JP5060318B2 - Method for producing clothing material containing felt parts - Google Patents
Method for producing clothing material containing felt parts Download PDFInfo
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- JP5060318B2 JP5060318B2 JP2008007762A JP2008007762A JP5060318B2 JP 5060318 B2 JP5060318 B2 JP 5060318B2 JP 2008007762 A JP2008007762 A JP 2008007762A JP 2008007762 A JP2008007762 A JP 2008007762A JP 5060318 B2 JP5060318 B2 JP 5060318B2
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- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims description 83
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 15
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 60
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 41
- 238000004898 kneading Methods 0.000 claims description 37
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 claims description 35
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 claims description 35
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 claims description 35
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 claims description 35
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 claims description 35
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 34
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000010985 leather Substances 0.000 description 20
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 19
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 14
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 14
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 13
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- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 9
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 8
- 210000004709 eyebrow Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000012780 transparent material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 5
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000002649 leather substitute Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 229920003002 synthetic resin Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000000057 synthetic resin Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 description 3
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008602 contraction Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000003746 feather Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 241000510164 Cumberlandia monodonta Species 0.000 description 1
- JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl urethane Chemical compound CCOC(N)=O JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000282320 Panthera leo Species 0.000 description 1
- 241001416177 Vicugna pacos Species 0.000 description 1
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- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000018044 dehydration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 208000002925 dental caries Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006870 function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000003128 head Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000010030 laminating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003475 lamination Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 description 1
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Landscapes
- Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、一般的な家庭用洗濯機で洗うことが可能であると共に、異素材同士を接合する際に縫糸や接着剤を使用しないため、縫い目がなく、省資源であり、環境に優しく、しかも洒落た風合いを有するフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材の容易な製造方法に関する。 Since the present invention can be washed with a general household washing machine and does not use a sewing thread or an adhesive when joining different materials, there is no seam, resource saving, and environmental friendliness, Moreover, the present invention relates to a method for easily manufacturing a clothing material including a felt-like portion having a stylish texture.
フェルトとは、主として羊毛や他の獣毛などの毛繊維を原料とし（以下、この原料となる毛繊維を「原毛」と言う）、この原毛に熱と水分を含ませ大きな圧力により時間をかけて揉み固めた不織布のことである（以下、このように原毛を縮絨させフェルト化することを「捏ねる」とも言う）。
フェルトは、たたんでも元に戻る記憶形状を有し、多少の雨をはじく等の利点から、コート、帽子、バッグ、各種敷物（シート）などに幅広く使用されている。
Felt is mainly made of wool and other animal hair (hereinafter, this raw fiber is referred to as “primary hair”). This is a non-woven fabric that has been squeezed and hardened (hereinafter referred to as “kneading”).
Felts have a memory shape that returns to their original shape even when folded, and are widely used in coats, hats, bags, various rugs (sheets) and the like because of the advantage of repelling some rain.
従来、このようなフェルトと該フェルトとは異なる素材（以下、このフェルト（原毛）とは異なる素材を「異素材」とも言う）とを組み合わせた製品では、例えば、（α）異素材がレースなどの場合には、糸によるフェルトと異素材との縫合、（β）異素材がまゆ玉やビーズなどの場合には、接着剤によるフェルトへの貼着や、これらまゆ玉等をレース等で覆いレースを糸で縫合する等が行われてきた。
また、それら異素材同士の接合（例えば、レースとレース（模様や素材が異なるレース同士、あるいはこれらが同じレース同士）、レースとまゆ玉など）においても、当然、糸や接着剤による縫合や貼着によるものが主流である。
Conventionally, in a product combining such felt and a material different from the felt (hereinafter, a material different from the felt (raw wool) is also referred to as “different material”), for example, (α) the different material is a lace, etc. In the case of, stitching felt with yarn and different materials, (β) When the different materials are eyebrows and beads, stick them to the felt with adhesive or cover these eyebrows with lace etc. The lace has been sutured with a thread.
In addition, when joining different materials (for example, lace and lace (laces with different patterns or materials, or laces with the same race), lace and eyebrows, etc.) The mainstream is clothes.
しかし、フェルトと異素材（異素材と異素材）との接合に糸や接着剤を用いた製品は、当然ながら縫合（または貼着）の手間と糸（または接着剤）のコストがかかるうえ、家庭用洗濯機では洗うことができない等、製品購入後の取扱いに配慮を要することが多く、また近年では接着剤の使用そのものが環境問題につながっている。 However, products that use yarn and adhesive to join felt and different materials (different materials and different materials) naturally require labor for stitching (or sticking) and cost of yarn (or adhesive). In many cases, it is necessary to pay attention to handling after purchasing a product, for example, it cannot be washed in a home washing machine. In recent years, the use of an adhesive has led to environmental problems.
本発明は、以上の諸点を考慮し、一般的な家庭用洗濯機で洗うことが可能であると共に、異素材同士（フェルトと異素材、あるいは異素材と異素材）を接合する際に縫糸や接着剤を使用しないため、縫い目や接着剤痕（跡）がなく、デザインの豊富化を図ることができるのみならず、省資源であり、かつ環境に優しい、洒落た風合いを有するフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材を容易に製造する方法を提供することを課題とする。 In consideration of the above points, the present invention can be washed with a general household washing machine, and when joining different materials (felt and different materials, or different materials and different materials), Since no adhesive is used, there are no seams or adhesive marks (traces), and not only can the design be enriched, but also a resource-saving felt-friendly felt-like part that is environmentally friendly. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for easily manufacturing a clothing material including the same.
