EP1648395A1 - Hauttönungsprodukt enthaltend selbstbräuner zur farbangleichung unterschiedlich pigmentierter hautstellen - Google Patents
Hauttönungsprodukt enthaltend selbstbräuner zur farbangleichung unterschiedlich pigmentierter hautstellenInfo
- Publication number
- EP1648395A1 EP1648395A1 EP04734516A EP04734516A EP1648395A1 EP 1648395 A1 EP1648395 A1 EP 1648395A1 EP 04734516 A EP04734516 A EP 04734516A EP 04734516 A EP04734516 A EP 04734516A EP 1648395 A1 EP1648395 A1 EP 1648395A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic
- skin
- weight
- acid
- preparation
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the use of self-tanning cosmetic preparations for concealing irregular skin pigmentation.
- UVB range wavelength: 280-320 nm
- UVB and UVA radiation wavelength: 320-400 nm
- the natural tanning of the skin from the sun's rays is caused by the formation of brown color pigments in the skin.
- the basal layer the epidermis contains, besides the basal cells, individual pigment-forming cells, the melanocytes.
- the UV light in these cells stimulates the production of melanin, which is transported into the keratinocytes and ultimately into the corneocytes (horn cells), where it becomes visible as a brown skin color.
- This pigment formation which originates from the amino acid tyrosine, is primarily initiated by UVB radiation and is referred to as "indirect pigmentation". It develops over several days; the tan obtained in this way lasts for several weeks. Every person has a personal complexion. In particular, the surface structure of the skin is unique, which makes it possible to identify people based on their fingerprints.
- the color of the skin is also very different.
- skin pigmentation disorders such as freckles (Lentigo aestiva), age spots (Lentigo senilis, Keratosis senilis), liver spots (Lentigo simplex, Lentigo juvenilis, Naevi) and unnatural or pathological skin pigmentation disorders such as Lentigo maligna (Dubreuil disease) -Hutch , Vitiligo, scars from, for example, operations, injuries or burns (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), melasma, irregular pigmentation of the skin with locally hyper- and / or hypopigmented "areas uneven skin tone) due to external influences (especially after chronic UV exposure).
- Targeted pigmentation means all processes that trigger pigmentation / tanning in the upper layers of the skin. This does not include covering the skin with color pigments, long known as make-up, or applying pigments to the leather skin (corium) (tattooing).
- the human skin can also be artificially tanned by ingesting carotenoids orally, but this can lead to unnatural-looking orange tones of the skin.
- the compounds can be reacted with the proteins and amino acids of the homolayer of the skin in the sense of a Maillard reaction, with polymers being formed via a not yet fully elucidated reaction pathway, which give the skin a brownish shade. This reaction is complete after about 4 to 6 hours; the- 'tan achieved in this way is not washable and is only removed with the normal scaling of the skin.
- the preparations with which the inventive method can be carried out can be present and used in various forms. So you can z. B. an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O / W) type or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) type.
- Emulsifier-free formulations such as hydrodipersions, hydrogels or a Pickering emulsion are also advantageous embodiments.
- all forms of preparation contain self-tanning substances.
- the preparations according to the invention are preferably applied to the skin areas to be tanned at least once, particularly preferably twice a day.
- Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also advantageous, since the uneven pigmentation of untreated skin can be increased by sun exposure.
- the consistency of the formulations can range from pasty formulations to flowable formulations to thin, sprayable products. Accordingly, creams, lotions, pens or sprays can be formulated.
- the cosmetic preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatics.
- the application not only makes it possible to achieve a uniform skin coloration, it is also possible, in particular, to naturally color differently colored skin areas naturally or through pathological changes.
- 1,3-dihydroxyacetone is very particularly preferred.
- a trivalent sugar found in the human body is very particularly preferred.
- 6-Aldo-D-fructose and ninhydrin can also be used as self-tanners according to the invention.
- self-tanners are also understood to mean substances which cause a skin color deviating from brown tone. This also includes active ingredients from natural sources, such as those e.g. occur in turmeric.
- the skin-tanning cosmetic preparations according to the invention contain one or more self-tanning substances in a concentration of 0.02 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation included.
- concentrations 0.02 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation included.
- the use of higher concentrations (> 1.5% by weight) can also make sense according to the invention.
- compositions for use of the self-tanning cosmetic preparation contain, in addition to at least one self-tanning substance, also active ingredients which counteract skin aging.
- active ingredients which counteract skin aging.
- the combination with radical scavengers and antioxidants is particularly advantageous.
- DL-camosine D-carnosine, L-carnosine, anserine and their derivatives (for example as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and Lipid compound), retinol, carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, ⁇ -lycopene, phytoene,) and their derivatives (e.g.
