EP0678012A4 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- EP0678012A4 EP0678012A4 EP94901569A EP94901569A EP0678012A4 EP 0678012 A4 EP0678012 A4 EP 0678012A4 EP 94901569 A EP94901569 A EP 94901569A EP 94901569 A EP94901569 A EP 94901569A EP 0678012 A4 EP0678012 A4 EP 0678012A4
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- melanin
- hair
- composition
- cationic
- solubilized
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 239
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 93
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 74
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 58
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000001027 temporary hair color Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- ZCPCLAPUXMZUCD-UHFFFAOYSA-M dihexadecyl(dimethyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC ZCPCLAPUXMZUCD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 244000007835 Cyamopsis tetragonoloba Species 0.000 claims description 2
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical group C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960002788 cetrimonium chloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000003993 interaction Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- OYINQIKIQCNQOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 2-hydroxybutyl(trimethyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCC(O)C[N+](C)(C)C OYINQIKIQCNQOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims 1
- VBIIFPGSPJYLRR-UHFFFAOYSA-M Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C VBIIFPGSPJYLRR-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 abstract description 12
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 42
- 230000037308 hair color Effects 0.000 description 12
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 description 7
- 210000001699 lower leg Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 5
- 150000002978 peroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tungsten Chemical compound [W] WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 4
- 210000004919 hair shaft Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl alcohol Chemical compound OCC1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229910021578 Iron(III) chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000000969 carrier Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 3
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- GQOKIYDTHHZSCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M dimethyl-bis(prop-2-enyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C=CC[N+](C)(C)CC=C GQOKIYDTHHZSCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 238000005562 fading Methods 0.000 description 3
- RBTARNINKXHZNM-UHFFFAOYSA-K iron trichloride Chemical compound Cl[Fe](Cl)Cl RBTARNINKXHZNM-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 3
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 3
- SGNZYJXNUURYCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5,6-dihydroxyindole Chemical compound C1=C(O)C(O)=CC2=C1NC=C2 SGNZYJXNUURYCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WTDRDQBEARUVNC-LURJTMIESA-N L-DOPA Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CC1=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 WTDRDQBEARUVNC-LURJTMIESA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920000688 Poly[(2-ethyldimethylammonioethyl methacrylate ethyl sulfate)-co-(1-vinylpyrrolidone)] Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 241000238370 Sepia Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000001851 biosynthetic effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010668 complexation reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000413 hydrolysate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002609 medium Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N p-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester Natural products COC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylparaben Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3,2-dioxathietane 2,2-dioxide Chemical compound O=S1(=O)OCO1 QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DURPTKYDGMDSBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-butoxybutane Chemical compound CCCCOCCCC DURPTKYDGMDSBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QYYMDNHUJFIDDQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-chloro-2-methyl-1,2-thiazol-3-one;2-methyl-1,2-thiazol-3-one Chemical compound CN1SC=CC1=O.CN1SC(Cl)=CC1=O QYYMDNHUJFIDDQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 244000215068 Acacia senegal Species 0.000 description 1
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000283690 Bos taurus Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000238366 Cephalopoda Species 0.000 description 1
- 241001340526 Chrysoclista linneella Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920000084 Gum arabic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241000282414 Homo sapiens Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 1
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000289 Polyquaternium Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241000288906 Primates Species 0.000 description 1
- 102000004142 Trypsin Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000631 Trypsin Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000003425 Tyrosinase Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108060008724 Tyrosinase Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000000205 acacia gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010489 acacia gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000005903 acid hydrolysis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011149 active material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001476 alcoholic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000012670 alkaline solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003113 alkalizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000005233 alkylalcohol group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940027983 antiseptic and disinfectant quaternary ammonium compound Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012431 aqueous reaction media Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000440 bentonite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000278 bentonite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N bentoquatam Chemical compound O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Al]O[Al]=O SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019445 benzyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- -1 carbitols Chemical compound 0.000 description 1