上記の課題を解決するために、本発明者は、縫糸や接着剤を使用せずに、異素材同士を接合する方法について種々検討を行ったところ、まず、フェルト化される前の原毛と、異素材の微細繊維とを捏ねることで絡ませフェルト質部分を形成することで接合が可能となることを見出した。
また、例えば、ビーズなどのように異素材自体に原毛と絡む微細繊維が存在しない場合には、この異素材（の接合部となる箇所など）を真綿や原毛などで覆うことで、その真綿や原毛などと、この上に載置した原毛とを、共に捏ね絡ませることで接合が可能となることを見出した。
しかも、フェルト質部分を含むことで、麻や木綿などには無い成型作用を付与することができるので、帽子やバッグなどを成型する際の縫製作業や貼着作業を省くことができる。
In order to solve the above problems, the present inventor conducted various studies on methods for joining different materials without using a sewing thread and an adhesive.First, the raw hair before being felted, It was found that joining is possible by twisting together fine fibers of different materials to form a felt-like part.
In addition, for example, when there is no fine fiber entangled with the raw hair, such as beads, by covering the different material (such as the joint portion) with the raw cotton or the raw wool, It has been found that joining can be achieved by twisting together raw wool and the raw hair placed thereon.
In addition, by including the felt part, it is possible to impart a molding action that is not found in hemp or cotton, so that it is possible to omit the sewing work and the sticking work when molding a hat, a bag, or the like.
次に、このような知見の下で、フェルトの原料である原毛を捏ねる際には、高温下であるほど、フェルト質部分の形成が促進されることに着目し、捏ねるステップにおける（ア）温度と（イ）圧力とを最適なものにすることが、原毛と異素材（異素材と異素材）とを接合するのに好ましい条件であることをも見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。 Next, when kneading the raw wool that is the raw material of felt under such knowledge, paying attention to the fact that the formation of the felt-like part is promoted at higher temperatures, and (a) temperature in the kneading step (A) Optimizing the pressure was also found to be a preferable condition for joining raw hair and different materials (different materials and different materials), and the present invention was completed.
すなわち、本発明は、原毛を積層し、界面活性剤を含む７０〜１００℃の湯をかけ、原毛を捏ねてフェルト質部分を形成し、該界面活性剤を洗い流し、脱水・乾燥することを特徴とするフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材の製造方法を要旨とする。
このとき、原毛を捏ねるステップにおいて、該原毛とは異なる素材と共に捏ねることもでき、また、捏ねる圧力が１０〜５０ｋｇ／ｍ2であることが好ましい。
That is, the present invention is characterized by laminating raw hair, applying hot water of 70 to 100 ° C. containing a surfactant, kneading the raw hair to form a felt part, washing away the surfactant, dehydrating and drying. The gist of the method for producing a clothing material including a felt-like portion is as follows.
At this time, in the step of kneading the raw hair, it can be kneaded with a material different from the raw hair, and the kneading pressure is preferably 10 to 50 kg / m 2 .
さらに、本発明は、異素材同士の接合において、互いの接合部となる端縁の繊維をほぐす（解繊する）か、もしくは、互いの接合部となる端縁、あるいは異素材全体を真綿（ｓｉｌｋ）、木綿（ｃｏｔｔｏｎ）、麻（ｌｉｎｅｎ）又は原毛で覆い、該接合部に、あるいは真綿、木綿、麻又は原毛で覆われた異素材全体に、原毛を載置し、界面活性剤を含む７０〜１００℃の湯をかけ、原毛と、各端縁のほぐした繊維、若しくは真綿、木綿、麻又は原毛とを、捏ねてフェルト質部分を形成し、該界面活性剤を洗い流し、脱水・乾燥することを特徴とするフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材の製造方法を要旨とする。
このとき、原毛と、各端縁の解繊部分、若しくは真綿、木綿、麻又は原毛とを捏ねるステップにおいて、捏ねる圧力が１０〜５０ｋｇ／ｍ2であることが好ましい。
なお、上記の「真綿、木綿、麻又は原毛」は、繊維状のものをそのまま使用してもよいし、これらから得られるオーガンジー、その他の織布、編布、不織布であって、一方の面側から他方の面側に在るものを視認することができる所謂「透き通った素材」であってもよく、またこれらで「覆う」は、これらで包み込んでもよいし、サンドイッチ状に挟持したり、その他各種の態様であってもよい。
Further, in the present invention, in joining different materials, the fibers at the edge serving as a joint part are loosened (disentangled), or the edge serving as a joint part between each other, or the whole of the different material as a whole cotton ( covered with silk, cotton, hemp (linen) or raw wool and placed on the joint, or on the whole different material covered with cotton, cotton, hemp or raw hair, and contains surfactant Apply hot water at 70 to 100 ° C., knead raw wool and loosened fibers at each end, or cotton, cotton, hemp or raw wool to form a felt part, wash away the surfactant, dehydrate and dry The gist of the present invention is a method for producing a clothing material including a felt-like portion.
At this time, it is preferable that the kneading pressure is 10 to 50 kg / m 2 in the step of kneading the raw hair and the defibrated portion of each edge, or the cotton, cotton, hemp or the raw hair.
In addition, said "male cotton, cotton, linen, or raw wool" may use a fibrous thing as it is, and it is organdy obtained from these, other woven fabric, knitted fabric, a nonwoven fabric, Comprising: One side It may be a so-called “clear material” that can visually recognize what is on the other side from the side, and these “cover” may be wrapped in these, sandwiched in a sandwich shape, Various other modes may be used.
