MXPA99005973A - Hair coloring compositions - Google Patents

Hair coloring compositions

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Publication number
MXPA99005973A
MXPA99005973A MXPA/A/1999/005973A MX9905973A MXPA99005973A MX PA99005973 A MXPA99005973 A MX PA99005973A MX 9905973 A MX9905973 A MX 9905973A MX PA99005973 A MXPA99005973 A MX PA99005973A
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Mexico
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
less
per
coloring
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MXPA/A/1999/005973A
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Spanish (es)
Inventor
Charles Dunbar James
Carlos Dias Louis
Pratt Dominic
Original Assignee
Procter & Gamble Company The
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Application filed by Procter & Gamble Company The filed Critical Procter & Gamble Company The
Publication of MXPA99005973A publication Critical patent/MXPA99005973A/en

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Abstract

A hair coloring composition comprising:(a) from about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 100 g of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent;and (b) an oxidative hair coloring agent;wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1 to about 6 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) has a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6. The products can provide excellent hair coloring and in-use efficacy benefits including excellent initial color and good wash fastness in combination with reduced hair damage at low pH.

Description

COMPOSITIONS TO DYE HAIR TECHNICAL FIELD This invention relates to compositions and processes for dyeing hair and, more especially with hair dyeing compositions comprising an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent in combination with an oxidative agent for dyeing the hair at an acidic pH of between about 1. and approximately 6.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The desire to alter the color of human hair is not a facet of modern times. From the days of the Roman Empire the color of human hair was routinely altered to adjust for changes in fashion and style. However, the achievement of the initial precise colors that were retained by the hair for a desired period has remained an elusive goal. The difficulties in the development of hair coloring compositions that can provide accurate and long-lasting colors are due in part to the inherent structure of the hair itself and partly to the conditions necessary for the effectiveness of the processes for dyeing the hair. In general, the condition and structure of the hair P835 human is not uniform along the length of the hair strand. Human hair is subject to various chemical and mechanical treatments, for example combing, brushing, shampooing, heating, application of perms as well as exposure to the sun. In this way, the hair at the ends of the strand will generally exhibit greater signs of damage in relation to the new growth hair that is close to the scalp. This damage can lead to an inconsistent coloration when the hair is dyed due to an irregular absorption of the hair dyeing agents along the length of the strand. Once the hair has been colored there is a desire for the color to be resistant to fading, due to the effect of the washing action (also known as washing strength), perspiration, hair spray and other external factors such as the action of the sun. In addition, the color is retained in a consistent manner for a predictable period of time. Additionally, hair damage can lead to uneven absorption of the dye as mentioned above, which in turn leads to increased fading of the damaged portions of the hair and consequently irregular levels of color fading over time. An additional difficulty that is commonly associated with the dyeing of human hair is the need for dyeing systems that avoid any adverse effect on the wearer's hair and skin, for example brittle hair, or skin irritation or dyeing (coloring) of the skin. Therefore, it would be desirable to develop a hair dye composition that exhibits reduced fading, provides better fading resistance during a regular cleansing regime, can provide essentially consistent hair color throughout the hair, which has reduced irritant effect on the hair. the skin, which has a reduced stain for the skin, which can reduce the adverse effects on the user's hair and also which develops a convenient and easy-to-use method for the administration of the composition for dyeing the hair. Over the years, important effects have been realized towards the elimination of many of the problems associated with the dyeing of human hair. Several approaches to dyeing have been developed, including direct-acting dyes, natural dyes, metallic dyes and oxidative dyes. To dye human or animal hair using oxidative dye technology, the hair is usually treated with a mixture of oxidative-type hair dyeing agents and with an oxidizing agent. Hydrogen peroxide is the oxidizing agent that is commonly used. However, in addition to oxidizing oxidative dyeing agents, treatment with hydrogen peroxide can also solubilize and discolor the colored elanine component of hair, which can lead to undesirable hair qualities, such as brittleness and damage to hair. . This is partly due to the conditions of the conventional peroxide treatment, as part of the hair dyeing process, when performed at a higher pH (>; pH 9) prolonged exposure (from 10 to 60 minutes) and a relatively high concentration of oxidant concentration (between about 20% and about 40% oxygen volume, ie, about 6-12% by weight) in order to supply an effective oxidation of the dye. Oxidative hair coloring or staining agents and peroxygen oxidizing agents can be used to deliver a variety of colors to the hair. However, substantial improvements are needed in the area of color saturation, color development, accurate initial color consistency, improved wash color fastness, improved hair condition and hair damage levels. There is therefore a need for oxidative coloring or dyeing hair compositions that effectively dye hair but prevent or reduce hair damage, which can color the hair effectively and prevent or reduce irritation and / or staining of hair. the skin of the user. Typically, hair dyeing compositions containing oxidative hair coloring agents are formulated at a high pH (from about pH 9 to about pH 12) and commonly contain, in addition to the oxidative dyeing agents and an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent. , peroxide activating agents and a variety of cosmetic agents, colorants and peroxygen oxidants, additional stabilizers. It is known that improved oxidation of the oxidative coloring agent for dyeing hair can be achieved which can be achieved by the use of a hair swelling agent (HSA). This HSA intensifies the oxidation and coloring processes by causing the hair fibers to swell in order to help the diffusion of the peroxygen oxidizing agent and the oxidative coloring agent into the hair and allowing a faster and deeper oxidation of the dye and a faster and deeper hair coloring. A common HSA is an aqueous (alkaline) solution containing a source of ammonia, for example ammonium hydroxide. However, ammonium can cause skin irritation and at the same time has an undesirable odor and can cause tear-jerking effects. Therefore, it would be desirable to develop a hair dye composition having desirable odor characteristics, comprising oxidative-type hair dyeing agents that provide improved hair coloring benefits and / or that provide a very fast coloration. without the need for an HSA. It has now been found that the combination of inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents with one or more oxidative hair coloring agents at a pH lower than the internal pH of the hair, between about pH 1 and about pH 6, and optionally, certain additional oxidizing agents, in the hair dyeing compositions can provide an excellent color to the hair in combination with a fastness to washing and better hair color over time, a desirable color saturation and liveliness attributes, reduced hair damage reduced irritation of hair the skin, stained skin and a more efficient dye. In addition, it has been found that the efficiency of color development (color change) with the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents and with the particular oxidative coloring agents of the present invention is improved at low pH conditions according to the present invention. Furthermore, it has been found that compositions for dyeing hair according to this invention can provide these excellent attributes of hair dyeing with minimal damage, at a low pH (from about 1 to 6). It is an object of the present invention to provide hair dye compositions that are used at low pH and that provide the combination of improved attributes for hair dyeing such as long-lasting color (reduced fading), initial color generation., greater color absorption and color consistency through hair types. The hair types defined here means that the hair varies according to age and condition, ie untreated virgin hair, gray hair, permanently treated hair, bleached hair, etc. It is a further object of the present invention to provide low pH hair dye compositions having reduced levels of skin irritation and / or less skin spots against conventional high pH systems and which impart minimal damage to the skin. hair fibers and a reduced staining to the skin, in combination with an acceptable odor. Still another object of the present invention is to provide low pH hair staining compositions exhibiting improved efficiency (better color development). The development of color as referred to herein refers to the hair color change expressed in terms of Delta E, as defined in the Experimental section below. Still another object of the present invention is to provide dyeing compositions that reduce damage to the skin and / or hair and that can provide equivalent color development (against conventional high pH systems) in combination with wash color fastness and consistency. of color while using less colorant and / or less oxidizing agent. It has been found that the above objects can be met with low pH hair coloring compositions according to the present invention. In addition, conventional high pH hair dyeing compositions typically comprise at least two separately packaged components, which are generally: oxidizing agent (at low pH) and oxidative (high pH) hair dyeing agents. These components packaged separately are combined at a high pH just before being applied to the hair. This combination step can be difficult to handle and inconvenient for the user. Typically conventional dyeing compositions, comprising oxidizing agent and oxidative dyeing agent, need to be used very soon afterP835 from which they combine due to the degradation of resulting staining composition. In this way, staining compositions that are combined in excess are discarded after the application of the required amount to the hair. It has been found that the oxidant or oxidants and dyes of the present invention can be combined in a low pH and a single package with improved stability with respect to conventional high-pH, oxidative dye systems. The low pH staining compositions which are in a single package, of this invention, are suitable for use in a multi-application format (ie the consumer can use a single package for several color applications over time). It has now been found that at a low pH, both the oxidizing agent and the oxidative staining agents are stable over time and can be stored as they are. In this way, another object of the present invention is to provide hair dyeing compositions in a single package, which are fast acting, simple to use and also reusable. Another object of the present invention is to provide hair dyeing compositions comprising stable agents or agents packaged separately, of oxidant and of oxidative dyeing agent, which remain stable at low pH both when stored individually and when mixed. All percentages are given by weight of the final compositions in the form intended for use unless otherwise specified.
SPMARK OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is a hair dyeing composition suitable for the treatment of human or animal hair. According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a hair dye composition comprising: (a) from about 0.0003 mole (per lOOg of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per lOOg of composition) of an oxidizing agent of inorganic peroxygen; and (b) an oxidative hair coloring agent: wherein the pH of each of (a) t (b) is in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and ( b) has a pH in the range of about 1 and about 6. It should be understood that the percentages by weight of the components of the composition are expressed herein in P835 terms of the total composition and include the composition in the form of the target use. According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided: A method for dyeing the hair wherein the hair dye mixture is present in a single container and applied directly to the hair and wherein the hair dye mixture comprises: (a) from about 0.0003 moles (per lOOg of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 10Og of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent; and (b) an oxidative hair coloring agent: wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and ( b) has a pH in the range of about 1 to about 6. According to yet another aspect of the present invention there is provided: A method for dyeing the hair wherein the hair dye composition is present as separately packaged components (a ) and (b), wherein the hair staining composition comprises: (a) from about 0.0003 moles (per lOOg of P835 composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per lOOg of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent wherein the pH of (a) is in the range of about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidative hair dyeing agent wherein the pH of (b) is in the range of about 1 to about 6: wherein each of (a) and (b) are stable at the pH values that are in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) is stable over time and has a pH in the range of about 1 and about 6. According to the further subject of the present invention there is provided a hair coloring composition comprising: (a) an agent inorganic peroxygen oxidant; and (b) an oxidative hair coloring agent; wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of about 1 to about 6 wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) has a pH in the range of about 1 to about 6. , where (a) and (b) are in the destination use form, and where the molar level of (a) is approximately from 0.0003 moles (per P835 lOOg of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per lOOg of composition).
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In the sense used herein, "hair" to be treated can refer to "live" hair, that is to say in a living body or it can be "non-living" hair, that is to say in a wig, hairpiece or other aggregation of hair. non-living fibers, for example those used in textiles and fabrics. SE mammal hair is preferred, preferably human hair. However, wool fibers, animal skins and other fibers containing melanin are suitable as substrates for the compositions according to the present invention. In the sense used herein the term "hair dye composition" is used in the broad sense in that it is intended to encompass compositions containing the present combinations of a low pH (from about 1 to about 6) mixture of an agent dye oxidant based on inorganic peroxygen and an oxidative coloring agent. In addition, it is also intended to include complex compositions containing other components that may or may not be active ingredients. Therefore, the term "dye composition or hair dyeing" is intended to be applied to compositions containing, in addition to an agent mixture.
P835 active oxidant and oxidative staining agents, other components, such as, for example, oxidizing auxiliaries, sequestrants, stabilizers, thickeners, pH regulators, postmen, surfactants, solvents, antioxidants, polymers, non-oxidative dyes and conditioners. As discussed above, the hair dyeing compositions according to this invention comprise from about 0.0003 mole (per lOOg of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per lOOg of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen-based oxidizing agent (a ), in combination with coloring agent or oxidative hair dye (b) wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the pH of the mixture The combination of (a) and (b) is in the range of about 1 to about 6. Preferably, the pH of either (a) or (b) is in the range of from about 1.5 to about 5.8, preferably from 1.8 to 5.5, still more preferably from about 2 to about 5 and especially from about 3.5 to about 4.5 and wherein the combined mixture from (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1.5 to about 5.8, preferably from 1.8 to 5.5, still more preferably from about 2 to about 5 and especially from about 3.5 to P835 approximately 4.5. In addition to the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent, the compositions may optionally (among other ingredients) comprise a preformed organic peroxyacid oxidizing agent. The organic peroxyacid in the sense "agui" used is intended to cover any organic peroxyacid material that can act either alone or in combination with a peroxygen oxidizing agent to oxidize dye precursors.
