Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/08—Antiseborrheics
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • G—PHYSICS
  • G09—EDUCATION; CRYPTOGRAPHY; DISPLAY; ADVERTISING; SEALS
  • G09B—EDUCATIONAL OR DEMONSTRATION APPLIANCES; APPLIANCES FOR TEACHING, OR COMMUNICATING WITH, THE BLIND, DEAF OR MUTE; MODELS; PLANETARIA; GLOBES; MAPS; DIAGRAMS
  • G09B19/00—Teaching not covered by other main groups of this subclass
  • G09B19/0076—Body hygiene; Dressing; Knot tying

Definitions

• Cosmetic composition mimicking sebum, and uses.
• the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition mimicking sebum, a method of preparation, the use in cosmetics of a cosmetic composition mimicking sebum, the use of a cosmetic composition mimicking sebum for the preparation of an equivalent of skin comprising a sebum equivalent, a skin equivalent comprising a sebum equivalent and the use of a skin equivalent comprising a sebum equivalent.
• Sebum is a product excreted by the sebaceous glands of the skin of most mammals.
• the excretion mechanism is a holocrine mechanism by which sebum is deposited on the surface of the skin.
• One of the roles of sebum is to provide the skin and hair with a hydrophobic coating through the sebaceous canals.
• human sebum has unique characteristics compared to that of other mammals. In particular, it contains a very small portion of cholesterol derivatives and a large amount of squalene.
• sebum in some cases (significant photo-oxidative stress, over-proliferation of the bacterial flora 7) is probably a disruptive factor in skin homeostasis, the effects of which are possibly expressed by undesirable side effects in the deep layers of the epidermis. Sebum is particularly present on the face, in the perineal and frontal areas.
• the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition mimicking sebum, comprising at least one lipophilic fraction itself comprising at least: from 5% to 20% of squalene, from 50% to 70% of a mixture of triglycerides d linear fatty acids having a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms and linear fatty acids having a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, from 15% to 25% of esters of linear fatty acids and fatty alcohols linear having chains of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, from 0.5% to 3% of cholesterol esters, the acid fraction of which comprises a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms and from 0% to 5% of cholesterol.
• the ratio between unsaturated fatty chains and saturated fatty chains is between 10 and 0.1.
• linear fatty acid functions free or in the form of esters, saturated or unsaturated, having a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, there may be mentioned lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachidic, docosanoic myristoleic, palmitoleic, oleic acids , linoleic, linolenic, ⁇ -linolenic or even arachidonic.
• linear, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms there may be mentioned lauryl, myristilic, cetyl, stearyl alcohols or also oleilic alcohol.
• the squalene can be in an amount representing from 12% to 18% of the lipophilic fraction.
• the mixture of triglycerides linear fatty acids having a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms and linear fatty acids having a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms may be in an amount representing from 56% to 64% of the lipophilic fraction.
• esters of linear fatty acids and of linear fatty alcohols having chains of 12 to 22 carbon atoms can be in an amount representing from 19% to 22% of the lipophilic fraction .
• the cholesterol esters whose acid fraction comprises a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms may be in an amount representing from 0% to 1.5% of the lipophilic fraction.
• the cholesterol can be in an amount representing from 1% to 3% of the lipophilic fraction.
• the ratio between unsaturated fatty chains and saturated fatty chains is between 5 and 0.2.
• the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition mimicking sebum, characterized in that it comprises at least 12% to 18% of squalene, from 0% to 10% of trimyristine, from 0% to 10% of trimyristoline , from 0% to 10% of tripalmitin, from 0% to 10% of tripalmitoline from 0% to 20% of triolein, from 0% to 10% of tristearin, from 0% to 60% glycerol, from 0% to 15% oleic acid, 0% to 10% palmitic acid, 0% to 15% palmitoleic acid, 0% to 10% myristic acid, 0% to 10% myristoleic acid, 5% to 20% of myristyl oleate, 5% to 10% of palmityl oleate, 0.5% to 3% of cholesteryl palmitate and 0% to 5% of cholesterol.
