EP0842618B2 - Resilient interlining - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an insert, in particular an elastic fixation insert comprising a Carrier based on a woven, knitted fabric or knitted fabric with weft insertion and a layer which has been placed thereon an adhesive, preferably a melt adhesive mass.

Such an insert is known from document EP-A-0411656.

Such deposits have been used for many years in the garment industry, especially to reinforce the Front part of clothing used. These insoles consist of a carrier, called tissue, knitted fabric or may be formed as a nonwoven, and from a usually thermoplastic adhesive which in the Form of a grid is applied, said adhesive is an adhesive bond with the outer fabric of the garments allows.

Such deposits have the task to shape the garment and stabilize. There They are bonded to the outer fabric, they influence the character of the finished garment in crucial Wise. The optics, dimensional stability, softness, the wearing comfort as well as the care characteristics with the cleaning and The laundry depends crucially on the type and structure of the insert used. Especially important Characteristics of the clothing here are the appearance, the handle and the care behavior of the finished garment.

The garments must also correspond to the changing fashion trends. Therefore, the most diverse and different outer fabrics used. Accordingly, usually also different types of inserts used to reinforce these different outer fabrics.

For conventional fabric-based inserts, staple fiber yarns of viscose (CV), cotton (CO), polyester (PES), polyacrylonitrile (PAN) and their blends are commonly used. The finenesses of the yarns used are generally between 10 and 200 Nm. The weight of these deposits is usually in the range of 35 to 140 g / m ² . The fabrics produced in this way are either crosslinked by cellulose crosslinkers or thermally shrink-stabilized. By roughening or sanding a fabric side a dense batt on the surface of the insert is produced and thus achieved a high softness and volume and closure of the insert. This is crucial for the grip of the finished part. The non-roughened fabric side is then coated by known methods with an adhesive, preferably hot melt adhesives. When gluing the insert with the outer fabric of the batt on the back also prevents penetration of the melt adhesive mass through the insert through toward the side of the lining material.

Similar deposits are also known as knitted fabrics. In the shot are the already mentioned staple fiber yarns from CV, CO, PES, PAN and their mixtures used. The necklace is usually made of fine filament yarns formed, which preferably consist of PES or polyamide (PA) and a fineness in the range of 25 dtex to have 78 dtex. Again, the side not coated with hot melt adhesive is roughened again to make a soft To achieve grip and a high volume and to prevent the kickback of the coating through the insert.

Nonwovens are also used as carrier materials for inserts. The weight of such inserts used for the front fixation of garments is usually between 30 and 80 g / m ² . Hardening is usually carried out thermally by grid-shaped engraved calender rolls. Often the fleeces are also reinforced by warp and / or weft threads, which can be acted upon. These threads are also made of the above fine filament yarns or textured polyester filaments. These nonwovens can be coated with hot melt adhesives. Due to the fleece character, the risk of recoil of the coating through the outer material is usually low. However, a disadvantage in any case is that this type of inserts does not preserve the volume and softness of the above-mentioned roughened inserts.

However, all the deposits described above have in common that they are resistant to tensile stresses in Longitudinal and transverse directions are largely rigid and not very elastic. A low extensibility of the insert is at high mechanical stress possible. However, this strain is incomplete after loading. This lack of elasticity of the known deposits represents a serious disadvantage.

If such a known insert connected to an outer fabric, the insert is not able to Dimensional change of the outer fabric by heat, during washing, by solvents during cleaning or by External forces to follow, which on the finished garment to wrinkles, a partial detachment of the insert or can lead to wavy deformations and bumps. This is the use value of the garment severely impaired.

Is now trying to avoid the detachment and by an increased application amount of the adhesive To increase the adhesive force, so the adhesive when fixing the insert with the outer fabric through the liner and / or penetrate the outer fabric. This not only foul the fixing press at the confectioner and the smooth Procedure of fixing disturbed by adhering blank pieces, but it is also the handle and Thus, the value of goods of these garments severely impaired.

Since, for this reason, the order quantity of the adhesive can not be increased, it was tried, the Adjustment with regard to their shrinkage behavior to the respective outer fabric. However, this is in practice The garment industry almost impossible, because many different outer fabrics with different properties be processed, but the clothing industry is forced, for economic reasons, as possible few different types of inserts to cover the entire outer fabric range. Moreover, with this type from rigid deposits on elastic outer fabrics no satisfactory fixing result can be achieved because of the properties of inlay and outer fabric are too different.

In order to avoid these disadvantages, a different type of fixation inserts has been developed in recent years. These are characterized by the use of textured polyester filament yarns having a fineness of 20 to 400 dtex as weft yarns. The chain may be constructed in a similar manner to that already described above for the known rigid inserts, but it may also be made from textured polyester yarns having a fineness between 25 and about 167 dtex. The woven or knitted carrier is in turn coated with hot melt adhesives by known methods. The weight of these deposits is usually between 35 and 120 g / m ² .

