EP0602489B1 - Fil à coudre en fibres synthétiques et/ou naturelles - Google Patents

Fil à coudre en fibres synthétiques et/ou naturelles Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0602489B1
EP0602489B1 EP93119600A EP93119600A EP0602489B1 EP 0602489 B1 EP0602489 B1 EP 0602489B1 EP 93119600 A EP93119600 A EP 93119600A EP 93119600 A EP93119600 A EP 93119600A EP 0602489 B1 EP0602489 B1 EP 0602489B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sewing thread
yarn
thread according
sewing
twist
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP93119600A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0602489A1 (fr
Inventor
Karl Greifeneder
Kurt Truckenmüller
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Amann and Soehne GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
Amann and Soehne GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=25921535&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=EP0602489(B1) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Priority claimed from DE4324610A external-priority patent/DE4324610A1/de
Application filed by Amann and Soehne GmbH and Co KG filed Critical Amann and Soehne GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP0602489A1 publication Critical patent/EP0602489A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0602489B1 publication Critical patent/EP0602489B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/44—Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
    • D02G3/46—Sewing-cottons or the like

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a sewing thread made of synthetic and / or natural fibers.
  • Sewing threads are known in different designs.
  • EP 0 295 601 B1 describes a sewing thread which consists of at least two multifilament yarn components intermingled with one another.
  • German patent application P 42 15 212.7 is directed to a core yarn which has a multifilament core, this multifilament core being wound with a second yarn component to form the core yarn.
  • German patent application P 42 15 016, also previously registered and not yet published, is directed to a sewing thread which consists of at least two multifilament yarn components twisted together.
  • the above-mentioned prior art teaches that the differently constructed sewing threads always have a certain specific strength, depending on the construction of the sewing thread is between 32 cN / tex and about 85 cN / tex.
  • the present invention has for its object to provide a sewing thread made of synthetic and / or natural fibers, which has particularly good sewing properties.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention made of synthetic and / or natural fibers is distinguished by the fact that it has a defined hairiness (sh), which is between 2.5 and 7.5, measured with a Uster thread uniformity tester UT3.
  • a first embodiment of the sewing thread according to the invention provides that the sewing thread has a hairiness between 3.0 and 7.0.
  • Such a sewing thread has the advantages already described to an increased extent, so that it is outstandingly suitable for all sewing operations.
  • the thread count of the sewing thread according to the invention depends on the particular application of the sewing thread.
  • the effective thread count of the sewing thread according to the invention varies between 150 dtex and 4,500 dtex, preferably between 180 dtex and 2,400 dtex, the hairiness values and thread counts specified above being determined on sewing threads such as those which are commercially available as sewing thread ready for sale. In other words, these are values that have been determined on the finished product, ie in particular on dyed, finished and ready-made sewing threads.
  • a first embodiment of the sewing thread according to the invention provides that the sewing thread according to the invention consists of a twisted fiber yarn, the twisted fiber yarn preferably being made from at least two and in particular from three yarn components, each yarn component being pre-twisted for itself. It has been shown here that in particular those yarn components can be used for the production of the sewing thread according to the invention with the above-mentioned hairiness, in which a twist factor ⁇ between 80 and 130 has been selected for the pre-twists.
  • the rotation coefficient ⁇ is defined as follows: Regarding the twist factor ⁇ , which is selected in order to then twist the pre-twisted yarn components to form the sewing thread according to the invention, which is a twisted fiber yarn, it should be noted that here this twist twist has a twist coefficient ⁇ between 80 and 150. This then makes it possible in particular to create a twisted fiber yarn according to the invention which reproduces the previously reproduced Hairiness, in particular a hairiness between 2.5 and 7.5 and preferably a hairiness between 3.0 and 7.0, has.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention is in the form of a twisted core thread.
