EP0661936B1 - Three dimensional pattern design method for garments fitted with sleeves - Google Patents

Abstract

Three dimensional pattern design method for garments fitted with sleeves. The invention concerns a general pattern method for speedily designing garments for men, women and children without further alterations being required. The method is characterized by the use of a particular structural line (A1-G-A3) determined by the body's morphology and attitude, by specific proportional calculations of the waistline, the collar and shoulder slope using reference values (Vx, Vy), by a specific relational and three-dimensional calculation of the armhole-sleeve fitting using transfer lines (G-C, G-C1) defining a reference value (Vz), by the calculation of two tension points (P, P1) for enabling a proper fitting of the garment to the shoulder, and by a single drawing line incorporating all the garment's basic components into the assembly plan. The method according to the invention is especially suitable for use in the dressmaking industry.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a method of designing patterns for pieces of garments with sleeves, in particular jackets, blasers, jackets, coats, dresses, shirts for men, women and children without limitation of length and of any material in warp and weft. , natural or synthetic fibers or leather.

The design of a garment patronage is the operation which consists in carrying out the manual or computer layout of a geometric architectural construction linked to given structural references. The particular contours obtained as well as certain specific landmarks internal or external to the layout, determined from the main anatomical points of the human body, define by a precise drawing the basic image of the constitutive figures of a garment. All of these different drawn pieces form the pattern or basic model of the future garment. Subsequently, from this layout, the technician or model maker will cut the pieces in the materials chosen for the manufacture of the garment.

Traditionally, two separate methods have been used to make a basic model, the flat construction technique and the mannequin modeling technique. The use of one or the other of these methods or both simultaneously, is applied according to the objectives to be reached and according to the chosen route: artisanal, semi-industrial or industrial. The combined practice of the two techniques often proves necessary in a search for complementarity in relation to the drawbacks or reciprocal advantages, theoretical or practical, of each process.

Construction by modeling, an ancestral technique still widely used by haute couture, creative offices and artisan-tailors has the advantage of offering an overview of the volumes sought, makes it possible to capture the first silouhette and allows a wide creative expression from the design of the model. However, this technique lacks precision by nature, plays with the chic of the garment without any real logical approach, and presents the physical aspect of the model without any real ability to finalization. In this sense, a volume construction always requires a later flat adjustment.

The compulsory association of the two processes testifies to their reciprocal technical weaknesses. Both are no longer sufficient to meet the demands of modern industrial manufacturing as well as the rapid and diversified evolution of fashion today.

The traditional flat construction offers a method of applying measurements and calculations offering relative accuracy of the layout. The practical procedure is carried out first by drawing the support structures or construction lines based on the anatomical points, then by drawing the required shapes: neck, armholes, forks, various lines and curves. The tracing of the assembly and finishing elements of the seams and filled completes the procedure. This route is carried out according to a method determined from the measurements requested for a reference base.

This system allows the two-dimensional drawing, piece by piece, of a base intended for industrial manufacturing. Nevertheless, the technique remains complex, rigid and of a limited creative expression, mainly due to the numerous mathematical or geometric calculations inherent in the process. On the other hand, all the parts are designed separately and the transfer curves of the assemblies are made according to fairly approximate and not very coherent plot calculations. From the use of this method it results, for example, that no harmonious original connection links together collar and neckline, sleeve and armhole and proportional bends, if any. The result obtained masters with difficulty the notion of plumbness, volume and shape control. The same applies to control of the fullness, orientation and advancement of the sleeves as well as the position of the mounting seams. The weakness of the process is demonstrated with the difficulties of assembling biased seams at different degrees of certain materials such as, for example, polyester microfibers.

In general, the application of the traditional flat construction process does not effectively achieve the fundamental principle of "well-being" of clothing and requires, to meet the requirements of modern industrial manufacturing, a very excessive lead time. By the necessity of having to carry out numerous tests, prototypes and subsequent alterations, the two abovementioned construction methods too often lead to a loss of time and profitability.

Such a traditional and two-dimensional process intended to produce a pattern for pieces of garments with sleeves, in particular jackets, blazers, jackets, coats, dresses and shirts, is described, for example, in document FR-A-560,154 which dates from 1922. This process is based solely on the measurements taken on the subject, to the exclusion of so-called 'proportion' measurements. It can therefore easily be seen that this process has no industrial application.

The present invention aims precisely to remedy the aforementioned drawbacks and to make it possible to design patterns of pieces with sleeves for men, women and children without limitation of length and in any material made of natural or synthetic fibers or leather.

The present invention therefore relates to a method for designing three-dimensional patterns for pieces of clothing with sleeves, in particular jackets, blazers, jackets, coats, dresses, shirts for men, women and children without any length limitation in any material in warp and weft, natural or synthetic fibers or leather, process by which a plurality of structural lines are first drawn, in particular the waist line, the upright lines, the neck lines, the hip line, the line of the pool.

• on trace un axe théorique du profil du buste au moyen d'une ligne à deux segments, brisée en un point particulier dénommé point de gravité, marquant l'angle de projection du bassin vers l'avant et, par réaction, inclinée dans son segment supérieur de 6 à 8 ^º vers l'arrière, cette ligne constituant la ligne de référence fondamentale pour la construction du vêtement et étant dénommée ligne de corps ;
• on détermine la position spécifique de la manche symétriquement au segment supérieur de la ligne de référence ;
• on détermine une première valeur de référence (Vx) par le tracé d'une droite théorique perpendiculaire à la ligne de taille, cette valeur étant comprise entre le point d'intersection de cette ligne théorique et de la ligne de taille, et le point d'intersection de la ligne d'orientation de manche dos et de la ligne de taille ;
• on effectue un calcul géométrique proportionnel et spécifique du cintrage de la taille à l'aide de la première valeur de référence (Vx);

