EP0434934B1 - Top-boot with linings of laminate - Google Patents

Abstract

There is proposed a one-piece seamless shoe lining upper comprising a laminate composed of a textile fabric knitted from fully drawn yarns and a layer which is impermeable to liquid water but permeable to water vapour. The upper is obtained by thermoforming the laminate on the last. It is characterised by a uniformly low degree of permanent extension despite the high degree of deformation. The courses of knitted stitches extend diagonally relative to the heel-toe direction.

Description

The invention relates to a shoe lining with a laminate, its manufacture and shoes made therefrom.

"Shoe" means footwear with a solid sole and a closed upper (shaft).

"Lining" means the material on the inside of the shaft. In addition to the laminate, it can also contain one or more additional layers, e.g. Textile and leather. The layers can be more or less connected to one another.

Under "Laminate" there are several. interconnected layers understood. The bond can be full or partial, for example with or without a binder.

From DE-OS 27 37 756 shoe linings are known which consist of a laminate. The laminate can e.g. include a jersey made of polyamide, a microporous membrane made of PTFE and a velor made of polyamide (see table, ltd. No. 6). To produce the shoe lining, individual parts are cut out of the laminate web and then sewn and / or glued together (see EP-A2-0 263 665, column 1, lines 54-61 and EP-A2-0 080 710, in particular Fig 4 and finally EP-A2-0 110 627, example 1). Only with considerable effort (see US Pat. No. 4,599,810, FIGS. 4 and 5 together with FIG. 2) can it be avoided that water does not penetrate at these connection points.

EP-A2-0 263 665 describes one-piece seamless textiles in the form of a shell or a hat insert which consist of a laminate of a water-permeable fabric and a water-impermeable but water-vapor-permeable film made of polytetrafluoroethylene (example 1 and column 3, lines 29-64 ). The deformation ratio for these objects is relatively small. Objects with a large forming ratio are produced by connecting two or more individual pieces (see column 4, lines 14 to 25 and example 3).

The invention seeks to remedy this. Shoes should be made available that are largely impermeable to water but permeable to water vapor. This includes that the individual parts of the shoe such as the upper and sole meet this requirement and also that these individual parts can be securely connected without water being able to penetrate. After all, the manufacture should be simple and cheap.

The solution according to the invention can be found in the patent claims.

"Seamless" means the absence of a connecting line, regardless of whether the two parts to be connected were connected by sewing, welding, gluing or otherwise.

“Layer” is understood to mean a uniform mass lying in a planar extent at a certain height above, below or between others. It can e.g. is a film or the reaction product of a paste.

The water impermeability is determined in accordance with the specifications of GB-PS 2 024 100 using a modified Sutter test apparatus and according to the "Mulli Burst Test". With the Sutter method, the water impermeability is assessed visually. A water pressure corresponding to a water column of 25 cm is applied to the laminate for 20 minutes. The Mullin assessment is also visual. A certain pressure is created in 10 seconds and this pressure is then maintained for 30 seconds. Withstanding an overpressure of approximately 213 kPa (2.1 atm) is believed to be acceptable.

According to ASTM E 96-66 (method B), the water vapor permeability should be at least 1000, preferably at least 2000 g / m 2 day at 30 ° C. and 60% relative atmospheric humidity.

"Fully drawn yarns" are yarns made from single filaments that do not contain a drawing zone in the force / elongation diagram.

"Diagonal" is to be understood as oblique, that is to say neither parallel nor vertical.

"Elongation" is to be understood in claim 8 as the change in length relating to the initial length 24 hours after the shaping and storage under a standard climate.

"Forming ratio" means the percentage ratio of the line lengths above the last to below the last, reduced by 100.