- 150000007942 carboxylates Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002738 chelating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001805 chlorine compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000004737 colorimetric analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940098363 cuttle fish ink Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000003111 delayed effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 description 1
- VAYGXNSJCAHWJZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl sulfate Chemical compound COS(=O)(=O)OC VAYGXNSJCAHWJZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OWMBTIRJFMGPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethylamino 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CN(C)OC(=O)C(C)=C OWMBTIRJFMGPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- WSDISUOETYTPRL-UHFFFAOYSA-N dmdm hydantoin Chemical compound CC1(C)N(CO)C(=O)N(CO)C1=O WSDISUOETYTPRL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000605 extraction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000012456 homogeneous solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003301 hydrolyzing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000011065 in-situ storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002207 metabolite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000609 methyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004292 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001923 methylcellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002216 methylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000020477 pH reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001024 permanent hair color Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001267 polyvinylpyrrolidone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000036 polyvinylpyrrolidone Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000013855 polyvinylpyrrolidone Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000010232 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004405 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003415 propylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003856 quaternary ammonium compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000376 reactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011541 reaction mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012552 review Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005063 solubilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007928 solubilization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002195 soluble material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- SFVFIFLLYFPGHH-UHFFFAOYSA-M stearalkonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC1=CC=CC=C1 SFVFIFLLYFPGHH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940057981 stearalkonium chloride Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000005728 strengthening Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009182 swimming Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001897 terpolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- UMQCZSNKDUWJRI-UHFFFAOYSA-M tris(2-hydroxyethyl)-octadecylazanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](CCO)(CCO)CCO UMQCZSNKDUWJRI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000012588 trypsin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000029663 wound healing Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
- A61K8/492—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid having condensed rings, e.g. indol
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
- A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
Definitions
- This invention relates to compositions and methods for temporarily coloring hair using a melanin derivative that is obtained by chemically modifying melanin to impart water solubility, which melanin derivative is characterized by anionic substituent groups when solubilized.
- melanin precursors such as 5,6 dihydroxyindole (DHI)
- DHI 5,6 dihydroxyindole
- U.S. Patent 3,194,734 Seemuller et al.
- U.S. Patent 4,808,190 Garnier et al.
- U.S. Patent 4,888,027 Garnier et al.
- the use of these melanin precursors has many disadvantages.
- the primary disadvantage is that the hair colors initially produced with melanin precursors are undesirable achromatic colors (cold grays and blacks) .
- Melanin precursor-dyed hair must undergo a second treatment step with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide to achieve natural chromatic colors (warm yellows, reds, and browns).
- an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide
- melanin precursors are expensive and, because they are highly reactive, are difficult to work with.
- the use of melanin precursors also results in undesirable scalp and skin staining.
- the hair colors produced using melanin precursors are permanent hair colors. That is, hair color must grow out with the hair. Often, consumers prefer to use a temporary hair color that will wash out after one or two shampoos. However, temporary hair colors are unacceptable to consumers unless they resist fading in sunlight, do not rub off, and do not bleed when in contact with perspiration, rain, or swimming pool water.
- Melanin pigment itself is unacceptable for use in a temporary hair dye composition because it merely coats the hair shaft without appreciable affinity for the hair shaft. Consequently, the melanin is easily rubbed off the hair and leaves hair feeling rough.
- an aqueous composition comprising a water soluble melanin (as hereinafter described) and at least one water soluble or water dispersible cationic material provides a hair coloring composition suitable to impart a temporary color to hair that achieves these characteristics.
- U.S. Patent 5,006,331 discloses the use of melanin that has been solubilized by triethanolamine and oxidized by ferric chloride.
- the resultant suspension mixture of melanin, triethanolamine and ferric chloride is used to obtain compositions for skin protection, for wound healing and for strengthening hair.
- the melanin is rendered water soluble by mildly hydrolyzing the melanin using Trypsin in an alkaline medium for several days at room temperature.
- Melanin is present in the skin protectant compositions of Gaskin in an amount of from about 0.001 to about 0.09%, along with from about 0.0001% to about 0.27% ferric chloride, both being on a weight basis.