  • the twisted core yarn according to the invention has a core which consists of at least one multifilament core material, this core material being wound with a second yarn component, preferably fibers.
  • This core yarn can then be provided with a twist twist, in which case the twist twist has a twist coefficient ⁇ which varies between 120 and 180.
  • the core yarn according to the invention consists of at least two, preferably up to four core yarn components, each core yarn component being pre-twisted for itself.
  • pre-twist the core yarn components here in such a way that the pre-twist has a twist coefficient ⁇ between 90 and 140.
  • Such pre-twisted core yarn components are then twisted together to form a core yarn, with a twist twist selected for this, the twist coefficient ⁇ of which varies between 120 and 180.
  • Multifile yarn components made of polyester are preferred for the core yarn construction shown above (Polyethylene terephthalate) is selected, the single filament titer of these multifilament soul components varying between 0.6 dtex and 6 dtex, in particular between 1.5 dtex and 4 dtex.
  • the number of filaments of the multifilament yarn component forming the core is between 16 and 300, preferably between 24 and 96, while fibers are selected for the spinning component, the staple length of which is between 15 mm and 120 mm, in particular between 20 mm and 60 mm, the individual fibers have a single fiber titer between 0.6 dtex and 4 dtex, preferably between 0.8 dtex and 2 dtex.
  • a further, particularly suitable construction for the sewing thread according to the invention provides that the sewing thread is designed as a swirled thread, the production of such a thread being described in detail, for example, in EP 0 295 601 B1 mentioned at the beginning.
  • a swirled sewing thread has at least one multifilament core material and at least one multifilament effect material, the swirled thread preferably being twisted with a twist factor ⁇ between 40 and 120, in particular between 50 and 80.
  • a twist factor ⁇ between 40 and 120, in particular between 50 and 80.
  • such a swirled yarn has constituents which are detected by the yarn uniformity tester UT3 and which therefore fall under the term hairiness in the sense of the present invention. These components are about loops and / or loops protruding from the thread of the sewing thread, which may cross themselves and which are usually integrated on both sides of the thread.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention at least 85%, in particular 95%, of the loops formed during swirling are not drawn together in a knot-like manner, so that this ensures that the sewing thread according to the invention also has the previously specified volume.
  • Another embodiment of the intermingled sewing thread according to the invention provides that here the intermingled sewing thread, which has the above-mentioned hairiness, consists of up to four multifilament soul materials and up to four multifilament effect materials.
  • the multifilament core material has an elementary thread number between 20 and 500, preferably between 30 and 150.
  • the filament number of the multifilament effect material corresponds to approximately 30% to 250% of the filament number of the core material.
  • the multifilament effect material has an elementary thread number which corresponds to approximately one third to two and a half times the elementary thread number provided for the multifilament soul material.
  • the titer of the multifilament effect material is about 15% to about 40% of the titer of the multifilament soul material.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention which, as already explained above, is the construction of a fiber thread, a wrapped core thread or a swirled sewing thread can have a thermal shrink at 180 ° C between 0.4 and 5% and / or in water at 98 ° C between 0.2% and 3%. This prevents the seams from pounding or contracting in any other undesirable manner when the finished part is subsequently treated.
  • the thread has a sliding value that is between 90 cN and 250 cN, in particular between 140 cN and 225 cN.
  • the sliding value is determined according to a measuring method, as is explained in detail below in the embodiments of the sewing thread according to the invention.
  • the finished sewing thread has a specific strength which is between 30 cN / tex and 80 cN / tex, in particular between 35 cN / tex and 50 cN / tex , varies.
