EP0842617A1 - Shirt collar reinforcing textile interlining or similar piece - Google Patents

Abstract

The backing layer consists of a knitted material with stitches (2) interwoven with reinforcing filaments running in the warp direction and between the columns of stitches. The filaments are straight or substantially straight, are devoid of corrugation stresses, and are thermally stabilised. The backing layer can incorporate a layer of a non-woven material and an adhesive or hot-melt glue for attaching it to a layer of fabric or lining, e.g. of cotton or similar material. The reinforcing filaments can be based on synthetic fibres.

Description

The invention relates to a textile support for reinforcement of a shirt collar or the like; the application of such a textile reinforcement support to a shirt collar or equivalent part and, finally, a method for making such a pass.

We already know clothing collars such as shirt collars, blouses or equivalent parts comprising a interlining.

We can refer for example to documents FR-A-2.570.577 and FR-A-2,609,873.

Conventionally, the interlining or pieces of reinforcement for shirt collar are made either woven, for example polyester, or nonwoven.

However, the current shirt collars present the disadvantage that the dimensional stability of the cervix does not cannot be fully guaranteed over time. Indeed, during the successive washes of the shirt and therefore of the collar, the stabilization brought by the interlining of neck strengthening deteriorates, resulting in modification of the length of the neck, particularly annoying. This loss of lap length neck can be up to 1.5 or even 2.5 cm or more again.

We also know the state of the art, reinforcement pieces for localized stiffening of textile (see FR-A-2.531.616), interlining fusible (see FR-A-2,462,456), and, finally, fusible interlining in the form of knitted mesh screened (see FR-A-2.710.078).

We also know chemical treatments of textile supports, intended to impart or improve them their wrinkle-resistant properties (see FR-A-2,727,136).

The problem which is the basis of the invention is to dimensionally stabilize a shirt collar or patch equivalent given the regular maintenance of this piece of clothing including washing and ironing successive.

To this end, the invention uses a support reinforcement fabric for shirt collar or piece analogous in the form of a woven mesh knit including an insertion of reinforcing wires and stabilization extending in the direction of the chain between columns of mesh.

According to the invention, the reinforcing wires and stabilization are straight or substantially straight, devoid or substantially devoid of undulations constraints. These reinforcing threads and stabilization are thermally stabilized.

Such textile reinforcement may include also, inserted, a nonwoven web.

The textile reinforcement support may include also a sticky or fusible material intended for its subsequent association with col.

Reinforcement and stabilization wires are based on synthetic fibers or filaments.

According to another aspect, the invention aims the application of such a textile reinforcement support to a shirt collar or the like to improve its dimensional stability over time, particularly as a result successive washing and ironing.

The dimensional stability of the cervix can be improved in its great direction, i.e. the turn of neck or, alternatively, in its perpendicular direction to the great direction of the pass.

According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a shirt collar or equivalent part including one or more several pieces of fabric and, associated, a textile support reinforcement as described above.

The textile reinforcement support is made function in itself of interlining, either function of reinforcement of interlining itself associated with the piece (s) of the collar.

The reinforcing textile support acting per se interlining has a material covering sticky or fusible for its association with neck piece (s).

In case the textile reinforcement support acts as interlining reinforcement, the textile support of reinforcement is associated with the interlining by heat sealing, simultaneously with the fusing of the interlining.

Such a interlining is made of cotton or equivalent.

According to a first embodiment, the wires of reinforcement and stabilization of the textile support of reinforcement are arranged in the great direction of the neck, that is to say the neck. In this case, the chain of reinforcing textile support extends in the direction the length of the neck.

According to a second embodiment, the wires of strengthening and stabilization are arranged in the direction perpendicular to the great direction of the pass.

In this case, the textile support chain of reinforcement extends in the direction perpendicular to the direction of the length of the collar.

A collar as just described may include two pieces of fabric respectively from above and from below, joined together and between which is inserted the textile reinforcement support.

According to a fourth and final aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of making a pass as just described which includes a step consisting in associating a textile reinforcement support as described on the piece (s) of fabric of the collar.

According to a first alternative embodiment, associates the textile reinforcement support directly with the or to the piece (s) of fabric of the collar.

According to a second possible variant, we associate first the textile reinforcement support to a interlining and then we associate the interlining thus reinforced with the or to the piece (s) of fabric forming the collar.

