Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/06—Antipsoriatics
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/12—Keratolytics, e.g. wart or anti-corn preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P35/00—Antineoplastic agents
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

• the invention relates to the use, in a composition or for the manufacture of a composition, of at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid, the derivative or the composition being intended to promote the desquamation of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and / or fight against intrinsic aging of the skin.
• the invention also relates to a method of non-therapeutic treatment of the skin intended to promote flaking and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and / or fight against intrinsic aging of the skin, consisting in applying to the skin a composition comprising at least a derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid.
• Intrinsic or chronobiological aging corresponds to “normal” or physiological aging linked to age.
• Extrinsic aging corresponds to aging caused generally by the environment and more particularly to photoaging due to exposure to the sun, to light or to any other radiation (EP-A2-0 815 840, Kligman, AM and al., Journal of Cutaneous Aging and Cosmetic Dermatology, Vol. 1, No. 1, pp. 5-12 (1988)).
• the present invention is only concerned with intrinsic or physiological skin aging.
• Skin aging in general is manifested by the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, by the yellowing of the skin which develops a parchment-like appearance accompanied by the appearance of pigment spots, by the disorganization of the elastin and collagen fibers causing loss of elasticity, flexibility and firmness or by the appearance of telangiectasias.
• the changes in the skin due to intrinsic aging are the result of genetically programmed senescence involving endogenous factors. This intrinsic aging results in particular in a slowing down of the renewal of the cells of the epidermis and the appearance of fine wrinkles or fine lines.
• Exfoliation is a natural phenomenon linked to the fact that the epidermis, which constitutes the upper layer of the skin, is constantly regenerating.
• the human epidermis is made up of several layers of cells in which there are mainly four types of cells: keratinocytes, the vast majority, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and erkel cells. The distribution of these cells in several superimposed layers explains the stratified nature of the epidermis.
• the epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes which constitutes the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called thorny layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germ cells, a so-called granular layer consisting of flattened cells containing inclusions distinct cytoplasmic, keratohyaline grains, and finally an upper layer called the stratum corneum (or stratum corneum), consisting of keratinocytes in the terminal stage of their differentiation called comeocytes.
• Corneocytes are mummified, anucleated cells which are derived from keratinocytes and are eliminated by peeling.
• Coméocytes are mainly composed of a fibrous matrix containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a very resistant structure 15 nm thick, called the horny or comified envelope. The stacking of these coméocytes constitutes the stratum corneum which is responsible for the barrier function of the epidermis. During the normal desquamation process, the most superficial comeocytes detach from the surface of the epidermis. Intercellular structures derived from desmosomes, called comosomes or comeodesmosomes, have been described in the stratum corneum. Recent studies have shown their major importance in intercorneocyte cohesion as well as in the scaling process.
• Comeodesmosine is a protein of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, involved in intercorneocyte cohesion and constitutive of coméodesmosomes.
• stratum corneum there is a close correlation between cell dissociation and the proteolysis of certain corneodesmosomal components such as desmoglein I and comeodesmosine.
• US Pat. No. 4,603,146 describes the use of retinoic acid and its derivatives in cosmetic compositions, with a view to combating skin aging.
• numerous patents and publications see for example application EP-A-413,528) as well as numerous commercial cosmetic compositions teach the use of ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid or else citric acid to treat skin aging.
• ⁇ -hydroxy acids and more particularly salicylic acid and its derivatives are known for their desquamating properties (see documents WO-A-93/10756 and US 4,767,750).
• Certain cosmetic active agents are capable of stimulating the degradation of the proteins of the corneodesmosome and therefore the desquamation, no doubt, as we have seen previously, by promoting the activity of proteases involved in this process.
• EP-A2-0 852 949 Shiseido
• derivatives of alpha amino acids of glycine type promotes the degradation of desmogleine (protein of the corneodesmosome).
• 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid can therefore constitute excellent active agents for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or stimulating epidermal renewal and therefore fighting against intrinsic aging of the skin.
• the purpose of the present invention is therefore to have new compositions comprising at least one derivative of L-2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid (also called "procysteine"), to promote the peeling of the skin and / or stimulate the epidermal renewal and therefore fight against intrinsic aging of the skin.
• procysteine Admittedly, the use of procysteine has already been the subject of numerous studies and patents, in particular with the aim of protecting the organism against various stresses. Thus, Cornell University patents cover the use of procysteine for therapeutic purposes and as a glutathione inducer (US 4,335,210; US 4,434,158; US 4,438,124 and US 4,647,751).
• Patents from the company Clintec (EP 501,641, EP 501,637, EP 535,390 and US 5,214,062) also describe the use of procysteine for the therapeutic treatment of disorders among which mention may be made of hepatic, cardiac and viral disorders.
