EP0230170B1 - Active hemming device - Google Patents

Active hemming device Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0230170B1
EP0230170B1 EP86402640A EP86402640A EP0230170B1 EP 0230170 B1 EP0230170 B1 EP 0230170B1 EP 86402640 A EP86402640 A EP 86402640A EP 86402640 A EP86402640 A EP 86402640A EP 0230170 B1 EP0230170 B1 EP 0230170B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fold
piece
active
elements
stitching
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP86402640A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0230170A3 (en
EP0230170A2 (en
Inventor
Jean-Pierre Raisin
Alain Canaud
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Institut Textile de France
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Institut Textile de France
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Publication date
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Publication of EP0230170A2 publication Critical patent/EP0230170A2/en
Publication of EP0230170A3 publication Critical patent/EP0230170A3/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0230170B1 publication Critical patent/EP0230170B1/en
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding
    • D05B35/062—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding with hem-turning
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/10—Edge guides
    • D05B35/102—Edge guide control systems with edge sensors

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a device for guiding a flexible piece such as a textile piece for the formation of a regular fold along an edge of said piece, this device being placed upstream of a stitching station intended to automatically close the fold.
  • This invention applies to the field of clothing, for the production of articles comprising a fold along the edge of the fabric, in particular articles such as sweatpants, shorts which have an elastic belt obtained by the laying an elastic band inside a fold formed along the edge of the fabric.
  • a fold along an edge of a flexible piece is generally carried out manually by the operator, who folds the piece parallel to the edge over a width corresponding to the desired width of the fold and present it, the fold thus formed, in the stitching station.
  • the fold is more or less regular.
  • a particular difficulty appears when the fold must contain an elastic band, as is the case in sweatpants: the profile that the operator must follow is located under the first layer of fabric and is therefore invisible to him; the operator must constantly check the width of his fold, by inverting the fabric or by palpating the edges of the elastic and the fabric.
  • the aforementioned device is not entirely satisfactory, due to the imprecision due to the brushing drive and the distance of the brush from the formation of the fold. In addition it is not suitable in the case where the fold must contain an elastic band.
  • the device according to the invention comprises, placed close to and upstream of the stitching station in the direction of movement of the part being stitched,
  • the active guide assembly comprises two active guides, one applying to the upper face of the interior element and the other to the interior face of said element, the exterior element having two openings for the passage of each active guide respectively, and the active guides simultaneously ensure the movement of the part transversely with respect to the direction D of stitching in one or the other direction according to the instructions given by the detection device.
  • the two active guides both take support on the part when it is in contact with one of the faces of the interior element, but one resting on the upper face and the other on the lower face.
  • the two guides act so as to coordinate the movement of the part in accordance with the instructions given by the detection device.
  • the implementation of two active guides, one acting on the upper part of the fold and the other on the lower part of the fold, is preferable to avoid the accumulation of fabric in the bent part of the recess between the two interior and exterior elements of the passive assembly, accumulation which would create a malfunction of the guide device.
  • the flexible part is held by the elements. the same place where the active guide will apply.
  • the detection device is a photoelectric detector and the lower part of the external element has an opening intended to allow the light beam to pass and the internal element has a reflecting surface in line with said opening.
  • the internal element of the passive guide assembly is a hollow part having a U-shaped cross section.
  • the flat and horizontal faces constituting the two branches of the U, and the base of the U of the interior element being opposite the base of the U of the exterior element.
  • At least one of the two elements of the passive assembly is retractable transversely. This arrangement facilitates the introduction of the elastic band into the recess of the inner element.
  • Articles 1 such as sweatpants, jogging pants, shorts have an elastic belt 2 obtained by applying an elastic band 3, generally woven, along the edge of the fabric.
  • This band 3 is previously closed on itself to form a bracelet, as illustrated in FIG. 1 b. It is then sewn in the round on the tubular belt of article 1, either by leaving it visible to prevent the article from sliding on the body, or by hiding it in a fold of the fabric 9. In the latter case, it is necessary to form a fold along the edge of the fabric, place the elastic band 3 inside the fold and close the fold according to the stitching diagram in Figure 2.
  • the width 1 of the fold from the edge 4 of the fabric at the bent end 5 of the fold is greater than the width of the elastic band 3 and must be kept as constant as possible during the stitching operation, which comprises for example four lines of stitching : two chain stitches two threads 6,7 and a overlap point with two needles 8,8 'whose lower thread 8' hides the edge 4 of the fabric. It is the purpose of the invnetion device to allow the formation of a regular fold in front of the stitching station.
  • the guide device (fig. 3) has two parts, one intended for the formation of the fold and the other for transverse guiding of the fabric.
  • the part corresponding to the formation of the fold comprises two parts 10 and 11, both in the shape of a U, one of which 11 is placed inside the other 10.
