CN101297069A - Process for the production of cashmere yarns - Google Patents

Process for the production of cashmere yarns Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101297069A
CN101297069A CNA2005800519154A CN200580051915A CN101297069A CN 101297069 A CN101297069 A CN 101297069A CN A2005800519154 A CNA2005800519154 A CN A2005800519154A CN 200580051915 A CN200580051915 A CN 200580051915A CN 101297069 A CN101297069 A CN 101297069A
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China
Prior art keywords
yarn
fiber
cashmere
technology
carried out
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CNA2005800519154A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
M·卡尔佐尼
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Manrico S P A
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Manrico S P A
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G99/00Subject matter not provided for in other groups of this subclass

Abstract

A process for the production of a yarn consisting completely or partly of cashmere fibres comprises the steps of selecting a quantity of fibres, removing the kemp from the selected fibres, combing to obtain slivers with aligned fibres, or 'tops'; dyeing the tops protected from the dye bath by a protective layer or bag permeable to the dye bath, and processing the tops to obtain a single yarn made of cashmere fibre.

Description

The manufacturing technique of cashmere yarn
Technical field
The processing that the present invention relates to cashmere fiber is to obtain cashmere yarn and cashmere or cashmere-hybrid fabric product, and these products show at fineness (yarn count), mechanical property and purity aspect high-quality.
Background technology
As everyone knows, cashmere is a kind of fiber that obtains from the goat of special type, and it has by the physical characteristic of breeding of collection period (dependence carding), goat and the direct influence of blood lineage as all animal fibers.
Be known that equally cashmere has different form-organoleptic attributes (such as length in the natural fabric fiber, fineness, gloss, feel), and in processing, physics-mechanical property (hygroscopicity, heat resistance, firing method that the method that dependence is adopted can be strengthened, felting, insulating properties, roughness, elasticity).
Cashmere processing comprises shredding, careless, combing, extends, frustrates sth. made by twisting, yarn, doubling, twists thread, dewing and weaving.
The main chemical step that increases on above-mentioned main mechanical treatment processing is such as printing and dyeing (using multiple dyestuff) or arrangement (such as sanforized, make napping, calendering, fulling milling, mercerising processing, starching, crease-resistant processing, WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT).
At present, cashmere yarn is widely used in the manufacturing of knitwear fabric product especially.
Yet the technology of known manufacturing cashmere yarn has many restrictions about the high level that is reached on fineness of yarn or yarn count value, it is not higher than 100000 at present usually, because compare with the fiber of other any kinds, at first the situation of half-finished product is through from selecting raw material to the process of finishing all processings of fabric then for fiber, and cashmere influences and determining the final quality of yarn and fabric more.
The circumscribed consequence of the treatment process of known type is, not having available spinning process to be suitable at present need very high-quality and fineness, such as the manufacturing of the fleece fabrics product of bed sheet.
The another one shortcoming is that the low relatively quality of present available cashmere or cashmere-mixed goods has been included into these fabrics to " winter " traditionally and uses, because it does not allow some cashmere fiber qualities are carried out best utilization such as thermal conditioning, described thermal conditioning is a kind of potential characteristic that allows generally to use (being called " four seasons " equally) along with extraneous climate condition change.
Summary of the invention
Therefore the objective of the invention is to overcome above-mentioned defective by the manufacturing technique that a kind of cashmere or cashmere-blended yarns product and fabric are provided.The said goods shows durability in use and the high-caliber mechanical property in quality (flexibility, voluminosity) two aspects when touching.
According to the present invention, above-mentioned purpose reaches by the technology that main claim limits.
Description of drawings
The feature of further advantage of the present invention and innovation obtains by technology, yarn and the fabric product that limits in less important claim, and clearer by the detailed description of carrying out with reference to the following drawings, wherein:
Accompanying drawing 1 is the complete block diagram according to the manufacturing technique of cashmere yarn of the present invention and fabric;
Accompanying drawing 2 is the block diagram of step that fiber is dyeed;
The step block diagram that 3 pairs of fabrics of accompanying drawing are put in order.
The specific embodiment