Dye Oxidation Processes and. Hair Coloring It is understood by those familiar with the art to successfully color human or animal hair with oxidative dyes in general, it is necessary to treat the hair with a mixture of oxidizing agent or oxidative coloring agent of the hair. As already mentioned before, the most common oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide has a pKa in the range of about 11.2 to about 11.6 and as such is generally used as a dye oxidizing agent at pHs in the range of about 9 to about 12. Surprisingly, it has been found today that the improved color development is observed in combination with a better color fastness compared to washing, in low pH oxidative systems according to the present invention at pHs in the range of about P835 about pH 1 to about pH 6, preferably from pH 1.5 to about pH 5.8, more preferably from pH 1.8 to about pH 5.5, more preferably from pH 2 to about pH 5 and especially from about pH 3.5 to about pH 4.5 Inorganic Oxidizing Agents The compositions of the invention comprise as an essential characteristic at least one inorganic oxidizing agent (hereinafter referred to as "inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent"). The inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent must be safe and effective for use in the compositions herein. Preferably, the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents suitable for use herein will be soluble in the compositions according to the present invention when they are in liquid form or in the form intended for use. Preferably, the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents suitable for use herein will be soluble in water. Water-soluble oxidizing agents as defined herein refer to agents having a solubility in a degree of about 10 g in 100 ml of deionized water at 25 ° C ("Chemistry" CE Mortimer, 5th Edn. P277). Inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents P835 useful herein are in general inorganic peroxygen materials capable of providing peroxide in an aqueous solution. Inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents are well known in the art and include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as for example sodium periodate, sodium perbromate and sodium peroxide, and inorganic salt perhydrate oxidizing compounds, for example alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perfosphates, persilicates, persulfates and the like. These inorganic salts of perhydrate can be incorporated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates, etc. Mixtures of two or more of these inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents may be useful if desired. While the iodates and alkali metal bromates are suitable for use herein, bromates are preferred. The use in the compositions according to the present invention of hydrogen peroxide is to a large extent preferred. It has been found that, under the conditions of low pH according to the present invention, it is possible to provide both improved initial color development and color consistency, color fastness to washing and color intensity against high pH systems of type conventional (using equivalent levels of peroxide and dyes) and also color equivalent development (a P835 of the total color administered to the hair (Delta E) from a mixture of (a) and (b) at the first application.
Oxidizing Agents The compositions of the invention comprise as an essential characteristic at least one oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agent must be safe and effective for use in the compositions herein. Preferably, suitable oxidizing agents that are used herein will be soluble in the compositions according to the present invention, when in liquid form and / or in the form intended for use. Preferably, suitable oxidizing agents that are used herein will be soluble in water. The water-soluble oxidizing agents defined herein refer to agents having a solubility in the degree of about 10Og in 10000ml of deionized water at 25 ° C ("Chemistry" CE Mortimer, 5th Edn., P277). Suitable oxidizing agents that are used herein are selected from inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents, preformed organic peroxyacid oxidizing agents and organic peroxide oxidizing agents or mixtures thereof.
P835 0.08 moles, more preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.06 moles, even more preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.04 moles, more preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.03 moles, especially from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.02 moles and more specifically from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.015 moles (per lOOg of the composition). In the preferred compositions according to the present invention, the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent is present at a level of from about 0.01% to less than about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5%, most preferably about 0.01% to about 2%, even more preferably from about 0.01% to about 1%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about 0.8%, especially from 0.01% to about 0.55% and especially about 0.01% to about 0.5% by weight of the composition.
Preformed organic peroxyacid The compositions according to this invention P835 may optionally contain, in addition to the inorganic peroxy acid oxidizing agent, one or more preformed organic peroxyacid oxidizing agents. The optional, additional, and suitable organic peroxyacid oxidizing agents that are used in the dye or dye compositions of the invention in the following formula: R - C (O) OOH wherein R is selected from branched straight, substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated alkenyl, aryl, or straight-chain alkaryl groups of 1 to 14 carbon atoms. One class of suitable organic peroxyacid compounds that are used herein are the amide substituted compounds of the following general formula: R1-C-N-R2-C-OOH R1-N-C-R2-C-OH II I II I II II O R O or O O wherein R1 is an alkyl or alkaryl group, or an aryl group, having 1 to 14 carbon atoms. R2 is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl group, or an aryl group, having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, and R5 is H or P835 a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl group, or an aryl group, having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. An amide-substituted organic peroxyacid compound of this type is disclosed in EP-A-0,170,386. Other suitable organic peroxyacid oxidizing agents include peracetic, pernanoic, nonilamidoperoxycarpoic (NAPCA), perbenzoic, perbenzoic, -chloroperbenzoic, di-peroxy-isophthalic, mono-peroxyphalic, peroxylauric, hexanesulfonyl peroxy propionic, N, N-phthaloylamino peroxycaproic, monoper succinic acid , nonanoyloxybenzoic acid, dodecanediolyl-monoperoxybenzoic acid, peroxyadipic acid nonyl amide, diacyl and tetraacylperoxides, especially diperoxydecanedioic acid, diperoxytetradecanedioic acid and deoxyhexadecanedioic acid and derivatives thereof. Mono and diperazelaic acid, mono and diperbrasyl acid and N-phthaloylaminoperoxycaproic acid and derivatives thereof are also used here. The oxidizing agents of preformed organic peroxyacids must be safe and effective in their use in the compositions. Preferably, the preformed organic peroxyacid oxidizing agents to be used herein will be soluble in the compositions according to the present invention when they are in the liquid form and in the form they are intended to be used. Preferably, the P835 Peroxyacid oxidizing agents suitable for use herein will be soluble in water. Preformed organic peroxyacid oxidizing agents which are soluble in water are herein defined as agents having a solubility in the range of about 10Og in lOOO in deionized water to 252C ("Chemistry" CE Mortimer, 5th Edn. P277). Preferred peroxyacid materials suitable for use herein are selected from peracetic and pernanoic acid and mixtures thereof. The preformed organic peroxyacid oxidizing agent, when present, is present at a molar level of about 0.0001 mole to about 0.1 mole (per lOOg of the composition), more preferably from about 0.001 mole to about 0.05 mole, more preferably about 0.003 moles to about 0.04 moles and especially about 0.004 to about 0.03 moles per 100g of the hair dye composition. The preformed organic peroxyacid oxidizing agent, when present, is preferably present at a level of from about 0.01% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 6%, still more preferably from about 0.2% to about P835 4%, and especially from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight of the hair dye composition. The weight ratio of the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent to the preformed peroxyorganic acid is preferably in the range of about 0.0125: 1 to about 500: 1, more preferably from 0.0125: 1 to about 50: 1. The addition of the optional inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents and optional preformed organic peroxyacidizing agents suitable for use herein in the compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise additional organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, peroxide melanin and mixtures thereof. The level of peroxide, when present, is between about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably between about 0.01% to about 2%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 1.5% and still more preferably about 0.2% to about 1% of the composition.
Hair Coloring or Dyeing Agents The low pH hair coloring compositions of this invention include as an essential characteristic an oxidative hair coloring agent. These P835 oxidative coloring agents are used in combination with the peroxide-based oxidizing systems of the present invention to formulate permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanent or temporary low-pH hair dye compositions. Permanent hair dye compositions are defined herein as compositions that once applied to the hair are essentially resistant to washing. I-permanent hair dye compositions are defined herein as those that are substantially removed from the hair after 24 washes. The semi-permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are compositions that once applied to the hair are substantially removed from it after up to 10 washes. Temporary hair dye compositions defined herein are compositions that once applied to the hair are essentially removed from it after up to 2 washes. The different types of hair dye compositions can be formulated by specific combination of oxidants and / or dyes at different proportions and levels. Wiping, as described here, is the process by which hair color is removed from the hair over time during the normal hair-cleaning regime. Solidity versus washing as defined here, refers to P835 resistance to washing of dyed hair. The fastness to washing as described herein can be measured in terms of the relative color change in the dyed hair (Delta E) with respect to several washes (shampoo). The substantial removal of dye from the hair as defined herein refers to the color change in the dyed hair (Delta E) which is greater than about 2 after 10 washes. The concentration of each hair oxidative coloring agent in the low pH coloring compositions according to the invention is from about 0.001% to about 3% by weight and preferably from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight. The total combined level of the hair oxidative coloring agents in the compositions according to the invention is from about 0.001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight. Typically, conventional hair dye compositions have a total level of oxidative coloring agent present in the composition in the range of about 0.2% to about 3.5% by weight. In As a result, compositions according to the invention can exhibit improved hair dyeing attributes such as initial color development and initial color consistency in combination with improved fastness to washing over time, when compared to systems conventional high pH that have similar levels of dye. The color consistency, in the sense used here, refers both to the relative ability to predict the initial color and to the improved color retention over time through different hair types. The effectiveness of oxidative dyes is improved at a low pH so that the compositions of the present invention are valuable in providing colors with a very high intensity (dark colors) with reduced levels of dye. In particular, good hair dye results in combination with color development (against high pH systems) can be achieved using the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents of the present invention and substantially less coloring against high hair coloring compositions. pH of conventional type. Therefore, according to a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided a dye composition comprising: P835 (a) from about 0.0003 mole (per lOOg of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per lOOg of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent; and (b) an oxidative hair coloring agent; Y (c) a suitable diluent to be applied to the hair; wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the pH of the composition is in the range of about 1 to about 6. As described above, has found that the combination of inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents with oxidative hair coloring agents at a low pH is valuable for providing excellent attributes of hair ink in combination with reduced levels of hair damage, skin irritation and staining of the hair. skin, in combination with an improved odor profile (with respect to conventional high pH compositions) An additional benefit of the low pH colorations according to this invention is that there are reduced levels of skin staining with these compositions in relation to what occurs with conventional high pH compositions. Therefore, according to yet another aspect P835 of the present invention, there is provided a hair coloring composition capable of providing a light brown to light brown color having 40% gray, comprising: (a) from about 0.0003 moles (per lOOg of composition) unless of about 0.09 moles (per lOOg of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent; and (b) an oxidative hair coloring agent; and (c) a suitable diluent to be applied to the hair; wherein the pH of components (a) and (b) is, for each, in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the pH of the composition is in the range of between about 1 and about 6 and in where the change in the level of staining of the skin after the application of the product (Delta E) is less than about 4, preferably less than about 3, less preferred about 2.7. Light brown hair that has 430% gray coverage is defined in terms of the L, a, b values with an "L" value in the range of between 35 to about 37, and an "a" value in the range of about 4.5 to about 5.5 and a "b" value in the range of about 11.5 to about 12.7.
P835 Without being limited by any particular theory, it is considered that these improvements (in relation to less irritation and / or staining of the skin) result from the combination of (a) reduced levels of dyes and low pH; (b) reduction of paraphenyl diamine (PPD) by contact sensitization down pH (high levels of PPD have been shown to develop contact sensitization at high pH but not at low pH); (c) elimination of the formation of nitrobenzene contact sensitizers (which may occur in high pH compositions); (d) reduced levels of skin staining at low pH against those obtained at high pH, and; (e) reduction of skin irritation and negative odors as a result of ammonia removal and the use of alternative oxidizing agents in low pH dyeing compositions, according to the present invention.
Oxidative Hair Coloring Processes Any hair oxidative coloring agent can be used in the compositions of the present invention. Typically, without intending to be limited thereby, the hair oxidative coloring agents consist essentially of at least two components, collectively referred to as dye-forming intermediates (or precursors). The P835 dye-forming intermediates can react in the presence of a suitable oxidant to form a suitable molecule. The dye-forming intermediates used in oxidative dyes for hair include: aromatic diamines, amonophenols, various heterocyclics, phenols, naphthols and their derivatives. These dye-forming intermediates can be broadly classified as: primary intermediates and secondary intermediates. Primary intermediates, which are also known as oxidative dye precursors, are chemical compounds that have been activated by oxidation and then react with each other and / or with copulants to form colored dye complexes. Secondary intermediates, also known as couplers or color modifiers, are generally colorless molecules that can form colors in the presence of activated precursors / primary intermediates, and are used with other intermediates to generate specific color effects or to stabilize the color. Suitable primary intermediates which are used in the compositions and processes herein include: aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, amino phenols and derivatives of these aromatic compounds (for example N-substituted derivatives of the amines and ethers of P835 phenols). These primary intermediates are generally colorless molecules prior to oxidation. Although it is not desired to be limited by any particular theory, it is proposed here that the processes by which color is generated from primary intermediates and secondary coupling compounds generally includes a step-by-step sequence by which the The primary intermediate can be activated (by oxidation), and then linked with a copulant to give a colored, conjugated, dimeric species, which in turn can bind with another "activated" primary intermediate to produce a colored, conjugated, trimeric molecule.
Chemistry of Oxidative Hair Coloration Through pH While not wishing to be limited to any particular theory, it is generally understood that conventional oxidative dyeing typically occurs between oxidative precursor molecules, oxidative coupling molecules and an agent peroxygen oxidant at a high pH (8 to 10). Typical precursors include 1,4-disubstituted benzene derivatives and typical couplers including 1,2 or 1,3-disubstituted benzene derivatives.
P835 It is generally accepted that the pH within the hair strand, human, is between pH 5.5 to pH 6 (C.R.
Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 2nd, De. Pl57), and that the hair has a buffering capacity at this pH range. Surprisingly, it has been found that the oxidative coloring of the hair at a pH of 6 or less with the oxidizing agents, at a molar level of between about 0.000294 moles (per lOOg of composition) to less than about 0.0883 moles (per lOOg of composition) , and an oxidative hair coloring agent, is valuable for providing an excellent initial color to the hair in combination with an improved color and a color fastness with respect to washing with the course of time, a desirable saturation of the color and attributes of vitality, lower damage to the hair, less irritation to the skin and less staining of the skin as well as a more efficient dyeing. In addition, it has been found that the color development efficiency (ie, greater color change) from the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents and the oxidative coloring agents for the hair of the present invention, improves under a low pH condition. according to the present invention. In addition, it has been found that hair dye compositions at low pH according to the invention can provide these excellent attributes P835 hair coloring with a minimum of damage to it. It has been found that at pH levels lower than 6, preferably pH from 1.5 to 5.8, more preferably between pH 1.8 to 5.5, and still more preferably between pH2 and pH5 and especially between pH 3.5 and pH 4.5, are still achieved more improvements in color development.
