CN100403947C - Clothes - Google Patents

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Publication number
CN100403947C
CN100403947C CNB2004800012287A CN200480001228A CN100403947C CN 100403947 C CN100403947 C CN 100403947C CN B2004800012287 A CNB2004800012287 A CN B2004800012287A CN 200480001228 A CN200480001228 A CN 200480001228A CN 100403947 C CN100403947 C CN 100403947C
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yarn
edge
warp
clothes
knitting
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CN1705444A (en
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大谷圭
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Wacoal Corp
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Wacoal Corp
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Abstract

A garment that is made including a piece of a stretchable warp-knitted fabric, wherein at least a non-elastic yarn is arranged in a 11 tricot structure and an elastic yarn is arranged in a looping structure, that is cut at an angle of at least 3 DEG and at most 177 DEG with respect to the knitting direction, the piece having an edge that does not require hem finishing when left as cut, so that at least one of the edge portions of the garment is formed by an edge that does not require hem finishing when left as cut (an edge of the bottom line 2 or an edge of the waist line 3). Thus, a garment is provided, in which the portion of the edge does not become thick, the edge does not require hem finishing when the fabric is left as cut, this edge is used for the garment's edge portion, curling of the edge portion does not occur, and the edge portion fits the body.

Description

Clothes
Technical field
The present invention relates to have the clothes at the edge that when keeping the cutting former state, does not need the edging finishing.
Background technology
As usual, if for example the edge at clothes bottom place keeps the cutting former state to be easy to wearing and tearing, therefore in order to prevent that wearing and tearing from must carry out certain edging finishing.This finishing or edging finishing are known as tape edge, and according to position and material, have multiple tape edge method.For example, carry out the edging finishing by folding cloth edge and with this two-layer being stitched together usually, perhaps another kind of cloth or ribbon-shaped members formation are roughly U shape cross section, and place it on the marginal portion of fabric, and they are stitched together.Yet this stitching aspect that operates in clothes can cause sizable burden.And, if carry out the edging finishing by this way, this part is understood thickening so, and be through at the overcoat of tightening under the situation of its outside, just can see as the such underwear base of protruding rib by overcoat, this has destroyed outward appearance, and has the problem that weakens snugness of fit such as thicker marginal portion.And, as usual,, often carry out by pulling out yarn and form the method for marginal portion so that formation does not need the edge of edging finishing (to see Fig. 2 and paragraph [0019] and [0020] of patent documentation 1 if a vertical serialgram is used for clothes; Fig. 3 of patent documentation 2 and paragraph [0014]; Fig. 1 of patent documentation 3 and paragraph [0020]).In order to form the marginal portion by pulling out yarn, the line of described edge part office, upper and lower must be parallel, and there is such restriction, promptly, if wherein the line of upper and lower edge part office is not that parallel sheet is used for clothes, so at least one side must be repaired by edging.
In order to address this problem, in recent years, such clothes come into operation, described clothes use the sheet of being made by the fabric that does not need the edging finishing as at least a portion of making the fabric of described clothes, so that, for example in the waistband (girdle) with the bottom line that does not for example need edging finishing waits, do not need the marginal portion of the fabric of edging finishing to be used as the base section of described waistband.Yet, also there is such problem, that is, can curl in the edge part office, so misfit in the marginal portion.
Patent documentation 1:JP2000-303331A
Patent documentation 2: Japan Patent 2997432
Patent documentation 3: Japan Patent 3054384
The objective of the invention is to solve these traditional problems, and have and to be arrived a kind of like this clothes of the marginal portion shape of the body shape of contact with it by free adjustment by using the sheet that when keeping the cutting former state, does not need the edging finishing to provide, and has such advantage, promptly, clothes with the edge that does not need the edging finishing, so that reflect that on coat differential (level is poor) of bottom line or waistline is not obvious, having increased the free degree of design and marginal portion simultaneously can thickening, and described clothes can be fit and the situation that do not have the marginal portion of clothes to curl.
Summary of the invention
In order to achieve this end, made according to clothes of the present invention, comprise the stretchable WARP-KNITTING of a slice, described WARP-KNITTING comprises the non-elastic yarn that is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (tricot structure) at least and is arranged to the stretch yarn (elastic yarn) of loop structure, described with become with respect to weaving direction at least 3 ° and at the most 177 ° angle by cutting, described has the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, so that at least one marginal portion of clothes is formed by the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 shows according to the half long type waistband of the embodiment of the clothes with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of the present invention and sees perspective view in the past from rear side of the present invention.
Fig. 2 show that the half long type waistband of Fig. 1 seen from the front side perspective view.
Fig. 3 is a plane, show on braided fabric and wearer's half long type waistband shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 the corresponding side in left side before-cutting wires of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1, and the plane of crotch portion sheet stock.
Fig. 4 shows according to the short waistband of an embodiment of the clothes with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of the present invention and sees the perspective view of passing by from rear side.
Fig. 5 show that the short waistband of Fig. 4 seen from the front side perspective view.
Fig. 6 is a plane, show on braided fabric and the wearer's short waistband shown in Fig. 4 and Fig. 6 the corresponding side in left side before-cutting wires of sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15.
Fig. 7 is the perspective view of having seen from the front side according to the brassiere of an embodiment of the clothes with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of the present invention.
Fig. 8 is the perspective view of having seen from the front side according to the brassiere of an embodiment of the clothes with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of the present invention.
Fig. 9 is a plane, shows the cutting wires of the corresponding lining cloth sheet 35 in the left side with the wearer brassiere shown in Fig. 8 on braided fabric, end cup part 38 and preceding core 39.
Figure 10 shows the braiding structure figure of the WARP-KNITTING that stretches used in this invention.
Figure 11 shows the braiding structure figure of the WARP-KNITTING that stretches used in this invention.
Figure 12 shows the braiding structure figure of the WARP-KNITTING that stretches used in this invention.
Figure 13 is braiding structure figure, shows non-elastic yarn that overlaps each other 60 shown in Figure 12 and stretch yarn 61.
Figure 14 shows the braiding structure figure of the WARP-KNITTING that stretches used in this invention.
Figure 15 is braiding structure figure, shows non-elastic yarn that overlaps each other 65 shown in Figure 14 and stretch yarn 66.
Figure 16 shows the schematic diagram at the cutting angle at edge.
Figure 17 is the rearview according to the women pants of an embodiment of the clothes with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of the present invention.
Figure 18 is the front view of the women pants shown in Figure 17.
Figure 19 is a plane, show on braided fabric with the wearer's of the women pants shown in Figure 17 and Figure 18 left side corresponding before the cutting wires of rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75.
Figure 20 is the perspective view of major part of brassiere of an embodiment that has the clothes at the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state according to the present invention.
Figure 21 is a plane, shows on braided fabric the cutting wires with the wearer's of the brassiere shown in Figure 20 the corresponding lining cloth sheet 95 in left side.
Figure 22 is the perspective view of major part of brassiere of an embodiment that has the clothes at the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state according to the present invention.
The specific embodiment
(1) made according to clothes of the present invention, comprise the stretchable WARP-KNITTING of a slice, described WARP-KNITTING comprises a stretch yarn that is arranged to the non-elastic yarn of 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and is arranged to loop structure at least, described with become with respect to weaving direction at least 3 ° and at the most 177 ° angle by cutting, described has the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, so that at least one marginal portion of clothes is formed by the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.
Clothes of the present invention are not need a slice cloth of edging finishing to make when keeping the cutting former state, and therefore the clothes with the edge that does not need the edging finishing can be provided, reflection bottom line or waistline differential not obvious on coat wherein, and the marginal portion can thickening.And, the top edge of clothes part or lower edge part or two marginal portions can be made the edge that does not need the edging finishing, thereby can increase the design freedom of clothes, and described clothes meeting is fit and the marginal portion of the clothes that can not curl, and described clothes have draftability and high snugness of fit.
In clothes according to the present invention, by with become with respect to weaving direction at least 3 ° and at the most 177 ° angle cutting comprise the non-elastic yarn that is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure at least and be arranged to the stretched WARP-KNITTING of the stretch yarn of loop structure, can form the edge that can not wear and tear and when keeping the cutting former state, not need the edging finishing, and when clothes are formed to such an extent that comprise the sheet with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, so that at least one marginal portion of clothes is by not wearing and tearing and when not needing the edge of edging finishing to form when keeping the cutting former state, just can obtaining wherein then, the marginal portion does not need edging to repair, and the marginal portion is smooth and does not constitute the clothes of level difference.In addition, can provide such clothes, wherein, can not curl in the marginal portion of clothes, and described clothes are fit for the wearer, have draftability and have high snugness of fit.
(2) according in the clothes of (1), preferably, WARP-KNITTING has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop.
(3) in the basis clothes of (1), preferably, WARP-KNITTING has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and at least a formation closed loop in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn.
(4) according in the clothes of (1), preferably, WARP-KNITTING has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.
(5) in the basis clothes of (1), preferably, the structure of described stretch yarn is the half hitch structure.
(6) in the basis clothes of (1), preferably, the structure of described stretch yarn is satin weave (atlas) structure.
(7) preferably, make by WARP-KNITTING according to the clothes of (5) or (6), wherein, at least a formation closed loop in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn.
(8) preferably, made by WARP-KNITTING according to the clothes of (5) or (6), wherein, stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.
(9) in the basis clothes of (5) or (6), preferably, non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn.
(10) in the basis clothes of (5), preferably, non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn.
(11) in the basis clothes of (5), preferably, non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn, and at least a formation closed loop in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn.
(12) according in the clothes of (5), preferably, non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.
(13) in the basis clothes of (1), preferably, described for by will be from the sheet of the lamination that is bonded together with at least a material that chooses and another cloth made from the material except that first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) following first group (A) that is made of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2)
In first WARP-KNITTING (A-1), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop;
In second WARP-KNITTING (A-2), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn one forms closed loop and another forms open loop.
(14) according in the clothes of (13), preferably, in order to the material of making described another kind of cloth at least a material, wherein for from second group (B) constituting to the six channels braid (B-4) by the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), choosing
In the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure;
In the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure;
In Five Classics braid (B-3), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop;
In the six channels braid (B-4), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and form closed loop.
(15) in the basis clothes of (1), preferably, described is the be bonded together sheet of lamination of a plurality of thin slices by at least a material that will choose from second group (B) being made of to the six channels braid (B-4) the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), wherein
In the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure;
In the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure;
In Five Classics braid (B-3), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop;
In the six channels braid (B-4), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and form closed loop.
(16) in the basis clothes of (14), preferably, the material of first group (A) is that the material of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second group (B) is the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1).
(17) according in the clothes of (16), preferably, the non-elastic yarn of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) be a cotton, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.
(18) arrive in the clothes any in (17) according to (1), preferably, described clothes edge, top and at least one in the clothes edge, bottom be not for needing the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and this does not need edge that edging repairs to become 10 ° to 120 ° angle by cutting with respect to weaving direction.
(19) arrive in the clothes any in (17) according to (1), preferably, described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom both be not for needing the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and these do not need edge that edging repairs to become 10 ° to 120 ° angle by cutting with respect to weaving direction.
(20) according to (1) in (19) in any one clothes, preferably, described by making at the continuous WARP-KNITTING of the vertical direction of clothes.
(21) arrive in the clothes any in (20) according to (1), preferably, described clothes edge, top and at least one in the clothes edge, bottom be not for needing the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and this do not need edge that edging repairs along curve by cutting.
(22) arrive in the clothes any in (20) according to (1), preferably, described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom both be not for needing the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and these do not need edge that edging repairs along curve by cutting.
(23) arrive in the clothes any in (21) according to (1), preferably, described clothes edge, top and at least one in the clothes edge, bottom edge for when keeping the cutting former state, not needing edging to repair, and this does not need edge of edging finishing to have the bellows-shaped of a plurality of curves.
(24) arrive in the clothes any in (22) according to (1), preferably, described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom both edges for when keeping the cutting former state, not needing edging to repair, and these do not need edges of edging finishing to have the bellows-shaped of a plurality of curves.
(25) according to (1) in (24) in any one clothes, preferably, described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom both edges, and top edge and lower edge are not parallel each other for when keeping the cutting former state, not needing edging to repair.
(26) arrive in the clothes any in (25) according to (1), preferably, described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom both edges for when keeping the cutting former state, not needing edging to repair, and the shape of top edge is different from the shape of lower edge.
(27) arrive in the clothes any in (26) according to (1), preferably, described clothes are the bottom clothes, and the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of sheet forms in waistline and the bottom line at least one.
(28) arrive in the clothes any in (26) according to (1), preferably, described clothes are the bottom clothes, and the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of sheet forms waistline and bottom line.
(29) arrive in the clothes any in (26) according to (1), preferably, described clothes are brassiere, perhaps be the dress of going up of swimsuit or tight, and the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of sheet form the top edge of lining cloth and at least one in the lower edge.
(30) arrive in the clothes any in (26) according to (1), preferably, described clothes are brassiere, perhaps be the dress of going up of swimsuit or tight, and the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of sheet form the top edge and the lower edge of lining cloth.
(31) according in the clothes of (27), preferably, sheet when keeping the cutting former state, do not need edge that edging repairs to become 20 ° to 80 ° angle with respect to weaving direction by cutting.
(32) according in the clothes of (28), preferably, sheet when keeping the cutting former state, do not need edge that edging repairs to become 20 ° to 80 ° angle with respect to weaving direction by cutting.
(33) according in the clothes of (29) or (30), preferably, form lining cloth sheet when keeping the cutting former state, do not need clothes edge that edging repairs to become 10 ° to 90 ° angle with respect to weaving direction by cutting.
(34) according in the clothes of (29) or (30), preferably, form lining cloth sheet when keeping the cutting former state, do not need clothes edge that edging repairs to become 75 ° to 90 ° angle with respect to weaving direction by cutting.
(35) arrive in the clothes any in (34) according to (1), preferably, by the jacquard weave control as the another kind of non-elastic yarn of decorative pattern yarn, described has big jacquard weave weavy grain, and big jacquard weave weavy grain enrolls by the non-elastic yarn and the thread base portion fabric of stretch yarn that constitute described.
