EP0638256A1 - Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Verbunddrahtes um hohle Schmuckwaren zu realisieren - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Verbunddrahtes um hohle Schmuckwaren zu realisieren Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0638256A1
EP0638256A1 EP94401812A EP94401812A EP0638256A1 EP 0638256 A1 EP0638256 A1 EP 0638256A1 EP 94401812 A EP94401812 A EP 94401812A EP 94401812 A EP94401812 A EP 94401812A EP 0638256 A1 EP0638256 A1 EP 0638256A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
bar
tube
alloy
metal
composite wire
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP94401812A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jacques Edouard Malie
Eric Claude D'harlingue
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
COMPTOIR LYON-ALEMAND - LOUYOT
Original Assignee
COMPTOIR LYON-ALEMAND - LOUYOT
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by COMPTOIR LYON-ALEMAND - LOUYOT filed Critical COMPTOIR LYON-ALEMAND - LOUYOT
Publication of EP0638256A1 publication Critical patent/EP0638256A1/de
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B21—MECHANICAL METAL-WORKING WITHOUT ESSENTIALLY REMOVING MATERIAL; PUNCHING METAL
    • B21C—MANUFACTURE OF METAL SHEETS, WIRE, RODS, TUBES OR PROFILES, OTHERWISE THAN BY ROLLING; AUXILIARY OPERATIONS USED IN CONNECTION WITH METAL-WORKING WITHOUT ESSENTIALLY REMOVING MATERIAL
    • B21C37/00—Manufacture of metal sheets, bars, wire, tubes or like semi-manufactured products, not otherwise provided for; Manufacture of tubes of special shape
    • B21C37/06—Manufacture of metal sheets, bars, wire, tubes or like semi-manufactured products, not otherwise provided for; Manufacture of tubes of special shape of tubes or metal hoses; Combined procedures for making tubes, e.g. for making multi-wall tubes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new process for the production of a composite wire intended for the production of hollow jewelry.
  • This process makes it possible, in particular, to obtain threads of great length, of regular thickness, which can be adjusted as required by the manufacturers of articles of jewelry, such as for example rings, bracelets, hoops, chains, necklaces, etc. .
  • These hollow jewels are made from a composite wire comprising a substantially cylindrical core, preferably of circular cross section, consisting of a base metal or an alloy of base metals, covered over its entire outer surface, at the with the exception of a longitudinal groove, a coating made of an alloy based on a precious metal, preferably a gold alloy.
  • the core of the composite wire is not entirely covered by the alloy based on precious metal, it is possible to obtain a hollow jewel, by subjecting the formed jewel to from this composite wire to chemical attack, in particular by immersing it in a more or less dilute acid solution, capable of dissolving the core of common metal or alloy of common metals, without attacking the coating of alloy based on precious metal.
  • precious metal is intended to denote any metal generally considered as such in the field of jewelry.
  • a precious metal is in particular gold, silver, platinum, palladium.
  • precious metal alloy designates any alloy of which at least 30% by weight and preferably at least 37.5% by weight consists of a precious metal.
  • Such an alloy is, for example, a 22-carat, 18-carat or 9-carat gold alloy, commonly used in jewelry.
  • base metal any metal used in jewelry that is not considered a precious metal.
  • a common metal is in particular copper, iron or aluminum.
  • a composite plate is prepared, in a first step, by hot or cold plating of a laminated strip made up of an alloy based on a precious metal, in particular d 'Or, on a band forming a support of the same surface made of a common metal or an alloy of common metals, the thickness ratio of the two bands being chosen according to the nature of the jewelry to be produced.
  • the aforementioned support band is made of copper or copper alloy, for the manufacture of high-grade jewelry (18 carats) and of iron or alloy iron for making low-grade jewelry (9 carats).
  • this composite laminate is transformed into an unwelded rolled tube, the part made of base metal or a base metal alloy forming the internal wall.
  • This transformation is carried out in particular by cutting, from the composite laminate obtained at the end of the above-mentioned second step, strips, the width of which is equal to the developed of the hollow wire which it is desired to obtain, and by subjecting each strip (FIG. 1B) to a rolling operation in a die, then possibly to a drawing (FIG. 1C).
  • the rolled tubes thus produced serve as blanks for the production of jewelry articles, such as in particular chain or curb links, or chain or necklace links.
  • a rod of copper or of a common base metal alloy is profiled in a first step, using a laminated strip made up of an alloy based on a precious metal, in particular gold, the length of which is equal to the developed of said bar.