• EP-A-656 201 (patent from the company Free Radical Sciences) of other esters of L-2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid used as a cysteine precursor and in association with stimulators glutathione to prevent hair loss and stimulate new hair growth.
• L-2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid and its derivatives according to the invention are capable of stimulating the degradation of comesodesmosine and can therefore constitute excellent active ingredients to promote flaking of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and therefore fight against intrinsic skin aging.
• Examples include:
• L-2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid and its derivatives according to the invention are capable of stimulating the degradation of coméodesmosine and can therefore constitute excellent active agents for promoting the peeling of the skin and / or stimulating the epidermal renewal and therefore treat skin pathologies which are characterized by the production of a thickened stratum corneum and by abnormal scaling.
• the first object of the invention is therefore the use of at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid corresponding to the following formula (I): in which,
• X represents a radical -OH or a radical -NHR 2
• R ⁇ R 2 which are identical or different, represent: a hydrogen atom
• a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical optionally substituted by at least one -OR radical and / or a -COOR radical and / or a -NHR radical and / or a -SR radical and / or a -R radical for which R represents hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, - a COR 3 radical in which R 3 represents a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl, optionally substituted by at least one radical -OR and / or a radical -COOR and / or a radical -NHR and / or a radical -SR and / or a radical -R for which R represents a hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl,
• a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to promote desquamation of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and therefore advantageously fight against intrinsic aging of the skin.
• the invention also relates to the optical and / or geometric isomers of the derivatives of formula (I), alone or as a mixture in all proportions, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these derivatives.
• linear or branched C1-C4 and C1-C8 alkyl is meant according to the invention the acyclic radicals originating from the removal of a hydrogen atom in the linear or branched hydrocarbon molecule having from 1 to 4, respectively to 8 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl radicals as well as their isomers of corresponding position .
• physiologically acceptable medium a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, nails, scalp and hair.
• 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid derivatives of formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture and in any proportion.
• 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) is understood to mean the derivatives described above, of natural or synthetic origin, totally or partially purified or any preparation containing them.
• natural origin is meant a derivative extracted from natural material in which it is present.
• synthetic origin is meant a derivative prepared by chemical synthesis or by biotechnology.
• the expression “totally or partially purified” means here that, during its synthesis or in relation to its natural state (plant or cells which are fresh or dried), the 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid derivative of formula (l), in the composition of the invention, has been concentrated and / or has been freed, respectively of at least a part of the secondary reaction products resulting from its synthesis or of at least a part of the other constituents of the plant.
• a second subject of the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above, the so-called cosmetic composition being intended to promote the peeling of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and therefore advantageously fight against intrinsic aging of the skin.
• Another subject of the invention relates to the use of at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above, for the manufacture of a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising a medium physiologically acceptable, the said composition being intended to promote flaking of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and therefore advantageously fight against intrinsic aging of the skin.
• Another subject of the invention relates to the use of at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above as defined above, for the manufacture of a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, the said composition being intended for treating skin pathologies which are characterized by the production of a thickened stratum corneum and by abnormal scaling, particularly xerosis or dryness of the skin, ichthyoses, psoriasis, tumor lesions benign or malignant, reactive hyperkeratosis.
• the derivatives of formula (I) are used according to the invention for which X represents an —OH radical or an —NHR 2 radical, and RR 2 , which are identical or different, represent: - a hydrogen atom,
• the amount of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid derivative of formula (I) which can be used according to the invention obviously depends on the desired effect and must be in an amount which is effective in promoting scaling of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and therefore fight against intrinsic skin aging.
• the amount of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid derivative of formula (I) which can be used according to the invention can range, for example, from 0.01% to 50% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
• procysteine Given its good solubility in water (greater than 4%) and in ethanol (greater than 10%), procysteine provides the additional advantage of being easily formulated at 1% in a large number of cosmetic formulations W / O, O / W emulsions, liposomes, oleosomes, provided the pH is maintained between 5 and 8.
• composition according to the invention can be intended for a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application, particularly dermatological.
• composition according to the invention can be ingested, injected or applied to the skin (on any cutaneous zone of the body), the hair, the nails or the mucous membranes (buccal, jugale, gingival, genital, conjunctiva).
• the composition of the invention may be presented in all dosage forms normally used, particularly in cosmetology.
• a preferred composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition intended for topical application.
• the composition which can be used according to the invention may have the form in particular of an aqueous or oily solution or of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous cream or gel type, or of microcapsules or microparticles, or dispersions Ionic and / or non-ionic vesicles.
• These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
• the composition which can be used according to the invention can also be a composition for hair care, and in particular a shampoo, a styling lotion, a treating lotion, a styling cream or gel, a composition of dyes (in particular oxidation dyes) optionally in the form of coloring shampoos, restructuring hair lotions, a perm composition (in particular a composition for the first time of a perm), a fall prevention lotion or gel, an antiparasitic shampoo, etc.