• les figures 1 et 2 représentent des vues schématiques, en élévation, de deux modes de réalisation du support textile de renforcement selon l'invention ;
• les figures 3 et 4 sont deux vues schématiques en élévation, à plat, d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente incluant un support textile de renforcement tel que représenté sur la figure 1 ;
• les figures 5 et 6 sont deux vues schématiques en élévation, à plat, d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente, incluant un support textile de renforcement tel que représenté sur la figure 2 ;
• la figure 7 est une vue en coupe partielle, selon la ligne IV-IV de la figure 3.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description which follows, given by way of illustration, with reference to the appended drawings in which:

• Figures 1 and 2 show schematic views, in elevation, of two embodiments of the textile reinforcement support according to the invention;
• Figures 3 and 4 are two schematic elevational views, flat, of a shirt collar or equivalent part including a textile reinforcement support as shown in Figure 1;
• Figures 5 and 6 are two schematic elevational views, flat, of a shirt collar or equivalent part, including a textile reinforcement support as shown in Figure 2;
• FIG. 7 is a partial sectional view, along the line IV-IV of FIG. 3.

The textile reinforcement support 1 according to the invention is in the form of a knitted fabric halftone 2 comprising warp threads 3 and weft 4. The knitted fabric 2 further comprises yarns of reinforcement and stabilization 5 extending in the direction of the chain between the knitting columns of knitting 2 (Figures 1 and 2).

Weft knitted fabrics are known per se and for this reason need not be described further here.

The reinforcing and stabilizing wires 5 are arranged in each of the spaces between two columns of neighboring meshes or only in certain spaces, the other intermediate spacings being devoid of son 5.

This provision is determined according to the qualities of reinforcement and stabilization sought for support 1 and the objectives of the application which Is made.

Similarly, the reinforcing wires and stabilization 5 are arranged regularly or not depending on the areas considered, strengthening and stabilization being themselves homogeneous or not, in the different areas of the support.

For example, we can predict that in some zones, knitting has 5 threads in each of spacings between two neighboring columns of mesh and that, in other areas, wires 5 only concern certain spacings only.

In order to fully fulfill their functions of reinforcement and above all stabilization, the wires 5 are arranged in a straight line, preferably perfectly straight and are devoid or substantially devoid undulation constraints.

This characteristic is obtained by the fact that the yarns 5 do not participate in the stitches themselves and do not are not conformed by the crossing of the chain wires 3 and weft 4 of knitting 2.

In order to strengthen the stabilization qualities, the wires 5 themselves are thermally stabilized. Preferably, this quality is obtained without contribution synthetic or chemical stabilization resin.

5 usable wires are for example based on synthetic fibers or filaments.

The dimensional stability of the wires 5 in the direction of their length results in the stability of the textile support 1 in the warp direction. This dimensional stability is used to strengthen dimensional stability of a shirt collar or patch analog 6.

According to a possible embodiment, the support 1 includes a sticky or heat-bonding material intended for the subsequent association of the support 1 with the neck 6 or, possibly additional support such as interlining.

Depending on the applications envisaged, the material sticky or fusible is placed on one side only of the textile support 1 or on its two faces. The material sticky or fusible is arranged in the form of a layer continuous or as dots.

Methods for arranging a material sticky or fusible on a textile substrate are known per se and for this reason need not be described more here.

According to another possible embodiment, the support 1 also includes an inserted nonwoven tablecloth. Such a non-woven tablecloth gives the collar or the piece analog 6 a certain volume.

A support 1 as just described is specially intended for a shirt collar or any other equivalent part 6 and has the function of improving its dimensional stability over time, due to its successive washing or ironing.

The neck 6 comprises, in the embodiment shown, two pieces, respectively from above 7 and below 8, associated with each other and between which is inserted at minus a textile support 1 (FIG. 7).

The pieces 7, 8 are cut so as to present a part 9 called collar stand, intended for be associated by being adjacent to the main part of the garment, and a flap 10.

The two parts 7, 8 are associated with each other by being sewn on the periphery or by being associated by fusing.

According to a first alternative embodiment, the dimensional stability sought is that in the great direction of this room, referenced D in the figure 3, that is to say in this case the neck.

