EP0694641B1

EP0694641B1 - Method for preparing a chain stitch fabric of honeycomb weave and the fabric obtained thereby

Info

Publication number: EP0694641B1
Application number: EP94203511A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Giannangelo Cabrini; Andrea Pellegrini
Original assignee: MITI Manifattura Italiana Tessuti Indemagliabili SpA
Current assignee: MITI Manifattura Italiana Tessuti Indemagliabili SpA
Priority date: 1994-07-14
Filing date: 1994-12-03
Publication date: 1999-06-02
Anticipated expiration: 2014-12-03
Also published as: ITMI941474A1; DE69418869D1; ES2100823T1; IT1270619B; EP0694641A1; ES2100823T3; ITMI941474A0; DE69418869T2

Description

This invention relates to a method for preparing a chain stitch fabric of honeycomb effect and high transpiring power, and the fabrics obtained thereby.
Fabrics of the aforesaid kind are used especially in making items of clothing for sporting use.
As is well known, the chain stitch fabrics normally used for this purpose have their outer surface (known as the technical front) smooth, where the stitch loops and their dimensions are equal for all stitches pertaining to the same course and the lapping repeat is of two courses, and a uniform inner surface (technical back) where one of the components can undergo raising to obtain a pile fabric.
EP-A-0 429 802 discloses a textile fabric fabricated on a warp knitting machine wherein a set of yarns are knitted by the bottom guide bar, a set of yarns are knitted on the top guide bar and two set of yarns are knitted by a pair of middle guide bars.
Because of their excessive uniformity the stated fabrics have however a poor permeability to air and water, which means that their use is not without defects and drawbacks. Moreover these fabrics do not have a particularly pleasing appearance as they do not possess surface designs or motifs.
An object of the present invention is to configure a method for producing a fabric which does not suffer from the aforesaid defects and has a pleasant appearance. A further object ot the present invention is to provide a method which can be implemented on the plant and machinery normally used for manufacturing chain stitch fabrics without substantial and costly modification.
Said object is advantageously attained according to the present invention by a method for producing chain stitch fabric according to claim 1.
The fabric produced by the method of the invention has excellent transpirability characteristics, thus making it very suitable for use in sports clothing.
Because of the particular cellular or honeycomb weave, on the outer surface of the fabric the stitch loops of one and the same course have different dimensions and a variable arrangement; the lapping repeat is greater than two courses so as to create a small design effect enhancing both appearance and air permeability.
Such a method is also very competitive economically firstly because of a more rational configuration and use of the starting raw materials (ie the fibrous components), secondly because conventional knitting machines can be used, and thirdly because of an improved final product yield, which can have a greater intrinsic value than products currently commercially available.
The fabric produced by the method of the invention not only has a totally novel appearance but also offers a top level of comfort.
Further characteristics and advantages of the production method of the present invention will be more apparent from the description thereof given hereinafter by way of non-limiting example with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Figure 1 shows the total lapping movements of the warp knitted fabric obtained by the production method of the present invention.
Figure 2 shows the construction of the fabric produced by the present invention.
In the method of the present invention a fabric is prepared starting from four fibrous components, of which:

a first synthetic or artificial continuous filament yarn is knitted with full threading on the guide bar 1;
a second synthetic, artificial or natural continuous or discontinuous filament yarn is knitted with full threading on the guide bar 2;
a third synthetic or artificial continuous filament yarn is knitted with two-in and two-out threading on the guide bar 3;
a fourth synthetic or artificial continuous filament yarn is knitted with two-in and two-out threading on the guide bar 4.

If using a 28 or 32 gauge knitting machine, the first component yarn is advantageously knitted with 1-2/1-0 notation, the second component yarn is knitted with 0-0/4-4 notation, the third component yarn is knitted with 1-0/2-3 notation and the fourth component yarn is knitted with 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 notation. In this manner courses are obtained with some stitches formed from three components and others formed from a single component alternating with courses with stitches all formed from two components with pattern repetition every four courses (the second component with 0-0/4-4 lapping movement does not participate in stitch formation).
Figure 2 shows the path of each component yarn as appearing in the fabric. Visible on the technical front are the first component (continuous line) which operates in all stitches, and the third component (dashed line) and fourth component (dashed and dotted line) which operate individually in some stitches and coupled in others. The second component (double line) is visible on the technical back, this not participating in stitch formation but being bound by the third and fourth component.
With regard to appearance and feel, the fabric obtained by the method of the present invention has a smooth side (front) and a napped side (back).
Advantageously and according to particular requirements, the fabric can be dyed and finished by the methods usually used for chain stitch fabrics. Conventionally, the filaments of the second component are raised to form a pile.
In the method of the present invention, various fibrous components can be used for producing the fabric.
In particular, for the first, third and fourth component it is usual to use a synthetic or artificial continuous filament yarn with denier value between 22 and 77 decitex. Advantageously the second component is of synthetic, artificial or natural continuous or discontinuous filament yarn of denier value between 75 and 230 decitex.
The fabric produced by the present method advantageously has a weight per square metre of between 80 and 197 grams.
Some implementations of the method of the present invention are illustrated hereinafter.

