Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
  • D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
  • D06B7/00—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising
  • D06B7/08—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising of fabrics of indefinite length
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
  • D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
  • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
  • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
  • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
  • D06M11/40—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table combined with, or in absence of, mechanical tension, e.g. slack mercerising
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
  • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
  • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
  • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
  • Y10T442/2369—Coating or impregnation improves elasticity, bendability, resiliency, flexibility, or shape retention of the fabric
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
  • Y10T442/2369—Coating or impregnation improves elasticity, bendability, resiliency, flexibility, or shape retention of the fabric
  • Y10T442/2377—Improves elasticity
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
  • Y10T442/2762—Coated or impregnated natural fiber fabric [e.g., cotton, wool, silk, linen, etc.]
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
  • Y10T442/2762—Coated or impregnated natural fiber fabric [e.g., cotton, wool, silk, linen, etc.]
  • Y10T442/277—Coated or impregnated cellulosic fiber fabric

Definitions

• the invention relates to a new method for making a fabric elastic, a machine for carrying out the method, as well as the fabric obtained by the method. More particularly, the Applicant has found a solution to a problem that has not yet been resolved, namely giving elasticity to a fabric produced with naturally non-elastic fibers, that is to say before treatment.
• This solution consists of a process for mechanical and chemical treatment of a fabric by impregnating soda or another metallic peroxide, characterized in that it consists in applying to a hydrophilic fabric, for example desized and / or previously bleached and of which the weft (or conversely the warp) is made up of threads of natural or artificial cellulosic fibers: impregnation in a metallic peroxide leaving the fabric free in the weft (or conversely in the warp) for a time necessary for the swelling of the fiber constituting the weft (or conversely of the warp) of the fabric and on the modification of the cellulose, at least one relaxation without weft tension (or conversely without warp tension) by passage in air during which the weft (or conversely the warp) swells then takes its spring form, after retraction, at least one rinsing, at least one washing, at least one expression.
• the alkaline contact time of 14 to 25 ° Baume is less than 5 min.
• it comprises, near impregnation, at least a first energetic expression, for example at a take-off rate of at least 70% of the product followed by a first pass of relaxation in the air, for example of at least one minute.
• a fabric is used whose weft (or conversely the warp) consists of fibers of cellulose-based fibers and a fabric whose construction allows the swelling of the weft (for example 30% to 50% approximately) and a strong expression .
• An implementation machine mainly and successively comprises: • an impregnation station, • at least a first expression station, • at least a first relaxation station, • possibly a detour roller, • possibly a second expressing station, • possibly a second relaxation station, • possibly a rinsing station, “a station or two washing stations, • a final expressing station, • a winding station, • means for adjusting the speed of unwinding of the fabric capable of managing the duration of impregnation with soda and the duration of relaxation in air.
• the fabric obtained is an elastic fabric based on celluloses whose weft (or conversely the warp) is made up of cellulosic fibers which are not naturally elastic before application of the process and which have elasticity properties in the weft direction (or vice versa the warp direction). which are given to it by the process.
• the warp (or conversely the weft) can be made of other materials but must be able to withstand the peroxide treatment.
• certain synthetics such as polyester can be used.
• FIG. 1 shows schematically a method according to the invention
• Figures 2, 3, 4 are enlarged views of son to based on cellulosic fibers, given by way of nonlimiting examples, having undergone a treatment according to the invention
• - Figure 5 is an enlarged view of a yarn based on cellulosic fibers not having undergone treatment according to the invention.
• the treatment may be suitable for an unbleached but hydrophilic fabric such as for example a desized fabric.
• the speed of movement of the fabric is adjusted so as to have a predetermined impregnation duration and sufficient for maximum swelling of the weft, while remaining below the transformation, and / or fixing threshold, and / or deterioration of the fiber.
• the tissue undergoes partial expression (II) in a conventional device such as a scarf (3).
• partial expression is carried out with a take-off rate of at least 70% other rates are possible, but the expression must be strong to give shape to the cellulosic thread.
• the tissue undergoes relaxation III; to do this, it is led to a roller relaxation station (4), in which the length of the path in the open air in a zigzag between the detour rollers is predetermined and sufficient for the weft of the fabric to take its shape and its removal under the effect of the action of soda.
• a roller relaxation station (4) in which the length of the path in the open air in a zigzag between the detour rollers is predetermined and sufficient for the weft of the fabric to take its shape and its removal under the effect of the action of soda.
• the fabric is optionally subjected to a cold rinse (VII) in a tank (8), then at least one wash or two washes (VIII, IX) in overflowing water tanks (9,10).
• the fabric passes through these relaxation stations (4) and (7) without weft tension but in warp tension, and for a time sufficient to allow the removal of the weft, and predetermined according to the characteristics of the fiber and the fabric.
• the tissue acquired in memory a “spring” or elastic effect.
• Treated fabric - linen warp, Tencel ® weft, - square weave, - fairly loose construction fabric allowing the weft to swell enough, for example by around 30%, this construction can be calculated according to a mathematical model.
• Impregnation - soda bath from 14 to 25 ° Balm, - duration: less than 5, for example from 3 to 4 minutes
• 1st expression energetic for example of at least 70%.
• 1 st relaxation air 2nd squeeze energetic e.g. at least 70%. 2 nd relaxation in the air.
• Rinses and washes with water: (for example cold water, 10 m per minute approximately). Final expression: energetic, for example at least 80%. Neutralization of soda and washing hot water.
