EP0613344B1 - Bijou - Google Patents

Bijou Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0613344B1
EP0613344B1 EP92923243A EP92923243A EP0613344B1 EP 0613344 B1 EP0613344 B1 EP 0613344B1 EP 92923243 A EP92923243 A EP 92923243A EP 92923243 A EP92923243 A EP 92923243A EP 0613344 B1 EP0613344 B1 EP 0613344B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
piece
guiding
base body
jewellery
longitudinal frame
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP92923243A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0613344A1 (fr
Inventor
Albrecht Theodor Heiden
Max Heiden
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE9114441U external-priority patent/DE9114441U1/de
Priority claimed from DE9209037U external-priority patent/DE9209037U1/de
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP0613344A1 publication Critical patent/EP0613344A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0613344B1 publication Critical patent/EP0613344B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A44C17/0241—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations slidably arranged
    • A44C17/025—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations slidably arranged with the gem sliding along guiding rails
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C9/00—Finger-rings
    • A44C9/0007—Finger-rings made of several rings
    • A44C9/0015—Finger-rings made of several rings connected or interlinked to each other

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a piece of jewelry with movable jewelry elements.
  • a jewelry watch is known from GB-A-2 181 939, in which a circular disk-shaped watch body is enclosed by two coaxial guide rings which are connected to one another by webs. Round diamonds are used in opposite, triangular grooves of the guide rings, which engage with their peripheral edges directly, ie without a setting, in the grooves. The diamonds can be moved in the grooves. Diagonally opposite one another, a fixed brilliant by means of a soldered setting ring and a brilliant set in a setting are arranged in the displacement path of the movable brilliants.
  • the setting closes an insertion opening for the diamonds and is detachably fastened with a screw. Due to their polygonal and thus angular cut and their low weight, they can fit in the guide rings Do not automatically turn slidable guided diamonds around their axis during their movement.
  • Pieces of jewelry with movable jewelry elements are known.
  • These pieces of jewelry also comprise elongated guide rails arranged in pairs next to one another, which are connected by transverse webs to form a rigid guide frame.
  • the guide rails can be bent into rings which, with the same ring diameter, are arranged axially next to one another in relation to the ring axis and form, for example, a bangle.
  • the rings can also have different diameters and can be arranged coaxially in a common plane, so that brooches or earrings can be produced, for example.
  • Ring segments of the above type can also be connected to pieces of jewelry, for example necklaces or brooches.
  • the jewelry elements of these pieces of jewelry are held on jewelry element slides, which also form frames for gemstones.
  • the decorative element slides engage between the guide rails of the frame element which are arranged next to one another in pairs and mostly have peg-shaped guide projections which engage in U-shaped guide grooves on the mutually facing sides of the guide rails.
  • the guide grooves have to be made comparatively narrow if narrow guide rails are desired.
  • the jewelry element slides can only be guided mechanically stable to a limited extent, in particular if a certain play is additionally permitted for easy mobility.
  • the guide grooves also become dirty during use and have to be cleaned laboriously if the mobility of the jewelry element sled should be preserved.
  • the guide rails are usually made of precious metal.
  • the guide rails of the known pieces of jewelry are made from a metal tube into which a longitudinal slot is milled to form the guide groove.
  • a slight deformation is sufficient to narrow the slot width, which leads to the jamming of the jewelry element slides.
  • a piece of jewelry with elongated longitudinal frame parts arranged in pairs next to one another and in the longitudinal direction at a constant distance from one another, which are connected by transverse webs to form a rigid guide frame and of which each longitudinal frame part has an elongated basic body, and with at least one decorative element slide which grips between the basic bodies of the pair of longitudinal frame parts, the guide surfaces arranged in pairs on each base body of the pair of longitudinal frame parts is freely displaceable in the longitudinal direction, the problem explained above is solved in that the guide surfaces of each base body are jointly provided on sides of a guide rib extending along the base body and that The base body is designed as a tube, from the annularly closed tube wall of which the guide rib projects outwards and the base body, as seen i m cut across its longitudinal direction, one on both sides of the guide rib, with respect to
  • the guide rib is essentially freely accessible on both sides, so that the guide surfaces in use are usually already cleaned by the clothing and the like coming into contact with the piece of jewelry.
  • the jewelry element sled also wipe off dirt more easily than with conventional jewelry of the generic type. While conventional jewelry of the generic type had to take care of the placement of the guide groove in the design of the profile, the profile of the base body can now be selected according to the desired design and the guide rib can also be attached to a mechanically suitable location. This opens up further design options.
  • the tube wall of the base body designed as a tube remains closed in a ring, and the guide rib protrudes outwards from the closed tube wall.
  • the mechanical stability of the piece of jewelry can be increased considerably in this way without restricting the design options.