本発明における原毛は、捏ねることにより縮絨しフェルト質部分が形成されるものであれば、特に限定されないが、例えば、羊毛、カシミヤ、アルパカ、アンゴラなどが挙げられ、中でも、コストや入手の容易さ等から羊毛が好ましい。
羊毛としては、“メリノ”、“フランス”、“コリデール”など一般に市販されているものをそのまま用いることができ、いずれかを単独であるいは適宜の組み合わせによる２種以上を混合して使用してもよい。
また、染色した原毛を用いることもでき、異なる色の原毛を組み合わせてもよい。
The raw hair in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is crimped and a felt part is formed by kneading, and examples thereof include wool, cashmere, alpaca, angola, etc. Among them, cost and availability are easy. For this reason, wool is preferable.
As the wool, commercially available products such as “Merino”, “France”, and “Coridale” can be used as they are, and any one of them can be used alone or in combination of two or more in an appropriate combination. Good.
Moreover, the dyed raw hair can also be used and you may combine the raw hair of a different color.
本発明の方法では、まず、このような原毛をシート状にし（具体的には、原毛の塊を手や適宜の手段により引き延ばしてシート状にし）、該シートの複数枚を作業台上に積層する。
このとき、作業台上には合成樹脂製の型紙などを敷いたり、あるいは作業台自体を、本発明による衣料素材を使用しての製品（例えば、帽子・手袋・マフラー・靴下・コート・ジャケット・バッグ等）化に応じた形状の作業台を用いてもよく、このようにすれば、本発明による衣料素材を用いた製品化が容易となる。
具体的には、製品が帽子の場合を例にして説明すれば、帽子のトップ（人や動物の頭部を入れる部分）に対応した形状を有する作業台を使用し、該作業台上に、所望量の原毛（シート状）を、所望の位置に積層し、これを捏ねてフェルト化すると同時に、トップとブリム（トップに続く縁部分）を形成することで、帽子として必要な形状化が完了する。
In the method of the present invention, first, such raw hair is made into a sheet (specifically, a lump of raw hair is stretched into a sheet by hand or appropriate means), and a plurality of sheets are laminated on a work table. To do.
At this time, a pattern made of synthetic resin or the like is laid on the work table, or the work table itself is a product using the clothing material according to the present invention (for example, a hat, gloves, muffler, socks, coat, jacket, A work table having a shape corresponding to the shape of the bag or the like may be used, and in this way, the product using the clothing material according to the present invention can be easily manufactured.
Specifically, in the case where the product is a hat, for example, a work table having a shape corresponding to the top of the hat (a part into which a human or animal head is placed) is used. The desired amount of raw hair (sheet-like) is laminated at the desired position and kneaded to make it felt, and at the same time, the top and brim (edge part following the top) are formed to complete the necessary shape of the hat To do.
なお、積層する原毛の量は、上記のように、得られる衣料素材の用途や製品のデザインによって、あるいは使用する原毛の種類によって、適宜調節すればよい。
例えば、原毛としてメリノウールを単独で用いる場合、成人女性用の帽子１個に対し、１０〜３００ｇ程度の原毛を積層させることが好ましい。この程度の範囲であれば、帽子として必要最低限の形状から各種デザインの形状までを不都合なく調製することができる。
積層方法については、特に限定されないが、縮絨の効率から、原毛を２〜５ｇ程度毎に分け、薄く広げながら毛足が縦横に交差するように積層することが好ましい。
In addition, what is necessary is just to adjust suitably the quantity of the raw hair to laminate | stack as above-mentioned according to the use of the clothing raw material obtained, the design of a product, or the kind of raw hair to be used.
For example, when merino wool is used alone as the raw hair, it is preferable that about 10 to 300 g of raw hair is laminated on one adult female hat. If it is the range of this grade, from the minimum necessary shape as a hat to the shape of various designs can be prepared without inconvenience.
Although it does not specifically limit about a lamination | stacking method, From the efficiency of a shrinkage | contraction, it is preferable to laminate | stack raw hairs about every 2-5g, and to laminate | stack so that a hair leg may cross | intersect vertically and horizontally, spreading thinly.
次に、この積層した原毛に界面活性剤を含む７０〜１００℃の湯をかけ、該原毛を捏ねることでフェルト質部分を形成する。
界面活性剤を含む湯の温度は、低すぎると原毛の縮絨に時間がかかるうえ、原毛と異素材とを共に捏ねる際に（異素材の種類によっては）原毛と異素材との接合に支障をきたす虞があり、また、高すぎると縮絨効果は飽和し、原毛や異素材が損傷する虞があるため、本発明では、上記範囲内が好ましく、より好ましくは７０〜９５℃である。
原毛にかけられる湯の量は、捏ねられる原毛（および異素材）の量と種類により適宜調節されるが、例えば、メリノウールのみを１００ｇ捏ねる際には、１０〜１５リットルの湯を使用する。
Next, hot water at 70 to 100 ° C. containing a surfactant is applied to the laminated raw hair, and the felted portion is formed by kneading the raw hair.
If the temperature of the hot water containing the surfactant is too low, it will take time for the raw hair to contract, and when kneading the raw hair and the different material together (depending on the type of the different material), this may hinder the bonding of the raw hair and the different material. In the present invention, the above range is preferable, and 70 to 95 ° C is more preferable.
The amount of hot water applied to the raw hair is appropriately adjusted depending on the amount and type of raw hair (and different materials) to be kneaded. For example, when kneading only 100 g of merino wool, 10-15 liters of hot water is used.
