EP1221932A1 - Compositions pour colorants capillaires et procedes - Google Patents

Compositions pour colorants capillaires et procedes

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Publication number
EP1221932A1
EP1221932A1 EP00973666A EP00973666A EP1221932A1 EP 1221932 A1 EP1221932 A1 EP 1221932A1 EP 00973666 A EP00973666 A EP 00973666A EP 00973666 A EP00973666 A EP 00973666A EP 1221932 A1 EP1221932 A1 EP 1221932A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
coloring
oxidative
acid
compositions
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP00973666A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Dominic Pratt
Jennifer Mary Forward
Luis Carlos Dias
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Procter and Gamble Co filed Critical Procter and Gamble Co
Publication of EP1221932A1 publication Critical patent/EP1221932A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • This invention relates to hair coloring compositions and processes for coloring hair, and more especially to hair coloring compositions which provide both bleaching and coloring to the hair from a single composition.
  • Oxidative hair coloring agents and peroxygen oxidising agents can be used to deliver a variety of hair colors to the hair. However substantial improvement is needed to provide increased flexibility in the variety of hair shades which can be obtained.
  • oxidative hair dye compositions have been used to color/darken the hair and bleach compositions have been used to bleach/lighten the hair.
  • hair coloring compositions containing oxidative hair coloring agents are formulated at high pH (from about pH 9 to about pH 12) and commonly contain, in addition to the oxidative hair coloring agents and an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent, peroxide activating agents and a variety of additional cosmetic, coloring agent and peroxygen oxidising agent stabilising agents.
  • enhanced oxidative hair coloring agent oxidation can be achieved via the use of a hair swelling agent (HSA).
  • HSA's enhance the oxidising and coloring process by swelling the hair fibres to aid both the diffusion of the peroxygen oxidising agent and the oxidative hair coloring agents into the hair and enabling faster, more thorough dye oxidisation and hair coloring.
  • a common HSA is an aqueous (alkaline) solution containing a source of ammonia, such as ammonium hydroxide.
  • ammonia can cause skin irritation and in addition has an undesirable odour and can cause lacrimatory effects.
  • a hair bleaching and coloring composition having desirable odor characteristics comprising oxidative hair coloring agents which delivers improved hair coloring benefits and variety in hair shades without the need for an HSA.
  • EP-A-435,012 discloses a number of compounds which produce HCO 3 - ions, namely Na 2 CO 3 , NaHCO 3 , K 2 CO 3 , KHCO 3 , (NH 4 ) 2 CO 3 , NH 4 HCO 3 , CaCO 3 and Ca(HCO 3 -) 2 .
  • a combination of oxidising agents with one or more oxidative or non-oxidative hair coloring agents and ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate at a pH of from about 7 to about 9, in hair coloring compositions can deliver excellent initial hair bleaching and coloring in combination with improved flexibility and variety of shades, reduced odor, reduced skin irritation and hair damage and effective grey hair coverage without the need for substantial amounts of buffering agents, pH modifiers or hair swelling agents.
  • the subject of the present invention is a hair bleaching and coloring composition suitable for the treatment of human or animal hair.
  • a hair bleaching and coloring composition comprising:
  • pH of the composition is from about 7 to about 9.
  • a hair bleaching and coloring composition is applied directly to the hair and wherein the hair bleaching and coloring composition comprises: (a) an oxidising agent;
  • pH of the composition is from about 7 to about 9.
  • kits comprising a first component and a second component, the first component comprising an oxidising agent, and the second component comprising an oxidative and/or non- oxidative hair coloring agent in combination with ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate.
  • the term 'hair' to be treated may be 'living' i.e. on a living body or may be 'non-living' i.e. in a wig, hairpiece or other aggregation of non-living fibres, such as though used in textiles and fabrics.
  • Mammalian, preferably human hair is preferred.
  • wool, fur and other melanin containing fibres are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the present invention.
  • the term 'hair bleaching and coloring composition' is used in the broad sense in that it is intended to encompass compositions containing the combinations herein of an oxidising agent, an oxidative and/or non-oxidative coloring agent and ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate, wherein the composition has a pH of from about 7 to about 9. Moreover, it is also intended to include complex compositions which contain other components which may or may not be active ingredients.
  • the term 'hair bleaching and coloring composition' is intended to apply to compositions which contain, in addition to a mixture of active oxidising agents, coloring agents and ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate, such things as, by way of example, oxidising aids, sequestrants, stabilisers, thickeners, buffers, carriers, surfactants, solvents, antioxidants, polymers, and conditioners.
  • active oxidising agents such things as, by way of example, oxidising aids, sequestrants, stabilisers, thickeners, buffers, carriers, surfactants, solvents, antioxidants, polymers, and conditioners.
  • compositions of the invention comprise as an essential feature at least one oxidising agent, which may be an inorganic or organic oxidising agent.
  • the oxidising agent is preferably present at a level of from about 0.01%> to about 10%>, preferably from about 0.01% to about 6%, more preferably from about 1% to about 4% by weight of composition.
  • a preferred oxidising agent for use herein is an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent.
  • the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent should be safe and effective for use in the compositions herein.
  • the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be soluble in the compositions according to the present invention when in liquid form or in the form intended to be used.
  • inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be water-soluble.
  • Water soluble oxidising agents as defined herein means agents which have a solubility to the extent of about lOg in 1000ml of deionised water at 25°C ("Chemistry" C. E. Mortimer. 5th Edn. p277).
  • the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents useful herein are generally inorganic peroxygen materials capable of yielding peroxide in an aqueous solution.
  • Inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents are well known in the art and include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium periodate, sodium perbromate and sodium peroxide, and inorganic perhydrate salt oxidising compounds, such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulphates and the like. These inorganic perhydrate salts may be inco ⁇ orated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates etc. Mixtures of two or more of such inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents can be used if desired. While alkali metal bromates and iodates are suitable for use herein the bromates are preferred. Highly preferred for use in the compositions according to the present invention is hydrogen peroxide.
  • compositions of the present invention it is possible to deliver effective hair bleaching and colouring without needing to use ammonia, hence there being no ammonia related odor or skin irritation negatives associated with these compositions.
  • the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent is present at a level of from about 0.01% to less than about 6%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1% to about 4%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% by weight of composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention may instead or in addition to the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent(s), comprise one or more preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agents.
  • Suitable organic peroxyacid oxidising agents for use in the coloring compositions according to the present invention have the general formula:
  • R is selected from saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched chain, alkyl, aryl or alkaryl groups with from 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • a class of organic peroxyacid compounds suitable for use herein are the amide substituted compounds of the following general formulae:
  • R ⁇ is, a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl group, or an aryl group, having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms
  • R ⁇ is, a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl group, or an aryl group, having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms
  • R ⁇ is H or, a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl group, or an aryl group, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • Amide substituted organic peroxyacid compounds of this type are described in EP-A-0, 170,386.
