EP1450756A1 - Emulsions nettoyantes cosmetiques contenant des principes actifs - Google Patents

Emulsions nettoyantes cosmetiques contenant des principes actifs

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Publication number
EP1450756A1
EP1450756A1 EP02782965A EP02782965A EP1450756A1 EP 1450756 A1 EP1450756 A1 EP 1450756A1 EP 02782965 A EP02782965 A EP 02782965A EP 02782965 A EP02782965 A EP 02782965A EP 1450756 A1 EP1450756 A1 EP 1450756A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sodium
surfactants
cosmetic
group
skin
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP02782965A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stephan Ruppert
Michaela Kohut
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1450756A1 publication Critical patent/EP1450756A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic cleaning emulsions containing active ingredient, in particular those which do not contain an emulsifier in the conventional sense.
  • Cleaning means the removal of (environmental) dirt and thus increases the psychological and physical well-being.
  • Cleaning the surface of skin and hair is a very complex process that depends on many parameters.
  • substances coming from outside such as hydrocarbons or inorganic pigments from a wide variety of environments, as well as residues from cosmetics or undesired microorganisms, are to be removed as completely as possible.
  • the body's excretions such as sweat, sebum, skin and hair flakes can be washed off without deep intervention in the physiological balance.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations are so-called “rinse off” preparations, which are rinsed off the skin after use. They are generally applied in the form of a foam with water to the parts of the body to be cleaned. All cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations are based on detergent surfactants.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water and are characterized by an ambivalent behavior towards water and lipids:
  • the surfactant molecule contains at least one hydrophilic and one lipophilic group, which bind to the interface between them In this way, surfactants ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, facilitating the removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and - if desired - also foam regulation Removal of lipid-containing contaminants.
  • hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 ' , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues.
  • Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or in aqueous solution depending on the pH cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
  • B + any cation, eg Na +
  • Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • the detergent surfactants in cosmetic and dermatological cleaning agents are subject to a very critical assessment with regard to their dermatological and ecological behavior. The latter is particularly important because they are used in considerable quantities and are discharged as intended after use.
  • the skin's swelling initially swells.
  • the degree of this swelling depends on a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature.
  • water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the homolayer.
  • Skin oils are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent by the skin's own surface-active substances. After initial swelling, this causes the skin to dry out subsequently.
  • wash-active surfactants which are supposed to clean greasy and water-soluble dirt components from the skin and hair, also have a degreasing effect on normal skin lipids. Every time you cleanse your skin to different degrees also intercomomeocytic lipids and sebum components removed. This means that the natural water-lipid coat of the skin is disturbed or less disturbed with every wash. This can lead to a short-term change in the barrier function of the skin, particularly in the case of extreme degreasing, although the respective state of the treated skin region is of course also of considerable influence on the changes shown. For example, the thickness of the skin, the number of sebum and sweat glands and the sensitivity associated with it can vary considerably.
  • wash-active surfactants are biologically as inactive as possible in order to avoid undesirable side effects. They should develop their cleaning effect with optimal mildness, best skin compatibility and low degreasing.
  • Another task of the active ingredients is to accelerate skin regeneration, which leads to a faster restoration of the natural balance of the skin after washing with skin-irritating surfactants.
  • Another task of the active ingredients is the replacement of lipids, moisturizing factors, vitamins and other skin components that have been washed out during the washing process.
  • Active ingredients UV filters
  • UV filters can also be used to protect the skin from the harmful UV radiation from sunlight.
  • cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations are very well tailored to an assumed range of uses, since the mechanical parameters, such as the time factor, which vary depending on the application, are of particular importance for a defined, mild cleaning effect. B. clearly, if you consider the different Arjiwend (contact) times of a foam bath compared to brief hand washing.
  • Cosmetic cleaning agents mostly contain mixtures of tensi n different
  • Liquid soaps or washing lotions are not only used to clean the hands, but usually also for the whole body, including the face. Accordingly, they are also suitable for use as a shower preparation.
  • the dermatological requirements are paramount, since the skin comes into intensive contact with the concentrated surfactant solution. Special emphasis is therefore placed on the selection of mild surfactants in low concentrations. Further criteria are good foaming power as well as a pleasant, refreshing fragrance and the simultaneous care of the skin.
  • Washing lotions and shower baths in particular generally have viscosities of around 3,000 to 10,000 mPa-s, which on the one hand allow the product to be spread easily with quick foaming, but on the other hand should be high enough to enable perfect use by hand or washcloth.
