CN108456964B - Hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn and application thereof - Google Patents
Hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN108456964B CN108456964B CN201810213911.0A CN201810213911A CN108456964B CN 108456964 B CN108456964 B CN 108456964B CN 201810213911 A CN201810213911 A CN 201810213911A CN 108456964 B CN108456964 B CN 108456964B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic System
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
Abstract
The invention discloses hemp viscose vortex spun yarn and application thereof, wherein the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn comprises 30-70% of hemp fibers and 30-70% of viscose fibers in percentage by mass. The hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric produced by adopting the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn comprises the following steps: the fabric weave is a single-side flat needle, and is transverse dense: (30-35)/10 cm; longitudinal density: (20-25)/10 cm, needle number: 7G, knitting on a computerized flat knitting machine, wherein the yarn: by using 11SStrand,/4 grammage: 290-300 g/m. The hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn disclosed by the invention is spun by air-jet vortex spinning, and is short in process, environment-friendly and energy-saving; during weaving, the wax adding amount of the yarn is increased, dynamic tension control is adopted, and the overall tension is properly reduced.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textile fabrics, in particular to hemp viscose vortex spun yarn and application thereof.
Background
At present, the competitive focus of the international textile market is to create a new popular design and popularize high-grade and high-grade open-end spinning fabrics, the traditional open-end spinning equipment adopts air flow to finish conveying and twisting fibers, the process flow is short, the structure is simple, the yield is high, but the process is gradually eliminated due to the reasons of raw material adaptability and the like. Subsequently, countries such as Ride develop novel vortex spinning equipment one after another, the aspects such as drafting system, spinning suitability fiber, output, quality, degree of automation and on-line detection are further improved, when spinning polyester/cotton and pure chemical fiber, the product adaptability is better, and the competitive advantage is obvious in the similar spinning equipment. The rapid development of the vortex spinning equipment requires the development of a spinning processing technology corresponding to the vortex spinning equipment, increases the product adaptability of the spinning equipment, and plays a positive promoting role in the improvement of the spinning technology and the further development of the spinning equipment.
The varieties with THC (tetrahydrocannabinol) below 0.3% are internationally referred to as industrial cannabis, and the varieties with THC above 0.3% are referred to as medicinal cannabis and narcotics cannabis. In recent times, the application of hemp fibers has entered the fading period for special reasons, and until the cultivation and research work of nontoxic and low-toxic hemp varieties has been achieved in the 90 s of the 20 th century, people have had new insights on their application in the textile field. In China, the department of general logistics beginning in 2003 is a product research project cooperating with the institute of equipment and government of Yunnan province, the improvement and breeding of Hemp are completed, a new variety which retains the excellent characteristics of Hemp fiber and does not have the characteristics of extracting drugs at all is obtained, and the new variety is endowed with a brand-new name with Chinese charm, namely 'China Hemp', and the English name is China Hemp.
The hemp fiber is a natural cellulose fiber, has the excellent characteristics of natural bacteriostasis, moisture absorption and ventilation, static resistance, ultraviolet radiation resistance and the like, and has good environmental protection and sanitation properties. However, hemp single fibers are too short, generally 12-24 mm, and the single fiber state is difficult to be directly applied to spinning. Textile enterprises often adopt 'technical fibers' to form yarns in order to ensure the spinning effect and the yarn forming quality of hemp fibers. Hemp "technical fibers" are fiber bundles formed by the bonding of a plurality of individual fibers, which still contain about 20% of the individual fibers, and a larger number of the bonded hemp fibers are relatively coarse and stiff. With the intensive research and technical attack of scholars in the related fields in recent years, the application of the hemp primary processing technology realizes the change of the hemp fiber from coarse and hard to fine and achieves breakthrough progress in controlling the length of the hemp fiber, the hemp primary processing technology is initially suitable for the requirements of spinning processes, but a far distance exists from the high-grade hemp products.
Along with the continuous improvement of the spinning range and count of the vortex spinning, the development of novel vortex spinning yarns for producing the fabric conforms to the development of the current garment fabric towards the directions of comfort, leisure, beauty, functionality, safety and returning to nature. Aiming at the current situations that hemp yarn has poor spinnability and poor yarn quality and is difficult to meet the market requirement in the prior art, an environment-friendly, health-care and fashionable hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric is urgently needed.