• on détermine une deuxième valeur de référence (Vy) sur la ligne du milieu devant par la différence comprise entre les points de passage de la hauteur théorique d'encolure dos et de la ligne d'épaule devant, cette différence déterminant en ordonnée l'exacte deuxième valeur de référence (Vy),

• on effectue un calcul géométrique proportionnel et spécifique entre points d'encolure, hauteur d'encolure et pentes d'épaule à l'aide de la dite deuxième valeur de référence (Vy) ;
• on effectue un calcul géométrique relationnel, tridimensionnel et spécifique de l'emboîtement emmanchure-manche à l'aide de lignes de report de galbes constituées par les tangentes à l'emmanchure issues du point de gravité définissant à l'issue une troisième valeur de référence particulière (Vz) ;
• on détermine deux points de tension dénommés respectivement point porteur dos et point porteur devant, et permettant d'affiner le réglage du patronage pour obtenir un emboîtement intégral du vêtement sur l'épaule, par un calcul spécifique sur la pente d'épaule théorique dos à l'intersection d'une droite issue du milieu de la ligne d'épaule dos et perpendiculaire à la ligne théorique d'encolure, et on reporte la distance entre le point porteur dos et le point d'intersection de la ligne d'épaule dos et du segment supérieur de la ligne de corps sur la pente d'épaule théorique devant à partir du point d'intersection de la ligne d'épaule et du segment supérieur ; et
• on procède à un renversement spécifique de la valeur pince-poitrine permettant d'éliminer ou d'utiliser un excédent de matière en fonction du volume recherché .

According to the invention, to obtain a structural layout:

• we draw a theoretical axis of the bust profile by means of a line with two segments, broken at a particular point called gravity point, marking the angle of projection of the pelvis forward and, by reaction, inclined in its segment 6 to 8 ^º higher towards the rear, this line constituting the fundamental reference line for the construction of the garment and being called the body line;
• the specific position of the sleeve is determined symmetrically to the upper segment of the reference line;
• a first reference value (Vx) is determined by drawing a theoretical straight line perpendicular to the size line, this value being between the point of intersection of this theoretical line and the size line, and the point d 'intersection of the back sleeve orientation line and the waist line;
• a proportional and specific geometric calculation of the size bending is carried out using the first reference value (Vx);

• a second reference value (Vy) is determined on the center line in front by the difference between the crossing points of the theoretical height of the back neck and the shoulder line in front, this difference determining the exact ordinate second reference value (Vy),

• a proportional and specific geometric calculation is carried out between neck points, neck height and shoulder slopes using the said second reference value (Vy);
• we perform a relational, three-dimensional and specific geometric calculation of the armhole-sleeve interlocking using curve transfer lines formed by the tangents to the armhole from the point of gravity defining at the end a third reference value particular (Vz);
• two tension points are determined, respectively called back carrier point and front carrier point, and making it possible to refine the adjustment of the pattern to obtain an integral fitting of the garment on the shoulder, by a specific calculation on the theoretical shoulder slope back to the intersection of a straight line from the middle of the back shoulder line and perpendicular to the theoretical neck line, and the distance between the back carrier point and the point of intersection of the back shoulder line is transferred and from the upper segment of the body line on the theoretical shoulder slope ahead from the point of intersection of the shoulder line and the upper segment; and
• a specific reversal of the chest clip value is carried out, making it possible to eliminate or use an excess of material depending on the volume sought.

All the components of the garment are part of the construction plan.

This original structured layout is the result of practical conclusions from a precise observation of contemporary morphology as a whole. The observation relates to a significant change in the attitude of the body by a generally accentuated back arch. Based on this new phenomenon, in-depth research has defined, in the axis of the body profile, a theoretical point of gravity located on the waist line. This point marks the angle of projection of the advancement of the pelvis and, by reaction, of the reversal of the back bust in an average measurement between 6 and 8 °.

This characteristic according to the invention offers, from the design of the structure, priority to the "well-being" of the garment, avoids the drawbacks of the usual processes which have difficulty mastering both the balance and the style, establishes the balance of clothing and considerably facilitates the future gradation in sizes.

The proportional bending value called Vx applies as a basic rule to obtain a good placement of the warp and weft lines, the good overall behavior back and front pieces, thus participating from the basic layout to the ease and elegance of the garment.

The proportional value called Vy applies whatever the size or the model envisaged, allows a more precise adaptation of the garment at the level of the aforementioned passage or support zones, by eliminating a significant part of the constraints due to the front bending movements. or back, movements that cause an increase and a decrease in the front bust length or the back bust length. This characteristic according to the invention more particularly allows control of the correct positioning of the neck and shoulder slopes, an essential basis for any successful gradation.

Thanks to the technical possibilities offered by the invention, depending on the style or appearance desired, the position of the sleeve can conform to the attached plans or vary according to the following degrees: 22.5 ° - 30 ° - 45 ° - 67.5 ° - 90 °.

This characteristic according to the invention allows the precise calculation of the adaptation of the garment with ease to the movements of extension and retraction of the arm.

The two theoretical points defined by a specific precise calculation and called bearing points, are located respectively on the back shoulder slope line and on the front shoulder line. These particular points of tension make it possible to refine the outline of the fitting of the garment on the shoulder at the level of the attachment zones and to contribute in this to the general "well-being", the process authorizes from the basic layout, the registration of all the components of the garment in the construction plan, allows to systematically obtain identical assembly seams by simplifying the development of industrial patronage, thus making the calculation of approximate lines, establishes balancing from the start and facilitates gradation by linking it closely to the construction plane. He controls the fogging related to the assembly of the armhole-head of sleeve and mainly controls the assembly of the seams "biased" to different degrees.

The aesthetic advantages linked to the process allow control of the volume and the desired shape, perfectly master both the balance and the style and offer from the design of the structure, priority to the "well-being" of the garment.