  • organic peroxyacid oxidising agents include peracetic, pernanoic, nonylamidoperoxycaproic acid (NAPCA), perbenzoic, m-chloroperbenzoic, di-peroxy- isophthalic, mono-peroxyphthalic, peroxylauric, hexanesulphonyl peroxy propionic, N,N- phthaloylamino peroxycaproic, monoper succinic, nonanoyloxybenzoic, dodecanedioyl- monoperoxybenzoic, nonylamide of peroxyadipic acid, diacyl and tetraacylperoxides, especially diperoxydodecanedioic acid, diperoxytetradecanedioic acid and diperoxyhexadecanedioic acid and derivatives thereof. Mono- and diperazelaic acid, mono- and diperbrassylic acid and N-phthaloylaminoperoxicaproic acid and derivatives
  • the preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agents should be safe and effective for use in the compositions herein.
  • the preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be soluble in the compositions according to the present invention when in liquid form and in the form intended to be used.
  • organic peroxyacid oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be water-soluble.
  • Water-soluble preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agents as defined herein means agents which have a solubility to the extent of about lOg in 1000ml of deionised water at 25°C ("Chemistry" C. E. Mortimer. 5th Edn. p277).
  • the preferred peroxyacid materials suitable for use herein are selected from peracetic and pernanoic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agent is preferably present at a level of from about 0.01% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 6%, most preferably from about 0.2% to about 4%, and especially from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight of the hair coloring composition.
  • the weight ratio of the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent to the preformed organic peroxy acid is preferably in the range of from about 0.0125:1 to about 500:1, more preferably from about 0.0125:1 to about 50:1.
  • compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine peroxide and mixtures thereof.
  • additional organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine peroxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the level of organic peroxide, where present, is from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.5% and most preferably from about 0.2% to about 1% by weight of composition.
  • the hair coloring compositions of the present invention include as an essential feature an oxidative or non-oxidative hair coloring agent.
  • Such hair coloring agents are used in combination with the oxidising agent and ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate to formulate permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanent or temporary hair dye compositions.
  • Permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are compositions which once applied to the hair are substantially resistant to wash-out.
  • Demi-permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are compositions which are substantially removed from the hair after up to 24 washes.
  • Semi-permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are compositions which once applied to the hair are substantially removed from the hair after up to 10 washes.
  • Temporary hair dye compositions as defined herein are compositions which once applied to the hair are substantially removed from the hair after up to 2 washes.
  • a preferred hair coloring agent herein is an oxidative hair coloring agent.
  • concentration of each oxidative hair coloring agent in the coloring compositions according to the present invention is preferably from about 0.001% to about 3% by weight, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight.
  • the total combined level of oxidative hair coloring agents in the compositions according to the present invention is from about 0.001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3%, most preferably from about 0.1%) to about 1% by weight.
  • oxidative hair coloring agents consist essentially of at least two components, which are collectively referred to as dye forming intermediates (or precursors).
  • Dye forming intermediates can react in the presence of a suitable oxidant to form a colored molecule.
  • the dye forming intermediates used in oxidative hair colorants include: aromatic diamines, aminophenols, various heterocycles, phenols, napthols and their various derivatives. These dye forming intermediates can be broadly classified as; primary intermediates and secondary intermediates.
  • Primary intermediates which are also known as oxidative dye precursors, are chemical compounds which become activated upon oxidation and can then react with each other and/or with couplers to form colored dye complexes.
  • the secondary intermediates also known as color modifiers or couplers, are generally colorless molecules which can form colors in the presence of activated precursors/primary intermediates, and are used with other intermediates to generate specific color effects or to stabilise the color.
  • Primary intermediates suitable for use in the compositions and processes herein include: aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, amino phenols and derivatives of these aromatic compounds (e.g., N-substituted derivatives of the amines, and ethers of the phenols). Such primary intermediates are generally colorless molecules prior to oxidation.
  • the process by which color is generated from these primary intermediates and secondary coupler compounds generally includes a stepwise sequence whereby the primary intermediate can become activated (by oxidation), and then enjoins with a coupler to give a dimeric, conjugated colored species, which in turn can enjoin with another 'activated' primary intermediate to produce a trimeric conjugated colored molecule.
  • oxidative dye primary intermediates include those monomeric materials which, on oxidation, form oligomers or polymers having extended conjugated systems of electrons in their molecular structure. Because of the new electronic structure, the resultant oligomers and polymers exhibit a shift in their electronic spectra to the visible range and appear colored.
  • oxidative primary intermediates capable of forming colored polymers include materials such as aniline, which has a single functional group and which, on oxidation, forms a series of conjugated imines and quinoid dimers, trimers, etc. ranging in color from green to black.
  • Oxidative dyes known in the art can be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
  • a representative list of primary intermediates and secondary couplers suitable for use herein is found in Sagarin, "Cosmetic Science and Technology”," Interscience, Special Ed. Vol. 2 pages 308 to 310. It is to be understood that the primary intermediates detailed below are only by way of example and are not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein.
  • the typical aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, amino phenols, and derivatives thereof, described above as primary intermediates can also have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, e.g. halogen, aldehyde, carboxylic acid, nitro, sulfonic acid and substituted and unsubstituted hydrocarbon groups, as well as additional substituents on the amino nitrogen and on the phenolic oxygen, e.g. substituted and unsubstituted alkyl and aryl groups.
  • Suitable aromatic diamines amino phenols, polyhydric phenols and derivatives thereof, respectively, are compounds having the general formulas (I), (II) and (III) below:
  • Y is hydrogen, halogen, (e.g. fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), nitro, amino, hydroxyl,
  • -COOM or -SO3M where M is hydrogen or an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or substituted ammonium wherein one or more hydrogens on the ammonium ion is replaced with a 1 to 3 carbon atom alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • Ri , R2, R3 and R4 are the same or different from each other and are selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, to C4 alkyl or alkenyl and Cg to C9 aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl
  • R5 is hydrogen, C ⁇ to C4 unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or alkenyl wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Y, above, or C to C9 unsubstituted or substituted aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Y, above.
  • the precursors of formula (I) are amines, they can be used herein in the form of peroxide-compatible salts, as noted, wherein X represents peroxide- compatible anions of the type herein before detailed.
  • the general formula of the salt indicated is to be understood to encompass those salts having mono-, di-, and tri-negative anions.
  • formula (I) compounds are: o-phenylenediamine, m- phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-iodo-p- phenylenediamine, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 1,3,5- triaminobenzene, 2-hydroxy-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-diaminobenzoic acid, sodium 2,4- diaminobenzoate, calcium di-2,4-diaminobenzoate, ammonium 2,4-diaminobenzoate, trimethylammonium 2,4-, diaminobenzoate, tri-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium 2,4- diaminobenzoate, 2,4-diaminobenzaldehyde carbonate, 2,4-diaminobenzensulfonic acid, potassium 2,4-dia
  • Ri and R2 can be the same or different from each other and are the same as in formula (I)
  • R5 is the same as in formula (I) and R is hydrogen or Cj to C4 substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Y in formula (I).