界面活性剤を含む７０〜１００℃の湯は、積層した原毛上に一度にかけてもよく、あるいは、層を積層させる毎に少量ずつかけてもよい。 The hot water at 70 to 100 ° C. containing the surfactant may be applied at once onto the laminated raw hair, or may be applied in small portions each time the layers are laminated.
この捏ねるステップに用いる界面活性剤としては、ノニオン系、アニオン系、カチオン系のいずれを用いてもよく、中でも、ノニオン系が好ましい。
界面活性剤は、上記の湯１容量部に対して、０．０１〜０．５容量部含ませればよい。
界面活性剤の濃度が、低すぎると原毛などの繊維表面のキューティクルが変化しにくく縮絨に時間がかかり、また、高すぎるとフェルト質部分の形成後に該界面活性剤を洗い流すのに手間を要するため、本発明では、上記範囲内が好ましく、より好ましくは０．０１〜０．１容量部である。
As the surfactant used in this kneading step, any of nonionic, anionic and cationic ones may be used, and among them, the nonionic one is preferable.
The surfactant may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 0.5 parts by volume with respect to 1 part by volume of the hot water.
If the concentration of the surfactant is too low, the cuticle on the fiber surface such as the raw hair is difficult to change, and it takes time to shrink, and if it is too high, it takes time to wash away the surfactant after the formation of the felt part. Therefore, in the present invention, the above range is preferable, and 0.01 to 0.1 part by volume is more preferable.
本発明では、原毛を捏ねるステップにおいて、該原毛とは異なる素材と共に捏ねることができる。
この異素材としては、例えば、絹、麻、木綿、毛皮、皮革、まゆ玉、ドライフラワー、羽、毛糸を球状体にしたものなどの天然素材、アセテート、レーヨンなどの合成繊維、ウレタンや塩化ビニル系樹脂製の合成皮革、各種プラスチック製のビーズ、スパンコールなどの合成素材等が挙げられる。
In the present invention, in the step of kneading the raw hair, it can be kneaded with a material different from the raw hair.
Examples of the different materials include natural materials such as silk, hemp, cotton, fur, leather, eyebrows, dried flowers, feathers, and woolen yarns, synthetic fibers such as acetate and rayon, urethane and vinyl chloride. Synthetic materials such as synthetic resin synthetic leather, various plastic beads, and sequins.
上記異素材は、所定箇所に配置しておき、原毛を捏ねる際に同時に捏ねてもよいし、原毛の捏ねを開始した後に、適宜の時期に所定位置に配置し、原毛の捏ねに合わせて捏ねてもよい。 The above-mentioned different materials may be placed in a predetermined place and kneaded at the same time when the raw hair is kneaded, or after starting the kneading of the raw hair, placed at a predetermined position at a suitable time and kneaded according to the kneading of the raw hair. May be.
本発明の製造方法では、異素材同士の接合においては、互いの接合部となる端縁の繊維をほぐすか、もしくは、互いの接合部となる端縁あるいは異素材全体を真綿、木綿、麻又は原毛で包んだり、オーガンジーなどの透き通った素材でサンドイッチ状に挟持するなどして覆い、この解繊部あるいは覆部に原毛を載置し、この原毛と、各端縁のほぐした繊維、もしくは真綿、木綿、麻、原毛あるいはオーガンジーなどとを、捏ねてフェルト質部分を形成することが重要である。
この異素材同士の接合とは、例えば、絹と麻や、皮革と皮革のような天然素材同士の接合、まゆ玉と合成皮革のような天然素材と合成素材との接合、アセテートとビーズのような合成素材同士の接合、などが含まれる。
異素材同士の接合は、例えば、絹と麻と皮革や、絹と皮革とビーズのように、天然素材同士あるいは天然素材と合成素材などの３種類以上を同時に接合することもできる。
In the production method of the present invention, in joining between different materials, the fibers at the edge serving as a joint part of each other are loosened, or the edge serving as the joint part or the whole of the different material as a whole is made of cotton, cotton, hemp or Cover it by wrapping it with raw wool or sandwiching it with a transparent material such as organdy, and place the raw hair on this defibrated part or covering part, and this raw hair and loosened fibers on each edge, or cotton It is important to knead cotton, hemp, raw wool or organdy to form a felt part.
The joining of different materials is, for example, joining of natural materials such as silk and hemp, leather and leather, joining of natural materials and synthetic materials such as eyebrows and synthetic leather, acetate and beads. Such as joining of various synthetic materials.
For the joining of different materials, for example, three or more kinds of natural materials or natural materials and synthetic materials can be joined at the same time, such as silk, hemp and leather, silk, leather and beads.
このように、互いの接合部となる端縁の繊維をほぐす（例えば、絹、天然皮革、合成皮革など）か、もしくは、互いの接合部となる端縁あるいは異素材全体を真綿、木綿、麻、原毛、あるいはオーガンジーなどの透ける素材で覆う（例えば、ドライフラワー、羽、ビーズ、スパンコールなど）ことで、捏ねるステップにおいて、原毛と各異素材とが絡みやすくなり、この結果、異素材同士の接合において、糸や接着剤を用いることなく容易に接合することが可能となる。 In this way, loosen the fibers at the edges to be joined to each other (for example, silk, natural leather, synthetic leather, etc.), or the edges to be joined to each other or the whole of different materials are made of cotton, cotton, hemp Covering with a transparent material such as hair, organdy, etc. (for example, dried flowers, feathers, beads, sequins, etc.) makes it easier for the raw hair and the different materials to become entangled during the kneading step. Therefore, it becomes possible to join easily without using a thread | yarn or an adhesive agent.