  • the tube can have a circular cross-section or a polygonal, in particular square cross-section, and the position of the guide rib on the circumference of the tube wall can be chosen in accordance with the design idea. It is particularly advantageous if the base body has a circumferential contour which adjoins on both sides of the guide rib with a contour region which adjoins the guide surface.
  • the guide rib is thus located within the gap delimited by the two basic bodies of the pair of frame longitudinal parts, as a result of which not only the guide ribs but also the guide members provided on the decorative element slide are protected from mechanical damage.
  • the guide rib can also be used as a design means, for example by flushing into one of the side surfaces, preferably the main visible surface on the front of the piece of jewelry.
  • the longitudinal frame part has a two-legged angular profile cross section, the first leg of which forms the base body and the second leg of which forms the guide rib.
  • the guide members of the jewelry element slide in turn form opposite guide surfaces which receive the guide rib between them.
  • the guide members can be, for example, a groove which receives the guide rib in a slide body which engages between the base bodies of the pair of frame longitudinal parts.
  • guide members are also suitable which only provide for a more or less wide-area contact of the jewelry element slide on the guide rib on one side of the guide rib, while on the opposite side, preferably the rear side of the piece of jewelry, narrow projections or crosspieces can optionally also be provided.
  • the groove is designed as a circumferential groove and has a groove bottom with a circular circumferential contour. This has the advantage that the groove can be produced precisely on a lathe, for example, and the circular shape of the particularly cylindrical groove bottom makes the contact area between the groove bottom and the apex of the guide rib very small, even with curved guide ribs, which benefits the smoothness of the decorative element in its guides is coming.
  • the anti-rotation protection can be achieved by guide surfaces of the groove legs relative to the basic body of the longitudinal frame parts.
  • the slide body has a circular cross-section overall, so that the decorative elements form rollers that can roll along the guide ribs.
  • the piece of jewelry can also be combined into one unit, for example a multi-row bangle, in the piece of jewelry according to the invention.
  • at least one of the base bodies is common to a further pair of longitudinal frame parts and carries a further guide rib.
  • pieces of jewelry with frame longitudinal parts of essentially the same width can be produced in this way.
  • the gemstones are held essentially only longitudinally displaceably on the longitudinal frame parts of the guide frame. It has surprisingly been found that the attractiveness of jewelry with movable gemstones and especially diamonds can be increased considerably if the gemstones are not only arranged in a longitudinally movable manner in the guide frame, but can also roll on the longitudinal frame parts during their longitudinal movement, so that they not only unwind move translationally, but also turn around their axis.
  • the carriage body forming a setting for the gemstone and gripping between the longitudinal frame parts has a circumferential groove with a circular circumferential contour of its groove bottom, in which engage the guide ribs provided on each of the two longitudinal frame parts, running in the longitudinal direction thereof and opposite the other longitudinal frame part.
  • the carriage body forming the gemstone thus forms an axially guided roller on the longitudinal frame parts, which is not only displaceable along the longitudinal frame parts, but can also roll on the longitudinal frame parts rotating about its axis. In the case of diamonds in particular, the rotation increases their fire.
  • the guide frame and the jewelry element slide can be designed so that they are not interchangeably guided on the longitudinal frame parts. This benefits the stability of the guide frame and the jewelry element slide. It goes without saying that the guide frame or also the decorative element slide can consist of several parts which are movable relative to one another and which are detachably fixed to one another by means of a locking device. In this way, the jewelry elements can be exchanged, or the jewelry piece can be supplemented with additional jewelry elements if required, without the need for manual processing of the jewelry piece.
  • the displacement path through which the decorative elements can run in the guides is a multiple of the diameter of the decorative element slides, which are circular in cross section, so that the decorative element slides or gemstone settings that roll on the longitudinal frame parts can accelerate sufficiently in rotation.
  • the invention is particularly suitable for pieces of jewelry whose guide frames enable sufficient acceleration distances, as is the case in particular with bracelets or necklaces. It goes without saying that other pieces of jewelry can also be constructed in accordance with the principles explained above.
  • Fig. 1 shows a segment-shaped section of an otherwise closed bangle with two substantially contour-like, ring-shaped longitudinal frame parts 1, 3, which are arranged axially next to one another and at an axial distance from one another in the direction of the ring axis.
  • Cross struts 5, of which FIG. 1 shows only a single one connect the longitudinal frame parts 1, 3 to form an overall rigid guide frame for one or more decorative elements 7 guided freely movable in the longitudinal direction between the two longitudinal frame parts 1, 3.
  • the bangle can optionally consist of several , each be composed for segments forming guide frames and, if appropriate, include stops for limiting the displacement path of the decorative elements 7.
  • the decorative elements 7 can consist of several parts which are detachably connected to one another, or the guide frame consists of several parts which are detachably connected to one another, as will be explained in more detail below.