- the skin protectant composition further contains up to about 5% by weight triethanolamine. While not providing a range of concentration for the amount of melanin hydrolysate for the hair protectant compositions according to her invention, Gaskin states at column 6, line 30 that it is present therein in an amount of only about 0.0015% by weight of the total composition. However, this level of Gaskin's melanin hydrolysate is wholly insufficient to impart a color to hair. Moreover, neither of Gaskin's methods provide a melanin material of an anionic character.
- Wolfram et al. The Mechanism of Hair Bleaching. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. , 21:875-900 (1970), discloses extraction of melanin from hair by acid hydrolysis, and considers the reaction of melanin pigment with hydrogen peroxide. Wolfram isolates the peroxide reacted melanin by destroying the peroxide with platinum black after a reaction period of sixty minutes.
- PCT Application WO 91/17738 discloses the use of soluble melanin derivatives in a process for producing lightly colored melanins that are aesthetically suitable for use in cosmetic compositions.
- an aqueous composition for temporarily coloring hair comprising water soluble melanin derivatives and at least one water soluble or water dispersible cationic material. Processes for temporarily coloring hair using that composition are also provided. DETAILED PB8CRIPTIQW Of THE IWYSBH ⁇ H
- the present invention provides aqueous compositions comprising water soluble melanin and at least one water soluble or water dispersible cationic material, which compositions are suitable for use as temporary hair colors.
- the water soluble melanin derivatives suitable in the compositions and methods of the present invention are hereinafter referred to as "solubilized melanins," which terminology is believed to be consistent with the nomenclature used in the Wolfram article and used generally in the melanin chemistry art.
- the solubilized melanins useful in the compositions of the present invention are obtained by chemically modifying melanin in such manner as to impart water solubility.
- An essential aspect of the present invention is that the solubilized melanin in combination with a water soluble or water dispersible cationic material provides a hair dye composition which promotes affinity of the solubilized melanin for the hair.
- the solubilized melanin useful in the present invention is believed to form a complex with the cationic material that has such affinity for the hair. It is further believed that the solubilized melanin contains one or more anionic substituent group that not only aid in its solubilization but also permit complexation with the cationic material. Such solubilized melanin is hereinafter referred to as anionic solubilized melanin. Melaninic materials that are dissoluble in water but which do not complex with a cationic material, for example, the melanin materials described in U.S. 5,006,331 to Gaskin, are not suitable in the compositions of the present invention. Typically, the solubilized melanins used herein have a water solubility of at least 0.1%.
- solubilized melanins generally do not have a water solubility in excess of about 10%. Generally, the water solubility ranges from about 0.1 to about 5%. As used herein the term “melanin” refers to the insoluble pigment.
- the solublized melanin of the present invention is made, as taught by the above-mentioned Wolfram reference, by reacting melanin with hydrogen peroxide in dilute aqueous alkaline solution, generally at room temperature.
- the Wolfram article is incorporated herein by reference thereto.
- the reaction proceeds typically for 30 minutes to several hours, preferably for 30 to 120 minutes, depending on the source the melanin and the concentrations of the reactants.
- the reaction is terminated well before the peroxide begins to bleach the melanin species present in the reaction mixture.
- the peroxide reacts with the melanin in such manner as to provide carboxylate groups to the structure of the melanin, which groups are anionic in aqueous media having a pH above 4, preferably approximately neutral, and most preferably alkaline. While solubilized melanin as obtained above may be isolated by acidification of the aqueous reaction medium, it is not preferred to do so as there is some evidence to suggest that solublized melanin in solid form ages and is less suitable in the preparation of the compositions of the present invention.
- the soluble melanin is preferably used in the form of dilute aqueous solution having a pH above 4, preferably from about 6 to about 10, most preferably from about 7 to about 8.
- Freshly prepared solubilized melanin in solid form may also be used with good success.
- the solubilized melanin that is useful in this invention may be obtained from naturally-occurring, chemically synthesized, or biosynthetic melanin.
