EP1658398A1 - A fabrik blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank - Google Patents

A fabrik blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank

Info

Publication number
EP1658398A1
EP1658398A1 EP03818385A EP03818385A EP1658398A1 EP 1658398 A1 EP1658398 A1 EP 1658398A1 EP 03818385 A EP03818385 A EP 03818385A EP 03818385 A EP03818385 A EP 03818385A EP 1658398 A1 EP1658398 A1 EP 1658398A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yam
fabric blank
yarn
garment
fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP03818385A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1658398B1 (en
Inventor
Markus Regenstein
Nigel Page
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Penn Elastic GmbH
Original Assignee
Penn Elastic GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Penn Elastic GmbH filed Critical Penn Elastic GmbH
Priority to SI200331231T priority Critical patent/SI1658398T1/en
Publication of EP1658398A1 publication Critical patent/EP1658398A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1658398B1 publication Critical patent/EP1658398B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a fabric blank, comprising a first yarn consisting of a polyamide or polyester or blends of any of these materials with cotton.
  • the invention further relates to a method of manufacturing such a fabric blank and to a garment comprising the fabric blank, the invention is in particular applicable to garments and corsetry.
  • Garments and corsetry such as girdles, panties, body suits, swim suits, brassieres and the like usually are fabricated by providing a fabric blank which is either knit, warp knit or woven from, for example, synthetic fiber yarn, such as nylon or polyester yarn, regenerated fiber yarn, such as rayon, acetate or cuprammonium rayon yarn, natural fiber yarn, such as cotton, silk, flax, or wool yarn. It is known in the art to vary the yarns in thickness and to use different kind of yarns to achieve at desired characteristics of the fabric blank, so that different areas of the garment can be given different properties.
  • the fabric blank can then be cut along the outline of the desired garment, and preferably, the cutting is performed in a cutting machine (pressure, click out) or in a sewing machine that also simultaneously sews decorative and/or elastic banding along the cut edges so as to create a finished edge of the garment.
  • a cutting machine pressure, click out
  • a sewing machine that also simultaneously sews decorative and/or elastic banding along the cut edges so as to create a finished edge of the garment.
  • the outline of a garment is arranged on the fabric blank in such a manner that longer edges of the garment are brought in coincidence with the edges of the fabric blank. This relates, for example, to the edge of a brassiere below the breast cups or the leg hems of a panty.
  • a curved hem is provided for wearer's comfort and improved appearance of the garment. It is, however, not possible to simply cut these curves, because the hems are formed by a selvedge of the blank which would become frayed if it is cut.
  • a brassiere is known wherein the fabric is laminated to another layer, for example by glueing, so that a composite is formed which can be cut without fraying.
  • the optical appearance and wearer's comfort are degraded.
  • a second yam is included into at least a portion of said fabric blank, said second yam being polyether-based and thermally bonded to said first yam.
  • This additional yarn may be a melt spinning spandex which has advantageous characteristics which make it suitable for garments, such as soft tightening power, sufficient alkali resistance, good setting ability and excellent binding performance.
  • an elastic yam into at least a portion of said fabric blank, and it may be that the portion comprising the elastic yarn and the portion comprising said thermally bonded yarn are different from one another or are overlapped.
  • a method of manufacturing a fabric blank as described above comprises that steps of:
  • a garment comprising the fabric blank as defined above is characterized in that at least one portion of the fabric blank comprising said thermally bonded yam is in a region subjected to cut during production of said garment.
  • Said garment may be a brassiere, and said portion comprising said thermally bonded yam extending below a breast cup.
  • Said garment may also be a panty, a body suit or a swim suit, and said portion comprising said thermally bonded yam extending in the leg hem part.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic stitch representation for explaining a condition in which thermally bonded yam is inserted in a ground stitch;
  • Figure 2 is a schematic representation illustrating a condition in which the yams are thermally bonded to another where part of the fabric is cut away;
  • Figure 3 is a representation similar to that of Figure 1, additionally including an elastic yam;
  • Figure 4 is a representation similar to Figure 2, including elastic yarn
  • Figure 5 is a schematic representation of a part of a fabric blank to produce a brassiere.
  • Figure 6 is a schematic representation of a part of a fabric blank to produce a panty- girdle or pants.
  • numeral 10 indicates loops of inelastic yarn knitted in a ground stitch.
  • the inelastic yam may be a polyamide or a polyester.
  • a second yam 12 passes each single loop, so that, after been thermally bonded to said inelastic yam 10, the configuration of loops is stabilized.
  • Figure 2 shows the situation where part of the fabric is cut away, but the stmcture of the ground stitch is fixed by the thermally bonded sites of inelastic yarn 10 and thermally bondable yarn 12.
  • Figure 3 is a similar representation to that of Figure 1, where additionally an elastic yam 14 is inserted to impart strength and elasticity to the fabric.
  • Figure 4 which is similar to Figure 2, shows that when part of the fabric is cut, the fabric is still fixed by the bonding sites of inelastic yarn 10 and thermally bondable yam 12.
  • thermally bondable yam 12 must be polyether-based.
  • Figure 5 depicts how a brassiere can be produced using the fabric blank of the invention. It is assumed that the breast cups 20 are knitted by a ground stitch comprising inelastic yarn or inelastic and elastic yam, a reinforced section 22 below the breast cup comprising fabric which additionally includes elastic yam, for example polyurethane yam, and a third section 24 comprises a stitch similar to Figure 3, namely including inelastic yam, elastic yarn and thermally bondable yam. After heat fusing, it is now possible to cut along line 26 to achieve at a curved edge without the risk that this edge become frayed.
  • a ground stitch comprising inelastic yarn or inelastic and elastic yam
  • a reinforced section 22 below the breast cup comprising fabric which additionally includes elastic yam, for example polyurethane yam
  • a third section 24 comprises a stitch similar to Figure 3, namely including inelastic yam, elastic yarn and thermally bondable yam.
  • Figure 6 shows how a panty-girdle or a pant can be produced using the fabric blank of the invention.
  • the main part 30 is knitted by a ground stitch comprising inelastic yarn or inelastic and elastic yam, optionally blended with cotton.
  • the main part 30 is provided with a ham region 32 defining the cut outs for the legs by a cutting line 34.
  • Sections 36 indicated by slanted lines, is at first integral with the ham regions 32. They comprise a stitch similar to Figure 1, namely including inelastic yarn and thermally bondable yam, or similar to Figure 3, including inelastic yarn, elastic yam and thermally bondable yam. After heat fusing, a cut is made along line 34, and sections 36 are discarded.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Abstract

