EP1117376A1

EP1117376A1 - Use of a boldo extract in a cosmetic or dermatological product

Info

Publication number: EP1117376A1
Application number: EP99950583A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Gilles Pauly
Original assignee: Laboratoires Serobiologiques SA
Current assignee: BASF Health and Care Products France SAS
Priority date: 1998-10-05
Filing date: 1999-10-01
Publication date: 2001-07-25
Also published as: KR20010079933A; CN1329482A; FR2784027A1; AU6331499A; WO2000019973A1; JP2002526395A; ID28486A; FR2784027B1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a boldo extract in a cosmetic or dermatological product and to a product that contains said extract. The invention specifically relates to the use of a boldo extract as an active ingredient on its own or added to at least one other active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological product for preventative or curative treatment of ageing symptoms in tissue by local or external application on skin, nails and/or hair.

Description

Use of a boldo extract in a cosmetic or dermatological product

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic and dermatological products or preparations, in particular those which are effective for the treatment of signs of aging of the tissue and the object of which is to use a bold extract for the treatment of signs of aging of the tissue and a cosmetic or dermatological product which contains such an extract.

The boldo tree (Peumus boldus Mol.) Is a small bush tree belonging to the Monimiaceae family that grows spontaneously on the sunny Chilean hills. The boldo tree is used as a medicinal plant in conventional medicine.

For example, in the Andes the Boldo leaves are used as herbal tea against hepatic diseases and intestinal poisoning, as cataplasma on the temples for headaches and migraines, as a bath against rheumatism and as decoction (decoction) as an emetic. The Boldo leaves are used as a diuretic, gastric tonic (stomach agent) and as a sedative (sedative).

In addition, the leaves are used as a worming agent (anthelmintic) and the juice obtained from the leaves is used as a instillation in the ear (instillation) to treat ear infections (otitis).

According to the specialist literature, boldo leaves contain 1.2% tannins, 2-3% essential oils (45% askaridol and 30% cineol and a mixture of numerous terpenes), flavonoids or flavonic glycosides (pneumoside, boldoside, fragoside were separated / isolated). ..) and 0.25-0.50% aporphine alkaloids, with boldine being the main alkaloid (25% of the total alkaloid content). It was recently announced that Boldine has a choleretic and cholagogical effect (DE-2 547 243) and a relaxing effect on smooth muscle (Speisky and Cassels, Pharmalogical Research -Pharmacological Research, Volume 29, N ° 1, 1 -12 , 1994).

Boldine has also been assigned an anti-oxidizing property, a neutralizing effect of free radicals and a peroxidizing inhibiting effect (inhibit) (P-450 cytochrome system, microsomal membrane).

In addition, a hepato-protective and anti-inflammatory effect from the hydroalcoholic extracts of the Boldo leaves was specified (Bruneton, "Pharmacognosie, Phytochimie, Plantes mέdicinales" - "Pharmacognosie, Phytochemie, Heilkräuter", 2nd edition, Lavoisier, Paris, 1 993, 737-739 / Wichtl, "Teedrogen und Phytopharmaka", 3rd ed., Wissenschaftliche Verlagsgesellschaft, 1 997, 1 1 0-1 1 2) and Boldine was used to treat medicinal hepatotoxicity (hepatotoxicity) and autoimmune and inflammatory diseases (Speisky and Cassels, 1994 - mentioned above).

Finally, document US-5 348 755 discloses the use of boldine as an anti-oxidant in edible oils, and documents US-4 1 85 1 19 and US-5 594 033 each mention an anti-allergic and an anti-rhythmic property by Boldine.

But despite the numerous pharmaceutical and therapeutic applications, no specific application in the field of cosmetic products or dermatology has been mentioned.

But the authors of the present invention have unexpectedly and surprisingly found that boldo extracts, especially those composed of aporphine alkaloids, and especially boldine, have many other properties and remarkable effects besides the above-mentioned properties that make these extracts particularly effective Means to combat various phenomena and reactions that make occur with signs of aging of the tissue, especially those caused or accelerated by the sun's rays.