According to the present invention, in the manufacturing technique of cashmere yarn, has the preliminary step that adopts suitable prescription that the fiber that obtains is selected.
Especially, fiber is selected, improved the mechanical property of the yarn after making with this according to the standard of the maximum of the maximum length of each single fiber, minimum micron level and epidermis scale (cuticle scales).
In more detail, select raw material to comprise to select with maximization and standardization the characteristic that can reach, comprise the average height of length, fineness, cleannes, variation coefficient, scale and quantity, epidermis width.
Use aforesaid system of selection, can in spinning process, prevent to narrow down or thickening with this since extremely regular this spinning process of sliver.
In addition, but the strict selection optimization and the physics-mechanical property and the chemistry-physical characteristic of these fibers of standardization, they have proved that be necessary in order to make this fabric fibre (pure cashmere or silk blended fiber) to be used to produce the yarn that reaches 200000 numbers, average each tangent plane of this yarn has the fiber of high par, and it is owing to the present invention even can reach 30 or more.
In case after selecting, remove technology by the common and braid wool of convention impurity removed from cashmere fiber, then it is carried out combing to obtain having fiber arranged bar, be also referred to as " wool top ".
In case obtained wool top, they can be sent to the dye bath of advantageously carrying out under in check temperature and pressure condition, and isomorphism any other fibers of becoming yarn are separated such as the dyeing of silk fiber.
According to the present invention; in dyeing course; be subjected to the permeable protective layer of dye bath with bobbin or flat form by wool top around volume (bumps); the protection of sack that perhaps wherein has minute aperture is in case be subjected to the infringement of dye bath; its middle bobbin immerses to the dye bath with restriction coloring agent and the injury of additive on fiber, and prevents the loss of the depth of parallelism of fiber.
After the dyeing, wool top is cleaned and is dry, and preferably dry and straightening step is carried out simultaneously.
As shown in Figure 3, for standardization chemistry-physical characteristic in aforesaid dyeing course, also use special product to be used for cleaning, anticipate material such as adopting solvent-borne type soap, and, before drying steps, use the adjuster that relies on straightener and drying equipment in order behind staining procedure, to loosen once more and to distribute fiber.
After dyeing was finished, wool top dry and that cleaned can be by spinning to obtain to have the single yarn of cashmere fiber.
In a preferred embodiment, a single yarn can be made by pure cashmere or with the cashmere of other mixed with fibers, such as 70% cashmere fiber and 30% silk fiber.
In this first spinning step, importantly manage to make the machinery and the chemistry-physical characteristic optimization and the homogenization of single yarn.
Especially, for the shaping combing machine for fur, have been found that: continuous monitoring and adjusting to the environmental condition situation are essential for handle material under desirable temperature and pressure condition.
For this purpose, can under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure operation condition, in the air conditioning chamber, carry out according to spinning of the present invention.
According to the present invention, in the spinning process of fiber, adopt " ring ingot " technology, be adapted at carrying out in the feed system yarn doubling and handle and simultaneous twisting technique.
Can avoid using commercially available common double-twist twisting machine like this, it allows high-caliber productivity ratio, but it uses high processing rate, make yarn on the ring ingot, cover longer distance, therefore and causing friction and resistance, it is because the danger that fibre orientation loss has increased yarn breakage and/or had more " hair knots ".
Adopt selected technology also may avoid using common doubling frame, described doubling frame has the feed system of yarn drawing-off, and has the technology corner that causes resistance and friction, causes that thus the loss of the fracture and the depth of parallelism is dangerous.
Valuably, the technology according to invention is used such as on carding machine, by repeating of difference spinning manufacturing step, even under the situation of loss processing speed and productivity ratio, also can guarantee to twist with the fingers the standardization and the bigger uniformity of back yarn.
After spinning was finished, following quality control step or " yarn cleaning " were implemented on the yarn of having twisted with the fingers, and consequently had less process acts (producing higher quality and less scrapping).
After the spinning step, carry out the step of weaving of yarn, carry out in the air conditioning chamber of this step under in check temperature, humidity and pressure condition, improve the machinability of yarn and the final quality of fabric product with this according to the present invention.
