EP0340758A2 - Milled silk fabric (silk felt), method for making it and composition for putting the method into effect - Google Patents

Abstract

What is described is a milled silk fabric (silk felt) which has an intermediate layer (1) of natural hair and covering layers (2) of silk batting. Also described is a method for producing this milled silk fabric, in which an intermediate layer of natural hair is milled together with two covering layers of silk batting. <??>The textile material according to the invention is characterised by a high heat and moisture control and by a low weight. <IMAGE>

Description

The invention relates to a textile material based on silk, in which the silk is present in the tumbled (felted) state.

So far it has not been possible to felt or walk silk, because in contrast to natural wool or natural hair, the silk thread has a smooth surface.

The usual walk or felt treatment for textile materials based on natural hair is based on the fact that the rough wool hairs are chained together and clawed together. Naturally, such a treatment with the smooth silk thread is not possible.

Natural silk is considered the finest textile raw material and has received increasing attention especially recently, since silk is made from pure natural fiber and has valuable properties, such as low weight, favorable heat and moisture regulation, skin-friendly nature and the like.

Among other things, textile felt materials have the advantage that they do not have a regular thread course, so that the thread course need not be taken into account during processing. Furthermore, such textile materials are relatively inexpensive in terms of heat and moisture regulation due to their bulky structure.

The object of the invention is to create a textile material in which the favorable properties of silk that are already present are combined with the advantageous structure and the resulting properties of a fulling material (felt).

The subject matter of the invention is a silk whale fabric (silk felt) which has an intermediate layer of natural hair and two top layers of silk wadding.

The wool is therefore only a tool that is used to hold the silk threads in the felt by chaining and clawing. The wool content is kept as low as possible, whereby higher wool content is required to ensure a higher tear resistance, since this contributes to a more intensive binding of the silk threads.

The aforementioned, sandwich-like silk wool fabric can also be arranged several times one above the other, i.e. it has several intermediate layers of natural hair and a corresponding number of top layers made of cotton wool.

The intermediate layer made of natural hair is preferably made of non-spun wool, in particular a comb or a padded wool. The percentage by weight of natural hair is 3 to 30% by weight, depending on the quality and type and the thickness of the desired felt, in particular 10 to 25% by weight. In particular, if high-quality cashmere wool is used as an aid, the foreign share can be reduced to about 5% or less. There is usually a tendency to keep the wool content as low as possible, since the wool threads only serve as binders to ensure the cohesion of the silk wool.

The invention further relates to a process for the production of the aforementioned silk wool, which is characterized in that an intermediate layer (1) made of natural hair is rolled together with two cover layers made of cotton wool.

• (a) einen Schichtstoff aus einer dünnen Zwischenlage aus unversponnenem Naturhaar und zwei Decklagen aus gleichmässigem Vlies aus Seidenwatte herstellt,
• (b) den Schichtstoff mit einer Tränkflüssigkeit mit einem Gehalt an Schmierseife, Wollfett und einem Emulgiermit­tel tränkt,
• (c) den getränkten Schichtstoff zwischen feingenoppten Folien durch regellose Streichbewegungen unter leichtem Druck walkt bzw. filzt,
• (d) den Schichtstoff mitsamt den Folien einrollt und unter gleichmässigem Ausstreichen die Tränkflüssigkeit nach aussen ausdrängt,
• (e) die Rolle einer Knet- und Streichbehandlung unterzieht,
• (f) die Rolle auswickelt, den erhaltenen Schichtstoff in eine grossgenoppte Folie einrollt und einem weiteren Walk- bzw. Filzvorgang gemäss Stufen (d) und (e) unter­zieht und
• (g) die Rolle auswickelt und den erhaltenen Schichtstoff in ein saugfähiges Tuch einwickelt, die erhaltene Rolle in gleichmässigen Abständen abbindet und dann in einer Waschmaschine spült und schleudert.