Therefore, the main object of the present invention is the use of a bold extract as an active agent, added alone or at least one other active agent, for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological product for the preventive or curative treatment of aging symptoms of the tissue, with topical external application for skin, nails and / or hair.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bold extract used consists of boldine or an extract enriched with boldine, in particular the extract obtained from boldo leaves.

The remarkable properties and effects of the boldo extracts, especially Boldine, have been established by various tests, which are described in more detail below.

O. EFFECTS ON HUMAN FIBROBLAST GROWTH IN IN VITRO CULTURE

1) Working method

Human fibroblasts were inoculated into a defined culture medium (DMEM). After a 24-hour incubation at 37 ° C in a 5% CO 2 atmosphere, Boldine (for example, but not limited to, Boldine commercialized by SIGMA, reference B391 6, pack # 94H10481) was added to two different concentrations.

After a 3-day incubation at 37 ° C. and in a 5% CO2 atmosphere, the growth of the fibroblasts was evaluated by counting the cells using a particle counter and by enzymatic dosing of ATP. The calf fetus serum (SVF), which contains numerous growth factors (IGF, PDGF etc.) and nutrients (glucose, proteins, amino acids etc.), was tested as a positive test measure in these tests with human fibroblasts (in growth and survival). used in vitro.

2) Results achieved with Boldine (in% in relation to the control center

Boldine concentration Number of fibroblasts ATP content (% p.v) (*) (*)

0% = control m. 100 100

0.001% 105 1 16

0.003% 1 10 1 24

(*) Average of 3 attempts in 3 copies

3) Results achieved with the serum of calf fetuses (SVF) (in% relative to the control center)

SVF concentration Number of fibroblasts ATP content

(% v / v) (*) (*)

0% = control m. 100 100

00,, 11 %% 11 1122 1 25

0.3% 135 1 55

(*) Average of 3 attempts in 3 copies

The study of these tables shows that Boldine has significantly stimulated the growth and metabolism (metabolism) of human in vitro fibroblasts. Although tested in doses ten times smaller than that of SVF, Boldine has shown an effect comparable to SVF, although the intensity was moderate. II. EFFECT OF IMPROVING THE SURVIVAL OF HUMAN IN-VITRO FIBROBLASTS

The improvement in survival was evaluated on a culture saturated with fibroblasts. During saturation, the proliferation of the fibroblasts is subjected to a so-called "contact" block. The test enables a certain number of parameters to be quantified on the resting (quiesced) cells:

general metabolic activity by measuring the ATP content, protein synthesis,

- glutathione synthesis,

1) Working method

The fibroblasts were inoculated into the defined culture medium (DMEM). Boldine was added to the culture 72 hours after inoculation. The stated parameters were evaluated after a 72-hour incubation at 37 ° C. in a 5% CO 2 atmosphere.

ATP was dosed by an enzymatic, chemiluminescent system (Kemp, 1 986), the proteins were dosed by the Bradford colorimetric reaction (Bradford, 1986) and the reduced glutathione (GSH) was measured with a fluorescent probe, the orthophthalaldehyde (Hissin and Hilf , 1976).

Please note: The GSH content in mg proteins is then given in% / untreated control agent.

2) Results achieved with Boldine (in% in relation to um

Control means

Boldine concentration ATP content Protein content GSH content

(% p / v) (*) (*) (*)

0% = control m. 100 100 100

0.002% 131 1 57 96

0.005% 166 201 100 (*) Average of 2 attempts in 3 copies

3) Results achieved with the serum from calf fetus (SVF) (in% in

Relation to control means)

SVF concentration ATP content protein gene; old GSH content

(% v / v) (*) (*) (*)

Control m 100 100 100

0.1% 123 108 105

0.3% 140 1 17 1 20

(*) Average of 3 attempts in 3 copies

Boldine has stimulated the synthesis of ATP, proteins and GSH. With regard to ATP and GSH, Boldine, although tested in doses 50 times smaller than that of the SVF, has shown effects comparable to those of the SVF. With regard to proteins, Boldine's stimulation was also greater than that achieved for SVF.

