EP0731652A1

EP0731652A1 - Method for producing a flap pocket and item such as a garment comprising same

Info

Publication number: EP0731652A1
Application number: EP95902803A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Olivier Lapidus
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1993-11-29
Filing date: 1994-11-29
Publication date: 1996-09-18
Anticipated expiration: 2014-11-29
Also published as: FR2713135A1; WO1995014399A1; TW328046B; FR2713135B1; DE69409668T2; DE69409668D1; US5823128A; EP0731652B1; AU1192595A

Abstract

A pocket comprising a flap (64) pivotably connected to a garment panel (1) and concealing a pocket opening (63). The flap (64) comprises a flap body (4) integral with the garment panel (1), whereas the garment panel (1) includes an aperture (6) concealed behind the flap (64). The flap body (4) has an enlarging flap edge (13) so that the aperture is completely concealed. The aperture (6) is covered by an upper pocket surface (43) and a lower pocket surface (46) defining the opening (63) therebetween. The back of the flap (64) is covered with a counter flap (28). The pocket, particularly the pocket surfaces (43, 46), are attached both to the counter flap (28) and to tabs provided in the material of the garment panel (1) along the free edges of the aperture (6). This arrangement improves the appearance, strength and water-tightness of the flap.

Description

"Method for producing a flap pocket and article, in particular clothing, comprising such a pocket"

DESCRIPTION The present invention relates to a method for making a flap pocket in a section of clothing.

The present invention also relates to an article, in particular a garment, a bag, a suitcase or the like comprising such a pocket. To make a flap pocket, it is known to make a rectilinear slit in the fabric of the pan of the garment or other article, and to fix a flap along the upper edge of the slit.

This process has various drawbacks. From the aesthetic point of view, the flap forms a rupture with respect to the pan of clothing, and this for three reasons: the seam of the flap emphasizes the separation, the texture and / or the pattern of the fabric of the flap are not strictly aligned with those of the pan of habit, and moreover the flap tends to yawn, ie to be placed in oblique position compared to the pan of habit. In addition, the attachment of the flap to the pan of clothing may lack robustness and / or tightness.

The object of the invention is thus to propose a pocket structure as well as a method for producing it, which overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks.

According to the invention, the method for producing a flap pocket in a section of an article is characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) forming in the fabric of the section of article a slit along a contour in a U so as to define at

1 inside the U a flap body continuously attached to the article pan, and

The outside of the U a notch in the section of the article; and b) fix around the notch a pocket having a lateral opening positioned to be under the flap.

Thus, rather than preserving the fabric of the pan of clothing or other article intended to be under the flap, and which is consequently invisible except when the flap is raised, the invention provides for making the flap in continuity with the fabric of the pan of habit. In return, a notch is formed in the pan of clothing but this notch may on the one hand be partially closed by the pocket and on the other hand be at least partially concealed by the flap.

Preferably, to better conceal the whole of the notch, or a larger part thereof, a flap border is fixed along the movable edges of the flap body which enlarges the flap relative to the dimensions of the slot in U.

According to a preferred version of the method, a counter-flap covering the inner face of the flap body is fixed, for example to the flap edge.

The pocket can then also be fixed to the counter flap in the vicinity or above a line corresponding substantially to the axis of articulation of the flap to the article flap. According to another object of the invention, the article comprising a flap pocket obtained in particular by a method according to the first object, is characterized in that the flap comprises a flap body which extends in one piece the fabric of the section of the article comprising the pocket, while the fabric of the article section is indented under the flap.

Other particularities and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description below, relating to nonlimiting exemplary embodiments. _f In the accompanying drawings:

- Figure 1 shows, in half-views in its left part and in its right part, two successive stages of the method according to the invention; - Figure 2 shows, in the right half-view a third step of the method, and in the left half-view a border piece used in this third step; - Figure 3 shows a fourth step of the method according to Figure 1, only the flap edge and the counter flap being shown in the right part of the figure;

- Figure 4 is a sectional view along IV-IV of Figure 3;

- Figures 5 and 6 are half-perspectives of two other stages of the process, seen from inside the article, -

- Figures 7, 8 and 9 are sections along VII-VII, VIII-VIII and respectively IX-IX of Figure 6;

- Figure 10 shows in perspective the result of the operation of Figure 6, seen from outside the article; - Figure 11 is a perspective view showing from inside the article, the pocket bottom being laid (right part of the figure) and respectively placed (left part of the figure); - Figure 12 is a perspective view showing the assembly to be performed for a second embodiment of the invention; and

FIGS. 13 and 14 are views in vertical section, and respectively in external perspective of the flap pocket obtained with the embodiment of FIG. 12.

