Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
  • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
  • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
  • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
  • D04H1/4326—Condensation or reaction polymers
  • D04H1/4334—Polyamides
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
  • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
  • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
  • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
  • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
  • D04H1/43918—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres nonlinear fibres, e.g. crimped or coiled fibres
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/02—Linings
  • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
  • D02G1/12—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using stuffer boxes
  • D02G1/122—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using stuffer boxes introducing the filaments in the stuffer box by means of a fluid jet
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
  • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
  • D02G1/161—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam yarn crimping air jets
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
  • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
  • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
  • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
  • D04H1/50—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by treatment to produce shrinking, swelling, crimping or curling of fibres

Definitions

• the invention relates to the use of three-dimensional crimped fibers for the manufacture of reinforcing fabrics such as reinforcing fabrics for clothing and the fabrics or fabrics thus obtained.
• reinforcing fabrics which are also called reinforcing fabric, it is necessary to understand in particular fabrics with plain and twill weave, non-woven textile surfaces, felts, or surfaces with a quilted appearance used in particular as upholstery fabrics and support in making-up clothing.
• reinforcing fabrics can be used in other applications without departing from the scope of the invention.
• These reinforcing fabrics are used in the manufacture of clothing to improve the holding of the clothing, its aesthetic appearance and its comfort.
• These reinforcement or interlining fabrics can be produced from continuous threads, spun fibers or fibers obtained from natural material, artificial material or synthetic material.
• continuous threads are crimped threads.
• Yarns or crimped fibers are generally used to give volume to the reinforcing fabric.
• the crimped fibers used are fibers of synthetic material, such as polyamide fibers, the crimping of which is generally obtained by mechanical crimping, it that is, the fibers have a two-dimensional crimp.
• This two-dimensional crimp has drawbacks because it generates a limited swelling effect.
• the curvature of each crimp is very pronounced, forming points which, when touched, give a sensation similar to that generated by the ends of the fibers.
• One of the aims of the present invention is to eliminate these drawbacks by proposing reinforcing fabrics or nonwoven interlining having greater bulk and an improved appearance.
• the invention proposes the use of fibers with three-dimensional crimping of a title between 0.9 dtex and 5 dtex obtained by spinning a composition based on polyamide for the production of non-woven reinforcement fabrics used in particular. in making clothes.
• the nonwoven reinforcement fabrics used as interlining can comprise a nonwoven surface coated on at least one face with a binder or adhesive composition for fixing it to the garment fabric. It can comprise several layers of nonwoven fabrics linked together in a manner known per se. These nonwoven fabrics can also be combined with other textile surfaces of different types for the production of the interlining.
• the interlining or nonwoven fabrics in accordance with the invention may include other fibers, whether or not crimped, of the same or different material. They can also be associated with threads or spun with continuous fibers.
• the nonwoven surfaces of the invention have a basis weight between 10 g / m 2 and 200 g / m 2 , preferably between 20 and 100 g / m 2 .
• the crimped fibers used for the production of a interlining have a titer advantageously between 0.9 and 3.3 dtex.
• the crimped fibers of the invention are obtained by spinning a composition based on a synthetic material such as advantageously a polyamide or copolyamide.
• polyamides or copolyamides suitable for the invention mention may be made of polyadipamide of hexamethylene, polycaprolactam, the copolymers of these two polyamides or their mixtures. These polyamides may also include other repeating units such as aromatic sulfonate units such as the recurring unit derived from 5-isophthalic acid or the like, or units derived from other dicarboxylic acids such as iso or terephthalic acids or diamines . Other polyamides can also be mentioned, such as PA 6.10; PA 4.6; PA 11 or PA 12.
• the polyamides can also be used with various additives such as pigments, matifiers, heat or light stabilizers, heat protection agents, anti-microbial agents, anti-fouling agents or the like. This list is not exhaustive.
• polyadipamide of hexamethylene By way of preferred polyamide, mention will be made of polyadipamide of hexamethylene, polycaprolactam, copolyamides or mixtures mainly comprising units of adipamide of hexamethylene or of polycaprolactam.
• the fibers can have various cross-sectional shapes such as round, multi-lobed.
• the section may also include depressions.
