KR100888822B1 - Design method of korean traditional jacket for woman - Google Patents

Abstract

A design method of Korean traditional top coat for modern woman is provided, which prevents the back from being lifted. A design method of Korean traditional top coat for modern woman is constituted as follows. The design size of the back(L1) is (the size of the breast / 4) + 2cm based on the breast passing the armpit. The design size of the front is (the size of the bust / 4) + 2cm based on the bust passing papilla. The design size of the shoulder(L3) is ((neck girth / 2) -1.5) / 2cm based on the size of the neck girth. The design size of armhole(L4) is (the body armhole size/2) + 6cm. The design size(L5) of the armpit is the design size of armhole + 5cm. The design size of the back is design size of the armpit + 2cm. The design size of the front is design size of the back + 4cm.

Description

DESIGN METHOD OF KOREAN TRADITIONAL JACKET FOR WOMAN}

The present invention relates to a method for designing a hanbok jeori for women, and to a design method of the hanbok jeori for fitting the body of modern women with large breasts when determining the size to cut the hanbok cloth.

Hanbok is the traditional costume unique to our nation that has been passed down along with the history of our nation. It refers to the garment worn during the Joseon Dynasty.

These hanboks are often worn when there are special events such as holidays, ceremonies, rituals, and weddings. In recent years, so-called improved hanbok, which improves discomfort in everyday life, has become popular and can be worn as casual clothes.

Women's hanboks include jeogori, skirts, bazaars, margots, and robes. Men's hanbok includes pants, jeogori, vests, margots, and robes.

These hanboks have unique characteristics that are different from Western clothes, and their beauty and traditional beauty are well harmonized with straight lines and curves.

In particular, for women's hanboks, the low collar close to the body and the wide skirt are in a stable and harmonious combination.

Also, because Hanbok covers the shortcomings of the body, it can make small people look bigger and make skinny people look generous.

For example, the shorter ones are a little longer than the standard ones, and the width of the skirt is slightly smaller than the standard. The shorter ones are slightly smaller than the standard. .

In addition, fat people should be a little wider than the standard skirt, slightly longer than the standard, slightly narrow sleeves, thin people with a very narrow skirt and a good margin to wear.

In addition, people with short necks should have plenty of back ancient dimensions and wear feather collars narrowly, and people with long necks should wear feathers large and short feather lengths.

As such, the hanbok has many parts that can be adjusted to suit the characteristics of the body of the wearer, thereby preventing the disadvantages of the body as much as possible and expressing the advantages.

The present invention relates to a low ring worn by a woman among these hanbok, Figure 1 shows a typical hanbok low ring for women. In the hanbok jeori, the length of the jeori, the length of the sleeve, the width of the collar, the length and width of the feather, the length and width of the pus, and the width of the sympathy have changed little by time.

Hanbok has a unique name for each part, which will be described with reference to the structure of the conventional hanbok jeori with reference to FIG. In the present specification, such a unique name is used.

Hanbok jeori for women, as shown in Figure 1, comprises a left and right front road 110 to cover the chest portion, the left and right rear road covering the back portion and the left and right sleeves 150 connected to these front and back.

The portion where the front length 110 and the sleeve 150 are connected, that is, the width from the shoulder line to the armpit of the low ring is called the vibration 140 (see L4 in FIG. 2). On the other hand, the vibration dimension of the body refers to the circumference from the shoulder of the human body to the armpit.

The portion of the front roadway 110 connected to the sleeve 150 is made to be slightly longer than the vibration 140, and the vibration and the length including this portion are called sideways (see L5 in FIG. 2).

The end of the sleeve 150 is referred to as the sleeve 200, in some cases the sleeve may be omitted. The inlet out of the sleeve 200 is called water polo.

The portion formed along the neck portion of the jeogori is called the feather (120), the white portion that is padded on the feather is called sympathy (130). A straight portion surrounding the neck of the feather 120 is particularly ancient (see FIG. 4).

In other words, ancient means a portion of a feather formed in a straight line, when cutting, it is cut to a length (L3 in Fig. 2) corresponding to one half of the ancient on one back plate. In this specification, the dimension corresponding to half of this actual ancient is referred to as "ancient design dimension". When cutting the hanbok, the back plate is made in half, so the ancient design dimensions are actually the dimensions used to pattern the hanbok cloth.

In addition, the part which forms the underside of the sleeve 150 is called bed 160, and the part which forms the underline of the front path 110 is called bleed 170. FIG. In particular, the lower part of the front road is called the front bleed. The bed and bleed are formed in a natural curve.