  • This bar has two longitudinal and parallel U-shaped grooves intended to allow a "stapling" of the strip of precious metal alloy on the bar (Figure 2A).
  • a final drawing pass is made in the round, so as to obtain a cylindrical element with a substantially circular cross section (FIG. 2C).
  • the element thus obtained can also serve as a blank for the production of jewelry articles, after having possibly undergone an additional drawing operation for the manufacture of meshes.
  • the two methods described above do not differ in their purpose, which consists in shaping a jewelry blank, the external part of which is made of a precious metal-based alloy and the internal part of which is made of base metal or a metal alloy. common.
  • the parts prepared from such a composite wire are assembled and welded or brazed, then shaped, the core of said wire being intended to ensure rigidity and mechanical solidity for said setting. in shape.
  • nitric acid for jewelry made of high-alloy gold (18 carats) and dilute sulfuric acid. for low-alloy (9 carat) gold alloy jewelry.
  • the gas evolution occurring during the chemical attack has the effect of evacuating the corrosion products and of renewing the solution in the hardly accessible portions.
  • method A makes it possible to obtain the same thickness of precious metal alloy, for various diameters of wire.
  • the composite yarns thus obtained are of reduced length due to the limited lengths of the blanks usable in plating.
  • method B makes it possible to manufacture wires of greater length than those produced by method A, and these wires have a rectilinear groove.
  • the thickness of the coating based on precious metal obtained according to this method is very irregular, due to the effects of "wedges” resulting from the successive use of dies with square grooves, then with circular grooves.
  • the composite threads obtained according to this method, and the resulting jewelry have, at the aforementioned groove, a slight internal bead.
  • method B leads to wires more suited to the manufacture of mechanical chains than to that of Creole.
  • the present invention aims to solve the technical problem consisting in the supply of a new process for the manufacture of a composite wire intended for the production of hollow jewelry, no longer having the drawbacks of the methods discussed above.
  • this method makes it possible to obtain a very fine, regular groove, the width of which can be controlled and therefore adapted according to the specific requirements of the user, unlike the two methods described above.
  • this groove can be located, which allows it to be oriented towards the hidden face of the jewelry during the manufacture of the latter.
  • this groove allows in particular to take the product in half-rush.
  • this groove guarantees correct chemical attack whatever the diameter and thickness of the precious metal desired.
  • this method makes it possible to obtain a composite wire which can be used directly by the jewelry manufacturer who may, if necessary, carry out a slight recovery of the grooved wire by drawing or drawing to bring it to the desired particular ribs, and it suitable for both mechanical chain and artisanal product manufacturing.
  • the joining together of said tube and said bar is carried out by plating by stretching, then by diffusion annealing.
  • the joining together of said tube and said bar is carried out by co-rolling, then by diffusion annealing.
  • the joining together of said tube and said bar comprises a brazing.
  • liquidus temperature of the solder to be used must be absolutely higher than the temperature at which the diffusion annealing takes place.
  • This third embodiment of the invention makes it possible to obtain a tripled composite yarn.
  • the aforementioned bar is made of copper.
  • the chemical attack intended to facilitate the visual identification of the groove can be carried out using a dilute solution of sulfuric acid at 20%.
  • the present application aims to cover the use of a composite wire obtained by the implementation of the method described above, for the manufacture of hollow jewelry.
  • a doubled composite wire is obtained, wound in a crown and measuring approximately 600 m, with an external diameter equal to 1.1 mm and with a final wall thickness of gold alloy equal to 0 , 22 mm, having the advantageous properties stated above.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Metal Extraction Processes (AREA)
EP94401812A 1993-08-11 1994-08-05 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Verbunddrahtes um hohle Schmuckwaren zu realisieren Ceased EP0638256A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9309857A FR2708837B1 (fr) 1993-08-11 1993-08-11 Procédé pour la fabrication d'un fil composite destiné à la réalisation de bijoux creux.
FR9309857 1993-08-11