  • the longitudinal frame parts 1, 3 and the decorative elements 7 can also be designed such that the decorative elements 7 cannot be replaced operationally, ie non-destructively.
  • Each of the longitudinal frame parts 1, 3 comprises a base body 9 designed as a tube 9 with a circular cross section in the exemplary embodiment shown.
  • a guide rib 11 extending in the longitudinal direction of the guide body 9 projects from each of the base bodies 9 toward the respective other guide body 9.
  • the guide ribs 11, seen in a sectional plane perpendicular to the longitudinal direction, lie on the connecting line of the pipe centers and project radially from the pipe wall which continues in the circumferential direction to the guide rib 11 on both sides.
  • each of the decorative elements 7 has a slide body 15 which grips between the longitudinal frame parts 1, 3 and which, viewed transversely to the two guide ribs 11, has an essentially circular cross-sectional shape and has a circumferential groove 17 into which the guide ribs 11 engage with play from opposite sides.
  • the essentially tubular-cylindrical slide body 15 in the illustrated embodiment of FIG. 1 forms a setting for a gem 19, for example a brilliant, on the visible side of the piece of jewelry, here the convex side of the bangle. Due to the play between the guide ribs 11 and the circumferential groove 17, the decorative elements 7 can slide along the guide ribs 11 and in particular also roll off. Depending on the current location of the bangle, its appearance changes.
  • pairs of longitudinal frame parts 1, 3 running at the same distance from each other are required.
  • individual pairs of the frame longitudinal parts can be assigned to adjacent frame longitudinal part pairs.
  • 1 shows a further longitudinal frame part 21, which essentially corresponds to the longitudinal frame part 3 and is connected to the longitudinal frame parts 1, 3 by additional transverse webs 23 or extensions of the transverse web 5 to form a rigid guide frame.
  • the longitudinal frame part 21 and also the longitudinal frame part 1 are provided on opposite sides with guide ribs 11, as has already been explained for the longitudinal frame parts 1, 3.
  • the shared frame longitudinal part 1 thus carries guide ribs 11 on radially opposite sides.
  • FIG. 1 A variant of the bangle from FIG. 1 is explained below, which differs from the bangle of FIG. 1 primarily by the cross-sectional shape of the longitudinal frame parts and the type and shape of the decorative elements. Components with the same function are designated by the reference numbers in FIG. 1 and, to distinguish them, by the letter a. For explanation, reference is made to the description of FIG. 1.
  • the bangle shown in the detail in FIG. 2 has longitudinal frame parts 1 a, 3 a connected to a rigid guide frame by cross bars 5 a, each of which is designed as a tube 9 a with a rectangular cross section.
  • the pipe surface facing the visible side of the piece of jewelry, here the convex side of the bangle, is extended towards the other longitudinal frame part and forms a guide rib 11a extending in the longitudinal direction of the longitudinal frame part 1a or 3a, the sides of which point away from one another form guide surfaces 13a for the decorative element 7a .
  • the decorative element 7a comprises a slide body 15a which grips between the longitudinal frame parts 1a, 3a and has a foot 25 which is elongated in the longitudinal direction of the longitudinal frame parts 1a, 3a and which is connected by a neck 27 to a figurative decorative body 19a.
  • the neck 27 has a circular cross section and, together with the mutually facing surfaces of the foot 25 and the jewelry body 19a, forms an annular groove 17a with a groove bottom formed by the neck 27.
  • the guide ribs 11a engage with play in the annular groove 17a from opposite sides and guide the decorative element 7a freely displaceably on the guide ribs 11a.
  • the elongated shape of the foot 25 prevents twisting of the jewelry element 7a.
  • a variant of the decorative element 7a is shown at 29, which differs essentially from the decorative element 7a differs only by the design of the carriage body 15a.
  • the carriage body 15a of the jewelery element 29 has a neck 31 which deviates from the circular shape, in particular a square or rectangular neck 31, which, opposite the jewelery body 19a of the jewelery element 29, carries one or, as shown, a plurality of transverse ribs 33 which together with the jewelery body 19a have the guide ribs 11a between them record, tape.
  • FIG. 2 shows only one pair of longitudinal frame parts. In this embodiment too, several pairs of longitudinal frame parts can be provided for guiding decorative elements. 1, figurative jewelery elements can also be guided, as shown in FIG. 2, while jewelery elements according to FIG. 1 can also be provided for the jewelery of FIG. 2.
  • Bracelets have been explained above.
  • other pieces of jewelry for example necklaces, brooches, finger rings, earrings or the like, can also be produced after all that is required is that the longitudinal frame parts run at a constant distance next to one another and guide ribs on their mutually facing sides for guiding the jewelry elements have, which are designed without undercuts transversely to the guide surfaces of the guide ribs.
  • This design of the guide ribs ensures that the guide ribs are more or less freely accessible, so that dirt cannot collect or can accumulate only to a limited extent in the region of the guide ribs. Since the guide ribs are exposed, they are automatically cleaned by the decorative elements.
  • the jewelry pieces according to the invention are characterized by high mechanical stability and usability.
  • the design of the jewelry element slides and their guidance on longitudinal frame parts of the guide frame ensures that gemstones, in particular diamonds, seated in settings not only move along the longitudinal frame parts, but also roll on the longitudinal frame parts can to increase the attractiveness of the piece of jewelry.