The part overlapping each other in front of the chest when wearing the jeogori is called 190 (190). As shown in FIG. 3, the part that enters inside (the right part when wearing clothes) is called 섶 (191), and the part that comes out (Left when dressed) (192). The pointed portion below the outer shell is called Gecko 193.

The strap provided on the tuft 140 is a pus 180, which is for tying a knot after wearing a low collar. The short pus in the upper pus 180 is formed in the inner hem of the low ring (right part when wearing clothes), and the long pus is formed in the outer hem of the low ring (left part when wearing clothes).

There is a part called cremation in the jeogori, which refers to the distance from the center of the neck of the jeogori to the end of the sleeve (L8 in Fig. 2).

The distance from the neck to the bottom of the back plate (also called the back plate) of the low ring is called the rear length (see L6 in FIG. 2), and the distance from the neck to the bottom of the low ring front is called the front length (in FIG. 3). L7).

Hanbok is usually made of two or three layers of Hanbok cloth, which are made by cutting the back plate (see Fig. 2) and the front plate (see Fig. 3) separately and sewing them.

That is, the left part shown in FIG. 2 and the right part (not shown) formed symmetrically with this are the back plate of the low ring, and FIG. 3 (a) is the right part of the low ring front plate, and FIG. 3 (b) is the low ring front plate. Becomes the left part of.

The sleeve portion in the front plate shown in FIG. 3 is designed with the same dimensions as the sleeve portion of the back plate. For convenience of drawing, the sleeve of the front plate is omitted.

In order to tailor the hanbok, it is necessary to first measure the size of the wearer's body, which is commonly called chachon in the hanbok industry. Since the term is a Japanese term, it will be described herein as measuring the body.

After the body is measured, a pattern will be set on the Hanbok fabric. In other words, designing the dimensions for making hanbok on the fabric based on the body size. In order to distinguish this dimension from the actual dimension of the body, it is referred to herein as a "design dimension".

After all, whether or not the hanbok fits well is determined by how the design dimension is determined based on the actual body size.

By the way, in the conventional hanbok design, the design of the low ring was determined based on the size of the central part of the female breast, that is, the largest chest circumference (called "yudongdong") passing through the nipple. Then, the back length (distance from the back neck to the waistline) and the makeup (the distance from the center of the neck to the end of the sleeve of the lower ring) were considered, and based on these dimensions, the design dimensions of the other parts were determined.

For example, the front part (width of the horizontal section in the front road, L2 in Fig. 3) is oil phase copper / 4 + 2cm, vibration (L4 in Figure 3) is oil phase copper / 4-0.5cm, ancient (L3 in Figure 3 ), And the design dimensions were determined to be oil phase copper / 10-0.5 cm. In addition, in the prior art, the dimensions of the front and rear parts were designed to be the same.

The old women did not feel uncomfortable even when wearing the low ring produced by the above-described conventional design method.

In other words, women of the past had relatively small breasts and did not have a large yukdongdong (the largest circumference of the nipple), which was a good fit even with different design dimensions.

However, the modern young women have changed their body shape more than the past women, especially the breast area is greatly developed.

Therefore, when the Hanbok jersey of a woman with a large breast is made by a conventional design method, a phenomenon in which the back plate of the jersey does not stick to the back and floats occurs.

Originally, the jacket is a garment that can be dressed to make it look shorter, so it is more likely that the back panel will be lifted up without sticking to the body. Moreover, if a busty woman wears a low ring and wears pus, the chances of the back plate rising will increase.

In addition, according to the conventional low ring design method, vibration and antiquity do not fit well in the case of a woman with a big breast. In addition, since the position of the fin is determined by the oil phase copper, the formation position of the fin is always constant. This results in the front of the chest becoming untidy when a woman with a big breast wears it.

Therefore, according to the conventional low-ring design method based on Yu Sang-dong, in the case of a modern woman whose breast portion is particularly developed as compared to other bodies, there is a problem that the low ring does not fit the body well. In particular, when wearing a low ring, there is a problem that the back plate is lifted.

The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, by differently determining the front design dimensions and the method of determining the rear design dimensions, to provide a hanbok jeori that the back plate does not lift when modern women with big breasts wear the jeori. Its purpose is to.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a hanbok jeogori that fits the body of modern women by calculating vibration and ancient design dimensions differently from the prior art.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a hanbok jeogori that the breast part is neat when the position of the breast is formed differently according to the size and shape of the breast, and women with big breasts wear them.

It is still another object of the present invention to formulate the design dimension calculation of the hanbok jeori to make it easy to manufacture hanbok jeori.