A fabric blank, comprising a first yarn ( 10 ) consisting of polyamide or polyester or blends of any of these materials with cotton, is characterized in that a second yarn ( 12 ) is included into at least a portion of said fabric blank, said second yarn being polyether-based and thermally bonded to said first yarn.

Description

A fabric blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank
The invention relates to a fabric blank, comprising a first yarn consisting of a polyamide or polyester or blends of any of these materials with cotton. The invention further relates to a method of manufacturing such a fabric blank and to a garment comprising the fabric blank, the invention is in particular applicable to garments and corsetry.
Garments and corsetry, such as girdles, panties, body suits, swim suits, brassieres and the like usually are fabricated by providing a fabric blank which is either knit, warp knit or woven from, for example, synthetic fiber yarn, such as nylon or polyester yarn, regenerated fiber yarn, such as rayon, acetate or cuprammonium rayon yarn, natural fiber yarn, such as cotton, silk, flax, or wool yarn. It is known in the art to vary the yarns in thickness and to use different kind of yarns to achieve at desired characteristics of the fabric blank, so that different areas of the garment can be given different properties. Even though the knit structure already makes the garment resiliently stretchable, vertically and horizontally, it may be an option to insert elastic yarns in order to optimize the characteristics of the fabric blank with regard to the intended garment. Normally, polyurethane is used as a basic material for elastic yarns.
The fabric blank can then be cut along the outline of the desired garment, and preferably, the cutting is performed in a cutting machine (pressure, click out) or in a sewing machine that also simultaneously sews decorative and/or elastic banding along the cut edges so as to create a finished edge of the garment.
The outline of a garment is arranged on the fabric blank in such a manner that longer edges of the garment are brought in coincidence with the edges of the fabric blank. This relates, for example, to the edge of a brassiere below the breast cups or the leg hems of a panty.
Sometimes, it would be desired that a curved hem is provided for wearer's comfort and improved appearance of the garment. It is, however, not possible to simply cut these curves, because the hems are formed by a selvedge of the blank which would become frayed if it is cut. In this respect a brassiere is known wherein the fabric is laminated to another layer, for example by glueing, so that a composite is formed which can be cut without fraying. However, the optical appearance and wearer's comfort are degraded.
It is the object of the invention to provide a fabric blank which offers the possibility to provide curve sections even at the selvedges of the blank without the risk that the cut becomes frayed.
This object is solved by a fabric blank as defined in claim 1.
According to the invention, a second yam is included into at least a portion of said fabric blank, said second yam being polyether-based and thermally bonded to said first yam. This additional yarn may be a melt spinning spandex which has advantageous characteristics which make it suitable for garments, such as soft tightening power, sufficient alkali resistance, good setting ability and excellent binding performance. By heat fusing the second yarn to the first yarn, it is possible to avoid ravel, curl and slip-in.
It is also possible to insert an elastic yam into at least a portion of said fabric blank, and it may be that the portion comprising the elastic yarn and the portion comprising said thermally bonded yarn are different from one another or are overlapped.
A method of manufacturing a fabric blank as described above comprises that steps of:
a) weaving, knitting or said first yam; b) inserting said second yarn into at least a portion of a fabric blank during or after weaving or knitting said first yarn; and c) optionally, inserting an elastic yam into the same or another portion of said fabric; and d) heat fusing said second yam to said first yam.