- melanins may be isolated from a variety of natural sources, including human, primate, bovine and other animals.
- squid melanin (sepia melanin) is commercially available.
- biosynthetic melanin can be made by reaction of dopa and tyrosinase.
- various synthetic routes for making melanin are known, in particular, by the oxidation of dopa under controlled conditions.
- the source of the melanin is not critical.
- the term "melanin" refers to the insoluble pigment.
- solubilized melanin that is suitable for use with this invention may be obtained by any method that imparts an anionic character to the melanin molecule, i.e., solubilized melanin capable of forming a complex with the water soluble or water dispersible cationic material.
- the amount of solubilized melanin required in the composition of this invention will vary according to factors such as the carrier used, the initial hair color of the consumer prior to dyeing, and the desired end hair color. Based on applicant's theory of the invention, the amount of solubilized melanin present in the composition would also depend upon the degree to which it complexes with the cationic material, i.e., the extent of anionic charges present on the melanin molecule.
- the anionic character of the solubilized melanin obtained in accordance with the Wolfram article can be varied depending upon the severity and extent of the reaction between melanin and hydrogen peroxide. Thus, a more soluble material will be obtained with increasingly severe reaction conditions or longer duration of contact with peroxide.
- a tinctorially effective amount of solubilized melanin should be used.
- the amount of solubilized melanin required is at least about 0.1%, typically from about 0.1% up to its solubility limit in the composition, but generally less than about 5.0%, and preferably from about 0.2 to about 3.0%, all concentrations being on a weight basis.
- a water soluble or water dispersible cationic material is the second essential constituent of the hair dye composition, along with the solubilized melanin. While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that the cationic material complexes with the solubilized melanin molecule, especially anionic solubilized melanin, which complex has an affinity for hair. Accordingly, the complex imparts a temporary color to the hair that, in view of its affinity for the hair, does not bleed when in contact with water. The color is also resistant to fading by sunlight, does not stain skin when properly applied to hair, and is easy to use. The hair color is easily removed by shampooing, which appears to negate the affinity of the complex for the hair.
- water soluble or “water dispersible” is meant that an amount of cationic material sufficient to complex with the soluble melanin is either dissolved or suspended in the aqueous hair dye composition.
- solubility of the cationic material is at least 0.1 g/100 g of composition, preferably from about 0.5 to 10 g/100 g of composition.
- cationic material means a water soluble or water dispersible cationic material.
- the cationic materials that may be used in the present invention must, when combined with the solubilized melanin, be capable of forming a composition that is suitable for use as a temporary hair color. That is, the mixture of cationic material and solubilized melanin must be either water soluble or water dispersible under the conditions at which they will be used.
- the cationic material and solubilized melanin will form a stable homogeneous solution or emulsion.
- Such cationic materials include cationic surface active agents, cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, and salts thereof. Compounds that assume a cationic character at a certain pH are also cationic materials in accordance with this invention. Suitable cationic materials that may be used are set forth, generally, in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook (1st Ed., 1988) at pages 40-42 (quaternary ammonium compounds) and in McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents (North Amer. Ed. 1987) at page 318 (identifying cationic and amphoteric surface active materials) . Suitability may be determined by one of ordinary skill in the hair dye art by simple experimentation.
- Suitable cationic materials are positively charged tetra-substitutednitrogenderivatives having at least one counterion which is an anionic moiety, e.g., a halide or methosulfate.
- illustra ⁇ tive cationic materials are alkyl trimonium halides, alkylalkonium halides and the dialkyldimonium halides, wherein the alkyl groups have about 10 to about 22 carbons and the halide is Cl or Br, for example, cetrimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, myristrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, etc.; quaternium compounds, for example, quaternium-16.
- quaternium-26, quaternium 60 etc. polymeric quaternium compounds, for example, polyquaternium l, polyquaternium- 6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-11, etc.; cationic resins such as guar hydroxypropyltri onium chloride and chitosan; and amphoteric surface active agents such as sodium cocoamphopropionate.