(36) in the basis clothes of (35), preferably, the stretch yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure be arranged to as at least a in the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern yarn along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend, and the part that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain in the decorative pattern yarn has the structure beyond 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
(37) in the basis clothes of (35), preferably, the stretch yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and form the base portion braiding structure non-elastic yarn or as the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern yarn be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend, and another kind of non-elastic yarn be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn different directions trend, and the part that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain in the decorative pattern yarn has the structure beyond 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
(38) in the basis clothes of (35), preferably, the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of the stretch yarn different directions trend that forms the base portion braiding structure, and as the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern yarn be arranged to along with the structure of the stretch yarn equidirectional trend that forms the base portion braiding structure, and the part that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain in the decorative pattern yarn has the structure beyond 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
(39) in the basis clothes of (1), preferably, described for by will be from at least a material that chooses following first group (A) by first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) formation and by being formed with according to above-mentioned (35), (36), (37) and the material that the sheet of any one big jacquard weave weavy grain is made in (38) be bonded together and the sheet of lamination, in first WARP-KNITTING (A-1), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop;
In second WARP-KNITTING (A-2), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn one forms closed loop and another forms open loop.
(40) in according to clothes any in (29), (30), (33) and (34), preferably, described lining cloth is for using the lining cloth that arrives sheet any in (17) and (39) according to (13).
(41) arrive in the clothes any in (40) according to (1), preferably, described has the straight flange boundary line that is used for owing to the tensile force transitional region that stretch yarn produced.
(42) arrive in the clothes any in (41) according to (1), preferably, described clothes are the clothes that fit tightly health.
In clothes of the present invention, the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state is not by pulling out the formed edge that does not need the edging finishing of method of yarn such as above-mentioned, and is to use its edge not need a kind of edge of maintenance cutting former state of the WARP-KNITTING of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.The WARP-KNITTING that can stretch can be used as its cutting end (end that keeps the cutting former state) even become the fabric at the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and the described WARP-KNITTING that stretches comprises non-elastic yarn that is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and the stretch yarn that is arranged to loop structure at least.As long as be arranged to the stretch yarn picture of the loop structure WARP-KNITTING that can stretch, just can have a kind of structure except that 1 * 1 structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure), all be possible such as half hitch structure or satin weave structure.
More particularly, can use fabric with following braiding structure, but be not limited to the following stated, as long as to be its cutting end edge of former state (keep cutting) become can not wear and tear and do not need the fabric at edge of edging finishing just passable for it, so the use of specifically described woven structural textile those also falls within the scope of the invention in literary composition.
Be configured for the present invention and have the stretched WARP-KNITTING that the braided fabric of the sheet at the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state for example has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure for (1), wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop at each circle apart from the place.Use non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn that suitable draftability is provided for knitting yarn.Alternatively, also the stretched WARP-KNITTING that can have 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure for example (2), wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and at least a in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn forms closed loop at each circle apart from the place.Use non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn that suitable draftability is provided for knitting yarn.By non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn are arranged in 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and be used in each circle and form the non-elastic yarn of closed loop and at least a braiding in the stretch yarn, the wearing and tearing that can obtain stable braided ring and prevent to keep the edge of cutting former state apart from the place.The non-elastic yarn of also available formation closed loop and stretch yarn braiding.
And, preferably use fabric (3) as described braided fabric, wherein non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure), and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure.
And, preferably use fabric (4) as described braided fabric, wherein non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure.
In the braided fabric of (3) or (4), preferably, at least a formation closed loop in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn.Stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form in the WARP-KNITTING of closed loop therein, and it is favourable preventing to keep the wearing and tearing at the edge of cutting former state, are preferred more therefore.
Consider contact with skin with and absorption of perspiration, preferably use cotton yarn as non-elastic yarn, if but use cotton yarn as non-elastic yarn, then preferably use WARP-KNITTING according to the structure of above-mentioned (3) or (4), this is because this can advantageously prevent to keep the wearing and tearing at the edge of cutting former state, and it is preferred particularly, using the structure of (3).If use cotton yarn, compare the edge that keeps the cutting former state when using nylon yarn or Polyester Yarns and be easier to occur wearing and tearing, but be to use half hitch structure or satin weave structure (preferably half hitch structure) as above-mentioned stretch yarn, increased the adaptability to changes of stretch yarn, even and when the cotton yarn that is easier to wear and tear is used as non-elastic yarn, also can prevent to keep the wearing and tearing at the edge of cutting former state effectively, this is preferred.If cotton yarn is by this way as non-elastic yarn, so preferably at least a place in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn forms closed loop, and more preferably use wherein stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all to form the WARP-KNITTING of closed loop, this is because this more effectively prevents to keep the wearing and tearing at the edge of cutting former state.
And, for the braided fabric with the sheet at the edge that when keeping the cutting former state, is not easy to wear and tear used in the present invention, can use to have and comprise the braided fabric of the special braiding structure of non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn as mentioned above, and suppose that this braided fabric is known as " base portion braiding ", can form suitable big jacquard weave weavy grain by jacquard weave control by the non-elastic yarn that braiding is used as the decorative pattern yarn so, such as little decorative pattern.Be known as " decorative pattern yarn " if be used to form the non-elastic yarn of the decorative pattern that weaves by jacquard weave control, can on the part that will form decorative pattern, form big jacquard weave weavy grain etc. by the structure that the decorative pattern yarn is woven to the braiding structure that is different from the base portion braiding so.The part Ying Yiyu that decorative pattern do not occur for example stretch yarn or the identical structure of non-elastic yarn of base portion fabric is woven with identical direction trend.For example, preferably, the decorative pattern yarn that the part of decorative pattern occurs is a chain stitch, but be not limited to described chain stitch, wherein stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn are just passable along 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of equidirectional trend as long as base portion braiding has, also can be direction 1 * 1 warp plain stitch structure different of sinker loop of the decorative pattern yarn of the part that decorative pattern wherein will occur with the direction of the sinker loop of base portion braiding structure, perhaps can be by suitably selecting to be different from the braiding structure of base portion braiding structure, such as the half hitch structure, form decorative pattern.
Following example (a)-(c) is the preferred formation example of big jacquard weave weavy grain:
(a) sheet of making by WARP-KNITTING, the stretch yarn that wherein forms the base portion fabric is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure be arranged to as at least a in the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control weavy grain along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend, and the part that in the decorative pattern yarn, forms big jacquard weave weavy grain to have a kind of be not the structure of 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
Therefore, wherein as the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control weavy grain for along and the position of 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend be position in the outside of the part that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain.Therefore, can be formed in discontinuous a plurality of little decorative patterns between decorative pattern and the decorative pattern.Same following (b) and (c) of utilizing also can be formed between decorative pattern and the decorative pattern discontinuous a plurality of little decorative patterns equally.Much less, also can form the decorative pattern that the little decorative pattern of some of them is connected.
(b) sheet of making by WARP-KNITTING, the stretch yarn that wherein forms the base portion braiding structure is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and form the base portion braiding structure non-elastic yarn or as in the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern any one be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend in, and another kind of non-elastic yarn be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn different directions trend in, and the part that in the decorative pattern yarn, forms big jacquard weave weavy grain to have a kind of be not the structure of 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
(c) sheet of making by WARP-KNITTING, the non-elastic yarn that wherein forms the base portion braiding structure be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of the stretch yarn different directions trend that forms the base portion braiding structure, and as the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern yarn be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend, and the part that in the decorative pattern yarn, forms big jacquard weave weavy grain to have a kind of be not the structure of 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
For described in (a) to (c), under the situation of the jacquard warp-knitted figured cloth with big jacquard weave weavy grain, non-elastic yarn passes at least two yarn guides, and use can be two kinds of non-elastic yarns of identical or different type as above.By using wherein at least a non-elastic yarn edge and 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure that the stretch yarn equidirectional moves towards, when keeping the cutting former state, do not need the wearing and tearing generation much less of the marginal portion of edging finishing.And, by 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of using wherein another kind of non-elastic yarn edge and stretch yarn different directions to move towards, strengthened the intensity of braided fabric, particularly, can strengthen tearing strength (under described intensity, described fabric failure, thereby it is cleaved into two parts from marginal portion punishment), this is preferred.Non-elastic yarn as for the identical or different direction trend of edge and stretch yarn, the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion knitted parts can be along moving towards with the stretch yarn equidirectional, and the non-elastic yarn edge that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain is moved towards with the stretch yarn different directions, but, the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion knitted parts also can along with stretch yarn different directions trend, and the non-elastic yarn that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain is along moving towards with the stretch yarn equidirectional.In other words, in above-described embodiment, non-elastic yarn is along different mutually direction trends.
And, also can use 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, wherein stretch yarn all moves towards along identical direction with two non-elastic yarns that form base portion braiding and big jacquard weave weavy grain.In this case, keep the cutting former state the marginal portion abrasion resistance in addition be better than abrasion resistance in above-described.With regard to abrasion resistance, having as mentioned above yarn wherein is superior along the material of the part of different directions trend.
If the sheet of being made by the WARP-KNITTING with big jacquard weave weavy grain is subjected to jacquard weave control (having on the tricot machine of jacquard control mechanism), so braiding structure is partly changed into the structure that is different from the base portion braiding structure.For big jacquard weave weavy grain, it is suitable using little decorative pattern, although and be not specifically limited, the example that can provide comprises the plant decorative pattern, such as style decorative pattern or other ornamental decorative patterns.Be not particularly limited about size, but the length that wherein has the part of maximum length is no more than 10cm, the little decorative pattern that more preferably is no more than 5cm is preferred.
Can be in above-mentioned 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure that forms sheet on tricot machine or the raschel machine, half hitch structure, satin weave structure etc. with the edge that when keeping the cutting former state, does not need the edging finishing.If add big jacquard weave weavy grain extraly as mentioned above, will use the tricot machine that is equipped with jacquard control mechanism so.
If be parallel to the WARP-KNITTING that the weaving direction cutting has these braiding structures, wearing and tearing or curling may take place so, if but to become at least 3 ° and 177 ° angle cutting at the most with respect to weaving direction, the cutting end is as the marginal portion of clothes so, even when keeping the cutting former state in the marginal portion like this, the clothes marginal portion can not have the health of fitting under wearing and tearing or the curling situation yet.
In the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING that stretches, the following in practice WARP-KNITTING that can stretch is superior: stretched WARP-KNITTING as shown in Figure 10, wherein non-elastic yarn 47 and stretch yarn 48 be along equidirectional trend and have 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and non-elastic yarn 47 and stretch yarn 48 boths weave with open loop.The direction of arrow 49 is weaving directions of fabric.Stretched WARP-KNITTING as shown in Figure 11, wherein non-elastic yarn 50 and stretch yarn 51 be along different directions trend and have 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and non-elastic yarn 50 and stretch yarn 51 boths weave with closed loop.The direction of arrow 52 is weaving directions of fabric.Although it is not shown, but also has a kind of like this WARP-KNITTING that stretches, wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and described WARP-KNITTING is so woven, that is, make in non-elastic yarn or the stretch yarn any one form closed loop, for example non-elastic yarn forms closed loop and stretch yarn forms open loop, perhaps non-elastic yarn forms open loop and stretch yarn formation closed loop, and the described WARP-KNITTING that stretches also is superior in practice.
And the braiding structure shown in Figure 12 is the WARP-KNITTING that can stretch, and wherein non-elastic yarn 60 is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn 61 is arranged to the half hitch structure, and the both weaves with closed loop.Figure 13 shows the overlapped braiding structure figure of the non-elastic yarn 60 shown in Figure 12 and stretch yarn 61.The direction of arrow 62 is weaving directions of fabric.As previously discussed, this structure is particularly favourable braiding structure when cotton yarn is used as non-elastic yarn 60.Also can use a kind of like this WARP-KNITTING that stretches, wherein any one in non-elastic yarn or the stretch yarn weaves with closed loop, for example stretch yarn weaves with open loop non-elastic yarn with the closed loop braiding, and perhaps stretch yarn weaves with closed loop non-elastic yarn with the open loop braiding.
Braiding structure shown in Figure 14 is such example, wherein non-elastic yarn 65 is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn 66 is arranged to the satin weave structure (in this example, be four row satin weaves), and non-elastic yarn 65 usefulness closed loops weave.Figure 15 shows the overlapped braiding structure figure of the non-elastic yarn 66 shown in Figure 14 and stretch yarn 66.The direction of arrow 67 is weaving directions of fabric.
Above-mentioned can also be used as laminate, and described laminate is laminated into two-layer or multilayer and bonding them together with resin adhesive etc. if necessary.If a plurality of fabrics are laminated on together and as described, so usually that two-layer fabrics is laminated together just enough, but if necessary also can be together with three layers or laminated multi-layer.If as the lining cloth of brassiere or as the material of the lining cloth of going up dress of swimsuit or tight, so preferably use such sheet, that is, and by by this way with the multiply cloth sheet of making laminated together.
For example, can be used as can be by the example of lamination and the fabric combination that so bonds them together for the following stated:
(1) by being bonded together and the sheet of lamination from following another cloth of making by at least a material that chooses and the material of using except that first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) first group (A) of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) formation that lists
In first WARP-KNITTING (A-1), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop; With
In second WARP-KNITTING (A-2), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn one forms closed loop and another forms open loop.
Therefore, be used to form the lining cloth of brassiere etc. if comprise the laminate of material first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) or second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) at least, when the marginal portion of the marginal portion that keeps the cutting former state, can not wear and tear as the clothes (lining cloth etc.) that do not need the edging finishing.
On the other hand, by with first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) or second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) and the material lamination except that first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) or second WARP-KNITTING (A-2), can obtain the feature that is difficult to obtain with material first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2).
In this case, usually, fabric applications with another kind of braiding structure is made the material made by other clothes, and be preferably at least a material that from second group (B) constituting to the six channels braid (B-4) by the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), chooses, wherein in the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure;
In the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure;
In Five Classics braid (B-3), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop;
In the six channels braid (B-4), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and form closed loop.
Except that another example of this material of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) to the six channels braid (B-4) is a kind of WARP-KNITTING material, wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to the half hitch structure.If as the clothes marginal portion without the cutting edge of edging trim materials, so preferably laminated material all is formed the WARP-KNITTING material of ring for all yarns wherein.
(2) also can use multiple material to be bonded together and the sheet of lamination, wherein by at least a type that chooses will be from the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) to the group of the six channels braid (B-4)
In the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure;
In the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure;
In Five Classics braid (B-3), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn both are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop;
In the six channels braid (B-4), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and form closed loop.
Certainly, among (1) listed combination, the material that more preferably is first group (A) is that the material of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second group (B) is the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1).If cotton yarn is as non-elastic yarn in this combination, can advantageously prevent to keep the wearing and tearing at the edge of cutting former state so, this is more preferred.
And, if use combination first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), so preferably cotton yarn all forms closed loop as the non-elastic yarn of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) and the non-elastic yarn and the stretch yarn of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), and this is because this method advantageously prevents to keep the wearing and tearing at the edge of cutting former state.And, if use this laminate, so from contact with regard to skin and absorption of perspiration with regard to wherein the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) design that is positioned at skin side be most preferred.