Other features of the invention are the subject of the appended sub-claims.

The invention will be better understood, and other objects, advantages and characteristics thereof will appear more clearly on reading the description which follows of the preferred embodiments given without limitation and to which four plates of drawings are annexed. in which Figures 1 to 4 represent an example of the progressive application on a flat construction plane, of the various characteristics of the three-dimensional pattern design process for a basic model of a jacket with sleeves of size 38-40, for a woman of 1.65 -1.68 meter. The model presented comprises 3 separate component parts: half-back, half-front and sleeve. According to the detailed description which follows, the outline of each part is established at the end of a course of geometric calculations carried out according to a particular procedure, determined by the characteristics of the invention.

According to FIG. 1, the horizontal structural lines are first drawn on a support of format 1000 x 1000 mm using following precise measurements: waist line at 550 mm from the upper edge of the support, all other horizontal references will be drawn in parallel with it. The back post line is 175mm from the waist and the dotted neckline line at 405mm from the waist. This line is a theoretical reference according to a height height-back and a height height-front different. The line continues with the hip line at 110 mm from the waist, the pelvis line at 210 mm from the waist, and the finished length at 315 mm from the waist, for a total height of 720 mm from the upper line. at the bottom line. According to the invention, the structural lines drawn, the pivot point or point of gravity called point G is determined on the waist line at 450 mm from the left edge of the support. The off-center position obtained is explained by the need to grant a larger tracing area to the front part than to the back part depending, depending on the model sought, on a crossover or any particular originality.

Still according to the invention and as indicated above, a line inclined 6 to 8 ° backwards towards the mid-back is drawn at the start of point G. For the present demonstration, an inclination of 7 ° has been chosen, as shown in the attached drawings. This straight line reaches the lines of the back-pillar and back-neck at points A and A1. Then from point G, we draw a perpendicular to the waist line towards the finished length. This straight line cuts the line of the pelvis in A2 and reaches the finished length in A3. The line formed passes through the points A1, A, G, A2, A3, corresponds to the morphological attitude, carries the initial and is called the line of the body. We then proceed to the dotted line of the so-called line of orientation of the sleeve in continuation of A1-G towards the finished length to the point called O in reference to the orientation of the sleeve. The line obtained A1-G-O, called the reference line is, according to the invention, the fundamental characteristic of the construction plane described here.

The sleeve length is calculated for a measurement of 240 mm. This dimension is brought from point G to point O1 on the line of orientation of the sleeve.

The sleeve-back orientation line and the sleeve-front orientation line are determined by drawing two parallels at 60 mm on either side of the reference line A1-O. The value of 120 mm obtained corresponds to an armhole deviation for a jacket with sleeves of size 40.

Passing through O1, a perpendicular to the line of orientation of the sleeve, marks the physical length of the sleeve in O4 and O5. Then, passing through G, a perpendicular to A1-O marks the length of the elbow in O2 and O3. We thus obtain the advancement of the square of the armhole, the position and the orientation of the sleeve by the points O2, O3, O4 and O5.

The back shoulder height point A4 is located on the body line A1-G at half the height of the back upright, i.e. at a distance of 115 mm from A and A1. The front middle height point corresponds to a height of the front upright of 195 mm, reduced by half, that is to say a point A5 located at 97.5 mm from point A.

The back hinge point C is located on the orientation line of the back sleeve at 57.5 mm from the intersection with the line of the upright. This distance corresponds to a quarter of the height of the back upright. The hinge point in front of C1 is located on the orientation line of the front sleeve 48 mm from the intersection with the line of the upright. This distance corresponds to a quarter of the height of the front upright. The two points are called C with reference to the hinge points.

According to the invention, as demonstrated later, the value called Vx is used for the proportional calculation of the bending. It is obtained by drawing a theoretical line T-C, perpendicular to the waist line. The value Vx is between point T and point T1 located at the intersection of the orientation line of the back sleeve and the waist line. As indicated previously, this reference value is one of the fundamental characteristics of the detailed process presented here.

The shoulder width depends on the model. In the example presented, a size 40 corresponds to a chest circumference of 87-88 cm. To obtain the exact shoulder width, a quarter of this measurement is applied, that is, 220 mm, on the theoretical line of neck towards the mid back to point M. The point is called M with reference to the middle of the back and middle of the front defined later. It is the middle point of the back neck and the measurement that separates it from the extended T-C line is the shoulder width.

The "seam" line in the middle of the back is a straight line from point M and perpendicular to all of the horizontal structural lines. It crosses the line of the upright in M1, the line of the waist in M2, the line of the hip in M3, the line of the pelvis in M4 and the finished length in M5.

Drawn from A4 to M6, the back half-upright line determines the half-height of the back upright. Parallel to the upright line, it will be used as a notch mark for the realization of the future assembly.

The theoretical dotted line of half back half is drawn in parallel with the line of the upright, from the hinge point C to the line of the middle back in C2. The width of the back half-case is 220 mm. For draw the theoretical dotted line of the front half-middle, we transfer from the hinge point of the front C1 towards the middle front to point C3, the width of the half-middle of the back reduced by its tenth and rounded up, or 200 mm. This line is parallel to the line of the upright and its measurement indicates the width of the half middle in front.

The center line in front is drawn by a theoretical perpendicular dotted at the waist line, from C3 to M7. From M7, a value of 10 mm outwards on the waist line marks point M8. We then draw a vertical from M8, passing through C3 to the theoretical back neckline. Its intersection with the line of the upright is marked with a point M9 and a point M10 at the intersection of the neckline. Then from M8, we draw a perpendicular to the finished length. Their intersection is marked with point M13. The middle line in front thus formed, passes from top to bottom through points M10, C3, M9, M8 and M13.

