EP0858268A1 - Chemise/chemisier avec col - Google Patents

Chemise/chemisier avec col

Info

Publication number
EP0858268A1
EP0858268A1 EP96924754A EP96924754A EP0858268A1 EP 0858268 A1 EP0858268 A1 EP 0858268A1 EP 96924754 A EP96924754 A EP 96924754A EP 96924754 A EP96924754 A EP 96924754A EP 0858268 A1 EP0858268 A1 EP 0858268A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
collar
edge
shirt
button
shirt according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP96924754A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0858268B1 (fr
Inventor
Michael Freiherr Von Korff
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Daniels & Korff GmbH
Original Assignee
Daniels & Korff GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Daniels & Korff GmbH filed Critical Daniels & Korff GmbH
Publication of EP0858268A1 publication Critical patent/EP0858268A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0858268B1 publication Critical patent/EP0858268B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00Collars
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00Shirts

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a dress shirt, preferably men ⁇ shirt occurs or with an attached collar and a left and a right chest cutting, which having in the chest area with a buttons sub ⁇ complete buttonholes having upper treadle.
  • the collar is fitted with its collar ⁇ ridge to the upper edge of each of the two breast blanks.
  • the collar web In the collar web there is a button on the side of the lower step and a buttonhole on the side of the upper step.
  • the corresponding button is often also referred to as collar button be ⁇ .
  • the circumference of the so-called ⁇ collar size is.
  • the shirt is worn with a cotton-Kra ⁇ .
  • a shirt becomes too tight in the collar area over the course of a day, be it during the day when the neck usually widens a bit, or after washing the shirt several times, during which the fabric always gets something, so that the neck size is smaller becomes.
  • the shirt should still be able to be worn with a tie. Regardless of the required size, the collar should fit well and fit comfortably but upright against the neck. In many cases, comfort when wearing shirts is achieved by not closing the uppermost button, that is to say the collar button mentioned.
  • a reinforcing portion is at least provided, which is triangular-shaped borders essentially on three edges be ⁇ , namely a first edge connected to the gutter or the upper treadle in connection stands, a second edge connected to the collar and a third edge connected to the breast cut, and in that a button or buttonhole is located below the collar and at the same height as the first edge.
  • the reinforcement area reinforces the transition from the lower step or upper step to the collar stay and prevents the collar corners from slipping down or to the side. Wrinkles that form easily below the collar web when a shirt according to the prior art is worn with the collar button open do not appear. Rather, the reinforcement works so that the collar corners sit well even without a tie and there is a closed collar.
  • the reinforcement is such that the area below the collar web is in no way stiffened, rather it is still flexible. Optically, the reinforcement area is also practical in a preferred embodiment not in appearance. It is only reinforced by suitable measures, for example in its area there is a reinforcing insert and / or twice the material thickness of the fabric from which the shirt is sewn. A desired reinforcement can be achieved by choosing different inserts, but the reinforcement should be less than is usually used in the collar area. However, this does not rule out the fact that stiffening means in the reinforcement area, such as. B. collar sticks are sewn.
  • the reinforcement area is in one piece with the lower step or the upper step. It is taken into account when cutting the breast blank in the form of an addition. In this way, the reinforcement area only has to be connected to the collar and the breast cut along the second edge and only with the breast cut along the third edge. This is done by one seam at a time.
  • the chest area of the shirt is slightly reinforced and the collar is better supported by the chest area, so that it has less tendency to tip forward. This supports the effect of the reinforcement areas.
  • Each shirt has two reinforcement areas, so there is one reinforcement area for each chest side. It is in a preferred embodiment only so large that it is not noticeable as possible, is visually concealed by the beispielseise Herun ⁇ tergeklappten collar corners.
  • the two Verstär ⁇ kung areas of a shirt are of the same kind.
  • the uppermost button or the related button are ⁇ hole at the same height as the first edge, preferably they are located at a distance of 20 to 40% of the total length of the first edge, calculated from the transition of the upper edge of the upper step or lower step into the collar web and measured from there downwards.
  • the shape of the stiffening area is in principle arbitrary, preferably it is triangular. Two edges of this triangle result on the one hand from the limitation of the lower step or upper step and on the other hand through the transition between the breast cut and the collar web, the third edge runs obliquely to the button panel. It begins a few centimeters, for example 4.5 cm from the upper end of the lower step or upper step and extends obliquely in a length of 6 to 10 cm towards the collar web.
  • the third edge can be straight, but it can also be curved.