In addition, if laminate is to be made by sheet with above-mentioned big jacquard weave weavy grain and the sheet that do not have a big jacquard weave weavy grain, the sheet that so preferably will have big jacquard weave weavy grain is arranged on the outside of clothes.
And, if laminate is to be made by sheet with above-mentioned big jacquard weave weavy grain and the sheet that do not have a big jacquard weave weavy grain, so preferably above-mentioned especially first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) or second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) are with the material that acts on the sheet with big jacquard weave weavy grain.Under the situation of this combination, when the marginal portion (for example marginal portion of the lining cloth of brassiere) that use to keep the cutting former state also provide protection against wear during as the marginal portion of the clothes that do not need the edging finishing.
And with regard to improving design, preferably another kind of laminated fabric is to control a kind of material that will be knitted to such as the ornamental decorative pattern of flower pattern wherein by jacquard weave.If the material that material first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) or second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) are disposed on the skin side and big jacquard weave weavy grain has been knitted to wherein is disposed on the outside, can not wear and tear, and can obtain to have the clothes of superior design, this is preferred.
When making laminate, at first one of lamination is stacked on another a plurality of, they are bonded together is cut to them the shape of expectation then, perhaps independent sheet can be cut into reservation shape, then by stacked described a plurality of and bond them together and lamination they.
In any of two kinds of situations, a plurality of wherein identical shaped sheets that are bonded together cause in fact becoming a fabric in the above.Therefore, in sheet, there is not level difference.In addition, because the fabric that can not occur wearing and tearing is bonded together, therefore do not have the situation that the marginal portion gets loose or the yarn end is outstanding of sheet, and the marginal portion is very neat in its any independent fabric.Much less, this also can strengthen tearing strength.
" by a plurality of laminations that are bonded together are formed " be meant with two or more one be stacked on another and by they are bonded together lamination they so that they can not be stripped from easily.Be not particularly limited about adhesive bonding method, and can use adhesive such as the Thermoadhesive resin.Consider gas permeability, point is bonding to be preferred, and adhesive is coated on a plurality of points in point is bonding.
Employed non-elastic yarn depends on the type of Stretchable fabric.Can use such as synthetic fibers such as nylon or polyester, such as semisynthetic fibres such as artificial silks or such as natural fibers such as silk or cottons, and can use filament yarn or spun yarn.Among these yarns, have remarkable absorptive nylon yarn and preferably be used in the braided fabric that is used for underwear.Be not particularly limited for stretch yarn, can use uncovered polyurethane stretch yarn usually or wherein by the yarn (envelope curve) of non-elastic yarn bag quilt.Use uncovered yarn, can easily strengthen count.And cotton has superior skin feel and also is preferred with regard to absorption of perspiration.
As for non-elastic yarn, use fine-count yarn can more easily strengthen the density of braided ring.On the other hand, when yarn is meticulous, a little less than its intensity just became so.Therefore 33 to 154 dtexs (dtex) are preferred, and this is owing to can make fabric under high density, and can obtain to stablize and firm braiding structure.If non-elastic yarn more preferably is 33 to 88 dtexs, even more preferably be 33 to 77 dtexs or even more preferably be the words of 33 to 55 dtexs, can be made into so and have highdensity fabric, and can obtain stable and firm braiding structure, this is preferred.If the use cotton yarn so preferably can weave under high count, so that guarantee can not wear and tear, therefore preferably use thinner cotton yarn in the edge part office that keeps the cutting former state, this is because can easily strengthen count like this.In this case, preferably use its count of yarn to be narrower than 50 or more cotton yarn, more preferably be, have its count of yarn and be narrower than 70 cotton yarn as described cotton yarn.Usually, thin as far as possible yarn is preferred, but at present, the thinnest commercially available cotton yarn has about 100 the count of yarn.Therefore, if use cotton yarn, the cotton yarn with 50 to 100 counts of yarn is preferred.
As for stretch yarn, the fabric with higher density can be made with fine-count yarn.When yarn is 154 dtexs or when bigger, can obtain to have the fabric at the edge that when keeping the cutting former state, does not need the edging finishing so, but tensility has diminished, and therefore preferably uses to have the fabric that is not more than 154 dtexs is more pressed close to health as dress clothes.More preferably be 15 to 100 dtexs, even more preferably be 33 to 88 dtexs.On the other hand, can use the stretch yarn conduct that is coarser than 154 dtexs not need the clothes part of tensility.And, even use greater than 231 and up to the stretch yarn of 396 dtexs, if stretch yarn is softer, also can obtain to have the fabric that keeps cutting former state and nonabradable marginal portion.Ductility is less, but they can be used as the part that does not need ductility.
And, for the stability that obtains braided ring with prevent to keep the effect of wearing and tearing at the edge of cutting former state, be fit to as these WARP-KNITTINGs that can stretch by the fabric of preboarding processing and/or heat-set treatment.Treatment temperature depends on the thickness of shape, preboarding processing time, heat-set treatment time, type of material and the braided fabric of device, but in order to obtain aforementioned effect reliably, preferably under at least 180 ° temperature, carry out this processing, more preferably be, be at least 185 ° or in 190 ° to 195 ° scope, this is because a part of fabric-softening in this case, and the described ring fusion slightly that becomes, thereby stablize described fabric, and keep the edge of cutting former state to become more resistance to wearing.(total length of chamber: device about 15 to 30m), the heat-set treatment time can be about 15 to 40m/min so, and preferably is about 15 to 24m/min if use has the 6-8 chamber configuration.
In addition, in common braided fabric, finished width is set to about 160cm, but in the WARP-KNITTING that stretches of the present invention, finished width is set short in 100 to 140cm, be in particular for example 110cm, 120cm or 130cm, and expectation with weaving textile be within the bounds of possibility high density to strengthen stability, the attraction of the braided ring in the clothes that keep simultaneously stretching.Although also depend on the danier number (denier) of employed knitting yarn, but preferably with greater than 55 stringers/2.54cm (1 inch), more preferably greater than 60 stringers/2.54cm, more preferably greater than 65 stringers/2.54cm, even the high density of more preferably at least 70 stringers/2.54cm weaves described fabric, and the large percentage of the horizontal spreading of fabric.Yet this is optional during as non-elastic yarn when cellulose yarn or cotton yarn.
In addition, preferably use the WARP-KNITTING that can stretch, wherein the use amount of non-elastic yarn increases and is longer, and stretch yarn is shorter than in the general case, and the yarn feeding of non-elastic yarn (runner) length is much larger than the yarn feeding length of stretch yarn.More specifically, the yarn feeding of common 80cm/rack or littler non-elastic yarn preferably is set to 85 to 120cm/rack, more preferably be 95 to 115cm/rack, and the yarn feeding of common 60cm/rack or littler stretch yarn preferably is set to 70 to 110cm/rack, more preferably is 75 to 105cm/rack.
It should be noted that, " yarn feeding " is meant that being used to weave the predetermined quantity row (is called " lacquer " here; Common 480 rows constitute a lacquer) the length (is unit with cm) of yarn.
The ratio (A/B) of the yarn feeding A of non-elastic yarn and the yarn feeding B of stretch yarn is preferably at least 1.15, more preferably is at least 1.2, more preferably is at least 1.3.
It should be noted that the WARP-KNITTING with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state according to the present invention is not a mesh fabric.
And, if, among the edge of the sheet of making by the WARP-KNITTING that can stretch that when keeping the cutting former state, does not need the edging finishing, top edge in the clothes and at least one in the lower edge be not for needing the edge of edging finishing, if therefore along be not parallel to weaving direction, with respect to the angle of weaving direction in 3 ° to 177 ° scopes of fabric under cutting can prevent the wearing and tearing at this edge and curl.The described edge of cutting under 5 ° to 150 ° angle more preferably, more preferably be under 10 ° to 120 ° the angle or even under 15 ° to 90 ° the angle, more preferably be under 20 ° to 80 ° the angle, more preferably be under 30 ° to 60 ° the angle, more preferably be under 40 ° to 50 ° the angle, most preferably be (more specifically being 43 ° to 47 °) about 45 ° or 45 °.
16 the angle that " crop angle at edge " meaned is described below with reference to accompanying drawings.
In Figure 16, be the cutting sheet by the part that A-B-C-D-A centered on.Arrow E, F and G indicate the weaving direction of this fabric.Sidepiece X among Figure 16 is " a braiding origination side ", and the sidepiece Y among Figure 16 is " braiding stops side ".Therefore, edge A-D and edge C-D are the edges on the braiding origination side, and edge A-B and edge B-C are the edges on the braiding termination side.
Under the situation at the edge in braiding origination side (A-D and C-D), the crop angle at edge is meant the acute angle (α 4 or α 3) in the angle that edge line and weaving direction limit.Stop in braiding under the situation at the edge on the side (A-B and B-C), the crop angle at edge is meant the obtuse angle (α 1 or α 2) in the angle that edge line and weaving direction limit.
Foregoing is the formal definition at the cutting angle at the edge among the present invention, but for convenience's sake, but the also cutting angle of edge A-B among use angle β 1 expression Figure 16 for example, and can easily find out, as what can understand from the definition at the cutting angle of upper edge, the cutting angle of edge A-B is " 180-β 1 " degree.
Preferably set the cutting angle of the edge line in the embodiments of the invention as mentioned above like that, this is because this has improved the fit at the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and prevents that the marginal portion from curling to such an extent that leave wearer's health.That is to say that in the top edge or its lower edge of clothes, for example waist or bottom have in the clothes at the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, these edge part branches curl to such an extent that leave wearer's health.In order to ensure described curl can not occurring, must be with the cutting wires of the part at the edge that do not need the edging finishing with respect to the above-mentioned angle cutting of the weaving direction of fabric when keeping the cutting former state.The weaving direction of fabric is corresponding with the direction of supplying with yarn when the braided fabric.In the foregoing description, refer to respect to 20 ° to 80 ° angle of weaving direction between the left side of line of weaving direction or the right side and have 20 ° to 80 ° angle, perhaps in other words, the angle along the weaving direction direction of advance is pointed on the summit that is meant angle, or with respect to the line of weaving direction direction of advance ± 20 ° to 80 ° angle.
It should be noted,, so preferably use the sheet that has being no more than the edge of cutting under 45 ° the angular region if do not need when keeping the cutting former state edge of edging finishing to be used in not too to need to prevent to curl to such an extent that leave the part place of health.And preferably using its edge is not to be tailored to straight line but the sheet that is tailored to the corrugated line, and this is owing to can prevent the marginal portion and curl to such an extent that leave health.
When the sheet of cutting clothes, if a plurality of marginal portions are used as the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, may exist so can not be by the position of cutting in for example with respect to 20 ° to 80 ° preferable range in 3 ° to the 177 ° scopes of weaving direction, and must less than under with respect to 20 ° angle of weaving direction by cutting.If this marginal portion is cut to bellows-shaped, cutting angle as the marginal portion of the curve in the bellows-shaped can be set to for example 20 ° to 80 ° preferable range so, and can obtain effect identical when whole marginal portion is cut to 20 ° to 80 ° substantially.At the waistline of short waistband and bottom line all is not need when keeping the cutting former state in the situation at edge of edging finishing, use is along a continuous sheet of the vertical direction of clothes, because the design of clothes, can occur can not be under for example with respect to 20 ° to 80 ° angle of weaving direction the situation of two marginal portions of cutting, therefore preferably an edge is cut to the edge of bellows-shaped in such a case.
Specifically in the bottom clothes such as waistband or women pants, the marginal portion of using the sheet of cutting under above-mentioned angle can prevent the wearing and tearing of marginal portion as waistline and bottom line or curl.
In the situation about on brassiere or swimsuit or tight, adorning, when a slice lining cloth approach parallel or vertical, for example with respect to perpendicular or parallel under the angle of weaving direction ± 20 ° during by cutting, tensility along lateral can be provided when wearing lining cloth so, because this has improved snugness of fit, be preferred therefore.Usually, lining cloth is trapezoidal basically, and its width narrows down towards the rear center coupling part that is called " hook and hole " from the cup side, and wherein top edge and lower edge are equivalent to two hypotenuses of isosceles triangle.Therefore, preferably becoming 10 ° to 90 ° with respect to weaving direction, more preferably is in cutting top edge and the lower edge under 75 ° to 90 ° the angle.When the cutting angle of a marginal portion is α when spending, approaching (180 °-α) another marginal portion of cutting under the angle of degree so.If under approaching the angle at right angle during cutting, so for example in the lower edge of 100 ° of following cutting lining cloth, and 80 ° of following cutting top edge.If under approaching to be parallel to the angle of weaving direction during cutting, so for example in the top edge of 15 ° of following cutting lining cloth, and 165 ° of following cutting lower edge.By this way, even under the angle that approaches beyond the angle parallel or vertical during the sheet of cutting lining cloth with weaving direction, if cutting is shaped as the bellows-shaped with a plurality of curves, the marginal portion can not occur wearing and tearing yet and curl, and have to a certain degree tensility, therefore allow." bellows-shaped with a plurality of curves " is meant simple convex or the concave curve that is not towards a lateral bending song, but by the curve that constitutes of a plurality of convexs or concave curve, such as the curve with convex or spill wave molding.Therefore " bellows-shaped with a plurality of curves " is meant the curve of " bellows-shaped ".Bellows-shaped is not limited to the wherein ripple of the simple curve repetition of rule, and can be irregular ripple shape.If keeping the shape of the curved edge of cutting former state is bellows-shaped, the curvature of the curve of bellows-shaped is preferably not too little so, and this is because this can not reduce tearing strength, and does not have the distortion (curling) of marginal portion.
On brassiere or swimsuit or tight in the situation of lining cloth of dress, in order to strengthen intensity, can be by two fabrics be bonded together lamination they.In this case, after bonding and lamination, these two fabrics can be cut to intended shape, perhaps can two fabrics are cut to after identical shaped bonding and lamination they.In any situation, identical shaped two by bonding and laminated together, and become basically and be a slice.Therefore, in lining cloth, there is not level difference.In addition, because the fabric that will not wear and tear is bonded together, therefore do not have the situation that the marginal portion gets loose or the yarn end is outstanding of sheet, and the marginal portion is very neat.
As mentioned above, for " carrying out the lining cloth that lamination forms " by identical shaped two are bonded together, described two can be cut to before they are laminated together identical shapedly, perhaps can after bonding and laminated fabric they be cut to reservation shape.
Similar to above-mentioned laminate for laminate as the preferred embodiment of the laminate of the situation of the lining cloth of brassiere etc.