The design method of the women's hanbok jewellery of the present invention for achieving the above object, the design dimension (L1) of the back product is (the same degree / 4) + 2cm on the basis of the upper chest circumference homology passing through the armpits, The design dimension (L2) is (oil phase / 4) + 2cm with respect to the center circumference of the breast through the teat, and the ancient design dimension (L3) is based on the length of the neck. Circumference / 2) -1.5] / 2cm, the design dimension L4 of the vibration is (body vibration dimension / 2) + 3cm based on the vibration dimension of the body, and the design dimension L5 of the side sinus is the vibration The design dimension (L4) + 5cm of the vibration based on the design dimension of the design, and the design dimension (L6) of the rear length is the design dimension (L5) + 2cm of the The design dimension (L7) of the captain is the design dimension (L6) + 4cm of the rear captain on the basis of the design dimension of the rear captain to produce a hanbok low ring. It is characterized by.

In addition, if the difference between the upper chest circumference through the armpits and the upper chest circumference through the nipples differs by 4 cm or more, the ancient design dimension (L3) (neck circumference / 4)-0.5 It is characterized by producing a hanbok low ring by the cm.

According to the design method of the hanbok low ring according to the present invention, by varying the method of calculating the design dimensions of the front and rear products, there is an effect that can provide a hanbok low ring that fits well to the body of modern women with big breasts.

In addition, by calculating the design dimensions of the vibration, antiquity, and 다르게 different from the conventional, there is an effect that can provide a comfortable hanbok low ring.

In particular, even if modern women with large breasts are worn, the back plate does not float and the chest part has a neat effect.

Therefore, there is an effect that can spread the spread of hanbok to young women who avoid wearing hanbok.

In addition, since the design dimensions of the hanbok can be easily calculated, there is an effect that can easily learn the manufacturing process of the hanbok.

Hereinafter, exemplary embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[First Embodiment]

2 to 4 are views for explaining the first embodiment of the present invention, Figure 2 is a view showing a method for designing the left back plate (back plate) according to the first embodiment of the present invention, Figure 3 is a present invention As a method of designing a front plate according to the first embodiment of (a) is a view showing a right front plate without a sleeve, (b) is a left front plate without a sleeve, Figure 4 is a first embodiment of the present invention According to the present invention.

In order to make a hanbok jeogori, the size of the body is measured and based on this, the size of the hanbok cloth is determined. In other words, the actual body size and the size when cutting the hanbok will be different, the latter dimension is referred to herein as "design dimensions".

Conventionally, in determining the design of the low ring, the size was determined based on the circumference of the center of the female passing through the nipple (called "yudongdong"). In the past, women's breasts were not very large, so even if the jeogori was cut based on the Yoo Sang Dong, there were no problems.

However, the modern woman's body shape is much different from the previous female body shape, especially the breast part is greatly developed. Nevertheless, the conventional method of manufacturing hanbok is based on the yukdongdong, which is the dimension of the center of the chest, the front of the product even if the fit of the body will be a phenomenon that the back of the floating.

In addition, the mask covering the chest is also designed based on Yu Sang-dong, there is a problem that does not fit well with the changed body shape of modern women.

The present invention is to solve this problem, one of its features, the design dimension (L1) of the front part is designed based on the oil phase copper as in the prior art, the design dimension (L2) of the rear part is the upper chest passing through the armpits The design is based on the circumference (less than "homologous").

That is, the design dimension (L1) of the rear part is (homology / 4) + 2 cm based on the homology (refer to FIG. 2), and the design dimension (L2) of the front part is based on the oil phase homology (the oil content copper / 4) The design dimension is determined by + 2 cm (see FIG. 3).

When the design dimensions of the rear and front parts are determined in this way, even if a woman with a big breast wears a low ring, the back product does not float.

Figure 2 shows the left side of the back plate when wearing a low ring, the right side of the back plate is cut symmetrically with the left part.

The ancient design dimension L3 shown in FIG. 2 measures the length of the neck circumference of a human body, and calculates it by the formula of [(neck circumference / 2) -1.5] / 2].

The design dimension L4 of the vibration is measured as the body vibration dimension (circumference from the shoulder to the flank) and then (body vibration dimension / 2) + 3 cm based on this.

In addition, the design dimension L5 of a side cavity is made into the design dimension of the said vibration + 5 cm.

In addition, the design dimension L6 of a back length is designed with the design dimension + 2cm of the said side sinus.

In addition, the design dimension L7 of a front length shall be the design dimension + 4 cm of the said back length.

In FIG. 2, the design dimension L8 of the makeup may be the same as that of the body makeup (length from the center of the back neck to the wrist).

