of EP1960573A1 publication Critical patent/EP1960573A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1960573B1 publication Critical patent/EP1960573B1/en
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G99/00—Subject matter not provided for in other groups of this subclass

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the processing of cashmere fibres to obtain cashmere yarns and cashmere or cashmere - mix textile products, characterised by high quality in terms of fineness (count) , mechanical properties and purity.
  • cashmere is a fibre obtained from a particular type of goat and, like all animal fibres, has physical properties directly affected by the collection period (by means of combing) , the breed and origin of the goats .
  • Cashmere processing includes opening, carding, combing, stretching, twisting, spinning, double winding, twining, conditioning and weaving.
  • Added to this chiefly mechanical processing are chiefly chemical steps such as dyeing and printing (using various types of dyes) or finishing (such as sanforising, teaseling, calendering, fulling, mercerising, starching, making crease-resistant, waterproofing) .
  • cashmere yarns are widely used in particular for the production of knitwear textile products.
  • the aim of the present invention is, therefore, to overcome these disadvantages by providing a process for the production of cashmere or cashmere - mix yarns and fabrics characterised by high level mechanical properties in terms of both durability when used and quality to the touch (softness, voluminosity) .
  • FIG. 1 is a complete block diagram of a process for the production of cashmere yarns and fabrics in accordance with the invention
  • - Figure 2 is a block diagram of the step of dyeing the fibres;
  • - Figure 3 is a block diagram of the step of finishing the fabric .
  • the fibres are selected according to criteria of greatest length, lowest micron category, and greatest quantity of cuticle scales per single fibre, to improve the mechanical properties of the finished yarn.
  • choosing the raw material involves making a selection to maximise and standardise the properties which can be achieved, including: length, fineness, cleanness, coefficient of variation, mean height and number of scales, cuticle width.
  • the rigorousness of the selection allows optimisation and standardisation of both the physical - mechanical and the chemical - physical properties of the fibres, which proved essential in order to produce the textile fibre (pure cashmere or silk blend) used to produce a yarn with a count of up to 200,000, having a high mean number of fibres per section, which thanks to the invention may even be 30 or more.
  • any impurities are removed from the cashmere fibres through a customary kemp removal process then it is combed to obtain slivers with aligned fibres, also known as "tops".
  • tops can be sent to a dye bath ( Figure 3) which advantageously is performed in controlled temperature and pressure conditions, and separately from the dyeing of any other fibres constituting the yarn, for example silk fibres.
  • the tops are in the form of bobbins, or bumps, protected from the dye bath by a protective layer, or bag with micro-holes in it, permeable to the dye bath, in which the bobbins are immersed to limit the assault on the fibres by the dyeing agents and additives and to prevent loss of the parallelism of the fibres.
  • the tops are washed and dried, the drying preferably being simultaneous with a straightening step.
  • specific products are also used for cleaning such as solvent soaps used to treat the material in advance, and the use of conditioners which precede the step of drying by means of straightener and drier, in order to relax and distribute the fibres again after the dyeing step.
  • the dried and washed tops can be spun to obtain a single yarn with cashmere fibre .
  • a single yarn may be produced, of pure cashmere or cashmere mixed with other fibres, for example 70% cashmere fibres and 30% silk fibres.
  • this first spinning step it is important to try to optimise and render uniform the mechanical and chemical - physical properties of the single yarn.
  • continuous monitoring and adjustment of the environmental conditions is essential for processing the material in ideal temperature and pressure conditions .
  • the spinning according to this invention may take place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure operating conditions.
  • the processing used according to the invention through a repetition of the various spinning production steps, for example on the combing machine, guarantee standardisation and greater uniformity of the twisted yarn, even at the expense of processing speed and productivity.
  • a step of weaving the yarns is performed which, according to the invention, takes place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure conditions, to improve the workability of the yarns and the end quality of the textile product.
  • the fabric obtained is further treated to improve the properties which the user can perceive, that is to say, the quality to the touch.
  • This processing ( Figure 2) is the finishing step in which, according to the invention, a process involving double decatising was set up.
  • the weaving step is followed by a first step of stabilising through intermittent decatising (KD) performed in a kier under controlled temperature and pressure conditions, to prepare the fabric for the subsequent finishing step, consisting of washing and ennobling.
  • KD intermittent decatising
  • a decatising wrapper able to allow fabric fixing, preserve the physical - mechanical properties and enhance the aesthetic characteristics such as the elegance, practicality, exclusivity and the "handle” (softness and voluminosity to the touch, that is to say, when felt between the area of the palm next to the thumb and the fingers on the hand) , as well as improving functional properties such as lightness and heat regulating capacity unique to cashmere.
  • Table 1 a table containing some properties characteristic of the yarn and the fabric obtained using the process disclosed, starting with a predetermined selected material and in predetermined environmental conditions .
  • the yarn and the fabric obtained in this way have excellent mechanical properties, which make them suitable for the production of superior products such as sheets, pillowcases and other items.
  • a process and a product according to the present invention may also have different applications and be modified without thereby departing from the scope of the inventive concept .