It should be noted, if the line of marginal portion is a bellows-shaped, so the cutting angle be meant weaving direction and even up the convex of bellows-shaped of marginal portion of (leveling) institute cutting and the straight dashed line of concave portions between angle.The straight dashed line of evening up the convex of bellows-shaped of marginal portion of institute's cutting and concave portions can be the tangent line on the summit of the scallop ripple that is connected the edge that does not need the edging finishing, perhaps for described ripple being divided equally the center line for the first half and the latter half.If have a plurality of irregular ripple shapes and the unclear words of straight dashed line, the cutting angle is a weaving direction and be connected from fabric or use angle between the straight line at the two ends on the longitudinal direction of edge line of marginal portion of the sheet that cutting is got off on the clothes of described fabric so.If a curve occurs in the marginal portion, the cutting angle is meant the angle between the straight line at the two ends on weaving direction and the longitudinal direction that is connected described bending so.Not needing the scalloped shaped at the edge of edging finishing partly is the bellows-shaped curve, but can be represented by straight dashed line with the corresponding overall edge line of the direction of this ripple.This is the processing identical with the waveform line, but its direction totally is depicted as straight line.
And, in according to of the present invention, the shape of marginal portion can be formed an arc curve, perhaps have the bellows-shaped of a plurality of curves, and by the marginal portion being cut to curve or bellows-shaped, provide protection against wear or curl.In situation, make that waistline is that the sagging curve of spill can prevent to curl and the waist of can fitting such as the bottom clothes of waistband or women pants.The bottom line of feasible short waistband or women pants is roughly the outstanding curve of convex downwards and can prevents to curl and the buttocks line of can fitting.Alternatively, make that bottom line is that bellows-shaped can prevent to curl and the buttocks line of can fitting.Alternatively, be preferably such that overall bottom line (on the macroscopic view) is the outstanding curve of convex downwards, and be bellows-shaped on the macroscopic view.If the sheet of contact buttocks or veutro is that (" serialgram " is meant and is not by a plurality of parts are sewed and mend the sheet of making together serialgram, but the sheet of making by a part continuous on the in-plane), the shape of edge part separated time also can change so, and its center line contacts buttocks bottom and edge part separated time contact veutro.For example, the buttocks bottom line can be bent to such an extent that convex is outstanding downwards or be bellows-shaped, perhaps also can be overall convex and give prominence to downwards except that bellows-shaped, and the bottom line that contacts the marginal portion of veutro like this can be the curve that convex projects upwards.
In order to ensure described marginal portion, the upper and lower body part that they contacted of can fitting, preferably the shape of top edge is different from the shape of lower edge, perhaps top edge and lower edge are uneven, perhaps different and top edge of the shape of top edge and lower edge and lower edge are uneven, because the clothes 3D shape of health of can fitting like this.
And in the present invention, the fabric that preferably can be formed with the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state is provided with the straight flange boundary line partly, because stretch yarn changes, because like this, has improved the moulding function of health at this place, straight flange boundary line tensile force." in the straight flange boundary line that this place's tensile force changes " is meant and forms strong tensile force regional and weak tensile force zone so that the border between strong tensile force zone and the weak tensile force zone is that (this comprises such situation to straight line, that is, strong tensile force zone and weak tensile force zone comprise the zone with two-stage or multistage different stretch power; And tensile force changes serially).
For the straight flange boundary line is provided partly, because stretch yarn changes, following method is fit at this boundary line place's tensile force:
(a) a plurality of zones that have a stretch yarn of the different-thickness that braiding comes in by formation form the method in the zone of a plurality of different stretch power;
(b) by formation have that braiding comes in a plurality of zones of stretch yarn of varying number form the method in the zone of a plurality of different stretch power;
(c) by combination (a) suitably with (b) form the method in the zone of a plurality of different stretch power.
It should be noted that also can or insert second non-elastic yarn by braiding and form the zone with different stretch power, wherein the border in a plurality of zones is linear.
Here, " strong tensile force " is meant that adaptability to changes is higher and tensility is lower.
For the part of clothes, also can use to have the fabric of pulling out the edge that does not need the edging finishing that yarn makes by conventional method, perhaps do not need the fabric (in the following description, it being abbreviated as " being different from fabric of the present invention ") of edging finishing.
Preferably all of the marginal portion of clothes or nearly all part all have flat surfaces and do not carry out by the edging of sewing and repair, but when wearing clothes, to be easy to the part strained in order strengthening, about 0.5 seam to 2cm length can be provided in these edge part offices.The example of this position be close to brassiere lining cloth upper edge the cup line lining cloth part, be close in the rear center rear part edge part of the rear center coupling part that is called " hook and hole ", near the seam of the crotch portion of perhaps short waistband or women pants.
The present invention is effective fitting tightly on the clothes of health.The example of the present invention's clothes applicatory is preferably short waistband, long waistband, women pants, spat, brassiere, swimsuit, leotard, petticoat next to the shin, camisole, tights and teddy.
Example 1
Fig. 1 shows the seeing from rear side in the past perspective view, described clothes have and do not need the edge that edging repairs and have the moulding function of health when keeping the cutting former state of half long type waistband of the embodiment of the clothes according to the present invention.Fig. 2 shows the perspective view of having seen from the front side of the half long type waistband of Fig. 1.Fig. 3 is a plane, show on the fabric the corresponding side in left side with the wearer of half long type waistband shown in Fig. 2 before-cutting wires of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1, and the plane of crotch portion.
At Fig. 1 in Fig. 3, before Reference numeral 1 expression covers side-side of sidepiece-buttocks-shank before-sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet, described emulsion sheet is made continuously and by a slice that does not have the level difference in its surface along the vertical direction of waistband.Reference numeral 6 expressions cover the belly emulsion sheet of belly, and described emulsion sheet is made continuously and by a slice that does not have the level difference in its surface along the vertical direction of waistband.Before the side on left part and the right part-sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 is stitched together by rear center's jointing line 4, but does not stitch at the shank place, and before jointing line 5 places will arrive side-and the side margins of the front portion of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 and the side margins of belly emulsion sheet 6 be stitched together.The perspective view of seeing Fig. 1 in the past from rear side, the shank of beyonding one's depth begins wherefrom, therefore imaginary point line 8 is added on the figure, in order to indicate zone below the imaginary point line 8 roughly corresponding to shank.Therefore, the rule jointing line 4 of 8 tops of imaginary point is rear center's jointing line, and is divided into left leg and right leg forms shank by the zones below imaginary point line 8.
Among Fig. 3 on fabric 11 shown in line A-B-C-D-E-F-G-A represent in order to before half the side of sheet on the left side that obtains the wearer-cutting wires of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1, this sheet as from the sidepiece of waistband backward part and as shank.And, Reference numeral 10 expression crotch portion sheet stocks, described crotch portion sheet stock 10 can with side before-the identical fabric of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 or different fabrics make.For the material of crotch portion sheet stock, the various materials that are used for waistband crotch portion sheet stock traditionally can both use.Crotch portion sheet stock 10 forms crotch portion, and not shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
Although not shown, be used for the side of right half part before-shape of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 is the mirror image symmetric shape of left-half.Line A-B is stitched into the belly emulsion sheet 6 among Fig. 1, and line Q-C is stitched into line E-D, thereby forms left shank branch, and line G-F is stitched into the appropriate section of the sheet of aforementioned right half part (not shown), forms rear center's jointing line 4.The line H-I that the line O-I that the line P-O of crotch portion sheet stock 10 is stitched into lower edge, the crotch portion sheet stock 10 of belly emulsion sheet 6 is stitched into the line B-Q of sheet 1 and crotch portion sheet stock 10 is stitched into the line F-E of sheet 1.Stitching for the sheet 1 of not shown right half part is similar, because it is symmetrical.By this way, can be made into the waistband shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.Also can be made into the waistband of other embodiment by the stitching of identical substantially mode.
At Fig. 1 in the waistband shown in Fig. 3, its marginal portion does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state sheet as before the side-sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1.
Before constituting side-weaving direction of the WARP-KNITTING of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 is by the direction of arrow indication of arrow 9.
Before the side-and sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein as shown in Figure 11, nylon yarn and polyurethane yarn move towards along different directions, and are woven into and make stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.Before the polyurethane yarn braiding side with the nylon yarn of 44 dtexs and 77 dtexs under the count of 70 stringer/inches (2.54cm)-sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1.
When keeping the cutting former state, do not need before the side of edging finishing in the present embodiment ,-edge of sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 forms the edge of bottom line 2 and the edge of waistline 3.Bottom line 2 is bellows-shaped, and the direction of bottom line 2 is the identical directions of straight line with the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, and and the direction (see figure 3) that arrow 12 is indicated.Bottom line under with respect to about 30 ° angle beta of weaving direction by cutting.On the whole, by cutting, still total bottom line is tailored to a plurality of bellows-shaped to bottom line under about 30 °, and the part of bellows-shaped is surpassing under 30 ° the angle by cutting.
Waistline 3 is tailored to reclinate slightly curve.Also can be along line cutting waistline 3.The straight dashed line that connects the waistline two ends under with respect to the angle of 9 one-tenth 35 ° of weaving directions by cutting (therefore, the cutting angle of A-B is 180 °-35 °=145 °).Because actual waistline be reclinate slightly curve, so actual cutting angle α is better than and drops on angle (145 ° cutting angles) below 35 °.That is to say, the direction of the direction of bottom line 2 and waistline 3 be not be parallel to each other and they have different shape (seeing Fig. 3) because in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, can not find out.
Belly emulsion sheet 6 has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn move towards along different directions, is made by the cloth with above-mentioned braiding structure, makes stretch yarn form closed loop, and makes non-elastic yarn form open loop.Its top edge 7 is the edges that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and forms reclinate slightly curve.It should be noted, also it can be cut to straight line and form waistline.Alternatively, suitably, need the another kind of fabric of edging finishing to can be used as belly emulsion sheet 6.Under the count of 68 stringer/inches (2.54cm), weave belly emulsion sheet 6 with the nylon yarn of 44 dtexs and the polyurethane yarn of 88 dtexs.Becoming with respect to weaving direction under 40 ° the angle by cutting in abutting connection with the top edge 7 of the belly emulsion sheet 6 of waistline.Therefore the marginal portion that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state all can be made in all clothes marginal portions at waist and bottom line place, and waistband is to make with the sheet that vertical direction has the level difference continuously and not, so that reduce the quantity of stitch points and can obtain to have hardly the waistband of level difference.Especially, the level that can eliminate the edge part office is poor, the cutting angle is for becoming to be at least 3 ° with respect to weaving direction, and cutting is shaped as curve or bellows-shaped, keep the waistline and the bottom line of cutting former state can not wear and tear the waistband applying wearer's body and the displacement of can not curling, and be not easy to box lunch, stringcourse and bottom line can easily be remained in the settling position, and this is preferred.Also can be partly with another kind of stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn braiding or before being inserted into belly emulsion sheet 6 or side-sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 in, thereby the part with less stretching is provided.
As mentioned above, bottom line 2 and waistline 3 are the edges that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and because they do not need the edging finishing and do not use rubber strip etc., therefore waist can be as using rubber strip tightly to be tied up together with linear ground and not increase of thickness, therefore when wearing, realize waist clear profile on every side, and can on skin, not stay the marking of wearing of rubber strip.Around the bottom line part also is similar.Before the side-sidepiece-buttocks-shank emulsion sheet 1 and belly emulsion sheet 6 be not limited to above-mentioned braiding structure, and can have any braiding structure, and be just passable as long as they are the WARP-KNITTINGs that can not wear and tear when keeping the cutting former state.
Example 2
Fig. 4 show the embodiment of clothes according to the present invention short waistband see in the past perspective view from rear side, described short waistband has the edge that does not need edging to repair when keeping the cutting former state.Fig. 5 shows the perspective view that the short waistband of Fig. 4 has been seen from the front side.Fig. 6 is a plane, show on fabric the corresponding side in left side with the wearer of the short waistband shown in Fig. 5 before-cutting wires of sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15.
At Fig. 4 in Fig. 6, before Reference numeral 15 expression covers sides-side at sidepiece-rear portion before-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet, described emulsion sheet in the vertical direction is continuous and is made by a slice that does not have the level difference.Reference numeral 16 expression covers the belly emulsion sheet of bellies, and described emulsion sheet in the vertical direction is continuous and is made by a slice that does not have the level difference.Center sheet before Reference numeral 17 expression, described before the center sheet in the vertical direction be continuous and make by a slice that does not have the level difference.Before the side on left part and the right part-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15 is stitched together by rear center's jointing line 18, and before jointing line 19 places are with side-side margins on the front side of sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15 is sewn onto on the side margins and preceding center sheet 17 of belly emulsion sheet 16.
Line M-N-O-P-Q-M shown on the fabric 20 among Fig. 6 represented in order to before half the side of sheet on the left side that obtains the wearer-cutting wires of sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15, described as the part from the sidepiece of waistband to buttocks.
Although not shown, be used for the side of right half part before-shape of sidepiece-buttocks-emulsion sheet 15 is mirror image symmetric shapes of left-half.Line M-N is stitched into the appropriate section (not shown) that belly emulsion sheet 16 among Fig. 5 and preceding center sheet 17, line P-Q are stitched into the sheet of above-mentioned right half part, forms rear center's jointing line 18.Line O-P is stitched into crotch portion 21.Line N-O forms bottom line, and line Q-M forms waistline.The stitching of the sheet 15 of not shown right half part is similar, because it is symmetrical.By this way, can be made into the waistband shown in Fig. 4 and Fig. 5.
Sheet with the edge that when keeping the cutting former state, does not need the edging finishing as before the side-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15, belly emulsion sheet 16 and preceding center sheet 17.Before constituting side-weaving direction of the WARP-KNITTING of sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15 is by the direction of arrow indication of arrow 14.
Before the side-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15 has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, wherein as shown in Figure 11, nylon yarn and polyurethane yarn move towards along different directions, and are woven under the count of 70 stringer/inches (2.54cm), make stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.Before the polyurethane yarn braiding side with the nylon yarn of 33 dtexs and 77 dtexs-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15.Before the side-do not need the edge of edging finishing to form the edge of bottom line 22 and the edge of waistline 23 during the maintenance cutting former state of sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15.Bottom line 22 is bellows-shaped, and the direction of bottom line 22 is the identical directions of straight line with the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, and and the direction that arrow 12 is indicated, and form 5 ° angle with weaving direction 14.Waistline 23 under with respect to 14 one-tenth about angle [alpha] of 40 ° of weaving direction (cutting angle) by cutting.Waistline 23 is reclinate slightly curve, so as sweep be better than and under the angle below 40 ° by cutting.Under any circumstance, bottom line 22 is all not parallel with waistline 23 and have different shapes.
