Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
  • A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of cosmetology. It relates to a cosmetic composition more particularly suitable for the care of human skin and hair.
• Men's skin has specificities that differentiate it from that of women. Indeed, in men, the epidemic cells are more numerous and more active and, in the dermis, the fibroblasts are more active and the collagen more abundant which results in a thicker epidermis, a denser dermis and intense cellular and biological activities.
• Men's skin is richer in collagen and its thicker dermis. The sebaceous secretion protects it from attack. For these reasons, human skin keeps its youthful appearance longer but ages abruptly, fewer wrinkles being more marked and deeper.
• a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin of the man more particularly adapted to the shaving must not only calm the “fire of the razor” but also soothe, hydrate, prevent and limit the risks of infection related to cuts.
• the cosmetic compositions suitable for the care of men's skin must provide freshness and have a draining action to reduce redness in the skin and the formation of bags under the eyes.
• the work of the Applicant has made it possible to develop a new cosmetic composition which specifically meets the needs of the skin of men described above.
• the cosmetic composition which is the subject of the invention is remarkable in that it comprises energizing, soothing and sanitizing plant active ingredients.
• compositions which are the subject of the invention comprise:
• the water-soluble extracts contained in the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the present invention are hydroglycolic extracts.
• the galangal (Alpinia officinarum) of the Zingiberaceae family is a shrub native to East Asia whose gnarled black rhizome resembles that of ginger. Galangal is also also called Chinese ginger. It is widely used as a condiment, particularly in Indonesia where it is essential for traditional cuisine. Like ginger, it is part of the Chinese pharmacopoeia for its digestive but above all energizing properties. When applied to the skin, it was very early known to impart energy and vitality.
• the rhizome of the galangal is rich in active ingredients with stimulating and invigorating properties such as essential oils, flavonoids, minerals, sugars, etc.
• the water-soluble extract of galangal used in the compositions of the invention is an extract containing flavonoids.
• This extract is advantageously prepared from the rhizomes of galangal.
• the galangal extract is obtained by extraction controlled by the water / propylene glycol mixture followed by a centrifugation / filtration step.
• Galangal extract is rich in essential oils such as borneol, cineole, caryophyllene and geraniol. It also contains phytosterols and flavonoids such as galangin and kaempferol.
• the flavonoids content is around 1.5 g / l (rutin equivalent).
• the flavonoids and mainly the galangin contained in the galangal extract have anti-fungal and anti-bacterial activity useful for combating skin conditions.
• the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention also contain a water-soluble extract of bison grass (Hierochloe odorata).
• the bison grass (Hierochloe odorata) of the Poaceae family is native to Europe and North America. This grass in cold and humid areas (above latitude 40 ° C) finishes growing at the end of summer and can reach up to 60 cm in height.
• This grass in cold and humid areas (above latitude 40 ° C) finishes growing at the end of summer and can reach up to 60 cm in height.
• the plant reproduces essentially by propagation of the rhizome, the seeds being few and often infertile. From one year to the next, the new shoots emerge from the wilted foliage of the previous year giving first of all short fruiting stems surrounded by a short foliage quickly giving way to a new sterile basal shoot of rapid development to give the usually harvested plant.
• Bison grass has a particularly pleasant odor, similar to that of vanilla, which develops after flowering. Therefore, due to its delicate odor, it is widely used today as a fragrance base in sweets, drinks and perfumes.
• bison grass is recommended, in the form of an infusion, to relieve coughs, sore throats, chapped skin and may also be suitable for eye rinsing. Its great richness in coumarins and umbelliferones, powerful stimulators of cellular respiration, makes bison grass extract particularly suitable for the specific needs of men's skin by giving it venotonic and anti-inflammatory properties.
• the water-soluble bison grass extract used in the compositions of the invention is an extract containing coumarins and umbelliferones. It is obtained by grinding the aerial part of the plant before maceration in ethanolic alcohol. The extract is filtered then purified, and finally undergoes evaporation before being incorporated into an excipient of the glycerin type.
• the cosmetic compositions object of the invention contain a water-soluble extract of purslane [Portulaca oleracea).
• Purslane is a plant native to India which was introduced to Europe by the English in the 16th century. This small succulent plant has rubbery stems that soak up water like the thick, fleshy leaves. Purslane is one of the oldest representatives of our popular flora which holds at the same time salad, condiment and the medicinal plant.
• purslane has been used since Antiquity as medication for the digestive and pulmonary tracts.
• topical application it is renowned for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. These are also the latter that justify its use in cosmetology and especially for human care where they help fight razor burn, calm irritations and soothe redness.
• the hydrosoluble extract of purslane used in the compositions of the invention is an extract containing omega 3 fatty acids. This extract is advantageously obtained from the whole plant. After washing the plants, a extraction is carried out followed by a filtration step. Two purification steps are then carried out before a concentration.
• compositions according to the invention comprise:
• compositions of the invention can contain other active plant extracts.
• the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain one or more plant extracts chosen from: a wintergreen extract, a grindelia extract, an aloe extract, a sunflower extract and an extract of Mourera fluviatilis.