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  • Adornments (AREA)

Abstract

Un bijou comprend des paires de pièces longitudinales allongées (1, 3) formant cadre, avec un écartement mutuel constant dans le sens longitudinal, reliées par des traverses (5) de manière à former un cadre rigide de guidage. Chaque pièce longitudinale formant cadre comprend un corps de base (9) allongé, notamment tubulaire, avec une paroi tubulaire annulaire fermée, sur lequel fait saillie vers l'autre pièce longitudinale formant cadre une arête de guidage (11) qui s'étend dans le sens de sa longueur. Des éléments décoratifs (7) sont montés librement mobiles sur les arêtes de guidage. Le profil du pourtour du corps de base (9) est en contact avec les arêtes de guidage (11) des deux côtés sans contre-dépouilles. Cette conception permet d'obtenir un guidage mécaniquement stable des éléments décoratifs mobiles (7). On évite notamment que des salissures déposées dans la zone des arêtes de guidage n'entraînent un blocage des éléments décoratifs (7).

Claims (9)

  1. Pièce décorative comportant des parties longitudinales de cadre (1, 3, 31 ; 1a, 3a) allongées, agencées côte à côte par paires à distance constante les unes des autres dans la direction longitudinale, qui sont reliées par des barres transversales (5, 23 ; 5a) pour former un cadre de guidage rigide et parmi lesquelles chaque partie longitudinale de cadre (1, 3, 21 ; 1a, 3a) présente un corps de base allongé (9 ; 9a), et comportant au moins un chariot d'élément décoratif (15 ; 15a) se mettant en prise entre les corps de base (9 ; 9a) de la paire de parties longitudinales de cadre (1, 3, 21 ; 1a, 3a), chariot qui est guidé mobile librement dans la direction longitudinale avec des organes de guidage (17 ; 17a) sur des surfaces de guidage (13 ; 13a) agencées par paires sur chaque corps de base (9 ; 9a) de la paire de parties longitudinales de cadre, caractérisée en ce que les surfaces de guidage (13 ; 13a) de chaque corps de base (9 ; 9a) sont prévues en commun sur des faces opposées l'une à l'autre d'une membrure de guidage (11 ; 11a) s'étendant le long du corps de base (9 ; 9a) et en ce que le corps de base (9 ; 9a) est conformé en tube, depuis la paroi tubulaire fermée en anneau duquel dépasse la membrure de guidage (11 ; 11a) vers l'extérieur et le corps de base (9), vu en coupe transversalement à sa direction longitudinale, par rapport à ses surfaces de guidage (13 ; 13a), a un contour périphérique se raccordant pour l'essentiel sans contre-dépouille à la membrure de guidage (11 ; 11a).
  2. Pièce décorative selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le tube a une section transversale circulaire ou polygonale, en particulier une section transversale quadratique.
  3. Pièce décorative selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que le corps de base (9) a un contour périphérique qui se raccorde des deux côtés de la membrure de guidage (11) à une zone de contour se raccordant transversalement à la surface de guidage (13).
  4. Pièce décorative selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que le contour périphérique du corps de base (9) dépasse de la membrure de guidage approximativement de la même longueur de chaque côté.
  5. Pièce décorative selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que la partie longitudinale de cadre (1a, 3a) a une section en profil coudé à deux branches, dont la première branche (9a) forme le corps de base et la deuxième branche (11a) forme la membrure de guidage.
  6. Pièce décorative selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que les organes de guidage du chariot d'élément décoratif sont conformés en rainure (17 ; 17a) recevant la membrure de guidage (11 ; 11a) dans un corps de chariot (15 ; 15a) se mettant en prise entre les corps de base (9 ; 9a) de la paire de parties longitudinales de cadre (1, 3 ; 1a, 3a).
  7. Pièce décorative selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que la rainure est conformée en rainure périphérique (17) dont le fond de rainure a un contour périphérique circulaire.
  8. Pièce décorative selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que le corps de chariot (15) a une section transversale circulaire et forme une monture pour une pierre précieuse (19).
  9. Pièce décorative selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce qu'au moins l'un des corps de base (9) est commun à une autre paire de parties longitudinales et porte une autre membrure de guidage (11).
EP92923243A 1991-11-19 1992-11-05 Bijou Expired - Lifetime EP0613344B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE9114441U DE9114441U1 (de) 1991-11-19 1991-11-19 Schmuckstück mit beweglichen Schmuckelementen
DE9114441U 1991-11-19
DE9209037U 1992-07-06
DE9209037U DE9209037U1 (de) 1992-07-06 1992-07-06 Schmuckstück
PCT/EP1992/002536 WO1993009691A1 (fr) 1991-11-19 1992-11-05 Bijou

