EP1406585A2 - Utilisation d'extraits de houblon et/ou de houblon et de malt dans des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques pour prevenir et traiter des symptomes cutanes degeneratifs - Google Patents

Utilisation d'extraits de houblon et/ou de houblon et de malt dans des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques pour prevenir et traiter des symptomes cutanes degeneratifs

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Publication number
EP1406585A2
EP1406585A2 EP02758306A EP02758306A EP1406585A2 EP 1406585 A2 EP1406585 A2 EP 1406585A2 EP 02758306 A EP02758306 A EP 02758306A EP 02758306 A EP02758306 A EP 02758306A EP 1406585 A2 EP1406585 A2 EP 1406585A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
cosmetic
hop
acid
preparations
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02758306A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stefan Gallinat
Kirsten Venzke
Thomas Blatt
Helga Biergiesser
Thomas Döring
Franz STÄB
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1406585A2 publication Critical patent/EP1406585A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/70—Biological properties of the composition as a whole

Definitions

  • hop or hop malt extracts in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis against and treatment of degenerative skin symptoms.
  • the present invention relates to the use of hop extracts or hop maize extracts in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of environmentally negative skin changes such. B. by UV and or ozone and or smog and or smoking induced skin damage and inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood to mean that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • the chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors.
  • the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. to follow structural damage and malfunctions that may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants
  • the epidermis and dermis it is caused especially by exogenous factors.
  • the present invention particularly relates to products for the care of environmental pollutants such as. B. UV light, ozone, cigarette smoke stressed skin, and to treat the consequential damage of light aging, especially the phenomena listed under a) to g).
  • Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. B. retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives.
  • B. retinoids vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives
  • vitamin A and / or its derivatives are known per se. They contain e.g. B. retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives.
  • vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives vitamin A and / or its derivatives
  • Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for protecting cosmetic preparations themselves or for protecting the components of cosmetic preparations against harmful oxidation processes.
  • the damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known.
  • the rays have different effects on the skin organ:
  • the so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and therefore has no physiological significance.
  • rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range cause an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • the narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.
  • Numerous compounds are known for protection against UV-B radiation, which are, for example, derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and s-triazine.
  • UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin.
  • the damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be increased by UV-A radiation.
  • UV-A radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays. While UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, irrespective of the time of year, day or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.
  • UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.
  • UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.
  • Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them.
  • antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can also be used in cosmetic or dermatological formulations in order to remedy or prevent oxidation reactions.
  • Another object of the invention was to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably polymorphic light dermatosis.
  • the object of the present invention was to remedy these shortcomings.
  • hop or hop malt extracts in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of environmentally negative skin changes and / or skin damage induced by UV and / or ozone and / or smog and / or smoking as well as inflammatory and degenerative Skin conditions remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.0005 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight of hop or hop malt Extracts, each based on the total composition of the preparations.
  • Hop extract in the sense of the present invention is obtained from botanically known hop species (Humulus Lupulus, family of the Canabaceae) by extraction.
  • hop cone and hop gland extracts typically contains some or all of the following ingredients: • Hop bitter substances: humulones, lupulones
  • the bitter substances are monoacylphloroglucides with dimethylallyl side chains. Depending on the number of dimethylallyl side chains, a distinction is made between humulones ( ⁇ -acids) with two and lupulones ( ⁇ -acids) with three dimethylallyl side chains.
  • Lipophilic hop extracts contain 2-methyl-3-buten-2-ol, while hop extracts prepared with polar solvents are free of 2-methyl-3-buten-2-ol.
  • polyphenols make up 4 to 14% by weight of the dry matter.
  • Phenol carboxylic acids such as ferulic acid, gallic acid, caffeic acid, para-cumaric acid, para-hydroxabenzoic acid, protocatechic acid, vanillic acid free and glycosidically bound, chlorogenic acid, neochlorogenic acid.
  • Flavanones / chalcones (xanthohumol, isoxanthohumol, desmethylxanthohumol, 3-isoprenyl-2-4-dihydroxy-4,6-dimethoxychalkon and 2,6-dimethoxy-4,4-dihydroxychalkon)
  • Flavonols astragalin, camphor oil and quercetin-3-glycoside.
  • Catechins catechin, epicatechin, proanthocyanidins (leucocyanidine, leucodelphinidine) condensed tannins
  • Essential oils terpene hydrocarbons, myrcene, humulene, ß-caryophyllene, 2-undecanone phytosterols phytoestrogens glucides tannins
  • the composition of the hop extracts according to the invention ie for example the total amount of resin, the soft resin / hard resin content, the content of ⁇ - (3 to 12% by weight) or ⁇ - (3 to 5% by weight) acids and the ratio the humulon and lupulon homologue depends on the hop variety, the growing area, the time of harvest, the drying and the storage of the hop.
  • the hop extracts for the purposes of the present invention can be water-soluble or oil-soluble.
  • hop-soluble and oil-soluble hop extracts from hop cones and hop glands.
  • the fresh fruit (female flowers) or the dried plant is extracted, for example by one of the following known methods:
  • An advantageous extractant for the production of water-soluble extracts is, for example, but not exclusively, 1,2-propylene glycol:
  • oil-soluble extracts is preferably carried out, for example, but not exclusively, using sunflower oil, soybean oil, diisobutyl adipate.
  • Hop extracts according to the invention are available in numerous ways known per se. In principle, new ways of producing the extracts are also conceivable. It is essential that the hop extracts show the properties according to the invention.
  • proteolytic enzymes in the skin such as. B. metalloproteinases
  • the active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms.
  • the preparations within the meaning of the present invention can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases (into which the cardiolipin is preferably incorporated), one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, multiple (W / O / W, O ⁇ / V / O) emulsions are present.
  • Such formulations may preferably also be a microemulsion, a solid emulsions (ie an emulsion which is stabilized by solids, e.g. Pickering emulsion), a sprayable emulsion, a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion.
  • the active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into a solution, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.
  • the emulsions according to the invention are preferably O / W emulsions.
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or other active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g
  • thioglucose e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid
  • Bile extracts bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A - palmitate
  • Selenium and its derivatives e.g. selenium methionine
  • stilbene and its derivatives e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • the derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides , Peptides and lipids
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
  • further active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group: alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, isoflavone , Creatine, taurine.
  • active substance according to the invention in encapsulated form, for. B. in collagen matrices and other common encapsulation materials, e.g. B. as cellulose encapsulation, encapsulated in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomal.
  • wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08 282 have proven to be favorable.
  • Particularly advantageous encapsulation forms in the sense of the present invention are also cyclodextrin complexes of cardiolipin.
  • the active ingredient according to the invention for. B. to encapsulate as so-called solid lipid nanoparts with the aid of melted waxes, which can be selected, inter alia, but not exclusively, from the group of the ester waxes, triglyceride waxes or hydrocarbon waxes.
  • the prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, namely in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.
  • Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention for. B. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z.
  • the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.
  • aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.
  • sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.
  • Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to add the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • the preparations preferably contain, in addition to one or more active ingredients used according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • such pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are coated with a thin film using methods known per se be provided with a hydrophobic layer.
  • z. B titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO 2 pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.
  • Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of voilmethylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units.
  • Zinc oxide pigments which are coated in this way are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the inorganic pigments are also advantageous to coat with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also known as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water. An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000.
  • An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes
  • the total amount of the filter substances for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts , in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimizazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann & Reimer.
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding speaking sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazin), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoy! Methane], benzotriazole derivatives [e.g.
  • UV filter substances which the structural motif
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula is reproduced, whereby
  • R is a branched or unbranched d-Ci ⁇ alkyl, -C ⁇ rest 2 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more C- ⁇ -C 4, a C 5 - alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group
  • RT is a branched or unbranched d-cis-alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C-rd ⁇ alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a * number from 1 to 10
  • R 2 is a branched or unbranched C 8 -C alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched d -d ⁇ -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CrC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C r C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C r C alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctyibutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4.4 l , 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
  • European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is given by the generic formula
  • R ⁇ , R 2 and i represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • ⁇ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic active ingredients e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion
  • solvents can be used as solvents: • water or aqueous solutions; • oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.
  • Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl iso-nonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl palate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic see and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl advantageous Octyldo- decanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-i5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products, as well as low C-number alcohols, e.g.
  • alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar
  • isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners which or which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • thickeners which or which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbo
  • Gels used according to the invention usually contain low C-number alcohols, e.g. Example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily alcoholic gels, preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • a thickener which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily alcoholic gels, preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • Fixed pens contain e.g. B. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.
  • liquid oils for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate
  • semi-solid components for example petroleum jelly, lanolin
  • solid components e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite
  • high-melting waxes e.g. camauba wax, candelilla wax
  • Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, or organic thickeners, for.
  • the thickener is in the gel e.g. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%.

Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'extraits de houblon et/ou de houblon et de malt dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques destinées à traiter et prévenir les symptômes d'altérations cutanées négatives liées à l'environnement et/ou de lésions cutanées induites par les UV et/ou l'ozone et/ou le smog et/ou la fumée ainsi que des symptômes d'états cutanés inflammatoires ou dégénératifs.
EP02758306A 2001-07-06 2002-07-03 Utilisation d'extraits de houblon et/ou de houblon et de malt dans des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques pour prevenir et traiter des symptomes cutanes degeneratifs Withdrawn EP1406585A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10132953A DE10132953A1 (de) 2001-07-06 2001-07-06 Verwendung von Hopfen-bzw. Hopfen-Malz-Extrakten in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Prophylaxe gegen und Behandlung von degenerativen Hauterscheinungen
DE10132953 2001-07-06
PCT/EP2002/007388 WO2003003997A2 (fr) 2001-07-06 2002-07-03 Utilisation d'extraits de houblon et/ou de houblon et de malt dans des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques pour prevenir et traiter des symptomes cutanes degeneratifs

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EP1406585A2 true EP1406585A2 (fr) 2004-04-14

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US (1) US20050031572A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1406585A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE10132953A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2003003997A2 (fr)

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DE10132953A1 (de) 2003-01-16
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WO2003003997A2 (fr) 2003-01-16

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