Bottom line 22 overall under about 5 ° angle (the cutting angle is 180 °-5 °=175 °) by cutting, but total bottom line is tailored to the bellows-shaped with a plurality of ripples, therefore wave molding is surpassing under 5 ° the angle by cutting the angle of 175 ° of cutting angles (that is, less than).Waistline 23 is reclinate slightly curve, and the straight dashed line that connects the Q at place, waistline two ends and M is by the edge of cutting under with respect to the angle (cutting angle) of 14 one-tenth 40 ° of the weaving directions of fabric.Waistline 23 is along the slight curving curve of the downward direction of clothes, so that actual cutting angle is to be better than and in the angle below 40 °.That is to say that the waistline 23 that forms edge, upside place is not parallel to each other with the bottom line 22 that forms edge, downside place.
As mentioned above, the edge 24 at belly emulsion sheet 16 upside places is the edges that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.It has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, as shown in Figure 10, and uses wherein stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all to form the fabric of open loop.Belly emulsion sheet 16 uses the nylon yarn of 44 dtexs and the polyurethane yarn of 154 dtexs, and braiding under the count of 65 stringer/inches (2.54cm).Cutting belly emulsion sheet 16 under the angle at 45 with respect to weaving direction.Before center sheet 17 have 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, as shown in Figure 10, and use wherein stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all to form the fabric of open loop.Preceding center sheet 17 is woven under the count of 70 stringer/inches (2.54cm) by the nylon yarn of 33 dtexs and the polyurethane yarn of 77 dtexs.Before the bottom line 25 of center sheet 17 do not need the edge of edging finishing to make when keeping the cutting former state, and under the angle about 25 ° with respect to weaving direction by cutting.And it is the curve (spill) of downward sag bent, and described sweep be better than and under the angle below 25 ° by cutting.It should be noted that bottom line also can be straight line.And, also can use the edge that do not need the edging finishing by having of obtaining of the conventional method of pulling out yarn knitting.
Therefore all clothes marginal portions at waist and bottom line place all can be by keeping the cutting former state and not having the marginal portion of edging finishing to make, and waistband is with in the vertical direction continuously and do not have the sheet 15 of level difference to make, so that reduce the quantity of sutured portion and can obtain to have the waistband that has the level difference hardly of flat surfaces.Especially, the level that can eliminate the edge part office is poor, the cutting angle is for becoming to be at least 3 ° (180 °-3 °=177 ° or littler) with respect to weaving direction, and cutting is shaped as curve or bellows-shaped, so that waistline and bottom line are when keeping the cutting former state can not wear and tear, waistband applying wearer's body and not curling is not easy to displacement, and waist and bottom line can easily be remained in the settling position, and this is preferred.
As mentioned above, bottom line 22,25 and waistline 23 are the edges that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and because they do not need the edging finishing and do not use rubber strip etc., therefore waist can be as using rubber strip tightly to be tied up together by linear ground and not increase of thickness, realized waist clear profile on every side when wearing, and on skin, do not had the marking of wearing of rubber strip with box lunch.Around the bottom line part also is similar.Before the side-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 15, belly emulsion sheet 16 and preceding center sheet 17 be not limited to above-mentioned braiding structure, and can have any braiding structure, and be just passable as long as they are the WARP-KNITTINGs that can not wear and tear when keeping the cutting former state.
Example 3
Figure 17 is the rearview of the women pants of an embodiment of clothes according to the present invention, and described clothes have the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.Figure 18 is the front view of the women pants shown in Figure 17.Figure 19 is a plane, shows on fabric the cutting wires with the corresponding preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 in the wearer's of the women pants shown in Figure 17 and Figure 18 left side.
In Figure 18 and Figure 19, the preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet at rib abdomen-sidepiece-back before Reference numeral 75 expressions cover, described emulsion sheet in the vertical direction is made continuously and by a slice that does not have the level difference.Reference numeral 76 expressions cover the belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet of belly and crotch portion, and described emulsion sheet in the vertical direction is made continuously and by a slice that does not have the level difference.Preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 on left part and the right part is stitched together by rear center's jointing line 78, and at jointing line 79 places the side margins on the front side of preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 is sewn onto on the part of side margins of belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76.
Line M-N-O-P-Q-M shown on the fabric 70 among Figure 19 has represented in order to half the cutting wires of preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 of sheet on the left side that obtains the wearer, and described as the part from the sidepiece of women pants to buttocks.
Although not shown, the shape that is used for the preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 of right half part is the left-right symmetry shape that is used for the part of left-half.The appropriate section (not shown) that line M-N is stitched on the part of the belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76 among Figure 18, line P-Q is stitched into the sheet of above-mentioned right half part forms rear center's jointing line 78.Line O-P is stitched into the crotch rear portion 81 of belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76.Line N-O forms bottom line (among the online N-O, line N-R is that preceding bottom line 84, line R-O are back bottom lines 82), and line Q-M forms waistline 83.The stitching of the sheet 75 of not shown right half part is similar, because it is symmetrical.By this way, can be made into the women pants shown in Figure 18 and Figure 19.
The sheet that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state is as preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 and belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76.The weaving direction of the WARP-KNITTING of rib abdomen-sidepiece before constituting-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 is by the direction of arrow indication of arrow 74.
For preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 and belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76, the fabric of base portion braiding has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, wherein the polyurethane yarn of the nylon yarn of 33 dtexs and 77 dtexs moves towards along equidirectional, form closed loop, and under the count of 63 stringer/inches (2.54cm), woven.The nylon yarn of 33 dtexs is as the decorative pattern yarn, and described decorative pattern yarn is subjected to jacquard weave control so that form meticulous big jacquard weave weavy grain (the flower pattern with 4cm maximum gauge) 77.The part that the decorative pattern yarn does not form pattern has wherein the decorative pattern yarn along 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of the direction trend different with the stretch yarn that forms closed loop, and is formed with therein in the part of meticulous big jacquard weave weavy grain, forms flower pattern 77 by the chain skill of handling needles.It should be noted that the part that is formed with meticulous big jacquard weave weavy grain also can be the satin weave skill of handling needles.
When keeping the cutting former state, do not need the edge of the preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 of edging finishing to form edge and the edge of back bottom line 82 and the edge of waistline 82 of bottom line 84.Back bottom line 82 is bellows-shaped, and the direction of back bottom line 82 is the identical directions of straight line with the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, and and the direction that arrow 72 is indicated, and the angle of formation and 74 one-tenth 5 ° of weaving directions.As shown in Figure 19, preceding bottom line 84 (N-R) has slightly the irregular curve shape to upper process.Waistline 83 under with respect to the angle [alpha] (cutting angle) of 74 one-tenth 3 ° of weaving directions by cutting.Therefore, bottom line 82 and waistline 83 are not parallel.
As mentioned above, the edge 85 at belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76 upside places is the edges that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.For fabric, use identical fabric with meticulous big jacquard weave weavy grain identical with preceding rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75.
Not shown belly-the weaving direction of crotch portion emulsion sheet 76 and the direction at cutting edge, but belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76 promptly, is made its top edge 85 form the angle at 45 with respect to weaving direction by so cutting.
Therefore all clothes marginal portions at waist and bottom line place all can be by keeping the cutting former state and not having the marginal portion of edging finishing to make, and women pants are with in the vertical direction continuously and do not have the sheet of level difference to make, so that reduce the quantity of sutured portion and can obtain the women pants that almost do not have the level difference that have little flower pattern and have flat surfaces.Especially, the level that can eliminate the marginal portion is poor, the cutting angle is for becoming to be at least 3 ° (180 °-3 °=177 ° or littler) with respect to weaving direction, and cutting is shaped as curve or bellows-shaped, so that waistline and bottom line can not wear and tear when keeping the cutting former state, waistband applying wearer's body and can not curling is not easy to displacement, and waist and bottom line can easily be remained in the settling position, and this is preferred.
As mentioned above, bottom line 82,84 and waistline 83 are the edges that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and because they do not need the edging finishing and do not use rubber strip etc., therefore waist can be as using rubber strip tightly to be tied up together by linear ground and not increase of thickness, realized waist clear profile on every side when wearing, and on skin, do not had the marking of wearing of rubber strip with box lunch.Around the bottom line part also is similar.Before rib abdomen-sidepiece-buttocks emulsion sheet 75 and belly-crotch portion emulsion sheet 76 be not limited to above-mentioned braiding structure, and can have any braiding structure, just passable as long as they are the WARP-KNITTINGs that can not wear and tear when keeping the cutting former state.
Example 4
Fig. 7 is the perspective view that the major part of the brassiere of an embodiment of clothes according to the present invention has been seen from the front side, and described clothes have the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.In Fig. 7, can stretch lining cloth, Reference numeral 31 expressions be used to connect left and right sides lining cloth when wear described brassiere coupling part, figure elements 29 of Reference numeral 26 expression represents that breast cups and Reference numeral 30 represent shoulder belts.The lining cloth 26 that can stretch is the sheets that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and is made by the continuous a slice of in the vertical direction.The weaving direction that constitutes the WARP-KNITTING of this sheet is the indicated direction of arrow 34.If weaving direction is the direction of the big width from the less width of lining cloth to lining cloth, cloth can be from the cutting of braiding origination side, so that not easy to wear so.It should be noted that although not shown, the weaving direction that is positioned at the lining cloth on the wearer right side is the rightabout direction of directional arrow 34 directions.That is to say that weaving direction is the direction of the big width from the less width of lining cloth to lining cloth.
The lining cloth 26 that can stretch has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein as shown in Figure 11, the polyurethane yarn of the nylon yarn of 33 dtexs and 44 dtexs moves towards along different directions, and is woven to such an extent that make stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn form closed loop.The lining cloth 26 that can stretch weaves under the count of 63 stringer/inches (2.54cm).
Not needing the edge of the stretched lining cloth 26 of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state is the lower edge 28 of lining cloth and the part of top edge 27.Lower edge 28 and top edge 27 all are the bellows-shaped with a plurality of ripples.For bellows-shaped, projection and recessed portion are arranged with identical distance substantially and have essentially identical height in top edge 27 and lower edge 28, and appear at identical position at the top substantially with the bottom.That is to say, bellows-shaped is substantially with respect to center line mirror image symmetry, described center line is divided lining cloth equally as line of symmetry and is the first half and the latter half, if thereby make to have the ledge of being directed upwards towards in top edge 27,28 ledges of lower edge with downward sensing, if and have the recessed portion of downward sensing in top edge 27,28 of lower edge have the recessed portion that is directed upwards towards.It should be noted that in this example, lining cloth 26 is connected to the cup part, form the brassiere that does not have bottom cup cloth.Under the situation of brassiere with bottom cup cloth that the cloth that is connected with bottom cup fabric by lining cloth wherein makes, wave molding should be substantially with respect to center line mirror image symmetry, and described center line is divided lining cloth equally at the back portion place in the bottom cup part outside and is the first half and the latter half.
Do not need the lining cloth of edging finishing or the edge, upper and lower of bottom cup cloth to be not limited to bellows-shaped, and can be straight line or the curved shape except that bellows-shaped yet.And bellows-shaped can be even or uneven bellows-shaped.And the shape at edge, upper and lower can be identical or different.The direction of the edge line of the lower edge 28 of lining cloth 26 is the identical directions of straight line with the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, the direction that arrow 32 is indicated, and formation becomes 6 ° angle with weaving direction.The direction of the edge line of the top edge of lining cloth 27 is the identical directions of straight line with the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, the direction that arrow 33 is indicated, and formation becomes 6 ° angle with weaving direction.That is to say, do not need the line at edge, upper and lower of lining cloth of edging finishing not parallel each other when constitute keeping the cutting former state.It should be noted that edge line is a bellows-shaped, so that in the part that surpasses cutting bellows-shaped under 6 ° the angle.The most wide degree of lining cloth is set to 9cm and the narrowest width is set to 4cm.
In the lining cloth of traditional brassiere, edge, upper and lower along lining cloth 26 is provided with rubber strip, but rubber strip is not sewed up at the edge, upper and lower of the lining cloth 26 of the brassiere of present embodiment, therefore can be owing to any rubber strip increases thickness, and when wearing, realized the clear profile around the chest, and on skin, do not stayed the marking of wearing of rubber strip.Therefore, lining cloth applying health, and the marginal portion fits tightly health and do not roll up body, and the displacement when mobile is reduced to minimum, prevents the clothes landing.
In order to increase the intensity of lining cloth, also can be by bonding and two vertical continuous sheets are laminated together with resin etc.Also available a slice cloth forms lining cloth, but in the present embodiment, has used with identical shaped two similar of having of resin-bonding.When two sheets being bonded together,, they more easily can be bonded together if they stackedly must make that the weaving direction of these two sheets is identical with resin.If at these two vertical continuous sheets by being bonded together by cutting lining cloth sheet after the lamination, edge part branch is very neat so.If lining cloth is to make with two sheets that are bonded together in addition, these two sheets are bonded into one, and the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge do not need the edging finishing, lining cloth is made by vertical continuous cloth, have an even surface and from the top edge to the lower edge between do not have level poor, and when wearing, do not have local pressure.In addition when making by a slice, fabric as the lining cloth sheet is the fabric that its cutting marginal portion is not easy to wear and tear, and because it is cut into shape and the angle that can not wear and tear the marginal portion, so the cutting end at edge, upper and lower is neat, and the yarn end can be from wherein outstanding.
Example 5
Fig. 8 is the perspective view of the brassiere major part of an embodiment of clothes according to the present invention, and described clothes have the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.Fig. 9 is a plane, shows on fabric the cutting wires with the wearer's of the brassiere shown in Fig. 8 the corresponding lining cloth sheet 35 in left side.In Fig. 8, can stretch core before lining cloth, Reference numeral 38 expression end cups parts, Reference numeral 39 expressions, Reference numeral 42 expressions be used to connect left and right sides lining cloth when wear described brassiere coupling part, Reference numeral 40 expression breast cups, Reference numeral 40 of Reference numeral 35 expression represents that shoulder belts and Reference numeral 43 represent that left front cores and right front core are sewn to position together.Lining cloth part, end cup part and preceding core are made by the continuous cloth of a slice.The lining cloth 35 that can stretch is the sheets that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and makes vertically going up continuous a slice cloth.The weaving direction that constitutes the WARP-KNITTING of this sheet is the indicated direction (see figure 9) of arrow 46.
Lining cloth 35 has 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and wherein the polyurethane yarn of the nylon yarn of 33 dtexs and 44 dtexs moves towards along different directions, and is woven to such an extent that make stretch yarn form open loop, and non-elastic yarn forms closed loop.Lining cloth 35 is braidings under the count of 63 stringer/inches (2.54cm).