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0613344A1 EP0613344A1 (fr) 1994-09-07
EP0613344B1 true EP0613344B1 (fr) 1997-02-05

Family

ID=25958871

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP92923243A Expired - Lifetime EP0613344B1 (fr) 1991-11-19 1992-11-05 Bijou

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0613344B1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2919192A (fr)
DE (1) DE59208024D1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2099839T3 (fr)
WO (1) WO1993009691A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19959848C2 (de) * 1999-12-10 2003-04-24 Martin Ochs Ringörmiges Schmuckstück und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung
EP1314372A1 (fr) * 2001-11-23 2003-05-28 Century Time Gems Ltd Bracelet comportant au moins un bijou
WO2003077699A1 (fr) * 2002-03-15 2003-09-25 Toshihiko Kimura Bijou
AT501709B1 (de) * 2003-02-28 2006-11-15 Gold Backfrieder Gmbh Halterung für mehrere schmuckelemente
FR2926444B1 (fr) * 2008-01-18 2012-08-10 Francois Caronia Bijou destine a etre porte au doigt modulable et confortable
ITVR20120037A1 (it) * 2012-03-06 2013-09-07 Dibi Spa Procedimento di fabbricazione di un manufatto e manufatto così ottenuto
WO2014032075A1 (fr) * 2012-08-30 2014-03-06 Fotia Dominic John Ensemble bijou comprenant des breloques coulissantes
WO2016196966A1 (fr) * 2015-06-03 2016-12-08 Renaissance Jewelry New York, Inc. Bijou doté de sertissures coulissantes
IT202000007570A1 (it) * 2020-04-09 2021-10-09 Apadula Gianluca Monile perfezionato, particolarmente ad estetica variabile.

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2066E (fr) * 1903-12-16 Charles Jean Baptiste Paisseau Système de montage des perles fines et pierres pour la joaillerie
US2749597A (en) * 1953-02-02 1956-06-12 Fus Walter Method of mounting stones in jewelry
FR2344245A1 (fr) * 1976-03-18 1977-10-14 Gay Xavier Article de bijouterie ou d'horlogerie
FR2376638A1 (fr) * 1977-01-06 1978-08-04 Weber Marie Jose Bijou a aspect variable
FR2539597A1 (fr) * 1983-01-24 1984-07-27 Stein Paul Pendentif a elements variables
FR2598065B1 (fr) * 1986-05-02 1988-10-21 Sussex France Bijou
WO1993002585A1 (fr) * 1991-07-30 1993-02-18 Wolfgang Blank Bijou

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU2919192A (en) 1993-06-15
EP0613344A1 (fr) 1994-09-07
ES2099839T3 (es) 1997-06-01
WO1993009691A1 (fr) 1993-05-27
DE59208024D1 (de) 1997-03-20

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