The results of Sections I and II prove that it is interesting to use Boldine in care cosmetology (skin care, hair care, nail care) and its predictable effect in cosmetic preparations with topical application for combating skin and hair aging or in the treatment of skin, hair, tired phaners, the metabolism and protein synthesis of which require stimulation.

St. "ANTI-PROTEASE" ACTIVITY

The proteases secreted by the neutrophil polymorphonuclear (PMN) during inflammation or by the fibroblasts exposed to UV-A radiation cause a degradation of the proteins that structure the extracellular matrix of the dermis. 1) Anti-collaoenase test in tubo (Van Wart and Koll .. Anal. Biochem .. 1 1 3. 356-365. 1981)

The polymorphonuclear white blood cells (leukocytes) (PMN) and the "old" or irradiated fibroblasts secrete collagenases during inflammation. The tests were carried out with a Clostridium histolyticum collagenase and a synthetic chromogenic substrate: the FALGPA. The incubation time is 30 minutes at room temperature and the optical density is measured at 324 nm. The inhibitor test measure tested as a comparison is cysteine.

Concentrations in% (p / v) results in% inhibition

Test agent 0 boldine at 0.03% 1 boldine at 0.1% 40 boldine at 0.3% 100

CI50 in% p / v 0.12%

Cysteine concentration (in% p / v) results in% inhibition (p / v)

0 0

1, 8 44 2.6 63 3.5 77

CI50 in% p / v 2.0%

These results represent another advantageous property of Boldine in favor of the use of Boldine in cosmetology to combat photoinduced or immanent signs of aging of the skin and / or the phaners. IV) "ANTI-SUBSTANCE P" ACTIVITY

1) Inhibition of substance P “ex vivo” (Ebertz and Kolk. Journal of Investigative Dermatologv - Journal of Research Dermatology. 88 (6). 682-685. 1987)

Substance P is a neuropeptide released by certain sensory nerve fibers of the skin after irritation. This peptide acts on specific recipients that are present on the cells of the skin (fibroblasts, keratinocytes, Langerhans cells) in order to induce either a strong increase (proliferation) (fibroblasts and keratinocytes) or an immunomodulation (Langerhans cells). Substance P initiates the release of histamine on the mastocytes, which is responsible for the erythema observed in vivo. This phenomenon was evaluated on biopsies of the skin incubated at 37 ° C in the presence of substance P. The released histamine is dosed by an ELISA technique.

Concentration content d. % control released in% (p / v) histamines in micromoles per liter per biopsy

Control agent 0.8 0

Control m + Substance P 1, 4 1 00

Substance P + Boldine at 0.01% 1, 3 8 1

Substance P + Boldine at 0.1% 1, 2 69

These results clearly demonstrate the advantage of using Boldine locally in cosmetology to relieve sensitive skin irritated by chemical substances (pollution) or physical stress (UV, heat, dryness) or psychosomatic disorders. V) "ANTI-GLYCATION" ACTIVITY

1) Inhibition of glvcation "in tubo" (Deyl and Koll., Mechanisms of Aging & Development - Mechanisms of the Altems & Development. 55 (1). 39-47. 1 990 / Monnier and Koll .. Proceedings of the National Academv of Sciences of the USA. 81 (1). 583-587. 1984)

The non-enzymatic glycation of the proteins is a crucial process in the aging of human tissue and explains the reticulation of the extra-cellular matrix and the basement membrane, which are largely responsible for the pathologies observed in diabetics. The Schiff bases also catalyze the production of reactive forms of oxygen that exacerbate the effects of non-enzymatic glycation. The tubo tests were performed on type I collagen, which had been incubated for 21 days at 45 ° C in the presence of 1% glucose. The content of the Schiff bases was evaluated by fluorimetry at 430 nm (excitation at 350 nm). The glucose content determined by the collagen was evaluated by thiobarbiturate acid (densitometry at 443 nm).