  • formula (II) compounds are: o-aminophenol, m-aminophenol, p-aminophenol, 2-iodo-p-aminophenol, 2-nitro-p- aminophenol, 3,4-dihydroxyaniline, 3,4-diaminophenol, chloroacetate, 2-hydroxy-4- aminobenzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzaldehyde, 3-amino-4- hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, N,N-diisopropyl-p-aminophenol, N-methyl-N-(l- propenyl)-p-aminophenol, N-phenyl-N-benzyl-p-aminophenol sulphate, N-methyl-N-(3- ethylphenyl)-p-aminophenol, 2-nitro-5-ethyl-p-aminophenol, 2-nitro-5-(2-bromoethyl)-p- aminophenol, (2-hydroxy-5-aminoph
  • formula (III) compounds are: o-hydroxyphenol (catechol), m-hydroxyphenol (resorcinol), p-hydroxyphenol (hydroquinone), 4-methoxyphenol, 2-methoxyphenol, 4-(2-chloroethoxy) phenol, 4-(2- propenoxy) phenol, 4-(3-chloro-2-propenoxy) phenol, 2-chloro-4-hydroxyphenol (2- chlorohydroquinone), 2-nitro-4-hydroxyphenol(2-nitrohydroquinone), 2-amino-4- hydroxyphenol, 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene (pyrogallol), 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4- dihydoxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 3-ethyl-4-hydroxyphenol, 3- (2-nitroethyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 3-(2-propenyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 3-(3-chloro-2- propenyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 2-phenyl-4
  • Secondary coupling compounds which are suitable for inclusion in the coloring compositions and processes herein before described include certain aromatic amines and phenols and derivatives thereof which do not produce color singly, but which modify the color, shade or intensity of the colors developed by the primary oxidized dye intermediates.
  • Polyhydric alcohols are also suitable for use as couplers herein.
  • aromatic amines and phenols and derivatives described above as couplers can also have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, e.g., halogen, aldehyde, carboxylic acid, nitro, sulfonyl and substituted and unsubstituted by hydrocarbon groups, as well as additional substituents on the amino nitrogen, or phenolic oxygen, e.g. substituted and unsubstituted alkyl and aryl groups.
  • peroxide-compatible salts thereof are suitable for use herein.
  • aromatic amines examples include phenols and derivatives thereof.
  • aromatic amines examples include phenols and derivatives thereof.
  • Z is hydrogen, C ⁇ and C3 alkyl, halogen (e.g. fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine) nitro,
  • R and R2 are the same or different and are selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, C1 to C4 alkyl or alkenyl and C ⁇ to Co.
  • aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl and R7 is hydrogen, C ⁇ to C4 unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or alkenyl wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Z above or C ⁇ to Co. unsubstituted or substituted aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Z above and wherein X is as defined in formula (I).
  • formula (IV) compounds are: aniline, p-chloroaniline, p-fluoroaniline, p-nitroaniline, p-aminobenzaldehyde, p- aminobenzoic acid, sodium-p-aminobenzoate, lithium-p-aminobenzoate, calcium di-p- aminobenzoate, ammonium-p-aminobenzoate, trimethylammonium-p-aminobenzoate, tri(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, potassium p- aminobenzenesulfonate, N-methylaniline, N-propyl-N-phenylaniline, N-methyl-N-2- propenylaniline, N-benzylaniline, N-(2-ethylphenyl)aniline, 4-methylaniline, 4-(2- bromoethyl)aniline, 2-(2-nitroethyl)aniline, 4-
  • Z and R7 are defined as in formula (IV) and Rg is hydrogen or C ⁇ to C4 substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Z in formula (IV).
  • formula (V) compounds are: phenol, p-chlorophenol, p-nitrophenol, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, p-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, ethylphenyl ether, 2-chloroethylphenyl ether, 2- nitroethylphenyl ether, phenoxyacetaldehyde, phenoxyacetic acid, 3-phenoxy-l-propene,
  • Additional primary intermediates suitable for use herein include catechol species and in particular catechol "dopa” species which includes dopa itself as well as homologs, analogs and derivatives of DOPA.
  • suitable cachetol species include cysteinyl dopa, alpha alkyl dopa having 1 to 4 , preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, epinephrine and dopa alkyl esters having 1 to 6 , preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Ri , R2 and R3, which may be the same or different, are electron donor or acceptor substutuents selected from H, lower (Cj-Cg) alkyl, OH, OR, COOR, NHCOR, CN, COOH, Halogen, NO2, CF3, SO3H or NR4R5, with the proviso that only one of the Ri , R2 or R3 can be CN, COOH, halogen, NO2, CF3 or SO3H: R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are H, lower (C ⁇ -C ⁇ ) alkyl or substituted lower (C ⁇ -C ⁇ ) alkyl in which the substituent may be OH, OR, NHCOR 6 , NHCONH2, NHCO2R6, NHCSNH2, CN, COOH, SO3H, SO NR6, SO 2 R or CO2R6; R ⁇ is lower (C ⁇ -C ⁇ ) alkyl, lower (Ci- C ⁇ ) hydroxyalkyl phenyl linked to
  • oxidative hair coloring agents of the formula:
  • Ri substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring, tertiary-butyl, etc.; R substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring and the formula:
  • the primary intermediates can be used herein alone or in combination with other primary intermediates, and one or more can be used in combination with one or more couplers.
  • the choice of primary intermediates and couplers will be determined by the color, shade and intensity of coloration which is desired.
  • low intensity colors such as natural blond to light brown hair shades generally comprise from about 0.001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 1% by weight of coloring composition of total oxidative dyeing agents and may be achieved by the combination of primary intermediates such as 1 ,4-diamino-benzene, 2,5-diamino toluene, 2,5-diamino-anisole, 4- aminophenol, 2,5-diamino-benzyl alcohol and 2-(2',5'-diamino)phenyl-ethanol with couplers such as resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol or 4-chloro resorcinol.
  • primary intermediates such as 1 ,4-diamino-benzene, 2,5-diamino toluene, 2,5-diamino-anisole, 4- aminophenol, 2,5-diamino-benzyl alcohol and 2-(2
  • the hair coloring compositions of the present invention may, in addition to or instead of an oxidative hair coloring agent, include non-oxidative and other dye materials.
  • Optional non-oxidative and other dyes suitable for use in the hair coloring compositions and processes according to the present invention include both semi-permanent, temporary and other dyes.
  • Non-oxidative dyes as defined herein include the so-called 'direct action dyes', metallic dyes, metal chelate dyes, fibre reactive dyes and other synthetic and natural dyes.
  • Various types of non-oxidative dyes are detailed in: 'Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair' 3rd Ed. by Clarence Robbins (pp250-259); 'The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics'. Volume IV. 2nd Ed. Maison G.
  • Direct action dyes which do not require an oxidative effect in order to develop the color, are also designated hair tints and have long been known in the art. They are usually applied to the hair in a base matrix which includes surfactant material.
  • Direct action dyes include nitro dyes such as the derivatives of nitroamino benzene or nitroaminophenol; disperse dyes such as nitroaryl amines, aminoanthraquinones or azo dyes; anthraquinone dyes, naphthoquinone dyes; basic dyes such as Acridine Orange C.I. 46005.
