EP0636722A1 - Woven fabric with jacquard pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

Warp and weft fabric making it possible to produce articles of the Jacquard table-linen type, produced on a conventional weaving machine requiring no particular adaptation and using a single warp. It is characterized in that it is based on a combination of weaves designed in such a way that each weave comprises, in its repeat, a number of identical sets of weft threads which is defined by the formula: 1/3 </= number of different sets of weft threads DIVIDED number of wefts to the weave repeat </= 2/3 <IMAGE>

Description

The present invention relates to a new type of warp and weft fabric having Jacquard effects which can be used more particularly for making articles of the table linen, office and bed linen types.

In the following description, the invention will be described for fabrics intended to produce articles of the table linen type, but it is obvious that this is not limiting and that other applications could be envisaged.

Nowadays, Jacquard table linen fabrics are normally composed of a satin base of 5 and possibly other weaves in small proportion intended to give relief to the patterns of the Jacquard design.

In general, to make such articles, cotton, linen, regenerated cellulose or polyester threads are used, pure or in a mixture.

Such Jacquard fabrics are essentially composed from weaves where each weft thread has a particular play in the weave ratio.

Fil de chaîne no. 1 :

1 fil pris 4 fils laissés

Fil de chaîne no. 2 :

3 fils laissés 1 fil pris 1 fil laissé

Fil de chaîne no. 3 :

1 fil laissé 1 fil pris 3 fils laissés

Fil de chaîne no. 4 :

4 fils laissés 1 fil pris

Fil de chaîne no. 5 :

2 fils laissés 1 fil pris 2 fils laissés.

Trame no. 1 :

1 fil pris 4 fils laissés

Trame no. 2 :

2 fils laissés 1 fil pris 2 fils laissés

Trame no. 3 :

4 fils laissés 1 fil pris

Trame no. 4 :

1 fil laissé 1 fil pris 3 fils laissés

Trame no. 5 :

3 fils laissés 1 fil pris 1 fil laissé.

As an indication, for a classic Jacquard fabric produced on a satin base weave of 5, the respective work of the warp and weft threads will be, in a weave ratio, as illustrated in attached FIG. 0:

Warp thread no. 1:

1 wire taken 4 wires left

Warp thread no. 2:

3 wires left 1 wire taken 1 wire left

Warp thread no. 3:

1 wire left 1 wire taken 3 wires left

Warp thread no. 4:

4 wires left 1 wire taken

Warp thread no. 5:

2 wires left 1 wire taken 2 wires left.

Frame no. 1:

1 wire taken 4 wires left

Frame no. 2:

2 wires left 1 wire taken 2 wires left

Frame no. 3:

4 wires left 1 wire taken

Frame no. 4:

1 wire left 1 wire taken 3 wires left

Frame no. 5:

3 wires left 1 wire taken 1 wire left.

It can therefore be seen that in such a fabric, the weft thread sets are totally different in a weave ratio, which leads to a limitation in the achievable patterns.

Now we have found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, a new type of fabric which, by the simple means of a selection and combination of the armors used for its production, makes it possible to obtain articles. which, for a texture identical to a traditional damask fabric based on satin of 5 (that is to say, same number and same quality of threads in warp and weft), have a higher bulking and flexibility, and which , according to a preferred embodiment, makes it possible to increase production speeds.

In general, the new warp and weft fabric according to the invention allowing the production of Jacquard table linen articles, is produced on a conventional weaving loom requiring no particular adaptation and using a single warp, and it is characterized in that it is based on a combination of weaves designed so that each weave has in its ratio a number of identical sets of weft threads defined by the formula: $$\text{1/3 ≦}\frac{\text{number of different sets of weft threads}}{\text{number of frames in the armor ratio}}\text{≦ 2/3}$$

In other words, it can be said that the fabrics according to the invention are exclusively composed of a combination of weaves where no weave is formed in its ratio by completely different sets of weft thread, as in the case of a conventional fabric such as that illustrated in FIG. 0 and the bottom of which is generally designed on a satin base of 5 or 8.

In accordance with the invention, both the background armor and the effect armor comprise identical sets of weft thread which are necessarily followed by two or three. They can be distributed in an orderly or random fashion: an armor with an ordered group of wefts is an armor where all the sets of different weft yarns are composed exclusively by two consecutive identical wefts or composed exclusively by three consecutive identical wefts; a random group weave weave is one in which all the different weave sets are composed of two or three consecutive identical wefts.

These weaves with random grouping of wefts are essentially used to obtain particular effects generated by different wefts in title, material or colors.

The fabrics composed of weaves with ordered groupings of wefts, are used to obtain fabrics resembling the classic fabrics based on satin of 5, but with, for an identical texture, a swelling and a greater flexibility and which allow, according to a shape preferred embodiment, to significantly increase the production speeds, because it is possible, if desired, to simultaneously insert two or three wefts, which leads to a weaving time reduced by half or 2/3.

The weight of the articles produced in accordance with the invention will depend on the applications and, for example, between 180 and 250 g / m2 for fabrics intended for table linen. As a raw material for producing articles in accordance with the invention, conventional threads such as cotton threads, polyester cotton, etc. will be used.

Furthermore, in accordance with the invention, the weaves are chosen so as to obtain at least a shiny satin appearance and a matt appearance, while retaining the same mass per square meter of the articles, the interlacing of the threads being such as the wefts. do not slide relative to each other for lack of binding, the floats must not be greater than 11, this limit having been determined by experimentation, the articles obtained beyond lacking in strength.

The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the examples of embodiment which follow and which are illustrated by the appended figures 1 to 10 which are conventional representations of weaves which, combined, make it possible to produce Jacquard fabrics. according to the invention, weaves which, for a person skilled in the art, allow the exact reproduction of said fabric.