  • the part 10, exterior, has a bent part 12 which is the base of U; this piece 10 is retractable transversely relative to the direction D of stitching thanks to the action of the jack 21.
  • the front part 13 - in the direction D of movement of the fabric during the stitching - of the upper branch of this piece 10 is flared upward to facilitate the introduction of the fabric 9, the front part 14 of the lower branch of this piece 10 is oblique with respect to the direction D of stitching (fig. 4b).
  • the upper branch of this same part 10 is pierced with an opening 15 intended for the passage of the head 16 of the upper active guide and the lower branch is pierced with two openings 17 and 18 intended for one 17 for the passage of the head 19 of the lower active guide and the other 18 intended for the passage of the light beam coming from the photoelectric detector 20.
  • the part 11, interior is retractable transversely with respect to the direction of stitching, thanks to the action of the jack 22, in opposite direction of part 10, as will be explained later.
  • the open end of the U formed by the part 11 faces the bent interior part 12 of the part 10.
  • the recess 23 formed between the two parts 10 and 11, when the part 11 is inside the part 10 in the fold formation position, has a U-shaped cross section and a height e sufficient to allow the passage of the fabric 9.
  • the recess 24 inside the part 11 has a rectangular parallelepiped section and a sufficient height f to allow the passage of the elastic band 3.
  • the heights e and f must be much greater than the normal thickness of the fabric (for e) and of the elastic band (for f) to allow the passage of the extra thicknesses due to the closure on themselves of these two elements.
  • the part of the device of the invention corresponding to the transverse guide of the fabric during the formation of the fold comprises two active guides 25 and 26 and the detection device 20.
  • the two guides 25 and 26 are identical, one acting on the upper part of the fold, the other 26 on the lower part of the fold.
  • Each of these active guides consists of a guide head 16, fixed at the end of an arm 27 which is articulated around an axis 28.
  • the guide head 16 comprises a roller 29, movable in rotation, lined on its periphery of ten discs 30, free to rotate in recesses 31 made radially in the roller 29 (fig. 7).
  • the roller 29 is rotated by the stepping motor 32 by means of the belt 33.
  • the pneumatic cylinder 34 allows - in the low position - to apply the guide head 16 against the upper face of the part i with a pressure controlled by a pressure reducer not shown, the guide head passing through the opening 15 made in the upper branch of the part 10. In the high position of the jack 34, the head nozzle is far from part 10.
  • the detection device 20 consists of a photoelectric cell which sends a light beam which is reflected on the underside of the piece 11.
  • the cell 20 detects the presence of the fabric 9 when the latter cuts the light beam or its absence, it controls the action of the stepping motor 32 in one direction or the other.
  • the assembly of the guide device according to the invention is placed in front of the stitching head 35 so that the face 36 of the piece 10 is substantially in the same plane as the upper part 37 of the arm 38 of the sewing machine. Furthermore, four rollers 39 are arranged around the arm 38 of the sewing machine to receive the elastic band 3 in the form of a bracelet, the two upper rollers 39 being arranged so that the elastic band 3 rests on the upper part 37 of the arm 38.
  • the operation of the device is as follows. During the phases of introduction of the elastic band 3, on the one hand the guide heads 16 and 19 are spaced from one another, the jacks 34 being in the high position, and on the other hand the parts 10 and 11 are spaced from each other under the action of the jacks 21 and 22 (fig. 6a).
  • the operator sets up the elastic band 3 around the rollers 39, the presser foot of the stitching head 35 being raised.
  • the piece 11 is moved under the action of the jack 22 in the direction of the arrow F1 (fig. 6b) so that the strip 3 passes between the two U-shaped branches of the piece 11.
  • the piece 10 is advanced under the action of the jack 21 in the direction of the arrow F2 (fig.
  • the fabric 9 is introduced manually by the operator into the upper part of the recess 23 formed between the two parts 10 and 11 until the fold is formed by sliding of the fabric 9 on the different surfaces of the two parts 10 and 11 forming the recess 23 and in particular the bent part 12 of part 10 (fig. 6d).
  • the fabric 9 is pushed by the operator in the direction of stitching for the oblique edge 14 of the lower branch of the part 10 facilitates the formation of the fold.
  • the guide heads 16 and 19 are applied to the upper and lower branches of the part 11 respectively, under the action of the corresponding jacks 34, in the low position. As a result, the guide heads 16 and 19 pinch the fabric 9 against the two faces of the part 11.
  • the signal emitted by the control cell by means of means of known electronic processing, the rotation of the roller 29 of the head 16 in the direction of the arrow F 3 (fig. 3) and that of the roller 29 of the head 19 in the direction of the arrow F4 until the edge 4 of the fabric 9 covers the cell 20.
  • an opposite signal controls the rotation of the rollers 29 in the opposite direction.
  • the two rollers therefore have simultaneous and complementary actions to position the edge 4 of the fabric 9 relative to the stitching lines 8 and 8 'during the sewing operation.
  • the length of the branches of the U-shaped piece 10 is 40 millimeters, that of the branches of the piece 11 is 25 millimeters; the internal recess e between the two parts 10 and 11 is 3.5 millimeters; the outside diameter of the guide heads 16 and 19 is 30 millimeters; the internal recess f between the two branches of the part 11 is 3 millimeters; the distance between the bent interior part 12 of the part 10 and the end of the branches of the part 11 is 10 millimeters.
  • the rear part of the piece 10 - in the direction D of movement of the fabric during the stitching - is 60 millimeters from the needles.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