The process allows for a wide range of processing temperatures, and it is preferred that the temperature during heat fusing is between about 110 °C and 190 °C. The suitable fusing temperature will depend on the fineness of the yarns, the material of the yams. Yam breakage by overly high temperature must avoided. A garment comprising the fabric blank as defined above is characterized in that at least one portion of the fabric blank comprising said thermally bonded yam is in a region subjected to cut during production of said garment.
Said garment may be a brassiere, and said portion comprising said thermally bonded yam extending below a breast cup.
Said garment may also be a panty, a body suit or a swim suit, and said portion comprising said thermally bonded yam extending in the leg hem part.
The above and other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent from the following description when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in which:
Figure 1 is a schematic stitch representation for explaining a condition in which thermally bonded yam is inserted in a ground stitch;
Figure 2 is a schematic representation illustrating a condition in which the yams are thermally bonded to another where part of the fabric is cut away;
Figure 3 is a representation similar to that of Figure 1, additionally including an elastic yam;
Figure 4 is a representation similar to Figure 2, including elastic yarn;
Figure 5 is a schematic representation of a part of a fabric blank to produce a brassiere; and
Figure 6 is a schematic representation of a part of a fabric blank to produce a panty- girdle or pants. In Figure 1, numeral 10 indicates loops of inelastic yarn knitted in a ground stitch. The inelastic yam may be a polyamide or a polyester. A second yam 12 passes each single loop, so that, after been thermally bonded to said inelastic yam 10, the configuration of loops is stabilized.
Figure 2 shows the situation where part of the fabric is cut away, but the stmcture of the ground stitch is fixed by the thermally bonded sites of inelastic yarn 10 and thermally bondable yarn 12.
Figure 3 is a similar representation to that of Figure 1, where additionally an elastic yam 14 is inserted to impart strength and elasticity to the fabric.
Figure 4, which is similar to Figure 2, shows that when part of the fabric is cut, the fabric is still fixed by the bonding sites of inelastic yarn 10 and thermally bondable yam 12.
It has turned out that, if polyester or polyamide is chosen as material for the inelastic yarn 10, the thermally bondable yam 12 must be polyether-based.
Figure 5 depicts how a brassiere can be produced using the fabric blank of the invention. It is assumed that the breast cups 20 are knitted by a ground stitch comprising inelastic yarn or inelastic and elastic yam, a reinforced section 22 below the breast cup comprising fabric which additionally includes elastic yam, for example polyurethane yam, and a third section 24 comprises a stitch similar to Figure 3, namely including inelastic yam, elastic yarn and thermally bondable yam. After heat fusing, it is now possible to cut along line 26 to achieve at a curved edge without the risk that this edge become frayed.
Figure 6 shows how a panty-girdle or a pant can be produced using the fabric blank of the invention. The main part 30 is knitted by a ground stitch comprising inelastic yarn or inelastic and elastic yam, optionally blended with cotton. The main part 30 is provided with a ham region 32 defining the cut outs for the legs by a cutting line 34. Sections 36, indicated by slanted lines, is at first integral with the ham regions 32. They comprise a stitch similar to Figure 1, namely including inelastic yarn and thermally bondable yam, or similar to Figure 3, including inelastic yarn, elastic yam and thermally bondable yam. After heat fusing, a cut is made along line 34, and sections 36 are discarded.
The features disclosed in the foregoing description, in the claims and/or in the accompanying drawings may, both separately and in any combination thereof, be material for realising the invention in diverse forms thereof.