The height of the front upright is determined on the center front line, from M9 to M11, by the previously given measurement of 195 mm.

To obtain the height of the half upright, position the point M12 very precisely at half the measurement M9-M11, ie 97.5 mm. Then, join point A5 to point M12 to draw the half-upright line in front.

The measurement between M10 and M11 is the difference between the height of the front upright and the height of the back upright.

According to the invention and as demonstrated later, the value called Vy for the proportional calculation of the neck point and the shoulder slope is the exact measurement between M10 and M11. As indicated above, this reference value is one of the fundamental characteristics of the process detailed here.

The front shoulder line is obtained by drawing a perpendicular to M10-M12 from M11 to the body line A1-G at point A6. The back shoulder line is obtained by plotting the value Vy, that is to say the measurement M10-M11, from A6 to A7 and then plotting the line M-A7.

The opening of the neckline and the right back thread are obtained by transferring, from M to A7 at a point D, a measurement of 87 mm corresponding to one-tenth of the chest width considered and by the layout of a straight line passing through D and perpendicular to all the structural lines up to the length finished at a point D1. This vertical is the back straight line. The neck opening and the straight yarn in front are obtained by the postponement of the MD measurement, reduced by its tenth rounded to the upper digit, ie 79 mm, on the shoulder line in front, from M11 towards A6 to point D2. Passing through D2, we draw a vertical perpendicular to the structural lines and ending at point D3 over the finished length. This vertical is the straight line in front.

The theoretical back neck height is determined by transferring the value Vy from D to D4 on the back straight line D-D1. The D-D4 measurement is the theoretical back neck height. The theoretical neckline height in front is determined by the transfer to the straight line in front of D3-D2 and upper extension and from D2, from measurement MD to point D5 then, by the transfer of the value Vy from D5 to D6. The measurement D6-D2 is the theoretical height of the front neck. The theoretical back shoulder slope corresponds to the drawing of a line D4-A7. The theoretical shoulder slope in front corresponds to the drawing of a line D6-A6. The position of the back shoulder point E is obtained at the intersection of the theoretical shoulder slope D4-A7 with the extension of the theoretical line T-C towards the back neck line M-M10.

According to FIG. 2, the search for the back carrying point is carried out from a point located halfway between the line M-A7. From this point, draw a perpendicular to the theoretical back neck line M-A1. Its intersection at P with the theoretical back slope D4-A7 marks the location of the back carrier point. The postponement of measurement A7-P on the theoretical shoulder slope in front of A6-D6 marks in P1 the position of the carrier point in front.

We then transfer the shoulder width back P-E to the theoretical shoulder slope in front of A6-D6 from point P1 towards A6 to E1.

The calculation of the readjustment of the back neck height is carried out from the back neck point E by drawing a theoretical dotted line EM which marks the point D7 at its intersection with the straight back thread D1- D4. The measurement D-D7 determines a value to be added to the previous theoretical height by positioning the value Vy D-D4, in D7-D8. We join the point D8 obtained, to the bearing point P. The readjusted back neck height defines a new back shoulder slope by the points D8-P-E.

To readjust the front neck height, draw a theoretical line from the neck point in front of E1 to point M11 located on the line in the middle of the front. Point D9 marks its intersection with the straight line in front of D6-D3. The measurement between D2 and D9 defines the added value of the new neck height in front by its transfer from D6 to D10 on the straight yarn in front.

According to the invention, the search for the reversal value of the chest clip is calculated from the intersection D11 of the straight wire in front of D10-D3 and the half-middle line in front of A8-C3. From D11 taken as the center, we draw an arc of a few centimeters towards the line of the body at the start of D10. Then, the length of the back shoulder slope E-D8 is transferred to the compass on the shoulder slope in front of A6-D6. Using E1 for center, we draw an arc crossing the previous one in D12. The measurement D10-D12 corresponds to a balanced value for chest clamp reversal and the new shoulder slope in front follows the points D12-P1-E1.

The search for the final shoulder slope in front is carried out at the start of the intersection marked 06 between the orientation line of the sleeve in front and the shoulder line in front of A6-M11. Measure 06-A6 corresponds to the half-armhole difference. One third of this measurement from A6 marks point E2. The link E2-E1-P1-D12 defines the final shoulder slope in front.

The search for the final back shoulder slope is calculated by transferring the distance between P1 and E2 to the compass on the theoretical back shoulder slope from point E to point E4. The link D8-P-E-E4 defines the final back shoulder slope. This tracing procedure determines two shoulder slopes that can be assembled with extreme precision in the future assembly of the seams, thereby eliminating any risk of mud.

According to the invention, the search for the proportional bending of the back part is calculated by the multiplication of three values Vx T-T1 on the waist line, from point T1 to point T3 towards the middle back. The back bend value therefore corresponds to the T1-T3 measurement. It is divided in its center by the point named I with reference to intersection. Then, the finished length is joined in I1 by a theoretical dotted line passing through I and coming from the hinge point back C.

The pelvis width is searched from the waist line by transferring the distance GI on the pelvis line, from A2 towards the mid back to the point named B with reference to the pelvis. We then connect point T1 to point B with a theoretical line. Then we transfer to a working layer the broken seam line on the small back side C-T1-B as well as the theoretical axis of intersection CI-I1 and, by axial reversal towards the mid back, the broken seam line C-T4-B1 is symmetrically marked. At this level of the layout, we will notice the very significant difference in positioning of T4 compared to T3 and to a lesser extent of B1 compared to the basin line. This implies, for a good assembly of the seams, of good mark the offset from the theoretical size line to the T1-T4 axis as well as the basin line to the B-B1 axis. The line ends with a perpendicular to the finished line connecting F1 to B1. The back side seam construction line therefore passes through points C-T4-B1 and F1. To complete the layout of the seam construction line on the small back side, using the tracing by axial reversal, transfer the perpendicular B1-F1 to B and up to F2 in finished length. The seam construction line on the small back side therefore passes through points C-T1-B and F2. Using a pistol to draw the curves, the line C-T4-B1-F1 is refined without losing its precision and its balance then, transposed on C-T1-B-F2. This finalization carried out, the construction of the back bending is definitively established by a drawing of completely identical seams, thus offering to the technician the power to carry out an industrial assembly of high precision.