On the other hand, the lower part of the sleeve is called sea bass (see 160 in Figure 1), the following describes how to design this part.

First, the upper point is K and the lower point is K 'by dividing the length (DE in FIG. 2) by subtracting the design dimension L1 of the rear part from the makeup L8. Then, by dividing (EF, which is the same as the design dimension L4 of the vibration) of the sleeve inlet part into five, and determining the 3/5 part point F, the K 'and F are diagonally connected.

Subsequently, the diagonal line K'F is divided into three portions, and at each equal point L and M, the line is extended downward at right angles to the upper diagonal line K'F, and the line extending from L is divided into two equal portions and the line extending from M. Divides into three.

And, naturally connecting the point K ', 1/3 point of the straight line extending down from L, and 1/3 point of the straight line extending down from M in a curve, the bed is completed.

In addition, the bleed in FIG. 2 (see 170 in FIG. 1) divides the design dimension (L1) of the rear part into three (see BC) and draws a 2/3 outward curve from the left side and a 1/3 inward direction. When you draw a curve, the bleeding is complete.

In addition, the lower portion of the side sinus, as shown in Figure 2, it is preferable to cut slightly inclined toward the center.

Figure 3 shows the front plate of the hanbok jeogori, (a) shows the right front plate without the sleeve, (b) shows the left front plate without the sleeve. The outer shell 192 of the left front plate overlaps the lining 191 of the right front plate.

The design dimension L2 of the anterior article in FIG. 3 is designed as (oil phase sinus / 4) + 2 cm based on the largest breast circumference oil phase sinus passing through the teat.

The design dimension L4 of the vibration and the design dimension L5 of the side cavity are cut similarly to the case of the back plate shown in FIG. 2. That is, the DG of the left front plate shown in FIG. 3B overlaps with the DG of the back plate shown in FIG. 2. In FIG. 3 the sleeve is cut in the same way as the sleeve shown in FIG.

The upper AI in FIG. 3B is designed to have the same dimensions as the AI, the ancient design dimension L3 in FIG. 2. The length of the AI of FIG. 3 may vary depending on the body shape.

In addition, the size and width of the lining 191 and the outer shell 192 in Figure 3 is determined according to the wearer's body type, in particular the size of the chest.

The bleed at the front plate shown in FIG. 3 is designed in the same manner as the bleed of the back plate in a conventional manner.

4 shows the feather, in which the portion indicated by L3 is the length corresponding to the ancient design dimension, and this L3 portion is superimposed on the AI portion of FIG.

Since FIG. 2 shows only one side of the back plate, the ancient design dimension L3 has a length that is half of the ancient length shown in FIG. 4.

For women with 88 cm of upper homology (upper chest through armpit), 90 cm of sinus sinus, 35 cm of neck, 38 cm of body vibration (circumference from shoulder to armpit), design dimensions according to the present invention If you calculate

Design dimensions of back part (L1): 88/4 + 2cm = 24cm

Design dimension of front part (L2): 90/4 + 2cm = 24.5cm

Ancient Design Dimensions (L3): [(35/2) -1.5] / 2cm = 8cm

Design dimension of vibration (L4): 38/2 + 3 cm = 22 cm

Design dimension of side sinus (L5): 22 + 5 = 27 cm

Design dimensions of the rear length (L6): 27 + 2 = 29 cm

The design dimension (L7) of the front length is 29 + 4 = 33 cm.

By determining the design dimensions as described above, it is possible to create a hanbok that fits the body of modern women whose body shape has changed. In particular, the back plate is not lifted when the low ring is worn.

In addition, since the cutting process of the hanbok is simplified, the manufacture of hanbok becomes easy.

Second Embodiment

Hereinafter, a second embodiment of the present invention will be described.

The second embodiment of the present invention is a design method that is applied to women having a very large breast, that is, when the difference between the homology and the euphoria is more than 4 cm. The second embodiment differs from the first embodiment only in the ancient design dimension L3 calculation method, and the method of calculating the design dimensions of the other parts is the same as in the first embodiment.

As mentioned above, modern women have more breast development than women in the past, so if you make hanbok by the traditional method of manufacturing hanbok, it doesn't fit well. In particular, in the case of women with large breasts, it feels inconvenient to wear a hanbok jeogori, the second embodiment is to fit the body of women with large breasts.

Figure 5 shows a second embodiment according to the present invention, (a) is a left back plate excluding the sleeve, (b) is a right front plate excluding the sleeve, (c) shows a left front plate excluding the sleeve. As in the case of the first embodiment, the right back plate is designed symmetrically in the same manner as the left back plate.