- thioredoxin lipoic acid, liponamide, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, Amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, Sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid linkage) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg homocysteine sulfoximine, buthynin sulfones, penta-, hexa-, hepthionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosage
- (metal) chelators eg apoferritin, desferral, lactoferrin, hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid
- their derivatives as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid compound
- ⁇ -hydroxy acid eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- humic acid eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- humic acid eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- humic acid eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- humic acid eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- humic acid eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- humic acid eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
- bile acid bile extracts
- bilirubin biliverdin
- EDTA EG
- ascorbyl palmitate Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
- tocopherols and derivatives e.g. vitamin E acetate
- phenolic compounds and plant extracts containing them such as. B. flavonoids (e.g. glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid), furfurylidene glucitol, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzähoffre, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone and their derivatives (as salt, ester, nucleotide, sugar, sugar, Nucleoside, peptide and lipid linkage).
- flavonoids e.g. glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid
- furfurylidene glucitol butylated hydroxytoluene
- butylated hydroxyanisole butylated hydroxyani
- Uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid compound).
- Zinc and its derivatives e.g. ZnO, ZnSO 4
- selenium and its derivatives e.g. selenium methionine, Ebselen
- stilbenes and their derivatives e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
- the derivatives suitable according to the invention as salt, ester, ether , Sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid compound
- a form of use of the preparation according to the invention is particularly advantageous if it contains moisturizers for moisturizing the skin.
- moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, especially sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
- moisturizers mentioned above it is also advantageous according to the invention to use one or more of the moisturizers mentioned above. This is preferably carried out in a concentration of 1-20% by weight, particularly preferably 5-10% by weight.
- Glycerol can be used as a particularly preferred moisturizer in the sense of the present application in the range of 0.05-30% by weight, particularly preferably 1-10%.
- the preparations according to the invention are also very particularly suitable for the use of active ingredients which have a positive effect on the condition of the skin.
- active ingredients for positively influencing the aging skin which reduce the formation of wrinkles or existing wrinkles (bioquinones, in particular ubiquinone Q10, creatine, creatinine, camitin, biotin, isoflavone, cardiolipin, lipoic acid, anti-freezing proteins, hops and Hop-malt extracts) and / or promote the restructuring of the connective tissue (isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts such as soy and clover extracts), can be used very well in the formulations according to the invention.
- the formulations are particularly suitable, active ingredients to support skin functions in dry skin (vitamin C, biotin, camitin, creatine, creatinine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts such as NaCI , Marine minerals and osmolytes such as taurine, inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds).
- active ingredients to support skin functions in dry skin vitamin C, biotin, camitin, creatine, creatinine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts such as NaCI , Marine minerals and osmolytes such as taurine, inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds.
- active ingredients to support skin functions in dry skin vitamin C, biotin, camitin, creatine, creatinine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts such as NaCI
- Active substances such as sericosides, various extracts of liquorice and black cumin, licochalcone, in particular licochacon A, dexpanthenol, inhibitors are to be mentioned here prostaglandin metabolism (especially cyclooxygenase) and leukotriene metabolism (especially 5-lipoxygenase, but also 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor protein, FLAP).
- prostaglandin metabolism especially cyclooxygenase
- leukotriene metabolism especially 5-lipoxygenase, but also 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor protein, FLAP.
- the incorporation of pigmentation modulators also proved to be advantageous.
- Active substances that reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or reduce the appearance of age spots and / or brighten existing age spots include tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecene-1, 16- dicarboxylic acid), lipoic acid and liponamide, various extracts of liquorice, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), bearberry (Uvae ursi), ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, green tea extracts, aminoguanidine, pyridoxamine).
- the formulations according to the invention proved to be an excellent basis for active ingredients which bring about an intensified / faster tanning of the skin (Advanced Glycation End Products (AGE), lipofuscins, nucleic acid oligonucleotides, purines and pyrimidines, NO-releasing substances), be it with or without the influence of UV light.
- AGE Advanced Glycation End Products
- lipofuscins lipofuscins
- nucleic acid oligonucleotides nucleic acid oligonucleotides
- purines and pyrimidines purines and pyrimidines
- NO-releasing substances be it with or without the influence of UV light.
- cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain sunscreen filters (UV-A or UV-B filter substances).
- UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
- Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
- the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
- the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
- Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and Mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSO).
- the titanium dioxide pigments can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modification and, for the purposes of the present invention, can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character being formed or retained.
- This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by methods known per se.
- the various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
- Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), zirconium oxide (ZrO 2 ) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
- Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
- Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
- aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
- sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
- silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9
- oxides, oxide hydrates or phosphates for example of the elements Al, Si, Zr, are struck in dense layers on the pigment surface.
- the inorganic aftertreatment generally takes place in an aqueous suspension of the pigment by adding soluble aftertreatment chemicals, e.g. Aluminum sulfate, and subsequent precipitation of the irri neutral range of poorly soluble hydroxide by targeted adjustment of the pH with sodium hydroxide solution.