La présente invention concerne un dispositif de guidage d'une pièce souple telle qu'une pièce textile pour la formation d'un pli régulier le long d'un bord de ladite pièce, ce dispositif étant placé en amont d'un poste de piquage destiné à fermer automatiquement le pli. Cette invention s'applique au domaine de la confection, pour la réalisation d'articles comportant un pli le long du bord de l'étoffe, en particulier les articles tels que les pantalons de survêtements, les shorts qui ont une ceinture élastique obtenue par la pose d'une bande élastique à l'intérieur d'un pli formé le long du bord de l'étoffe.The present invention relates to a device for guiding a flexible piece such as a textile piece for the formation of a regular fold along an edge of said piece, this device being placed upstream of a stitching station intended to automatically close the fold. This invention applies to the field of clothing, for the production of articles comprising a fold along the edge of the fabric, in particular articles such as sweatpants, shorts which have an elastic belt obtained by the laying an elastic band inside a fold formed along the edge of the fabric.

La formation d'un pli le long d'un bord d'une pièce souple, telle qu'une pièce textile, est généralement réalisée manuellement par l'opérateur, qui replie la pièce parallèlement au bord sur une largeur correspondant à la largeur désirée du pli et le présente, le pli ainsi formé, dans le poste de piquage. Selon la dextérité de l'opérateur, le pli est plus ou moins régulier. Une difficulté particulière apparaît lorsque le pli doit contenir une bande élastique, comme c'est le cas dans les pantalons de survêtement: le profil que doit suivre l'opérateur est situé sous la première épaisseur d'étoffe et lui est donc invisible; l'opérateur doit constamment vérifier la largeur de son pli, en retournant l'étoffe ou en palpant les bords de l'élastique et de l'étoffe.The formation of a fold along an edge of a flexible piece, such as a textile piece, is generally carried out manually by the operator, who folds the piece parallel to the edge over a width corresponding to the desired width of the fold and present it, the fold thus formed, in the stitching station. Depending on the operator's dexterity, the fold is more or less regular. A particular difficulty appears when the fold must contain an elastic band, as is the case in sweatpants: the profile that the operator must follow is located under the first layer of fabric and is therefore invisible to him; the operator must constantly check the width of his fold, by inverting the fabric or by palpating the edges of the elastic and the fabric.