- the cationic material should be water soluble or water dispersible within the concentration ranges contemplated herein, in order to effect complexation with the solubilized melanin.
- alkyltrimonium and dialkyldimonium chlorides especially stearatrimonium chloride and dicetyldimonium chloride
- polyquaternium-6 which is a polymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride sold under the trade name Merquat 100
- polyquaternium-39 which is a terpolymer of acrylic acid, dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the trade name Merquat 3330
- polyquaternium-11 which is a polymer obtained by reaction of dimethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminomethacrylate sold under the trade names Gafquat 734 and 755.
- the cationic material is present in an amount sufficient to form the aforementioned complex in the composition in sufficient concentration to effect the temporary color to hair.
- substantially all of the cationic material and the solubilized melanin are complexed.
- the amount of cationic material present in the composition will depend on the number of cationic charges borne by the cationic material, as well as the number of anionic charges to be neutralized on the solubilized melanin. While some degree of experimentation may be required to precisely determine the amount of cationic material, in general, the com- position should contain from about 0.1 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10%, most prefereably from 0.2 to 5% cationic material by weight of the total composition.
- the weight ratio of solubilized melanin to cationic material varies widely. In general, this weight ratio will be from about 1:4 to about 10:1, preferably from about 1:1 to about 5:1.
- compositions of this invention are stable for a period of time, as demonstrated in Example 9. That is, hair can be temporarily dyed immediately after the solubilized melanin is combined with the cationic material, or application of the composition can be delayed.
- the pH of the composition may not be so low or high as to damage hair, the composition is useful at a wide range of pH values.
- the correct pH for a particular composition is a function of the type of cationic material used and the amount: of solubilized melanin. In general, however, the pH of the composition will be about 3 to about 10, preferably 4 to 8.
- solubilized melanin and the cationic material it may be desirable to include cosmetically acceptable carriers in the compositions of this invention.
- Acceptable carriers vary from simple solutions or dispersions with aqueous or alcoholic solvents, to complex mixtures that contain thickening agents.
- the carriers that may be used in accordance with this invention must be compatible with solubilized melanin.
- adjuvants or additives that are commonly found in hair color compositions, in amounts effective to provide their intended function.
- adjuvants or additives include solvents, solubilizing agents, thickening agents, alkalizing agents, chelating agents, preservatives and fragrances.
- the solvents that may be used include organic solvents or solvent systems that are compatible with solubilized melanin.
- organic solvents include alcohols, particularly alkyl alcohols of 1-6 carbons, especially ethanol and propanol; and glycols of up to about 10 carbons, especially diethyleneglycol, monobutyl ether, carbitols, and benzyl alcohol.
- the thickening agents that may be used in the compositions of this invention include: polyvinylpyrrolidone, gum arabic, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose, and inorganic thickeners such as bentonite.
- the additional solubilizing agents that may be used in the compositions of this invention include ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
- the preservatives that may be used in the compositions of this invention include: methyl- and propyl paraben, 2-phenoxyethanol, DMDMH, and Kathon CG.
- the hair color compositions of this invention may be prepared by methods known in the art generally by simple admixture of the various constituents. However, it is generally preferred, especially when the final product pH will be acidic, to use an aqueous solution of the solubilized melanin. It is further preferred to form a premix of the solubilized melanin and the cationic material to which the remaining constituents are added.
- This invention also provides a process for temporarily coloring hair, which comprises applying to the hair an aqueous composition comprising solubilized melanin and at least one cationic material.
- the compositions may be applied to the hair by conventional techniques known in the art. For example, they can be poured over the hair or applied with an applicator.
- the amount of time for which the dye composition must be in contact with the hair is not critical. It may vary from about 2 minutes to about 50 minutes, but is usually from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes.
- the hair may be dyed by forming the hair dye complex obtained from the interaction of the solubilized melanin and the cationic material directly on the hair.