To ensure this stabilization function, the support 1 is arranged on the part 6 with the wires 5 arranged in the direction to be stabilized, in in this case direction D. For better understanding of the invention, the textile support 1 is shown in Figure 1 in the position in which it is associated with the shirt collar in FIG. 3.

In the case of the intended application -col de shirt or equivalent - the wires 5 are arranged in the direction of the collar corresponding to the neck.

According to a second embodiment, the stability dimension sought is that acting in the direction perpendicular to the great direction of the pass (figure 5).

To ensure in this case its function of stabilization, the textile support 1 is associated with the neck 6 in the position in which it is depicted on the Figure 2: the support 1 is arranged on the part 6 with the wires 5 arranged in the direction to be stabilized, in this case the direction perpendicular to the direction D.

According to a first possible embodiment, the support 1 acts as a interlining (Figures 3 and 5). In that case, the support 1 comprises the coating of sticky material or fusible.

According to another possible embodiment (Figures 4 and 6), the support 1 is associated with a interlining 11, which is itself associated with parts 7, 8.

In the latter case, the support 1 is associated with the interlining 11 by heat sealing.

Such a interlining 11 can be produced, conventionally, cotton or equivalent.

Alternatively, the support 1 can be applied as reinforcement on a first layer of the same support 1 bonded to the cervical tissue.

The process for making a collar as it comes to be described is to include an association step to parts 7, 8 of a support 1.

According to the envisaged embodiments, the support 1 is either associated directly with parts 7, 8, or associated first to a interlining 11, which, thus reinforced, is then associated itself with parts 7, 8.

Claims (18)

Reinforcement textile support for collar shirt or the like, in the form of a woven mesh knit (2), including an insertion of reinforcing and stabilizing wires (5) extending in the direction of the chain between the mesh columns, the reinforcement and stabilization wires (5) being rectilinear or substantially straight, devoid or substantially free of undulation constraints. Textile reinforcement support according to claim 1, characterized in that the wires (5) reinforcement and stabilization are stabilized thermally. Textile reinforcement support according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it includes also, inserted, a non-woven tablecloth. Textile reinforcement support according to one any of claims 1 to 3, characterized by has sticky or heat-bonding material intended for its subsequent association with a tissue or interlining. Textile reinforcement support according to one any of claims 1 to 4, characterized by the fact that the reinforcing and stabilizing wires (5) are made from synthetic fibers or filaments. Application of a textile reinforcement support, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, to a collar shirt (6) or equivalent part, in order to improve its dimensional stability over time, in its great management, particularly as a result of washing, ironing successive. Application of a textile support reinforcement according to any one of claims 1 to 5, to a shirt collar (6) or equivalent part, in order improve its dimensional stability over time, in its direction perpendicular to its great direction, especially as a result of washing, successive ironing. Shirt collar or equivalent part, comprising one or more pieces of fabric and, associated, at least one textile reinforcement support according to any one of claims 1 to 5. Collar according to claim 8, characterized by makes the textile reinforcement support function in itself of interlining, either function of reinforcement a interlining (11) itself associated with the part (s) of the cervix. Neck according to claim 9, characterized by makes the reinforcing textile support making per se function of interlining includes a coating in sticky or fusible material for its association with or to the neck piece (s). Collar according to claim 9, characterized by the fact that the reinforcing textile support making interlining reinforcement function (11) is associated with this last by heat sealing. Neck according to claim 11, characterized by the fact that the interlining (11) is made of cotton or equivalent. A collar according to any of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the wires (5) of reinforcement and stabilization of the textile support of reinforcement are arranged in the large direction of the neck (6), that is to say the neck. A collar according to any of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the wires (5) of reinforcement and stabilization of the textile support of reinforcement are arranged in the direction perpendicular to the great direction of the pass. A collar according to any of claims 8 to 14, characterized in that it comprises two pieces of fabric (7, 8) respectively from above and from below, assembled to each other and between which is inserted and assembled the textile reinforcement support. Method of making a shirt collar or equivalent part, characterized in that it includes a step of associating with the piece (s) of fabric from the neck a textile reinforcement support according to one any of claims 1 to 5. Method according to claim 16, characterized by the fact that the textile support of reinforcement directly to the piece (s) of the neck (6), the textile reinforcement support acting in itself of interlining. Method according to claim 16, characterized by the fact that the textile support of reinforcement to a interlining (11) and then this interlining thus reinforced to the part (s) of the neck (6).

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