  • Nitrodyes are added to dyeing compositions to enhance colour of colorant and to add suitable aesthetic colour to the dye mixture prior to application.
  • direct action dyes include the Arianor dyes basic brown 17, C.I.(color index) - no. 12,251; basic red 76, C.I. - 12,245; basic brown 16, C.I. - 12,250; basic yellow 57, C.I. - 12,719 and basic blue 99, C.I. - 56,059 and further direct action dyes such as acid yellow 1, C.I. - 10,316 (D&C yellow no.7); acid yellow 9, C.I. - 13,015 basic violet C.I. - 45,170; disperse yellow 3, C.I. - 11,855; basic yellow 57, C.I. - 12,719 disperse yellow 1, C.I.
  • Fibre reactive dyes include the Procion (RTM), Drimarene (RTM), Cibacron (RTM), Levafix (RTM) and Remazol (RTM) dyes available from ICI, Sandoz, Ciba-Geigy, Bayer and Hoechst respectively.
  • Natural dyes and vegetable dyes as defined herein include henna (Lawsonia alba), camomile (Matricaria chamomila or Anthemis nobilis), indigo, logwood and walnut hull extract.
  • Temporary hair dyes are generally comprised of dye molecules which are too large to diffuse into the hair shaft and which act on the exterior of the hair. They are usually applied via a leave-in procedure in which the dye solution is allowed to dry on the hair surface. As such these dyes are typically less resistant to the effects of washing and cleaning the hair with surface active agents and are washed off of the hair with relative ease. Any temporary hair dye may suitably be used in the compositions of the invention and examples of preferred temporary hair dyes are illustrated below.
  • Semi-permanent hair dyes are dyes which are generally smaller in size and effect to temporary hair rinses but are generally larger than permanent (oxidative) dyes.
  • semi-permanent dyes act in a similar manner to oxidative dyes in that they have the potential to diffuse into the hair shaft.
  • semi-permanent dyes are generally smaller in size than the aforementioned conjugated oxidative dye molecules and as such are pre-disposed to gradual diffusion out of the hair again. Simple hair washing and cleaning action will encourage this process and in general semi-permanent dyes are largely washed out of the hair after about 5 to 8 washes. Any semi-permanent dye system may be suitably used in the compositions of the present invention.
  • Suitable semipermanent dyes for use in the compositions of the present invention are HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Red 3, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, HC Blue 7, HC Yellow 2, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse violet 1 and mixtures thereof. Examples of semi-permanent dyes are illustrated below:
  • Typical semi-permanent dye systems inco ⁇ orate mixtures of both large and small color molecules.
  • the small molecules will diffuse both at the root and tip, but will not be retained within the tip, while the larger molecules will be generally only be able to diffuse into the ends of the hair.
  • This combination of dye molecule size is used to help give consistent color results from the root to the tip of the hair both during the initial dyeing process and during subsequent washing.
  • compositions herein is ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate, preferably at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5%, and especially from about 2% to about 5% by weight.
  • the coloring compositions of the present invention have a pH in the range of from about 7 to about 9 , preferably from about 8 to about 9.
  • the pH of the preferred coloring compositions of the present invention are maintained within the desired pH range via the action of the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent and the ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate.
  • the compositions may contain one or more optional buffering agents and/or hair swelling agents (HSAs).
  • HSAs hair swelling agents
  • Several different pH modifiers can be used to adjust the pH of the final composition or any constituent part thereof.
  • preferred compositions herein are substantially free of additional buffering agents, buffering agents and hair swelling agents, i.e. they comprise less than about 1%>, preferably less than about 0.5%, more preferably less than about 0.1 %> by weight of such agents.
  • This pH adjustment can be effected by using well known acidifying agents in the field of treating keratinous fibres, and in particular human hair, such as inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, phosphoric acid and carboxylic or sulphonic acids such as ascorbic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, sulphuric acid, formic acid, ammonium sulphate and sodium dihydrogenphosphate /phosphoric acid, disodium hydrogenphosphate /phosphoric acid, potassium chloride /hydrochloric acid, potassium dihydrogen phthalate/ hydrochloric acid, sodium citrate / hydrochloric acid, potassium dihydrogen citrate /hydrochloric acid, potassium dihydrogencitrate/ citric acid, sodium citrate / citric acid, sodium tartarate/ tartaric acid, sodium lactate/ lactic acid, sodium acetate/ acetic acid, disodium hydrogenphosphate/ citric acid and sodium chloride/ glycine
  • alkaline buffering agents are ammonium hydroxide, ethylamine, dipropylamine, triethylamine and alkanediamines such as 1,3-diaminopropane, anhydrous alkaline alkanolamines such as, mono or di- ethanolamine, preferably those which are completely substituted on the amine group such as dimethylaminoethanol, polyalkylene polyamines such as diethylenetriamine or a heterocyclic amine such as mo ⁇ holine as well as the hydroxides of alkali metals, such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, hydroxides of alkali earth metals, such as magnesium and calcium hydroxide, basic amino acids such as L-argenine, lysine, alanine, leucine, iso-leucine, oxylysine and histidine and alkanolamines such as dimethylaminoethanol and aminoalkylpropanediol and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the present invention may, as will be described later herein, be comprised of a final solution containing oxidising agent, hair coloring agent and ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate which have been admixed prior to application to the hair or a single component system.
  • the compositions according to the present invention may comprise coloring kits of a number of separate components.
  • oxidising and coloring kits comprising a portion of inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, which may be present in either solid or liquid form
  • a buffering agent solution can be used to stabilise hydrogen peroxide. Since hydrogen peroxide is stable in the pH range from 2 to 4, it is preferable to use a buffering agent having a pH within this range. Dilute acids are suitable hydrogen peroxide buffering agents.
  • the coloring compositions herein may optionally contain a transition metal containing catalyst for the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents and the, optional, preformed peroxy acid oxidising agent(s).
  • One suitable type of catalyst is a catalyst system comprising a heavy metal cation of defined bleach catalytic activity, such as copper, iron or manganese cations, an auxiliary metal cation having little or no bleach catalytic activity, such as zinc or aluminium cations, and a sequestrant having defined stability constants for the catalytic and auxiliary metal cations, particularly ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) and water-soluble salts thereof.
  • Such catalysts are disclosed in US-A-4,430,243.
  • Suitable catalysts include the manganese-based complexes disclosed in US- A-5, 246,621 and US-A-5,244,594. Preferred examples of these catalysts include Mn ⁇ 2(u-O)3( 1 ,4,7-trimethyl- 1 ,4,7-triazacyclononane)2-(PFg)2, M ⁇ 2( U ⁇ ) 1 ( u ⁇
  • ligands suitable for use herein include l,5,9-trimethyl-l,5,9- triazacyclododecane, 2-methyl- 1 ,4,7-triazacyclononane, 2-methyl- 1 ,4,7- triazacyclononane, l,2,4,7-tetramethyl-l,4,7-triazacyclononane, and mixtures thereof.
  • suitable catalysts see US-A-4,246,612 and US-A-5, 227,084. See also
  • US-A-5, 194,416 which teaches mononuclear manganese (IV) complexes such as Mn(l,4,7-trimethyl-l,4,7-triazacyclononane)(OCH3)3_(PF6).