Concentration results in% in relation to the control agent in% (p / v) fluorescence-bound glucose

0% = control m. 100 100

Boldine at 0.01% 78 77

Boldine at 0.1% 48 42

Aminoguanidine was also tested as a positive test measure in this glycation model in tubo. Aminoguanidine results in% relative to the control agent

concentration

(in% p / v) fluorescence bound glucose

0% = control m. 100 100

0.003% 98 101

0.01% 95 115

0.03% 70 112

0.1% 24 126

Examination of these tables shows that Boldine is 0.01% more active than aminoguanidines in terms of the fluorescence of the Schiff bases and in terms of the content of the glucose bound on the collagen.

These results prove that topical application of Boldine in care cosmetology is interesting to reduce the signs of aging (real or photo-induced) on the proteins of the extra-cellular matrix of the skin (skin and hair care).

VI) PREVENTION OF APOPTOSE INDUCTION

1) principle

Apoptosis is an active, biological process that is used by living organisms to remove tissue from certain cells through autolysis, and particularly by destroying proteins and nuclear ADN into small fragments that are salted out in the cytoplasm.

Apoptosis can be induced by an oxidative stress (UV-R, inflammation), by a deprivation of the growth factors or by toxic substances (pollutants, genotoxic substances etc. ...). The principle of these experiments was to demonstrate the ability of a substance to reduce the rate of apoptosis introduced into a cell culture medium in vitro.

The apoptosis inducer used for this study was the deprivation of growth factors: this mechanism would be at least partially responsible for the aging of the tissue due to the disappearance of the living cells.

2) operation

a) Preparation of the cells

Human A549 epithelial cells in saturated cell covers were used for this test.

In JO, the cells were given a culture medium without serum, which contained the various substance concentrations to be tested, and were incubated at 37 ° C. for 4 days. A portion of cells that received calf serum media (containing growth factors) were used as a negative control agent. Thereafter, the cells were recovered by trypsination to be stained and analyzed in flow cytometry.

b) Quantification of the number of apoptotic cells in flow cytometry (R. Olivier, Methods in Enzymol. Volume 251, Chap. 24, 270-278, 1995)

In the apoptosis studies, it is necessary to evaluate not only the content of the apoptosis cells (apoptosis rate), but also the content of the necrosis cells (necrosis rate) to confirm that the inhibition of apoptosis initiation (induction) does not occur is due to a transition to necrosis. * Method 1: staining with fluorescent probes

In this method, the cells are stained simultaneously with an ethidium bromide (5 micrograms / ml) and acridine orange solution (1.5 micrograms / ml).

The necrosis cells are stained by ethidium bromide, while the living cells are stained only by acridine orange. In addition, the living cells are separated into two populations according to the fluorescence intensity of acridine orange in relation to the quantity of ADN: the apoptotic cells with weak fluorescence and the non-apoptotic cells with strong fluorescence.

* Method 2: Quantification by "Sub-Gl" maximum (peak)

In this method, part of the cells are treated with trypan blue under a conventional microscope to stain and count the number of necrosis cells.

The other part of the cells is made permeable and then stained with an ethidium bromide solution (5 micrograms / ml) and quantified in flow cytometry. In this part, the apoptotic cells appear in the form of a maximum (peak), which is called "Sub-Gl", because they have an ADN content which is smaller in relation to the non-apoptotic cells. The maximum (peak) is called "Sub-G1" because it occurs just before the Gl peak in the frequency chart (histogram) of the studies of the cell cycle. The GO / GI peak corresponds to the cells at rest or at the beginning of the cycle that contain only one copy of their genetic material. The G2 / M peak corresponds to the cells that have their genetic material in duplicate or already during mitosis (separation of the two daughter cells). The G0 / G1 and G2 / M peaks are separated by a tray containing the cells in the intermediate phase S of the synthesis of their second copy of the genetic material (after F. Lacombe, 1992). 3) results

Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying drawings graphically depict the inhibition by Boldine of apoptosis that was introduced into human A549 cells by deprivation of the growth factors that would become apparent by flow cytometry (statistics: average +/- SEM on 3 attempts / test t by student / (*) = p <0.05).