  • Liquid soaps or washing lotions are generally characterized by a more or less high water content, but usually do not have a noticeable care effect, since they have only a low oil content.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift 44 24 210 describes cosmetic or dermatological shower preparations with a surfactant content of at most 55% by weight and an oil content of more than 45% by weight, whereby the preparations are essentially anhydrous. Due to the high oil content, these preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition. At the same time, they have good foam development and high cleaning power.
  • WO 96/17591 describes foaming liquid skin cleaning compositions which contain the following substances: 5 to 30% by weight of a moisturizing active ingredient which has a Vaughan Solubility Parameter (VSP) of 5 to 10, 0.3 to 5% by weight. % of a water-dispersible gel-form polymer, 5 to 30% by weight of a synthetic surface-active substance, 0 to 15% by weight of a C 8 to C 14 fatty acid soap and water, the preparations comprising a lipid deposition
  • VSP Vaughan Solubility Parameter
  • Emulsifiers also have an amphiphilic structure, so their structure is comparable to that of surfactants. Emulsifiers enable or facilitate the uniform distribution of two or more immiscible phases and at the same time prevent their separation. Since emulsions are generally destroyed by the addition of surfactants, the choice of surfactant system is severely restricted, and the cleaning preparations obtained are based on expensive and complicated formulations.
  • HLB value a dimensionless number between 0 and 20
  • HLB value a dimensionless number between 0 and 20
  • Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic.
  • the HLB value says something about the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emul gators out. It can be derived from these considerations that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following list shows the relationship between the HLB value and the possible area of application:
  • the HLB value of an emulsifier can also be composed of increments, the HLB increments for the various hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups from which a molecule is composed can be found in tables.
  • HLB values can also be determined for detergent surfactants in this way, although the HLB system was originally designed only for emulsifiers. It can be seen that washing-active substances generally have HLB weights that are significantly larger than 20.
  • the preparations should also have a high care effect without detracting from the cleaning effect.
  • the present invention further relates to wash-active hair cosmetic preparations, generally referred to as shampoos.
  • the present invention relates to hair cosmetic active ingredient combinations and preparations for the care of the hair and scalp.
  • the prior art lacks shampoo formulations which give satisfactory care to damaged hair. ' The task was therefore to remedy these disadvantages of the prior art.
  • wash-active surfactants selected from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 15,
  • polyacrylates selected from the group which is formed from anionic homo- and / or copolymers of acrylic acid and / or alkylated acrylic acid derivatives and their esters and;
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological cleaning emulsions in the sense of the present invention are based on simple and inexpensive formulations. They have good foam development and high cleaning power at the same time. Due to the high oil content, these preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.
  • the active ingredients incorporated into the cleaning emulsions according to the invention serve, among other things, for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined and dry skin (such as, for example, atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, wound healing disorders , Itching, sensitive or irritated skin, light-induced skin damage and UV-induced immunosuppression, changes in desquamation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation of deficient sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or defective sensitive or sensitive skin conditions or deficient sensitive conditions Reduction in skin thickness).
  • sensitive, determined and dry skin such as, for example, atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis
  • the cleaning emulsions advantageously contain one or more wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants according to the invention. It is particularly advantageous that the active washing or washing! To select surfactants from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, those which have an HLB value of more than 35 are particularly advantageous.
  • wash-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acylamino acids and their salts, such as
  • acylglutamates especially sodium acylglutamate
  • Sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • Acyl isethionates e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dinajtrium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecyl'enamido MEA sulfosuccinate
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MI PA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium and sodium C 12th 13 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Benzalkonium chloride, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultain are advantageous.
  • wash-active amphoteric surfactants in the sense of the present invention are Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,
  • Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate
  • wash-active non-ionic surfactants in the sense of the present invention !
  • Alkanolamides such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MI PA,
  • esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, ⁇ ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, i
  • anionic surfactants are ⁇ taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocjoyl taurate,
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • ⁇ phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-Oleth- ⁇ 0 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, ⁇ alkyl sulfonates, such as sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate ! Sodium C- ⁇ 2 - ⁇ 4 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also ⁇ acyl glutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate and sodium caprylic / Gapric glutamate,
  • carboxylic acids and derivatives such as lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc decylate,
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, Lau'reth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate, ⁇ alkylarylsulfonates.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • the content of one or more detersive surfactants in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion is selected from the range from 5 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20% by weight , each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the oil phase of the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-hexyl-ethyl-ethyl-hexyl-ethyl-ethyl-ethyl 2-octyldodecyl.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl advantageous, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, d 2-15 -alkyl, Ca Pryl-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12 . ⁇ 5 alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea- rat, mixtures of C 12 - ⁇ s benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 12th 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • paraffin oil paraffin oil
  • squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • silicone oils are also beneficial in the sense to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
  • the oil phase is also advantageously selected from the group of phospholipids.