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0638256A1 true EP0638256A1 (de) 1995-02-15

Family

ID=9450116

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP94401812A Ceased EP0638256A1 (de) 1993-08-11 1994-08-05 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Verbunddrahtes um hohle Schmuckwaren zu realisieren

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0638256A1 (de)
FI (1) FI943698A (de)
FR (1) FR2708837B1 (de)

Cited By (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
NL1000789C2 (nl) * 1995-07-13 1997-01-14 Unity Industry B V Sieraad gemaakt van stafvormig materiaal dat is opgebouwd uit twee edelmetalen.
ES2121514A1 (es) * 1995-05-31 1998-11-16 Morini Gabriele Procedimiento para la realizacion de perfiles tubulares abiertos dek metal noble.
EP0888732A1 (de) * 1997-07-04 1999-01-07 Cento Group S.p.A. Verbunddraht zur Herstellung von Schmuckwaren
FR2786791A1 (fr) * 1998-12-07 2000-06-09 Ezio Ghiandai Alliage non precieux pour la realisation de l'ame de support d'articles en metal precieux interieurement creux
EP1016356A1 (de) * 1998-12-29 2000-07-05 Target S.r.l. Schmuckstück und Verfahren zur Herstellung hiervon
EP1374717A2 (de) 2002-06-25 2004-01-02 Orocinque S.P.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung von zweifarbigem Schmuckartikel
EP2050350A1 (de) * 2007-10-15 2009-04-22 Silmar S.p.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schmuckstücken, insbesondere Seilen oder Ketten, und mittels eines solchen Verfahrens herzustellende Stücke
BG66006B1 (bg) * 2007-06-14 2010-10-29 Тодор КУЗМОВ Метод за изработване на куха бижутерия
BG66005B1 (bg) * 2006-12-29 2010-10-29 "Касил" Еоод Метод за производство на съставни елементи, предназначени за изработване на кухи бижута от благородни метали
ITFI20120134A1 (it) * 2012-06-27 2013-12-28 Unoaerre Ind S P A "metodo per la produzione di manufatti metallici in metallo nobile o prezioso"
ITUA20161828A1 (it) * 2016-03-18 2017-09-18 Nuovi Gioielli Srl Procedimento per realizzare un articolo di gioielleria, in particolare un bracciale, ed articoli di gioielleria ottenuti mediante tale procedimento
IT201800005009A1 (it) * 2018-05-02 2019-11-02 Metodo di realizzazione di un filo metallico a due fasi, in particolare in lega a base oro e in argento ed un elemento tubolare semilavorato
WO2022090890A1 (en) * 2020-10-27 2022-05-05 Del Pia Srl Hollow metal wire with multiple metal components, particularly for goldsmithing, silversmithing and custode jewellery, and its implementation process

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US921722A (en) * 1908-06-11 1909-05-18 George U Meyer Method of making ornamental blanks.
FR735423A (fr) * 1931-03-19 1932-11-08 Procédé de fabrication de tuyaux et autres pièces tubulaires sans soudure
DE832734C (de) * 1950-01-10 1952-02-28 G Rau Doublefabrik Zur Herstellung hohler Goldwaren dienendes, goldummanteltes Formstueck mit Kern aus Unedelmetall
GB2042943A (en) * 1979-02-20 1980-10-01 Gibbons K T Composite Material of Precious Metals
FR2635953A1 (fr) * 1988-09-05 1990-03-09 Mgz Spa Procede de fabrication d'articles d'ornement de personnes et objets, a l'aide d'un element filiforme a deux composants, et articles ainsi obtenus, tels que chaines, colliers ou bracelets