Dye Precursors or Oxidative Dye In general terms, the primary intermediates of oxidative dye include those monomeric materials that, during oxidation, form oligomers or polymers that have extended conjugated systems of electrons in their molecular structure. Due to the new electronic structure, the oligomers and polymers exhibit a shift in their electronic spectra towards the visible range and appear colored. For example, oxidative primary intermediates capable of forming colored polymers include materials such as aniline, which have a single functional group, and which, during oxidation, form a series of conjugated imines and trimers, quinoid dimers, etc., which vary in color from green to black. Compounds such as p-phenylenediamine, which has two functional groups, are capable of oxidative polymerization to provide high molecular weight colored materials having a high molecular weight.
P835 extended colored electron system. The oxidative dyes known in the art can be used in low pH compositions according to the present invention. A representative list of primary intermediaries and secondary couplers suitable for use herein are found in Sagarin, "Cosmetic Science and Technology". Interscience, Special De. Vol. 2 pages 308-310. It is understood that the primary intermediaries detailed below are given only by way of examples and are not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein. Typical aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, amino-phenols and derivatives thereof, which are described above as primary intermediates may also have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, for example halogen, aldehyde, carboxylic acid, nitro, sulfonic acid and groups of substituted and unsubstituted hydrocarbons, as well as other substituents of amino nitrogen and phenolic oxygen, for example substituted and unsubstituted alkyl and aryl groups. Examples of aromatic diamines, amino phenols, polyhydric phenols and suitable derivatives thereof, respectively, are compounds having the following general formulas (I), (II) and (III): OR wherein Y is hydrogen, halogen, (eg, fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), nitro, amino, hydroxyl.
-COOM or -S03M (wherein M is hydrogen or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or substituted ammonium wherein one or more hydrogen of the ammonium ion is replaced with alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyls of 1 to 3 carbon atoms), wherein R., R2, R3 and R. are the same or different from each other and are selected from the group consisting of P835 hydrogen, alkyl or alkenyl of Ct to C4 and aryl, alkaryl or alkenyl of C6 to C9, and R5 is hydrogen, unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or alkenyl of Cx to C4, wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Y, previously or substituted or unsubstituted aryl, alkeryl or arachyl of C6 to C9, wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Y, above. As the precursors of formula (I) are amines, these can be used here in the form of peroxide-compatible salts, as mentioned, wherein X represents peroxide-compatible anions of the type detailed above. The general formula of the salt indicated should be understood to encompass those salts having mono, di and tri-negative anions. Specific examples of the formula (I) are: o-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-iodo-p-phenylenediamine, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro -p-phenylenediamine, 1,3,5-triaminobenzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-diaminobenzoic acid, sodium 2,4-diaminobenzoate, calcium 2,4-diaminobenzoate, di-2,4-diaminobenzoate Ammonium 2,4-diaminobenzoate, Trimethylamine 4-diaminobenzoate, Tri- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium 2,4-diaminobenzoate, Diaminobenzaldehyde 2,4-carbonate carbonate, 2,4-diaminobenzenesulfonic acid 2,4-diabenzene sulfonate, potassium, N, N-diisopropyl-p-phenylenediamine bicarbonate, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N '- (2-propenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-pheny1-p-phenylenediamine, N -phenyl-N-benzyl-p-phenylenediane, N-ethyl-N '- (3-ethylphenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-toluenediamine, 2-ethyl-p-phenyl-diamine, 2- (2-bromoethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine laurate, 4- (2,5-diaminophenyl) b enzaldehyde, 2-benzyl-p-phenylenediamine acetate, 2- (4-nitrobenzyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (4-methylphenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -5-methylbenzoic acid , metroxiparaphenylenediamine, dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethylpara-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-5-methoxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-methyl-5-methoxy-para-phenylenediamine, 3-methyl-4-amino -N, N-diethylaniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 3-methyl-4-amino-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) aniline, 3-chloro-4-amino- N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) aniline, 4-amino-N-ethyl-N- (carbamethyl) aniline, 3-metuk-4-amino-N-ethyl-N- (carbamethyl) aniline, 4-amino- N-ethyl- (β-piperidonoethyl) aniline, 3-methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl- (β-piperidonoethyl) aniline, 4-amino-N-ethyl-N- (β-morpholinoethyl) aniline, 3-methyl -4-amino-N-ethyl-N- (β-mesylaminoethyl) niline, 4-amino-N-ethyl-N- (β-sulfoethyl) aniline, 3-methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl-N- ( β-sulfoethyl) aniline, N- (4-aminophenyl) morpholine, N- (4- P835 aminophenyl) piperidine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine sulfate. In highly preferred compositions according to the present invention, the materials having the general formulas (la) and (lb) are preferred except where Rx = R2 = Me, Et NH-. except where Rx = R2 = Me where Y is hydrogen, halogen, (eg, fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), nitro, amino, hydroxyl.
P835 O II -CH -COOM or -S03M (wherein M is hydrogen or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or substituted ammonium wherein one or more hydrogen of the ammonium ion is replaced with hydroxyalkyl or alkyl radicals of 1 to 3 carbon atoms), wherein R-, R2, R3 and R4 are the same or different from each other and are selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, alkyl or alkenyl C. to C4 and aryl, C6 to C9 alkaryl or aralkyl, and R5 is substituted or unsubstituted hydrogen, alkyl or alkenyl C1 to C4, wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Y, above or aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl, substituted or unsubstituted, C6 to C9, wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Y above. Since the precursors of formula (I) are amines, these can be used here in the form of peroxide-compatible salts, as already mentioned, wherein X represents peroxide-compatible anions of the type detailed above. The general formula of the salt indicated should be understood to encompass those salts having mono-, di- and tri-negative anions.
P835 or where X and Y are the same as in the formula (I), Rj. and R2 may be the same or different from each other and are the same as in formula (I). R5 is the same as in the formula (I) and R6 is hydrogen or alkenyl or substituted or unsubstituted alkyl of Cx to C4, wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Y in the formula (I). Specific examples of compounds of the formula (II) are: P835 o-aminophenol, m-aminophenol, p-aminophenol, 2-iodo-p-aminophenol, 2-nitro-p-aminophenol, 3,4-dihydroxyaniline, 3,4-diaminophenol, chloroacetate, 2-hydroxy-4-acid aminobenzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzaldehyde, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, N, N-diisopropyl-p-aminophenol, N-methyl-N- (1-propenyl) -p-aminophenol, N-phenylene sulfate -N-benzi1-p-aminophenol, N-methyl-N- (3-ethylphenyl) -p-aminophenol, 2-nitro-5-ethyl-p-aminophenol, 2-nitro-5- (2-bromoethyl) -p -aminophenol, (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) acetaldehyde, 2-methyl-p-aminophenyl, (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) acetic acid, 3- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -1-propene, 3- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -2-chloro-1-propene, 2-phenyl-p-aminophenol palmitate, 2- (4-nitrophenyl) -p-aminophenol, 2-benzyl-p-aminophenol, 2 -benzyl-p-aminophenol, 2- (4-chlorobenzyl-p-aminophenol perchlorate, 2- (4-methylphenyl) -p-aminophenol, 2- (2-amino-4-methylphenyl) -p-aminophenol, p-methoxyaniline , 2-bromoethyl-4-aminophenyl ether phosphate, 2-nitroethyl-4-aminophenyl bromide ether, 2-aminoethyl-4-aminophenyl ether, 2-hydroxyethyl-4-aminophenyl ether, (4-aminophenoxy) acetaldehyde, (4-aminophenoxy) acetic acid, (4-aminophenoxy) methanesulfonic acid, 1-propenyl isobutyrate ether 4-aminophenyl, (2-chloro) -l-propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether, (2-nitro) -l-propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether, (2-amino) -propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether, (2-hydroxy) -1-propeny1-4-aminophenyl ether, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 3- P835 methyl-4-aminophenol, 2-chloro-4-aminophenol, 3-chloro-4-aminophenol, 2,6-dimethyl-4-aminophenol, 3,5-dimethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,3-dimethyl-4 -aminophenol, 2,5-dimethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 3-hydroxymethyl-4-a-inophenol. According to the present invention, the compounds having the formula la are not preferred: wherein: Rt is alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, carboxyalkyl or aminoalkyl; R2 is hydrogen, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl; R3 and R5 are H or -OR, wherein R is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl substituent; R4 is H, alkyl or NHR1; R6 is H, alkyl, -OR or NHR '; R 'is H, alkyl, hydroxyalkyl: with the proviso that a) only one of R4 and R6 are NHR1; b) R3 and -OR .. both are methoxy, when R2, R5 and R6 are H and R4 is NH2; c) either of R3 or R4 or R5 or R6 is H; d) R3, R4 and R5 are not all H when R6 is NH2, R2 is H and R ± is methyl; e) if R1 is ethyl and R2, R3, R4 and R6 are H, R4 is not NH2; f) if ^ is P835 carboxyalkyl or aminoalkyl, R4 is NHR ' Specific examples of the compounds of the formula (III) are: o-hydroxyphenol (catechol), m-hydroxyphenol (resorcinol), p-hydroxyphenol (hydroquinone), 4-methoxyphenol, 2-methoxyphenol, 4- (2-chloroethoxy) phenol, 4- (2-propenoxy) phenol, 4- (3-chloro-2-propenoxy) phenol, 2-chloro-4-hydroxyphenol (2-chlorohydroquinone), 2-nitro-4-hydroxyphenol (2-nitrohydroquinone), 2-amino-4-hydroxyphenol, 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene (pyrogallol), 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 3-ethyl-4-hydroxyphenol, 3- ( 2-nitroethyl) -4-hydroxyphenol, 3- (2-propenyl) -4-hydroxyphenol, 3- (3-chloro-2-propenyl) -4-hydroxyphenol, 2-phenyl-4-hydroxyphenol, 2- (4- chlorophenyl) -4-hydroxyphenol, 2-benzyl-4-hydroxyphenol, 2- (2-nitrophenyl) -4-hydroxyphenol, 2- (2-methylphenyl) -4-hydroxyphenol, 2- (2-methyl-4-chlorophenyl) -4- P835 hydroxyphenol, 3-methoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 2-methoxy-4- (1-propeny1) phenol, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, 2,5-dimethoxyaniline, 2-methylresorcinol, alpha naphthol and salts of the same. In the preferred compositions herein the following compounds, having the general formula (III) are not included: NH- Secondary copulation compounds (color modifiers) such as those detailed below, are preferably used together with the primary intermediates herein and are thought to interpose themselves in the colored polymers during their formation and to cause displacements in the electronic spectra thereof. , resulting in slight changes in color. The secondary coupling compounds that are P835 suitable for inclusion in the dyeing compositions and processes of the present invention described above, include certain aromatic amines and phenols and derivatives thereof which do not produce a single color, but modify the color, tone or intensity of the colors developed by the primary oxidized dye intermediates. Certain aromatic amines and phenolic compounds and derivatives thereof include some aromatic diamines and polyhydric phenols of the types described by formulas (I), (a), (Ib), (II) and (III) above, but which are well known in the art as not suitable primary intermediates, and herein are considered as suitable couplers. Polyhydric alcohols are also useful for use as copulants herein. The aromatic amines and phenols and derivatives that are described above as copulators may also have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, i.e. halogen, aldehyde, carboxylic acid, nitro, sulfonyl and substituted or unsubstituted by hydrocarbon groups, as well as additional substituents in the amino nitrogen or in the phenolic oxygen, for example substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or aryl groups. Once again, the peroxide-compatible salts thereof are suitable for use herein. Examples of aromatic amines, phenols and P835 derivatives thereof are compounds of the following general formulas (IV) and (V): 0 wherein Z is hydrogen, C1 and C3 alkyl, halogen (for example fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine) nitro, P835 -COOM or S03M, (wherein M is hydrogen or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or substituted ammonium wherein one or more ammonium ion hydrogens are replaced with an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical of 1 to 3 carbon atoms), where R1 and R. are the same or different and are selected from the group consisting of C to C4 alkyl or alkenyl and C6 to C9 aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl, and R7 is hydrogen. Alkyl or substituted or unsubstituted alkenyl of C? to C4, wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Z above or aryl, alkaryl or substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl from C6 to C9, wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Z above and wherein X is as defined in the formula (I). Specific examples of the compounds of the formula (IV) are: aniline, p-chloroaniline, p-fluoroaniline, p-nitroaniline, p-aminobenzaldehyde, p-aminobenzoic acid, sodium p-aminobenzoate, lithium p-aminobenzoate, calcium-p-aminobenzoate, ammonium p-aminobenzoate, trimethylammonium p-aminobenzoate, tri (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, potassium p-aminobenzenesulfonate, N-methylaniline, N-propyl-N -phenylaniline, N-methyl-N-2-propenylaniline, N-benzilaniline, N- (2-ethylphenyl) aniline, 4-methylaniline, 4- (2-bromoethyl) aniline, 2- (2- P835 nitroethyl) aniline, (4-aminophenyl) acetaldehyde, (4-aminophenyl) acetic acid, 4- (2-propenyl) niline acetate, 4- (3-bro or-2-propeni1) aniline, 4-phenylalanine chloroacetate , 4- (3-chlorophenyl) aniline, 4-benzilaniline, 4- (4-iodobenzyl) aniline, 4- (3-ethylphenyl) aniline, 4- (2-chloro-4-ethylphenyl) aniline. wherein Z and R. are defined as the formula (IV) and R8 is hydrogen or alkenyl or substituted or unsubstituted alkyl of C1 to C4, wherein the substituents are selected from those defined as Z in the formula (IV). Specific examples of the compounds of the formula (V) are: phenol, p-chlorophenol, p-nitrophenol, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, p-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, ethylphenyl ether, 2-chloroethylphenyl ether, 2-nitroethylphenyl ether, phenoxyacetaldehyde, phenoxyacetic acid, 3-phenoxy-1-propene, 3-phenoxy-2-nitro-1-propene, 3-phenoxy-2-bromo-1- P835 propene, 4-propylphenol, 4- (3-bromopropyl) phenol, 2- (2-nitroethyl) phenol, (4-hydroxyphenyl) acetaldehyde, (4-hydroxyphenyl) acetic acid, 4- (2-propenyl) phenol, -phenylphenol, 4-benzylphenol, 4- (3-fluoro-2-propeni1) phenol, 4- (4-chlorobenzyl) phenol, 4- (3-ethylphenyl) phenol, 4- (2-chloro-3-ethylphenyl) phenol , 2,5-xylenol, 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-hydroxy-5-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, tetraaminopyrimidine, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 1,2,4-trihydroxy-5- ( Cx to C6 alkyl) benzene.1, 2,3-trihydroxybenzene, 4-aminoresorcinol, 1,2-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-1,4-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4-methoxyphenol, 2,4-diaminophenol, 3 -methoxy-l, 2-dihydroxybenzene, 1,4-dihydroxy-2- (N, N-diethylamino) benzene, 2,5-diamino-4-methoxy-l-hydroxybenzene, 4,6-dimethoxy-3-amino- l-hydroxybenzene, 2,6-dimethyl-4- [N- (p-hydroxyphenyl) amino] -1-hydroxybenzene, 1,5-diamino-2-methyl-4- [N- (p-hydroxyphenyl) amino] benzene and you come out of them. In the preferred preferred compositions that are used herein, the following combinations of the primary and coupling intermediates are excluded: P835 wherein R and R2 are not H, with combination with an m-α inophenol, resorcinol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol and mixtures thereof. Additional primary intermediates suitable for use herein include catechol species and in particular the "dopa" catechol species that include dopa itself as well as homologs, analogs and DOPA derivatives. Examples of suitable catechol species include cysteinyl dopa, alpha alkyl dopa having 1 to 4, preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, epinephrine and dopa alkyl esters having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. The general suitable catechols are represented by the following formula (VI): P835 wherein R, R2 and R3, which may be the same or different, are electron acceptor or donor substituents selected from H, lower alkyl (C ..- C6), OH, OR, COOR, NHCOR, CN, COOH, Halogen, N02, CF3, S03H or NR4R5, provided that only one of R1, R2 or R3 can be CN, COOH, halogen, N02, CF3 or S03H: R4 and Rs, which may be the same or different, are H, lower alkyl ( C.-C6) or substituted lower alkyl (C ..- C6) wherein the substituent may be OH, OR, NHCOR6, NHCONH2, NHC02R6, NHCSNH2, CN, COOH, S03H, S02NR6, S02R6 or C02R6; R6 is lower alkyl (C1-C6), phenyl lower hydroxyalkyl linked to the nitrogen with an alkylene, phenyl or phenyl chain substituted with the substituent defined as R. and R is C-^ -8 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl Cj.-C6. Also included here are oxidative hair dyeing agents of the general formula: P835 wherein Rx = substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring, tert butyl, etc .; R = substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring and the formula: wherein R = aminoalkyl, amidoalkyl, aminobenzene (substituted or unsubstituted), amidobenzene (substituted or unsubstituted), alkyl, substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring; R = substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring. The primary intermediates can be used here alone or in combination with other primary intermediates, and one or more can be used in combination with one or more couplers. The choice of primary and copulant intermedes will be determined by the color, tone or P835 intensity of coloring, whatever is desired. There are nineteen preferred primary and preferred couplers that can be used here, singly or in combination, to provide dyes having a variety of shades ranging from tan blond to black, these are: pyrogallol, resorcinol, p-toluenediamine, p phenylenediamine, o-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, o-aminophenol, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-nitrophenol, nitro-p-phenylendi mine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, m-aminophenol, 2-amino-3 -hydroxypyridine, 1-naphthol, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -phenylenediamine, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2-methyl resorcinol and 2,4-diaminoanisole. These can be used in the molecular form or in the form of salts compatible with peroxide, as mentioned above. The primary intermediates and coupling compounds mentioned above can be combined to provide a wide variety of colors to the hair. Hair colors can vary in both color depth and color intensity. As described above, the compositions according to the present invention are valuable in order to provide high intensity colors. The intensity of color, as defined herein, refers to the amount of color compound formed in the hair and retained by it. In general, P835 High intensity as defined here refers to dark or deep colors such as dark red, dark brown or black, etc. In accordance with the foregoing, it is possible to formulate hair colors of variable color intensity by adjusting the initial levels of each of the oxidative dye materials. For example, low intensity colors such as natural blond to light brown hair shades, generally comprise from about 0.001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2%, more preferably about 0.2. % to about 1% by weight of the dyeing compositions of total oxidative dyeing agents and can be achieved by the combination of primary intermediates such as 1,4-diamino-benzene, 2,5-diamino toluene, 2,5-diamino-anisole , 4-aminophenol, 2,5-diamino-benzyl alcohol and 2- (2 ', 5'-diamino) phenylethanol with couplers such as resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol or 4-chloro resorcinol. Similar combinations of the above primary intermediates with couplers, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol and 1,3-diamino-benzene derivatives such as for example 2,4-diamino-anisole at levels of about 0.5% to about 1 % of total dyeing agents, can lead to red colors of medium intensity. The P835 high intensity colors such as blue to violet blue hair tones can be produced by the combination of the above primary intermediates with copulators such as 1,3-diaminobenzene or its derivatives such as 2,5-diamino-toluene at levels of about 1% to about 6% by weight of the composition of the total tinsion agents. The colors for black hair can be obtained by combining the aforementioned primary intermediates with couplers such as 1,3-diaminobenzene or its derivatives. However, considerations have to be made against the physiological compatibility of para-amino phenol which is commonly used to impart red color to hair. Similarly, the physiological compatibility of some of the favored agents for the production of the black color, for example paraphenylenediamine (PPD), has resurfaced. There is therefore a need for oxidative hair dye compositions having an improved safety profile and in particular oxidative dye compositions that provide dark colors, i.e. high color intensity dyes, which have an improved safety profile. As discussed above, the low pH compositions of the present invention provide excellent attributes of hair dye in combination with reduced levels of damage to the hair.
P835 hair and staining and / or skin irritation. As such, the compositions of the present invention are valuable in providing improved condition attributes to the hair in combination with good initial color development and consistency and improved color fastness to washing over time, in addition to having reduced levels of damage to the hair and of irritation and / or staining to the skin.
Non-oxidizing dyes and. Other The hair coloring compositions of the present invention, in addition to the essential, oxidizing, hair coloring agents, may optionally include non-oxidizing and other dye materials. Optional non-oxidizing and other dyes suitable for use in hair coloring compositions and processes in accordance with the present invention include both semi-permanent, temporary and other dyes. Non-oxidizing dyes as defined herein include so-called "direct-acting dyes", metallic dyes, metal chelate dyes, fiber-reactive dyes and other synthetic and natural dyes. Several types of non-oxidizing dyes are detailed in: Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair '3rd Ed.
P835 by Clarence Robbis (pp 250-259); 'The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics'. Volume IV. 2nd Ed. Maison G.
From Navarre at chapter 45 by G.S. Kass (pp 841-920); 'Cosmetics: Science and Technology' 2 - Ed., vol. II Balsam Sagarin, chapter 23 by F.E. Wall (pp 279-343): The Science of Hair Care 'edited by C. Zviak, chapter 7 (pp 235-261) and' Hair Dyes'. J.C. Johnson.
Noyes Data Corp., Park Ridge, U.S.A. (1973), (pp 3-91 and 139). Direct-acting dyes that do not require an oxidizing effect in order to develop color are also referred to as hair dyes and have been known for a long time in the art. They are usually applied to the hair in a base matrix including surfactant material. Direct-acting dyes include nitro dyes such as the nitroamino-benzene or nitroaminophenol derivatives; dispersion dyes such as nitroarylamines, inoanthraquinones or azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, naphthoquinone dyes, basic dyes such as Acridine Orange C.l. 46005. Nitro dyes are added to the dyeing compositions to improve the color of the dye and to add aesthetic color, suitable to the dye mixture before application.
P835 Additional examples of direct-acting dyes include: the dyes of Arianor, basic coffee 17, C.l. (color index) - no. 12,251; basic red 76, C.l. - 12,245, basic coffee 16, C.l. - 12,250; basic yellow 57, C.l. - 12,719 and basic blue 99, C.l. - 56,059 and additional direct-acting dyes such as acid yellow 1, C.l. - 10,316 (D &C yellow No. 7); acid yellow 9, C.l. -13,015; basic violet C.l. -45-170; dispersed yellow 3, C.l. - 11,855, basic yellow 57, C.l. - 12,719; dispersed yellow 1, C.l. - 10,345; violet basic 1, C.l. - 42,535 basic violet 3, C.l. 42,555; greenish blue, C.l. 42090 (FD &C Blue No. 1); yellowish red, C.l. -14700 (FD &C red No. 4); yellow, C.l. 19140 (FD &C yellow No. 5), yellowish orange, C.l. 15985, (FD &C yellow No. 6); bluish green, C.l. 42053 (FD &C green No. 3); yellowish red, C.l. 16035 (FD &C red No. 40); bluish green, C.l. 61560 (D &C green No. 3); orange, C.l. 45370 (D &C orange No. 5); red, C.l. 15850 (D &C red No. 6); bluish red, Cl. 15850 (D &C red No. 7); light blue bluish C.l. 45380 (D &C red No. 22); bluish red, C.l. 45410 (D &C red No. 28); bluish red, C.l. 73360 (D &C red No. 30); reddish purple, C.l. 17200 (D &C red No. 33); impure blue-red, C.l. 15880 (D &C red No. 34); bright yellow red, C.l. 12085 P835 (D &C red No. 36); bright orange, C.l. 15510 (D &C orange No. 4); greenish yellow, C.l. 45005 (D &C yellow No. 10); bluish green, C.l. 59040 (D &C green No. 8); violet blue, C.l. 60730 (Ext D &C Violet No. 2); greenish yellow, C.l. 10316 (Ext. D &C yellow No. 7); Reactive dyes with fibers include Procion (RTM), Drimarene (RTM), Cibacron (RTM), Levafix (RTM) and Remazol (RTM) dyes available from ICI, Sandoz, Ciba-Geigy, Bayer and Hoechst, respectively. Natural dyes and vegetable dyes as defined herein include henna (Lawsonia alba), chamomile (Matricaria chamomila or anthemus nobilis), indigo, palo de campeche and nut shell extract. Temporary hair dyes, or hair coloring rinses, are generally comprised of dye molecules which are too large to diffuse into the hair shaft and which act on the outside of the hair. Usually, they are applied via a leave-in procedure in which the dye solution is allowed to dry on the hair surface. Since these dyes are typically less resistant to the effects of washing and cleaning the P835 hair with surfactants, and wash hair with relative ease. Any temporary dye for the hair can be suitably used in the compositions of the invention and examples for temporary, preferred hair dyes, as illustrated below.
Yellow Hair dyes, semi-permanent, are dyes that are generally smaller in size and perform temporary hair rinses, but are generally larger than permanent dyes (oxidants) Typically, semi-permanent dyes act in a manner similar to oxidant dyes and P835 that have the potential to diffuse into the hair shaft. However, semi-permanent dyes are generally smaller in size than the conjugated oxidizing dye molecules mentioned above and as such are predisposed to gradual diffusion out of the hair once again. The simple washing and cleansing action of the hair will encourage this process and in general the semi-permanent dyes are largely washed from the hair after approximately 5 to 8 weeks. Any semi-permanent dye system in the compositions of the present invention can suitably be used. Semi-permanent dyes suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are Blue HC 2, Yellow HC 4, Red HC 3, Violet Dispersed 4, Black Dispersed 9, Blue HC 7, Yellow HC 2, Blue Dispersed 3, Violet Dispersed 1 and mixtures thereof. The examples of semi-permanent dyes are illustrated below: P835 Blue Blue Yellow Red Red Typical semi-permanent dye systems incorporate mixtures of both large and small color molecules. Since the size of the hair is not P835 uniform from the root to the tip, the small molecules will diffuse both at the root and at the tip, but will not be retained inside the tip, while the larger molecules will generally only be able to diffuse at the ends of the hair . This combination of dye molecule size is used to help give consistent color results from the root to the tip of the hair both during the initial dyeing process and during subsequent washing.