On a déjà proposé par le brevet DE-A 3 011 151 un dispositif de guidage pour la formation automatique d'un pli. Ce dispositif connu comprend un ensemble de guidage et un dispositif de correction. L'ensemble de guidage consiste en deux éléments, l'un étant placé à l'intérieur de l'autre pendant la formation du pli:

  • - l'élément intérieur dont les deux faces supérieures et inférieures sont planes et horizontales,
  • - l'élément extérieur ayant la forme d'un U et enveloppant l'élément intérieur sur un côté et les deux faces horizontales, ces deux éléments étant positionnés l'un par rapport à l'autre de telle sorte qu'il existe entre lesdits éléments un évidement, en forme de U, suffisant pour permettre le passage de la pièce souple et réalisant la formation du pli, lors du passage de la pièce dans la partie coudée dudit évidement. Le dispositif de correction comprend un dispositif de détection de la présence de la pièce placé à une distance approximativement égale à la largeur du pli désiré par rapport à la partie coudée de l'évidement entre les deux éléments de l'ensemble passif, et une brosse rotative placée au droit d'une aile prolongeant l'élément intérieur. La brosse tourne continûment dans le même sens; son positionnement par rapport à l'ensemble de guidage peut êtré réglé en sorte que la brosse pousse plus ou moins la pièce contre l'élément intérieur.
DE-A 3,011,151 has already proposed a guide device for the automatic formation of a fold. This known device comprises a guide assembly and a correction device. The guide assembly consists of two elements, one being placed inside the other during the formation of the fold:
  • - the inner element, the two upper and lower faces of which are flat and horizontal,
  • - the external element having the shape of a U and enveloping the internal element on one side and the two horizontal faces, these two elements being positioned relative to each other so that it exists between said elements a recess, U-shaped, sufficient to allow the passage of the flexible part and achieving the formation of the fold, during the passage of the part in the bent part of said recess. The correction device comprises a device for detecting the presence of the part placed at a distance approximately equal to the width of the desired fold relative to the bent part of the recess between the two elements of the passive assembly, and a brush. rotary placed at the right of a wing extending the interior element. The brush rotates continuously in the same direction; its positioning relative to the guide assembly can be adjusted so that the brush pushes more or less the part against the internal element.

Le dispositif précité ne donne pas entière satisfaction, du fait de l'imprécision due à l'entraînement par brossage et à l'éloignement de la brosse par rapport à la formation du pli. De plus il ne convient pas dans le cas où le pli doit contenir une bande élastique.The aforementioned device is not entirely satisfactory, due to the imprecision due to the brushing drive and the distance of the brush from the formation of the fold. In addition it is not suitable in the case where the fold must contain an elastic band.

Or on a trouvé, et c'est l'objet de l'invention, un dispositif de guidage pour la formation d'un pli régulier sur une pièce souple devant un poste de piquage destiné à fermer automatiquement le pli, qui remédie à l'inconvénient précité. De manière connue, le dispositif selon l'invention comprend, placés à proximité du poste de piquage et en amont de celui-ci dans la direction de déplacement de la pièce en cours de piquage,Now we have found, and this is the object of the invention, a guide device for the formation of a regular fold on a flexible piece in front of a stitching station intended to automatically close the fold, which remedies the aforementioned drawback. In a known manner, the device according to the invention comprises, placed close to and upstream of the stitching station in the direction of movement of the part being stitched,

a. un ensemble passif de guidage, consistant en deux éléments, l'un étant placé à l'intérieur de l'autre pendant la formation du pli:

  • - l'élément intérieur dont les deux faces supérieure et inférieure sont planes et horizontales, la face intérieure étant sensiblement dans le plan de travail du poste de piquage,
  • - l'élément extérieur ayant la forme d'un U et enveloppant l'élément intérieur sur un côté et les deux faces horizontales, ces deux éléments étant positionnés l'un par rapport à l'autre de telle sorte qu'il existe entre lesdits éléments un évidement, en forme de U, suffisant pour permettre le passage de la pièce souple et réalisant la formation du pli, lors du passage de la pièce dans la partie coudée dudit évidement,
    b. un dispositif de correction comprenant:
  • - un dispositif de détection de la présence de la pièce placé, sous l'ensemble passif de guidage, à une distance approximativement égale à la largeur du pli désiré par rapport à la partie coudée de l'évidement entre les deux éléments de l'ensemble passif.
  • - et un ensemble actif de guidage, placé au droit de l'élément intérieur et apte à entraîner transversalement la pièce par rapport à la direction de piquage.
at. a passive guide assembly, consisting of two elements, one being placed inside the other during the formation of the fold:
  • the internal element, the two upper and lower faces of which are flat and horizontal, the internal face being substantially in the work plane of the stitching station,
  • - the external element having the shape of a U and enveloping the internal element on one side and the two horizontal faces, these two elements being positioned relative to each other so that it exists between said elements a recess, U-shaped, sufficient to allow the passage of the flexible piece and realizing the formation of the fold, during the passage of the piece in the bent part of said recess,
    b. a correction device comprising:
  • a device for detecting the presence of the part placed, under the passive guide assembly, at a distance approximately equal to the width of the desired fold relative to the bent part of the recess between the two elements of the assembly passive.
  • - And an active guide assembly, placed in line with the interior element and capable of driving the part transversely relative to the direction of stitching.

De manière caractéristique, l'ensemble actif de guidage comprend deux guides actifs, l'un s'appliquant sur la face supérieure de l'élément intérieur et l'autre sur la face intérieure dudit élément, l'élément extérieur comportant deux ouvertures pour le passage respectivement de chaque guide actif, et les guides actifs assurent simultanément le déplacement de la pièce transversalement par rapport à la direction D de piquage dans l'un ou l'autre sens en fonction des instructions données par le dispositif de détection.Typically, the active guide assembly comprises two active guides, one applying to the upper face of the interior element and the other to the interior face of said element, the exterior element having two openings for the passage of each active guide respectively, and the active guides simultaneously ensure the movement of the part transversely with respect to the direction D of stitching in one or the other direction according to the instructions given by the detection device.

Ainsi les deux guides actifs prennent tous deux appui sur la pièce quand elle est en contact avec l'une des faces de l'élément intérieur, mais l'un s'appuyant sur la face supérieure et l'autre sur la face inférieure. Les deux guides agissent en sorte d'assurer de façon coordonnée le déplacement de la pièce en fonction des instructions données par le dispositif de détection. La mise en oeuvre de deux guides actifs, l'un agissant sur la partie supérieure du pli et l'autre sur la partie inférieure du pli, est préférable pour éviter l'accumulation d'étoffe dans la partie coudée de l'évidement entre les deux éléments intérieur et extérieur de l'ensemble passif, accumulation qui créerait un disfonctionnement du dispositif de guidage.Thus the two active guides both take support on the part when it is in contact with one of the faces of the interior element, but one resting on the upper face and the other on the lower face. The two guides act so as to coordinate the movement of the part in accordance with the instructions given by the detection device. The implementation of two active guides, one acting on the upper part of the fold and the other on the lower part of the fold, is preferable to avoid the accumulation of fabric in the bent part of the recess between the two interior and exterior elements of the passive assembly, accumulation which would create a malfunction of the guide device.

De plus la pièce souple est maintenue par les éléments, à l'endroit même où le guide actif va s'appliquer.In addition, the flexible part is held by the elements. the same place where the active guide will apply.

Préférentiellement, le dispositif de détection est un détecteur photo-électrique et la partie inférieure de l'élément extérieur comporte une ouverture destinée à laisser passer le faisceau lumineux et l'élément intérieur présente une surface réfléchissante au droit de ladite ouverture.Preferably, the detection device is a photoelectric detector and the lower part of the external element has an opening intended to allow the light beam to pass and the internal element has a reflecting surface in line with said opening.