そして、原毛を捏ねるステップ（あるいは、原毛と、各端縁のほぐした繊維、もしくは真綿、木綿、麻、原毛あるいは透ける素材とを、捏ねるステップ）においては、捏ねる圧力が１０〜５０ｋｇ／ｍ2であることが好ましい。
捏ねる圧力が、低すぎると原毛などの繊維表面のキューティクルが変化しにくく縮絨に時間がかかり、また、高すぎると縮絨効果は飽和し、原毛や異素材が損傷する虞があるため、本発明では、上記範囲内が好まい。
In the step of kneading the raw hair (or the step of kneading the raw hair and the loosened fibers of each edge, or the cotton, cotton, hemp, raw hair or transparent material), the kneading pressure is 10 to 50 kg / m 2 . Preferably there is.
If the kneading pressure is too low, the cuticle on the fiber surface such as the raw hair will not change easily, and it will take time to shrink.If it is too high, the shrinking effect will be saturated and the raw hair and other materials may be damaged. In the invention, the above range is preferred.
原毛を捏ねる方法（あるいは、原毛と、各端縁のほぐした繊維、もしくは真綿、木綿、麻、原毛あるいは透ける素材とを捏ねる方法）としては、上記のような界面活性剤を含む湯を用い、上記のような圧力にて捏ねることができるならば、特に限定されず、丸棒や簾、一般的な捏ね機（縮絨機）などを用いることもできる。
また、この捏ねるステップにおいては、捏ね（フェルト質形成）の途中の段階で、放置してもよい（次の日に、その段階から捏ねを続けることができる）。
As a method of kneading raw wool (or a method of kneading raw hair and unraveled fibers of each edge, or cotton, cotton, hemp, raw hair or a transparent material), hot water containing a surfactant as described above is used. If it can knead with the above pressure, it will not specifically limit, A round bar, a koji, a general kneading machine (contraction machine), etc. can also be used.
Further, in this kneading step, the kneading may be left in the middle of kneading (felt formation) (kneading can be continued from that stage on the next day).
本発明では、原毛を捏ねるステップ（あるいは、原毛と、各端縁のほぐした繊維、もしくは真綿、木綿、麻、原毛あるいは透ける素材とを捏ねるステップ）において、合成樹脂等製のフィルム・シート・板などの分離用型材を用いることで、得られるフェルト質部分の一部に離れた部分を形成してもよい。 In the present invention, in the step of kneading the raw hair (or the step of kneading the raw hair and the loosened fibers of each end, or the cotton, cotton, hemp, raw hair or the transparent material), a film, sheet or board made of synthetic resin or the like By using a separating mold such as, a part away from a part of the obtained felty part may be formed.
以上のように原毛を捏ねることでフェルト質部分を形成した後、界面活性剤を洗い流し、脱水・乾燥する。
洗い流す方法としては、得られたフェルト質を絞った際に界面活性剤の泡が出ない程度にまで洗い流すことができるならば、特に限定されず、水でもお湯でも適宜用いることができる。
脱水は、一般的な脱水機などを用いればよく、乾燥は、急速でも緩慢でもよく、天日干しやアイロン、一般的な乾燥機などを用いればよい。
After forming the felt part by kneading the raw hair as described above, the surfactant is washed away, dehydrated and dried.
The washing method is not particularly limited as long as it can be washed out to such an extent that the foam of surfactant is not generated when the obtained felt is squeezed, and water or hot water can be used as appropriate.
Dehydration may be performed using a general dehydrator or the like, and drying may be rapid or slow, and may be performed using a sun-dryer, an iron, a general dryer, or the like.
本発明の製造方法により得られるフェルト質部分の厚さや大きさは、用途に応じて適宜選択することができ、例えば、厚さは、通常、薄いものでは０．１ｍｍ程度から、厚いものでは２０〜３０ｍｍ程度であるが、同じ厚さでも密度を変化させることにより硬い憾蝕のものから柔らかい感触のものまで適宜調整することができる。 The thickness and size of the felt-like portion obtained by the production method of the present invention can be appropriately selected depending on the application. For example, the thickness is usually about 0.1 mm for a thin one and 20 for a thick one. Although it is about -30 mm, even if it is the same thickness, it can adjust suitably from a hard caries thing to a soft touch thing by changing a density.
また、本発明の製造方法によれば、以上説明した内容から明らかなように、例えば皮革同士あるいは絹や麻同士を本発明によるフェルト質部分を介在させて接合することもできるため、本発明によるフェルト質部分はこれらの素材を接合する際の接合材としても有効に使用することができる。
例えば、各種色に染色した天然もしくは合成皮革を適宜配置して、これら各色の皮革を、従来のような糸による縫合でもないし、もちろん接着剤による接着でもなく、本発明によるフェルト質部分によって接合することができる。皮革に限らず、絹・麻・木綿・合成繊維等の織布・不織布・編布等の同素材同士（例えは、絹と絹、合成繊維と合成繊維等）あるいは異素材同士（例えば、絹と麻、合成繊維と合成皮革等）をも本発明によるフェルト質部分によって接合することができる。
このように本発明の製造方法によれば、衣料素材の一層の多様デザイン化が可能となり、衣料素材の多数種少数生産をより容易に実現することができる。
Further, according to the production method of the present invention, as is clear from the contents described above, for example, leather or silk or hemp can be joined together with the felt part according to the present invention interposed therebetween. The felt part can also be used effectively as a bonding material for bonding these materials.
