EP1625805A1 - Freibeweglicher Stein zum Hängen von einem Schmuckstück - Google Patents
Freibeweglicher Stein zum Hängen von einem Schmuckstück Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP1625805A1 EP1625805A1 EP04256843A EP04256843A EP1625805A1 EP 1625805 A1 EP1625805 A1 EP 1625805A1 EP 04256843 A EP04256843 A EP 04256843A EP 04256843 A EP04256843 A EP 04256843A EP 1625805 A1 EP1625805 A1 EP 1625805A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stone
- throughbore
- article
- jewellery
- pavilion
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
Definitions
- the present invention generally relates to a stone for suspending from an article of jewelry. More particularly, the present invention is directed to a stone for suspending from an article of jewelry and having improved structural integrity and having improved luster by virtue of reducing refraction, reflection, and dispersion errors, and when suspended from the article of jewelry, by virtue of eliminating visually obstructive conventional settings, has improved scintillation, improved visibility, and gives an impression that it is floating in air or dancing relative to the article of jewelry.
- Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic side elevational view of a prior art round or brilliant stone 10.
- the stone 10 has five basic sections that include a crown 12, a pavilion 14, a table 16, a girdle 18, and a culet 20.
- Each of the crown 12, the pavilion 14, and the table 16 includes at least one facet.
- the crown 12 is said to represent the top of the stone 10, and the pavilion 14 is said to represent the bottom of the stone 10.
- the stone 10 is set with the crown 12 thereof facing out, which in the jewelry trade is referred to as "facing up.”
- the prong setting involves securing a stone between two to six wire prongs that extend up from a base that is usually the shape of the stone and oriented on the same axis as the girdle plane of the stone.
- the prongs are notched to follow the same profile as the stone so that when the prongs are closed onto the stone, the notched profile forms around the girdle of the stone.
- the notches are usually anywhere from one-third to one-half of the diameter of the prong.
- the strength of the prong depends on the type of metal, how the metal was heated, how the prong was formed, how the metal was attached to the design, and how much of a notch was cut. The disadvantages to this type of setting are numerous.
- the notches weaken the prong and make it more likely to break.
- the most common repair on a prong setting is re-tipping whereby metal or solder is added to the top of a worn down prong. This process only works on heat resistant stones, such as diamonds, rubies, or sapphires, which are of sufficient quality so as not to be susceptible to heat expansion stress. If re-tipping does not work, there is a tendency for the prong to snag on clothing, and if one or two prongs break or pull away from the stone, the stone will fall out of the setting.
- the bead setting involves setting a stone into a piece of metal just below the surface by drilling a hole into the metal with a specialized burr that will allow the stone to sit on a seat so that the table of the stone can be positioned just below the surface.
- the stone is then secured to the metal by raising a small bead of metal, with a steel graver or similar tool, immediately next to the stone, until the bead contacts the stone and holds it in the seat.
- the pave setting uses the same process, except that the stones are set in a broader area, as opposed to traditional bead settings that usually follow a straight line or involve just a single stone. Both bead and pave settings often involve stones of 2.5 mm or less. This setting is very secure. The beads, however, still do wear down and can sometimes snag clothing. Also, the stone is essentially buried into the metal, causing 50%-60% of the stone to be hidden.
- the bezel setting is virtually the same as a prong setting, except that the entire perimeter of the stone is covered with a thin ribbon of metal.
- the bezel is usually a tapered or straight solid tube of an appropriate diameter so as to be able to have a seat burred into it so that the stone will sit on it with enough left to be pushed, hammered, or otherwise lowered onto the stone to hold it in the bezel.
- Bezel settings have a smooth edge all around the stone that will not snag, and are very secure. This setting technique, however, covers approximately two-thirds of the stone and the metal will wear down over time.
- a channel setting involves setting a stone in a channel between opposing channel walls. A small seat is cut in each channel wall so that the corresponding size stone will sit between the walls, suspended above the base of the channel. The walls are then hammered onto the edge of the stone until the stone is secure.
- This type of setting most often involves stones of 2.5 mm or less. When larger stones are channel set, they are most often set alone. These stones are at more risk than smaller stones because the channel must be larger and will be more susceptible to expansion. As with other types of settings, the metal will wear down over time.