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Spinning Or Twisting Of Yarns (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

A process for the production of a yarn consisting completely or partly of cashmere fibres comprises the steps of selecting a quantity of fibres, removing the kemp from the selected fibres, combing to obtain slivers with aligned fibres, or "tops"; dyeing the tops protected from the dye bath by a protective layer or bag permeable to the dye bath, and processing the tops to obtain a single yarn made of cashmere fibre.

Description

Description
PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF CASHMERE YKRNS
Technical Field
The present invention relates to the processing of cashmere fibres to obtain cashmere yarns and cashmere or cashmere - mix textile products, characterised by high quality in terms of fineness (count) , mechanical properties and purity.
Background Art
As is known, cashmere is a fibre obtained from a particular type of goat and, like all animal fibres, has physical properties directly affected by the collection period (by means of combing) , the breed and origin of the goats .
It is also known that amongst natural textile fibres cashmere has different morphological - organoleptic properties (length, fineness, shine, handle) and physical - mechanical properties (hygroscopicity, thermal stability, combustion method, felting, insulation, toughness, resilience) which may be enhanced during processing, depending on the methods used.
Cashmere processing includes opening, carding, combing, stretching, twisting, spinning, double winding, twining, conditioning and weaving.
Added to this chiefly mechanical processing are chiefly chemical steps such as dyeing and printing (using various types of dyes) or finishing (such as sanforising, teaseling, calendering, fulling, mercerising, starching, making crease-resistant, waterproofing) .
At present, cashmere yarns are widely used in particular for the production of knitwear textile products.
However, the known processes for producing cashmere yarns have many limitations regarding the achievement of high levels of yarn fineness or count values, currently not generally higher than 100000, because with cashmere, more than with any other type of fibres, the conditions which first the fibres and then the semifinished products are in during all steps of processing, from selection of the raw material to finishing the fabric, affect and determine the end quality of the yarn and the fabric.
A consequence of the limits of the known types of processes is that, at present, there are no spinning processes available suitable for the production of cashmere textile products which require very high quality and fineness, for example, bed sheets. Another disadvantage is that the relatively low quality of cashmere or cashmere - mix fabrics currently available has traditionally relegated these fabrics to "winter" use, since it does not allow the best use to be made of some cashmere fibre qualities, such as heat regulation, which is a potential characteristic allowing universal use (also called "four seasons") with changes in outside climatic conditions.
Disclosure of the Invention
The aim of the present invention is, therefore, to overcome these disadvantages by providing a process for the production of cashmere or cashmere - mix yarns and fabrics characterised by high level mechanical properties in terms of both durability when used and quality to the touch (softness, voluminosity) .
According to the invention, this aim is achieved by a process as defined in the main claims herein.
Brief Description of the Drawings
Further advantages and innovative features of the invention are obtained with a process, a yarn and a textile product as defined in the secondary claims, and are more apparent in the detailed description which follows, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
- Figure 1 is a complete block diagram of a process for the production of cashmere yarns and fabrics in accordance with the invention;
- Figure 2 is a block diagram of the step of dyeing the fibres; - Figure 3 is a block diagram of the step of finishing the fabric .
Detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the invention According to the invention, in a process for the production of a cashmere yarn, there is a preliminary step of selecting fibres obtained using suitable recipes .
In particular, the fibres are selected according to criteria of greatest length, lowest micron category, and greatest quantity of cuticle scales per single fibre, to improve the mechanical properties of the finished yarn.
In more detail, choosing the raw material involves making a selection to maximise and standardise the properties which can be achieved, including: length, fineness, cleanness, coefficient of variation, mean height and number of scales, cuticle width.
Using the selection described above it is possible to begin the spinning process from an extremely regular sliver, so that narrowing or thickening can be prevented during spinning.
Moreover, the rigorousness of the selection allows optimisation and standardisation of both the physical - mechanical and the chemical - physical properties of the fibres, which proved essential in order to produce the textile fibre (pure cashmere or silk blend) used to produce a yarn with a count of up to 200,000, having a high mean number of fibres per section, which thanks to the invention may even be 30 or more.