In the example represented in FIGS. 1 to 11, a garment, taken as an example of an article, comprises a pan 1 (FIG. 1), in which there is made, for example by means of a cookie cutter, a slot 2 having the general shape of a U whose free ends 3 are directed upwards and bifurcated in Y. The U-shaped slot -. - 2 defines 1 inside the U a flap body 4 and outside of the U a notch 6 of the habit pan 1.

The two corners of the flap body 4 are then cut along a bevel 7 so as to define around the flap body 4 a central tongue 8 and two lateral tabs 9. The central tongue 8 is defined between the two bevels 7. Each lateral tongue 9 is defined between one of the bevels 7 and the inner arm 11 of the corresponding bifurcated end 3. Then, as shown in the right part of FIG. 1, the tongues 8 and 9 are turned 180 ° against the interior of the flap body. This shows a U-shaped opening 12 between the notch 6 and the flap body 4. A flap border 13 is also prepared, made of a flat piece of fabric in the general U shape. piece a slit oblique 14 from each of its two concave angles, to define a central inner tab 16 and two inner side tabs 17. As shown, in the right part of Figure 2, we return to 180 ° the three tabs interior 16 and 17 and this gives the border 13 an interior contour corresponding exactly to the exterior contour of the flap body 4 with the tongues 8 and 9 turned over. However, the two arms of the border 13 are longer than the corresponding lateral edges of the flap body 4.

The border 13 is placed around the flap body 4, so that the tongues 16 and 17 of the border 13 are turned over on the same side as the tongues 8 and 9 relative to the plane of the flap body 4 and of the border 13. The flap edge 13 is then connected to the flap body 4 by a seam 18 formed all along the movable edges of the flap body 4. The seam 18 (see also FIG. 7) is carried out substantially in the plane of the flap body 4 and of the border 13 and it connects the folds located back to back of the tongues 8 and 9 on the one hand and 16 and 17 on the other. Then, as shown in FIG. 3, a central peripheral tongue 19 and two lateral peripheral tongues 21 are formed by 180 ° folding of the flap edge 13 on the same side as the interior tabs 16 and 17. width of the arms 22 of the border 13 is thus reduced so that it is substantially equal to the width L (FIG. 1) of the Y formed by each bifurcated end 3 of the U-shaped slot 2. Each bifurcated end 3 defines between its branch inner 11 and its outer branch 23 a triangular cleanliness flap 24. The flaps 24 are turned over (FIGS. 3 and 4) towards the inside of the pan of clothing, by rotation of 180 ° around an axis 26, so as to clear an opening 25 (Figure 4) in the pan of clothing at each bifurcated end of the U-shaped slot. Then, in each opening 25, the end region 27 of the corresponding arm 22 of the border 13 is engaged. This end region 27 is found so from inner side of the pan of habit, see also FIG. 4. At this stage, a counter-flap 28 is fixed to the peripheral tabs 19 and 21 of the border 13 which covers the entire rear face of the flap body 4 and of the border 13. The counter flap 28 itself has a central peripheral tab 29 and two lateral peripheral tabs 31 by which it is fixed to the peripheral tabs 19 and respectively 21 of the edge 13. The upper edge 32 of the counter flap 28 substantially coincides with the 'upper end of the arms 22 of the border 13. Figure 5 shows the situation seen from the inside of the pan of habit 1 at the end of the operations which have just been described. In the pan of habit 1, from the concave angles of the notch 6, oblique cuts 33 which define along the notch 6 a central tongue 34 and two lateral tabs 36 which are returned to 180 ° against the inside of the pan of habit 1 as seen by the circular arrows 37. Figure 6 also shows the situation seen from the back of the pan. There are opposite the flap 28 and the tongues 34 and 36 returned from the notch of the pan of habit 1, two pieces of fabric 38, 39 folded at 180 ° so that their folds 41 and 42 are located one facing each other with the fabric of each piece extending in the opposite direction to the other piece from the respective fold. As regards the part 38, the fold 41 constitutes the limit between an upper front 43 of the pocket, and an upper external wall 44 of the pocket. As regards the part 39, the fold 42 constitutes the limit between a lower facade 46 of the pocket and a lower external wall 47 of the pocket. The facades 43 and 46 are located between the counter-flap 28 and the external walls 44 and 47.

The upper front 43 and the upper external wall 44 are connected to the counter flap 28 by a central seam 48, and to the tabs 36 by two side seams 52 (only one of which is visible in FIG. 6). The seam 48 extends along a line 49 of the counter flap 28 adjacent to the future axis of articulation of the flap relative to the pan of habit 1, and a corresponding line 51 of the upper pocket front 43 and from the upper external wall 44 of the pocket. The seam 48 will at the same time connect to the counter flap 28 and to the piece 38 the ends 27 of the border 13 and the cleanliness flaps 24, see also FIG. 9. Each seam 52 connects on the one hand the articulation line 53 of the corresponding tongue 36 and on the other hand a corresponding line 54 of the upper pocket facade 43 and of the upper external wall 44. The line 54 further comprises an extension 56 through the lower facade 46 and the lower external wall 47, so that the seams 52 also contribute to fixing the periphery of the notch 6 the lower facade 46 and the lower external wall 47. Thus, the two parts 38 and 39 are precisely positioned relative to one another.