Claims

Claims
1. A fabric blank, comprising a first yarn (10) consisting of polyamide or polyester or blends of any of these materials with cotton, characterized in that a second yam (12) is included into at least a portion of said fabric blank, said second yarn (12) being polyether-based and thermally bonded to said first yam (10).
2. The fabric blank of claim 1, characterized in that an elastic yam (14) is inserted into at least a portion of said fabric blank.
3. The fabric blank of claim 2, characterized in that said portion comprising the elastic yam (14) and said portion comprising said thermally bonded yarn (12) are overlapped.
4. The fabric blank of claim 2, characterized in that said portion comprising the elastic yam (14) and said portion comprising said thermally bonded yam (12) are different from one another.
5. A method of manufacturing a fabric blank according to any of claims 1 to 4, comprising the steps of:
a) weaving or knitting or warp knitting said first yam; b) inserting said second yam into at least a portion of fabric blank during or after weaving or knitting said first yarn; and c) optionally, inserting said elastic yarn into the same or another portion of said fabric; and d) heat fusing said second yam to said first yarn.
6. The method of claim 5, wherein the temperature during heat fusing is between about 110 °C and l90 °C.
7. A garment, comprising the fabric blank of any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that at least one portion of the fabric blank comprising said thermally bonded yam is in a region subjected to cut during production of said garment.
8. The garment of claim 7, wherein said garment is a brassiere, and said portion comprising said second yarn extends below a breast cup.
9. The garment of claim 7, wherein said garment is a panty, a body suit or a swim suit, and said portion comprising said second yam extends in the leg hem part.
EP03818385A 2003-08-29 2003-08-29 A fabrik blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank Expired - Lifetime EP1658398B1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
SI200331231T SI1658398T1 (en) 2003-08-29 2003-08-29 A fabrik blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/EP2003/009624 WO2005021852A1 (en) 2003-08-29 2003-08-29 A fabrik blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1658398A1 true EP1658398A1 (en) 2006-05-24
EP1658398B1 EP1658398B1 (en) 2008-04-23

Family

ID=34259105

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP03818385A Expired - Lifetime EP1658398B1 (en) 2003-08-29 2003-08-29 A fabrik blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank

Country Status (14)