The reshaping of the flat laminate to the one-piece shoe lining under certain conditions contributed decisively to the solution according to the invention, so that, despite the large shaping ratio on the last, the water impermeability is maintained since there are no holes in the laminate.

und die kurzkettigen Estereinheiten der Formel

entsprechen, worin G ein zweiwertiger Rest ist, der durch Entfernung von endständigen Hydroxylgruppen mindestens eines langkettigen Glycols entsteht, das ein Molekulargewicht im Bereich von 800 bis 6000 und ein Atomverhältnis von Kohlenstoff zu Sauerstoff im Bereich von 2,0 bis 4,3 besitzt, wobei mindestens 70 Gew.-% des langkettigen Glycols ein Kohlenstoff:Sauerstoff-Verhältnis im Bereich von 2,0 bis 2,7 aufweisen, R ein zweiwertiger Rest ist, der durch Entfernung von Carboxylgruppen mindestens einer Dicarbonsäure mit einem Molekulargewicht von weniger als 300 entsteht, und D ein zweiwertiger Rest ist, welcher durch Entfernung von Hydroxylgruppen mindestens eines Diols entsteht, das ein Molekulargewicht von weniger als 250 besitzt, wobei mindestens 80% der verwendeten Dicarbonsäure aus Terephthalatsäure oder einem esterbildenden Äquivalent hiervon und mindestens 80 Mol% des niedermolekularen Diols aus 1,4-Butandiol oder einem esterbildenden Äquivalent hiervon bestehen, wobei die Summe der Molprozente der Dicarbonsäure, die nicht Terephthalsäure oder deren esterbildendes Äquivalent ist, und des niedermolekularen Diols, das nicht, 1,4-Butandiol oder dessen esterbildendes Äquivalent ist, nicht größer als 20 ist und die kurzkettigen Estereinheiten 40 - 85 Gew.-%, insbesondere 50 bis 75 Gew.-%. des Copolyätheresters bilden.Laminates with foils made of thermoplastic elastomers are particularly suitable for this, in view of the particularly low processing shrinkage, especially foils made of a copolyether ester, which consists of a large number of recurring intralinear long-chain ester units and short-chain ester units, which statistically end-to-end Ester bridges are connected, the long-chain ester units of the formula

and the short chain ester units of the formula

in which G is a divalent radical which is formed by removing terminal hydroxyl groups of at least one long-chain glycol which has a molecular weight in the range from 800 to 6000 and an atomic ratio of carbon to oxygen in the range from 2.0 to 4.3, where at least 70% by weight of the long-chain glycol has a carbon: oxygen ratio in the range from 2.0 to 2.7, R is a divalent radical which is formed by removing carboxyl groups of at least one dicarboxylic acid with a molecular weight of less than 300, and D is a divalent radical which is formed by removal of hydroxyl groups of at least one diol which has a molecular weight of less than 250, at least 80% of the dicarboxylic acid used being from terephthalic acid or an ester-forming equivalent thereof and at least 80 mol% of the low molecular weight diol from 1 , 4-butanediol or an ester-forming equivalent thereof, where d The sum of the molar percentages of the dicarboxylic acid which is not terephthalic acid or its ester-forming equivalent and the low molecular weight diol which is not 1,4-butanediol or its ester-forming equivalent is not greater than 20 and the short-chain ester units are 40-85% by weight. %, in particular 50 to 75 wt .-%. form the copolyetherester.

These foils have a thickness of 5 to 50 »m, in particular 10 to 25» m. Their manufacture is e.g. in EP-A-0 111 360.

At least one further layer of the laminate is a stretchable textile, as is usually the case with knitted fabrics. the case is. Above all, it should enable good processing of the film or layer. If the elongation at break of the knitted fabric at 20 ° C in one direction is below the deformation ratio of the last and in the other above, the last must be aligned with the laminate web so that the heel / toe direction and the direction of the rows of stitches are arranged diagonally.

The deformation ratio is preferably at least 130, in particular at least 160%.

It is advantageous if the heel / toe direction forms an angle of 65 to 25 ° with the row of stitches.

A particularly low and even permanent elongation of the laminate - measured by the number of stitch and crochet rows per 1 cm - is obtained when using a knitted fabric. It is less than 60%, although the deformation ratio is higher than 130%. The elongations differ by less than 50%, in particular by less than 30%, if you compare individual parts of the shoe lining with each other.

The permanent elongation results from the construction shrinkage of the textile and not from the individual filaments, as can be the case with undrawn or partially drawn filaments.