Once selected, any impurities are removed from the cashmere fibres through a customary kemp removal process then it is combed to obtain slivers with aligned fibres, also known as "tops".
Once the tops have been obtained, they can be sent to a dye bath (Figure 3) which advantageously is performed in controlled temperature and pressure conditions, and separately from the dyeing of any other fibres constituting the yarn, for example silk fibres.
According to the invention, during dyeing the tops are in the form of bobbins, or bumps, protected from the dye bath by a protective layer, or bag with micro-holes in it, permeable to the dye bath, in which the bobbins are immersed to limit the assault on the fibres by the dyeing agents and additives and to prevent loss of the parallelism of the fibres.
After dyeing, the tops are washed and dried, the drying preferably being simultaneous with a straightening step. As illustrated in Figure 3, to standardise the chemical - physical properties in the dyeing process described above, specific products are also used for cleaning such as solvent soaps used to treat the material in advance, and the use of conditioners which precede the step of drying by means of straightener and drier, in order to relax and distribute the fibres again after the dyeing step.
When dyeing is complete, the dried and washed tops can be spun to obtain a single yarn with cashmere fibre .
In a preferred embodiment, a single yarn may be produced, of pure cashmere or cashmere mixed with other fibres, for example 70% cashmere fibres and 30% silk fibres.
In this first spinning step it is important to try to optimise and render uniform the mechanical and chemical - physical properties of the single yarn. In particular, for the former it was found that continuous monitoring and adjustment of the environmental conditions is essential for processing the material in ideal temperature and pressure conditions .
For this purpose, the spinning according to this invention may take place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure operating conditions.
According to the invention, during spinning of the fibres "ring" processing is used, adapted in the feed system to perform the yarn doubling and simultaneous twining processes. This avoids the use of the common double twist twisters on the market, which allow a high level of productivity, but which use high processing speeds, making the yarn cover long distances on the ring and so generating friction and resistance which increase the risks of the yarns breaking and/or having much more "nap" due to loss of fibre parallelism.
With the selected processing it is also possible to avoid the use of common doubling machines, which have feed systems with yarn extensions and processing corners creating resistance and friction that in turn creates a risk of breaks and loss of parallelism.
Advantageously, the processing used according to the invention, through a repetition of the various spinning production steps, for example on the combing machine, guarantee standardisation and greater uniformity of the twisted yarn, even at the expense of processing speed and productivity.
When spinning is complete, the next step of quality control or "yarn clearing" is carried out on the already twisted yarn with the result of having fewer processing actions (involving higher quality and fewer rejects) .
After the spinning step a step of weaving the yarns is performed which, according to the invention, takes place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure conditions, to improve the workability of the yarns and the end quality of the textile product.
After weaving, the fabric obtained is further treated to improve the properties which the user can perceive, that is to say, the quality to the touch.
This processing (Figure 2) is the finishing step in which, according to the invention, a process involving double decatising was set up.
For this purpose, the weaving step is followed by a first step of stabilising through intermittent decatising (KD) performed in a kier under controlled temperature and pressure conditions, to prepare the fabric for the subsequent finishing step, consisting of washing and ennobling.
Finally, after finishing the fabric is subjected to a second intermittent decatising step.
According to the invention during the finishing step it is also possible to use a decatising wrapper able to allow fabric fixing, preserve the physical - mechanical properties and enhance the aesthetic characteristics such as the elegance, practicality, exclusivity and the "handle" (softness and voluminosity to the touch, that is to say, when felt between the area of the palm next to the thumb and the fingers on the hand) , as well as improving functional properties such as lightness and heat regulating capacity unique to cashmere.
By way of example below is a table (Table 1) containing some properties characteristic of the yarn and the fabric obtained using the process disclosed, starting with a predetermined selected material and in predetermined environmental conditions .
As may be inferred from Table 1, the yarn and the fabric obtained in this way have excellent mechanical properties, which make them suitable for the production of superior products such as sheets, pillowcases and other items. However, it shall be understood that a process and a product according to the present invention may also have different applications and be modified without thereby departing from the scope of the inventive concept .
TABLE 1