Behind weaving process, resulting fabric is further handled to improve the quality that the user can discover, and promptly touches quality.
This treatment process steps (accompanying drawing 2) is the finishing technique step, wherein proposes the technology that comprises that double flow steams according to the present invention.
For this reason, this is the first decatize processing step after knitting the yarn step, carry out in its decatize (KD) kier under controlled temperature and pressure condition by intermittence, making fabric is that ensuing arrangement step is prepared, and described arrangement step comprises cleans and the raising quality.
At last after fabric is put in order, be the second decatize processing step intermittently.
According to the present invention, in the finishing technique step, might use decatize infantees (wrapper) equally, it can allow fabric to fix, keeping this physical-chemical characteristic (that is to say such as elegance, practicality, proprietary aesthetic properties and " feel " with strengthening, when between near the palm area of thumb and finger on hand, experiencing, flexibility when stroking and voluminosity), and improvement is such as the functional character of brightness and the distinctive thermal conditioning capacity of cashmere.
As an example, following form (table 1) comprises and uses the disclosed yarn that technology obtained and some nature and characteristics of fabric that this technology begins with previously selected material with under predetermined environmental condition.
As what can infer from table 1, the yarn and the fabric that obtain by this method have fabulous engineering properties, and these character make them be suitable for making first-class product such as sheet, pillowcase and other article.Yet, should be understood that technology according to the present invention has different application equally with product, and conceive under the situation of scope and can be modified not breaking away from the present invention.
Table 1
Material Length Width
The cashmere wool top >48.0 <15.00μm
Environmental condition Scope
Humidity 65-75
Temperature 20-25
Pressure Constant
Figure A20058005191500081
Figure A20058005191500091
Claims (according to the modification of the 19th of treaty)
1. the manufacturing technique of a yarn that is made of cashmere fiber wholly or in part comprises the steps:
Fiber according to the Standard Selection some of length, micron level and the epidermis scale quantity of each single fiber;
Fiber after selecting carries out common and braid wool removal processing;
Fiber after handling is carried out combing to obtain to have fiber arranged wool top;
In dye bath wool top is dyeed, wherein this wool top is avoided the dye bath infringement by the protective layer that can be permeated by dye bath or the protection of bag;
Clean the wool top after dyeing;
The wool top dry and the while straightening washes;
Described wool top is carried out combing;
Under the temperature and humidity condition being carried out continuous control and regulating, to wool top dry and that the cleaned processing of spinning, to obtain single cashmere yarn.
2. technology according to claim 1, wherein, described spinning step comprises the spinning of the fiber except that the cashmere material and handles to obtain single cashmere-blended yarns.
3. technology according to claim 2, wherein, the dyeing of the staining procedure of cashmere fiber and other materials fiber separates to be carried out.
4. according to the described technology of aforementioned each claim, comprise the step that one or more is twisted thread and handle many single yarn, cashmere or cashmere-blended yarns after twisting with the fingers with acquisition.
5. begin with the yarn that produces according to aforementioned each claim of certain percentage at least, obtain the technology of fabric product, comprise twisting with the fingers the step of weaving of back yarn, the described step of weaving is carried out in the continuous control of temperature, humidity and pressure operation condition with in the air conditioning chamber under regulating, and improves the machinability of yarn with this.
6. technology according to claim 5, wherein, weave after the step for by intermittence decatize carry out stable first step, one by cleaning and improve the arrangement step of quality, and one by intermittence decatize carry out the second stable step.
7. technology according to claim 5, wherein, at least one described stabilizing step is carried out under controlled temperature and pressure condition.
8. according to each described technology in the claim 5 to 7, wherein, at least one described stabilizing step is carried out in the following cases, promptly utilizes its yarn to have than the textile tissue layer or the infantees of high-count and protects fabric product.
9. according to each described technology in the claim 5 to 8, wherein, the arrangement step is carried out under controlled temperature by the mode of calendering.
10. the yarn of making according in the claim 1 to 4 or multinomial described technology.
11. yarn according to claim 10 comprises 70% cashmere fiber and 30% silk fiber.
12. the fabric product that obtains according in the claim 5 to 9 or multinomial described technology.