In addition, seams 57 and 58 connect the lower part of the articulation line 53 of the tongue 36 and the articulation line 59 of the central tongue 34 of the notch 6 with respectively corresponding lines 61 and 62 of the lower facade

46. The seams 57 and 58 do not relate to the lower external wall 47 of the pocket. Thus, the assembly formed by the two facades 43, 46 and the external walls 44, 47 of the pocket is fixed around the entire periphery of the notch, directly to the fabric of the pan of habit along the open edges of the notch, and against the flap 28 along the edge of the notch from which the flap starts.

The folds 41 and 42 constitute between them for the user lifting the flap a lateral opening 63 giving access to the interior of the pocket.

FIG. 10 shows the structure obtained seen from the outside of the suit, the flap 64 being shown raised, revealing through the notch 6, the upper facade 43, the lower facade 46 and the lateral opening 63 located between they. The body 4 of the flap 64 has no discontinuity with respect to the pan of habit 1, because in particular the seam 48 shown in FIG. 6 did not concern the fabric of the pan of habit 1. When the flap 64 is folded down, it conceals the facades 43, 46 and the opening 63.

Then, in FIG. 11, the pocket is finished by fixing a rectangular pocket bottom 66 both to the upper external wall 44 and to the lower external wall

47, by virtue of a peripheral seam 68 which can also relate to the facades 43 and 46, the tongues 36, the counter flap 28 along the line of articulation between the flap and the pan of clothing, the ends 27 of the border 13, as well as the cleaning flaps 24. The seam 68 is also visible in FIGS. 7 and 8, where the pocket bottom 66 is shown in mixed line to better distinguish the situations before and after its implementation. We make sure that the seam 68 never concerns the visible fabric of the dress pan. Thus, after the installation of the pocket bottom, the exterior appearance of the coat is still that visible in FIG. 10.

In the example of FIGS. 12 to 14, which will only be described for its differences from the previous one, the internal wall 78 of the pocket is in one piece of the same dimensions as the internal wall 66. The two walls 66, 78 are intended to be assembled to each other by a peripheral seam 81, along a line displayed by a dotted line on each of the two walls 66, 78 in FIG. 12. Before this assembly, the external wall was formed 78 a second U-shaped slot 82 whose dimensions correspond to those of the U-shaped slot 2 made in the section of article 1, the reverse side of which is visible in FIG. 12. The correspondence of dimensions must allow the two slots 2, 82 to overlap.

The slot 2 having already been formed in the section of article 1, the pocket itself, placed of the assembled walls 66 and 78, is placed against the section of article 1 so that the external wall 78 bears against the face reverse side of item 1, and that slots 2 and 82 overlap.

Two seams are then formed, for example in a zigzag (Figures 13 and 14), one 83 joining the inner edges of the U-shaped slots 2 and 82, the other 84 joining the outer edges of the U-shaped slots 2 and 82. As the shown in Figure 14, these seams can remain visible on the right side of the article, but we can also hide at least one of them by means of an added border.

In this embodiment of the invention, the zone 88 formed in the external wall 78 inside the U-shaped slot 82 forms counter-flap fixed directly to the flap body 4 by the seam 83. The seams 83 and 84 may be the only connections between the pocket proper 66, 78 on the one hand and the section of article ₁ on the other. In this embodiment, the pocket flap 74 takes on a new function because it is possible to put your hand in the pocket also by pushing the flap towards the inside of the pocket.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the example described and shown. The flap could have any outline that one may wish for aesthetic or other reasons, for example oval instead of rectangular.

Compared to the example in FIGS. 1 to 11, it is not compulsory to provide a flap border. One could for example place a border around the notch. The back flap is also not compulsory because the upper edge of the pocket may not be fixed. The counter flap, if provided, could be made in one piece with the pocket front. One could also combine in one piece the two pieces 38 and 39 by means of the pocket bottom which would connect in one piece the upper edge of the outer wall. upper and lower edge of the lower outer wall of the pocket.

The pocket 66, 78 of FIG. 12, provided with the U-shaped slot 82, could be attached to a section of a split article as described with reference to FIGS. 1 to 11. If the notch of the dress section is enlarged by folding tabs 34, 36 as described, the U-shaped slit to be produced in the external wall 78 of the pocket must be larger than the slit 2 made in the coat of clothing. However, on the contrary, it is possible to fix a border along the notch of the coat of clothing and hem the flap body, which will therefore ultimately have a size smaller than the U-shaped slot initially formed in the clothing coat. In this case the U-shaped slot 82 in the wall external 78 must have a correspondingly reduced size relative to the U-shaped slot 2.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Method for making a flap pocket (64) in an article pan (1), characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) forming in the fabric of the article pan (1) a slot (2) along a U-shaped contour so as to define inside the U a flap body (4) continuously attached to the article face (1), and outside the U a notch (6 ) in the article section, and b) fixing around the notch (6) a pocket (38, 39, 66, 78) having a lateral opening (63) positioned to be under the flap (64, 74) .