For example, natural or synthetic leathers dyed in various colors are arranged as appropriate, and the leathers of these colors are joined by the felt part according to the present invention, not by stitching with a thread as in the past, or by adhesion with an adhesive. be able to. Not only leather, but the same materials such as silk, hemp, cotton, synthetic fibers, etc. (such as silk and silk, synthetic fibers and synthetic fibers) or different materials (for example, silk) And hemp, synthetic fiber and synthetic leather, etc.) can also be joined by the felt part according to the invention.
As described above, according to the manufacturing method of the present invention, it is possible to further design various garment materials, and it is possible to more easily realize a large number and a small number of garment materials.
本発明のフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材の製造方法は、使用する異素材の組み合わせを変化させることにより、従来の縫製による衣料素材では得られないデザイン性の豊かな製品を、慣用の道具・装置を用い、特別な熟練を要することなく、容易に得ることができるうえ、異素材同士の接合において縫糸や接着剤を使用しないため、省資源であり、かつ環境に優しい。
このため、本発明の製造方法によるフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材は、縫い目や接着剤痕（跡）が存在せず、一般的な家庭用洗濯機で洗うことが可能である等、製品購入後の取扱いに特別な配慮を要さないものである。
The manufacturing method of the clothing material including the felt-like portion of the present invention is a conventional tool / device that can be obtained by changing the combination of different materials to be used to produce a product with a rich design that cannot be obtained by a conventional sewing material. It can be easily obtained without requiring special skill, and since no sewing thread or adhesive is used in joining different materials, it is resource-saving and environmentally friendly.
For this reason, the clothing material including the felt-like portion according to the manufacturing method of the present invention has no seam or adhesive marks (traces) and can be washed with a general household washing machine. It does not require special consideration in handling.
実施例１〜８および比較例１〜１１
下記素材を各々作業台上に積層・載置し、表１に示す温度の１０リットル（以下、リットルを“Ｌ”、ミリリットルを“ｍＬ”と記す）の湯≪ノニオン系界面活性剤（ライオン株式会社製商品名“ナテラ”）１００ｍＬを含む≫をかけながら、手作業にて表１に示す圧力下で捏ね、フェルト質部分を含む衣料素材を形成した。
得られたフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材を帽子用木型に載せ、成形および適宜裁断を行った。
次に、成形した帽子を流水にて洗い、上記の界面活性剤を該流水により除去し、家庭用洗濯機の脱水機能により脱水した後、（羊）毛用温度に設定した家庭用アイロンで急速乾燥し、成人女性用の帽子を得た。
Examples 1-8 and Comparative Examples 1-11
The following materials are stacked and placed on a workbench, respectively, and hot water of 10 liters (hereinafter referred to as “L” for liters and “mL” for milliliters) at the temperatures shown in Table 1 << nonionic surfactant (Lion Corporation) The product material containing a felt-like part was formed by hand kneading under the pressure shown in Table 1 while applying 100 mL containing 100 mL of the product name “NATERA” manufactured by the company.
The obtained clothing material containing the felt-like portion was placed on a hat mold, and was molded and appropriately cut.
Next, the molded cap is washed with running water, the surfactant is removed by running water, dehydrated by the dehydrating function of a household washing machine, and then quickly washed with a domestic iron set at a (wool) hair temperature. Dried and got a hat for adult women.
各帽子の構成材料および分量を以下に示す。
実施例１：メリノウール１００ｇ、
実施例２：メリノウール７０ｇ＋麻３０ｇ（繊維状の麻）、
実施例３：メリノウール９０ｇ＋まゆ玉１０ｇ、
実施例４：メリノウール９０ｇ＋ビーズ９ｇ＋真綿２ｇ、
実施例５：絹４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚の絹織布を使用）＋麻４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚の麻織布を使用）＋メリノウール５ｇ、
実施例６：レーヨン４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚のレーヨン編布を使用）＋麻４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚の麻不織布を使用）＋メリノウール５ｇ、
実施例７：天然皮革９５ｇ（１２×１２ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇの天然皮革９枚と、５ｇの天然皮革１枚を使用）＋メリノウール５ｇ、
実施例８：メリノウール９０ｇ＋ビーズ９ｇ＋絹製オーガンジー１ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重量が２ｇのものを１／２にカットして使用）、
The constituent materials and quantities of each cap are shown below.