• squalene from 0% to 10% of trimyristine, from 0% to 10% of trimyristoline , from 0% to 10% of tripalmitin,
• This lipid composition will be such that the sum of the percentages of the free fatty acid fractions added to the sum of the percentages of the triglyceride fractions will be between 55% and 65%.
• the ratio between unsaturated fatty chains and saturated fatty chains is between 8 and 0.2.
• a very particular composition of the invention is a composition which comprises at least 16% of squalene, 8% of tripalmitine, 18% of tripalmitoline, 12% of trioleine, 10% of oleic acid, 7% of palmitoleic acid, 5 % myristoleic acid, 10% myristyl oleate, 10% palmityl oleate, 1% cholesteryl oleate and 3% cholesterol.
• This cosmetic composition may contain all the active agents, in particular lipophilic agents, capable of improving or modifying the skin condition. More particularly, the composition of the invention can comprise vitamin E at a concentration of between 0.0025% and 0.01% and preferably between 0.001% and 0.1%.
• Another object of the invention is a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition as described, comprising a first step of weighing each of the ingredients entering into the composition in a sterile container, opaque to light, previously coated with a coating. non-stick, a second step of replacing the air with an inert gas, a third step of raising the temperature to a temperature between 50 ° C. and 100 ° C, preferably between 80 ° C and a fourth step of maintaining the temperature for a time between 25 to 45 minutes, preferably 30 and 40 minutes, with stirring.
• the non-stick coating can be obtained by applying a silane product, particularly a solution of dimethyldichlorosilane in 1, 1, 1 tricholoroethane, very particularly dimethyldichlorosilane at a concentration of between 10g / l and 30g. / l, preferably 20 g / l in 1, 1, 1 tricholoroethane.
• a silane product particularly a solution of dimethyldichlorosilane in 1, 1, 1 tricholoroethane, very particularly dimethyldichlorosilane at a concentration of between 10g / l and 30g. / l, preferably 20 g / l in 1, 1, 1 tricholoroethane.
• the inert gas used in the preparation process can be chosen from argon, nitrogen, neon, krypton, xenon.
• argon Preferably we use argon.
• the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition capable of being obtained by the process which has just been described.
• the subject of the invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition as described for overcoming the unsightly inconveniences associated with a sebum deficit, particularly for treating dry skin.
• robust solution is meant a solution which would make it possible to eliminate the phenomenon of lateral diffusion without having to systematically verify or verify by a clinical test the lateral diffusion of the constituents of the formula which is intended for the market and be obliged to modify dramatically the composition of this formula if this effect is observed.
• the invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition mimicking sebum, particularly that described above, for controlling the lateral diffusion of cosmetic formulas or active agents.
• the cosmetic composition mimicking sebum is applied prior to the application of the cosmetic formulas or active agents, in particular on asbogenic (body) or sebogenic areas but cleaned as is the case for example before making up the face.
• the invention will make it possible to avoid the lateral diffusion of the active agents and pigment contained in makeup products.
• the invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for limiting the lateral diffusion of cosmetic formulations, characterized in that it comprises a step consisting in applying to the skin, the mucous membranes or the scalp, a composition mimicking sebum such as defined above, and a second step consisting in applying the cosmetic formulation to the zone previously treated with the composition mimicking sebum.
• the cosmetic formulation may in particular be a cosmetic active agent intended to improve the appearance or the condition of the skin, or a makeup product, intended to color or mask parts of the skin covering.
• the skin equivalents available are characterized by the absence of sebum or sebum equivalent. It would be particularly interesting, to study the phenomena of sebogenesis and in particular comedogenesis, to have a model of skin reconstructed surface with a lipid composition close to sebum.
• Another object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic composition mimicking sebum, particularly that described above, for the preparation of a skin equivalent comprising a sebum equivalent.
• compositions mimicking sebum on reconstructed skins in order to obtain physiological or super physiological sebum mimetic rates.
• the sebum is applied in the form of a composition obtained by dispersion or of an emulsion of a sebum analog as defined above in a physiological liquid, with a dilution of between 1/50 and 3/20, preferably about 1/20; this dilution being adapted by those skilled in the art depending on the desired end result.
• a composition obtained by dispersion or of an emulsion of a sebum analog as defined above in a physiological liquid with a dilution of between 1/50 and 3/20, preferably about 1/20; this dilution being adapted by those skilled in the art depending on the desired end result.