The properties of the fixation inserts are significantly dertexturiertem by the properties Embossed polyester filament yarns. These textured polyester filament yarns are highly elastic because they Stretch very easily with tensile loads in warp and weft directions as well as in diagonal pull. After the end The tensile load returns these yarns almost to their original state. The elasticity in the weft direction is usually 20-25%, but can be up to 40%. In the warp direction, the elasticity is ideally 6-8%. Elasticity values of up to 15% are also known, but in order to achieve this high elasticity value, the Processing in the clothing industry an increased effort necessary.

Due to the elasticity of this insert this is capable of the dimensional change of the outer fabric by Heat, washing, solvent cleaning or external forces. The above Disadvantages of the rigid, roughened insert are thus avoided. This type of inserts is therefore, above all if they are in warp and weft of textured polyester yarns, almost on many different outer fabrics universally applicable.

The crimping of the polyester yarns also results in a high volume which prevents that the hotmelt adhesive repulses during fixation with the outer fabric through the insert in the direction of Futterstoffseite.

A disadvantage of this type of deposits, however, is that the textured polyester filament yarns are not roughened can be without the filaments are destroyed.

Therefore, the handle failure of the insert does not have the soft touch and elegance of a rigid, roughened one Reach deposit.

Gradual improvements were achieved through the use of textured microfiber yarns The fineness of the individual filament should allow a softer grip. Also are elaborate constructions e.g. from EP-A-0 289 378, which in addition to warp and weft, each of textured polyester yarns consist of a third thread system consisting of rough, non-elastic yarns, as in classical roughened deposits are used. As a result, but not the appearance of a rigid, roughened Insert achieved, since the basic problem persists, namely that the elastic thread systems are still not can be roughened.

For this reason, the handle failure of these elastic fixings and the finished garment especially for the high-end fashion sector compared to classic roughened inserts as too synthetic, dry and artificially assessed.

The present invention is therefore based on the technical problem of an insert of the aforementioned To develop type that avoids the disadvantages of the previously known types of inserts, so the advantageous Handle failure and the elegance of a rigid, roughened insert has and at the same time elastic, flexible and almost is universally applicable.

Surprisingly, this problem could be solved by using multicomponent fibers, in particular Bicomponent fibers are dissolved as material for the wearer of the insert. The multicomponent fibers are composed of at least two different polymers. By using these multicomponent fibers it is possible to make an elastic insert, which is also very easy to roughen at the same time.

Preference is given to using bicomponent fibers as multicomponent fibers, which consist of two different Consist of polymers. As polymers of the multicomponent fibers, those on polyester-polyamide or Polyacrylonitrile base can be used. The different structure of the different polymer components leads to a three-dimensional crimping of the fiber, which is fundamentally different from the mechanical crimping through Texturing is different. The characteristics of the crimp can be influenced, in which the thermal Shrinkability of the two components and / or the quantitative ratio of the polymer components used for the production of multicomponent fiber changes. Particularly preferred according to the invention is a Polyester-based bicomponent fiber, the polyester polymers based on two different diols are constructed. These bicomponent fibers have a bilateral structure with the components side by side in the ratio 50:50 are arranged. Such fibers are e.g. under the trademark TERGAL X 403 (manufacturer Rhöne-Poulenc Textile).

The multicomponent fibers preferably have a fiber length of 15 to 400 mm, preferably 35 to 200 mm. The fineness of the single fiber titer used is between 0.5 and 12 dtex, but preferably at about, at 6 to 8 dtex. A particularly preferred fineness value is 6.7 dtex. The subtleties of the invention Staple fiber yarns consisting of these multicomponent fibers are in the range of 6 to 200 Nm, more preferably, however, in the range of 16 to 32 Nm.

The use of staple fiber yarns made from multicomponent fibers achieves significantly better crimping values than was the case when textured standard polyester filament yarns were used. The better crimp values are shown below by comparison between a polyester-based bicomponent fiber and a textured polyester fiber:

For cost reasons, these multicomponent fibers can be mixed with other fibers during yarn production become. Wool, viscose or cotton threads are preferably used for this purpose. It is also possible to have one Mixture of the multicomponent fibers e.g. with polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile optionally together with the above-mentioned Use threads of viscose, wool or cotton. The mixing ratio of the multicomponent fibers in this case is preferably at least 50% if elongation values in the finished product of more than 15% should be achieved.

The carrier of the elastic insert according to the invention can be made so that the warp and Weft threads from the multicomponent fibers. optionally in admixture with the above-stated polyester fibers, Polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, viscose, wool and cotton, but it is also possible, in addition to these Multi-component fibers to use textured or non-textured staple fiber yarns. In this case it is possible, for the weft threads, the multicomponent fibers, if appropriate in admixture with the abovementioned materials, and for the warp yarns textured or untextured yarns e.g. polyester or polyamide based.

By using the multicomponent fibers, woven or knitted fabrics can be produced become monooder biiel.