  • Phospholipids are phosphoric acid esters of acylated glycerols.
  • the phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins, which are characterized by the general structure
  • R ' and R typically represent unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bondsj.
  • Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are polymers of acrylic acid, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopolle (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the B.F. Goodrich Company). Polyacrylates are compounds of the general structural formula
  • the group of polyacrylates also includes acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, for example those which are distinguished by the following structure:
  • R ' represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • Examples of advantageous carbopoles are types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954,
  • Carbopol 981, 1382 and ETD 2020 both individually and in
  • Copolymers comparable to copolymers of C 10 - 3 o-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters.
  • the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer”.
  • the content of one or more polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion is in the range from 0.5 to 2% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight. -% is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is cleaning emulsions which contain at least one anionic surfactant and at least one thickener based on C 1 -C 30 -alkyl acrylates as polyacrylate as wash-active surfactants.
  • Sodium laureth sulfate is special as an anionic surfactant prefers. This combination of ingredients is characterized by its stability, its foaming behavior and its particularly pleasant feeling on the skin.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form.
  • compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, refatting agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickening agents, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, refatting agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickening agents, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers
  • I can be used as inexpensive antioxidants all antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, ⁇ -lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thio redoxin e.g. thio redoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N ⁇ acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl J cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoxone, pentane ion) -, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g.
  • citro- nenoic acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives furfurylidensorbitol and its Derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • Selenium and its derivatives e.g. selenium methionine
  • stilbenes and their derivatives e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the emulsions is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight,
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • the active ingredients can be selected very advantageously from the group of active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
  • the active substances from the group of refatting substances, for example purcellin oil, Eucerit and Neocerit.
  • the active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin should serve.
  • the preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Came'Ilia sinensis (green tea).
  • Their typical ingredients such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids are particularly advantageous.
  • Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catedhol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman -3,5,7-trioI)
  • Catatechin ((2R.3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.
  • Plant extracts containing catechins in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. Extracts from leaves of the plants
  • Camellia spec especially the types of tea Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.
  • Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) -Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Flavon and its derivatives are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):
  • flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Zi to Z 6 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Gly 1 ( Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly-i, Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, g ⁇ losyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously.
  • pentosyl residues may also be advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  • Gly 1; Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently or represent monoglycoside residues. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly ⁇ Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl residues, in particular the rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues.
  • other hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously.
  • pentosyl residues it is particularly advantageous to select the flavone glycoside (s) from the group ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin ,! ⁇ -Glucosylisocercitrin, -Glucosylisoquercetin and ⁇ -Glucosylquercitrin.
  • ⁇ -glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.
  • naringin aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid
  • hesperidin 3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside
  • hesperidoside hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside
  • Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-di-hydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4 ', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin
  • the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.
  • ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C- Atoms as U-5, U-10,
  • Coenzyme Q10 which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:
  • Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  • Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.
  • acyl-carnitine which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula
  • R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention.
  • Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred.
  • Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.
  • active compounds according to the invention can also be selected very advantageously from the group of hydrophilic active compounds, in particular from the following group: I
  • Alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or salicylic acid their salts such as Na lactate, Ca lactate, TEA lactate, urea, allantoin, serine, sorbitol, glycerol, milk proteins, panthenol, chitosan.
  • the list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.
  • the amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsions according to the invention are advantageously used as a thickened, in particular cream-like preparation.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des émulsions nettoyantes cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, caractérisées en ce qu'elles contiennent, par rapport au poids total des préparations, - 1 à 30 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs tensioactifs détergents, sélectionnés dans le groupe des tensioactifs qui présentent une valeur HLB supérieure à 15, - 35 à 50 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs constituants lipidiques, - 0,001 à 30 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs principes actifs, - 0,2 à 5 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs polyacrylates, sélectionnés dans le groupe constitué par des homo- et/ou copolymères anioniques d'acide acrylique et/ou de dérivés d'acide acrylique alkylés ainsi que leurs esters et - 5 à 60 % en poids d'eau.
EP02782965A 2001-10-26 2002-10-21 Emulsions nettoyantes cosmetiques contenant des principes actifs Ceased EP1450756A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10153023A DE10153023A1 (de) 2001-10-26 2001-10-26 Wirkstoffhaltige kosmetische Reinigungsemulsionen
DE10153023 2001-10-26
PCT/EP2002/011750 WO2003037278A1 (fr) 2001-10-26 2002-10-21 Emulsions nettoyantes cosmetiques contenant des principes actifs

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WO2003037278A1 (fr) 2003-05-08
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JP2005507404A (ja) 2005-03-17

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