• such formulations can be obtained without adding conventional formulation additives in cosmetics, such as surfactants or preservatives.
• the subject of the invention is therefore the process for preparing the compositions intended to be applied to the skin equivalents.
• physiological liquid in particular aqueous phases compatible with tissues, such as water, more or less diluted saline solutions such as physiological saline, cell culture and maintenance media, serum, sweat and their mixtures in all proportions.
• composition obtained by diluting the sebum analog is applied to the reconstructed skin, this application being able to be repeated over time, on a regular basis.
• the subject of the invention is also a skin equivalent comprising an equivalent of sebum, particularly an equivalent of sebum constituted by the cosmetic composition of the invention.
• a skin equivalent comprising on its surface, a sebum equivalent at a concentration of between 0 and 600 ⁇ g / cm 2 , preferably greater than or equal to 50 ⁇ g / cm 2 .
• the final concentration will be adjusted by a person skilled in the art according to the use of the reconstructed epidermis, it will preferably be less than or equal to 400 ⁇ g / cm 2 , in particular less than or equal to 300 ⁇ g cm 2 .
• the invention also relates to the use of a skin equivalent comprising a sebum equivalent as described above for studying the interactions between the skin tissue, particularly the epidermis and / or the dermis, and the sebum, particularly in the skin homeostasis.
• the invention also relates to the use of a skin equivalent comprising a sebum equivalent as described above for studying the interactions between the skin tissue, particularly the epidermis and / or the dermis, and the sebum after modification of the latter by different exogenous and / or endogenous environmental factors or to assess the efficacy, penetration or toxicity of raw materials and cosmetic formulations.
• the Applicant has surprisingly noticed that the repeated treatment of a composition mimicking sebum rich in fatty acids on a reconstructed epidermis model has the effect of gradually thickening the surface layers of the epidermis to the detriment of the deep living layers.
• the Applicant has been able to show by viability and cell proliferation measures that the effect observed is not due to cytotoxicity.
• the triglycerides of sebum are transformed into free fatty acids, known for their comedogenic properties. Under these conditions, one observes at the level of the pilosebaceous channel, a hyperproliferation of keratinocytes of the infrainfundibulum associated with a hypercomification.
• the Applicant notes an analogy between the natural phenomenon of comedogenesis and that induced on an equivalent of skin comprising an equivalent of sebum rich in free fatty acids.
• the Applicant therefore proposes the use of such a biomimetic sebum, enriched in free fatty acids for the preparation of a reconstructed skin model allowing, in particular the evaluation of new substances or combinations of anti-comedogenic substances.
• the percentage of free fatty acids present in the composition mimicking sebum is greater than or equal to 40%.
• the subject of the invention is also the use of a skin equivalent comprising a sebum equivalent as described above to study comedogenesis in the presence or in the absence of cosmetic formulas or active agents.
• the invention finally relates to a process for preparing a dispersion of the cosmetic composition of the invention, allowing its application both on normal skin and on skin equivalents which comprises a step of dispersing the composition as prepared according to the invention and maintained at a temperature between 50 ° C and 100 ° C, preferably 80 ° C, in a liquid physiological medium, preferably chosen from sweat, physiological saline, a physiological medium containing serum albumin bovine (BSA), skim milk or any other surfactant or a cell culture medium.
• a liquid physiological medium preferably chosen from sweat, physiological saline, a physiological medium containing serum albumin bovine (BSA), skim milk or any other surfactant or a cell culture medium.
• a preferred embodiment of the dispersion according to the invention consists in a light opaque flask previously coated with a non-stick coating, to weigh a desired amount of artificial sebum, to add a desired amount of physiological liquid medium, to heat at a temperature between 50 ° C. and 100 ° C, preferably at 80 ° C, for a time between 10 seconds and one minute, preferably 20 seconds, pass the flask through an ultrasonic bath for a time between 10 seconds and 2 minutes, preferably 30 seconds and then shake with a vortex for a time between 5 seconds and one minute, preferably 10 seconds.
• the desired quantities of artificial sebum and of liquid physiological medium are such that the application of 2 ⁇ l of the dispersion provides the skin with the physiological quantity necessary, namely 10O ⁇ g of sebum.