• Wintergreen is an evergreen bush that grows in the woods and clearing of the eastern United States and Canada. It has analgesic, astringent, anti-inflammatory and stimulating properties. It contains about 0.15 to 0.25% salicylic acid. This beta hydroxyacid is known for its keratolytic action which helps to refine the stratum corneum and therefore reduce the appearance of thicker skin characteristic of men's skin.
• Hydroglycolic wintergreen extracts are obtained by percolating the raw material in a system of suitable solvents. Then, by filtration, concentration, atomization, the extracts of desired quality are obtained in a liquid or dry form. Due to its astringent and anti-inflammatory properties, wintergreen extracts can be used in the composition of any soothing cosmetic product. softener suitable for men's skin care, such as after sun milks and after shave lotions.
• grindelia is a robust plant native to California and the American Southeast. It resembles a large daisy and forms stocky tufts 50 to 90 cm high. Its activity resides in the resin that covers the entire plant.
• grindelia extract can be used for its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. This use is due in particular to the presence of diterpenes, phenolic compounds, gallic tannins, flavonoids and saponosides including ⁇ -escin which is of anti-edema and anti-inflammatory interest and which reduces capillary fragility.
• the cosmetic compositions of the invention can also contain an aloe extract as an anti-irritant, anti-dehydrating and repairing agent. Indeed, it is known that the peeled aloe leaves and devoid of thorns provide a gel, especially rich in sugars and containing traces of magnesium lactate whose texture qualities and properties have already found applications in the field cosmetic.
• the sunflower extract (Helianthus sp.) More particularly usable in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is the extract of sunflower stalks (Helianthus annus) rich in auxin described in French patent application No. 2789901. This extract has a tonic and firming effect. It is obtained by maceration of the sunflower stalks in a water / glycerin mixture, dried and resuspended in a butylene glycol / water mixture (volume / volume).
• the extract of Mourera fluviatilis, tropical plant adapted to the running waters of the Amazon Basin, present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention acts specifically on the epidermal horny layers. It exerts at the same time a hygroscopicity regulating effect, a substantive hydroregulatory effect, a dehydration slowing effect and a hydration prolonging effect. It intervenes to slow dehydration by excess of insensible perspiration and to balance the hydration of the skin according to the relative humidity of the ambient air.
• Mourera fluviatilis is obtained after a purification / filtration step.
• compositions according to the invention can also comprise one or more formulation agents of known and conventional use in cosmetic compositions such as, by way of example and without limitation, softeners, dyes, film-forming active agents, surfactants, fragrances, emulsifiers, oils, glycols, dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose. Thanks to this knowledge in the field of cosmetics, a person skilled in the art will know which formulation agents to add to the compositions of the invention in order to obtain a product such as, for example, a body and hair shampoo, a face cleanser. , a shaving preparation treatment, a moisturizing gel or balm, a de-energizing cream for the face, neck and shoulders, an eye cream, a deodorant, a self-tanning product.
• formulation agents of known and conventional use in cosmetic compositions such as, by way of example and without limitation, softeners, dyes, film-forming active agents, surfactants, fragrances, emulsifiers, oils, glycols, dihydroxyacetone and
• the cosmetic composition when used in the form of a self-tanning product, the composition may also contain dihydroxyacetone and / or erythrulose.
• Dihydroxyacetone known, since the 60s, as a self-tanning agent.
• Erythrulose is a natural sugar with chemical name 1, 3, 4 trihydroxy-2 butanone, the use of which in self-tanning cosmetic compositions is described in French patent application N °. 2772268.
• compositions according to the invention can be in any form known to a person skilled in the art in the field of cosmetology without any other galenical restriction than the water-soluble nature of galangal, bison grass and purslane extracts.
• the compositions according to the invention are in the form of gels, creams, balms, milk, foaming product, etc., mainly to meet the needs of an application to hair and to the skin of the skin. man's face and body.
• the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of human skin.
• the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the preparation of the skin for shaving.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the preparation of a self-tanning product.
• the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of human hair.
• Normal human keratinocytes are cultured at 37 ° C. for 48 hours in a defined medium in the presence of the following products:
• Purslane extract inhibits the release of prostaglandins produced "naturally” by cells in culture from 53.8 to 61.6%. It should be noted that the reference molecule used (aspirin) inhibits the release of these prostaglandins by 60.3%.
• Bison grass extract 1 00 Grindelia extract 1, 00

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Biotechnology (AREA)
• Botany (AREA)
• Microbiology (AREA)
• Mycology (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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• 2001
  • 2001-09-24 FR FR0112270A patent/FR2829928B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 2002
  • 2002-09-24 CA CA002461462A patent/CA2461462A1/fr not_active Abandoned
  • 2002-09-24 US US10/806,536 patent/US20040191208A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2002-09-24 JP JP2003530243A patent/JP3787566B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2002-09-24 EP EP02783200A patent/EP1429720A2/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 2002-09-24 WO PCT/FR2002/003256 patent/WO2003026605A2/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2002-09-24 AU AU2002347271A patent/AU2002347271B2/en not_active Ceased

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