• a composition for hair care and in particular a shampoo, a styling lotion, a treating lotion, a styling cream or gel, a composition of dyes (in particular oxidation dyes) optionally in the form of coloring shampoos, restructuring hair lotions, a perm composition (in particular a composition for the first time of a perm), a fall prevention lotion or gel, an antiparasitic shampoo, etc.
• compositions which can be used according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields considered.
• compositions constitute in particular cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body (for example day creams, night creams. , make-up removing creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams), fluid foundations, make-up removal milks, body protection or care milks, after-sun milks, lotions, gels or foams for the skin care, such as cleansing lotions, lotions sun blockers, artificial tanning lotions, bath compositions, deodorant compositions comprising a bactericidal agent, aftershave gels or lotions, depilatory creams, compositions against insect bites, pain relieving compositions , compositions for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus.
• compositions which can be used according to the invention can also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning bars.
• compositions which can be used according to the invention can also be packaged in the form of an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure.
• the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the oils, waxes, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic field.
• the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the emulsion may, in addition, contain lipid vesicles.
• the fatty phase can represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, absorbers odor and coloring matter.
• adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, absorbers odor and coloring matter.
• the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01% to 10% o of the total weight of the composition.
• These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.
• emulsifiers used in the invention there may be mentioned for example glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60 and the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose ® 63 by the company Gattefosse.
• solvents which can be used in the invention mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, propylene glycol.
• hydrophilic gelling agents which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose, polyethylene.
• carboxyvinyl polymers carboxyvinyl polymers
• acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
• polyacrylamides polysaccharides
• polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose
• natural gums and clays and, as lipophilic gelling agents
• modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica,
• compositions which can be used according to the invention may contain other hydrophilic active agents such as proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts and hydroxy acids.
• hydrophilic active agents such as proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts and hydroxy acids.
• lipophilic active agents retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, essential oils, salicylic acid and its derivatives can be used.
• compositions which can be used according to the invention can combine at least • a derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) with other active agents.
• active agents there may be mentioned by way of example:
• agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation such as retinoic acid and its isomers, retinol and its esters, vitamin D and its derivatives, estrogens such as estradiol, kojic acid or hydroquinone;
• - antibacterials such as clindamycin phosphate, perythromycin or antibiotics of the tetracycline class
• - antifungals in particular compounds belonging to the class of imidazoles such as econazole, ketoconazole or miconazole or their salts, polyene compounds, such as amphotericin B, compounds of the allylamine family, such as terbinafine, or octopirox; - antiviral agents such as acyclovir;
• - steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as hydrocortisone, betamethasone valerate or clobetasol propionate, or non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as, for example, ibuprofen and its salts, diclofenac and its salts, acid acetylsalicylic, acetaminophen or glycyrrhizic acid;
• - anesthetic agents such as lidocaine hydrochloride and its derivatives
• - antipruritic agents such as thenaldine, trimeprazine or cyproheptadine;
• agents - acting on the radiance of the complexion by promoting tumors and flaking • Keratolytic agents
• ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids their salts, amides or esters and more particularly hydroxy acids
• glycolic acid acid lactic, salicylic acid, citric acid and generally fruit acids
• n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid
• - anti-free radical agents such as ⁇ -tocopherol or its esters, superoxide dismutases, certain metal chelators or ascorbic acid and its esters;
• anti-dandruff agents such as octopirox or zinc pyrithione
• - anti-acne drugs such as retinoic acid or benzoyl peroxide
• phospholipids such as lecithin, linoleic and linolenic acids, salicylic acid and its derivatives described in the French patent.
• FR 2 581 542 such as derivatives of salicylic acid carrying an alkanoyl radical having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms in position 5 of the benzene ring, hydroxycarboxylic or ketocarboxylic acids and their esters, lactones and their corresponding salts, anthralin, carotenoids, eicosatetraenoic and eicosatrienoic acids or their esters and amides.
• the composition used according to the invention also comprises at least one agent chosen from antibacterial agents, antiparasitics, antifungals, antivirals, anti-inflammatories, antipruritics, anesthetics, keratolytics, anti-free radicals, anti-seborrheics, anti-dandruff, anti-acne and / or agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation, extracts of plant, marine or bacterial origin or their mixtures.
• at least one agent chosen from antibacterial agents, antiparasitics, antifungals, antivirals, anti-inflammatories, antipruritics, anesthetics, keratolytics, anti-free radicals, anti-seborrheics, anti-dandruff, anti-acne and / or agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation, extracts of plant, marine or bacterial origin or their mixtures.