Disclosure of Invention
A first object of the present invention is to provide a hemp viscose vortex spun yarn.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn.
The invention further aims to provide the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric produced by adopting the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn and the preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:
the invention provides hemp viscose vortex spun yarn which comprises 30-70% of hemp fibers and 30-70% of viscose fibers in percentage by mass.
The hemp viscose vortex spun yarn comprises 55 mass percent of hemp fibers and 45 mass percent of viscose fibers.
The hemp fiber has an effective length of more than 34mm, an average linear density of 0.32-0.34 tex, a breaking strength of more than 7.6cN/tex and an elongation of 7.6%.
The short fiber length of the viscose fiber is 38mm, the single fiber strength is 5.62cN/dtex, and the elongation is 20.31%.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn, which comprises the following steps:
the hemp fiber is uniformly mixed with the viscose fiber after pretreatment, and the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn is obtained by sequentially carrying out opening picking, cotton carding, combing, three-pass doubling and drawing processes and spinning.
The pretreatment of the hemp fibers means that the hemp fibers are subjected to moisture conditioning treatment.
The humidifying treatment is to add a soft hemp oil solution before test spinning for sealing so that the actual moisture regain of the hemp fiber reaches 12-16%.
The main technological parameters of the opening and picking process are set as follows: the comprehensive beater speed is 700r/min, the fan rotating speed is 1200r/min, the lap roller rotating speed is 10r/min, and the beater and balance roller gauge is 12 mm.
The main technological parameters of the cotton carding process are as follows: the raw sliver ration is 50g/10 m; the cylinder speed is 323 r/min; the speed of the licker-in is 680 r/min; the cover plate speed is 132 mm/min; the doffer speed is 15 r/min; the spacing between the cotton feeding plate and the licker-in is 0.3 mm; the cylinder-to-doffer gauge is 0.12 mm; the distance between the small bottom leakage inlets is enlarged to be 19 mm.
The main process parameters of the three merging and drawing processes are set as follows: the drafting multiple of the head-rear area is controlled to be 2.0;
the main process parameters of the head combination are set as follows: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 21g/5m, 6 pieces of slivers are used for doubling, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 2.1, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min;
the main process parameters of the second combination are set as follows: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 21g/5m, 8 pieces of slivers are adopted for combination, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 1.95, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min;
the main process parameters of the third step are set as follows: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 20.6g/5m, 8 pieces of slivers are adopted for combination, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 1.3, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min.
The spinning process parameters are set as follows: the vortex air pressure is 0.45-0.5 MPa, the spinning speed is 380-420 m/min, the coiling ratio is 1.1-1.3, and the length of the yarn guide needle is 1.5-2 mm; the optimal horizontal combination is that the vortex air pressure is 0.5MPa, the spinning speed is 380m/min, the coiling ratio is 1.3, and the length of a yarn guide needle is 1.5 mm.
The invention also provides a hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric produced by adopting the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn, which adopts the fabric tissue as a single-side flat needle, and has the following transverse density: (30-35)/10 cm; longitudinal density: (20-25)/10 cm, needle number: 7G, knitting on a computerized flat knitting machine, wherein the yarn: by using 11SStrand,/4 grammage: 290-300 g/m.
Preferably, the hemp viscose vortex is adoptedThe hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric produced by the flow spinning yarn adopts the fabric tissue as a single-side flat needle, and is flat and dense: 32/10 cm; longitudinal density: 22.3/10cm, needle number: 7G, knitting on a computerized flat knitting machine, wherein the yarn: by using 11SStrand,/4 grammage: 296 grams per square meter.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric produced by adopting the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn, which comprises the following steps:
the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn sequentially passes through doubling, rewinding, weaving, looping, flat turning, hand sewing, washing, drying, ironing, packaging and warehousing to obtain the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric.
The yarns in the fabric sheet need to be lubricated and waxed.
The hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric needs to be subjected to softening finishing, and preferably, the specific parameters of the softening finishing are as follows: the mass fraction of the pectinase is 2.2 percent, the mass fraction of the sodium hydroxide is 4.5 percent, the temperature is 41 ℃, and the pH value is 7.1-8.6.
Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial effects:
the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn disclosed by the invention is spun by air-jet vortex spinning, and is short in process, environment-friendly and energy-saving; during weaving, the wax adding amount of the yarn is increased, dynamic tension control is adopted, and the overall tension is properly reduced.
The hemp viscose vortex spun yarn provided by the invention has the advantages that the raw materials are subjected to humidifying treatment in a pre-humidifying mode, the hemp fibers are subjected to softening agent health preserving treatment, the moisture regain is increased to more than 15%, the blending proportion of hemp in the yarn is increased, and meanwhile, the strength uniformity and evenness of the finished yarn are ensured; when the raw materials are selected, viscose staple yarns with longer lengths are selected for blending, and the pre-spinning process pays attention to less beating and more combing; in the spinning process, main spinning technological parameters are optimized and selected, so that the yarn quality of the hemp fiber is guaranteed, and the problems that hemp fibers are high in rigidity and poor in fiber uniformity, short hemp is not twisted in place by airflow during spinning, cohesion is poor, yarn defects are easy to generate, strength is weak and the like are solved.
The vortex spinning process and the flat knitting machine knitting process suitable for processing the hemp viscose knitted fabric are obtained by repeatedly adjusting the spinning process and the knitting process parameters and testing the product.
The hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric improves the current production situation of poor spinnability and poor yarn quality of hemp, increases hemp vortex yarns and fabric varieties thereof, adopts a new vortex spinning process, develops a novel knitted fabric which takes performance advantages of hemp and viscose into consideration, and improves product differentiation and functionalization.
The hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric is developed by adjusting the vortex spinning process, is suitable for the hemp viscose spinning process, has important significance for improving the product adaptability of vortex spinning, and has more positive significance for the popularization of the new technology of the multi-component air injection vortex spinning process.
According to the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric, the hemp viscose is subjected to strip mixing on cotton spinning equipment for strip spinning, the spinning adopts an efficient short-flow air-jet vortex spinning process, the knitted fabric is developed on the basis, the quality level of the product meets the requirements of FZ/T73010-. The fabric has the characteristics of rough and plain hemp, natural bacteriostasis and the like, has the advantages of moisture absorption, quick drying, good wear resistance, pilling resistance and the like, is suitable for being taken in summer, and can be expected to have wide market prospect.
Detailed Description
In order to more clearly illustrate the invention, the invention is further described below in connection with preferred embodiments. It is to be understood by persons skilled in the art that the following detailed description is illustrative and not restrictive, and is not to be taken as limiting the scope of the invention.
Example 1
A preparation method of hemp viscose vortex spun yarn comprises the following steps:
the hemp fiber is subjected to humidity adjustment treatment, the viscose fiber is uniformly mixed in A Telitz Schlier steel-clearing combined BO-A bale plucker and A MX-U6 multi-bin cotton mixer, and the hemp fiber is subjected to cotton-clearing by A CL-C1 cotton-clearing machine, cotton-carding by A TC-5 cotton carding machine, combing by an FA288 combing machine, A three-channel doubling and drawing process (comprising an FA320A-G60 first-channel drawing frame, A TD 8 second-channel drawing frame and an FA322 drawing frame which are self-regulated) and MVS.NO.870 type vortex spinning to obtain the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn.
Selecting and pretreating raw materials: in order to make a trial spinning, raw materials with better performance are selected: the fiber fineness is 0.35tex, the average fiber length is 35mm, the average linear density is 0.32-0.34 tex, the breaking strength is greater than 7.6cN/tex, the elongation is 7.6%, and the ultra-long fibers account for 21%; the hard strip rate is 0.1 percent, and the hemp grain is 42 grains/g; the moisture regain was 6.7%. Adding a softening hemp oil agent before test spinning for sealing, and actually measuring that the moisture regain of the hemp fiber is 14.2%. The hemp fiber is spun in a wet state, which is favorable for improving the strength of the fiber and reducing the electrostatic phenomenon in the processing process. The viscose is made up by using natural cellulose as raw material, making it into soluble cellulose xanthate through the processes of alkalization, ageing and yellowing, etc., then dissolving it in dilute alkali liquor to obtain viscose and making it undergo the process of wet spinning, and its short fibre regularity can be produced according to actual requirements. Because the hemp fiber contains a plurality of ultra-long fibers, the uniformity is poor, the spinnability is poor, the strength and the yield are low, the viscose staple fiber with longer length is selected to improve the strength and the hand feeling of blending, and the length of the staple fiber is 38 mm.