  • polyester fibers polyamide 6 fibers, polyamide 6.6 fibers and / or cotton fibers are used in particular for this purpose.
  • the desired hairiness or a desired gliding value can be achieved, for example, by varying the pile length of the fibers used for the twisted fiber yarn, the twist coefficient of the pre-twisting or twisting and / or the type and amount of finishing agent applied.
  • a desired hairiness and a desired gliding value can be set by changing the stack length of the winding component, the degree of winding, the type and amount of finishing agent and the twist factor of the twist twist, while in the case of intermingled sewing threads, a desired hairiness and / or a desired one Sliding value can be adjusted by varying the tension ratios during the swirling and / or after the swirling and / or the type and / or the amount of the finishing agent applied.
  • all yarns can also be sewn accordingly in order to set a desired hairiness and a specified gliding value.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention preferably has or consists of polyester multifilaments, polyester being understood in the context of the present application to mean polyethylene terephthalate.
  • a sewing thread thread was spun, which had a fineness as a ready-to-sell thread of Nm 71.2.
  • the thread consisted of two pre-twisted core yarn components, each core yarn component having a multifilament polyester core (74 f 24), which was wound with a polyester staple fiber with a staple length of 38 mm.
  • Each core yarn component was pre-twisted with a twist factor ⁇ of 120 and then twisted to form the sewing thread, the twist factor of the twist being 167.
  • the specific strength of the twisted core yarn described above was 42 cN / tex.
  • An air-entangled polyester sewing thread was produced, which as a ready-to-sell sewing thread had a titer of 291 dtex and an elementary thread count of 64. A method was used for this, as described in EP 0 295 601 B1 is. After the intermingling, the sewing thread was twisted, the twist factor ⁇ for the twisting being 70. The specific strength of the ready-to-sell sewing thread was 38 cN / tex.
  • the hairiness (sh) of the above-mentioned sewing threads was measured on a Uster thread uniformity tester of the type Uster UT3.
  • comparison yarn standard and "LB yarn standard”
  • core yarn standard the comparison yarns mentioned above differed from the yarns according to working examples 1 and 2 in that these standard yarns had identical final strengths, but a spinning component was used in the "core yarn standard", which had a stack length of 24 mm, while the "LB standard yarn” was swirled with another advance of the effect component.
  • Table 1 material Hairiness (h) Embodiment 1 4.35 Embodiment 2 6.3 Core yarn standard 7.9 LB yarn standard 0.8 Furthermore, the components that protrude above 0.5 mm above the thread base of the sewing thread according to embodiment 2 and the LB standard thread were determined by an optical measuring method. The results of this optical measurement, in which the yarn was transported through the measuring device at 300 m / min with a pretension of 40 cN, are shown in Table 2. The measuring device used had a light barrier which was positioned exactly 0.5 mm above the yarn base, so that the components protruding from the yarn base could be measured by pulse counting. material Components / m, distance from the yarn base:> 0.5 mm Embodiment 1 193 LB yarn standard 55
  • a chromed disc brake was used to measure the sliding value. It consists of two tension discs that are pressed together by means of a coil spring. The spring pressure is adjusted with the aid of a test thread, the spring pressure being set so that the test thread shows a sliding value of 180 cN when it is transported between the two tension disks at a take-off speed of 2 m / min becomes.
  • the test thread is a standardized yarn with an average effective strength of dtex 121.5 x 3.
  • Table 3 material Sliding value in cN Embodiment 1 125 Embodiment 2 149 Core yarn standard 275 LB yarn standard 70
  • Table 4 material Sliding value in cN Embodiment 1 125 Embodiment 2 149 Core yarn standard 275 LB yarn standard 70
  • the sewing behavior of the four sewing threads mentioned above was examined. For this purpose, the sewing threads were sewn on an industrial sewing machine with a stitch density of 6,000 stitches / min in a multidirectional direction until a thread break occurred.
  • the results shown in Table 4 represent mean values from 10 measurements / yarn. material Sewing behavior 6,000 stitches / minute m until the thread breaks Embodiment 1 broken off after 2,000 m, no yarn break Embodiment 2 broken off after 2,000 m, no yarn break Core yarn standard after 800 m of yarn break LB yarn standard no perfect seam possible