Buffering Agents The dyeing compositions of the present invention have a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6, preferably from about 1.5 to about 5.8, more preferably from about 1.8 to about 5.5, more preferably from about 2. up to about 5 and especially from about 3.5 to about 4.5. As described hereinbefore, the pH of the preferred coloring compositions of the present invention is maintained within the desired range of pH via the action of the oxidizing agent of P835 inorganic oxygen. However, if desired, the compositions may contain one or more optional buffering agents and / or hair-swelling agents (HSAs). Various different pH modifiers can be used to adjust the pH of the final composition or any constituent part thereof. This pH adjustment can be effected by using well-known acidifying agents in the field of treatment of keratin fibers, and in particular human hair, such as inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, acid succinic, phosphoric acid and carboxylic or sulfonic acids such as ascorbic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, formic acid, ammonium sulfate and sodium dihydrogen phosphate / phosphoric acid, disodium hydrogen phosphate / phosphoric acid, potassium chloride / hydrochloric acid , potassium dihydrogen-phthalate-hydrochloric acid, dihydrogen-potassium citrate / hydrochloric acid, dihydrogen-potassium citrate / citric acid, sodium citrate / citric acid, sodium tartarate / tartaric acid, sodium lactate / lactic acid, acetate sodium / acetic acid, disodium hydrogen phosphate / citric acid and sodium chloride / glycine-acid P835 hydrochloric acid, succinic acid and mixtures thereof. Examples of alkaline buffering agents are ammonium hydroxide, ethylamine, dipropylamine, triethylamine and alkanediamines such as 1,3-diaminopropane, alkaline alkanolamines, anhydrouss such as mono- or di-ethanolamine, preferably those which are completely substituted in the amine group such as dimethylaminoethanol, polyalkylene polyamines, such as diethylenetriamine or a heterocyclic amine such as morpholine as well as the alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as hydroxide and magnesium and calcium, basic amino acids such as L-arginine, lysine, alanine, leucine, iso-leucine, oxysaline and histidine and alkanolamines such as dimethylaminoethanol and aminoalkylpropanediol and mixtures thereof. Also suitable for use are the compounds that form HC03- by dissociation in water (hereinafter referred to as "ion-forming compounds"). Examples of suitable ion-forming compounds are Na 2 CO 3, NaHCO 3, K 2 CO 3, (NH 4) 2 CO 3, NH 4 HCO 3, CaCO 3 and Ca (HC 3) and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein as buffering agents are organic acids and P835 inorganic having a first pKa below pH 6, and their conjugate bases. As defined herein, the first pKa means, the negative logarithm (to base 10) of the equilibrium constant K, where K is the maximum dissociation constant. Organic and inorganic acids suitable for use herein are: aspartic, maleic, tartaric, glutamic, glycolic, acetic, succinic, salicylic, formic, benzoic, malic, lactic, malonic, oxalic, citric, phosphoric and mixtures of the same. Particularly preferred are acetic acid, succinic, salicylic and phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof. The low pH coloring compositions according to the present invention may, as will be described hereinafter, be comprised of a final solution containing both peroxide and hair coloring oxidizing agents that have been mixed prior to application to the hair or an individual component system. As such, the compositions according to the present invention can comprise coloring equipment of a number of separate components. In oxidizing and coloring equipment comprising a portion of peroxygen oxidizing agent Inorganic P835, such as hydrogen peroxide, which may be present in either the solid or liquid form, a solution of buffering agent may be used to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide. Since hydrogen peroxide is stable in the pH range from 2 to 4, it is necessary to use a buffering agent having a pH within this range. Diluted acids are suitable buffering agents for hydrogen peroxide. In oxidizing and coloring equipment comprising an oxidizing agent (which may be in either solid or liquid form) in combination with one or more coloring agents, a buffering agent capable of maintaining a pH of solution in the range of about 1. to about 6, preferably from about 1.5 to about 5.8, or more preferably from about 1.8 to about 5.5, more preferably from about 2 to about 5 and especially from about 3.5 to about 4.5. as such, it is necessary to use a buffering agent having a pH within this range.
P835 Catalyst The coloration compositions herein may optionally contain a transition metal-containing catalyst for the inorganic peroxide oxidizing agents and the peroxyacid oxidizing agent (s), preformed, optional. A suitable type of catalyst is a catalyst system comprising a heavy metal cation of the catalytic activity of a bleach, defined, such as copper, iron or manganese cations, an auxiliary metal cation having little or no catalytic activity of bleaching, such as zinc or aluminum cations, and a sequestrant having the stability constants defined for the catalytic and auxiliary metal cations, particularly ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetrahydrate (methylene phosphonic) and water soluble salts thereof. These catalysts are described in US-A-4,430,243. Other types of suitable catalysts include the manganese-based complexes described in US-A-5, 246, 621 and US-A-5, 244, 594. Preferred examples of these catalysts include MnIV2 (u-0) 3 (1, 4, 7-trimethyl-1,4-, 7-triazacyclononane) 2- (PF6) 2, Mn? 2 (u-0). (U-OAc) 2 (1,4, 7-trimethyl-1, 4,7 - P835 triazacyclononane) 2- (C104) 2, nIV4 (iu-0) 6 (1, 4,7-triazacyclononane) 4- (Cl04) 2, MnI ?: rMnIV4 (u-0) 1 (u-OAc) 2- (1,4, 7-trimethyl-1,4-, 7-triazacyclononane) 2 (C104) 3, and mixtures thereof. Others are described in EP-A-0,6549,272. Other ligands suitable for use herein include 1, 5, 9-trimethyl-1, 5, 9-triazacyclododecane, 2-methyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane, 2-methyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane, 1,2,4,7-tetramethyl-1,4-, 7-triazacyclononane, and mixtures thereof. For examples of suitable catalysts see US-A-4,246, 612 and US-A-5, 227, 084. Also see US-A-5,194,416 teaching mononuclear manganese (IV) complexes such as Mn (1, 4, 7-trimethyl-1,4, 7-triazacyclononane) (OCH3) 3- (PF6). Yet another type of suitable catalyst, as described in US-A-5,114,606, is a water-soluble complex of manganese (II), and / or (IV) with a ligand that is a polyhydroxy non-carboxylate compound having at least three consecutive C-OH groups. Other examples include binuclear Mn formed in complex with tetra-N-dentate and ligands of bi-N-dentate including N4Mn? N (uO) 2MnlvN4) + and [Bipy2Mn?: C? (U-0) 2 Mn? Vbipy2] - (C104) 3. Suitable additional catalysts are described, for example, in EP-A-0, 408, 131 (cobalt complex catalysts), EP-A-8, 384, 503, P835 and EP-A-0, 306, 089 (metallo-porphyrin catalysts), US-A-4, 728, 455 (manganese / multidentate ligand catalysts), US-A-4, 711, 748 and EP- A-0, 224, 952, (manganese absorbed in aluminosilicate catalyst), US-4,601,845 (aluminosilicate support with manganese and zinc and magnesium salt), US-A-4, 626, 373 (manganese / ligand catalyst) , US-1-4, 119, 557 (ferric complex catalyst), DE-A-2, 054, 019 (cobalt chelator catalyst), CA-A-866,191 (salts containing transition metal), US- A-430,243 (chelants with manganese cations and non-catalytic metal cations), and US-A-4,728, 55 (manganese gluconate catalysts).
Heavy metal ion sequestrants The coloring compositions of the invention may contain as an additional component a heavy metal ion sequestrant. By "heavy metal ion sequestrant" is meant herein components that act to sequester (chelate or remove) heavy metal ions. These components may also have the ability to chelate calcium and magnesium, but preferentially show selectivity for binding P835 of heavy metal ions such as iron, manganese and copper. These sequestering agents are valuable in the hair coloring compositions as described herein for the distribution of the controlled oxidizing action as well as for the provision of good storage stability of the hair coloring products. Heavy metal ion sequestrants are generally present at a level from about 0.005% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight of The compositions. Various sequestering agents, including amino phosphonates, available as Dequest (RTM) from Monsanto, nitriloacetates, hydroxyethyl-ethylene-trianes and the like are known for this use. Suitable heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein include organic phosphonates, such as amino alkylene poly (alkylene phosphonates), alkali metal ethane 1-hydroxy disphosphonates and nitrile trimethylene phosphonates. Preferred among the above species are diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonate), ethylene- P835 diamine-tri (methylene phosphonate), hexamethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonate) and hydroxyethylene 1,1-disphosphonate. Preferred heavy-metal, non-phosphorus, non-phosphorus ion sequestrants suitable for use herein include nitrilotriacetic acid and polyaminocarboxylic acids such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, ethylenediamine diglutaric acid, acid 2-hydroxypropylenediamine disuccinic, or any of the salts thereof. Especially preferred are ethylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid (EDDS), see US-A-4,704,233, or the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium or substituted ammonium thereof, or mixtures thereof. Other suitable heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein are iminodiacetic acid derivatives such as 2-hydroxyethyl diacetic acid or glyceryl imino diacetic acid, described in EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399, 133. The iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl-sulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid sequestrants described in EP-A-516,102 are also suitable herein.
P835 The β-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, N-N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid and iminodisuscinic acid sequestrants described in EP-A-509,382 are also suitable. EP-A-476,257 describes suitable amino-based sequestrants. EP-A-510,331 describes suitable sequestrants derived from collagen, keratin or casein. EP-A-528,859 describes a suitable alkyl-iminodiacetic acid sequestrant. Also suitable are dipicolinic acid and 2-phosphonabutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid. Also suitable are glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N '-diglutaric acid (EDDG) and 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N-N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS). The heavy metal ion sequestrants of the present invention can be used in their alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.
Thickeners The coloring compositions of the present invention may additionally include a thickener at a level from about 0.05% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to P835 approximately 5% by weight. Thickening agents suitable for use in the compositions herein are selected from oleic acid, cetyl acid, oleyl alcohol, sodium chloride, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, synthetic thickeners such as Carbopol, Aculyn and Acrosyl and mixtures thereof. same. Preferred thickeners for use herein are Aculyn 22 (RTM), steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer; Aculyn 44 (RTM), polyurethane resin and Acusol 830 (RTM), acrylate copolymer available from Rohm and Haas, Philadelphia, PA, USA. Additional thickeners suitable for use herein include sodium alginate or gum arabic, or cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose or the sodium salt of carboxymethylcellulose or acrylic polymers.
Diluvente Water is the preferred diluent for the compositions according to the present invention. However, the compositions according to the present invention can include one or more solvents as additional diluent materials. In general, solvents suitable for use in the coloring compositions of the present invention are P835 are selected to be water miscible and harmless to the skin. Solvents suitable for use as additional diluents herein include mono- or polyhydric alcohols of 1 to 20 carbon atoms and their esters, glycerin, with monohydric and dihydric alcohols and their esters which are more preferred. In these compounds, alcohol residues containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms are preferred. Thus, a preferred group includes ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Water is the preferred main diluent in the compositions according to the present invention. The main diluent, as defined herein, means that the present water level is higher than the total level of any other diluent. The diluent is present at a level of preferably about 5% to about 99.98%, preferably from about 15% to about 99.5%, more preferably at least about 30% to about 39%, and especially about 50. % up to about 98% by weight of the compositions herein.
P835 Enzyme An additional, extensive material useful in hair coloring compositions according to the present invention is one or more enzymes. Suitable enzyme materials include the commercially available lipases, cutinases, amylases, neutral and alkaline proteases, esterases, cellulases, peptinases, lactases and peroxidases commercially incorporated into the detergent compositions. Suitable enzymes are discussed in U.S. Patent No. 3, 519,570 and 3,533,139. Peroxidases are specific hemoproteins for peroxide, but using a wide range of substrates as donors. Catalase that decomposes peroxide is included in the present in view of the fact that it is generally similar in structure and properties and is capable of certain oxidations by H202. The decomposition of H202 can be considered as the oxidation of one molecule by the other. It extends into aerobic cells and may have some more important function. The coenzyme, peroxidases are not haemoproteins and at least one is falvoprotein. Other flavoproteins such as xanthine oxidase will also use H202 among other acceptors, and the coenzyme, peroxidases resemble these in place of the classical peroxidases that P835 are not specific for H202. Peroxidases suitable for the decomposition of the present invention include horseradish peroxidase, horseradish peroxidase, cow's milk peroxidase, rat liver peroxidase, linginase, and haloperoxidase such as chloro- and bromo-peroxides. The enzymes are optionally incorporated at levels sufficient to provide up to about 50 mg by weight, more typically about 0.01 mg to about 10 mg of active enzyme per gram of the hair treatment composition of the invention. Expressed otherwise, the enzyme peroxidase may be incorporated into the compositions according to the invention at a level from about 0.0001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.001% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.01. % up to about 1% active enzyme per weight of the composition. Commercially available protease enzymes include those sold under the trademarks Alcalase, Savinase, Primase, Durazym, and Esperase by Novo Industries A / S (Denmark), those sold by the trademark Maxatase, Maxacal and Maxapem by Gist-Brocades, those sold by P835 Genecor International, and those sold under the trade name Opticlean and Optimase by Solvay Enzymes. The protease enzyme can be incorporated into the compositions according to the invention at a level from about 0.0001% to 4% active enzyme per weight of the composition. Amylases include, for example, α-amylases obtained from a special strain of B-licheniformis, described in more detail in GB-1,269,839 (Novo). Preferred commercially available amylases include, for example, those sold under the trademark Rapidase by Gist-Brocades, and those sold under the trademark Termamyl and BAN by Novo Industries A / S. The amylase enzyme can be incorporated in the composition according to the invention at a level from about 0.0001% to 2% active enzyme by weight of the composition. The lipolytic enzyme can be presented at levels of the active lipolytic enzyme from about 0.0001% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of the compositions . The lipase can be obtained from fungal or bacterial origin, for example, from a strain P835 that produces Humicola lipase, sp. , Thermomyces, sp. 0 Pseudomonas sp. Including Pseudomonas pseudoalealigenes or Pseudomas fluorescens. The lipase of chemically or genetically modified mutants of these strains are also useful, for example. A preferred lipase is derived from Pseudomonas pseudoalcaliqenes, which is described in the European Patent issued, EP-B-0218272. Another preferred lipase herein is obtained by cloning the gene from Humicola lanuginosay and expressing the gene in Aspergillus Oryza, as a host, as described in European Patent Application, EP-A-0258, 068, which is commercially available from Novo Industri A / S Bagsvaerd, Denmark, under the trade name Lipolase. This lipase is also described in U.S. Patent No. 4,810,414 to Huge-Jensen, et al., Issued March 7, 1989.