- the process may be practiced by applying to the hair two aqueous compositions sequentially and without intermediate rinsing, one of said two aqueous compositions containing the solubilized melanin and the other containing the cationic material.
- the hair dyeing complex is formed on the hair in situ and is evenly distributed by gentle massage of the scalp.
- the amounts of the solubilized melanin and cationic material are the same as when a single aqueous composition is employed.
- the concentrations of both essential constituents are seen to be based on the total weight of the two separately applied compositions.
- the composition containing the cationic material is first applied to the hair, followed by application of the solubilized melanin-containing composition.
- the following examples are illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of this invention in any manner.
- sepia melanin was isolated from cuttlefish ink sacs and was used to prepare solubilized melanin according to the method described in Wolfram, et al., J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemist, 21:875-900 (1970).
- the Hunter tristimulus values used below are measures of reflected light and describe color using three parameters: L, a, and b.
- the more positive “a” is, the redder the color; the more negative “a” is, the greener the color.
- the Hunter colorimetry device and system is used widely in evaluating the color of hair.
- Solution 1 40 mg of freshly prepared solubilized melanin in particulate form was dissolved in 5 ml of water (Solution 1) .
- 40 mg dicetyldimonium chloride was added to 5 ml of water and stirred until homogeneous (Solution 2) .
- Solution 1 was stirred into Solution 2 (Solution 3) .
- the pH of the 10 ml of combined solutions was 7.1.
- the dyed tress retained its color after it was rinsed with water, but was restored to its original color after it was shampooed.
- Example 2 The procedure described in Example 1 was repeated, except, prior to being applied to the hair, the pH of Solution 3 was adjusted to 4.4 using 0.1 M HC1. The results are set forth in Table 2.
- Example 2 The procedure described in Example 1 was repeated except, prior to being applied to the hair, the pH of Solution 3 was adjusted to 9.0 using dilute ammonia. The results are set forth in Table 3 .
- Example 4 4.2 Dyed Piedmont tress The procedure described in Example 4 was repeated, except, prior to being applied to the hair, the pH of Solution 30 was adjusted to 4.4 using 0.1 M HC1. The results are set forth in Table 5.
- Example 7 The procedure described in Example 6 was repeated except, prior to being applied to the hair, the pH of Solution 300 was adjusted to 4.5 using 0.1 M HC1. The results are set forth in Table 7.
- Formulation No. 9.1 was prepared by dissolving 40 mg of Polyquat 11 in 5 ml of water (Solution 1) . 40 mg of freshly prepared solubilized melanin in particulate form was dissolved in 5 ml water (Solution 2) . Solutions 1 and 2 were combined (Solution 3).
- Formulation No. 9.2 was prepared by dissolving 80 mg of Polyquat 11 in 5 ml of water (Solution 1) . 80 mg of freshly prepared solubilized melanin in particulate form was dissolved in 5 ml of water (Solution 2) . Solutions 1 and 2 were combined (Solution 3). Each Formulation was applied to a tress of Piedmont hair and a tress of gray hair for 10 minutes, both immediately and 24 hours after the Formulation was prepared. The appearance of the solutions did not change during this time. The difference in hair color between the immediate and the 24 hour application is insignificant. The results are set forth in Table 9.