A Jacquard fabric is, in a well known manner, composed of a background weave and one or more effect weaves. The invention will be described more particularly for the production of the back weave, this being predominant and giving most of the characteristics to the fabric, the effects being also achieved by using a combination of the weaves as illustrated.

In the first embodiment illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 8, all the weaves of the fabrics are designed so that the play of the warp threads is always even. It is possible, by judiciously choosing from one of these weaves, given by way of example, for the background, to have warp threads less linked than with the traditional satin weave of 5; the warp thread being less bound, it is free therefore more swelling. The choice of this type of weft weave used as background weave allows us to obtain this swelling, while retaining the shiny appearance characteristic of satin, while ensuring very good binding of the warp threads using floats. of weft of reduced lengths compared to those of the warp, which would not be the case using a less bound satin such as for example a satin of 8. This characteristic also results in a clearly greater flexibility, without touching it of the fabric resembles that of a decontextured fabric nor that the dynamometric resistances are significantly altered. This swelling obtained without harming the mechanical resistance of the fabric, gives a decisive advantage for the destination of this product. Indeed, the tissue object of the The present invention, when used as a towel, provides much appreciated comfort, especially when wiping the lips during a meal.

Thanks to such an armor design, and by the choice of their starting point, it is therefore possible to simultaneously insert wefts of different nature and colors. This produces effects that cannot be achieved with the traditional weaving method where picks are inserted one by one. It is also possible to make fabrics with a special effect of stripes, the order of passage of two or more colors is randomly distributed in the width. When the colors of the two cotton weft threads are very close, we obtain an aspect close to that given by a colored half-woven fabric.

Fil de chaîne no. 1 :

2 fils pris 6 fils laissés

Fil de chaîne no. 2 :

2 fils laissés 2 fils pris 4 fils laissés

Fil de chaîne no. 3 :

6 fils laissés 2 fils pris

Fil de chaîne no. 4 :

4 fils laissés 2 fils pris 2 fils laissés.

Trame no. 1 :

1 fil pris 3 fils laissés

Trame no. 2 :

1 fil pris 3 fils laissés

Trame no. 3 :

1 fil laissé 1 fil pris 2 fils laissés

Trame no. 4 :

1 fil laissé 1 fil pris 2 fils laissés

Trame no. 5 :

3 fils laissés 1 fil pris

Trame no. 6 :

3 fils laissés 1 fil pris

Trame no. 7 :

2 fils laissés 1 fil pris 1 fil laissé

Trame no. 8 :

2 fils laissés 1 fil pris 1 fil laissé.

As an indication, it is noted with reference to FIG. 3, that the work of the weft and warp threads is as follows:

Warp thread no. 1:

2 sons taken 6 sons left

Warp thread no. 2:

2 wires left 2 wires caught 4 wires left

Warp thread no. 3:

6 sons left 2 sons caught

Warp thread no. 4:

4 wires left 2 wires taken 2 wires left.

Frame no. 1:

1 wire taken 3 wires left

Frame no. 2:

1 wire taken 3 wires left

Frame no. 3:

1 wire left 1 wire taken 2 wires left

Frame no. 4:

1 wire left 1 wire taken 2 wires left

Frame no. 5:

3 wires left 1 wire taken

Frame no. 6:

3 wires left 1 wire taken

Frame no. 7:

2 wires left 1 wire taken 1 wire left

Frame no. 8:

2 wires left 1 wire taken 1 wire left.

It can therefore be seen that in the armor ratio, there are eight wefts, but only four different sets of wires; the weave ratio being 8, we therefore obtain a ration "number of different weft yarns / number of weft yarns with the weave ratio of 4/8 or 1/2 in accordance with the invention.

FIG. 10 illustrates a variant in accordance with the invention in which a set of warp threads is combined randomly composed of an even number of frames and an odd number of frames. This weave is considered to be a random weft weave.

The combination of these weaves woven on a machine makes it possible to select wefts associated with different weft colors giving non-reversible multi-colored and color-changing fabrics, quite specific and unusual.

Such articles are moreover more flexible and have a bulk which is greater than conventional articles (with identical texture) during use. Such items can be produced more quickly.

Finally, as said previously, it is possible to produce fabrics having specific aspects, such as stripes, the order of passage of two or more colors of which is randomly distributed in the width, for example by screening two weft threads of different color simultaneously. When the colors of the two weft threads are very close (same color but different shade), one obtains an aspect close to that given by a colored half-woven fabric.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, but it covers all the variants produced in the same spirit.

Claims (5)

1 / Warp and weft fabric allowing the production of Jacquard table linen type articles, produced on a conventional weaving loom requiring no particular adaptation and using a single warp, characterized in that it is based on a combination of '' weaves designed so that each weave has in its report a number of identical sets of weft threads defined by the formula: $$\text{1/3 ≦}\frac{\text{number of different sets of weft threads}}{\text{number of frames in the armor ratio}}\text{≦ 2/3}$$

2 / fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the identical sets of weft thread follow each other by two or three and are distributed in an orderly or random manner. 3 / fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that the identical sets of weft yarn distributed in an orderly fashion, are distributed so as to produce a weave composed exclusively by a set of two or three consecutive identical wefts. 4 / fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that the identical sets of weft yarn with random grouping, form a weave in which all the different weft games are irregularly composed by two or three consecutive identical wefts making it possible to obtain effects by the choice of different screens in title, material or colors. 5 / fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that it has an appearance similar to conventional fabrics based on satin of 5 and in that it has, for an identical texture, a swelling and greater flexibility.

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