Surfactant Materials The compositions of the present invention may additionally contain a surfactant system. Suitable surfactants for inclusion in the compositions of the invention generally have a lipophilic chain length from about 8 to about 22 atoms.
P835 carbon and can be selected from surfactants, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, and mixtures thereof. (i) Anionic surfactants Anionic surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the invention include alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated alkyl sulphates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulphates, methyl acyl taurates, fatty acyl glycinates, N-acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ethoxysulfosuccinates, alpha-sulphonated fatty acids, their salts and / or their esters, alkyl ethoxy carboxylates, alkyl phosphate ethers, ethoxylated alkyl phosphate esters, alkyl sulfates, acyl sarcosinates and fatty acid / protein condensates and mixtures thereof. The lengths of the alkyl and / or acyl chain for these surfactants are from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 14 carbon atoms. (ii) Nonionic surfactants The compositions of the invention also P835 may comprise a water-soluble nonionic surfactant (s). Surfactants of this class include mono- and di-ethanolamines of fatty acid of 12 to 14 carbon atoms, sucrose-polyester surfactants and polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants having the general formula below: O R "R8-C-N-Z2 The fatty acid amide surfactants of N-alkyl, N-alkoxy or N-aryloxy, polyhydroxy, according to the above formula are those in which R8 is hydrocarbyl of 5 to 31 carbon atoms, preferably hydrocarbyl of 6 to 19 carbon atoms, including straight chain and branched chain alkyl and alkenyl, or mixtures thereof and R 9 is typically hydrogen, alkyl of 1 to 8 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkyl, preferably methyl, or a group of the formula -R "" - 0-R2, wherein R1 is hydrocarbyl of 2 to 8 carbon atoms including straight chain, branched chain and cyclic (including aryl), and is preferably alkylene of 2 to 4 carbon atoms, R2 is straight chain hydrocarbyl, chain Branched P835 and cyclic chain of 1 to 8 carbon atoms, including aryl and oxyhydrocarbyl, and is preferably alkyl of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, especially methyl or phenyl. Z2 is a polyhydroxyhydrocarbyl portion having a linear hydrocarbyl chain with at least 2 (in the case of glyceraldehyde) or at least 3 hydroxyl (in the case of other reducing sugars) directly connected to the chain, or alkoxylated derivative (preferably ethoxylated) or propoxylated) thereof. Z2 will be preferably derived from a reducing sugar in a reductive amination reaction, more preferably Z2 is a glycityl portion. Suitable reducing sugars include glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, and xylose, as well as glyceraldehyde. As raw materials, high dextrose corn syrup, high fructose corn syrup, high maltose corn syrup, as well as the individual sugars listed above can be used. These corn syrups can produce a mixture of sugar components for Z2. It will be understood that it does not intend to exclude other raw materials. Z2 will preferably be selected from the group consisting of -CH2 (CHOH) n-CH2OH, -CH (CH2OH) - (CHOH) n-l-CH2H.
CH2 (CHOH) 2 (CHOR ') CHOH) -CH2OH, wherein n is an integer from 1 to 5, inclusive, and R' is H or a cyclic mono- or polysaccharide, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof. As noted, more preferred are glycityls wherein n is 4, particularly -CH2- (CHOH) 4-CH2OH. The most preferred polyhydroxy fatty acid amide has the formula R8 (CO) N (CH3) CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH wherein R8 is a straight chain alkyl or alkylene group of 6 to 19 carbon atoms. In the compounds of the above formula, R8-CO-N < it can be, for example, cocoamide, stearamide, oleamide, lauramide, myristamide, capricamide, palmiamide, seboamide, etc. Nonionic surfactants, oil derivatives suitable for use herein include emollients derived from animals and plants, soluble in water, such as triglycerides with a polyethylene glycol chain inserted, mono and di-glycerides ethoxylated, polyethoxylated lanolines and derivatives of butter, ethoxylates. A preferred class of oil-derived nonionic surfactants for use herein have the general formula below.
P835 RCOCH2CH (OH) CH2 (OCH2CH2) nOH wherein n is from about 5 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, more preferably from about 30 to about 85, and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having an average of from about 5 to 20 atoms carbon, preferably from about 7 to about 18 carbon atoms. Suitable oils and ethoxylated acids of this class include polyethylene glycol glyceryl cocoate derivatives, glyceryl caproate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl seboate, glyceryl palmate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl ricinoleate. , and glyceryl fatty esters derived from triglycerides, such as palm oil, almond oil, and corn oil, preferably glyceryl ceboate, and glyceryl cocoate. Preferred for use herein are polyethylene glycol-based, non-ionic, polyol fatty acid nonionic surfactants of from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, containing on average from about 5 to about 50 ethyleneoxy portions per mole of surfactant. Fatty acids of 9 to 15 carbon atoms, polyethoxylated, based on polyethylene glycol, suitable for use herein include Pareth-3 of 9 to 11 carbon atoms, and Pareth-4 of 9 to 11 carbon atoms, Partht 5 of 9 to 11 carbon atoms, Pareth-6 of 9 to 11 carbon atoms, Pareth-7 of 9 to 11 carbon atoms, Pareth-8 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-3 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-4 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-5 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-6 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-7 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-4 8 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-9 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms and Pareth-10 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-11 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms, Pareth-12 of 11 to 15 atoms of carbon, Pareth-13 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms and Pareth-14 of 11 to 15 carbon atoms. Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG 40 is commercially available under the trademark Cremaphor (RTM) from BASF. Glyceryl cocoate PEG 7 and glyceryl laurate PEG 20 are commercially available from Henkel under the tradenames of Cetiol (RTM) HE and Lamacit (RTM) GML 20, P835 respectively. Pareth-8 DE 9 to 11 carbon atoms is commercially available from Shell Ltd under the trade name Dobanol (RTM) 91-8. Particularly preferred for use herein are the polyethylene glycol ethers of cetearyl alcohol such as Ceteareth 25 which is available from BASF under the tradename Cremaphor A25. Also suitable for use herein are the nonionic surfactants derived from vegetable fat obtained from the fruit of the Shea tree (Butyrospermum Karkii Kotschy) and derivatives thereof. Similarly, the ethoxylated derivatives of Mango, Cacao and Hipe butter can be used in compositions according to the invention. Although these are classified as non-ionic, ethoxylated surfactants, it is understood that a certain proportion can remain as vegetable oil, or non-ethoxylated fat. Other suitable nonionic surfactants, oil derivatives, include ethoxylated derivatives of almond oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, chabacano bone oil, nuts, palm kernel, pistachios, sesame seeds, nava, juniper oil, corn oil, P835 peach pit oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil , and sunflower seed oil. (iii) Amphoteric surfactants Amphoteric surfactants, for use in the compositions of the invention include: (a) imidazolinium surfactant of the formula (VIII) C2H4OR2 CH5Z R. N- wherein R_ is alkyl of 7 to 22 carbon atoms or alkenyl, R2 is hydrogen or CH2Z, each Z is independently C02M or CH2C02M, and M is H, derivatives of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium and / or ammonium of the formula (VIII).
C2H4OH R, CONH (CH-,) -.N * CH-.2 P835 wherein R-, R2 and Z are as defined above; (b) aminoalkanoates of the formula (IX) R1 (NH (CHa) aCOaM Iminodialkanoates of the formula (X) R1N [(CH2) CO2M] 2 And iminopolyalkanoates of the formula (XI) Rl- [N (CH:) p3qN [CH2C? 2] 2 - I I CH2C02M wherein n, m, p, and q are numbers from 1 to 4, and R._ and M are independently selected from the groups specified above; Y (c) Mixtures thereof Suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are sold under the trademark Miranol and Empigen and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species. Traditionally, miranoles have been described as having the general formula (VII), although the P835 CTFA cosmetic ingredient dictionary, 3rd Edition indicates the non-cyclic structure (VIII), while the 4th Edition indicates yet another structural isomer in which R2 is O-linked instead of N-linked. In practice, a complex mixture of cyclical and non-cyclic species probably exists and both definitions are given in the present for the sake of fullness. Preferred for use herein, however, are non-ionic species. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) include compounds of the formula XII and / or XIII in which Rx is C8H17 (especially iso-capryl), C9H19 and C1: LH23-alkyl. Especially preferred are compounds in which R .. is CgH19, Z is C02M and R2 is H; the compounds in which R? is C1: LH23, Z is C02M and R2 is CH2C02M; and the compounds in which Rx is C ^ H ^, Z is C02M and R2 is H. In the CTFA nomenclature, materials suitable for use in the present invention include cocoanfocarboxipropionate, cocoanfocarboxypropionic acid, and especially cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate. (otherwise referred to as cocoanfocarboxiglicinates). Specific commercial products include those sold under the names Commercial p835 of Ampholak 7TX (carboxymethyl-tallow-polypropyl-aminosodic), Empigen CDL60 and CDR 60 (Albright &Wilson), Miranol H2M Conc. Miranol C2M Conc. N.P., Miranol C2M Conc. OP., Miranol C2M SF, Miranol CM Special (Rhone-Poulenc); Alcateric 2CIB (Alcaril Chemicals); Amphoterge W-2 (Lonza, Inc.); Monateric CDX-38, Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries); Rewoteric AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and Schercotic MS-2 (Scher Chemicals). Additional examples of amphoteric surfactants suitable for use herein include octoxynol-1 (RTM), polyoxyethylene octylphenyl ether (1); nonoxonil-4 (RTM), polyoxyethylene nonylphenyl ether (4) and Nonoxynol-9, polyoxyethylene nonylphenyl ether (9). It will be understood that a number of commercially available amphoteric surfactants of this type are manufactured and sold in the form of electroneutral complexes with, for example, hydroxid counterions or with anionic sulfate or sulfonate surfactants, especially those of sulfated alcohol of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, ethoxylated alcohol of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or acyl glyceride types of 8 to 18 carbon atoms. It is pointed out that the concentrations and weight ratios of the amphoteric surfactants are based on the present invention.
P835 the non-complex forms of the surfactants, any contra-ion of anionic surfactant that is considered as part of the complete content of the anionic surfactant component. Examples of preferred amphoteric surfactants of type (b) include N-alkyl-polytrimethylene poly, carboxymethylamines, sold under the trade names Ampholak X07 and Ampholak 7CX by Berol Nobel and their salts, especially the triethanolammonium salts and the salts of N-lauryl-beta-amino propionic acid and N-lauryl-imino-dipropionic acid. These materials are sold under the trade name Deriphat by Henkel and Mirataine by Rhóne-Poulenc. (iv) Zwitterionic surfactants The zwitterionic, auxiliary, water-soluble surfactants suitable for inclusion in the composition of the present invention include alkyl betaines of the formula R5R6R7N + (CH2) nC02M and amidobetaines of the formula (XII) a continuation: R-CON'i: H2- "Í H2'nC02M P835 wherein R5 is alkyl or alkenyl of 11 to 22 carbon atoms, R6 and R7 are independently alkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium, and n, m are each numbers from 1 to 4. Preferred betaines include cocoamidopropyl dimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, laurylamidopropyl dimethylcarboxymethyl betaine and Tego betaine (RTM). The water-soluble auxiliary sultaine surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl sultaines of the formula (XIII) below: R2 R1CON (CH2) mN "*" (CH2) nCH (OH) CH2S? 3- + R3 wherein Rx is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 and R3 are independently alkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium and m and n are numbers from 1 to 4. Preferred for use in the present P835 is coco-amido-propylhydroxy-sultaine. The water-soluble auxiliary amine oxide surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl amine oxide R5R6R7NO and amido-amine oxides of the formula (XIV) below: R5CON (CH2) mN * - or wherein R5 is alkyl or alkenyl of 11 to 22 carbon atoms, R6 and R7 are independently alkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium, and m is a number of 1 to 4. Preferred amine oxides include cocoamidopropylamine oxide, lauryl dimethyl amine oxide and myristyl dimethyl amine oxide.
Optional Materials A number of optional additional materials may be added to the presently described coloration compositions, each at a level from about 0.001% to about 5.