  • Still another type of suitably catalyst, as disclosed in US-A-5, 114,606, is a water-soluble complex of manganese (III), and or (IV) with a ligand which is a non-carboxylate polyhydroxy compound having at least three consecutive C-OH groups.
  • binuclear Mn complexed with tetra-N-dentate and bi-N-dentate ligands including N 4 Mn ⁇ (u-O)2Mn IV N4) + and [Bipy2Mn ⁇ i( u -O)2Mn Iv bipy 2 ]-(Cl ⁇ 4)3.
  • the coloring compositions of the invention may contain as an optional component a heavy metal ion sequestrant.
  • heavy metal ion sequestrant it is meant herein components which act to sequester (chelate or scavenge) heavy metal ions. These components may also have calcium and magnesium chelation capacity, but preferentially they show selectivity to binding heavy metal ions such as iron, manganese and copper.
  • sequestering agents are valuable in hair coloring compositions as herein described for the delivery of controlled oxidising action as well as for the provision of good storage stability of the hair coloring products.
  • Heavy metal ion sequestrants are generally present at a level of from about 0.005%) to about 20%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.05%) to about 2% by weight of the compositions.
  • Various sequestering agents including the amino phosphonates, available as Dequest (RTM) from Monsanto, the nitriloacetates, the hydroxyethyl-ethylene triamines and the like are known for such use.
  • Suitable heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein include organic phosphonates, such as the amino alkylene poly (alkylene phosphonates), alkali metal ethane 1 -hydroxy disphosphonates and nitrilo trimethylene phosphonates.
  • Preferred among the above species are diethylene triamine penta (methylene phosphonate), ethylene diamine tri (methylene phosphonate) hexamethylene diamine terra (methylene phosphonate) and hydroxy-ethylene 1 , 1 diphosphonate.
  • Preferred biodegradable non-phosphorous heavy metal ion sequestrants suitable for use herein include nitrilotriacetic acid and polyaminocarboxylic acids such as ethylenediaminotetracetic acid, ethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, ethylenediamine diglutaric acid, 2-hydroxypropylenediamine disuccinic acid or any salts thereof.
  • ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid see US-A-4,704,233, or the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or substituted ammonium salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein are iminodiacetic acid derivatives such as 2-hydroxyethyl diacetic acid or glyceryl imino diacetic acid, described in EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133.
  • iminodiacetic acid-N-2- hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3- sulfonic acid sequestrants described in EP-A-516,102 are also suitable herein.
  • EP-A-476,257 describes suitable amino based sequestrants.
  • EP-A-510,331 describes suitable sequestrants derived from collagen, keratin or casein.
  • EP-A-528,859 describes a suitable alkyl iminodiacetic acid sequestrant. Dipicolinic acid and 2-phosphonobutane- 1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid are also suitable.
  • Glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG) and 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N-N'- disuccinic acid (HPDDS) are also suitable.
  • the heavy metal ion sequestering agents of the present invention may be used in their alkali or alkaline earth metal salts. Thickeners
  • the coloring compositions of the present invention may additionally include a thickener at a level of from about 0.05%> to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5%) to about 5% by weight.
  • Thickening agents suitable for use in the compositions herein are selected from oleic acid, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, sodium chloride, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, synthetic thickeners such as Carbopol, Aculyn and Acrosyl and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred thickeners for use herein are Aculyn 22 (RTM), steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer; Aculyn 44 (RTM) ,polyurethane resin and Acusol 830 (RTM), acrylates copolymer which are available from Rohm and Haas, Philadelphia, PA, USA.
  • Additional thickening agents suitable for use herein include sodium alginate or gum arabic, or cellulose derivatives, such as methyl cellulose or the sodium salt of carboxymethylcellulose or acrylic polymers.
  • Water is the preferred diluent for the compositions according to the present invention.
  • compositions according to the present invention may include one or more solvents as additional diluent materials.
  • solvents suitable for use in the coloring compositions of the present invention are selected to be miscible with water and innocuous to the skin.
  • Solvents suitable for use as additional diluents herein include Ci -
  • alcoholic residues containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • a preferred group includes ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • Water is the preferred principal diluent in the compositions according to the present invention. Principal diluent, as defined herein, means, that the level of water present is higher than the total level of any other diluents.
  • the diluent is present at a level preferably of from about 5% to about 99.98%>, preferably from about 15% to about 99.5%, more preferably at least from about 30% to about 99%>, and especially from about 50%> to about 98%> by weight of the compositions herein.
  • Enzvme A further additional material useful in the hair coloring compositions according to the present invention is one or more enzymes.
  • Suitable enzymatic materials include the commercially available Upases, cutinases, amylases, neutral and alkaline proteases, esterases, cellulases, pectinases, lactases and peroxidases conventionally inco ⁇ orated into detergent compositions. Suitable enzymes are discussed in US Patents 3,519,570 and 3,533,139.
  • Peroxidases are haemoproteins specific for peroxide, but using a wide range of substances as donors. Catalase which decomposes peroxide, is included here in view of the fact that it is generally similar in structure and properties and is able to bring about certain oxidations by H2O2.
  • the decomposition of H2O2 can be regarded as the oxidation of one molecule by the other. It is widespread in aerobic cells and may have some more important function.
  • the coenzyme peroxidases are not haemoproteins and one at least is a flavoprotein.
  • Suitable peroxidases for the compositions of the present invention include horseradish peroxidase, Japanese radish peroxidase, cow's milk peroxidase, rat liver peroxidase, linginase and haloperoxidase such as chloro- and bromo-peroxidase.
  • Enzymes are optionally inco ⁇ orated at levels sufficient to provide up to about 50 mg by weight, more typically about 0.0 lmg to about 10 mg of active enzyme per gramm of the hair treatment composition of the invention. Stated otherwise the peroxidase enzyme may be inco ⁇ orated into the compositions in accordance with the invention at a level of from about 0.0001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.001% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 1% active enzyme by weight of the composition.
  • protease enzymes include those sold under the trade names Alcalase, Savinase, Primase, Durazym, and Esperase by Novo Industries A/S (Denmark), those sold under the tradename Maxatase, Maxacal and Maxapem by Gist-Brocades, those sold by Genencor International, and those sold under the tradename Opticlean and Optimase by Solvay Enzymes.
  • Protease enzyme may be inco ⁇ orated into the compositions in accordance with the invention at a level of from 0.0001% to 4% active enzyme by weight of the composition.
  • Amylases include, for example, ⁇ -amylases obtained from a special strain of B licheniformis, described in more detail in GB- 1,269,839 (Novo).
  • Preferred commercially available amylases include for example, those sold under the tradename Rapidase by Gist-Brocades, and those sold under the tradename Termamyl and BAN by Novo Industries A/S.
  • Amylase enzyme may be inco ⁇ orated into the composition in accordance with the invention at a level of from 0.0001% to 2% active enzyme by weight of the composition.
  • Lipolytic enzyme may be present at levels of active lipolytic enzyme of from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 1% by weight, most preferably from 0.001% to 0.5%) by weight of the compositions.