Country Link
US (1) US20070272321A1 (en)
EP (1) EP1658398B1 (en)
JP (1) JP2007515559A (en)
CN (1) CN100591824C (en)
AT (1) ATE393251T1 (en)
AU (1) AU2003264324B2 (en)
DE (1) DE60320594T2 (en)
DK (1) DK1658398T3 (en)
ES (1) ES2304554T3 (en)
HK (1) HK1093226A1 (en)
PT (1) PT1658398E (en)
SI (1) SI1658398T1 (en)
TW (1) TWI251630B (en)
WO (1) WO2005021852A1 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ATE462813T1 (en) * 2005-12-08 2010-04-15 Penn Elastic Gmbh KNITTED OR WARP KNITTED CLOTH BLANK
CN100423668C (en) * 2006-08-01 2008-10-08 内乡县地毯工艺品集团公司 Polyester filament carpet and technology for making the same
ES2278544B1 (en) * 2006-12-20 2009-03-01 Vives Vidal Vivesa, S.A. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A PERMEABLE, ELASTIC AND BREATHABLE FABRIC OR FABRIC AND FABRIC OBTAINED.
JP2008240211A (en) 2007-03-28 2008-10-09 Kuroda Tex Co Ltd Method for producing knitted lace and knitted lace
GB2454677B (en) * 2007-11-14 2012-12-19 Montfort Services Sdn Bhd An elasticized warp knitted fabric and a process for knitting an elasticized warp knitted fabric
EP2511405B1 (en) 2009-12-07 2018-07-18 Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha Elastic warp knitted fabric
CN103572493A (en) * 2012-07-27 2014-02-12 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 Method for producing ultrastrong anti-fatigue elastic fabric
US10368606B2 (en) * 2014-04-15 2019-08-06 Nike, Inc. Resilient knitted component with wave features
CN110130113A (en) * 2019-04-08 2019-08-16 湖州领先丝带有限公司 The manufacturing method of the anti-scattered side cotton tape of cold cut mouth

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US4133191A (en) * 1976-04-09 1979-01-09 Phillips Fibers Corporation Knitted fabric having open areas
US4818316A (en) * 1987-06-04 1989-04-04 Collins & Aikman Corporation Method of forming a ravel resistant warp knit elastic tape
JPH04240252A (en) * 1991-01-25 1992-08-27 Kuraray Co Ltd Formed knit fabric
FR2781816B1 (en) * 1998-07-31 2000-09-22 Marcoux Laffay Sa ELASTIC WEFT KNIT FOR ARTICLE HAVING ZONES HAVING DIFFERENT EXTENSIBILITIES AND ARTICLES OBTAINED
ITBO20010076A1 (en) * 2001-02-13 2002-08-13 Magneti Marelli Spa METHOD FOR ESTIMATING THE FINDING OF A CYLINDER IN AN INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE
GB0104143D0 (en) * 2001-02-20 2001-04-11 Courtaulds Textiles Holdings Knitted fabric
JP3817690B2 (en) * 2001-10-31 2006-09-06 株式会社タケダレース Elastic warp knitted fabric for clothing

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE393251T1 (en) 2008-05-15
ES2304554T3 (en) 2008-10-16
TWI251630B (en) 2006-03-21
CN1820101A (en) 2006-08-16
AU2003264324B2 (en) 2010-04-22
DE60320594D1 (en) 2008-06-05
SI1658398T1 (en) 2008-10-31
US20070272321A1 (en) 2007-11-29
EP1658398B1 (en) 2008-04-23
JP2007515559A (en) 2007-06-14
PT1658398E (en) 2008-06-18
AU2003264324A1 (en) 2005-03-16
CN100591824C (en) 2010-02-24
HK1093226A1 (en) 2007-02-23
WO2005021852A1 (en) 2005-03-10
TW200508441A (en) 2005-03-01
DK1658398T3 (en) 2008-08-18
DE60320594T2 (en) 2009-06-10

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