P835%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% of the composition. These materials include proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof. Water soluble or solubilizable preservatives such as DMDM Hydantoin, Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, natural preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate and bisabalol, benzoic acid , sodium benzoate and 2-phenoxyethanol; antioxidants such as sodium sulfite, hydroquinone sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and thioglycolic acid, sodium dithionite, erythrobic acid and other mercaptans; dye removers such as oxalic acid, sulphated castor oil, salicylic acid and sodium thiosulfate; H202 stabilizers such as tin compound such as sodium stannate, stannic hydroxide, and stannous octoate, acetanilide, colloidal silica with phenacetin such as magnesium silicate, oxyquinoline sulfate, sodium sulfate, and tetrasodium pyrophosphate; and p-hydroxybenzoates, wetting agents such as hyaluronic acid, chitin, and sodium polyacrylates grafted with starch such as Sanwet (RTM) MI-1000, MI-1500 and P835 MI-2500 available from Cleanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in US-A-4,076,663, as well as methyl cellulose, starch, higher fatty alcohols, paraffin oils, fatty acids and the like; solvents; antibacterial agents such as Oxeco (phenoxy-isopropanol); low temperature phase modifiers such as ammonium ion sources (e.g., NH4C1); viscosity control agents such as magnesium sulfate and other electrolytes; quaternary amine compounds such as distearyl-dialuryl, di-hydrogenated beef bait, dimethyl-ammonium chloride, diacetyl ammonium sulfate, dimethyl ammonium-methoxyl sulfate, disoya-dimethyl-ammonium chloride, and dicoco-dimethyl-ammonium chloride; hair conditioning agents such as silicones, higher alcohols, cationic polymers and the like; enzyme stabilizers such as water soluble sources of calcium or borate species; coloring agents; Ti02 and mica coated with Ti02; perfumes and solubilisables of perfume; and zeolites such as Valfour BV400 and derivatives thereof and Ca2 + / Mg2 + sequestrants such as polycarboxylates, amino polycarboxylates, polyphosphonates, amino polyphosphonates, etc., and aqueous softening agents such as sodium citrate.
P835 The present invention is represented by the following non-limiting examples. In the examples, all concentrations are on an active basis of 100% and all percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated and abbreviations have the following designations: Oxidizing agent Hydrogen peroxide Oxidant dye 1 Para-phenylenediamine Oxidative dye 2 Para-aminophenol Oxidative dye 3 Meta-aminophenol Oxidant dye 4 2 -amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine Oxidative dye 5 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene Non-oxidizing dye Basic red 76 Chelating agent Ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid Surfactant 1 Ceteareth-25 Surfactant 2 Cocoamidopropyl betaine Thickener 1 Cetyl alcohol Thickener 2 Stearyl alcohol Antioxidant Sodium Sulfite Buffering agent Acetic acid P835 E llos I-VII The following are hair treatment compositions in the form of hair coloring compositions that are representative of the present invention.
II III IV V VI VII Ingredient Oxidizing agent 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 2.5 1.5 Oxidizing dye 1 0.24 0.14 0.24 0) .. 1155 0.24 0.4 0.4 Oxidizing dye 2 0.09 0.05 0.009 0.5 0.09 0.1 0.1 Oxidizing dye 3 0.006 0.004 0.006 0.006 - 0.006 - - Oxidizing dye 4 0.06 0.03 0.06 0.1 0.06 0.06 0.06 Oxidizing dye 5 - 0.5 _ _ ----- Dye not - - - - - 0.1 - oxidizing agent 1.5 1.7 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 - surfactant 1 Agent - - - - - - 1.5 surfactant 2 Agent 0.1 0.06 0.09 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.1 chelating Thickener 1 2.3 2.6 2.3 2.3 2.3 4.0 4.0 Thickener 2 2.3 2.6, 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.0 2.0 Antioxidant 0.1 0.06 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - - Shock absorber 1 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2 Water For The Rest PH 4.0 3.8 3.9 4.6 2.7 _ _ P835 In the examples, water is used as the diluent. However, in variations of the present water may be replaced, in part, by from about 0.5% to about 50% by weight of the total water content of the examples or diluents such as lower alcohols, eg, ethylene glycol, ether ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, glycerin, butoxy ethane. , ethoxydiglycol, hexylene glycol, polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether and mixtures thereof.
EXPERIMENTAL METHODS Evaluation I. - Assessment of the initial color and. Color Change The equipment used to measure both the initial color and the color change in the substrates (hair / skin) stained with the low pH coloring compositions of the present invention is a Hunter Colorquest spectrophotometer. The value used to express the degree of color change in any particular substrate is Delta E (? E). Delta E, as defined herein, is represented by a sum P835 requires the values L, a and b such as: ? E = (? L2 +? A2 +? B2) l / 2 and L is a measure of clarity and darkness (color intensity), where L = 100 is equivalent to white and L - 0 is equivalent to black. Also, "a" is a measure of the green and red ratios (color tone) such that positive is equal to red and negative is equal to green, and "b" is a measure of the yellow and blue ratio (color tone) such that positive is equal to yellow and negative is equal to blue. Hunter Coloquest measurements can be performed on the Hunter Labscan Colorimeter which is a full-spectrum spectrocolorimeter with a wavelength of 400-7700 nanometers that records the color of the test hair braids (strands) in terms of the values "L", "a" and "b".
The machine adjusts to mode- 0/45, hole size- 1 inch, division size - 1 inch; light - D65; division field -10a; UV lamp / filter -none. The hair is placed in a sample holder designed to hold the hair in a uniform orientation during measurement. Equivalent colorimeters can be used, but it must be ensured that the P835 hair does not move during the measurement. The hair should be extended to cover the 1-inch hole during the color measurement. Points are placed on the braid support to guide the placement of the support in the hole. The points are aligned with a mark in the hole and the readings are taken at each site. Eight measurements are taken per braid, 4 on each side, and three braids are run per treatment.
II. Normal Hair Braid The compositions according to the present invention can be used to color hair of all colors, types and condition. For the purposes of illustration, two types of test hair braids have been tested herein; light coffee and light coffee with 40% gray coverage. These braids of normal hair can be measured in terms of their values L, a, and b.
L A b Light coffee 60 9 32 Light coffee with 40% gray 35-37 4.5 - 5.5 11.5 - 12.7 P835 III Hair Braid Coloring Method To color the hair, a braid of 4 grams of hair about 8 inches long is hung over a suitable container. The test coloring product is then prepared (ie, where applicable, the components of the standing bottles are mixed together) and about 8 grams of the product are directly applied to the braid of the test hair. The dye is massaged through the hair braid for about 1 minute and left on the hair braid for about 30 minutes. After rinsing under running water for about 1 to 2 minutes, the colored hair braid is then cleaned (according to the shampoo protocol) and dried. Drying can be done either naturally (without technical assistance) or by using a dryer. The color development (initial color) of the dry, clean, colored test hair braid can then be assessed using the Hunter Colorquest spectrophotometer. For the distribution of a red hue (tone) to light brown hair, pre-bleached, pre-treated for permanent hair (having L, a, b values of approximately 60, 9 and 32), the preferred initial shade of colored hair will have a tone value (tangent P835 arc of (b / a)) in the range of from about 25 to about 70, more preferably from about 35 to about 60 and wherein the initial color intensity (L) is greater than about 10 and less than about 70, preferably greater than about 15 and less than about 65, more preferably greater than about 20 and less than about 60. For the distribution of a brown or black (tone) shade to light brown, prebleached hair, treated for permanent (having values L, a, b of approximately 69, 9 and 32) the preferred initial hue of the colored hair will have a pitch value (arc tangent of (b / a)) of less than about 25, in preferably less than about 20 and the initial color intensity (L) will be greater than about 1 and less than about 50, preferably greater than about 5 and less than about 45. For the distribution of a light brown hue (tone) to light brown hair, pre-whitened, pre-treated to permanent (having values L, a, b, of approximately 60.9 and 32) the preferred initial shade of the colored hair will have a tone value (arc tangent of (b / a)) in the range from approximately P835 70 to about 110 and wherein the initial color intensity (L) will be greater than about 20 and less than about 95, preferably greater than about 25 and less than about 90. A significant color change, as distributed via the coloring compositions according to the present invention means a color change in terms of delta E, which is greater than about 8, preferably greater than about 10, more preferably greater than about 12, more preferably greater than about 15 and especially greater than about 20.
Hair Braid Cleaning Method Colored hair braids were subjected to a repeated cleaning cycle where the following process is repeated up to 10 times. An 8-inch test-tube, 4 grams of colored hair was held in a suitable container and thoroughly rinsed for approximately 10 seconds using hot water (at approximately 100 ° F at approximately 1.5 gallons / minute pressure). Then shampoo was applied directly (approximately 0.4 ml of shampoo P835 non-conditioner) to the wet test lock using a syringe. After foaming of the hair for about 30 seconds, the hair was rinsed in warm, running water for about 30 seconds. The process of washing with shampoo and foaming was then repeated with a final rinse of 60 seconds. Then the excess water (squeezed) of the test braid is removed using the fingers. The test lock is then dried either manually, using a preheated dryer box at approximately 140 aF (for about 30 minutes). The test hair braid, dry, clean, colored can then be assessed in its color (Fading delta E). During any individual test cycle, each different braid to be evaluated must be tested in water temperature, pressure level and hardness level, equivalents. The results of delta E fading for light brown hair pre-whitened, pre-treated for permanent hair (having L, a, b values of approximately 60.9 and 32) to be colored to red hue (of tone value in the range from about 25 to about 70) are generally less than about 5.0, in shape Preferred P835 less than about 4.5, more preferably less than 4.0, and wherein the change in hair color,% delta E, after 20 washes, and less than about 20%, and preferably less than about 15 %, more preferably less than about 10%. The results of the delta fading E for light brown hair, pre-whitened, pre-treated for permanent (having values L, a, b of approximately 60.9 and 32) that has been colored to a brown or black hue (of tone value in the range from about 25) are in general less than about 2.3, preferably less than about 2.0, more preferably less than about 1.7, and wherein the change in hair color,% delta E, after 20 washes, and less than about 5%, and preferably less than about 4.5%, more preferably less than about 4% more preferably less than about 3.5%. The results of delta E fading for light brown hair, pre-whitened, pre-treated for permanent (having L, a, b values of approximately 60.9 and 32) that have been colored to a brown or black hue (of tone value in the interval P835 from about 70 to about 110) are generally less than about 2.6, preferably less than about 2.3, and wherein the change in hair color,% delta E, after 20 washes, and less than about 15 %, and preferably less than about 12%, more preferably less than about 10% more preferably less than about 8%. In preferred compositions herein, the color change of the dyeing hair over time (delta E) is less than about 15%, preferably less than about 12, preferably less than about 10%, and more preferably less than about 8%.
V. Skin Stain Test Method For the purposes of the present invention, skin staining results are based on pig staining data. Skin staining measurements can be made on pig ears, preferably freshly slaughtered pig ears. The ears should not have been subjected to undue heating (burn). Hair is shaved from the flatter section of the ear P835 that is going to be dyed. An area of at least 1 centimeter by 5 centimeters in the ear is pre-marked (using permanent marker) and the ear is then cleaned with non-conditioning shampoo (0.1 g / cm2 at 10% dilution). After massaging the shampoo for about 1 minute, the ear is rinsed for approximately 30 seconds then gently patted by hand with a paper towel. The readings of the color evaluation of the baseline (L, a, b) for the pre-marked area. The test temp then is applied to the pre-marked test area (approximately 0.25 g / cm2) and massaged for approximately 1 minute and allowed to remain in the ear for approximately 30 minutes. The accumulated ear is then rinsed with approximately 2 liters of tap water at approximately 372C and then dried by hand as before. Then the reading of color information (L, a, b) is taken for the pre-marked area of the dry ear. The total color change (Delta E) can then be calculated from the values L, a, b and are expressed as relative levels of skin staining (against baseline color) VI pH Measurement For the purposes of the present invention, P835 as described herein, all pH measurements are carried out on a Mettler Toledo 320 pH meter. All measurements of the pH of the dyes, oxidizing agents and mixtures thereof, either individually or in combination with a suitable distributor medium, such as water and surfactant and / or dispersants, are carried out at room temperature (about 252C). The pH of the dye mixtures was measured in the proposed light shape and before the application. A preferred teaching medium for use herein comprises an emulsion of ceteareth-25 at a level of from about 1% to about 3% by weight; cetyl alcohol at a level of from about 2% to about 5% by weight and stearyl alcohol at a level from about 2% to about 5% of the composition solution.
EXPERIMENTAL DATA X Initial Color _ Washing Firmness Example Formula I provides improved initial color and fading resistance against a similar composition having pH outside the scope of the present invention. The example Formula II provides P835 improved initial color development and wash fastness against a high pH, similar formula that contains the same level of oxidant and up to 60% more dye. Exemplary Formula III provides improved initial color development against a high pH formula containing the same level of temp but more inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent.
II Relative Skin Staining Exemplary Formula IV provides reduced levels of skin staining in a pig ear against a composition equivalent to high pH.