Hemp pretreatment: the hemp fiber is bundle fiber which is prepared by degumming raw hemp and carding refined dry hemp, and has a ditch-shaped cavity and porous walls inside and contains antifungal and antibacterial substances such as pyrimidine, purine and the like; because hemp fibers contain a large amount of hemp grains, are high in rigidity, relatively brittle and hard, have no natural crimp, and are poor in fiber cohesion and length uniformity, in order to improve spinnability, moisture conditioning treatment is performed before spinning, namely, a hemp softening oil is added before spinning for sealing, so that the actual moisture regain of the hemp fibers reaches 12% -16%.
Opening and picking: the hemp fiber has the characteristics of poor length uniformity, high rigidity, brittleness, hardness, easy breakage, poor cohesion and high short fiber rate, the beating speed of the cotton opener is mainly controlled in the opening and picking process, and the process principle of more loosening, more combing, less beating, less damage and less dropping is adopted. The main technological parameters are as follows: the comprehensive beater speed is 700r/min, the fan rotating speed is 1200r/min, the lap roller rotating speed is 10r/min, and the beater and balance roller gauge is 12 mm.
Cotton carding process: because the hemp fiber contains super-long fiber and has thick fineness; therefore, the arrangement of the carding element speed is to reduce the damage to the fiber and prevent the increase of the short fiber and the neps on the basis of the sufficient carding. The arrangement of the cylinder, the licker-in and the doffer speed aims at achieving the purpose of smooth transfer of fibers, and cotton carding adopts the process principle of 'heavy quantification, low speed, slow transfer and less noil'. The high temperature and high humidity of the workshop are required, the temperature of the workshop is controlled to be more than 26 ℃, and the relative humidity RH is more than 60 percent. The technological parameters of the hemp fiber carding are as follows: the raw sliver ration is 50g/10 m; the cylinder speed is 323 r/min; the speed of the licker-in is 680 r/min; the cover plate speed is 132 mm/min; the doffer speed is 15 r/min; the spacing between the cotton feeding plate and the licker-in is 0.3 mm; the cylinder-to-doffer gauge is 0.12 mm; the distance between the small bottom leakage inlets is enlarged to be 19 mm.
Combing procedure: the combing process further eliminates short fiber, neps and impurities in the raw sliver, and creates conditions for improving the evenness of the finished sliver and the strength of the finished sliver. The trial spinning is carried out on an FA288 comber, the blending characteristic of hemp and viscose fiber is considered, the noil spacing of the combing process is mastered slightly small, and the straightening degree of the fiber is improved by selecting the large drafting spacing; meanwhile, the top comb is detached to ensure that hemp is smoothly combed into a net, because the final yarn quality of hemp varieties which are not spun in a combing process is poor, and large neps are easy to tangle in an eddy-current spinning process and cannot pass through a nozzle, the spinning efficiency is seriously influenced; the knot cannot pass through the top comb and cannot be formed into a net without removing the top comb.
Drawing: the drawing process plays a key role in the yarn evenness of the finished yarn, adopts the processes of medium quantification, heavy pressurization, large gauge, low speed, reverse drafting and reasonable tension, adopts three processes of combination, drafting, full combination and anti-winding and anti-blocking for improving the straightening parallelism of the fiber, and properly enlarges the roller gauge; meanwhile, a proper small-diameter ring pressure rod is adopted for controlling floating fibers, the height of the pressure rod is reduced, and the drafting multiples of the front zone and the rear zone are reasonably configured to improve the evenness of the yarn; the draft multiple of the head-rear area is controlled to be 2.0 to improve the straightening parallelism of the fibers and reduce hooked fibers; the drawing channel is kept smooth and the diameter of the bell mouth is controlled to be smaller, so that the sliver is restrained and the fiber cohesion force is improved; in order to improve the dryness of the cooked strips, the surface of the rubber roller is smooth and has no burrs.
And (3) head combination: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 21g/5m, 6 pieces of slivers are used for doubling, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 2.1, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min.
Secondly, combining: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 21g/5m, 8 pieces of slivers are adopted for combination, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 1.95, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min.