• Tests on the fabric obtained have shown an elasticity of the order of 15 to 25% with good resistance to use since it improves with the number of washes by the user and is not sensitive to temperature. some water.
• the process of the invention applies more generally to all fabrics whose weft (or conversely the warp) is made up of natural cellulosic fibers such as for example linen or artificial, such as for example Tencel ® or Lyocell ®.
• the warp (or conversely the weft) can be made of natural or artificial or synthetic fibers.
• the invention also applies to a machine specially designed to implement the method.
• This machine mainly and successively comprises: an impregnation station, - at least a first expression station (3), at least a first relaxation station (4), - possibly a tank or bacholle (5) for empty use or in addition of peroxide, the detour roller of which is used to avoid folds at the entrance to the next station, filling the bacholle (5) making it possible to reduce the time of passage, - a second expression station (6) which is not compulsory but which can improve the efficiency of the first passage, a second relaxation station (7), - possibly a rinsing station (8), knowing that it is also possible to neutralize on a washer after passing through the machine, - a station (compartment) or two washing stations (compartments) (9) (10), - a final expression station (11), a winding station (12).
• the machine also includes means for adjusting the unwinding speed and the chain tension, which are adjusted as a function of the durations necessary for impregnating and relaxing the weft in air.
• the machine also includes all the control means necessary for its operation and within the reach of those skilled in the art. The machine described above makes it possible to obtain an elasticity in the weft direction, that is to say in the width of the fabric. During the whole treatment, the warp is stretched and causes the weft to wave, which remains free and then fixes itself in a wavy position.
• the method allows the development of a mathematical model which is capable of predicting the characteristics of the fabric after treatment as a function of the construction of the fabric of the frame, of the mixture, the width, the elasticity, the desired weight, etc. and therefore of defining the parameters of the treatment as a function of the tissue model previously studied and / or calculated, a large number of natural or artificial celluloses are suitable.
• the shape memory fixes the fabric, and a relationship leads to a mechanical stability of the fabric, - the touch is improved, the elasticity is not sensitive to water temperature up to 100 ° C, - the fabric breaks less in dyeing which reduces defects and breaks less in washing thus facilitating ironing, - with Lyocell, there is a strong reduction in fibrillation during treatment (dyeing, primer) which improves the appearance of the surface of the tissue.
• the fabric according to the invention is identifiable on the one hand by its straight warp (or conversely its weft) while the weft is wavy, and has been blocked or fixed in the spring position by crushing at the junction of the weft and warp fibers, at the time of the retraction, on the other hand by an at least partial transformation of the fibers of crystalline nature into amorphous cellulose. It is also noted that the fabric according to the invention is identifiable by its weft and by its warp, in comparison with a fabric which would not have undergone the treatment, by the following points: - the weft thread (or conversely warp) tissue is less hairy, less round, more flattened, more crushed.
• the weft (or vice versa the warp) takes a very marked and very visible undulation. Its shape takes full account of the weave of the fabric. It memorizes a spring position with a greater crushing in the space between two warp threads, - the weft (or conversely the warp) takes elasticity depending on the construction and a good restoring force as long as we do not do not go beyond of the elastic limit. Its nervousness in torsion is much stronger than on an untreated weft. This is due to shape memory.
• the bundling of the fibers after treatment lets see under the microscope no tendency to create rings around the yarn, - the warp yarn (or conversely of weft) is straighter, less wavy, with a more reliable misting than on a classic fabric. It is much less flattened than the weft and has a less marked undulation. Its elasticity is low on cellulose. Whatever the cellulose used, the treatment changes the proportion of the percentages of cellulose I, of cellulose II, both crystalline, and of amorphous cellulose.
• Figures 2, 3, 4 show the appearance of a weft thread (or conversely the warp) on fabrics, of different weaves, treated by the process according to the invention. They enhance the shape memory by the flattened structure of the wire, by its crushing at the contact points and by the undulations linked to the weave for example: - Figure 2: irregular weave. The ripple is marked and the weft twists, - Figure 3: regular weave with small floats (or passages), - Figure 4: regular weave with large floats: It highlights the crushing caused by the chain (or inversely by the weft), FIG.
• a fabric according to the invention is therefore a fabric which is not naturally elastic, the elasticity in the weft direction (or vice versa in the warp direction) is given to it by chemical and mechanical treatment which modifies the cellulose of the thread constituting the weft (or conversely the chain) to give it a shape memory, the shape memorized being due to the imprint of the weave of the fabric during the retraction.
• the warp (or conversely the weft) is straight and taut while the weft is wavy according to a shape or imprint depending on the type of weave of the fabric.
• the expression not naturally elastic means that the fabric and / the thread, in the absence of any treatment, does not have a character of elasticity, in particular does not have elastic threads and / or made elastic by manufacture (for example wrapped thread or thread with elastic core).

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Materials Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (2)

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Family Applications (1)

Country Status (6)

Cited By (1)

Families Citing this family (2)

Family Cites Families (6)

• 2003
  • 2003-07-25 FR FR0309271A patent/FR2857989B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2004
  • 2004-07-23 WO PCT/FR2004/001973 patent/WO2005019516A2/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2004-07-23 CN CNB2004800216104A patent/CN100554559C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2004-07-23 AT AT04767767T patent/ATE516394T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2004-07-23 US US10/565,458 patent/US7578017B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2004-07-23 EP EP04767767A patent/EP1651807B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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