To carry out the drawing of the bending of the mid back, on the waist line from point M14 located 15 mm from M2, we draw a parallel to the line of the mid back to M15 on the finished length and we join the point M14 obtained at the height of the half-upright in M6. We finalize with a pistol the whole of this final line from the middle back M-M6-M14-M15.

At this level of construction, we start from F2 over the finished length, tracing a straight line towards the middle in front of a point M16 located 15 mm from M13 on the extension of the middle in front. This line F2-M16 must ensure, for the requirement of plumbness, the parallelism of the bottom of the garment with the ground.

According to the invention, the positioning and the use of the value Vx for the bending of the part of the short side of the front is calculated in the first place by the transfer of the value Vx from the intersection of the orientation line sleeve front 05-C1, and from the waist line marked with point T5, to point T6 towards the middle of the front. The distance T5-T6 therefore corresponds to the bending value for the front part. For a better visualization of the displacement of this value, a line is drawn from the back hinge point C1 to T6. It constructs a C1-T5-T6 viewing triangle. The course is continued by extending the middle line from the front C3-C1 to point A8 on the body line A1-G then, from point A9 which is located 20 mm from A8 on the middle line front towards the middle front, we draw a parallel to the line of the body to the line of the waist marked T7. The Vx value between T5-T6 is plotted on the size line from T7 towards the middle in front to point T8. We then connect by a straight line, points A9 and T8. The value and the bending position for the short side in front now corresponds to the precise measurement T7-T8. Lines A9-T7 and A9-T8 are respectively marked with points A10 and A11 at their intersection with the line of the upright M1-M9.

The search for the positioning of the seam between the size and the finished length is done by dividing into two equal parts by the point T9 of measurement T7-T8. Then draw, from this point T9 a theoretical perpendicular line dotted at the finished length in F3. We generally admit a fork of 260/270 mm for a size 40. The third of this traditional measurement, that is to say 90 mm, determines from T9 the point T10 on the theoretical line T9-F3, line which we mark with a point B2 at its intersection with the basin line. At 7 mm on either side of B2 on the pelvis line, we mark the points B3 towards mid front and B4 towards mid back. Two perpendiculars to the finished length connect B3 and B4 to F4 and F5 respectively on the line F2-M16. The outline of the seam line on the short front side can then be drawn by points A9-T7-T10-B3 and F4. The front side seam line is drawn by points A9-T8-T10-B4 and F5.

Using the plotting gun, the two geometric lines obtained are refined by flexible, elegant curves relating to the aforementioned passage points. To check the consistency of the desired result, after tracing on a tracing the seam line on the front side T8-T10-B4-F5 located under the waist line, carry it over to the line on the short side in front of T7 -T10-B3-F4.

The search for the bending value under the chest begins with the search for the chest point, generally located for a size 40, at 260/270 mm from the neck height point. We therefore determine from point D10, positioned on the upper end of the straight yarn in front, a measurement of 265 mm. The deviation of the chest point from the middle of the front corresponds to a standard of 95 mm. The perpendicular positioning of these two measurements determines the PP chest point. From point PP, we draw a theoretical parallel dotted straight ahead in order to point H on the hip line. When it meets the waist line, it is marked with point T10 '. On both sides of T10 'a bending value of 10 mm positions the points T11 towards the front center and T12 towards the front side. At this level of the layout, it is necessary to locate the positioning of the pocket thus determining the stopping of the bending pliers. The top of the pocket is generally placed 80 mm from the waist line, ie at a point T13 on the PP-H axis. Then, using the compass, we measure the vertical distance between T13 and the finished plumb line F-M16. This distance is carried over from the point marked A12, resulting from the meeting of the line of the body and the plumb finish F-M16, at point A 13 on the line of the body. A straight line of 165 mm from A13, parallel to the finished plumb line F2-M16 and passing through T13 leads to point T16. This line determines the width of the pocket on which, at 7 mm on either side of T13, the points T14 and T 15 are marked with a value slightly less than the force T11-T12. The pliers' bending curves are drawn and refined with a gun by points PP-T11-T14 and PP-T12 and T15. The passage from pocket line A13-T16 with the front side seam line A9-F5 is marked with point T17.

At this level of construction, we can observe that the distance PP-T13 corresponds to a well-defined clamp length but that an imbalance occurs since this clamp is stopped by its encounter with the pocket line A13-T16. It is therefore advisable to recover the value T14-T15 at the height of the section T17-F5 of the front side seam. To do this, set the value T14-T15 on the pocket line A13-T16, from T17 to point T18. Then, with the help of a tracing, we draw the trace T17-F5 on T18 towards the finished plumb line F2-M16 to point F4. The usefulness of this operation will allow after closing the pliers T15-T12-PP-T11-T14, to combine in an identical seam line the sections T17-F5 and T18-F4 and thus to form a seam on the final front side from points A11-T8-T17-T18-B3 and F4.