  • the lipase may be fungal or bacterial in origin being obtained, for example, from a lipase producing strain of Humicola sp., Thermomyces sp. or Pseudomonas sp. including Pseudomonas pseudoalcaligenes or Pseudomas fluorescens. Lipase from chemically or genetically modified mutants of these strains are also useful herein.
  • a preferred lipase is derived from Pseudomonas pseudoalcaligenes. which is described in Granted European Patent, EP-B-0218272.
  • Another preferred lipase herein is obtained by cloning the gene from Humicola lanuginosa and expressing the gene in Aspergillus oryza. as host, as described in European Patent Application, EP-A-0258 068, which is commercially available from Novo Industri A S, Bagsvaerd, Denmark, under the trade name Lipolase. This lipase is also described in U.S. Patent 4,810,414, Huge- Jensen et al, issued March 7, 1989.
  • compositions of the present invention can additionally contain a surfactant system.
  • Suitable surfactants for inclusion in the compositions of the invention generally have a lipophilic chain length of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms and can be selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • Anionic surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the invention include alkyl sulphates, ethoxylated alkyl sulphates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonates, methyl acyl taurates, fatty acyl glycinates, N-acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ethoxysulphosuccinates, alpha-sulfonated fatty acids, their salts and/or their esters, alkyl ethoxy carboxylates, alkyl phosphate esters, ethoxylated alkyl phosphate esters, alkyl sulphates, acyl sarcosinates and fatty acid/protein condensates, and mixtures thereof.
  • Alkyl and or acyl chain lengths for these surfactants are C12-C22 . preferably C12-C18 more preferably C 12 14.
  • compositions of the invention can also comprise water-soluble nonionic surfactant(s).
  • surfactants of this class include C 12 14 fatty acid mono-and diethanolamides, sucrose polyester surfactants and polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants having the general formula below.
  • N-alkyl, N-alkoxy or N-aryloxy, polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants according to the above formula are those in which Rg is C5-C31 hydrocarbyl, preferably
  • C ⁇ -Cjo. hydrocarbyl including straight-chain and branched chain alkyl and alkenyl, or mixtures thereof and R9 is typically hydrogen, C ⁇ -Cg alkyl or hydroxyalkyl, preferably methyl, or a group of formula -R1-0-R2 wherein R is C2-Cg hydrocarbyl including straight-chain, branched-chain and cyclic (including aryl), and is preferably C2-C4 alkylene, R ⁇ is Ci-Cg straight-chain, branched-chain and cyclic hydrocarbyl including aryl and oxyhydrocarbyl, and is preferably C1 -C4 alkyl, especially methyl, or phenyl.
  • Z2 is a polyhydroxyhydrocarbyl moiety having a linear hydrocarbyl chain with at least 2 (in the case of glyceraldehyde) or at least 3 hydroxyls (in the case of other reducing sugars) directly connected to the chain, or an alkoxylated derivative (preferably ethoxylated or propoxylated) thereof.
  • Z2 preferably will be derived from a reducing sugar in a reductive amination reaction, most preferably Z2 is a glycityl moiety.
  • Suitable reducing sugars include glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, and xylose, as well as glyceraldehyde.
  • Z2 preferably will be selected from the group consisting of -CH2-(CHOH) n -CH2OH, -CH(CH2OH)- (CHOH) n _ ⁇ -CH 2 H, CH 2 (CHOH)2(CHOR')CHOH)-CH 2 OH, where n is an integer from 1 to 5, inclusive, and R' is H or a cyclic mono- or polysaccharide, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof. As noted, most preferred are glycityls wherein n is 4, particularly - CH -(CHOH) 4 -CH 2 OH.
  • the most preferred polyhydroxy fatty acid amide has the formula R 8 (CO)N(CH 3 )CH2(CHOH) 4 CH2OH wherein R 8 is a C6-C19 straight chain alkyl or alkenyl group.
  • Rg-CO-N ⁇ can be, for example, cocoamide, stearamide, oleamide, lauramide, myristamide, capricamide, palmiamide, tallowamide, etc.
  • Suitable oil derived nonionic surfactants for use herein include water soluble vegetable and animal-derived emollients such as triglycerides with a polyethyleneglycol chain inserted; ethoxylated mono and di-glycerides, polyethoxylated lanolins and ethoxylated butter derivatives.
  • water soluble vegetable and animal-derived emollients such as triglycerides with a polyethyleneglycol chain inserted
  • ethoxylated mono and di-glycerides ethoxylated mono and di-glycerides
  • polyethoxylated lanolins polyethoxylated lanolins
  • ethoxylated butter derivatives ethoxylated butter derivatives.
  • One preferred class of oil-derived nonionic surfactants for use herein have the general formula below:
  • n is from about 5 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, more preferably from about 30 to about 85, and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having on average from about 5 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Suitable ethoxylated oils and fats of this class include polyethyleneglycol derivatives of glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl caproate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl tallowate, glyceryl palmate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and glyceryl fatty esters derived from triglycerides, such as palm oil, almond oil, and corn oil, preferably glyceryl tallowate and glyceryl cocoate.
  • Preferred for use herein are polyethyleneglycol based polyethoxylated C9-C15 fatty alcohol nonionic surfactants containing an average of from about 5 to about 50 ethyleneoxy moieties per mole of surfactant.
  • Suitable polyethylene glycol based polyethoxylated C9-C15 fatty alcohols suitable for use herein include C9-C11 Pareth-3, C9-C11 Pareth-4, C9-C11 Pareth-5, C9-C11 Pareth- 6, C9-C11 Pareth-7, C9-C1 1 Pareth-8, C11-C15 Pareth-3, C11-C15 Pareth-4, C11-C15 Pareth-5, C1 1 -C15 Pareth-6, C11-C15 Pareth-7, C11-C15 Pareth-8, C11 -C15 Pareth-9, C11-C15 Pareth-10, C11-C15 Pareth-11, C ⁇ -Ci5 Pareth-12, C11-C15 Pareth-13 and l 1-Cl5 Pareth-14.
  • PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil is commercially available under the tradename Cremophor (RTM) from BASF.
  • RTM Cremophor
  • PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG 20 glyceryl laurate are commercially available from Henkel under the tradenames Cetiol (RTM) HE and Lamacit (RTM) GML 20 respectively.
  • C9-C ⁇ ⁇ Pareth-8 is commercially available from Shell Ltd under the tradename Dobanol (RTM) 91-8.
  • Particulary preferred for use herein are polyethylene glycol ethers of ceteryl alcohol such as Ceteareth 25 which is available from BASF under the trade name Cremaphor A25.
  • nonionic surfactants derived from composite vegetable fats extracted from the fruit of the Shea Tree (Butyrospermum Karkii Kotschy) and derivatives thereof.
  • ethoxylated derivatives of Mango, Cocoa and Illipe butter may be used in compositions according to the invention. Although these are classified as ethoxylated nonionic surfactants it is understood that a certain proportion may remain as non-ethoxylated vegetable oil or fat.