Not needing the edge of the lining cloth 35 of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state is the lower edge 37 of lining cloth and the part of top edge 36.Lower edge 37 and top edge 36 all are the bellows-shaped with a plurality of ripples.For bellows-shaped, a plurality of different projections and recessed portion with identical distance and essentially identical height placement in top edge 36 and lower edge 37.That is to say that if top edge 36 has the projection that is directed upwards towards, 37 of lower edge have the recessed portion that is directed upwards towards, and if top edge 36 have the recessed portion of downward sensing, 37 projections of lower edge with downward sensing.Therefore, lower edge 37 has similar bellows-shaped with top edge 36, and whole lining cloth also is a bellows-shaped.It should be noted that in this example, lining cloth 35, end cup part and preceding core are made by continuous cloth.That edge on the downside of end cup part and preceding core can be bellows-shaped or have a rectilinear form.If the stretching of preceding core is stopped, the outer surface of so preceding core should be laminated to the cloth that is not ductile.
The direction of the edge line of the lower edge 37 of lining cloth 35 is the identical directions of straight line with the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, the direction that arrow 45 is indicated, and formation becomes 85 ° angle (cutting angle) with weaving direction.The direction of the edge line of the top edge of lining cloth 36 is the identical directions of straight line with the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, the direction that arrow 44 is indicated, and formation becomes 95 ° angle (cutting angle) with weaving direction.That is to say, do not need the line at edge, upper and lower of lining cloth of edging finishing not parallel each other when constitute keeping the cutting former state.It should be noted, because edge line is a bellows-shaped, therefore the bellows-shaped of the edge line of lower edge 37 part is being better than and is dropping under the angle below 85 ° by cutting, and the bellows-shaped of the edge line of top edge 36 part is being better than and is dropping under the angle below 95 ° by cutting.End cup part 38 and preceding core 39 under less than 85 ° angle by cutting.The bellows-shaped of end cup part 38 part is being better than and is dropping under 85 ° the angle by cutting.
Reference numeral 53 expression shoulder belt attachment positions.By making shoulder belt 41 pass the shoulder belt attachment band at shoulder belt attachment position 53 places, shoulder belt attachment position 53 is folded into two and its front end is sewn onto adheres to shoulder belt 41 on the lining cloth 35.Shoulder belt attachment position 53 is mutually continuous with lining cloth 35, and is cut into a slice with lining cloth.Its marginal portion keeps the cutting former state and does not need the edging finishing.The most wide degree of lining cloth 35 is set to 9cm and the narrowest width is set to 4cm.
In the lining cloth of traditional brassiere, edge, upper and lower along lining cloth 35 is provided with rubber strip, but rubber strip is not sewed up at the edge, upper and lower of the lining cloth 35 of the brassiere of present embodiment, therefore can be owing to any rubber strip increases thickness, and when wearing, realized the clear profile around the chest, and on skin, can not leave the marking of wearing of rubber strip.Therefore, lining cloth applying health, and the marginal portion fits tightly health and less than curling, the displacement when mobile is reduced to minimum, prevents that clothes are loosening.
In order to increase the intensity of lining cloth, also can be by being bonded together and with two vertical continuous sheet laminations with resin etc.Also available a slice cloth forms lining cloth, but in the present embodiment, used with resin-bonding together and lamination have identical shaped two similar.
When with resin two sheets being bonded together, if they stackedly must make that the weaving direction of these two sheets is identical, they can more easily be bonded together.If the lining cloth sheet at these two vertical continuous sheets by being bonded together by cutting after the lamination, edge part branch is very neat so.If lining cloth is to use two sheets of the lamination by being bonded together to make in addition, these two sheets are stacked and be bonded into a slice, and the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge do not need the edging finishing, lining cloth is made by vertical continuous cloth, have an even surface and from the top edge to the lower edge between do not have level poor, and when wearing, do not have local pressure.In addition when making by a slice, it is the cloth that its cutting marginal portion is not easy to wear and tear, and because it is cut into shape and the angle that can not wear and tear the marginal portion, so the cutting end at edge, upper and lower is neat, and the yarn end can be from wherein outstanding.
Example 6
Make a kind of brassiere in substantially identical mode with example 4.Mainly be with example 4 differences, when these two sheets that form lining cloth be bonded together by thermal adhesive resin and by lamination so that when strengthening the intensity of lining cloth, use two sheets that sheet is made that are equivalent to aforesaid the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) by lamination.
Except as otherwise noted, otherwise other aspects are all similar with Fig. 7 to example 4, therefore omitted being repeated in this description for similar aspect.
The lining cloth sheet that uses manufacturing as described below as with corresponding of above-mentioned the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) of the sheet that forms lining cloth: the cotton yarn that uses to have 80 counts of yarn is made two WARP-KNITTINGs as non-elastic yarn and 78 dtex polyurethane yarns as stretch yarn (usage rate is the cotton of 65wt% and the polyurethane of 35wt%), wherein non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure), and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure, non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop, as shown in Figure 12 and Figure 13, and the count in the stringer is 65/ inch (65 stringer/inch (2.54cm)).Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to structure and the similar shapes similar to the lining cloth 26 shown in Fig. 7.
In the lining cloth of traditional brassiere, edge, upper and lower along lining cloth 26 is provided with rubber strip, but there is not rubber strip to be sewn onto the edge, upper and lower of lining cloth 26 of the brassiere of present embodiment, therefore can be owing to any rubber strip increases thickness, and when wearing, realized clear profile, and on skin, can not leave the marking of wearing of rubber strip around chest.Therefore, lining cloth applying health, and the marginal portion fits tightly health and do not roll up body, and the displacement when mobile is reduced to minimum, prevents that clothes are loosening.
Because lining cloth is to be made by two-layer fabrics laminated together, therefore tearing strength is big, and the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge do not need the edging finishing, lining cloth is made by vertical continuous fabric, have an even surface and from the top edge to the lower edge between do not have level poor, and when wearing, do not have local pressure.As the fabric of lining cloth sheet is the fabric that its cutting marginal portion is not easy to wear and tear, and because it is cut into shape and the angle that can not wear and tear the marginal portion, so the cutting end at edge, upper and lower is neat, and the yarn end can be from wherein outstanding.And, fabric as the lining cloth sheet uses cotton yarn as non-elastic yarn, and because the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge are not easy to wearing and tearing and use cotton yarn, therefore has such effect, promptly, sense of touch for skin is good, has increased snugness of fit and absorption of perspiration and gas permeability height.Usually, when using cotton yarn, be difficult to increase count, but be to use the stretch yarn that is used for the half hitch structure, than the contraction that more can strengthen stretch yarn in the single sley bar warp plain stitch structure.Therefore, can strengthen the count of overall material, and can provide its edge when keeping the cutting former state, not need finishing but still the material that have essential ductility of edging.
Another embodiment as this example, when the lining cloth sheet that uses following mode to make, can guarantee identical effect basically, described mode is promptly: use braiding structure same as described above to make two WARP-KNITTINGs, wherein non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure) and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure, non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop, and the count in the stringer is 65/ inch (counts of 65 stringer/inches (2.54cm)).Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to structure and the similar shapes similar with the lining cloth 35 shown in Fig. 9 to example 5 and Fig. 8.
It should be noted, in this example, with corresponding two sheets of above-mentioned the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) by lamination, and use two sheets that are bonded together by resin binder that it is consolidated, the situation than the use individual layer more is not easy to wear and tear like this.It should be noted, in this example, use cotton yarn conduct and the corresponding non-elastic yarn of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), but also can use nylon yarn or Polyester Yarns.Especially, when having the nylon yarn that is at least 55 dtex thickness or Polyester Yarns as non-elastic yarn, so aforesaid stretch yarn is woven into the count that the half hitch structure can increase fabric, and do not need when keeping the cutting former state can prevent from the edge of edging finishing to be easy to wearing and tearing, this is preferred.
It should be noted, use the two-layer fabrics of lamination to be not limited to the lining cloth of brassiere, but also can be used for making bottom, lingerie and underwear such as women pants and waistband as the sheet that forms clothes.
Example 7
Make a kind of brassiere in substantially identical mode with example 4.Mainly be with example 4 differences, when these two sheets that form lining cloth be bonded together by thermal adhesive resin and by lamination so that when strengthening the intensity of lining cloth, use by two sheets of lamination, promptly, a sheet that sheet is made with being equivalent to a sheet of above-mentioned the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) that is equivalent to above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) is so that be formed on the skin side with (B-1) corresponding.
Except as otherwise noted, otherwise other aspects are all similar with Fig. 7 to example 4, therefore omitted being repeated in this description for similar aspect.
Have 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count WARP-KNITTING as with corresponding of above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) of the sheet that forms lining cloth, described WARP-KNITTING use nylon yarn with 44 dtexs as the polyurethane yarn of non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs as stretch yarn (usage rate is cotton yarn and the 35wt% polyurethane yarn of 65wt%), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn and all form closed loop.Have 60 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count (counts of 60 stringer/inches (2.54cm)) WARP-KNITTING as and form corresponding of above-mentioned the 3rd WARP-KNITTING of lining cloth (B-1) sheet, described WARP-KNITTING use cotton yarn with 80 counts of yarn as non-elastic yarn and the polyurethane yarn that uses 78 dtexs as stretch yarn (usage rate is cotton and the 35wt% polyurethane of 65wt%), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop, as shown in Figure 12 and Figure 13.Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to structure and the similar shapes similar to the lining cloth 26 shown in Fig. 7.
In the lining cloth of traditional brassiere, edge, upper and lower along lining cloth 26 is provided with rubber strip, but there is not rubber strip to be sewn onto the edge, upper and lower of lining cloth 26 of the brassiere of present embodiment, therefore can be owing to any rubber strip increases thickness, and when wearing, realized clear profile, and on skin, can not leave the marking of wearing of rubber strip around chest.Therefore, lining cloth applying health, and the marginal portion fits tightly health and less than curling, the displacement when mobile is reduced to minimum, prevents that clothes are loosening.
Because lining cloth is to be made by two-layer fabrics laminated together, therefore tearing strength is big, and the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge do not need the edging finishing, lining cloth is made by vertical continuous fabric, have an even surface and from the top edge to the lower edge between do not have level poor, and when wearing, do not have local pressure.As the fabric of lining cloth sheet is the cloth that its cutting marginal portion is not easy to wear and tear, and because it is cut into shape and the angle that can not wear and tear the marginal portion, so the cutting end at edge, upper and lower is neat, and the yarn end can be from wherein outstanding.And, use cotton yarn as non-elastic yarn as the lining cloth sheet corresponding to the fabric of (B-1), and because the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge is not easy to wear and tear and use the fabric corresponding to (B-1) of cotton yarn to be arranged on skin side, therefore has such effect, promptly, sense of touch for skin is good, has increased snugness of fit and absorption of perspiration height.Usually, when using cotton yarn, be difficult to increase count, but be to use stretch yarn to be used for the half hitch structure, than the contraction that more can strengthen stretch yarn in the single sley bar warp plain stitch structure.Therefore, can strengthen the count of overall material, and can provide its edge when keeping the cutting former state, not need finishing but still the material that have essential ductility of edging.
Another embodiment as this example, when the lining cloth sheet that uses following mode to make, can guarantee identical effect basically, described mode promptly: use count and have the WARP-KNITTING conduct and corresponding of above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) of braiding structure same as described above with 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm).Described WARP-KNITTING weaves as stretch yarn (usage rate is the nylon yarn of 65wt% and the polyurethane yarn of 35wt%) with the polyurethane yarn of the nylon yarn with 44 dtexs as non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs, non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, be arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop.Use has the WARP-KNITTING conduct and the corresponding fabric of above-mentioned the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) of the count (counts of 60 stringer/inches (2.54cm)) of 60 stringer/inches (2.54cm), described WARP-KNITTING weaves as stretch yarn (usage rate is the cotton of 65wt% and the polyurethane of 35wt%) with the polyurethane yarn of the cotton yarn with 80 counts of yarn as non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs, non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop.Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to structure and the similar shapes similar with the lining cloth 35 shown in Fig. 9 to example 5 and Fig. 8.
It should be noted, in this example, with corresponding of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) as be arranged in corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) go up and be laminated to corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) on sheet, but also can use and corresponding of corresponding replacement of second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) and first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) as mentioned above.
It should be noted, use the two-layer fabrics of lamination to be not limited to the lining cloth of brassiere, but also can be used for making bottom, lingerie and underwear such as women pants and waistband as the sheet that forms clothes.
Example 8
Make a kind of brassiere in substantially identical mode with example 4.Mainly be with example 4 differences, when these two sheets that form lining cloth be bonded together by thermal adhesive resin and by lamination so that when strengthening the intensity of lining cloth, use by two sheets of lamination, promptly, a sheet that sheet is made with being equivalent to a sheet of above-mentioned (B-2) that is equivalent to above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) is so that be formed on skin side with (B-2) corresponding.
Except as otherwise noted, otherwise other aspects are all similar with Fig. 7 to example 4, therefore omitted being repeated in this description for similar aspect.
Use have 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count WARP-KNITTING as with corresponding of above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) of the sheet that forms lining cloth, braiding forms as stretch yarn (usage rate is 65wt% cotton yarn and 35wt% polyurethane yarn) as the polyurethane yarn of non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs with the nylon yarn with 44 dtexs for described WARP-KNITTING, non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, form 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop.Use have 70 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count (counts of 70 stringer/inches (2.54cm)) WARP-KNITTING as with corresponding of above-mentioned the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2) of the sheet that forms lining cloth, described WARP-KNITTING weaves as stretch yarn (usage rate is the cotton and 35wt% polyurethane of 65wt%) as the polyurethane yarn of non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs with the nylon yarn with 44 dtexs and forms, non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure) and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure (in this example, be four row satin weaves), as shown in Figure 14 and Figure 15.Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to structure and the similar shapes similar to the lining cloth 26 shown in Fig. 7.
In the lining cloth of traditional brassiere, edge, upper and lower along lining cloth 26 is provided with rubber strip, but there is not rubber strip to be sewn onto the edge, upper and lower of lining cloth 26 of the brassiere of present embodiment, therefore can be owing to any rubber strip increases thickness, and when wearing, realized clear profile, and on skin, can not leave the marking of wearing of rubber strip around chest.Therefore, lining cloth applying health, and the marginal portion fits tightly health and less than curling, the displacement when mobile is reduced to minimum, prevents that clothes are loosening.