EXAMPLE 1

A 28 gauge four bar warp knitting machine with sliding needles is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4.
Bright polyamide 6 44 dtex 12 filament yarn of three-lobe cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4, and dull polyester 130 dtex 60 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
The knitting machine is set for the following conditions:

Notation Run-in (mm/rack)

Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1340

Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 780

Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1690

Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1690
The following data apply to the headstock:

machine type 4-reed chain frame
repeat length 4 stitches
repeat height 4 needles
gauge 28 needles/inch*
stitches 17.5 stitches/cm (44.45 stitches/inch)
working height 3480 needles (124 inches).
machine height 130 inches
number of repeats 870

The following data apply to the threading:

machine height 3640 needles
working height 3480 needles
repeat height 4 needles
number of repeats 870
left selvedge 80 needles
right selvedge 80 needles

After its removal from the knitting machine, the fabric was dyed with an apparatus for dying in rope form, dried, raised and heat-set at 190° in a 10 range stenter.
The fabric obtained has a weight per square metre of 188 grams plus or minus 5%, and a height of 152 cm.

EXAMPLE 2

The knitting machine used in Example 1 is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4. Semi-dull polyamide 5 44 dtex 10 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4, and dull polyester 130 dtex 60 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
The knitting machine is set for the following conditions:

Notation Run-in (mm/rack)

Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1340

Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 780

Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1690

Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1690
The following data apply to the headstock:

machine type 4-reed chain frame
repeat length 4 stitches
repeat height 4 needles
gauge 28 needles/inch
stitches 17.5 stitches/cm (44.45 stitches/inch)
working height 3480 needles (124 inches)
machine height 130 inches
number of repeats 870

The following data apply to the threading:

EXAMPLE 3

The knitting machine used in Example 1 is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4. Semi-dull polyester 50 dtex 24 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4, and semi-dull polyester 75 dtex 24 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
The knitting machine is set for the following conditions:

Notation Run-in (mm/rack)

Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1290

Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 800

Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1590

Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1590
The following data apply to the headstock:

machine type 4-reed chain frame
repeat length 4 stitches
repeat height 4 needles
gauge 28 needles/inch
stitches 20 stitches/cm (50.8 stitches/Inch)
working height 3480 needles (124 inches)
machine height 130 inches
number of repeats 870

The following data apply to the threading:

After its removal from the knitting machine, the fabric was dyed with an apparatus for dying in rope form, dried, raised and heat-set at 215° in a 10 range stenter.
The fabric obtained has a weight per square metre of 187 grams plus or minus 5%, and a height of 152 cm.

EXAMPLE 4

The knitting machine used in Example 1 is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4.
Bright polyester 50 dtex 36 filament yarn of three-lobe cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4, and semi-dull polyester 75 dtex 24 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
The knitting machine is set for the following conditions:

Notation Run-in (mm/rack)

Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1290

Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 800

Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1590

Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1590
The following data apply to the headstock:

The following data apply to the threading:

machine height 3640 needles
working height 3480 needles
repeat height 4 needles.
number of repeats 870
left selvedge 80 needles
right selvedge 80 needles

After its removal from the knitting machine, the fabric was dyed with an apparatus for dying in rope form, dried, raised and heat-set at 215° in a 10 range stenter.
The fabric obtained has a weight per square metre of 187 grams plus or minus 5%, and a height of 152 cm.
To demonstrate the high air permeability of the fabric prepared by the method of the present invention, a laboratory test in accordance with UNI 8727 standard was carried out on the fabric obtained by the procedure of Example 1.
The air permeability in millimetres per pascal second calculated by the formula P = (0.167xF)/(AxDp) was 2 = 9.17,
where
P = air permeability in millimetres per pascal second
F = air flow in cubic centimetres per minute
A = measured surface area in square centimetres
Dp = suction in pascals.

Claims

A method for producing chain stitch fabric having a first fibrous component, a second fibrous component, a third fibrous component and a fourth fibrous component, on a knitting machine, characterised in that said fabric is prepared with a cellular or honeycomb weave, wherein

said first fibrous component is knitted into the fabric with 1-2/1-0 notation,

said second fibrous component is knitted into the fabric with 0-0/4-4 notation,

said third fibrous component is knitted into the fabric with 1-0/2-3 notation, and

said fourth fibrous component is knitted into the fabric with 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 notation.
A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that said first, third and fourth fibrous component are of continuous filament synthetic yarn.
A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that said first, third and fourth fibrous component are of continuous filament artificial yarn.
A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that said second fibrous component is of continuous filament.
A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that said second fibrous component is of discontinuous filament.
A method as claimed in claims 4 or 5, characterised in that said second fibrous component is of synthetic yarn.
A method as claimed in claim 4 or 5, characterised in that said second fibrous component is of artificial yarn.
A method as claimed in claim 4 or 5, characterised in that said second fibrous component is of natural yarn.
A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that said first, third and fourth fibrous component have a denier value of between 22 and 77 decitex.
A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that said second fibrous component has a denier valve of between 75 and 230 decitex.
A fabric produced by the method of any one of the preceding claims, characterised by having a weight per square metre of between 80 and 197 grams.