• one of the advantages of the invention is to allow the delivery to the skin of a physiological amount of sebum, that is to say for normal skin between 100 to 200 ⁇ g / cm 2 , which, to the knowledge of Applicant is not realized in the solutions proposed by the prior art.
• the following cosmetic composition mimicking the sebum S1 is produced.
• the amounts are given as a percentage of the total weight of the composition: squalene 16% tripalmitin 8% tripalmitoline 18% triolein 12% oleic acid 10% palmitoleic acid 7% myristoleic acid 5% myristyl oleate 10% palmityl oleate 10% cholesteryl oleate 1% cholesterol 3%
• the reconstituted sebum solidifies after 10 minutes at room temperature, so it is necessary to keep it in a water bath at 80 ° C until the dispersion is prepared.
• the sebum is kept under Argon.
• Example 2 Preparation of the dispersion: In a previously silanized amber flask, 10 mg of artificial sebum S1 of Example 1 are weighed, then 200 ⁇ l of DMEM / F12 culture medium 1: 1 is added (Eagle medium modified by Dulbecco / Mixture nutrient-F12). The flask is then heated in a water bath at 80 ° C for 20 seconds, and then passed into an ultrasonic bath for 30 seconds and finally stirred with a vortex for 10 seconds.
• DMEM / F12 culture medium 1: 1 is added (Eagle medium modified by Dulbecco / Mixture nutrient-F12).
• the desired amount of artificial sebum S1 can then be applied to the skin (normal or artificial) by spreading using a spatula.
• the dispersed form has the advantage of allowing the application of physiological amount of artificial sebum, ie between 100 to 200 ⁇ g / cm 2 .
• the effect of diffusion of the formulas is estimated on the forearm of voluntary subjects.
• the formulas are applied up to 2mg.cm "1.
• the application surface is a rectangle of 4cm by 7cm (28cm 2 are therefore treated) whose length is positioned in the axis of the arm.
• the strip stripping method (Wigman, H. et al., (1999) Skin Pharmacopoeia. Apple. Skin Physiol. 12, 46-53.5) is evaluated, the residual amount of butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane in the central part and the part which has migrated more 3mm from the edges of the rectangle.
• compositions of formulas I and II The quantities are given as a percentage by weight of the total weight of the composition
• Example 4 Effect of the pre-treatment with the sebum S1 of Example 1 on the lateral diffusion of the formula II:
• Example 3 The protocol of Example 3 is repeated with formula II. 1 hour before the application of formula II, a suspension of sebum S1 from Example 1 at 5% in an aqueous 0.9% NaCl solution is applied to the right forearm (forearm left as a witness), so that a measurement at sebumeter (MONADERM TM) indicates an application of 200 ⁇ g.cm "2.
• the surface of application of sebum S1 is a rectangle whose center is identical to that of application of the formulas (example 3) and whose length and width are 2 cm higher than the latter (i.e. a 6 x 7 cm rectangle).
• the amount of sebum S1 actually applied in this example ( ⁇ 200 ⁇ g.cm '2 ) is analogous to the amount of sebum naturally found on the surface of the face (anatomical area, naturally seborrheic) of individuals with normally oily skin. This does not mean, however, that individuals with oily skin would not be affected by the phenomenon of lateral diffusion since facial care products are, in general, applied to a clean and therefore defatted face.
• Epskin® compositions progressively enriched in free fatty acids, to obtain a comedogenesis model.
• the figure in the appendix shows the changes in the proliferation / differentiation balance on day 13.
• the thickening of the epidermis is observed from a sebum composition comprising 40% fatty acids.
• morphological change induced in vitro presents an analogy with the natural phenomenon of comedogenesis.
• a hyperproliferation of the keratinocytes of the infrainfundibulum associated with hypercomification is observed in the pilosebaceous canal.

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• 2001
  • 2001-10-30 FR FR0114033A patent/FR2831442B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2002
  • 2002-10-28 EP EP02796831A patent/EP1482907A2/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2002-10-28 WO PCT/FR2002/003693 patent/WO2003037288A2/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2002-10-28 US US10/509,760 patent/US20050175646A1/en not_active Abandoned
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