Lining cloth is to be made by above-mentioned two-layer fabrics laminated together, so its tearing strength is big.Especially, when stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure when being used for corresponding of the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2), braiding structure is firm so, and lining cloth has the basic physical characteristic of tear-proof, and is not easy to wearing and tearing.The top edge of the lining cloth of this example and lower edge do not need edging finishing, and lining cloth is made by vertical continuous fabric, have an even surface and from the top edge to the lower edge between do not have level poor, and when wearing, do not have local pressure.
If stretch yarn is formed the satin weave structure, the end is easier to curl than the situation of single sley bar warp plain stitch's structure or half hitch structure so.In order to prevent to curl, preferably become the described cutting of cutting end under 30 ° to the 110 ° angles in the scope at weaving direction with respect to material.All positions that when forming clothes, become described clothes marginal portion preferably all in this angular region by cutting.And more preferably become described clothes marginal portion and under long edge length by all positions of cutting all in 40 ° to 90 ° scopes by cutting.Even all positions that more preferably become described clothes marginal portion all can be by cutting in 40 ° to 90 ° scopes.
When being tailored to the bellows-shaped of a plurality of continuous arcs by the position of cutting in can not the angular region 40 ° to 90 ° or 30 ° to 110 °, they are not easy to wearing and tearing.
Another embodiment as this example; when the lining cloth sheet that uses following mode to obtain, can guarantee to obtain identical effect, described mode promptly: use count and have the WARP-KNITTING conduct and corresponding of above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) of braiding structure same as described above with 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm).Described WARP-KNITTING weaves as stretch yarn (usage rate is 65wt% nylon yarn and 35wt% polyurethane) with the polyurethane yarn of the nylon yarn with 44 dtexs as non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs, non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn are along equidirectional trend and form 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop.Use has the WARP-KNITTING conduct and the corresponding fabric of above-mentioned the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2) of the count (counts of 70 stringer/inches (2.54cm)) of 70 stringer/inches (2.54cm), described WARP-KNITTING weaves as stretch yarn (usage rate is the cotton and 35wt% polyurethane of 65wt%) with the polyurethane yarn of the nylon yarn with 44 dtexs as non-elastic yarn and 44 dtexs, non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure), and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure (in this example, be four row satin weaves), as shown in Figure 14 and 15.Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to structure and the similar shapes similar with the lining cloth 35 shown in Fig. 9 to example 5 and Fig. 8.
It should be noted, in above-mentioned example, with corresponding of the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2) as be arranged in corresponding of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) go up and be laminated to corresponding of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) on sheet, but as mentioned above, also can use and corresponding of corresponding replacement of second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) and first WARP-KNITTING (A-1), and also can use and corresponding of corresponding replacement of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) and the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2).
It should be noted, use the two-layer fabrics of lamination to be not limited to the lining cloth of brassiere, but also can be used for making bottom, lingerie and underwear such as women pants and waistband as the sheet that forms clothes.
Example 9
Figure 20 is the perspective view of the major part of the brassiere of an embodiment of clothes according to the present invention, and described clothes have the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.Figure 21 is a plane, shows on fabric the cutting wires with the wearer's of the brassiere shown in Figure 20 the corresponding lining cloth sheet 95 in left side.In Figure 20, can stretch core before lining cloth, Reference numeral 98 expression end cups parts, Reference numeral 99 expressions, Reference numeral 102 expressions be used to connect left and right sides lining cloth when wear described brassiere coupling part, Reference numeral 100 expression breast cups, Reference numeral 101 of Reference numeral 95 expression represents that shoulder belts and Reference numeral 103 represent that left front cores and right front core are sewn to position together.Lining cloth part, end cup part and preceding core are made by the continuous cloth of a slice.The lining cloth 95 that can stretch is the sheets that do not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and is made by vertically continuous cloth.The weaving direction that constitutes the WARP-KNITTING of this sheet is the indicated direction (seeing Figure 21) of arrow 106.
95 uses of lining cloth part are bonded together by thermal adhesive resin and are formed the lining cloth parts by lamination so that strengthen two sheets of the intensity of lining cloth, promptly, be equivalent to a sheet of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and be equivalent to a sheet of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), so that be formed on skin side with corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1).
Use have 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count WARP-KNITTING as with corresponding of above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) of the sheet that forms lining cloth, braiding forms as stretch yarn as the polyurethane yarn of non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs with the nylon yarn with 44 dtexs for described WARP-KNITTING, non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, form 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop.Use have 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count (counts of 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm)) WARP-KNITTING as with corresponding of above-mentioned the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) of the sheet that forms lining cloth, described WARP-KNITTING weaves as stretch yarn (usage rate is the polyurethane of the cotton and 35wt% of the % of 65wt) as the polyurethane yarn of non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs with the cotton yarn with 80 counts of yarn and forms, non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure), and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop, as shown in Figure 12 and Figure 13.Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to the shape of the lining cloth 95 shown in Figure 21.
The edge that does not need the edging finishing during maintenance cutting former state of lining cloth 95 is the part (abbreviating " top edge " as) at the edge 96 on the upside of the part (abbreviating " lower edge " as) at the edge 97 on the downside of lining cloth and lining cloth.Lower edge 97 and top edge 96 all are that the bellows-shaped by a plurality of ripples forms.
In the lower edge 97 and top edge 96 of lining cloth, the recessed and bossing of bellows-shaped occurs with essentially identical interval.If the bellows-shaped of top edge 96 has the projection that is directed upwards towards, the bellows-shaped of lower edge 97 has downward sensing projection, on the contrary, if the bellows-shaped of top edge has the projection (recessed portion that is directed upwards towards) of downward sensing, 97 of lower edge have the projection (recessed portion that points to downwards) that is directed upwards towards.Therefore, the protrusion of the top edge of lining cloth and its lower edge and recessed portion are symmetrical substantially with respect to the line of lining cloth being divided equally for the first half and the latter half.And the curved shape that is formed on each ripple of the bellows-shaped in the lining cloth is gentle curve (curve with macrobending radius), and is formed on the gentle bellows-shaped that the bellows-shaped aspect has longer wavelength and low height difference.In other words, its shape is similar to the shape of beanpod.By bellows-shaped being made in the gentle bellows-shaped that has long wavelength and low height difference aspect the bellows-shaped, can improve the body fit of lining cloth, prevent the upset of marginal portion, upper and lower, and can prevent the tearing of slot part office of incident especially bellows-shaped.
And, protrusion and the recessed portion of ignoring each bellows-shaped, the top edge 96 of lining cloth 95 forms outstanding on the whole gentle curve downwards, and in this gentle sweep, have gentle corrugated sweep, and ignore the protrusion and the recessed portion of each bellows-shaped, the lower edge 97 of lining cloth 95 forms the gentle curve that projects upwards on the whole, and in this gentle sweep, have four gentle corrugated sweeps.
Therefore, the direction of the edge line at the edge 97 on the downside of lining cloth 95 has the integrally bending shape, so that it has and end that more is close to breast cup and the identical direction of straight line that is close to the end of coupling part 102 in order to the lower edge 97 that connects lining cloth, promptly, direction shown in the arrow 105, and form 85 ° angle (cutting angle) with respect to weaving direction.The direction of the edge line at the edge 96 on the upside is and the identical direction of straight line in order to the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, and and the direction shown in the arrow 104, and form 105 ° angle (cutting angle) with respect to weaving direction.That is to say that the line at the edge, upper and lower that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of formation lining cloth is not parallel each other.It should be noted that because edge line is bellows-shaped, so the bellows-shaped of the edge line of lower limb 97 part is being better than and is dropping under the angle below 85 ° by cutting.The bellows-shaped of the edge line of top edge 96 part is being better than and is dropping under the angle below 105 ° by cutting.End cup part 98 and preceding core 99 are becoming with respect to weaving direction under 75 ° the angle by cutting.
Reference numeral 113 expression shoulder belt attachment positions.Shoulder belt 101 is attached to the end of this shoulder belt attachment position 113.Shoulder belt attachment position 113 is mutually continuous with lining cloth 95, and with the lining cloth cutting in a slice.Its marginal portion keeps the cutting former state and does not need the edging finishing.The most wide degree of lining cloth 95 is set to 9cm and the narrowest width is set to 4cm.
In the lining cloth of traditional brassiere, edge, upper and lower along lining cloth 95 is provided with rubber strip, but there is not rubber strip to be sewn onto the edge, upper and lower of lining cloth 95 of the brassiere of present embodiment, so that can be owing to any rubber strip increases thickness, and when wearing, realized clear profile around chest, and the rubber strip that on skin, can not leave wear the marking.Therefore, lining cloth applying health, and the marginal portion fits tightly health and less than curling, the displacement when mobile is reduced to minimum, prevents that clothes are loosening.And overturn in the marginal portion that can effectively prevent lining cloth.
Because lining cloth is to be made by two-layer fabrics laminated together, therefore tearing strength is big, the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge do not need the edging finishing, lining cloth is made by vertical continuous cloth, have an even surface and from the top edge to the lower edge between do not have level poor, and when wearing, do not have local pressure.As the fabric of lining cloth sheet is the fabric that its cutting marginal portion is not easy to wear and tear, and because it is cut into shape and the angle that can not wear and tear the marginal portion, so the cutting end at edge, upper and lower is neat, and the yarn end can be from wherein outstanding.And, use cotton yarn as non-elastic yarn with the corresponding fabric of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) that is used as the lining cloth sheet, and because the top edge and the lower edge of lining cloth are not easy to wear and tear and use being disposed on the skin side with the corresponding fabric of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) of cotton yarn, therefore has such effect, promptly, sense of touch for skin is good, has increased snugness of fit and absorption of perspiration height.Usually, when using cotton yarn, be difficult to increase count, but be used for the half hitch structure of stretch yarn, more can strengthen the contraction of stretch yarn in the comparable single sley bar warp plain stitch structure by use.Therefore, can strengthen the count of overall material, and can provide its edge when keeping the cutting former state, not need finishing but still the material that have essential ductility of edging.
It should be noted, in above-mentioned example, with corresponding of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) as be arranged in corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) go up and be laminated to corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) on sheet, but also can use and corresponding of corresponding replacement of second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) and first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) as mentioned above.And, also can use another kind of non-elastic yarn, replace cotton yarn with corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) such as nylon yarn and Polyester Yarns.
It should be noted, use the two-layer fabrics of lamination to be not limited to the lining cloth of brassiere, but also can be used for making bottom, lingerie and underwear such as women pants and waistband as the sheet that forms clothes.
Count (stringer), the yarn feeding of non-elastic yarn of WARP-KNITTING of sheet that is used for foregoing example and the yarn feeding of stretch yarn are shown in following chart 1.
Example 10
Figure 22 is the perspective view of the major part of the brassiere of an embodiment of clothes according to the present invention, and described clothes have the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.In this example, omitted such plane, described plane is illustrated on the fabric cutting wires with the wearer's of the brassiere shown in Figure 20 the corresponding lining cloth sheet in left side.Its shape is slightly different, but has substantially the same weaving direction and identical edge line direction
In Figure 22, Reference numeral 130 expression breast cups, Reference numeral 125 expressions preceding center fabric, Reference numeral 132 expressions that lining cloth, Reference numeral 129 expressions connect left and right sides breast cups are used to connect left and right sides lining cloth when wear described brassiere coupling part and the Reference numeral 131 that can stretch represented shoulder belts.The lining cloth 125 that can stretch comprises the sheet that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and is made by vertically continuous cloth.The weaving direction that constitutes the WARP-KNITTING of this sheet is the indicated direction of arrow 136.
125 uses of lining cloth part are bonded together by thermal adhesive resin and are formed the lining cloth parts by lamination so that strengthen two sheets of the intensity of lining cloth, promptly, be equivalent to a sheet of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and be equivalent to a sheet of (B1), so that be formed on skin side with corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1).
Use have 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count WARP-KNITTING as with corresponding of above-mentioned first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) of the sheet that forms lining cloth, braiding forms as stretch yarn as the polyurethane yarn of non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs with the nylon yarn with 44 dtexs for described WARP-KNITTING, non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, form 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop.Use have 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm) count (counts of 75 stringer/inches (2.54cm)) WARP-KNITTING as with corresponding of above-mentioned the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) of the sheet that forms lining cloth, braiding forms as stretch yarn (usage rate is the cotton of 65wt% and the polyurethane of 35wt%) as the polyurethane yarn of non-elastic yarn and 78 dtexs with the cotton yarn with 80 counts of yarn for described WARP-KNITTING, non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure (single sley bar warp plain stitch structure) and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all form closed loop, as shown in Figure 12 and Figure 13.Two kinds of one in fabrics are stacked on another so that their weaving direction is identical and with resin they are bonded together, and then it are cut to the shape of lining cloth.
The edge that does not need the edging finishing during maintenance cutting former state of lining cloth 125 is the part (abbreviating " top edge " as) at the edge 126 on the upside of the part (abbreviating " lower edge " as) at the edge 127 on the downside of lining cloth and lining cloth.Lower edge 127 and top edge 126 all are that the bellows-shaped by a plurality of ripples forms.
In this example of present embodiment, the bellows-shaped of the bellows-shaped of the top edge 126 of lining cloth and the lower edge 127 of lining cloth is different.The bellows-shaped of top edge 126 has three protrusion shape parts of points upwards, and the bellows-shaped of lower edge 127 has five protrusion shape parts of directed downwards, so the quantity of ripple is different.In this example, the ripple quantity of top edge 126 still also can be opposite with above-mentioned situation less than the ripple example of lower edge 127.In addition, top edge 126 is different with the height (corresponding to wave amplitude) of the bellows-shaped of lower edge 127.Top edge 126 has the bellows-shaped of low clearance, and lower edge 127 has the bellows-shaped that it highly is higher than the height of top edge 126.It should be noted the height of the bellows-shaped of top edge 126 and lower edge 127.
Height with the ripple in the edge of less bellows-shaped is preferably lower, and it is higher to have a height of the ripple in the edge of more bellows-shaped.For present embodiment, curling of each edge more is not prone to.In addition, even in the design of top edge 126 and lower edge 127 by this way not simultaneously, also can more easily find in the top edge of lining cloth and the balance between the stress on the lower edge.
And, protrusion and the recessed portion of ignoring each bellows-shaped, the top edge 126 of lining cloth 125 forms outstanding on the whole gentle curve downwards, and in this gentle sweep, have several bellows-shaped sweeps, and ignore the protrusion and the recessed portion of each bellows-shaped, the lower edge 127 of lining cloth 125 forms the gentle curve that projects upwards on the whole, and in this gentle sweep, have several bellows-shaped sweeps.