- An invisible setting is a technique used to set a number of stones together in rows or patterns so that there is no perceptible means of support.
- the stones have a very small groove, just under the girdle, on the pavilion.
- the groove is small enough so as not to be visible from the top, but large enough to accept a thin piece of metal.
- the stones are grouped together into the particular pattern on top of a lattice form that will accommodate each stone.
- the metal is then pushed into the grooves of each stone from the back of the lattice, securing the stones to the lattice form.
- a variation of this technique requires the stones to be notched, much the same way as a tongue and groove arrangement.
- the perimeter stones are set with metal, while the interior stones of the design are set tongue in groove.
- the shape or cut of the stone will determine, in part, how it is to be set. Most shapes can be set in prong or bezel settings, while only round and square stones can be channel set, only round stones can be bead or pave set, and only square stones can be invisibly set. These setting methods are generally used for faceted stones as described above.
- beads and pearls are set using different setting methods than those described above. They usually have a hole drilled into or through them, and are glued to a post, or threaded onto a string or wire. Some stones can also be set this way.
- a briolette is a stone that is usually drop shaped. It is usually tapered and conical and is fully covered with triangular facets. These stones are set in one of three ways. The first way is similar to setting a bead or pearl. A small hole is cut partially into the small end of the stone. A metal post is then coated with an adhesive and inserted into the briolette. The other end of the post can be fashioned into a loop to be suspended from a jewelry design or attached to a base.
- Another setting method is to drill a hole through the stone and pass a wire or cord through the hole, twisting the ends of the wire together, and attaching the resulting loop of wire to a jewelry piece.
- a third method used to set these types of stones is to make a cap that covers one end of the briolette and then attach the cap to a base using an adhesive.
- a disadvantage of all these types of settings is that adhesives tend to become brittle over time. This will affect the quality of the setting and the stone could fall off.
- jewelry setting techniques tend to rely on trapping a stone in a metal finding or adhesively connecting a stone to a finding or mounting device. If the stone moves or is loose in the setting, or if the adhesive connection weakens, it is generally considered unsafe. These techniques either end up obscuring a portion of the stone resulting in a loss of observed scintillation when the stone is moved or more precisely when the setting moves the stone, make the stone immovable relative to the setting, create a situation where a part of the setting wears out and needs repairs, or have parts that can easily snag on things and break.
- United States Patent Number 6,412,304 to Adelman teaches a method of making jewelry including providing an item to be mounted, creating a throughbore in the item, threading an elongated member through the item, providing a finding, providing a laser, and attaching the elongated member through the item, providing the item is suspended adjacent to the finding. More specifically, Adelman teaches positioning the throughbore anywhere through the item, without a need for specific surfaces, only that preferably the throughbore should be approximately 1 mm from the edge of the item. Although Adelman teaches putting a throughbore in an item, it is silent as to the specific surfaces of the item through which the throughbore extends. Thus, Adelman teaches a non-surface specific throughbore.
- United States Patent Number 6,681,599 to Meguro teaches a jewelry pendant that includes a flat anchor portion provided on the back surface of a pedestal that includes a chain connecting portion formed in an upper part thereof.
- a suspension portion is formed in a projecting manner on the front surface of the pedestal at substantially the center position thereof and a suspension hole is formed at the tip of the suspension portion.
- a decorative piece is swingably suspended through the suspension hole. More specifically, Meguro teaches encircling the girdle of a stone with a ring.
- It is still yet another object of the present invention is to provide a stone for suspending from an article of jewelry that has improved scintillation when suspended from the article of jewelry by virtue of eliminating visually obstructive conventional settings.
- an improved stone for suspending from an article of jewelry object and being of the type having a crown, a pavilion, a table, a girdle, and a culet.
- the improvement includes a throughbore extending from the crown of the stone to the pavilion of the stone allowing the stone to have improved structural integrity and to have improved luster by virtue of reducing refraction, reflection, and dispersion errors, and when suspended by the throughbore from the article of jewelry, by virtue of eliminating visually obstructive conventional settings, has improved scintillation, improved visibility, and gives an impression that it is floating in air or dancing relative to the article of jewelry.