Example 1: Merino wool 100g,
Example 2: Merino wool 70g + hemp 30g (fibrous hemp),
Example 3: 90 g of merino wool + 10 g of eyebrows
Example 4: 90 g merino wool + 9 g beads + 2 g cotton
Example 5: 45 g of silk (50 × 50 cm dimensions, using two silk woven fabrics weighing 10 g and 35 g) + 45 g of hemp (50 × 50 cm dimensions, 2 ggs of weight 10 g and 35 g) Woven fabric) + 5g merino wool,
Example 6: 45 g of rayon (50 × 50 cm dimensions, using two rayon knitted fabrics weighing 10 g and 35 g) + 45 g of hemp (50 × 50 cm dimensions, weighing 10 g and 35 g of two hemps) Use non-woven fabric) + 5g merino wool,
Example 7: 95 g of natural leather (uses 9 pieces of natural leather with a size of 12 × 12 cm and a weight of 10 g and 1 piece of 5 g of natural leather) +5 g of merino wool,
Example 8: Merino wool 90 g + bead 9 g + silk organdy 1 g (50 × 50 cm dimension, weight 2 g cut into half)
比較例１：メリノウール１００ｇ、
比較例２：メリノウール１００ｇ、
比較例３：メリノウール７０ｇ＋麻３０ｇ（繊維状の麻）、
比較例４：メリノウール７０ｇ＋麻３０ｇ、
比較例５：メリノウール９０ｇ＋ビーズ９ｇ＋真綿２ｇ、
比較例６：メリノウール９０ｇ＋ビーズ９ｇ＋真綿２ｇ、
比較例７：絹４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚の絹織布を使用）＋麻４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚の麻織布を使用）＋メリノウール５ｇ、
比較例８：レーヨン４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚のレーヨン編布を使用）＋麻４５ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇと３５ｇの２枚の麻不織布を使用）＋メリノウール５ｇ、
比較例９：天然皮革９５ｇ（１２×１２ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇの天然皮革９枚と、５ｇの天然皮革１枚を使用）＋メリノウール５ｇ、
比較例１０：天然皮革９５ｇ（１２×１２ｃｍ寸法で、重さが１０ｇの天然皮革９枚と、５ｇの天然皮革１枚を使用）（各天然皮革を糸で縫合）、
比較例１１：メリノウール９０ｇ＋ビーズ９ｇ＋絹製オーガンジー１ｇ（５０×５０ｃｍ寸法で、重量が２ｇのものを１／２にカットして使用）、
Comparative Example 1: Merino wool 100g,
Comparative Example 2: Merino wool 100g,
Comparative Example 3: Merino wool 70 g + hemp 30 g (fibrous hemp)
Comparative Example 4: Merino wool 70g + hemp 30g
Comparative Example 5: 90 g of merino wool + 9 g of beads + 2 g of cotton
Comparative Example 6: 90 g of merino wool + 9 g of beads + 2 g of cotton
Comparative Example 7: 45 g of silk (50 × 50 cm dimension, using two silk woven fabrics with a weight of 10 g and 35 g) + Hemp 45 g (50 × 50 cm dimension with a weight of 10 g and 35 g of two hemps) Woven fabric) + 5g merino wool,
Comparative Example 8: 45 g of rayon (50 × 50 cm dimensions, using two rayon knitted fabrics with a weight of 10 g and 35 g) +45 g of hemp 45 g (50 × 50 cm dimensions, weights of 10 g and 35 g with two hemps) Use non-woven fabric) + 5g merino wool,
Comparative Example 9: 95 g of natural leather (uses 9 pieces of natural leather having a size of 12 × 12 cm and a weight of 10 g and 1 piece of 5 g of natural leather) +5 g of merino wool,
Comparative Example 10: 95 g of natural leather (uses 9 pieces of natural leather having a size of 12 × 12 cm and a weight of 10 g and 1 piece of 5 g of natural leather) (each natural leather is stitched with a thread),
Comparative Example 11: 90 g of merino wool + 9 g of beads + 1 g of silk organdy (50 × 50 cm dimensions, weight of 2 g cut into half)
なお、実施例４および比較例５，６においては、あらかじめビーズを２〜３ヶ毎に真綿０．１〜０．３ｇでくるむように覆ったもの、実施例８および比較例１１では、ビーズ２〜３ヶ毎に２〜５ｃｍ×２〜５ｃｍ程度にカットしたオーガンジーでサンドイッチ状に挟持したものを、メリノウールと共に積層させた。
また、実施例５および比較例７では、あらかじめ絹の（麻との接合部となる）端縁および麻の（絹との接合部となる）端縁部分（各端部から５〜１０ｍｍ程度の長さ部分）の繊維をほぐしておき、実施例６および比較例８では、あらかじめレーヨンの（麻との接合部となる）端縁および麻の（レーヨンとの接合部となる）端縁部分（各端部から５〜１０ｍｍ程度の長さ部分）の繊維をほぐしておき、実施例７および比較例９では、あらかじめ皮革の（他の皮革との接合部となる）端縁の繊維をほぐしておき、これらの接合部上にメリノウールを載置した。
In Example 4 and Comparative Examples 5 and 6, beads were previously covered with 0.1 to 0.3 g of cotton every 2-3 pieces, in Example 8 and Comparative Example 11, beads 2 to 2 were covered. What was sandwiched by organdy cut to about 2-5 cm × 2-5 cm every three pieces was laminated together with merino wool.
In Example 5 and Comparative Example 7, the edge of the silk (becomes a joint with hemp) and the edge of the hemp (becomes a joint with silk) (about 5 to 10 mm from each end) In Example 6 and Comparative Example 8, the edge of the rayon (which becomes the joint portion with hemp) and the edge portion of the hemp (which becomes the joint portion with rayon) ( In Example 7 and Comparative Example 9, the fiber at the edge of the leather (which becomes the joint with other leather) is loosened in advance. The merino wool was placed on these joints.
（１）実施例１〜７，比較例１〜１１におけるフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材が得られるまでの時間（捏ねに要した時間）、（２）各例から成形された帽子における異素材間同士の接合部の外観評価、（３）実際の使用強度、（４）洗濯に対する強度、を下記の評価方法で評価した。
結果を表１に併せて示す。
(1) Time until the clothing material containing the felt part in Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 11 is obtained (time required for kneading), (2) Between different materials in hats molded from each example The following evaluation methods evaluated the external appearance evaluation of the junction part of each other, (3) Actual use intensity | strength, (4) The intensity | strength with respect to washing.
The results are also shown in Table 1.
（１）捏ねに要した時間：フェルト質部分が形成されるまでの捏ねに要した時間を測定し、下記基準で評価した。
○；９０分未満
△；９０〜１２０分
×；１２０分以上
(1) Time required for kneading: The time required for kneading until the felt part was formed was measured and evaluated according to the following criteria.