And thirdly: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 20.6g/5m, 8 pieces of slivers are adopted for combination, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 1.3, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min.
The spinning process design: mainly adjusts the relevant technological parameters of the vortex spinning machine, including vortex air pressure, spinning speed, coiling ratio and feeding ratio, and ensures the quality of finished yarn.
In order to successfully spin a new product, the blending ratio of the fiber raw materials is arranged (according to the mass percentage): hemp fiber 65/viscose fiber 35, hemp fiber 60/viscose fiber 40, hemp fiber 55/viscose fiber 45, fiber hemp 50/viscose fiber 50, hemp fiber 45/viscose fiber 55, hemp fiber 40/viscose fiber 60. Meanwhile, the technical parameters of the vortex spinning process are optimized by adopting orthogonal experiments, and the arrangement of the orthogonal experiments is shown in the following table 1:
TABLE 1 orthogonal experimental table of spinning process parameters
| Experiment number | Eddy air pressure MPa | Spinning speed m/min | Coiling ratio | Length mm of yarn guide needle |
| 1 | 0.45 | 380 | 1.3 | 1.5 |
| 2 | 0.45 | 380 | 1.1 | 2 |
| 3 | 0.45 | 420 | 1.3 | 2 |
| 4 | 0.45 | 420 | 1.1 | 1.5 |
| 5 | 0.5 | 380 | 1.3 | 2 |
| 6 | 0.5 | 380 | 1.1 | 1.5 |
| 7 | 0.5 | 420 | 1.3 | 1.5 |
| 8 | 0.5 | 420 | 1.1 | 2 |
In the orthogonal experiment result, the optimal results of the factors under different levels are determined by taking the single yarn strength, the strength unevenness and the yarn levelness CV as indexes. Visual analysis of the experimental results shows that for the strength of a single yarn, the larger the strength is, the better the strength is; the smaller the strength unevenness and the yarn levelness CV, the better. By combining the above factors, the optimal level combination is that the vortex air pressure is 0.5MPa, the spinning speed is 380m/min, the coiling ratio is 1.3, and the length of the yarn guide needle is 1.5 mm. In addition, according to the optimized spinning parameters and multiple experimental comparisons, the weight blending ratio of the hemp fiber/the viscose fiber is 55/45, which can best meet the spinning quality and the wearability of the product fabric.
Example 2
A preparation method of the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric produced by adopting the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn comprises the following steps: the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn is sequentially subjected to doubling, rewinding, piece weaving, looping, flat turning, hand sewing, washing, drying, ironing, packaging and warehousing to obtain the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric, and the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric adopts a fabric tissue as a single-side flat needle and is flat and dense: 32/10 cm; longitudinal density: 22.3/10cm, needle number: 7G, knitting on a computerized flat knitting machine, wherein the yarn: by using 11SStrand,/4 grammage: 296 grams per square meter.
The hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric is knitted by the computerized flat knitting machine, yarn tension of the computerized flat knitting machine is optimized, the specific method is that yarn is lubricated and waxed firstly, the waxing step belongs to a piece weaving process, and tension of the yarn is strictly controlled by a novel yarn storage device, so that the problems of yarn breakage, flaws and the like caused by uneven yarn gravity are well avoided.
Softening and finishing: due to the special wrapping structure of the vortex spun yarn, the hand feeling is hard, and the wearability of the woven fabric needs to be improved. Therefore, the fabric is softened by adopting pectinase and sodium hydroxide, and important finishing parameters such as the concentration of a finishing agent, the pH value and the temperature are compared and tested. The specific parameters are as follows: the mass fraction of the pectinase is 2.2 percent, the mass fraction of the sodium hydroxide is 4.5 percent, the temperature is 41 ℃, and the pH value is 7.1-8.6.
The hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric has the following product quality level: the detection of the national textile product quality supervision and inspection center (Jiangyin) is as follows: the product quality meets the first-class requirements of FZ/T73010-. The method comprises the following specific steps: water color fastness: 4-5 (technical requirement 3 level); acid sweat stain resistance color fastness: 4-5 (technical requirement 3 level); color fastness to alkali perspiration: 4-5 (technical requirement 3). Fastness to rubbing: dry friction: 4-5 (technical requirement 3). No formaldehyde was detected (technical requirement less than 75 mg/kg).
The hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric is finally and successfully developed by selecting raw materials, designing a pre-spinning process, optimizing air-jet vortex spinning technical parameters and optimizing a flat knitting machine process. Through relevant standard detection, the developed product does not detect formaldehyde, and has good environmental protection characteristics; the color fastness to washing and the rubbing fastness are higher than the standard, meet the standard regulation of national basic safety technical standard of textile products, meet the safety requirements of B class, and meet the first-class requirements of knitted technical shirts. The production process of the product is feasible, the product quality and the function reach the domestic advanced level, and better economic benefit and social benefit are obtained.
The foregoing shows and describes the general principles, essential features, and advantages of the invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, which are given by way of illustration of the principles of the present invention, and that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims. The scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims and equivalents thereof.
Claims (3)
1. The hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn is characterized in that: comprises 55 percent of hemp fiber and 45 percent of viscose fiber;
the short fiber length of the viscose fiber is 38 mm;
the hemp fiber has an effective length of more than 34mm, an average linear density of 0.32-0.34 tex, a breaking strength of more than 7.6cN/tex and an elongation of 7.6%;
the single fiber strength of the viscose fiber is 5.62cN/dtex, and the elongation is 20.31%;
the preparation method of the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn comprises the following steps:
the hemp fiber is uniformly mixed with the viscose fiber after pretreatment, and the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn is obtained by sequentially carrying out opening picking, cotton carding, combing, three-pass doubling and drawing processes and spinning;
the hemp fiber is subjected to pretreatment, namely the hemp fiber is subjected to humidity adjustment treatment;
the humidifying treatment is to add a soft hemp oil solution before test spinning for sealing so that the actual moisture regain of hemp fibers reaches 12-16%;
the main technological parameters of the opening and picking process are set as follows: the comprehensive beater speed is 700r/min, the fan rotating speed is 1200r/min, the lap roller rotating speed is 10r/min, and the beater and balance roller gauge is 12 mm;
the main technological parameters of the cotton carding process are as follows: the raw sliver ration is 50g/10 m; the cylinder speed is 323 r/min; the speed of the licker-in is 680 r/min; the cover plate speed is 132 mm/min; the doffer speed is 15 r/min; the spacing between the cotton feeding plate and the licker-in is 0.3 mm; the cylinder-to-doffer gauge is 0.12 mm; the distance between the small drain bottom inlets is enlarged to be 19 mm;
the main process parameters of the three merging and drawing processes are set as follows: the drafting multiple of the head-rear area is controlled to be 2.0;
the main process parameters of the head combination are set as follows: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 21g/5m, 6 pieces of slivers are used for doubling, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 2.1, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min;
the main process parameters of the second combination are set as follows: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 21g/5m, 8 pieces of slivers are adopted for combination, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 1.95, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min;
the main process parameters of the third step are set as follows: the quantitative rate of half-cooked slivers is 20.6g/5m, 8 pieces of slivers are adopted for combination, the drafting multiple of a rear zone is 1.3, and the rotating speed of a front roller is 180 r/min;
the spinning process parameters are set as follows: the vortex air pressure is 0.45-0.5 MPa, the spinning speed is 380-420 m/min, the coiling ratio is 1.1-1.3, and the length of the yarn guide needle is 1.5-2 mm.
2. A hemp viscose vortex spun yarn knitted fabric produced by adopting the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the fabric weave is a single-side flat needle, and is transverse dense: (30-35)/10 cm; longitudinal density: (20-25)/10 cm, needle number: 7G, knitting on a computerized flat knitting machine, wherein the yarn: by using 11SStrand,/4 grammage: 290-300 g/m.
3. A preparation method of the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn knitted fabric produced by adopting the hemp viscose vortex spun yarn according to claim 2, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
the hemp viscose vortex spinning yarn sequentially passes through doubling, rewinding, weaving, looping, flat turning, hand sewing, washing, drying, ironing, packaging and warehousing to obtain the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric;
the yarns in the weaving pieces need to be lubricated and waxed;
the hemp viscose vortex spinning knitted fabric needs softening finishing;
the specific parameters of the softening finishing are as follows: the mass fraction of the pectinase is 2.2 percent, the mass fraction of the sodium hydroxide is 4.5 percent, the temperature is 41 ℃, and the pH value is 7.1-8.6.
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