- Figs. 2A-2C are exemplary top, side and bottom views, respectively, of a round or brilliant cut stone in accordance with the present invention.
- the stone 30 includes a crown 12, the pavilion 12, the table 16, the girdle, 18, and the culet 20.
- the stone 30 may be a gemstone, such as a diamond, whether natural, synthetic, or treated by high pressure high temperature (HPHT), radiation, or color coating, or synthetic, such as cubic zirconium, and may be a variety of shapes, such as round princess, radiant, marquise, pear, hear and others.
- the stone further includes a throughbore 34.
- the throughbore extends from the crown 12 to the pavilion 14 of stone 30: Applicant has discovered that when the throughbore 34 extends from the crown 12 to the pavilion 14 of the stone 30, the structural integrity of the stone 30 is improved and the luster of the stone 30 is improved by virtue of reducing refraction, reflection, and dispersion errors, and when the stone 30 is suspended by the throughbore 34 from an article of jewelry 32 (depicted in and described with reference to Figs. 4 and 5), by virtue of eliminating visually obstructive conventional settings, the scintillation of the stone 30 is improved, the visibility of the stone 30 is improved, and the stone 30 gives an impression that it is floating in air or dancing relative to the article of jewelry.
- the throughbore 34 has a width and the stone 30 has a weight.
- the width of the throughbore 34 varies with the weight of the stone 30.
- the widths of the throughbore 34 in the stone 30 for the various weights of the stone 30 are depicted in the table of Fig. 7. As depicted in Fig.
- the throughbore 34 has a width preferably in a range of approximately 0.30 mm to approximately 0.40 mm when the weight of the stone 30 is no greater than 0.199 carats, a width preferably in a range of approximately 0.40 mm to approximately 0.50 mm when the weight of the stone 30 is in a range of 0.20 carats to 0.499 carats, and a width preferably of 0.50 mm when the weight of the stone 30 is at least 0.50 carats.
- the previous widths of the throughbore 34 are preferred, the widths of throughbore 34 are not thereby limited and may vary depending on the shape and size of the stone.
- Fig. 3 is an exemplary side view, in partial section, of the stone depicted in Figs. 2A-2C with a setting device setting the stone via the throughbore.
- the setting device 36 is preferably a loop.
- the loop is preferably an endless wire and is preferably made of a precious metal, such as gold or platinum, a semi-precious metal, such as silver, or another metal. Alternatively, the loop may be made of translucent soft plastic.
- the setting device 36 passes freely through the throughbore 34, suspending the stone 30 therefrom and allowing the stone movement.
- the cooperation of the setting device 36 and the throughbore 34 enable the stone 30 to swing freely in various degrees of freedom, i.e., left to right, as well as, front to back.
- Fig. 4 depicts an exemplary side view of an article of jewelry suspending therefrom the stone depicted in Figs. 2A-2C, set with the setting device depicted in Fig. 3.
- the stone 30 and the setting device 36 are shown by dotted curve 38.
- the cooperation of the setting device 36 and the throughbore 34 enable the stone 30 to hang vertically and further enhance the ability of the stone 30 to swing freely relative to the article of jewelry 32, i.e., stone's freedom of movement relative to the article of jewelry.
- the setting device 36 suspends from the article of jewelry 32 so as to suspend the stone 30 from the article of jewelry 32.
- the setting device 36 and the throughbore 34 enable the stone 30 to have improved scintillation, improved visibility, and gives an impression that it is floating in air or dancing relative to an article of jewelry 32.
- Fig. 5 is an exemplary perspective view an article of jewelry of Fig. 4 further suspended from another article of jewelry. More specifically, the article of jewelry 32 suspending therefrom the stone 30 via the setting device 36 cooperating with throughbore 34 are shown by the dotted curve 40. The article of jewelry 32, suspending therefrom the stone 30, may further be suspended from a necklace adorning a person 44. Furthermore, this article of jewelry 32 may be suspended from earrings, pendants and other articles of jewelry.