In Fig. 5, the design dimension L1 of the rear part is set to (2/4) + 2 cm on the basis of the chest circumference same as passing through the armpit as in the first embodiment.

In addition, the design dimension L2 of the front article is also set to (oil phase / 4) + 2 on the basis of the oil-like cavity in the center of the chest passing through the teat as in the first embodiment.

However, the ancient design dimension L3 is set to (neck circumference / 4)-0.5 cm based on the length of the neck circumference.

The design dimension L4 of the vibration is measured as the body vibration dimension (circumference from the shoulder to the flank) and then (body vibration dimension / 2) + 3 cm based on this.

In addition, the design dimension L5 of a side cavity is made into the design dimension of the said vibration + 5 cm.

In addition, the design dimension L6 of a rear length is made into the design dimension of said side cavity + 2 cm, and the design dimension L7 of the front length is made into the design dimension of +4 cm.

According to the above formula, the design is for women with 88 cm of upper homology (upper chest passing through the armpit), 92 cm of upper sinus cavity, 36 cm of neck circumference, and 38 cm of body vibration (circumference from shoulder to armpit). If you calculate the dimensions,

Design dimensions of back part (L1): 88/4 + 2cm = 24cm

Design dimensions of front part (L2): 92/4 + 2cm = 25cm

Ancient design dimensions (L3): 36/4-0.5 cm = 8.5 cm

Design dimension of vibration (L4): 38/2 + 3 cm = 22 cm

Design dimension of side sinus (L5): 22 + 5 = 27 cm

Design dimensions of the rear length (L6): 27 + 2 = 29 cm

The design dimension (L7) of the front length is 29 + 4 = 33 cm.

By determining the design dimensions as described above, you can make a hanbok that fits the body shape of a particularly big woman.

As can be seen in the comparison between FIG. 5 and FIG. 3, the position and shape of the hinge 191 and the outer shell 192 of the second embodiment are designed differently from the first embodiment.

The other part of the design method is the same as that of the first embodiment.

The exemplary embodiments of the present invention have been described above by way of example, and the present invention is not limited to the above-described embodiments. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that various changes and modifications can be made without departing from the technical spirit of the present invention.

The present invention relates to a method of designing a hanbok low ring for designing dimensions to fit the body of modern women with large breasts when cutting the hanbok cloth, and can be widely used in the field of manufacturing hanbok.

1 is a view showing an example of a conventional women's hanbok jewellery.

2 shows a method of designing a left back plate according to a first embodiment of the present invention.

Figure 3 shows a method of designing the front plate according to the first embodiment of the present invention, (a) is a right front plate without a sleeve, (b) is a view showing a left front plate without a sleeve.

4 illustrates a method of designing a quill in accordance with a first embodiment of the present invention.

Figure 4 shows a method of designing according to a second embodiment of the present invention, (a) is a right back plate without a sleeve, (b) is a right front plate without a sleeve, (c) shows a left front plate with a sleeve omitted. drawing.

<Explanation of symbols for the main parts of the drawings>

100: jeogori 110: front road

120: feather 130: sympathy

140: vibration 150: sleeve

160: shed 170: bleed

180: clothes 190: 섶

191: Ahn 192: Outward

L1: Rear design dimension L2: Front design dimension

L3: Ancient Design Dimensions L4: Vibration Design Dimensions

L5: Side design dimension L6: Back side design dimension

L7: Front Length Design Dimension L8: Makeup

Claims (2)

In the design method of women's hanbok low ring, The design dimension (L1) of the back is (2/4) + 2 cm, based on the upper chest circumference same as across the armpit, The design dimension (L2) of the front part is (oil phase copper / 4) + 2cm, based on the center of circumferential oil circumference passing through the nipple, The ancient design dimension (L3) is [(neck / 2) -1.5] / 2cm based on the length of the neck, The design dimension L4 of the vibration is (body vibration dimension / 2) + 3 cm based on the vibration dimension of the body, The design dimension L5 of the side sinus is the design dimension L4 + 5 cm of the vibration, based on the design dimension of the vibration, The design dimension L6 of the rear length is the design dimension L5 + 2 cm of the side cavity, based on the design dimension of the side cavity, The design dimension (L7) of the front length is cut to the design dimension (L6) + 4 cm of the rear length on the basis of the design dimension of the rear length is the design method of women's hanbok jeori. The method of claim 1, If the difference between the upper chest circumference through the armpits and the upper circumference of the breast circumference through the teats differs by more than 4 cm, the ancient design dimension (L3) (neck circumference / 4)-0.5 cm Design method of women's hanbok jeori ring, characterized in that for cutting.

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