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that: a) the tongues (34, 36) are formed in the fabric of the section of the article (1) along the U-shaped slot (2) returns to the inside of the article, and b) to fix the pocket around the notch (6) the pocket (38, 39, 66) is fixed to the tongues (34, 36).

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that one fixes a flap edge (13) along the movable edges of the flap body (4).

4. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the flap (64) is enlarged relative to the dimensions of the U-shaped slot (2) by fixing a flap edge (13) along the movable edges of the body flap (4).

5. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that the U-shaped slot is produced (2) so that at least one of its free ends (3) is bifurcated in Y to help define, along the 'notch (6), a aforementioned tongue (36) which is turned towards the inside of the article, and along the flap body (4) a flap tongue (9) to which a flap edge (13), and between the arms (11, 23) of the Y a cleanliness flap (24) which will be folded inwardly of the article section (1).

6. Method according to one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that a flap border is used

(13) which has beyond each free end (3) of the U-shaped slot (2) an extension (27) which is engaged behind the fabric of the section of article (1).

7. Method according to one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that a counter flap (28, 88) is fixed to the flap edge (13) so that the counter flap (28, 88) covers the inner face of the flap body (4).

8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that a counter-flap (28, 88) is fixed on the inner face of the flap body (4).

9. Method according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the pocket (44, 47, 66) is fixed to the back flap (28) in the vicinity or above a line (49) corresponding substantially to the hinge pin of the flap (64) to the section of article (1).

10. Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the pocket is produced by fixing around the notch (6) an upper front (43) and a lower front (46) of the pocket each connected by a 180 ° fold with an upper external wall (44) and respectively a lower external wall (47) of the pocket, so that the folds (41, 42) are turned towards one another and define between them the lateral opening (63) of the pocket, then by fixing a pocket bottom (66) to the periphery of the assembly formed by the two external pocket walls (44, 47).

11. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that to define the lateral opening of the pocket, a second U-shaped slot (82) is formed in an external wall (78) of the pocket, so as to define a counter flap (88) in the external wall of the pocket, and the counter flap (88) is fixed, at least indirectly, to the flap body (4).

12. Method according to claim 11, characterized in that the second U-shaped slot (82) is given dimensions making it possible to superimpose it on the U-shaped slot formed in the section of the article (1), and for fixing the pocket around the notch the outer edges of the two U-shaped slots are superimposed (2, 82) and a seam (84) is formed which joins these outer edges and which, at least when made, appears on the outer face of the section of the article.

13. Method according to claim 11, characterized in that the second U-shaped slot (82) is given dimensions allowing it to be superimposed on the U-shaped slot (2) formed in the section of the article (1), and to fix the counter flap (88) to the flap body, the inner edges of the two U-shaped slots (2, 82) are superimposed and a seam (83) is formed which joins these inner edges and which, at least when the fact appears on the outside of the flap.

14. Article comprising a flap pocket obtained in particular by a method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the flap (64, 74) comprises a flap body (4) which extends in one piece l 'fabric of the article pan (1) comprising the pocket, while the fabric of the article pan is notched (6) under the flap (64, 74).

15. Article according to claim 14, characterized in that the flap (64) has a flap edge (13) fixed to the flap body (4).

16. Article according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the pocket is fixed to tabs (34, 36) formed in the fabric of the article pan (1) along the notch (6) and turned over towards the inside of the article.

17. Article according to one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that a back flap (28, 88) is fixed against the inner face of the flap body (4), and the pocket (38, 39, 66, 78) is fixed to the counter flap (28,

88).

18. Article according to one of claims 14 to 17, characterized in that the pocket (38, 39, 66) comprises at least one front (43, 46) closing the notch (6) under the flap (64) to with the exception of a side opening (63) opening into the pocket.

19. Article according to one of claims 14 to 17, characterized in that it comprises two pieces of fabric (38, 39) folded at 180 ° so that the folds (41, 42) define between them the opening lateral (63) of the pocket and that each piece defines an upper (44) and respectively lower (47) external wall of the pocket and an upper (43) and respectively lower (46) front of the pocket, these fronts closing the notch (6) behind the flap (64) with the exception of the lateral opening (63).

20. Article according to one of claims 14 to 17, characterized in that the pocket comprises an external wall (78) in which is formed a U-shaped slot (82) defining inside the U a flap (88 ) fixed against the inside of the flap body (4).