The method according to the invention is preferably carried out by

• (a) produces a laminate from a thin intermediate layer of unspun natural hair and two top layers from uniform fleece made of cotton wool,
• (b) impregnating the laminate with an impregnating liquid containing lubricating soap, wool grease and an emulsifier,
• (c) rolling or felting the impregnated laminate between finely napped foils by means of random brushing movements under slight pressure,
• (d) rolls in the laminate together with the foils and, with uniform spreading, expels the impregnating liquid to the outside,
• (e) undergoes the role of kneading and brushing,
• (f) unwraps the roll, rolls the laminate obtained into a large-nubbed film and undergoes a further flexing or felting process according to steps (d) and (e) and
• (g) unwraps the roll and wraps the resulting laminate in an absorbent cloth, sets the obtained roll at regular intervals, and then rinses and spins in a washing machine.

The invention is explained in more detail below with reference to the drawing.

The drawing shows a cross section through a sandwich-like silk whale fabric according to the invention, the intermediate layer made of natural hair having the reference number 1 and the cover layers made of cotton wool having the reference number 2.

The preferred silk material for the top layer is silk wadding (oblong), flock silk or roving (sliver), e.g. from the mulberry caterpillar, the oak caterpillar or other silkworms.

Unspun wool is preferably used as natural hair for the liner, e.g. Yak wool, cashmere, camel hair wool, alpaca wool, or simple sheep wool. Mohair wool (from the Angora goat) is unsuitable because of its smooth fiber texture.

The essence of the method according to the invention is that the threads of the non-walkable cotton wool are caught by the scale-like structure of the wool during the walking process and get entangled therein. The more intensely the pressing movements are carried out, the stronger the matting becomes.

An aqueous mixture containing lubricating soap, wool grease (lanolin) and an emulsifier is preferably used as the impregnating liquid. Emulsifying cetylstearyl alcohol has proven particularly useful as an emulsifier. The impregnating liquid is preferably produced by dissolving soft soap in hot water and then mixing in a mixture of wool fat and emulsifier. The water is preferably soft water, ie it has a relatively low calcium content. You can use boiled water or deionized water, for example. Before use, the soaking liquid must be cooled to 60 ° C or below, the level of the temperature depending on how the wool can withstand the temperature.

It is particularly expedient to provide a premix of equal parts by weight of wool fat and emulsifying cetylstearyl alcohol in water for the preparation of the impregnation liquid. 50-300 g of wool fat and emulsifying cetylstearyl alcohol are preferably mixed with 1 liter of water. For the preparation of the soaking liquid, about 1 tablespoon of this premix (lotion) is then added to 1 liter of water together with about 2 tablespoons of lubricating soap and boiled briefly to ensure an optimal solution of the lubricating soap.

A preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for producing a thin felt using cashmere wool as an intermediate layer is described in more detail below. Of course, felts can also be produced using other types of wool, whereby the material thicknesses can vary depending on the materials used and the desired properties.

First, a base with fine knobs is provided as a work surface. For this purpose, for example, a bubble wrap, as is known for packaging purposes, is suitable. The nub diameter is up to about 8 mm. (A washboard, for example, which was previously used for washing clothes, is also suitable as a rigid underlay.) Plucked silk wadding (oblong) into a thin fleece is placed on the fine nap film. It is important to ensure that the fleece is as uniform as possible in thickness and that there are no nests. Unspun cashmere wool is then plucked into small, thin fuzz and scaled or placed on the silk fleece like a roof tile. The wool covering should be uniform and covering the entire area, since the wool creates the binding of the silk threads. A layer of plucked silk fleece is again placed on the wool intermediate layer. The wool content is 5% of the total laminate.

Possibly. one or more additional layers of wool and a corresponding number of additional cover layers made of silk fleece can be applied.

A soaking liquid which has been produced by mixing approx. 40 g of lubricating soap, approx. 5 g lanolin and approx. 5 g emulsifying cetylstearyl alcohol with 1 liter of hot, boiled water is sprayed onto the laminate at a temperature of at most 60 ° C that there is a saturated impregnation of the laminate. With gentle pressure movements, the air is slowly pressed out of the tissue. The pressed felt material saturated with lye is subjected to irregular stroking movements under slight pressure, the stroking movements initially moving from the inside out and then crisscrossing and also circular. Too high a pressure should not be applied to allow the fibers to slide into each other. The fibers should perform a kind of swimming movement. During the coating treatment, wool and silk threads slide into each other and the fibers form a kind of warp connection (zipper principle). The impregnating liquid serves in particular as a lubricant. Due to the different surface structure (smooth silk, rough wool) and due to the rubbing and massage movements, which are supported by the nubby underlay, the silk threads are captured and tangled by the wool with its scale structure. The more intensive the "silk massage" is carried out, the stronger the matting becomes.