The knitted fabric and the film can be glued to one another in a punctiform or flat manner. Adhesives based on polyurethane or acrylate or hot melt adhesives based on, for example, copolyesters or polyurethanes are suitable.

The two-layer laminate can be connected to further layers, e.g. with a textile that later makes up the outermost inner layer in the finished shoe. However, it is preferred to provide the laminate with activatable adhesive, adhesive bonding only occurring at elevated temperature. Then another layer can be glued on later, e.g. when reshaping the laminate or when passing the twisted shoes on the last through a heat tunnel. In this case too, punctiform bonding is preferred. Thermoplastic polymers are suitable, e.g. Copolyesters or copolyamides.

The shoe lining made of a laminate consisting only of a knitted fabric and a film can also be processed as a loosely suspended intermediate lining between the outer material and the outermost inner layer.

The shaping of the laminate into the shoe lining takes place at 40 to 180 ° C. in 5 to 30 seconds, preferably between 60 and 150 ° C. in 15 seconds. The exact conditions depend on on the polymer of the film.

It is important that the laminate is heated to these temperatures on an area of approximately 25 to 45 cm in width and 30 to 50 cm in length before it is drawn onto the temperature-controlled strips with a vacuum.

The processing shrinkage (i.e. the difference in dimensions between the last and the shoe lining) is particularly small, especially when using foils made of polyether ester. It is at most 10%.

Due to the low processing shrinkage, especially in the gusset area, the connection of the upper to the sole is facilitated by the relatively low formation of folds.

• Dank seiner Nahtlosigkeit ist er sicher wasserundurchlässig.
• Die Schwindung bei der Herstellung ist mit höchstens 10% sehr gering. Diese formgetreue Umformung erleichtert die Weiterverarbeitung. Insbesondere wird ein Zwickeinschlag ausgebildet, so daß das Zwicken vereinfacht wird und sich die Gefahr verringert, daß Wasser durch die Falten in den Schuh eindringt.
• Die Folie ist relativ dünn, daher ist die Wasserdampfdurchlässigkeit besonders groß.
• Die bleibende Verdehnung des Laminats bei der thermischen Verformung ist sowohl parallel als auch senkrecht zur Maschenrichtung in den verschiedenen Bereichen des Schaftes gleichmäßig besonders bei diagonaler Anordnung der Maschenrichtung zur Fersen/Spitzen-Richtung. Aufgrund der gleichmäßigen Umformung ist die Strapazierfähigkeit des Laminats im Schaft besonders hoch.
• Auch bei der Weiterverarbeitung in Gegenwart von hohen Temperaturen und/oder Wasserdampf, z.B. beim Durchlaufen des Fixierkanals gibt es keine Schwierigkeiten, z.B. durch Schrumpf oder Materialablösung.
• Seine Herstellung ist einfach.

The shoe lining according to the invention is characterized by the following positive effects:

• Thanks to its seamlessness, it is certainly impermeable to water.
• The shrinkage during production is very low at a maximum of 10%. This true-to-shape forming facilitates further processing. In particular, a lasting wedge is formed so that the pinching is simplified and the risk of water penetrating through the folds into the shoe is reduced.
• The film is relatively thin, so the water vapor permeability is particularly high.
• The permanent expansion of the laminate during the thermal deformation is both parallel and perpendicular to the mesh direction in the different areas of the shaft, especially when the mesh direction is arranged diagonally to the heel / toe direction. Due to the uniform shaping, the durability of the laminate in the shaft is particularly high.
• There is also no difficulty in further processing in the presence of high temperatures and / or water vapor, for example when passing through the fixing channel, for example due to shrinkage or material detachment.
• Its manufacture is simple.

The invention can be applied to other laminate moldings with a deformation ratio of at least 130% in one direction.