Therefore, the direction of the edge line at the edge 127 on the downside of lining cloth 125 has curved shape on the whole, so that it has and end and the identical direction of straight line that is close to the end of coupling part 132 in order to the lower edge that more is close to breast cup 127 that connects lining cloth, promptly, direction shown in the arrow 135, and form 85 ° angle (cutting angle) with respect to weaving direction 136.The direction of the edge line of the top edge of lining cloth 126 is and the identical direction of straight line in order to the crest that connects this bellows-shaped, that is, and and the direction shown in the arrow 134, and form 105 ° angle (cutting angle) with respect to weaving direction 136.That is to say that the line at the edge, upper and lower that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state of formation lining cloth is not parallel each other.It should be noted, because edge line is a bellows-shaped, therefore the bellows-shaped of the edge line of lower edge 127 part is being better than and is dropping under the angle below 85 ° by cutting, and the bellows-shaped of the edge line of top edge 126 part is being better than and is dropping under the angle below 105 ° by cutting.Before edge on the downside of core 129 becoming with respect to weaving direction under 75 ° the angle by cutting.
Reference numeral 143 expression shoulder belt attachment positions.Shoulder belt 131 is attached to the end of this shoulder belt attachment position 143.Although not shown, shoulder belt attachment position 143 is mutually continuous with lining cloth 125, and is similar to the situation shown in the Reference numeral among Figure 21 113, and is cut into a slice with lining cloth.Its marginal portion keeps the cutting former state and does not need the edging finishing.The most wide degree of lining cloth 125 is set to 9cm and the narrowest width is set to 4cm.
In the lining cloth of traditional brassiere, edge, upper and lower along lining cloth 125 is provided with rubber strip, but there is not rubber strip to be sewn onto the edge, upper and lower of lining cloth 125 of the brassiere of present embodiment, so that can be owing to any rubber strip increases thickness, and when wearing, realized clear profile, and on skin, can not leave the marking of wearing of rubber strip around chest.Therefore, lining cloth applying health, and the marginal portion fits tightly health and less than curling, the displacement when mobile is reduced to minimum, prevents that clothes are loosening.And overturn in the marginal portion that can effectively prevent lining cloth.
Because lining cloth is to be made by two-layer fabrics laminated together, therefore tearing strength is big, the top edge of lining cloth and lower edge do not need the edging finishing, lining cloth is made by vertical continuous cloth, have an even surface and from the top edge to the lower edge between do not have level poor, and when wearing, do not have local pressure.As the fabric of lining cloth sheet is the fabric that its cutting marginal portion is not easy to wear and tear, and because it is cut into shape and the angle that can not wear and tear the marginal portion, so the cutting end at edge, upper and lower is neat, and the yarn end can be from wherein outstanding.And, what be used as the lining cloth sheet uses cotton yarn as non-elastic yarn with the corresponding fabric of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), and because the top edge and the lower edge of lining cloth are not easy to wear and tear and use being disposed on the skin side with the corresponding fabric of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) of cotton yarn, therefore has such effect, promptly, sense of touch for skin is good, has increased snugness of fit and absorption of perspiration height.Usually, when using cotton yarn, be difficult to increase count, but be to use the half hitch structure that is used for stretch yarn, more can strengthen the contraction of stretch yarn in the comparable single sley bar warp plain stitch structure.Therefore, can strengthen the count of overall material, and can provide its edge when keeping the cutting former state, not need finishing but still the material that have essential ductility of edging.
It should be noted, in above-mentioned example, with corresponding of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) as be arranged in corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) go up and be laminated to corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) on sheet, but also can use and corresponding of corresponding replacement of second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) and first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) as mentioned above.And, also can use another kind of non-elastic yarn, replace cotton yarn with corresponding of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) such as nylon yarn and Polyester Yarns.
It should be noted, use the two-layer fabrics of lamination to be not limited to the lining cloth of brassiere, but also can be used for making bottom, lingerie and underwear such as women pants and waistband as the sheet that forms clothes.
Count (stringer), the yarn feeding of non-elastic yarn of WARP-KNITTING of sheet that is used for foregoing example and the yarn feeding of stretch yarn are shown in following chart 1.
Chart 1
The example numbering The sheet title Count (stringer/2.54cm) The yarn feeding of A non-elastic yarn (cm/rack) The yarn feeding of B stretch yarn (cm/rack) A/B
1 Buttocks sheet 1 70 99 70 1.414
1 Belly sheet 6 68 102 77 1.325
2 Buttocks sheet 15 70 99 70 1.414
2 Preceding centre bottom sheet 17 70 99 70 1.414
2 Belly sheet 16 65 96 77 1.247
3 Buttocks sheet 75 and belly sheet 76 63 Base portion knitted parts 106 Base portion knitted parts 72 Base portion knitted parts 1.472
4 Lining cloth 26 63 110 95 1.158
5 Lining cloth 35 63 110 95 1.158
6 Lining cloth 65 98 90 1.089
7 With (A-1) corresponding lining cloth 75 110 95 1.158
7 With (B-1) corresponding lining cloth 60 98 90 1.089
8 With (A-1) corresponding lining cloth 75 110 95 1.158
8 With (B-2) corresponding lining cloth 70 110 95 1.158
9 With (A-1) corresponding lining cloth 75 110 95 1.158
9 With (B-1) corresponding lining cloth 75 98 90 1.089
10 With (A-1) corresponding lining cloth 75 110 95 1.158
10 With (B-1) corresponding lining cloth 75 98 90 1.089
Industrial applicibility
Clothes of the present invention are to make with a slice cloth that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, in order to the clothes that do not need the edging finishing can be provided, the level that wherein can not show the bottom line that is reflected on the coat or waistline is poor, and the marginal portion can thickening. And, the top edge of clothes or any one in the lower edge can be the edge that does not need the edging finishing, therefore can increase the free degree of dress designing, the marginal portion of clothes applying health and clothes can be not curling, and described clothes have tensility and high snugness of fit. Therefore, the present invention is applicable to fit tightly the clothes of body worn, and such as the clothes such as the bottom such as waistband or pants, for upper dress of brassiere or swimsuit or tight etc., the present invention is applicable to lining cloth.

Claims (42)

1. clothes, be manufactured into the sheet that comprises stretchable WARP-KNITTING, described WARP-KNITTING comprises non-elastic yarn that is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and the stretch yarn that is arranged to loop structure at least, described become with respect to weaving direction at least 3 ° and at the most under 177 ° the angle by cutting, described has the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, so that at least one marginal portion of clothes is formed by the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state.
2. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that described WARP-KNITTING comprises 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along equidirectional, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop.
3. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that described WARP-KNITTING comprises 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and at least a formation closed loop in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn.
4. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that described WARP-KNITTING comprises 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, wherein non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.
5. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that the structure of described stretch yarn is the half hitch structure.
6. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that the structure of described stretch yarn is the satin weave structure.
7. according to claim 5 or the described clothes of claim 6, it is characterized in that, make by at least a WARP-KNITTING that forms closed loop of stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn wherein.
8. according to claim 5 or the described clothes of claim 6, it is characterized in that the WARP-KNITTING that is all formed closed loop by wherein stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn is made.
9. according to claim 5 or the described clothes of claim 6, it is characterized in that described non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn.
10. according to the described clothes of claim 5, it is characterized in that described non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn.
11., it is characterized in that described non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn according to the described clothes of claim 5, and at least a formation closed loop in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn.
12., it is characterized in that described non-elastic yarn is a cotton yarn according to the described clothes of claim 5, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.
13. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described for by will be from following first group (A) constituting by first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) that lists the be bonded together sheet of lamination of at least a material that choose and another cloth made from the material except that first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2)
In first WARP-KNITTING (A-1), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along the equidirectional trend, stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop;
In second WARP-KNITTING (A-2), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along the equidirectional trend, one in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn forms closed loop, and another forms open loop.
14. according to the described clothes of claim 13, it is characterized in that, described in order to the material of making described another kind of cloth at least a material, wherein for from second group (B) constituting to the six channels braid (B-4) by the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), choosing
In the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure;
In the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure;
In Five Classics braid (B-3), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and along the equidirectional trend, stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop;
In the six channels braid (B-4), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and form closed loop.
15. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described is the be bonded together sheet of lamination of a plurality of thin slices by at least a material that will choose from second group (B) being made of to the six channels braid (B-4) the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), wherein
In the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and stretch yarn is arranged to the half hitch structure;
In the 4th WARP-KNITTING (B-2), non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, and stretch yarn is arranged to the satin weave structure;
In Five Classics braid (B-3), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along the equidirectional trend, stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form open loop;
In the six channels braid (B-4), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn move towards along different directions, and non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and form closed loop.
16., it is characterized in that the material of described first group (A) is that the material of first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second group (B) is the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) according to the described clothes of claim 14.
17., it is characterized in that the non-elastic yarn of the 3rd WARP-KNITTING (B-1) is cotton according to the described clothes of claim 16, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop.
18. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described clothes edge, top and at least one in the clothes edge, bottom be not for needing the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and do not need this edge that edging repairs to become 10 ° to 120 ° angle by cutting with respect to weaving direction.
19. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom all are not need the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and these edges that do not need the edging finishing are to become 10 ° to 120 ° angle by cutting with respect to weaving direction.
20., it is characterized in that described by making along the continuous WARP-KNITTING of the vertical direction of clothes according to the described clothes of claim 1.
21., it is characterized in that described clothes edge, top and at least one in the clothes edge, bottom be not for needing the edge of edging finishing according to the described clothes of claim 1 when keeping the cutting former state, and do not need this edge that edging repairs along curve by cutting.
22., it is characterized in that described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom all are not need the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state according to the described clothes of claim 1, and these edges that do not need the edging finishing along curve by cutting.
23. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described clothes edge, top and at least one in the clothes edge, bottom edge for when keeping the cutting former state, not needing edging to repair, and do not need this edge of edging finishing to have the bellows-shaped of a plurality of curves.
24. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom all are not need the edge of edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and do not need these edges of edging finishing to have the bellows-shaped of a plurality of curves.
25., it is characterized in that described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom all are the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state according to the described clothes of claim 1, and top edge and lower edge are not parallel each other.
26., it is characterized in that described clothes edge, top and clothes edge, bottom all are the edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state, and the shape of top edge is different from the shape of lower edge according to the described clothes of claim 1.
27., it is characterized in that described clothes are the bottom clothes according to the described clothes of claim 1, and the described edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state forms in waistline and the bottom line at least one.
28., it is characterized in that described clothes are the bottom clothes according to the described clothes of claim 1, and the described edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state forms waistline and bottom line.
29. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described clothes are brassiere, perhaps be the dress of going up of swimsuit or tight, and the described edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state form the top edge of lining cloth and at least one in the lower edge.
30., it is characterized in that described clothes are brassiere according to the described clothes of claim 1, perhaps be the dress of going up of swimsuit or tight, and the described edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state form the top edge and the lower edge of lining cloth.
31., it is characterized in that the described edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state is to become 20 ° to 80 ° angle by cutting with respect to weaving direction according to the described clothes of claim 27.
32., it is characterized in that the described edge that does not need the edging finishing when keeping the cutting former state is to become 20 ° to 80 ° angle by cutting with respect to weaving direction according to the described clothes of claim 28.
33. according to the described clothes of claim 29, it is characterized in that, form described of lining cloth when keeping the cutting former state, do not need clothes edge that edging repairs to become 10 ° to 90 ° angle with respect to weaving direction by cutting.
34. according to the described clothes of claim 29, it is characterized in that, form described of lining cloth when keeping the cutting former state, do not need clothes edge that edging repairs to become 75 ° to 90 ° angle with respect to weaving direction by cutting.
35. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, by the jacquard weave control as the another kind of non-elastic yarn of decorative pattern yarn, described is provided with big jacquard weave weavy grain, and big jacquard weave weavy grain enrolls by the non-elastic yarn and the thread base portion fabric of stretch yarn that constitute described.
36. according to the described clothes of claim 35, it is characterized in that, the stretch yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure be arranged to as at least a in the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern yarn along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend, and the part that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain in the decorative pattern yarn has the structure that is different from 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
37. according to the described clothes of claim 35, it is characterized in that, the stretch yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure, the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure be arranged to as at least a in the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern yarn along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend, and another kind of non-elastic yarn is arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and edge and stretch yarn different directions trend, and the part of the big jacquard weave weavy grain of formation has the structure that is different from 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure in the decorative pattern yarn.
38. according to the described clothes of claim 35, it is characterized in that, the non-elastic yarn that forms the base portion braiding structure be arranged to along with 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure of the stretch yarn different directions trend that forms the base portion braiding structure, as the non-elastic yarn of big jacquard weave control decorative pattern yarn be arranged to along with the structure of stretch yarn equidirectional trend, and the part that forms big jacquard weave weavy grain in the decorative pattern yarn has the structure that is different from 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure.
39. according to the described clothes of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described for by at least a material that will from following first group (A) constituting by first WARP-KNITTING (A-1) and second WARP-KNITTING (A-2) that lists, choose with wherein be formed with the be bonded together sheet of lamination of the material of making according to the sheet of any described big jacquard weave weavy grain in the claim 35,36,37 and 38
In first WARP-KNITTING (A-1), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and along equidirectional trend, and stretch yarn and non-elastic yarn all form closed loop;
In second WARP-KNITTING (A-2), non-elastic yarn and stretch yarn all are arranged to 1 * 1 warp plain stitch's structure and move towards along equidirectional, and a formation closed loop in stretch yarn and the non-elastic yarn, and another forms open loop.
40., it is characterized in that described lining cloth is for using the lining cloth according to the sheet of claim 13 according to the described clothes of claim 29.
41., it is characterized in that described has the straight flange boundary line that is used for owing to the tensile force transitional region that stretch yarn caused according to the described clothes of claim 1.
42., it is characterized in that described clothes are the clothes that fit tightly health according to the described clothes of claim 1.
CNB2004800012287A 2003-05-13 2004-04-26 Clothes Expired - Fee Related CN100403947C (en)

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2000008203A (en) * 1998-04-22 2000-01-11 Wacoal Corp Clothing having body shape correcting function or muscle supporting function
JP2003119653A (en) * 2001-10-10 2003-04-23 Takeda Lace Co Ltd Lace knit fabric
JP2004027465A (en) * 2002-05-01 2004-01-29 Wacoal Corp Warp knit fabric and clothing using the same

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2000008203A (en) * 1998-04-22 2000-01-11 Wacoal Corp Clothing having body shape correcting function or muscle supporting function
JP2003119653A (en) * 2001-10-10 2003-04-23 Takeda Lace Co Ltd Lace knit fabric
JP2004027465A (en) * 2002-05-01 2004-01-29 Wacoal Corp Warp knit fabric and clothing using the same

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