- Figs. 6A-6C depict an exemplary flowchart method for preparing the stone depicted in Figs. 2A-2C for suspending from the article of jewelry 32.
- the method of preparing the stone 30 for suspending from the article of jewelry 32 comprises the following steps:
Landscapes
- Adornments (AREA)
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US10/918,255 US20060032271A1 (en) | 2004-08-13 | 2004-08-13 | Dancing stone for suspending from an article of jewelry |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1625805A1 true EP1625805A1 (de) | 2006-02-15 |
EP1625805B1 EP1625805B1 (de) | 2008-03-26 |
Family
ID=35429503
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP04256843A Not-in-force EP1625805B1 (de) | 2004-08-13 | 2004-11-04 | Freibeweglicher Stein herabhängend von einem Schmuckstück |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US20060032271A1 (de) |
EP (1) | EP1625805B1 (de) |
AT (1) | ATE390057T1 (de) |
DE (1) | DE602004012739D1 (de) |
Families Citing this family (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP5049364B2 (ja) * | 2010-03-03 | 2012-10-17 | 光晴 林 | 宝飾品 |
US20120079853A1 (en) * | 2010-10-01 | 2012-04-05 | Blasbichler Guenther | Gem with brilliant cut |
USD1015928S1 (en) * | 2022-06-23 | 2024-02-27 | Lumex DMCC | Oval cut diamond |
Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US6412304B1 (en) * | 1999-05-24 | 2002-07-02 | Stuart J. Adelman | Jewelry |
Family Cites Families (14)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US1560414A (en) * | 1924-09-11 | 1925-11-03 | Boucheron & Radius Soc | Method of piercing, threading, and enameling transparent precious stones |
US1745365A (en) * | 1928-08-22 | 1930-02-04 | Feiler Saul | Decorative article |
USD279082S (en) * | 1982-12-06 | 1985-06-04 | Marina B. Creations, S.A. | Earring |
FR2609606B1 (fr) * | 1987-01-19 | 1991-01-11 | Bouder Ets Serge | Procede de sertissage de pierres precieuses ainsi que bijou obtenu par la mise en oeuvre de ce procede |
JPH07108007A (ja) * | 1993-10-13 | 1995-04-25 | Daiwa Kako Kk | 装飾品 |
US5573330A (en) * | 1995-06-16 | 1996-11-12 | Schonbek Worldwide Lighting Inc. | Joining device for chandelier ornaments |
US5727577A (en) * | 1995-07-27 | 1998-03-17 | Post; James M. | Optical ornament |
US6250798B1 (en) * | 1998-09-21 | 2001-06-26 | John Paul Brainard | Solar crystal motion device |
USD460710S1 (en) * | 2000-06-13 | 2002-07-23 | D. Swarovski & Co. | Glass pendant |
USD447978S1 (en) * | 2000-10-19 | 2001-09-18 | Pluczenik Diamond Company N.V. | Diamond |
US7261444B2 (en) * | 2004-02-05 | 2007-08-28 | Schonbek Worldwide Lighting, Inc. | Arrangements and methods for connecting decorative ornaments |
USD513714S1 (en) * | 2004-05-19 | 2006-01-24 | K.P. Sanghvi & Sons | Gemstone |
US7225851B2 (en) * | 2005-01-14 | 2007-06-05 | Schonbek Worldwide Lighting Inc. | Methods and apparatus for displaying decorative ornament curtains |
USD534093S1 (en) * | 2006-01-13 | 2006-12-26 | Hayloft Enterprises, Inc. | Novelty device |
-
2004
- 2004-08-13 US US10/918,255 patent/US20060032271A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2004-11-04 AT AT04256843T patent/ATE390057T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2004-11-04 DE DE602004012739T patent/DE602004012739D1/de active Active
- 2004-11-04 EP EP04256843A patent/EP1625805B1/de not_active Not-in-force
Patent Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US6412304B1 (en) * | 1999-05-24 | 2002-07-02 | Stuart J. Adelman | Jewelry |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE602004012739D1 (de) | 2008-05-08 |
ATE390057T1 (de) | 2008-04-15 |
EP1625805B1 (de) | 2008-03-26 |
US20060032271A1 (en) | 2006-02-16 |
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