- soluble aftertreatment chemicals e.g. Aluminum sulfate
- precipitation of the irri neutral range of poorly soluble hydroxide by targeted adjustment of the pH with sodium hydroxide solution.
- the coated pigments are separated from the suspension by filtration and washed carefully to remove the dissolved salts, and then the isolated pigments are dried.
- titanium dioxides to which aluminum hydroxide has been applied to the surface such as, for example, titanium dioxide types C47-051 and C47- 5175 available from Sun Chemical.
- Further preferred pigments are titanium dioxides containing aluminum and / or silicon oxides are coated, such as from Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 and 1075 or from Kingfisher: A310.03 Mathematics Aspen.
- Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, diethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
- diethylpolysiloxane also: dimethicone
- methicone methylpolysiloxane
- simethicone a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel
- alginic acid can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, diethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methyl
- Coated and uncoated titanium dioxides described can also be used in the form of the present invention in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
- the titanium dioxides according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size between 10 nm to 150 nm.
- titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex TS from Merck and the titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa.
- zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
- Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of ⁇ 300 nm and are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
- Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer are particularly preferred zinc oxides for the purposes of the invention.
- the total amount of one or more inorganic pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation is advantageously selected from the range 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 18% by weight.
- An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
- Tinosorb® M is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemical GmbH.
- UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
- dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
- UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid
- 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or ethanol ammonium salt
- benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid
- UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, which are characterized by the following structural formula:
- R 1 and R 2 are independently hydrogen, CC 2 o-alkyl, C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl or C 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R 1 and R 2 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached can form a 5- or 6-ring and • R 3 is a CC 20 -alkyl radical.
- a particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the sense of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is characterized by the following structure:
- Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
- Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:
- R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single represent hydrogen atom.
- Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
- Particularly advantageous preparations according to the present invention which are characterized by high or very high UV-A protection, preferably comprise a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, 'in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example, 4- (tert-Butyl ) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) - phenol)], phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo 3-bornylidene methyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy)
- UV filter substances which the structural motif
- UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula is reproduced, whereby
- R represents a branched or unbranched CC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
- X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group
- Ri is a branched or unbranched CrCis-alkyl group, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C- ⁇ -C 4 - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
- A represents a branched or unbranched CrC ⁇ 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups
- R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- n represents a number from 1 to 10
- R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 8 -C alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched C Ci 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C -, - C 4 - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
- A represents a branched or unbranched Ci-Ci ⁇ -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CC 4 alkyl groups
- R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
- a particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
- dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
- a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ' > 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
- European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula
- R 1, R 2 and A 1 represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
- Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyI ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxyj-phenyl ⁇ -6- [ 4- (2
- Tinosorb® M is identified and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA Chemical GmbH.
- Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyI) oxy] disiloxanylpropylj-phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
- the UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
- Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
- 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
- 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
- esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester
- ⁇ esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester
- benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
- Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
- a further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539 and is distinguished by the following structure:
- the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
- one or more matting or slightly overlapping ingredients can be present in addition to the self-tanning substance.
- the weight ratio of the total amount of starch and / or starch derivatives to the total amount of cyclodextrins and / or Cyclodextrin derivatives according to the invention is advantageously from 1: 7 to 15: 1, preferably from 1: 1 to 10: 1.
- starch and / or starch derivatives are selected from the group consisting of starch phosphate, tapioca starch, acetyl or adipic acid-substituted starch, hydroxypropylated starch, aluminum or sodium starch, starch substituted with N-octenyl succinate, Corn starch, 2-hydropropyl ether-modified starch and hydroxypropyl starch-phosphate esters and the like, whereby distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) and tapioca starch (INCI: Tapioca Starch) are preferred according to the invention.
- distarch phosphate INCI: Distarch Phosphate
- tapioca starch INCI: Tapioca Starch
- starches and starch derivatives are also advantageous because they also further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, produce or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. It is advantageous according to the invention if the cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives are selected from the group a-, ⁇ -, y- and hydroxypropyl-y8-cyclodextrin, with ⁇ -cyclodextrin (INCI: cyclodextrin) being preferred according to the invention.
- the powder raw materials according to the invention from the group of sugar derivatives in a total amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of 2 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 6% by weight. %, each based on the total weight of the preparation.
- polysaccharides and their derivatives are also advantageous according to the invention, hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives, and the use of cellulose derivatives such as e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
- layered silicates as matting ingredients is also advantageous according to the invention.
- Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form as thickeners, e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.
- silica gels can also advantageously be used as matting ingredients.
- antiperspirant salts e.g. acidic aluminum and / or aluminum / zirconium salts such as aluminum chlorohydrate and / or aluminum / zirconium chlorohydrate
- electrolytes e.g. electrolytes.