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)

Claims (21)

  1. Fil à coudre en fibres synthétiques et/ou naturelles, caractérisé en ce que le fil à coudre présente un indice de chevelu, mesuré avec un appareil Uster UT3 de vérification de la régularité de fils, de 2,5 à 7,5.
  2. Fil à coudre selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'il présente un indice de chevelu de 3,0 à 7,0.
  3. Fil à coudre selon les revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que le fil présente une finesse effective du fil de 150 dtex à 4500 dtex.
  4. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le fil est un fil de fibres torsadé ou un fil à âme torsadé.
  5. Fil à coudre selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que le fil est constitué d'au moins deux composants de fil, chaque composant de fil étant pour sa part prétorsadé.
  6. Fil à coudre selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que chaque composant de fil du fil de fibres présente pour le prétorsadage un indice de torsion α de 80 à 130.
  7. Fil à coudre selon les revendications 4 ou 5, caractérisé en ce que le fil de fibres torsadé présente une torsion de torsadage à un indice de torsion α de 80 à 150.
  8. Fil à coudre selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que chacun des composants du fil formant le fil à âme torsadé présente pour le prétorsadage un indice de torsion α de 90 à 140.
  9. Fil à coudre selon la revendication 4 ou la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que le fil à âme torsadé présente une torsion de torsadage à un indice de torsion α de 120 à 180.
  10. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que le fil est un fil prétourbillonné qui comporte au moins un matériau multifilament d'âme et au moins un matériau multifilament d'effet, le fil tourbillonné étant torsadé à un indice de torsion α de 40 à 120, de préférence de 50 à 80, pour former un fil torsadé.
  11. Fil à coudre selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que le fil présente par mètre de 65 à 200 composants de fil qui débordent de plus de 0,5 mm de la base du fil.
  12. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications 10 ou 11, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins 85%, et de préférence 95% des boucles formées lors du tourbillonnage ne sont pas serrées en forme de noeuds.
  13. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications 10 à 12, caractérisé en ce que le fil est constitué de jusqu'à quatre matériaux multifilament d'âme et de jusqu'à quatre matériaux multifilament d'effet.
  14. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications 10 à 13, caractérisé en ce que le matériau multifilament d'âme présente un nombre de fils élémentaires de 20 à 500, et de préférence de 30 à 150.
  15. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications 10 à 14, caractérisé en ce que le fil multifilament d'effet présente un nombre de fils élémentaires qui vaut de 30% à 250% du nombre des fils élémentaires du matériau d'âme.
  16. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications 10 à 15, caractérisé en ce que le matériau d'âme présente un titre de 80 dtex à 1200 dtex, et de préférence de 100 à 600 dtex.
  17. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications 10 à 16, caractérisé en ce que le titre du matériau multifilament d'effet représente entre environ 15% et environ 40% du titre du matériau multifilament d'âme.
  18. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le fil présente un retrait thermique à 180°C de 0,4% à 5% et un retrait à la cuisson dans l'eau (98°C) de 0,2% à 3%.
  19. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le fil présente une résistance spécifique de 30 cN/tex à 80 cN/tex, et en particulier de 35 cN/tex à 50 cN/tex.
  20. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il est constitué de fibres de polyester, de fibres de polyamide 6, de fibres de polyamide 6,6 et/ou de fibres de coton.
  21. Fil à coudre selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le fil présente un coefficient de glissement de 90 cN à 250 cN.
EP93119600A 1992-12-18 1993-12-04 Fil à coudre en fibres synthétiques et/ou naturelles Expired - Lifetime EP0602489B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE4243028 1992-12-18
DE4243028 1992-12-18
DE4324610A DE4324610A1 (de) 1992-12-18 1993-07-22 Nähgarn aus Synthese- und/oder Naturfasern
DE4324610 1993-07-22

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0602489A1 EP0602489A1 (fr) 1994-06-22
EP0602489B1 true EP0602489B1 (fr) 1997-05-07

Family

ID=25921535

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP93119600A Expired - Lifetime EP0602489B1 (fr) 1992-12-18 1993-12-04 Fil à coudre en fibres synthétiques et/ou naturelles

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0602489B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE152786T1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2103053T3 (fr)

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3831700A1 (de) * 1988-09-17 1990-03-22 Amann & Soehne Verfahren zur herstellung eines garnes, insbesondere eines naehgarnes, sowie ein garn
DE4035908C2 (de) * 1990-11-12 1995-05-11 Amann & Soehne Garn, insbesondere Nähgarn, sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Garnes

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2103053T3 (es) 1997-08-16
ATE152786T1 (de) 1997-05-15
EP0602489A1 (fr) 1994-06-22

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