The adjustment of the armhole pattern begins with the drawing of two construction lines called transfer lines, coming from the point of gravity G towards the theoretical neck line M-M10 and passing through the back hinge points C and front C1. Then, using the tracing gun, draw the armhole from C1 to A, taking care not to exceed the limit set by line G-C1 in order to obtain good accuracy at the sleeve heel. . The drawing of the bottom of armhole is extended by a coherent curve to the previous one, from A towards the hinge point on back C. The upper line towards the shoulder slopes must be continued using a layer or any other transparent support marked R ° -V °. This operation allows you to accurately draw the armhole on the construction plane. One proceeds firstly, on the R ° of the layer, to the statements of points P and E3, of the section of back shoulder slope included between these two points, of the line of orientation of the back sleeve from the hinge point C. Point C4, marking the half-middle, and the back hinge point C are notched on the sleeve orientation line. Then we rotate the layer from left to right, from the back shoulder slope previously identified towards the front shoulder slope, to position and mark the point E3 on E2 and the carrier point P on P1. Then draw the sleeveless orientation line in front of the notched half-frame in front at C5 and at the hinge point in front at C1. On this layer, therefore appear two shoulder slopes joined in one, and two directions of sleeve intersecting with exactitude. Using these three references, we can then trace the armhole in a single line, from the back part to the front part. Position the gun from C to C1 through C4 and C5. Draw preferably in red for a good location, a continuous and flexible armhole line C-C1. Mark its intersection with the shoulder slope of a common point E4 on the back side and E5 on the front side. Turn the layer face V ° and resume exactly the drawing of the armhole. Return the layer to its R ° again, reposition the back part on points C-C4-E3-E and trace the half-armhole curve C-E4. Mark point E4 on the construction plane. Then, perform a similar operation for the front side by re-positioning the points E2-E1-C5-C1, trace and mark point E5 on the shoulder slope in front.

We thus obtain on the construction plan the drawing of a visually separate armhole but very precisely assembled when sewing the shoulder slopes. Folded on either side of the shoulder slope and, seen from above, the armhole drawing on tracing appears in exact linear continuity.

According to FIG. 3, to carry out a precise adjustment of the assembly of the seam of the short side in front of T7-A10 with the seam of the front side of T8-C6, it is necessary to carry out the operational layout which follows, due to the clear difference in their respective length, in order to avoid any excess or fogging at the armhole-sleeve junction. Line C-A-A10-C1 forms, in perfect continuity, the bottom of the armhole. Its intersection with the front side seam T8-A9 is marked with point C6.

With a tracing or transparent support, we raise the front side part C1-A10-A-T7. Then using a pin pointed at C1 chosen as the pivot axis, the support is tilted towards the front side to place point T7, previously noted, on point T8. We thus obtain a new positioning of the point C6 in C7. When the two seams A10-T17 and C7-T8 are closed and assembled, the design of the armhole C1-C7-A10-A will be in continuity. At this level of construction, we note that on the T8-C7 seam, the distance C6-C7 turns out to be excessive and must therefore be eliminated from future cutting. This adjustment operation allows remove the curls on the small side of the garment that are too often observable.

Adjustment of the armhole front after reversing the chest clip is carried out using a tracing or other transparent support. The armhole drawing C1-C5-E5 is noted, then the carrying point P1 and the neck height up to point D12. The layer is turned over, marked on its V ° and notched according to the points indicated. Returned to the initial position, point C1 used as a pivot, the sheet is inverted towards the middle in front. At the meeting of D12 with the straight line in front, we mark by decal the location of the drawing of the new armhole, the displacement of the points C5 in C8 and E5 in E6. The layout is then specified and refined with a gun on the construction plan. The fact of moving this armhole design towards the front allows exact positioning, thus avoiding subsequent assembly, a very clear lack of sleeve head.

According to the invention and as demonstrated later, the value called Vz is used for the relational calculation of armhole-sleeve interlocking. The search for the value Vz is carried out for the front part using the so-called transfer line and the sleeve orientation line in front.

Using a transparent layer or support marked R ° -V °, the transfer line is noted in front of the point of gravity G towards the hinge point in front of C1 as well as the start of the armhole line in front of E6-C8 -C1. Then from the hinge point in front of C1, part of the sleeve orientation line is drawn in front of C1-03 towards the length of the elbow. The layer, inverted opposite V °, the point G traced and positioned on the initial point G, reveal an overlap of the orientation line C1-03 on the armhole curve C1-A. Provided with a pin fixed on the points G, one carries out a tilting of the tracing support towards the center in front until the line of orientation of raised sleeve is tangent of the armhole in front of C1-A. Then, still using the layer opposite V °, we note in continuity with a tracing gun, the armhole drawing C1-A. We can then clearly observe the line of the whole design of the sleeve-armhole - sleeve heel whose curve transfer is made on the construction plane by the points E6 become E7, C8 become C9 and C1 become C10. This line is in fact extracted, transferred and reconstructed directly from the armhole itself. According to the invention, it is an extremely precise relational calculation of interlocking between the armhole defined by the points E5-C5-C1-A10 and A, the sleeve head E7-C9-C10 and the sleeve heel C10- A10-A. Once this operation is completed, the transfer support is turned over to face R °. The superimposed G points, the transfer line previously traced C1-03 in the original position, the initial reading of the sleeve heel C1-A is transferred. Point R, taken from A, marks the end. Passing through it, we then easily draw a perpendicular to the orientation line of the sleeve A-01 to the orientation line of the back sleeve C-02, which it meets in R2. This straight line extends, after point R, a few centimeters towards the middle in front. To form the sleeve rectangle at the start of the sleeve head E7 towards the finished length, a parallel is drawn to the sleeve orientation line or reference line of the body A-01. Its intersection with the axis of the sleeve heel is marked with point R1, its intersection with the extension of the elbow length axis 02-03 is marked with R3, and its intersection with the extension of the arm length axis 04-05 is marked with point R4.

The search for the value Vz is carried out for the back part using the so-called carry line and the back sleeve orientation line. Before proceeding by analogy with the process used in front, we trace on tracing, the tracing of the central section of the line of the amount M1-M9 and the sleeve orientation line in front of C5 to 03. After turning the layer opposite V ° and superimposition of the upright line on its stump, the slewing orientation line in front thus reversed, is positioned at the passage of the hinge point C and transferred to the construction plane.