- Antiperspirant salts can advantageously be present according to the invention in a concentration of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.
- the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can contain a number of pigments, Contain dyes and pearlescent agents as matting and / or (slightly) covering ingredients.
- the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
- Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
- Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below.
- the Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
- the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
- the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.01 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.015 to 6 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
- the use of one or more green dyes and / or pigments or the combination of green and white dyes and / or pigments can cause reddening of the skin, e.g. Sun-stressed skin, conceals and leads to a browner complexion due to the effect of the complementary colors red (skin) and green (dye).
- Use of pigment green 7 or a combination of pigment green 7 (CI74260) with titanium dioxide is very particularly preferred.
- compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, thickeners, plasticizers, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
- additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, thickeners, plasticizers, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
- the fat and water phases are heated separately to 80 ° C on a laboratory scale.
- the fat phase is presented.
- the perfume is added at 80 ° C, then the water phase is added.
- the emulsion is cooled to room temperature with stirring. Homogenization is not necessary due to the spontaneous formation of the emulsion.
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE10331166 | 2003-07-10 | ||
DE10355541A DE10355541A1 (de) | 2003-07-10 | 2003-11-27 | Hauttönungsprodukt |
PCT/EP2004/005552 WO2005004826A1 (de) | 2003-07-10 | 2004-05-24 | Hauttönungsprodukt enthaltend selbstbräuner zur farbangleichung unterschiedlich pigmentierter hautstellen |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP1648395A1 true EP1648395A1 (de) | 2006-04-26 |
Family
ID=34066312
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP04734516A Ceased EP1648395A1 (de) | 2003-07-10 | 2004-05-24 | Hauttönungsprodukt enthaltend selbstbräuner zur farbangleichung unterschiedlich pigmentierter hautstellen |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
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EP (1) | EP1648395A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2005004826A1 (de) |
Families Citing this family (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE102005021913A1 (de) * | 2005-05-09 | 2006-11-23 | Beiersdorf Ag | Sonnenschutzkit und Verfahren zur Pigmentierungsangleichung |
DE102005036793A1 (de) * | 2005-08-02 | 2007-02-08 | Merck Patent Gmbh | Bräunungsverfahren |
JP4853974B2 (ja) * | 2005-08-05 | 2012-01-11 | 株式会社 資生堂 | セルフタンニング化粧料 |
KR101197489B1 (ko) * | 2005-09-05 | 2012-11-09 | 가부시키가이샤 시세이도 | 셀프태닝 화장료 |
DE102005047647A1 (de) * | 2005-10-05 | 2007-04-12 | Merck Patent Gmbh | a,a'-Dihydroxyketonderivate und deren Verwendung als UV-Filter |
ES2607475T3 (es) * | 2008-08-19 | 2017-03-31 | Dsm Ip Assets B.V. | Nuevas composiciones cosméticas o dermatológicas |
CN110003498B (zh) * | 2019-03-21 | 2020-07-07 | 江南大学 | 一种可食用型的皮克林乳液及其制备方法 |
Family Cites Families (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
IT1020510B (it) * | 1969-10-22 | 1977-12-30 | Oreal | Composizione cosmetica abbronzante |
US4708865A (en) * | 1986-08-21 | 1987-11-24 | Turner Janet N | Method and composition for artificially tanning the human epidermis |
US6024968A (en) * | 1991-08-16 | 2000-02-15 | Lincoln Technologies Inc. | Intersorption composition and method |
DE4318576A1 (de) * | 1993-06-04 | 1994-12-08 | Merck Patent Gmbh | Hautfärbende Zubereitung |
US5514367A (en) * | 1994-02-28 | 1996-05-07 | Estee Lauder, Inc. | Skin tanning compositions and methods for their preparation and use |
GB9612160D0 (en) * | 1996-06-11 | 1996-08-14 | Boots Co Plc | Cosmetic compositions |
JP4065571B2 (ja) * | 1997-03-05 | 2008-03-26 | ペンタファルム アクチェンゲゼルシャフト | エリトルロースと自己褐変性を有する還元糖との組合せ物 |
FR2816836B1 (fr) * | 2000-11-21 | 2003-09-26 | Oreal | Compositions autobronzantes colorees comportant du carmin de cochenille |
WO2002102348A1 (en) * | 2002-05-02 | 2002-12-27 | Priscilla S.R.L. Unipersonale | Anti-stretch mark product and corresponding method |
-
2004
- 2004-05-24 WO PCT/EP2004/005552 patent/WO2005004826A1/de active Application Filing
- 2004-05-24 EP EP04734516A patent/EP1648395A1/de not_active Ceased
Non-Patent Citations (1)
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See references of WO2005004826A1 * |
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WO2005004826A1 (de) | 2005-01-20 |
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