  • suitable oil-derived nonionic surfactants include ethoxylated derivatives of almond oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil.
  • Amphoteric surfactants suitable for use in the compositions of the invention include:
  • Ri is C7-C22 alkyl or alkenyl
  • R2 is hydrogen or CH2Z
  • each Z is independently CO2M or CH2CO2M
  • M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium; and/or ammonium derivatives of formula (VIII)
  • n, m, p, and q are numbers from 1 to 4, and Ri and M are independently selected from the groups specified above;
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are marketed under the trade name Miranol and Empigen and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species.
  • amphoteric surfactants of type (a) include compounds of formula XII and or XIII in which R ⁇ is CgHi 7 (especially iso-capryl), C9H19 and C1 1H23 alkyl.
  • Ri is C9H19, Z is CO2M and R2 is H; the compounds in which Ri is C11H23, Z is CO2M and R2 is CH2CO2M; and the compounds in which R is C1 1H23, Z is CO2M and R2 is H.
  • materials suitable for use in the present invention include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxy propionic acid, and especially cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate (otherwise referred to as cocoamphocarboxyglycinate).
  • Specific commercial products include those sold under the trade names of Ampholak 7TX (sodium carboxy methyl tallow polypropyl amine), Empigen CDL60 and CDR 60 (Albright & Wilson), Miranol H2M Cone. Miranol C2M Cone. N.P., Miranol C2M Cone.
  • Miranol C2M SF Miranol CM Special (Rh ⁇ ne- Poulenc); Alkateric 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); Amphoterge W-2 (Lonza, Inc.); Monateric CDX-38, Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries); Rewoteric AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and Schercotic MS-2 (Scher Chemicals).
  • amphoteric surfactants suitable for use herein include Octoxynol-1 (RTM), polyoxethylene (1) octylphenyl ether; Nonoxynol-4 (RTM), polyoxyethylene (4) nonylphenyl ether and Nonoxynol-9, polyoxyethylene (9) nonylphenyl ether.
  • amphoteric surfactants of this type are manufactured and sold in the form of electroneutral complexes with, for example, hydroxide counterions or with anionic sulfate or sulfonate surfactants, especially those of the sulfated Cg-Cjg alcohol, Cg-Ci g ethoxylated alcohol or Cg-Cjg acyl glyceride types.
  • concentrations and weight ratios of the amphoteric surfactants are based herein on the uncomplexed forms of the surfactants, any anionic surfactant counterions being considered as part of the overall anionic surfactant component content.
  • amphoteric surfactants of type (b) include N-alkyl polytrimethylene poly-, carboxymethylamines sold under the trade names Ampholak X07 and Ampholak 7CX by Berol Nobel and also salts, especially the triethanolammonium salts and salts of N-lauryl-beta-amino propionic acid and N-lauryl-imino-dipropionic acid.
  • Such materials are sold under the trade name Deriphat by Henkel and Mirataine by Rh ⁇ ne-Poulenc.
  • Water-soluble auxiliary zwitterionic surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl betaines of the formula R5R5R7N "1" (CH2) n CO2M and amido betaines of the formula (XII) below:
  • R5 is C1 1-C22 alkyl or alkenyl
  • R ⁇ and R7 are independently C1-C3 alkyl
  • M is H
  • alkali metal alkaline earth metal
  • n, m are each numbers from 1 to 4.
  • Preferred betaines include cocoamidopropyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, laurylamidopropyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine and Tego betaine (RTM).
  • auxiliary sultaine surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl sultaines of the formula (XIII) below:
  • R ⁇ is C7 to C22 alkyl or alkenyl
  • R2 and R3 are independently C ⁇ to C3 alkyl
  • M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium and m and n are numbers from 1 to 4.
  • Preferred for use herein is coco amido propylhydroxy sultaine.
  • Water-soluble auxiliary amine oxide surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl amine oxide R5R6R7NO and amido amine oxides of the formula (XIV) below: R 6
  • R5 is C ⁇ 1 to C22 alkyl or alkenyl
  • R ⁇ and R7 are independently C ⁇ to C3 alkyl
  • M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium and m is a number from 1 to 4.
  • Preferred amine oxides include cocoamidopropylamine oxide, lauryl dimethyl amine oxide and myristyl dimethyl amine oxide.
  • a number of additional optional materials can be added to the coloring compositions herein described each at a level of from about 0.001% to about 5%>, preferably from about
  • compositions include proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble or solubilizable preservatives such as DMDM Hydantoin, Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM)
  • K400 natural preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate and bisabalol, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate and 2-phenoxyethanol; antioxidants such as sodium sulphite, hydroquinone, sodium bisulphite, sodium metabisulphite and thyoglycolic acid, sodium dithionite, erythrobic acid and other mercaptans; dye removers such as oxalic acid, sulphated castor oil, salicylic acid and sodium thiosulphate; H2O2 stabilisers such as tin compounds such as sodium stannate, stannic hydroxide and stannous octoate, acetanilide, phenacetin colloidal silica such as magnesium silicate, oxyquinoline sulphate, sodium phosphate, and tetrasodium pyrophosphate; and hydroxybenzoates; moisturising agents such as hyaluronic acid, chitin , and starch-grafted sodium
  • viscosity control agents such as magnesium sulfate and other electrolytes
  • viscosity control agents such as magnesium sulfate and other electrolytes
  • quaternary amine compounds such as distearyl-, dilauryl-, di-hydrogenated beef tallow-, dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyldiethyl ammoniumethylsulphate, ditallowdimethyl ammonium methylsulphate, disoya dimethyl ammonium chloride and dicoco dimethyl ammonium chloride
  • hair conditioning agents such as silicones, higher alcohols, cationic polymers and the like
  • enzyme stabilisers such as water soluble sources of calcium or borate species
  • colouring agents Ti ⁇ 2 and Ti ⁇ 2-coated mica
  • perfumes and perfume solubilizers and zeolites such as Valfour BV400 and derivatives thereof and Ca2+/Mg2+ sequestrants such as polycarboxylates, amino polycarboxylates, polyphosphonates, amino
  • Oxidising agent hydrogen peroxide Oxidative Dye 1 para-phenylene diamine
  • Oxidative Dye 2 2,5-diaminotoluene sulphate
  • Oxidative Dye 3 para-aminophenol
  • Oxidative Dye 4 resorcinol
  • Oxidative Dye 5 m-aminophenol
  • Oxidative Dye 6 m-phenylenediamine
  • Oxidative Dye 7 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine
  • Chelating agent tetrasodium EDTA Surfactant 1 Ceteareth-25 Thickener 1 Cetyl alcohol Thickener 2 Stearyl alcohol Alkali 1 Ammonium carbonate Solvent Dipropylene glycol
  • Examples I - XV The following are hair treatment compositions in the form of hair coloring compositions which are representative of the present invention.