Claims

Claims
1. A process for the production of a yarn consisting completely or partly of cashmere fibres, comprising the following steps:
- selection of a quantity of fibres selected according to the criteria of length, micron category and quantity of cuticle scales per single fibre;
- treatment for removal of kemp from the selected fibres;
- combing to obtain slivers with aligned fibres, or "tops";
- dyeing the tops in a dye bath, in which the tops are protected from the dye bath by a protective layer or bag permeable to the dye bath;
- washing the dyed tops;
- drying and simultaneously straightening the washed tops;
- weaving the dried and washed tops with continuous control and regulation of the temperature and humidity conditions, combing the tops to obtain a single cashmere yarn.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the weaving step comprises weaving of fibres of material other than cashmere to obtain a single cashmere - mix yarn.
3. The process according to claim 2 , wherein the step of dyeing the cashmere fibres is carried out separately from the dyeing of the fibres of other material.
4. The process according to any of the foregoing claims, comprising one or more steps of twining a number of single yarns, to obtain a twisted cashmere or cashmere - mix yarn.
5. The process for obtaining a textile product starting with at least a percentage of yarns produced according to any of the foregoing claims, comprising a step of weaving the twisted yarns, which takes place in a climatic chamber, under continuous control and regulation of temperature, humidity and pressure operating conditions, to improve the workability of the yarns.
6. The process according to claim 5, wherein the weaving step is followed by a first step of stabilising through intermittent decatising, a step of finishing by washing and ennobling, and a second step of stabilising through intermittent decatising.
7. The process according to claim 5, wherein at least one of the stabilising steps is carried out in controlled temperature and pressure conditions.
8. The process according to any of the claims from 5 to 7, wherein at least one of the stabilising steps is carried out while protecting the textile product with a layer, or wrapper, made from a fabric whose yarn has a higher count .
9. The process according to any of the claims from 5 to 8, wherein the finishing step is carried out by means of calendering at a controlled temperature.
10. A yarn produced with a process according to one or more of the claims from 1 to 4.
11. The yarn according to claim 10, comprising 70% cashmere fibres and 30% silk fibres.
12. A textile product obtained with a process according to one or more of the claims from 5 to 9.
EP05802307A 2005-10-24 2005-11-11 Process for the production of cashmere yarns Not-in-force EP1960573B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000638A ITBO20050638A1 (en) 2005-10-24 2005-10-24 PROCEDURE FOR THE PRODUCTION OF YARN AND TEXTILE PRODUCTS IN CACHEMIRE, YARN AND PRODUCTS SO OBTAINED
PCT/IB2005/003474 WO2007049094A1 (en) 2005-10-24 2005-11-11 Process for the production of cashmere yarns

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1960573A1 true EP1960573A1 (en) 2008-08-27
EP1960573B1 EP1960573B1 (en) 2010-09-15

Family

ID=35911052

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP05802307A Not-in-force EP1960573B1 (en) 2005-10-24 2005-11-11 Process for the production of cashmere yarns

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1960573B1 (en)
JP (1) JP2009512790A (en)
CN (1) CN101297069A (en)
AT (1) ATE481516T1 (en)
DE (1) DE602005023669D1 (en)
IT (1) ITBO20050638A1 (en)
WO (1) WO2007049094A1 (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US9359721B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2016-06-07 WestPoint Home LLC Soft feel printed fabric and method of producing same
KR101470580B1 (en) * 2014-01-22 2014-12-24 한국생산기술연구원 Apparatus and method for top dyeing of Kapok fiber sliver
CN104313875B (en) * 2014-09-29 2016-06-15 张家港市圣美隆羊绒制品有限公司 A kind of preparation method of cashmere yarn
CN106012143A (en) * 2016-08-03 2016-10-12 新疆天山纺织服装有限公司 Cashmere imitated tape yarn and production technology thereof
CN107022813B (en) * 2017-04-07 2019-02-15 金陵科技学院 A kind of transmission auxiliary splint carries out the silk spinning production line of comb silk floss
CN113818109A (en) * 2021-10-19 2021-12-21 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 Lint-free material, impurity removing method thereof and lint-free product

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US4128398A (en) 1974-03-18 1978-12-05 Diamond Shamrock Corporation Processing aid for use in worsted and woolen processes
JPH01260026A (en) * 1988-04-04 1989-10-17 Toray Ind Inc Production of animal hair-like synthetic fiber
DE3924208A1 (en) 1989-07-21 1991-01-24 Schubert & Salzer Maschinen METHOD FOR PRODUCING A THREAD FROM FIBER MATERIAL
KR920008960B1 (en) * 1990-08-24 1992-10-12 한얼앙고라모직 주식회사 Producing method of angora-wool yarn
ES2173161T3 (en) * 1994-11-08 2002-10-16 Ciba Sc Holding Ag PROCEDURE FOR DYING WOOL FIBER MATERIALS.
AUPO522997A0 (en) 1997-02-21 1997-04-11 Jindalee Fibre Developments Pty Ltd Fibre processing
AUPO926797A0 (en) 1997-09-17 1997-10-09 Commonwealth Scientific And Industrial Research Organisation Improved backwashing, especially for high sliver delivery speeds
JP2000045183A (en) * 1998-07-27 2000-02-15 Esupo Kk Deodorant agent for fiber treatment and deodorant fiber

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See references of WO2007049094A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITBO20050638A1 (en) 2007-04-25
EP1960573B1 (en) 2010-09-15
CN101297069A (en) 2008-10-29
ATE481516T1 (en) 2010-10-15
JP2009512790A (en) 2009-03-26
DE602005023669D1 (en) 2010-10-28
WO2007049094A1 (en) 2007-05-03

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