The graphics of FIGS. 1 and 2 must be interpreted in relation to the control agent proportions given in the tables below.

Content in% (average +/- SEM over 3 trials

Staining control (without reference calf serum) (calf serum)

Menicht-apoptot. tholiving cells 67 +/- 3 70 +/- 3 de 1 apoptotic living cells 1 5 +/- 4 2 +/- 0

Necrosis cells 16 +/- 2 25 +/- 3

Content in% (average +/- SEM over 3 trials

Staining control (without reference calf serum) (calf serum)

Living cells 74 +/- 7 79 +/- 5

tho-living apoptode 2 table cells 16 +/- 4 2 +/- 0 necrosis cells 26 +/- 7 21 +/- 5 With method 1 (FIG. 1), the deprivation of cells of growth factors caused the apoptosis rate to increase from 2 to 15%. In the cells treated with Boldine, the apoptosis rate for the 5 mg / l dose dropped to 4%.

With method 2 (FIG. 2), the lack of cells on growth factors caused the apoptosis rate to increase from 2 to 16%. In the cells treated with Boldine, the apoptosis rate for the 5 mg / l dose dropped to 4%.

These results demonstrate that Boldine, as well as the calf serum, have significant abilities to reduce the rate of apoptosis that has been introduced into the culture medium of human cells without growth factors.

In addition, this effect of the boldine is not due to a transfer of apoptosis to necrosis, since the rate of cells in the necrosis changes little after the dose of boldine.

The effects and positive activities of the boldine or an extract enriched with boldine, which have recently been found by the inventors and are mentioned below, consequently contain a very strong, stimulating (stimulating) activity of the metabolism (metabolism) (especially the stimulation of the ATP- Synthesis, the GSH-reduced glutathione and the proteins), an anti-glycation activity of the collagen and the cutaneous proteins and a pronounced stimulating effect of cell growth.

This astonishing combination of beneficial effects on mechanisms that occur as accompanying factors in the aging process of the cells emphasizes that it is interesting to use Boldine in a small amount in order to prevent or heal signs of aging in the tissue, especially the skin cells.

In addition, the additional activities confer the boldine or an extract enriched with boldine, which is also mentioned above and have recently been discovered or verified by the inventors, such as anti-protease activity (especially anti-collagenase), anti-P substance activity and inhibition of induction of apoptosis, give the boldine additional biological Properties, especially anti-stress, soothing, protective and regenerating effects on the skin, especially after sun exposure.

The invention consequently also relates to the particularly advantageous use of the boldins in a product which preferably treats the real or photo-induced aging of the tissue, particularly in the area of the skin.

In addition, the aim of the invention is also a cosmetic or dermatological product for the treatment of signs of aging of the tissue, particularly photo-induced, characterized in that it is added as an active agent, alone or at least to another active agent, a cosmetically or dermatologically contains an effective amount of a boldo extract, preferably boldine or an extract enriched with boldine.

According to a feature of the invention, which particularly takes into account the experimental results mentioned above, the cosmetic or dermatological product advantageously contains between 0.0001% and 10% in weight of boldine, preferably between 0.001% and 2% in weight.

According to a first variant of the invention, boldine is present in the form of a hydropolyolic solution or in vectorized form (liposomes, nanospheres, nanocapsules, microspheres, microcapsules, micelles and the like).

According to a second embodiment of the invention, boldine is present in a form substituted for example by amino acids, sugars, lipids or peptides. As non-limiting examples of the practice of the invention, various products or cosmetic compositions containing boldine as the only active agent or added to at least one other agent are described below.