  • Oxidative Dye 1 0.85 0 0 0.37 0 0 0.75 0
  • Oxidative Dye 2 0 0.43 0.5 0 0 0.1 0 0.09
  • Oxidative Dye 3 0 0.16 0 0.25 0.4 0.1 0 0.02
  • Oxidative Dye 4 0.21 0.05 0 0.2 0 0.8 0.27 0.04
  • Oxidative Dye 5 0.21 0.05 0 0.9 0 0.005 0.15 0.008
  • Oxidative Dye 6 0.05 0 0 0 0 0 0.01 0.001
  • Oxidative Dye 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
  • Oxidative Dye 8 0 0 0 0 0.11 0 0 0 0
  • Oxidative Dye 9 0 0.25 0.25 0.7 0.16 0.0025 0 0
  • Antioxidant 1 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2
  • Antioxidant 2 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.25 0.5 0.1 0.5 0.5
  • Oxidative Dye 2 0.3 0 0 0.26 0 0.03 0.1
  • Oxidative Dye 3 0.3 0.05 0 0.19 0.12 0.16 0.05
  • Oxidative Dye 4 0.05 0.14 0.05 0.16 0.15 0.05 0.05
  • Oxidative Dye 5 0 0.025 0.09 0.01 0.02 0 0.005
  • Oxidative Dye 6 0 0 0.13 0 0 0 0 0 Oxidative Dye 7 0 0 0.1 0 0 0 0 0 0
  • Oxidative Dye 8 0.13 0 0.04 0 0 0 0.015
  • Oxidative Dye 9 0.16 0 0 0.013 0.025 0.06 0.001
  • Antioxidant 1 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
  • Antioxidant 2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2
  • water is used as the diluent.
  • water can be replaced, in part, by from about 0.5%> to about 50% by weight of the total water content of the examples by diluents such as lower alcohols, e.g., ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, glycerine, butoxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol, hexylene glycol, polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether and mixtures thereof.
  • lower alcohols e.g., ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, glycerine, butoxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol,
  • Examples I-XV provide a complete range of colours, i.e. from blondes to blacks, while reducing skin irritation, hair damage and odor.
  • the compositions of the examples also provide excellent grey coverage.
  • dyeing compositions be in a form which is easy and convenient to prepare and use by the consumer, since the oxidising agent must remain in contact with the hair for a certain period of time and not run or drip off of the hair, possibly causing eye or skin irritation.
  • the coloring compositions of the present invention can be provided in both a single pack or in kit form as separately packaged components to maintain stability, and, if so desired, either mixed by the user immediately prior to application to the hair, or mixed and stored for future use, or mixed and partly used and the remainder stored for future use.
  • compositions according to the present invention may be used by the consumer as a single component package.
  • a single pack would comprise a single solution at pH 7 to 9 containing the oxidising agent, the hair coloring agent and the ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate.
  • the solution would be applied directly to the hair by the consumer without the need for any pretreatments or mixing thereby providing a simple, fast, easy to use, 'no-mess' hair coloring system.
  • a further advantage of such a single component system is that it could be stored and re-used i.e., a single package could contain enough coloring composition for several applications over time.
  • a hair bleaching and coloring composition is applied directly to the hair and wherein the hair bleaching and coloring composition comprises:
  • composition has a pH of from about 7 to about 9.
  • the coloring compositions herein are applied to the hair for periods of from 1 minute to 60 minutes depending upon the degree of coloring required. A preferred time is between 5 minutes and 30 minutes.
  • the coloring compositions according to the present invention can be applied to both wet and dry hair.
  • a method for bleaching and coloring hair comprising the steps of applying to the hair a first component comprising an oxidising agent followed by applying to the hair a second component comprising an oxidative and/or non-oxidative hair coloring agent in combination with ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate.
  • the present invention provides a method for bleaching and coloring the hair comprising the steps of applying to the hair a first component comprising an oxidative and/or non-oxidative hair coloring agent in combination with ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate followed by applying to the hair a second component comprising an oxidising agent.
  • kits wherein the kit comprises two or more separate components.
  • the kit components are admixed to form a coloring composition prior to application to the hair.
  • the individual components can be applied separately to the hair in a sequential manner.
  • a preferred kit herein comprises at least two components, a first component containing a combination of an oxidative and/or non-oxidative hair coloring agent and ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate and a second component comprising an oxidising agent.
  • the components can either be mixed by the user immediately prior to application to the hair or can be applied separately.
  • the components can also be mixed and the resulting composition can be stored for future use or part of the resulting composition can be used and the rest of the composition stored for future use.
  • the oxidising component comprises a stabilised aqueous solution of an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent, most generally hydrogen peroxide in an amount such that the final concentration of the coloring composition for use on the hair is from about 0.05% to about 6% by weight and additional agents as herein before described.
  • a hair coloring kit comprising a single package including therein: (1) a 50 ml bottle of hydrogen peroxide (6% by weight of H2O2), and optionally buffering agents and/or stabilisers; and (2) a 50 ml bottle containing one or more oxidative hair coloring agents, ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate and, optionally, additional agents such as surfactants, stabilisers, buffering agents, antioxidants, thickeners etc.
  • the component containing the oxidative hair coloring agents and ammonium carbonate and/or carbamate can either be admixed with the hydrogen peroxide to form the dyeing system of the present invention and the resulting solution can be either applied to the hair to color it or stored for future use, or the separately packaged stable components can be stored and mixed when required.
  • kit components for the hair coloring compositions according to the present invention include separately packaged oxidant component and a separately packaged oxidative hair coloring agent component comprising hair coloring agent and ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium carbamate wherein either one or both components are present in particulate form.

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition pour décolorants et colorants capillaires renfermant (a) un agent oxydant; (b) un agent colorant capillaire oxydatif et/ou non oxydatif; et (c) du carbonate d'ammonium et/ou du carbamate, le pH de ladite composition allant d'environ 7 à environ 9. Ces produits, qui assurent une excellente coloration capillaire, une multitude de nuances et un bon pouvoir couvrant du gris, présentent une irritation cutanée et une agressivité pour les cheveux moindres ainsi qu'une odeur réduite.
EP00973666A 1999-10-20 2000-10-18 Compositions pour colorants capillaires et procedes Ceased EP1221932A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GBGB9924885.8A GB9924885D0 (en) 1999-10-20 1999-10-20 Hair colouring compositions and methods
GB9924885 1999-10-20
PCT/US2000/028904 WO2001028508A1 (fr) 1999-10-20 2000-10-18 Compositions pour colorants capillaires et procedes

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1221932A1 true EP1221932A1 (fr) 2002-07-17

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EP00973666A Ceased EP1221932A1 (fr) 1999-10-20 2000-10-18 Compositions pour colorants capillaires et procedes

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EP (1) EP1221932A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2003512309A (fr)
CN (1) CN1209094C (fr)
AU (1) AU1215501A (fr)
GB (1) GB9924885D0 (fr)
MX (1) MXPA02003915A (fr)
WO (1) WO2001028508A1 (fr)

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JP2003512309A (ja) 2003-04-02
AU1215501A (en) 2001-04-30
GB9924885D0 (en) 1999-12-22
CN1411361A (zh) 2003-04-16
CN1209094C (zh) 2005-07-06
MXPA02003915A (es) 2002-09-30
WO2001028508A1 (fr) 2001-04-26

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