  • the top step and bottom step have a constant width along the largest portion of their respective total length, they are widened by the respective reinforcement area, namely below the collar web of the usual width, for example 2 to 4 cm, to approximately double.
  • the seam, through which the bottom step or top step is formed after the blank has been folded over, preferably no longer runs parallel to the free edge of the bottom step and top step over the entire length, but in the area of the reinforcement area obliquely upwards towards the collar web, so that the reinforcement area is also formed.
  • the reinforcement area is located in the rapport with the rest of the cut, so that it is practically invisible in the finished shirt. Even if the reinforcement area is preferably formed by sewing additional material onto the breast blank, it is also entirely possible to reinforce the breast blank at the bottom, ie on its inside. The latter is subsequently possible, for example, in the case of shirts according to the prior art, in that an insert and optionally an additional layer of fabric are applied on the inside, which then form the reinforcement area according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 a top view of the upper area of a breast blank
  • FIG. 2 shows a representation corresponding to FIG. 1 an insert for the lower step or upper step to be trained later and the reinforcement area
  • FIG. 3 a representation according to FIG. 1 for an arrangement in which the insert is now placed and glued on and a seam allowance is folded over and ironed on the left edge of the blank, an incision is also made,
  • FIG. 4 a representation according to FIG. 3, but now with the bottom step or top step folded over and formation of the reinforcement area, the seams on the front edge and the inside edge of the top step or step and along the reinforcement area have already been made and
  • FIG. 5 the arrangement acc. FIG. 4, but now with attached collar, white ⁇ terhin buttonholes are executed.
  • FIG. 1 The from FIG. 1 visible cut for a breast area 18 differs from the prior art only by the additional part 20, which protrudes in one piece to the left above.
  • a region 22 has essentially (plus seam allowance) the width of the lower step or upper step still to be created.
  • the exemplary embodiment shown relates to the upper step 24, but the lower step is also produced.
  • FIG. 1 is already marked with an arrow 26 at the point where the front edge of the top step 24 will be when the cut is finished.
  • a shirt fabric a cotton fabric is used as game having a basis weight of about 110 g / m z in ⁇ .
  • FIG. 2 shows, a specially cut piece of insert 28 is now placed on the area 22 and the additional part 20, the insert 28 has the shape of these two parts 20, 22 and is in one piece. It extends over the entire length of the upper step 24 and thus also the lower step. This is not evident in the drawing, but is generally known.
  • the insert 28 is fixed on the fabric by hot pressing or ironing, as is known per se.
  • the following fabrics provided with adhesives, for example cotton fabrics, are coated with polyethylene as an insert, weight per unit area between 40 and 120 g / m 2 , z. B. 60 g / m 2 used .
  • FIG. 3 shows, for a seam allowance, an approximately 1 cm wide strip 30 is folded over on the left edge of the area 22 or the additional part 20, in the area of a kink where the straight left edge of the area 22 delimits the obliquely upward direction an additional area 20 passes over, an incision 32 is made.
  • the reinforcement area begins later at this point, and this will be discussed in more detail later.
  • the seam allowance is ironed in the known manner to facilitate sewing.
  • FIG. 4 It can be seen that the right seam of the leg initially runs as usual and seen from below at the same distance from the front edge 34, but then slopes away upwards in the area of the kink.
  • FIG. 5 now shows the completed arrangement. Buttonholes are still incorporated in the slip, the upper step 24 is thus completed.
  • the top buttonhole 36 is located at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the top edge of the top step 24.
  • the top buttonhole 36 runs transversely to the longitudinal direction of the top step 24, the other buttonholes, of which only the buttonhole 38 is shown, on the other hand, run in the longitudinal direction of the upper step 24.
  • a collar 40 is sewn on top of the top step in a known manner, it has a collar web 42.
  • no buttonhole is provided in the collar web, and accordingly no button is arranged at the other end of the collar web. Rather, the uppermost button of the button panel, which is formed from the top step and bottom step, is at a certain distance from the junction of the top step 24 (or bottom step) and the collar web 42.
  • the completed reinforcement area 44 can now be seen. It is essentially triangular. It is delimited by a first edge 46, which runs in an imaginary extension of the seam with which the covering is stitched when it is extended in a straight line beyond the kink. Along the first edge 46, the reinforcement area is connected in one piece with the material of the base 24, the same applies to the insert 28. The reinforcement area is connected to the collar 40 along a second edge 48, more precisely, to the collar web 42.
  • a third edge 50 is oblique to the front edge 34 and meets the collar land approximately at a location that is typically twice the front edge 34 than is the case with the prior art shirt. In the exemplary embodiment shown, the third edge 50 is straight and has a length of approximately 7.5 cm. The width of the upper step 24 is approximately 3.5 cm.
  • the inventive of the gain region 44 is also for heruntergeknöpfte collar, as also referred to as "button down" be ⁇ .