Manufacturing Method It is important that the dyeing compositions be in a form that is easy and combined to be prepared and used by the consumer, since the oxidizing agent must remain in contact with the hair for a certain period of time and not run or dripping of the hair, possibly causing irritation of the skin or eye. To face the above, the coloring compositions of the present invention can be provided * either in an individual package or in a P835 form equipment as separately packaged components to maintain stability, and if desired, either be mixed by the user immediately to the application to the hair, or mixed and stored for future use, mixed and partially used and the rest is stored for future use. As described hereinabove, the compositions according to the present invention can be used by the consumer as a single component package. This individual package will comprise an individual solution at pH 1 to 6 which contains both inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent and oxidative dye precursors. The oxidation will be applied directly to the hair by the consumer without the need for any pretreatment or mixing, thus providing a simple, fast, easy to use, non-tangling hair coloring system. The additional advantage of this individual component system is that it can be stored and reused, that is, a small individual could contain - enough coloring composition for several applications over time. Thus, in accordance with a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided: A method for coloring the hair where it is P835 presents a mixture of hair coloring in an individual package and is applied directly to the hair and where the hair coloring mixture comprises: (a) from about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent; and wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b), when in solution, are in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b), when in solution, has a pH range of from about 1 to about 6. According to a still further aspect of the present invention, there is provided: A method for coloring the hair, wherein the hair coloring composition is present as packaged components of separate way (a) and (b), wherein the hair coloring composition comprises: (a) from about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 P835 moles (per 100 g of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent, wherein the pH of (a) is in the range of about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent, wherein the pH of (b) is in the range of from about 1 to about 6; and wherein each of (a) and (b) are stable at the pH in the range of about 1 to about 6 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) is stable over time and has a pH in the range of about 1 to about 6. Alternatively, the compositions according to the present invention can be packaged as follows: a component of the equipment comprises an individually packaged oxidizing component while additional components of the equipment could comprise a coloring agent mixture and optionally, an additional, individually, individually packaged oxidizing agent (s), or two individual packets of oxidizing agent (s) and coloring agents. In the embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing component comprises a stabilized aqueous solution of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent, of general test hydrogen peroxide in P835 a concentration such that the final concentration of the coloring composition for use in the hair is from about 0.05% to about 6% and additional agents as described hereinabove. The compositions can either be mixed by the user either immediately before application to the hair or can be applied separately. The examples of these equipment are as follows: I. A hair coloring equipment is assembled, which comprises a single package that includes therein: (1) a 50 ml bottle of hydrogen peroxide (1.4 wt% H202) and optionally buffering agents and / or stabilizers; and (2) a 50 ml bottle containing one or more hair coloring agents, oxidants, and optionally, additional agents and such as surfactants, stabilizers, buffers, antioxidants, thickeners, etc. The hair coloring oxidizing agents can be either mixed with the hydrogen peroxide to form the babo dyeing system of the present invention and the resulting solution can be either applied to the hair to be colored or stored for future use, or the stable packaged components of P835 can be stored and mixed when required. II. A hair coloring equipment as described above, wherein the hydrogen peroxide-containing component is applied to the hair prior to the application of the hair coloring oxidizing agents and additional materials to the hair. III. Further examples of the equipment components for the hair coloring compositions according to the present invention include a separately packaged oxidant and hair coloring oxidizing agents wherein either or both of the components are present in particulate form.
METHOD OF USE The compositions described herein are used to color the hair. The coloring compositions are applied to the hair in the present for periods of from 1 to 60 minutes depending on the degree of coloring required. A preferred time is between 5 minutes and 30 minutes. The coloring compositions according to the present invention can be applied to both wet and dry hair.
P835 As described hereinabove, the coloring composition can be presented as a single package, at low pH, suitable for direct application to hair. Alternatively, the coloring composition may be presented in the form of equipment, wherein a component comprises an oxidizing agent and an additional component comprises oxidizing hair coloring agents. The hair coloring equipment according to the present invention can be used to color the hair in several ways including: (i) the components of the equipment are mixed to form a low pH coloring composition before application to the hair. (ii) the hair oxidizing agent is applied to the hair prior to the application of the hair coloring oxidizing agents (iii) the hair coloring oxidizing agents are applied to the hair prior to the application of the oxidizing agent. The products provide excellent benefits of initial hair coloration and efficiency in use including improved wash fastness, improved color saturation and reduced hair damage at lower pH.
P835

Claims (1)

  1. CLAIMS; A hair coloring composition, comprising: (a) from about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0. 09 moles (per 100 g of composition) of an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent; wherein the pH of each day one of (a) and (b) is in the range from about pH 1 to 6 and wherein the pH of the composition is in the range of from about 1 to about 6 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is in the range of from about 1.5 to about 5.8, preferably from about 1.8 to about 5.5, more preferably from about 2 to about 5, more preferably from about 3.5 to approximately 4.5. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent is present at a molar level of about 0.0003 mole (per 100 g of composition) P835 to about 0.08 moles (per 100 g of composition), preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.06 moles, more preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.04 moles, more preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.03 moles , especially from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.02 moles and more especially from about 0.0003 to about 0.015 moles (per 100 g of composition). 4. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent is present at levels from about 0.01% to less than about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5%, in a form more preferably from about 0.01% to about 2%, still more preferably from about 0.01% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 0.8%, especially from about 0.01% to about 0.55% and so from about 0.01% to about 0.5% by weight of the total composition. P835 5. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. 6. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the combined, total level of hair coloring agent, oxidant is from about 0.001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 4%, in more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein each hair color oxidizing agent is present at levels from about 0.001% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight. 8. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, further comprising an organic peroxyacid oxidizing agent, preformed. 9. A composition according to the claim 8, wherein the preformed organic peroxyacid is present at a molar level from about 0.0001 mole to about 0.1 mole (per 100 g of the P835 composition), more preferably from about 0.001 mole to about 0.05 mole, more preferably from about 0.003 mole to about 0.04 mole, and especially from about 0.004 mole to about 0.03 mole per 100 g of the coloration composition of the hair. A composition according to claim 9, wherein the preformed organic peroxyacid is present at a level from about 0.01% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 6%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 4% and more preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight and wherein the weight ratio of the oxidizing agent Inorganic: the organic oxidizing agent is in the range from about 0.00125: 1 to about 500: 1, preferably from about 0.0125: 1 to about 50: 1. 11. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, further comprising one or more buffering agents, preferably an organic and / or inorganic acid having a first pKa below pH 6, selected from: acid P835 aspartic, maleic, tartaric, glutamic, glycolic, acetic, succinic, salicylic, formic, benzoic, malic, lactic, malonic, oxalic, citric, phosphoric and mixtures thereof, most preferably selected from acetic, succinic acid , salicylic, and phosphoric and mixtures thereof. 12. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, further comprising one or more surfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. 13. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, further comprising thickeners, stabilizers, antioxidant and / or any other cosmetically acceptable material. 14. The use of a composition according to any of claims 1 to 13, for coloring the human hair or animal hair. 15. A process for coloring human hair or animal hair wherein the hair coloring composition comprises: (a) from about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 100 g of composition) and an oxidizing agent P835 of inorganic peroxygen; (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent; and (c) a suitable diluent for the application of the hair. wherein the dye composition has the pH from about 1 to about 6. 16. A hair coloring kit comprising an individually packaged oxidizing component and an individually packaged dye component wherein the oxidizing component comprises an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent of peroxygen inorganic at a molar level of about 0.0003 mole (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6, and the coloring component comprises a hair coloring oxidizing agent, capable of distributing a pH of solution in the range from about 1 to about 6, and wherein the pH of the oxidizing agent, combined and the coloring components are in the range of from about 1 to about 6. The use of a coloring equipment P835 hair according to claim 16 for hair oxidation and coloration, wherein the inorganic oxidizing agent, the hair coloring oxidizing agents, and the additional agents are mixed before application to the hair. 18. A method for coloring the hair wherein a hair coloring mixture is applied directly to the hair and wherein the hair coloring mixture comprises: (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of about 0.0003 moles ( per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent at a pH of from about 1 to about 6; wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) has a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6, preferably from about 1.5 to 5.8, more preferably from about 2 to about 5, and in particular from from about 3.5 to about 4.5. P835 19. A hair coloring composition suitable for the distribution of a red matrix, comprising: (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of about 0.0003 mole (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent at a pH of from about 1 to about 6; where the hair changes color, delta E, it is less than about 5 after 20 washes. 20. A hair coloring composition suitable for the distribution of a light brown hue, comprising: (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of from about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidant hair coloring agent at a pH from about 1 to P835 approximately 6; where the hair changes color, delta E, is less than about 2.6 after 20 washes. 21. A hair coloring composition suitable for the distribution of a brown or black hue, comprising: (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of from about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent at a pH of from about 1 to about 6; where the hair color changes, delta E, is less than about 2.3 after 20 washes. 22. A hair coloring composition, comprising an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent and an oxidizing hair coloring agent wherein they change in delta E hair color, is greater than about 8, preferably, is greater than about 10, more preferably it is greater than about 12, especially it is greater than about 15, and in a more special way greater than P835 about 20, and where the hair color changes over time (colored hair),% Delta E (fading) is less than about 15% preferably less than about 12%, more preferably less than about 10%, especially less than about 8% from 20 washes. 23. A process capable of distributing a red hue to the hair, comprising: applying to the hair of a composition according to claim 1, comprising: (i) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of about 0.0003 moles (per 100) g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6; and (ii) an oxidant hair coloring agent at a pH from about 1 to about 6; wherein the untreated hair is light brown hair, pre-whitened, pre-treated for permanent, having values L, a, b, of approximately 60.9 and 32 and where the initial hue of the colored hair has a tone value ( tangent of arc of (b / a)) in the P835 ranges from about 25 to about 70, preferably from about 30 to about 65, and more preferably from about 35 to about 60 and wherein the initial color intensity (L) is greater than about 10 and less than about 70, preferably greater than about 15 and less than about 65, more preferably greater than about 20 and less than about 60 and wherein the delta fading E is less than about 5.0, in preferably about 4.5, in the form more preferably less than about 4.0 and wherein the change in hair color,% delta E, after 20 washes, is less than about 20%, and preferably less than about 15%, more preferably less than about 10% 24. A process capable of distributing a brown or black hue to the hair, comprising: the application to hair and a composition according to claim 1, comprising: (i) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition.) unless P835 about 0.09 moles (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6; and (ii) an oxidant hair coloring agent at a pH from about 1 to about 6; wherein the untreated hair is light brown hair, pre-whitened, pre-treated for permanent, having values L, a, b, of approximately 60.9 and 32 and where the initial hue of the colored hair has a tone value ( arc tangent of (b / a)) of less than about 25 preferably less than about 20, and wherein the initial color intensity (L) is greater than about 1 and less than about 50, preferably greater than about 5 and less than about 45, and wherein the delta fading E is less than about 2.3, preferably less than about 2.0, and more preferably less than about 1.7 and wherein the change in hair color,% delta E, after 20 washes, is less than about 5%, and preferably less than about 4.5%, more preferably less than about 4%. More preferably less than 3.5%. P835 25. A process capable of distributing a light brown tint to hair, comprising: the application to hair and a composition according to claim 1, comprising: (i) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6; and (ii) an oxidant hair coloring agent at a pH from about 1 to about 6; wherein the untreated hair is light brown hair, pre-whitened, pre-treated for permanent, having values L, a, b, of approximately 60.9 and 32 and where the initial hue of colored hair has a tone value ( arc tangent of (b / a)) of less than about 70 preferably less than about 110, and wherein the initial color intensity (L) is greater than about 20 and less than about 95, preferably more than about 25 and less than about 90, and wherein the delta fading E is less than about 2.6, preferably less than P835 about 2.3, and where the change in color,% delta E, after 20 washes, is less than about 15%, and preferably less than about 12%, more preferably less than about 10%, more preferred less than 8%. 26. A method for coloring the hair at a pH of ranges from about 1 to about 6, comprising applying to the hair of a composition according to claim 1 comprising: (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level from about 0.0003 mole (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent at a pH of from about 1 to about 6; (c) even a diluent suitable for the application of the hair; and wherein the pH of (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1 to about pH 6. 27. A method of coloring the hair to a P835 pH in the range from about 1 to about 6, comprising the application to the hair of a composition according to claim 1, comprising: (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of about 0.0003 moles (per 100 g) of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent at a pH of from about 1 to about 6; (c) even a diluent suitable for the application of the hair; and wherein the component (b) is applied to the hair, with or without a portion of the component (c), before the application of the components (a) and (b), and wherein the combined pH of (a), (b) and (c) is in the range of from about 1 to about pH 6. 28. A method for coloring the hair at a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6, comprising applying to the hair a composition according to Claim 1, comprising: P835 (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of from about 0.0003 mole (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent at a pH of from about 1 to about 6; (c) a diluent suitable for the application of the hair; and wherein the component (a) is applied to the hair, with or without a portion of the component (c), before the application of the components (b) and (c), and wherein the combined pH of (a), (b) and (c) is in the range of from about 1 to about pH 6. 29. A method for coloring the hair wherein the hair coloring mixture according to claim 1 is present in an individual package and is directly applied. to the hair 30. A method for coloring the hair, wherein the hair coloring composition according to claim 1, is present as separately packaged components (a) and (b), wherein (a) and (b) comprise: P835 (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent at a molar level of from about 0.0003 mole (per 100 g of composition) to less than about 0.09 mole (per 100 g of composition) having a pH in the range from about 1 to about 6; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent at a pH of from about 1 to about 6; wherein each of (a) and (b) are stable at pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6, and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) is stable over time and has a pH in the range from about 1 to about 6. 31. a hair coloring composition, comprising: (a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agent; and (b) an oxidizing hair coloring agent; wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1 to about 6, wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) have a pH in the range from about 1 to P835 about 6, wherein (a) and (b) are in the form of a proposed use, and wherein the molar level of (a) is from about 0.0003 moles (per lOOg of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles ( per lOOg of composition). 32. The use of a composition according to any of claims 1 to 13, for coloring textiles and / or fibers. P835
MXPA/A/1999/005973A 1996-12-23 1999-06-23 Hair coloring compositions MXPA99005973A (en)

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