The deposits obtained in this way can now be roughened on one side according to the usual methods. On the other side of this insert, a hot melt adhesive is also preferred in the form according to the usual methods applied a dot matrix. By insert according to the invention, it is possible the handle failure of a roughened Insole and the advantageous stretch properties of elastic inserts in a single product. Thus, it is possible to use the insert according to the invention for fixing a wide variety of types of outer fabrics, this insert being able to follow any dimensional changes of the outer fabric. It comes hereby no longer to deformations or bumps or even to a replacement of the deposit.

If a knitted insert is made, it is also possible to use another thread system as stand threads contribute. The resulting insert is also very elastic, because the multi-component fibers according to used in this invention.

Of course, it is also possible that in weft threads of bicomponent fibers and conventional Threads occur alternately. By using the bicomponent fibers, the resulting insert becomes very strong elastic.

In the following, by way of example, particularly preferred embodiments will be explained in order to explain this invention in more detail listed:

Example 1: Double-stretch insert (fabric):

Chain:

1600 threads, 60% PES bicomponent fiber / 40% viscose Nm 32/1

Shot:

60% PES bicomponent fiber / 40% viscose 32/1 Nm

Weft density:

120

rough:

8 passages

coating:

12 g / m ² polyamide hot melt adhesive

Final weight:

about 95 g / m ²

By using PES bicomponent yarns in the warp and PES bicomponent yarns in the warp Shot is the article obtained elastic in warp and weft direction, where both warp and weft roughened become. As a result, an optimum of soft touch is achieved.

Example 2: Double-stretch insert (tissue):

Chain:

4008 threads, PES filament, textured, dtex 78/1 f32

Shot:

60% PES bicomponent fiber / 40% viscose Nm 32/1

Weft density:

120

rough:

8 passages

coating:

12 g / m ² polyamide hot melt adhesive

Final weight:

about 84 g / m ²

By using textured PES filament yarns in the warp and PES bicomponent yarns In the shot, the article obtained is elastic in warp and weft direction, with the weft being roughened. This Article represents a compromise between soft grip and favorable price.

Example 3: Mono-stretch insert (fabric), elastic:

Chain:

5420 threads, PES smooth normal type / viscose 50% / 50% Nm 60/1

Shot:

60% PES bicomponent fiber / 40% viscose Nm 32/1

Shot density:

105

rough:

8 passages

coating:

12 g / m ² polyamide hot melt adhesive

Final weight:

about 88 g / m ²

By using conventional, rigid PES / CV yarns in the warp and PES bicomponent yarns In the shot, the article obtained is elastic in the weft direction, with warp and weft being roughened. This article allows a very soft feel and is monoelastic.

Example 4: Mono-stretch insert (Gevirke), shot elastic:

Chain:

2008 threads, polyamide filament, smooth, dtex 44f13

Machine gauge:

E24

Shot:

60% PES bicomponent fiber / 40% viscose Nm 32/1

Weft density:

120

rough:

8 passages

coating:

12 g / m ² polyamide hot melt adhesive

Final weight:

about 89 g / m ²

By using conventional, rigid PA yarns in the warp and PES bicomponent yarns In the shot, the article obtained is elastic in the weft direction, the shot being roughened. By the fine However, warp yarn and the coarse weft yarn dominate the handle impression of the roughened weft yarn. This article allows a soft touch and is monoelastic.

Claims (11)

1. Resilient interlining, in particular resilient setting interlining, comprising a support based on a woven fabric, knitted fabric or knitted fabric with weft insertion and a layer made from an adhesive composition sitting thereon, characterised in that the support contains multi-component fibres having a length of 15 to 400 mm, which are constructed of at least two different polymers.
2. Resilient interlining according to claim 1, characterised in that the multi-component fibres are bicomponent fibres which are constructed from two different polymers based on polyester, polyamide or polyacrylonitrile or mixtures thereof.
3. Resilient interlining according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the linear density of the individual fibres of the multi-component fibres lies in the range from 0.5 to 12 dtex.
4. Resilient interlining according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the multi-component fibres are present mixed with fibres of polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, viscose, cotton or wool.
5. Resilient interlining according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the support additionally contains textured or non-textured staple fibre yarns of polyester, polyacrylonitrile, polyamide, viscose, cotton or wool or mixtures thereof.
6. Resilient interlining according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the support is a woven fabric, the warp and weft threads of which consist of multi-component fibres based on polyester, optionally mixed with polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, viscose, wool or cotton.
7. Resilient interlining according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterised in that the support is a woven fabric, the warp threads of which consist of textured or non-textured polyester yarns and the weft threads of which consist of multi-component fibres based on polyester, optionally mixed with polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, viscose, wool or cotton.
8. Resilient interlining according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the support is a knitted fabric, the warp threads of which consist of polyamide filaments or polyester filaments, which are textured or non-textured and the weft threads of which consist of multi-component fibres based on polyester, optionally mixed with polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, viscose, wool or cotton.
9. Resilient interlining according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that threads of multi-component fibres and traditional threads appear through the weft.
10. Use of the resilient interlining according to one of claims 1 to 8, as setting interlining for reinforcing face materials.
11. Use according to claim 9 for reinforcing the front part of pieces of clothing.