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US921722A (en) * 1908-06-11 1909-05-18 George U Meyer Method of making ornamental blanks.
FR735423A (fr) * 1931-03-19 1932-11-08 Procédé de fabrication de tuyaux et autres pièces tubulaires sans soudure
DE832734C (de) * 1950-01-10 1952-02-28 G Rau Doublefabrik Zur Herstellung hohler Goldwaren dienendes, goldummanteltes Formstueck mit Kern aus Unedelmetall
GB2042943A (en) * 1979-02-20 1980-10-01 Gibbons K T Composite Material of Precious Metals
FR2635953A1 (fr) * 1988-09-05 1990-03-09 Mgz Spa Procede de fabrication d'articles d'ornement de personnes et objets, a l'aide d'un element filiforme a deux composants, et articles ainsi obtenus, tels que chaines, colliers ou bracelets

Cited By (18)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2121514A1 (es) * 1995-05-31 1998-11-16 Morini Gabriele Procedimiento para la realizacion de perfiles tubulares abiertos dek metal noble.
NL1000789C2 (nl) * 1995-07-13 1997-01-14 Unity Industry B V Sieraad gemaakt van stafvormig materiaal dat is opgebouwd uit twee edelmetalen.
EP0888732A1 (de) * 1997-07-04 1999-01-07 Cento Group S.p.A. Verbunddraht zur Herstellung von Schmuckwaren
US6146772A (en) * 1997-07-04 2000-11-14 Cento Group S.P.A. Composite wire for the manufacture of jewelry articles
US6274250B1 (en) 1997-07-04 2001-08-14 Cento Group S.P.A. Process for manufacture of jewelry and jewelry made thereby
FR2786791A1 (fr) * 1998-12-07 2000-06-09 Ezio Ghiandai Alliage non precieux pour la realisation de l'ame de support d'articles en metal precieux interieurement creux
EP1016356A1 (de) * 1998-12-29 2000-07-05 Target S.r.l. Schmuckstück und Verfahren zur Herstellung hiervon
EP1374717A2 (de) 2002-06-25 2004-01-02 Orocinque S.P.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung von zweifarbigem Schmuckartikel
BG66005B1 (bg) * 2006-12-29 2010-10-29 "Касил" Еоод Метод за производство на съставни елементи, предназначени за изработване на кухи бижута от благородни метали
BG66006B1 (bg) * 2007-06-14 2010-10-29 Тодор КУЗМОВ Метод за изработване на куха бижутерия
EP2050350A1 (de) * 2007-10-15 2009-04-22 Silmar S.p.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schmuckstücken, insbesondere Seilen oder Ketten, und mittels eines solchen Verfahrens herzustellende Stücke
ITFI20120134A1 (it) * 2012-06-27 2013-12-28 Unoaerre Ind S P A "metodo per la produzione di manufatti metallici in metallo nobile o prezioso"
ITUA20161828A1 (it) * 2016-03-18 2017-09-18 Nuovi Gioielli Srl Procedimento per realizzare un articolo di gioielleria, in particolare un bracciale, ed articoli di gioielleria ottenuti mediante tale procedimento
WO2017158445A1 (en) * 2016-03-18 2017-09-21 Nuovi Gioielli S.R.L. Process for making a jewelry article, in particular a bracelet, and jewelry articles obtained by means of such a process
US10874181B2 (en) 2016-03-18 2020-12-29 Nuovi Gioielli S.R.L. Process for making a jewelry article, in particular a bracelet
IT201800005009A1 (it) * 2018-05-02 2019-11-02 Metodo di realizzazione di un filo metallico a due fasi, in particolare in lega a base oro e in argento ed un elemento tubolare semilavorato
WO2019211660A1 (en) * 2018-05-02 2019-11-07 Del Pia S.R.L. Method for the realization of a two layer metal wire, in particular made of gold-based alloy and of silver, and a semi-finished tubular element
WO2022090890A1 (en) * 2020-10-27 2022-05-05 Del Pia Srl Hollow metal wire with multiple metal components, particularly for goldsmithing, silversmithing and custode jewellery, and its implementation process

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FI943698A0 (fi) 1994-08-10
FR2708837A1 (fr) 1995-02-17
FI943698A (fi) 1995-02-12
FR2708837B1 (fr) 1995-11-10

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