The relational calculation process for the back part is identical to that used for the front part. To trace it, note the transfer line GC on the tracing line and the line passing through C, a line previously obtained by transferring the back orientation line from the upside down sleeve orientation. The armhole pattern on the back is also noted from the hinge point C to the half-upright point C4 to the shoulder point E4. This curve is redrawn at the V ° of the support for its next decal. Then using a pin, the layer is pivoted from the point G chosen as the axis, towards the middle back until the orientation line is tangent to the bottom of armhole CA. The location of the new point C12 from C is marked on the construction plane as well as the section of armhole curve C12-A. We reverse the layer or transfer support in position R ° and, positioning the point G on its stump, we trace the curve of the bottom of armhole CA. The point A must then register very precisely on the extension of R-R2 in R5. Then, the transfer support in position V °, the axis G-C12 on its original stock, we transfer the top of the back sleeve curve, we mark the transfer of the sleeve head E4 to E8 and the half point - amount C4 to C11. We can then see a perfect continuity of the back armhole curve of E8 at the height point of the half-upright C11 and of the transfer of the back hinge point C12 to the sleeve heel A. This line is in fact extracted, transferred and reconstituted directly from the armhole itself. It is, according to the invention, the result of an extremely precise relational calculation of fit between the armhole defined by the points E4-C4-CA, the sleeve head E8-E9-C11-C12 and the sleeve heel C12-A.

The R-R2-R5 sleeve heel line is then extended by approximately 150 mm towards the mid back. Then we draw, at the start of the sleeve head point in front of E7, a wide perpendicular to the sleeve orientation line A1-01. This straight line intersects the back armhole curve E8-A at E9. Using a compass, the value E9-E8 is plotted on this right in E9-E10. From this last point, we also transfer the total length of the sleeve E7-R4 to R8 towards the finished length. R3-02 is then extended to R7 and R1-R5 to R6. This line completes the drawing of the sleeve rectangle. The relational value Vz for the front part is between points C1 and C10. The relational value Vz for the back part is between points C and C12. At this level of development of the pattern, we can clearly observe the shape and the three-dimensional reality of the layout. In fact, when the piece of sleeve thus cut wraps around itself, the sleeve-armhole fitting will be obtained with extreme accuracy. Historically, the technique of clothing construction has encountered the delicate problem of precise interlocking without ever arriving at a truly effective solution. The search for the value Vz using the specific relational calculation presented, perfectly solves this problem.

As indicated above, this calculation is one of the fundamental characteristics of the method according to the invention detailed here.

For the drawing of the elbow clamp, draw from point C11 to the bottom of the sleeve in R9, a parallel to the orientation line A1-01. It meets the length of the elbow in R10. Points R11 and R12 are located 45 mm on either side of R10 along the length of R4-R8. Then we connect R10-R11 and R10-R12. This layout avoids too large a size and increases the aesthetics and the comfort of the sleeve.

To draw the groove seam of the underside of the sleeve, draw a parallel to the sleeve orientation line A-01 at 35 mm towards the middle front. The point C13 marks its meeting with the bottom of armhole. At its intersection with the length of the elbow R7-R3 and the sleeve length R8-R4, it is pointed R13-R14. Points R16 and R17 are located 7 mm on either side of R13 on the R7-R3 axis. The route ends with the connection of points C13-R16-R17 and R14-R16-R17.

The displacement and the assembly of the two upper part of the sleeve is carried out by the simple transposition of the drawing of the rear part formed by the points E10-R6-R7-R8-R11-R10-C11-E9 forward from the axis E10-R8 displaced on the seam of the middle of the sleeve E7-R4. The exact route in relation to the armhole is therefore established for the top of the sleeve by C13-R16-R14-R12-R10-C11-C12-A and C13. Then, for the underside of the sleeve by C13-R17-R14-R3-R1-E7-C9-C10 and C13. The unnumbered part is moved and transposed from left to right, straight wire on right wire, the sleeve top having no seam in the middle of the sleeve. Line E7-R4 will form the straight edge of the sleeve and the straight edge for the underside will correspond to A-01, reference line, initial base of the entire layout.

In conclusion, this sleeve can be to the millimeter, mounted on the armhole. There will be no mud in the heel or in the head and the model maker will not have to correct or relax during assembly. The sleeve presented here is of Italian sytle, mounted round with flat head and modern appearance. If the technician wishes to obtain a real tailor sleeve, the value required from E7 and E10 will be added, for a set filler from the start, i.e. 8 mm for light fabrics and 12 to 15 mm for thick fabrics on each side of the head. of sleeve. The width of the bottom of the sleeve R8-R4 will remain identical to the initial layout.

In general, the present invention is designed for a traditional and manual application and / or an application using the computer tool of the CAD / CAM type (computer-aided design-manufacture). The precise adoption of the recommended route, the specific measures proposed, the use of proportional and relational calculations linked to the reference values called Vx, Vy, Vz make it possible to quickly and safely achieve very consistent universal patterns for men, women and children in conditions of layout, cutting and mounting of great precision.

The method according to the invention if it is suitable for artisanal manufacture, is particularly intended for the semi-industrial and industrial confection of clothing.