○: Less than 90 minutes Δ; 90-120 minutes ×; 120 minutes or more
（２）接合部の外観評価：得られた帽子における異素材間同士の接合部の外観を目視にて観察し、該接合部の平滑性が極めて優れており、問題なかったものを「○」、素材の一部に損傷が僅かに見られたり、風合いが硬い等の問題があったものの、実用上問題なかったものを「△」、接合部にほつれがあり、風合いが硬すぎてフェルト感がなったものを「×」で示した。 (2) Appearance evaluation of joint part: The appearance of the joint part between different materials in the obtained hat was visually observed, and the smoothness of the joint part was extremely excellent. , “△” indicates that the material was slightly damaged or the texture was hard, but there were no problems in practical use. The joint had fraying and the texture was too hard and felted. Those marked with “×” are shown.
（３）実際の使用強度：得られた帽子を１週間装着し続け（就寝中も脱ぐことなく）、１週間後に帽子全体を目視観察し、何ら異常が見られなかったものを「○」、素材の一部に損傷が僅かに見られたり、風合いが硬くなったものの、実用上問題なかったものを「△」、接合部にほつれがあったり、風合いが硬くなりすぎて、実用性がなくなったものを「×」で示した。 (3) Actual strength of use: Keep wearing the obtained hat for one week (without taking it off while sleeping), and visually observe the entire hat after one week. A part of the material was slightly damaged or the texture became hard, but “△” indicates that there was no problem in practical use. The joints were frayed or the texture became too hard and the practicality was lost. This is indicated by “x”.
（４）洗濯に対する強度：得られた帽子を洗濯ネットに入れ、一般的な家庭用洗濯機の弱流で３分間洗濯（合成洗剤使用）、２分間すすぎ、２分間脱水を行った。
晴天下、天日干しにより乾燥させ、洗濯後の帽子の外観を目視にて観察し、洗濯前と変化がなく、特に問題なかったものを「○」、接合部などにほつれが生じたり足り、風合いが硬くなりすぎて実用性が消失したものを「×」で示した。
(4) Strength against washing: The obtained hat was put in a washing net, washed for 3 minutes (using a synthetic detergent) in a general household washing machine, rinsed for 2 minutes, and dehydrated for 2 minutes.
Dry under sunny weather, sun-dried, visually observe the appearance of the hat after washing, “○” if there is no change from before washing, there is no particular problem, frayed or sufficient, texture, etc. “X” indicates that the hardness became too hard and the utility was lost.
実施例および比較例に用いた材料は、以下のとおりである。
表１中、
（使用原料）
メリノウール：有限会社金の羊社製社製商品名“染めメリノウール”
まゆ玉：平尾絹精錬工学研究所製と多摩シルクライフ２１社製を同量づつ混合使用
ビーズ：有限会社エルミューゼ社製
真綿： 財団法人日本真綿協会製 商品名“角真綿”
麻織布、絹織布、レーヨン、絹オーガンジー：切り売り用の市販品
The materials used in the examples and comparative examples are as follows.
In Table 1,
(Raw materials used)
Merino Wool: Trade name “Dyed Merino Wool” manufactured by Kinno sheep Co., Ltd.
Mayutama: Hirao Silk Refining Engineering Laboratory and Tama Silk Life 21 companies are mixed in equal amounts Beads: El Muses Co., Ltd.
Linen fabric, silk fabric, rayon, silk organdy: commercial products for sale
本発明の製造方法によるフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材は、縫い目や接着剤痕（跡）が存在せず、一般的な家庭用洗濯機で洗うことが可能である等、製品購入後の取扱いに特別な配慮を要さないものである。
このため、本発明の製造方法により得られる衣料素材は、例えば、コート、ブラウス、ベスト、帽子、マフラー、手袋、靴下、バッグ、室内用履物、各種敷物（シート）、財布、めがねケース、タペストリーなどに好適に利用される。
The clothing material containing the felt part by the manufacturing method of the present invention has no stitches or adhesive marks, and can be washed with a general household washing machine. It does not require special consideration.
For this reason, the clothing material obtained by the manufacturing method of the present invention includes, for example, a coat, a blouse, a vest, a hat, a muffler, gloves, socks, a bag, indoor footwear, various rugs (sheets), a wallet, a spectacle case, a tapestry, and the like. Is suitably used.
Claims (2)
該界面活性剤を洗い流し、脱水・乾燥することを特徴とするフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材の製造方法。 When the raw hair is laminated, hot water at 70 to 100 ° C. containing a surfactant in a proportion of 1 to 50% by weight is applied thereto, and the felt is kneaded at a pressure of 10 to 50 kg / m 2 to form a felt part. Kneading at least one kind of material different from the raw hair together with the raw hair,
A method for producing a clothing material containing a felt-like portion, wherein the surfactant is washed away, dehydrated and dried.
互いの接合部となる異素材の端縁を解繊するか、若しくは該端縁あるいは異素材全体を真綿、木綿、麻又は原毛で覆い、
該解繊部若しくは覆部に原毛を載置し、
原毛と、解繊繊維若しくは、前記覆部の真綿、木綿、麻又は原毛とを、捏ねてフェルト質部分を形成することで行う
ことを特徴とする請求項１に記載のフェルト質部分を含む衣料素材の製造方法。 Joining raw hair and different materials or joining different materials
Disentangle the edges of different materials that become the joints of each other, or cover the edges or the entire different materials with cotton, cotton, hemp or raw wool,
Place raw hair on the defibrating part or covering part,
2. The clothing comprising a felt-like part according to claim 1, wherein the felt is formed by kneading raw wool and defibrated fibers or cotton, cotton, hemp or raw wool of the covering part. Material manufacturing method.
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