• 1. Aus der Maschenware und der Folie wird das Laminat hergestellt.
• 2. Das Laminat wird auf dem Leisten zum Zwischenfutterschaft umgeformt.
• 3. Durch Zusammenfügen und Nähen des Obermaterial-Schaftes, des Zwischenfutter-Schaftes und des Innenfutter-Schaftes erhält man den Schuh-Schaft.
• 4. Wenn man den Schuh-Schaft über den Leisten zieht, den Zwickeinschlag umschlägt und ihn mit der Brandsohle verklebt, erhält man den gezwickten Schuh. Er kann in einem Hitzekanal mit Dampf behandelt werden, um alle Schichten miteinander zu verbinden.
• 5. Bringt man an den gezwickten Schuh die Laufsohle an, so erhält man schließlich den Schuh.

In general, the shoes according to the invention are essentially produced in the following stages:

• 1. The laminate is made from the knitted fabric and the film.
• 2. The laminate is formed on the last to the intermediate lining.
• 3. The shoe shaft is obtained by joining and sewing the upper material shaft, the intermediate lining shaft and the inner lining shaft.
• 4. If you pull the upper of the shoe over the last, turn the gusset and glue it to the insole, you get the gusseted shoe. It can be steamed in a heat tunnel to bond all layers together.
• 5. If you attach the outsole to the pinched shoe, you finally get the shoe.

The invention is illustrated by the following example:

Production of the laminate

A knitted fabric and a layer in the form of a film were glued together. The knitwear is characterized by: single jersey, grammage 50 - 60 g / cm², made of fully stretched textured polyester filament yarn DIOLEN ^R with the titer 76 dtex f 24. The film is the polyetherester membrane SYMPATEX ^R with a thickness of 25 »m. A 10 g / m² polyurethane adhesive dissolved in ethyl acetate is applied to the membrane in a punctiform manner, the solvent is evaporated at 40 ° C. and then calendered at a roller temperature of approx. 80 ° C. The elongation at break of the knitwear was 66% lengthways, 290% crossways and 92% diagonally (45 °).

Manufacture of the shoe lining

The laminate was deformed on a thermoforming machine over a shoe last. The thermoforming machine had a 40 x 50 cm stenter. A last for hiking shoes of size 7½ was taken. The last was arranged diagonally (45 °) to the longitudinal direction of the knitwear.

Method:

• 1. Clamp the laminate in the clamping frame.
• 2. Heating the laminate with an overheating of 350 ° C set temperature to 120 ° C after 10 sec.
• 3. The last was pressed into the laminate with the lifting device, whereby it preformed.
• 4. The laminate was pulled on the strips with vacuum for 3 seconds.
• 5. It is then cooled with a blower in 7 seconds.
• 6. The formed laminate was removed from the last and the protruding parts were removed.

Claims (11)

1. Shoe upper lining with a laminate containing a layer in the form of a textile mesh fabric made from yarn together with a layer which is impermeable to water but permeable to water vapour, characterised in that the shoe upper lining is in one piece and seamless and the yarns are fully drawn.
2. Shoe upper lining according to claim 1, characterised in that the shoe lining is an interlining.
3. Shoe upper lining according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the mesh fabric is a knitted fabric, in particular jersey.
4. Shoe upper lining according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterised in that the yarn is a filament yarn made from polyester, polyamide or polypropylene, in particular a textured polyester yarn.
5. Shoe upper lining according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the layer which is impermeable to water but permeable to water vapour is a film made from polyurethane, polyolefin or a copolyetherester, wherein the latter is preferred.
6. Shoe upper lining according to at least one of the preceding claims with a forming ratio of at least 130%, in particular at least 160%.
7. Shoe upper lining according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the heel/toe direction is arranged diagonally in relation to the stitch row, particularly if the elongation at break of the laminate at 20°C is less than the forming ratio.
8. Shoe upper lining according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the heel/toe direction forms an angle relative to the stitch row such that both the stitch rows and the stitch wales are extended by less than 60%, in particular by less than 40%.
9. Shoe upper lining according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the heel/toe direction forms an angle of 65° to 25° relative to the stitch row.
10. Production of the shoe upper lining according to at least one of the preceding claims by forming the laminate at between 40 and 180°C in 5-30 seconds, preferably at between 60 and 150°C in 15 seconds.
11. Shoes with a shoe upper lining according to at least one of the preceding claims.