The felt material, which has already been set to some extent, is then turned over and the same processing is carried out by the other from the side. Since the material should always be soaked with the soaking liquid, liquid may need to be added.

At the end of this process, another small-nubbed film is put on and the coating movements are repeated.

Finally, the felt is rolled between the foils while simultaneously spreading outwards in order to force the liquid out. The roll is then alternately kneaded and coated. This further strengthens the bond between silk and wool fibers.

A further increase in stability can be achieved by placing the felt treated in the above manner on a large-nubbed film (nub diameter up to about 20 mm), wrapping it and subjecting it again to the kneading and spreading treatment described above.

Finally the impregnation liquid is removed from the felt obtained. Here, the felt is preferably wrapped in an absorbent textile material and subjected to a rinsing treatment (preferably at normal temperature) in a washing machine. This further deepens the felting process. Finally the roll is thrown. It is preferably tied in small sections, so that no beads or knobs arise from displacement when spinning.

After unwrapping, the silk felt or silk wool fabric is air dried.

The felt can be dyed in any way like normal silk fabric. It is possible to carry out a coloring already during the impregnation process by making the impregnation liquid a batik or silk color.

One advantage of silk felt is that, unlike conventional fabrics, you don't have to take the course of the thread into account. It is possible to put the cuts together in a puzzle. The felt can be punched. A large-scale recycling of smaller parts of waste is also possible.

The silk felt is characterized by an extraordinarily high temperature regulation. It also shows a high level of moisture absorption without feeling wet. Finally, the extremely low weight of the textile material according to the invention is remarkable.

The silk wool fabric according to the invention is suitable, for example, for the production of jackets, coats, mattress pads, blankets (because of the low weight and the optimal temperature regulation, especially for people suffering from rheumatism and gout), shoes, gloves, insoles, protective covers, lining materials (especially for winter clothing) and hats.

Claims (10)

1.Walk silk fabric (silk felt) containing an intermediate layer (1) made of natural hair and top layers (2) made of cotton wool. 2. silk whale fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that a plurality of intermediate layers and a plurality of cover layers are provided one above the other. 3. silk whale according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the intermediate layer makes up 3 to 30 wt .-% of the whale. 4. silk wool according to claim 3, characterized in that the intermediate layer makes up 5 to 20 wt .-% of the whale. 5. A process for the production of silk wool according to claim 1, characterized in that an intermediate layer (1) made of natural hair with two outer layers (2) of cotton wool is rolled together or felted together. 6. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that one (a) produces a laminate from a thin intermediate layer of unspun natural hair and two top layers from a uniform fleece of cotton wool, (b) impregnating the laminate with an impregnating liquid containing lubricating soap, wool grease and an emulsifier, (c) rolling or felting the impregnated laminate between finely napped foils by means of random brushing movements under slight pressure, (d) rolls in the laminate together with the foils and, with uniform spreading, expels the impregnating liquid to the outside, (e) undergoes the role of kneading and brushing, (f) unwraps the roll, rolls the laminate obtained into a large-nubbed film and undergoes a further flexing or felting process according to steps (d) and (e) and (g) unwraps the roll and wraps the resulting laminate in an absorbent cloth, sets the obtained roll at regular intervals, and then rinses and spins in a washing machine. 7. The method according to claim 6, characterized in that the emulsifying agent used is emulsifying cetylstearyl alcohol. 8. The method according to claim 6, characterized in that an impregnating liquid is used which contains 10 to 100 g of lubricating soap, 1 to 20 g of wool fat and 1 to 20 g of emulsifying cetylstearyl alcohol per 1 liter of water. 9. The method according to claim 8, characterized in that the impregnating liquid is applied to the laminate at a temperature of 50 to 60 ° C. 10. A composition for use in the method according to any one of claims 5 to 9, containing wool fat and emulsifying cetylstearyl alcohol.

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