• composition used according to the invention comprising at least one derivative of formula (I) as defined above is in liposomal form, as notably described in patent application WO 94/22468 filed on October 13, 1994 by Anti Cancer Inc.
• the subject of the invention is a composition comprising at least the combination of at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid corresponding to formula (I) and of at least one other agent prodesquamating.
• prodesquamating agents are prodesquamant agents known for their moisturizing properties and / or acting on the radiance of the complexion by promoting turnover and flaking (keratolytic agents).
• prodesquamating agents recognized for their moisturizing properties are chosen from glycerol and urea and their derivatives, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, ammonium salts of lactic acid.
• the other prodesquamating agents which act on the radiance of the complexion by promoting turnover and flaking are chosen from hydroxy acids, in particular ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid and in general fruit acids, and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.
• the subject of the invention is a method of non-therapeutic treatment of the skin intended to promote flaking of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is applied to the skin comprising at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above.
• the subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic treatment method for combating intrinsic skin aging, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is applied to the skin comprising at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid from formula (I) as defined above.
• the subject of the invention is also a method for promoting flaking of the skin and / or stimulating epidermal renewal and therefore combating cutaneous aging in a person having an abnormally low scaling of the skin and / or an abnormally low epidermal renewal, comprising the topical application to the skin of an effective amount of at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above.
• the subject of the invention is also a method of promoting flaking of the skin and / or stimulating epidermal renewal in a person having a production of a thickened stratum corneum and an abnormal flaking comprising topical application to the skin of an effective amount of '' at least one derivative of 2-oxothiazolidine 4-carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above.
• Example 1 Method for evaluating scaling by measuring the degradation of corneodesmosines.
• Coméodesmosine is one of the major markers of scaling in the corneodesmosome. It is studied on immunoblot after separation by electrophoresis and transfer to the membrane. After specific labeling with the monoclonal antibody G36-19, it is revealed by chemiluminescence.
• the murine monoclonal antibody G36-19 is specific to comesodesmosine, it is part of a series of antibodies directed against differentiation antigens epidermal, products after immunization of a mouse with a homogenate of the human plantar horny layer, then characterized (Serre G. et al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 1991; 97 (6): 1061-72).
• Varnished strippings are carried out on the lower legs of volunteers (modification of the procedure of Lundstrôm A. and Egelrud T. Acta Derm. Venereol. (Stockh) 71, 471-474, 1991).
• the nylon-varnish sheets associated with the coméocytes are immersed in acetone 1 ml / cm 2 in order to detach the coméocytes.
• the mixture is filtered and then rinsed three times with the same volume of acetone in order to remove all traces of varnish. Finally the mixture is dried under vacuum: acetone powders of stràtum corneum are then obtained. The acetone powders are aliquoted by 1 mg.
• the mixtures are centrifuged for 10 min at 10,000 g.
• the supernatant is removed and replaced with 100 ⁇ l of Laemmli buffer 0.0625 M Tris / HCl pH 6.8, 2% SDS, 200 mM DTT, 10% glyerol which allows the extraction of proteins.
• the mixture is brought to the boil for 10 min at 100 ° C. and then ground in a Potter.
• the mixture is centrifuged for 10 min at 10000 g then the supernatant is collected. It contains proteins from the corneodesmosome.
• the total proteins are dosed according to the Bradford method (Biorad kit). This allows an adjustment to 0.6 mg / ml of the samples and an actual comparison of the treatments.
• the samples and a 1/3 rainbow low molecular weight standard are separated by gel electrophoresis at 12%> acrylamide for 1 h at 100V, then 1 h at 200V.
• the proteins are transferred to the Immobilon-P membrane (Millipore) for 3 h at 60V.
• the membrane is then incubated 2 times 15 min in TBS-TL buffer: 25mM Tris, 0.15M NaCl pH 7.2, 0.05% Tween 20, 0.5% Skimmed milk powder in order to block non-specific sites .
• Incubation with the antibody G36-19 at 1/12500 is carried out overnight at 4 ° C.
• the membrane After two rinses of 5 min in TBS-TL the membrane is incubated with a goat anti-mouse IG antibody (H + L) peroxidase conjugate (Biorad) at 1/4000 1 h30 at room temperature. After several rinses of 5 min in TBS-TL then TBS (without milk or Tween), the membrane is incubated for 1 min in 10 ml of ECL reagent (Amersham Pharmacia Biotech). The chemiinescence of the coméodesmosine bands is measured with the FluorS Muitimager (Biorad). The bands of 33 and 46 kD are quantified with the Quantity-one software (Biorad).
• the Control corresponds to a control carried out with the solubilization buffer without active agent under the same conditions of the test.
• This control takes into account the natural degradation of the corneodesmosines which takes place during the incubation.
• procysteine promotes the degradation of corneodesmosines.
• Example 2 Compositions.

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