• the fibers are generally obtained from a single material. However, they can also be obtained from two or more materials, these fibers are called composite or two-component fibers of the "side by side” or "heart / skin” type.
• the process for manufacturing crimped fibers used in the invention consists in spinning a large number of filaments through dies which are taken up in the form of a roving. The number of filaments per wick can vary within a wide range. This number is often more than 100.
• the locks are either fed directly into a drawing and crimping device, or several locks are combined to make a sheet which will be fed into the drawing and crimping devices.
• the locks or plies can be cut directly into fibers of short length (a few millimeters), or stored to be cut into fibers in a subsequent step.
• the drawing rate applied to the fibers can vary within a large proportion, for example the drawing rate can be between 1 and 5.
• the fibers are subjected to a pneumatic crimping described below, generating a three-dimensional crimp making it possible to obtain fibers with a voluminous appearance, and with a conservation of the crimp ratio even under high tension.
• the three-dimensional crimp is a crimp located at least in two intersecting planes and which also generates curls or folds of the fiber in the shape of a pigtail. This form of crimping makes it possible to obtain nonwovens with a high swelling appearance.
• the process of the invention is, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, a continuous and integrated process which comprises the steps of spinning, drawing, crimping and cutting in line.
• the spinning speed can vary from 500 m / min to
• the spinning temperature is between 250 ° C and 300 ° C.
• the filaments leaving the die are cooled by a fluid which is advantageously air.
• the filaments after convergence in the form of a wick or sheet are subjected to drawing, the rate of which is advantageously between 1 and 5, preferably between 2 and 4.
• This stretching is generally carried out between two or more trains of rolls, heated or not. It can be carried out cold or at a temperature of up to 120 ° C.
• the stretched filaments are fed in a crimping or texturing step according to the principle of pneumatic piling described in particular in French Patent No. 2,041,654.
• the filaments are entrained by a fluid heated to a temperature above 100 ° C. in a nozzle, the filaments being taken up on a drive roller at the nozzle outlet at a speed lower than the speed of entry of the filaments into the nozzle.
• the filaments pile up in the nozzle forming folds, the driving fluid escaping laterally through orifices provided on the wall of the nozzle.
• the crimped wick is developed and then fed into cutting means to produce fibers of determined length, for example, advantageously between 5 and 200 mm.
• the method of the invention makes it possible to obtain filaments then fibers comprising three-dimensional crimps, but with a minimum of entanglement between the filaments.
• the fibers are easily individualized and compatible to be used in particular for the manufacture of nonwoven.
• Three-dimensional crimp fibers are made by spinning a copolymer comprising 98% PA 6.6 and 2% PA 6 having a relative viscosity after drying of 2.7 (the viscosity is measured using a solution of polymer in 96% sulfuric acid).
• Spinning is carried out using dies comprising 180 holes with a diameter of 0.3 mm.
• the spinning speed is 660 m / min.
• the wick of 180 filaments is fed in a roller drawing process.
• the draw rate applied is 3.
• the wick is then supplied in a pneumatic texturing process in which air is supplied at 260 ° C under a pressure of 9 bars.
• the curly wick is directly fed into a cutting system.
• the fibers obtained have a titer of 2.8 dtex, a tenacity of 42 cN / tex, an elongation of 54%, and a contraction of the crimps of 12%.
• the fibers are used for the manufacture of a nonwoven used as interlining in clothing.
• Three-dimensional crimped fibers are obtained according to the process described in Example 1 but using as polyamide a polyamide 6 with a relative viscosity equal to 2.7 (measured in H2SO4 at 96%).
• the polyamide also contains 0.3% by weight of Ti ⁇ 2 as a polishing agent.
• the spinning speed is 870 m / min the stretching rate applied is equal to 3.
• the air supplied to the pneumatic crimping device is at a temperature of 240 ° C. and a pressure of 9 bars.
• the curled wick is returned to a reel at a speed of 2300 m / min.
• the wick thus obtained is unwound in a cutting device after having undergone a heat treatment and depositing a size.
• the fibers obtained have a titer of 1.7 dtex, a tenacity of 50 cN / tex and an elongation of 74%. The contraction of the crimps is 14.5%. These fibers are used for the manufacture of a nonwoven for interlining.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
• Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=9527416

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (5)

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Citations (2)

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• 1998
  • 1998-06-11 FR FR9807534A patent/FR2779746B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1999
  • 1999-06-04 WO PCT/FR1999/001313 patent/WO1999064650A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1999-06-04 CN CNB998084182A patent/CN1152985C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1999-06-04 EP EP99923664A patent/EP1090174A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 1999-06-04 AU AU40450/99A patent/AU4045099A/en not_active Abandoned

Patent Citations (2)

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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