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Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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US97861192A | 1992-11-19 | 1992-11-19 | |
US978611 | 1992-11-19 | ||
PCT/US1993/011174 WO1994010968A1 (en) | 1992-11-19 | 1993-11-17 | Compositions and methods for temporarily coloring hair using solubilized melanin |
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EP0678012A1 EP0678012A1 (en) | 1995-10-25 |
EP0678012A4 true EP0678012A4 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) | 1995-11-29 |
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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EP94901569A Withdrawn EP0678012A1 (en) | 1992-11-19 | 1993-11-17 | Compositions and methods for temporarily coloring hair using solubilized melanin |
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EP (1) | EP0678012A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) |
AU (1) | AU5611694A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) |
CA (1) | CA2154750A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) |
WO (1) | WO1994010968A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) |
Families Citing this family (10)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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ZA937753B (en) * | 1992-11-19 | 1994-04-19 | Bristol Myers Squibb Co | Compositions and methods for temporarily coloring hair using chemically synthesized or biosynthetic water-soluble melanin |
US5702712A (en) * | 1995-12-06 | 1997-12-30 | Clairol, Incorporated | Melanoquaternary compounds and their use as hair dyes and for skin treatment |
US5686084A (en) * | 1995-12-06 | 1997-11-11 | Clairol Incorporated | Synthesis of quaternary melanin compounds and their use as hair dyes or for skin treatment |
FR2783520B1 (fr) | 1998-09-21 | 2000-11-10 | Oreal | Nouveaux 4-hydroxyindoles cationiques, leur utilisation pour la teinture d'oxydation des fibres keratiniques, compositions tinctoriales et procede de teinture |
FR2817467B1 (fr) * | 2000-12-04 | 2003-01-10 | Oreal | Composition de teinture pour fibres keratiniques comprenant un polymere associatif et un polymere a motifs acrylamide, halogenure de dialkyldiallylammonium et acide carboxylique vinylique |
US7837742B2 (en) | 2003-05-19 | 2010-11-23 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic compositions comprising a polymer and a colorant |
US20130183263A1 (en) | 2012-01-17 | 2013-07-18 | Steven Hoffman | Pharmaceutical compositions and methods |
US10272068B2 (en) | 2012-01-17 | 2019-04-30 | Tyme, Inc. | Pharmaceutical compositions and methods |
US10646552B2 (en) | 2012-01-17 | 2020-05-12 | Tyme, Inc. | Pharmaceutical compositions and methods |
US9585841B2 (en) | 2013-10-22 | 2017-03-07 | Tyme, Inc. | Tyrosine derivatives and compositions comprising them |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0455175A2 (en) * | 1990-05-02 | 1991-11-06 | Taenaka Mining Co. Ltd. | Modified melanin |
WO1992016189A1 (en) * | 1990-10-25 | 1992-10-01 | Yale University | Soluble melanin |
FR2695033A1 (fr) * | 1992-08-25 | 1994-03-04 | Oreal | Polymère colorant mélanique hydrosoluble, son procédé d'abtention et son utilisation dans des compositions cosmétiques de coloration. |
EP0598407A2 (en) * | 1992-11-19 | 1994-05-25 | Bristol-Myers Squibb Company | Compositions and methods for temporarily coloring hair using chemically synthesized or biosynthetic water-soluble melanin |
Family Cites Families (1)
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US4806344A (en) * | 1987-01-05 | 1989-02-21 | Gaskin Frances C | Sun protectant composition and method |
-
1993
- 1993-11-17 EP EP94901569A patent/EP0678012A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1993-11-17 CA CA002154750A patent/CA2154750A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 1993-11-17 AU AU56116/94A patent/AU5611694A/en not_active Abandoned
- 1993-11-17 WO PCT/US1993/011174 patent/WO1994010968A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0455175A2 (en) * | 1990-05-02 | 1991-11-06 | Taenaka Mining Co. Ltd. | Modified melanin |
WO1992016189A1 (en) * | 1990-10-25 | 1992-10-01 | Yale University | Soluble melanin |
FR2695033A1 (fr) * | 1992-08-25 | 1994-03-04 | Oreal | Polymère colorant mélanique hydrosoluble, son procédé d'abtention et son utilisation dans des compositions cosmétiques de coloration. |
EP0598407A2 (en) * | 1992-11-19 | 1994-05-25 | Bristol-Myers Squibb Company | Compositions and methods for temporarily coloring hair using chemically synthesized or biosynthetic water-soluble melanin |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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See also references of WO9410968A1 * |
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AU5611694A (en) | 1994-06-08 |
EP0678012A1 (en) | 1995-10-25 |
WO1994010968A1 (en) | 1994-05-26 |
CA2154750A1 (en) | 1994-05-26 |
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