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Turbine Rotor Nozzle Sealing (AREA)
  • Crystals, And After-Treatments Of Crystals (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une chemise/un chemisier, de préférence une chemise comprenant un col (40) rapporté et des découpes (18) gauche et droite destinées à la poitrine, adjacentes dans la zone de la poitrine, à une patte inférieure avec des boutons ou une patte supérieure (24) présentant des boutonnières (36; 38). Une zone de renfort est prévue. De forme sensiblement triangulaire, cette zone est délimitée par trois bords, à savoir un premier bord (46) en liaison avec la patte inférieure et la patte supérieure (24), un deuxième bord (48) relié au col et un troisième bord (50) relié à la découpe destinée à la poitrine. Un bouton ou une boutonnière (36) se trouvent sous le col (40) et à même hauteur que le premier bord (46).
EP96924754A 1995-11-02 1996-07-19 Chemise/chemisier avec col Expired - Lifetime EP0858268B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19540700 1995-11-02
DE19540700A DE19540700A1 (de) 1995-11-02 1995-11-02 Oberhemd mit Kragen
PCT/DE1996/001321 WO1997016081A1 (fr) 1995-11-02 1996-07-19 Chemise/chemisier avec col

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0858268A1 true EP0858268A1 (fr) 1998-08-19
EP0858268B1 EP0858268B1 (fr) 2000-04-12

Family

ID=7776357

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP96924754A Expired - Lifetime EP0858268B1 (fr) 1995-11-02 1996-07-19 Chemise/chemisier avec col

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US6112329A (fr)
EP (1) EP0858268B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2000510538A (fr)
AT (1) ATE191616T1 (fr)
AU (1) AU6512496A (fr)
DE (2) DE19540700A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO1997016081A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7004361B2 (en) * 2002-07-26 2006-02-28 Daniel Thomas Collar-shaping device
JP4585827B2 (ja) * 2004-06-21 2010-11-24 好司 加藤 首回り調節機能付シャツ
DE602005022086D1 (de) * 2005-11-29 2010-08-12 Arc Teryx Equipment Inc Mehrschichtiger Kragen
BR112014003366B1 (pt) 2011-08-17 2020-08-04 Life Molecular Imaging Sa Compostos para ligação à glicoproteína iib/iiia específica de plaqueta, seus usos e seus métodos de fabricação, e kit

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB183745A (en) * 1921-09-12 1922-08-03 Harry Tolton Improvements in and relating to negligee shirts
US1599968A (en) * 1925-11-12 1926-09-14 Lipman Sigmund Shirt
US2705806A (en) * 1954-05-05 1955-04-12 Williamson Charles Donovan Shirt
US3009161A (en) * 1960-03-11 1961-11-21 Lesavoy Ely Unitary insert structure for shirts and the like
US4011599A (en) * 1975-08-21 1977-03-15 Ralph Edwards Sportswear, Inc. Article of apparel collar and lapel construction

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO9716081A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU6512496A (en) 1997-05-22
US6112329A (en) 2000-09-05
ATE191616T1 (de) 2000-04-15
JP2000510538A (ja) 2000-08-15
WO1997016081A1 (fr) 1997-05-09
DE19540700A1 (de) 1997-05-07
DE59604968D1 (de) 2000-05-18
EP0858268B1 (fr) 2000-04-12

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