Claims (8)

1. Method for designing three-dimensional patterns for pieces of garments with sleeves, especially jackets, blazers, coats, overcoats, dresses, shirts and blouses for men, women and children without any limitation in length and from any material with warp and weft, made of natural or synthetic fibers or of leather, according to which method a plurality of structural lines are drawn first of all, especially the waist line (M2-M8), the length lines, the neck fines, the hip line and the pelvis line,
   said method being characterized in that, in order to obtain a structural outline:

   - a theoretical axis of the profile of the bust is drawn by means of a line made of two segments (A1-G, G-A3), which is broken at a specific point (G) known as the point of gravity, marking the angle of projection of the pelvis forwards and, by reaction, inclined backwards by 6 to 8° in its upper segment (A1-G), this line (A1-G-A3) constituting the fundamental reference line for constructing the garment, and being termed body line;

   - the specific position of the sleeve (02-03-04-05) is determined symmetric to the upper segment (A1-G) of the reference line;

   - a first reference value (Vx) is determined by drawing a theoretical straight line (CT) perpendicular to the waist line (M2-M8), this value lying between the point of intersection (T) of this theoretical line (CT) and the waist line (M2-M8), and the point of intersection (T1) of the back sleeve orientation line (C-04) and the Waist line (M2-M8);

   - a specific and proportional geometric calculation is carried out on the fitting of the waist, using said first reference value (Vx);

   - a second reference value (Vy) is determined on the center-front line (M10-M9) using the difference lying between the points where it passes through the theoretical height of the neck back (M10) and the shoulder front line (M11), this difference determining, in ordinates, the exact second reference value (Vy),

   - a specific and proportional geometric calculation is carried out between the neck, top of neck and shoulder slope points with the aid of said second reference value (Vy);

   - a specific three-dimensional and relational geometric calculation is carried out on the armhole/sleeve fitting with the aid of curve transfer lines (G-C, G-C1) consisting of the tangents to the armhole originating from said point of gravity (G) at the end of the outline defining a third specific reference value (Vz);

   - two tension points (P, P1) denoted respectively back hanging point and front hanging point are determined, and these make it possible to fine-tune the fitting of the pattern in order to obtain integral fitting of the garment on the shoulder, through a specific calculation on the theoretical back shoulder slope (D4-A7) at the intersection (P) of a straight line originating from the center of the back shoulder line (M-A7) and perpendicular to the theoretical neck line (M-M10), and the distance between said back hanging point (P) and the point of intersection (A7) of the back shoulder line and of said upper segment (A1-G) of the body line is transferred onto the theoretical front shoulder slope (A6-D6) starting from the point of intersection (A6) of the shoulder line and of said upper segment; and

   - the bust dart (D10-D11) value is specifically taken in making it possible to eliminate or use up any excess material depending on the desired volume;

   and in that all the components of the garment fall within the construction plan.
2. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that the body line (A1-G-A3) is perpendicular to the waist line (M2-M8) in its lower segment (G-A3) and inclined by 6 to 8° towards the rear of the torso relative to the vertical in its upper segment (A1-G), and in that said point of gravity (G) is situated on the waist line (M2-M8) marking the length to the elbow (02-03).
3. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that the sleeve orientation lines (C-04, C1-05) may lie symmetrically on either side of the upper segment (A1-G) and of its lower extension (G-01) or may vary, depending on the desired look, by face angles originating from a point (C1) on the front sleeve orientation line situated a quarter of the way up the length of the front (M11-M9), denoted front hinge point (C1), to the following extents: 22.5° - 30° - 45° - 67.5° - 90°.
4. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that a proportional geometric calculation of the fitting of the back part is carried out in abscissa on the waist line (M2-M8) by transferring three times said first reference value (Vx) starting from said point of intersection (T1) of the theoretical line (CT) and of the waist line (M2-M8) so as to determine a point (T3), and by transferring once said first reference value (Vx) for the fitting of the front part lying between two points (T7, T8), it being possible for the transfer of said first reference value (Vx) to be less than or greater than the numbers written above, depending on the desired fit of the garment.
5. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that:

   - a proportional geometric calculation is carried out in order to determine, on said upper segment (A1-G) of the body line, the position of a back shoulder line (M-A7) by transferring the second reference value (Vy) starting from a point (A6) of the front shoulder line (M11-A6);

   - a proportional geometric calculation is performed in order to determine, on the back straight grain line (D-D1), the theoretical length of the back neck (D-D4) by transferring said second reference value (Vy) vertically upwards starting from the point of intersection (D) of the back shoulder line and of the back straight grain line;

   - a given distance (MD) is obtained lying, in the back part, on the back shoulder line between the center back line (M-M5) and the back straight grain line (D-D1); and

   - the second reference value (Vy) is transferred vertically downwards onto the upper section of the front straight grain line starting from a given point (D5) on the front straight grain line in order to determine the theoretical front neck length (D6-D2), the latter given point (D5) of the front straight grain line being obtained by transferring said given distance (MD) vertically upwards onto the front straight grain line starting from the point (D2) of intersection of the front shoulder line (A6-M11) and of the front straight grain line.
6. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that a relational geometric calculation is carried out on the armhole/sleeve fitting on the back part and front part based on the square of the armhole with the aid of two tangents (G-C, G-C1) to the armhole originating from said point of gravity (G), and denoted curve-transfer lines and their extensions, and with the aid of the back and front sleeve orientation lines (C-04, C-05), in that the abovementioned lines are used to extract, transpose, and reconstruct the armhole curve (E5-C5-C1-A10-A-C-C4-E4) towards the curve of the sleeve (E7-C9-C10-A10-A-C12-C11-E9-E8) using a three-dimensional approach, and in that this calculation defines two separate relational values (Vz) in the back and the front part, lying between the back hinge point (C) and the transfer thereof onto the sleeve underarm part (C12) and between the front hinge point (C1) and the transfer thereof onto the sleeve underarm part (C10).
7. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that a balanced value by which the bust dart (D10-D12) is to be taken in is obtained starting from the point of intersection (D12) of two arcs of a circle centered respectively on the point of intersection (D11) of the front straight grain line (D10-D3) and of the horizontal line passing through said front hinge point (C1), and on the front shoulder point (E1) on the front shoulder slope (A6-D6).
8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a single outline incorporates all the components of the garment, a back, a front and a sleeve, within the construction plan.

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