Example 1 :

A cosmetic product according to the invention in the form of hair tonic for protection or stimulation can have, for example, a weight composition as indicated below:

formula

- Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.20

- propylene glycol 2.00

- Ketostearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 5.00

- Lipodermol 1.00 - Cetrimonium chloride 1.00

- Glycol stearate 2.00

- qs preservative (sufficient amount)

- Hydrolysed wheat protein 1, 00

- Boldine 0.005 - water qsp (sufficient amount for) 100.00

The process for the preparation and manufacture of the above-mentioned water (lotion) consists mainly in heating all fat bodies (ketostearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, lipodermol and glycol stearate) to 75 ° C., the mixture of water and propylene glycol Heat 70 ° C, dissolve the hydroxyethyl cellulose, the cetrimonium chloride, the preservative, boldine and the hydrolyzed wheat protein in this mixture and at this temperature, pour the fat phase into the aqueous phase with stirring and continue stirring until the the resulting lotion has cooled completely. Example 2:

For example, a cosmetic product according to the invention in the form of a stimulating, regenerating night cream for wrinkles may have a weight composition as set forth below.

Formula:

Fat phase

- Glycerol stearate (and) ketostearyl alcohol

(and) ketylic palmitate (and) coconut glycerides 1 2.00

- PEG-20 glycerol stearate 2.00 - ceteareth-20 1.00

- octyldodecanol 3.00

- Karite oil 3.00

- Dioctylcyclohexane 4.00

Aqueous phase

- glycerin 3.00

- Vegeseryl <6 ⁾ HGP: soy protein (soy glycine) 5.00

- Boldine 0.20 - Elestab 388 (preservative) 1, 50

- Water qsp (sufficient amount for) 100.00

- perfume qs (sufficient amount)

The process for the preparation and manufacture of the above-mentioned cream consists mainly of heating the components of the fatty phase to 80 ° C, heating the mixture of water + glycerin + preservative to 80 ° C and dissolving the fat phase therein by stirring Pour into the aqueous phase under turbine stirring, allow the resulting mixture to cool, add Vegeseryl (£) HGP at 60 ° C, add the perfume at 45 ° C and finally continue cooling to room temperature. Example 3:

For example, a cosmetic product according to the invention in the form of a protective, anti-irritating day cream for sensitive skin may contain a weight composition as set forth below.

Formula:

Fat phase

- Glycerol SE stearate 1 6.00

- Ceteareth-12 1.00

- octyldodecanol 6.00 - isopropyl myristate 4.00

Aqueous phase

- Glycerin 6.00 - Boldine 0.30

- methyl paraben 0.20

- Propylparaben 0.10

- Imidazolidinyl urea 0.30

- water 65.80 - perfume 0.30

The process for the preparation and manufacture of the cream mentioned above can consist of heating the components of the fatty phase to 80 ° C, heating the water and glycerol to 75 ° C and in this mixture at this temperature the methyl paraben and the propyl paraben and then dissolve the imidazolidinyl urea, then dissolve the boldine in this mixture, just before it is brought into the form of an emulsion, pour the fat phase into the aqueous phase with turbine stirring, then gradually cool the mixture obtained by stirring the turbines and planets, add the perfume at 45 ° C and then let it cool at room temperature. Example 4:

A cosmetic product according to the invention in the form of a protective, anti-glycation and anti-protease cream against signs of aging can, for example, have a weight composition as stated below.

formula

Fat phase

- Stearic alcohol (and) steareth-7 (and

Steareth-1 0 4.00 - glyceryl stearate (and) ceteth 20 2.00

- Avocado oil 3.00

- Stearyl alcohol 2.00

- Caprine / caprylic triglycerides 3, 00

- Hexyl laurate 2.00 - Isopropyl stearin 2.00

- Paraffin oil 1 1, 00

- Ketyldimeticones 1, 00

Aqueous phase

- Allantoin 0.10

- Boldine 0.30

- Butylene glycol 5.00

- Elestab R 41 12 (preservative) 0.35 - water qsp (sufficient amount for) 100.00

The process for the preparation and manufacture of the above-mentioned cream can consist of heating the components of the fatty phase to 80 ° C with stirring, heating the mixture of water + butylene glycol + preservative to 80 ° C and dissolving the allantoin and boldine therein , the fat phase into the aqueous phase Pour turbine stirring and finally cool the resulting mixture gradually to room temperature while stirring.