Claims (12)

1, a kind of manufacturing technique of the yarn that is made of cashmere fiber wholly or in part comprises the steps:
Fiber according to the Standard Selection some of length, micron level and the epidermis scale quantity of each single fiber;
Fiber after selecting carries out common and braid wool removal processing;
Combing is to obtain fiber arranged bar, perhaps " wool top ";
In dye bath wool top is dyeed, wherein this wool top is avoided the dye bath infringement by the protective layer that can be permeated by dye bath or the protection of bag;
Clean the wool top after dyeing;
The wool top dry and the while straightening washes;
Under the temperature and humidity condition being carried out continuous control and regulating, wool top dry and that cleaned is weaved, wool top is carried out combing to obtain single cashmere yarn.
2. technology according to claim 1, wherein, the described step of weaving comprises weaving to obtain single cashmere-blended yarns of fiber except that the cashmere material.
3. technology according to claim 2, wherein, the dyeing of the staining procedure of cashmere fiber and other materials fiber separates to be carried out.
4. according to the described technology of aforementioned each claim, comprise the step that one or more is twisted thread and handle many single yarn, cashmere or cashmere-blended yarns after twisting with the fingers with acquisition.
5. begin with the yarn that produces according to aforementioned each claim of certain percentage at least, obtain the technology of fabric product, comprise twisting with the fingers the step of weaving of back yarn, the described step of weaving is carried out in the continuous control of temperature, humidity and pressure operation condition with in the air conditioning chamber under regulating, and improves the machinability of yarn with this.
6. technology according to claim 5, wherein, weave after the step for by intermittence decatize carry out stable first step, one by cleaning and improve the arrangement step of quality, and one by intermittence decatize carry out the second stable step.
7. technology according to claim 5, wherein, at least one described stabilizing step is carried out under controlled temperature and pressure condition.
8. according to each described technology in the claim 5 to 7, wherein, at least one described stabilizing step is carried out in the following cases, promptly utilizes its yarn to have than the textile tissue layer or the infantees of high-count and protects fabric product.
9. according to each described technology in the claim 5 to 8, wherein, the arrangement step is carried out under controlled temperature by the mode of calendering.
10. the yarn of making according in the claim 1 to 4 or multinomial described technology.
11. yarn according to claim 10 comprises 70% cashmere fiber and 30% silk fiber.
12. the fabric product that obtains according in the claim 5 to 9 or multinomial described technology.
CNA2005800519154A 2005-10-24 2005-11-11 Process for the production of cashmere yarns Pending CN101297069A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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IT000638A ITBO20050638A1 (en) 2005-10-24 2005-10-24 PROCEDURE FOR THE PRODUCTION OF YARN AND TEXTILE PRODUCTS IN CACHEMIRE, YARN AND PRODUCTS SO OBTAINED
ITBO2005A000638 2005-10-24

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EP (1) EP1960573B1 (en)
JP (1) JP2009512790A (en)
CN (1) CN101297069A (en)
AT (1) ATE481516T1 (en)
DE (1) DE602005023669D1 (en)
IT (1) ITBO20050638A1 (en)
WO (1) WO2007049094A1 (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104313875A (en) * 2014-09-29 2015-01-28 张家港市圣美隆羊绒制品有限公司 Method for preparing cashmere yarn
CN106012143A (en) * 2016-08-03 2016-10-12 新疆天山纺织服装有限公司 Cashmere imitated tape yarn and production technology thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US9359721B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2016-06-07 WestPoint Home LLC Soft feel printed fabric and method of producing same
KR101470580B1 (en) * 2014-01-22 2014-12-24 한국생산기술연구원 Apparatus and method for top dyeing of Kapok fiber sliver
CN107022813B (en) * 2017-04-07 2019-02-15 金陵科技学院 A kind of transmission auxiliary splint carries out the silk spinning production line of comb silk floss
CN113818109A (en) * 2021-10-19 2021-12-21 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 Lint-free material, impurity removing method thereof and lint-free product

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US4128398A (en) 1974-03-18 1978-12-05 Diamond Shamrock Corporation Processing aid for use in worsted and woolen processes
JPH01260026A (en) * 1988-04-04 1989-10-17 Toray Ind Inc Production of animal hair-like synthetic fiber
DE3924208C2 (en) 1989-07-21 1993-09-23 Rieter Ingolstadt Spinnereimaschinenbau Ag, 85055 Ingolstadt, De
KR920008960B1 (en) * 1990-08-24 1992-10-12 한얼앙고라모직 주식회사 Producing method of angora-wool yarn
ES2173161T3 (en) * 1994-11-08 2002-10-16 Ciba Sc Holding Ag PROCEDURE FOR DYING WOOL FIBER MATERIALS.
AUPO522997A0 (en) 1997-02-21 1997-04-11 Jindalee Fibre Developments Pty Ltd Fibre processing
AUPO926797A0 (en) 1997-09-17 1997-10-09 Commonwealth Scientific And Industrial Research Organisation Improved backwashing, especially for high sliver delivery speeds
JP2000045183A (en) * 1998-07-27 2000-02-15 Esupo Kk Deodorant agent for fiber treatment and deodorant fiber

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104313875A (en) * 2014-09-29 2015-01-28 张家港市圣美隆羊绒制品有限公司 Method for preparing cashmere yarn
CN106012143A (en) * 2016-08-03 2016-10-12 新疆天山纺织服装有限公司 Cashmere imitated tape yarn and production technology thereof

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ATE481516T1 (en) 2010-10-15
WO2007049094A1 (en) 2007-05-03
EP1960573A1 (en) 2008-08-27
EP1960573B1 (en) 2010-09-15
DE602005023669D1 (en) 2010-10-28
ITBO20050638A1 (en) 2007-04-25
JP2009512790A (en) 2009-03-26

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Application publication date: 20081029