Example 5:

For example, a cosmetic product according to the invention in the form of a tonic can have a weight composition as set out below.

Formula:

- propylene glycol 5.00

- Virginiana witch hazel water 5.00

- Boldine 0.10 - Elestab R 50J (preservative) 0.40

- perfume qs (sufficient amount)

- PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil qs

- distilled water qsp (sufficient amount for) 100.00

The process for the preparation and manufacture of the above-mentioned lotion consists mainly of heating the distilled water and the glycol propylene to 50 ° C and dissolving the preservative and the boldins therein, and then dissolving the perfume and the dissolver (castor oil) while stirring Add witch hazel water and stir until cool and then filter.

Example 6:

For example, a cosmetic product according to the invention in the form of an anti-apoptosis emulsion may have a weight composition as set forth below.

Formula:

Fat phase

- PEG-25 PABA 5.00

- Ceteareth-6 (and) stearin alcohol 2.00 - Ceteareth-25 2.00

- Cetyl alcohol 1.00

- Glyceryl stearate SE 6.00

- paraffin oil 5.00

- octanoic acid (capryl) / decanoic acid (caprrinyl)

Triglycerides 5.00

- Dimethicone 0.20

Aqueous phase

- Boldine 0.20

- Butyl glycol 5.00

- Elestab®388 (preservative) 1, 50

- Allantoin 0.1 5 - perfume 0.20

- distilled water qsp (sufficient amount for) 100.00

The process for the preparation and preparation of the above-mentioned emulsion can consist of heating the components of the fatty phase to 80 ° C. with stirring, heating the water to 80 ° C. and stirring the butylene glycol, the preservative, the allantoin and the Add Boldine, pour the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with turbine stirring, gradually cool the resulting mixture, add the perfume at about 45 ° C and finally continue stirring until completely cooled.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the described embodiments. Changes remain possible, especially with regard to the composition of the various elements or by replacing technically equivalent substances, without departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims

PATENT CLAIMS

1) The use of a Boldo extract as an active agent (active ingredient), added alone or at least one other active agent, for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological product for the preventive or curative treatment of the signs of aging of the tissue, for external, local use for the Skin, nails and / or hair.

2) Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the boldo extract consists of boldine or an extract enriched with boldine.

3) Use according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the extract has a stimulating activity on the

Metabolism (metabolism), as well as stimulating activity on cell growth.

4) Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract is also an anti-glycation

Has activity of the collagen and cutaneous proteins.

5) Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract also has an anti-collagenase activity.

6) Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract also has an anti-apoptosis activity.

7) Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the extract also has an anti-P substance activity.

8) Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological product consists of a product that particularly treats real or photo-induced signs of aging in the tissue.

9) Cosmetic or dermatological product for the treatment of signs of aging of the tissue, especially the photo-induced, characterized in that it is added as an active agent (active ingredient), alone or at least one other active agent, an amount effective in the cosmetic and dermatological field contains a boldo extract.

1 0) Cosmetic or dermatological product according to claim 9, characterized in that the boldo extract consists of boldine or an extract enriched with boldine.

1 1) Cosmetic or dermatological product according to any one of claims 9 to 10, characterized in that it contains between 0.0001% and 10% in weight, preferably between 0.001% and 2% in weight boldine.

12) Cosmetic or dermatological product according to any one of claims 10 and 1 1, characterized in that boldine occurs in the form of hydropolyolic or vectorized solution.

1 3) Cosmetic or dermatological product according to any one of claims 10 and 1 1, characterized in that boldine occurs in a form substituted by, for example, amino acid, sugar, lipids or peptides.