Dans le cas de l'application du dispositif selon l'invention à la pose d'une bande élastique sous le pli formé le long du bord de l'étoffe, l'élément intérieur de l'ensemble passif de guidage est une pièce creuse ayant une section droite en forme de U. Les faces planes et horizontales constituant les deux branches du U, et la base du U de l'élément intérieur étant à l'opposé de la base du U de l'élément extérieur. Grâce à cette disposition, la bande élastique est insérée dans l'évidement de l'élément intérieur, puis le pli est formé autour de l'élément intérieur et donc autour de la bande élastique, et présenté au poste de piquage.In the case of the application of the device according to the invention to the laying of an elastic band under the fold formed along the edge of the fabric, the internal element of the passive guide assembly is a hollow part having a U-shaped cross section. The flat and horizontal faces constituting the two branches of the U, and the base of the U of the interior element being opposite the base of the U of the exterior element. Thanks to this arrangement, the elastic band is inserted into the recess of the inner element, then the fold is formed around the inner element and therefore around the elastic band, and presented to the stitching station.

Avantageusement, au moins l'un des deux éléments de l'ensemble passif est escamotable transversalement. Cette disposition facilite l'introduction de la bande élastique dans l'évidement de l'élément intérieur.Advantageously, at least one of the two elements of the passive assembly is retractable transversely. This arrangement facilitates the introduction of the elastic band into the recess of the inner element.

La présente invention sera mieux comprise à la lecture de la description d'un exemple de réalisation et du dessin annexé, dans lequel:

  • Les figures 1 a et 1 b sont des illustrations d'une bande élastique en forme de bracelet (b) et d'une ceinture élastique de pantalon de survêtement (a).
  • La figure 2 est un schéma de piquage de ceinture élastique.
  • La figure 3 est une vue schématique en coupe du dispositif de guidage de l'invention.
  • Les figures 4a et 4b sont des vues schématiques en perspectives de l'élément intérieur (a) et extérieur (b) de l'ensemble passif.
  • La figure 5 est une vue schématique en coupe du poste de piquage.
  • Les figures 6a à 6d montrent les différentes phases d'introduction de la bande élastique et de formation du pli.
  • La figure 7 est une vue schématique en perspective d'une tête de guidage.
The present invention will be better understood on reading the description of an exemplary embodiment and the attached drawing, in which:
  • Figures 1a and 1b are illustrations of an elastic band in the form of a bracelet (b) and an elastic belt of sweatpants (a).
  • Figure 2 is a diagram of stitching of elastic belt.
  • Figure 3 is a schematic sectional view of the guide device of the invention.
  • Figures 4a and 4b are schematic perspective views of the interior (a) and exterior (b) of the passive assembly.
  • Figure 5 is a schematic sectional view of the stitching station.
  • Figures 6a to 6d show the different phases of introduction of the elastic band and formation of the fold.
  • Figure 7 is a schematic perspective view of a guide head.

Les articles 1 tels que les pantalons de survêtements, de jogging, les shorts ont une ceinture élastique 2 obtenue par la pose d'une bande élastique 3, généralement tissée, le long du bord de l'étoffe. Cette bande 3 est préalablement fermée sur elle-même pour former un bracelet, comme cela est illustré à la figure 1 b. Elle est ensuite cousue en rond sur la ceinture tubulaire de l'article 1, soit en la laissant apparente pour empêcher l'article de glisser sur le corps, soit en la dissimulant dans un repli de l'étoffe 9. Dans ce dernier cas, il est nécessaire de former un pli le long du bord de l'étoffe, de placer la bande élastique 3 à l'intérieur du pli et de réaliser la fermeture du pli selon le schéma de piquage de la figure 2. La largeur 1 du pli, depuis le bord 4 de l'étoffe à l'extrémité 5 coudée du pli est supérieure à la largeur de la bande élastique 3 et doit être maintenue aussi constante que possible pendant l'opération de piquage, qui comporte par exemple quatre lignes de piqûres : deux points de chaînettes deux fils 6,7 et un point de recouvrement à deux aiguilles 8,8' dont le fil inférieur 8' cache le bord 4 de l'étoffe. C'est le but du dispositif de l'invnetion que de permettre la formation d'un pli régulier devant le poste de piquage.Articles 1 such as sweatpants, jogging pants, shorts have an elastic belt 2 obtained by applying an elastic band 3, generally woven, along the edge of the fabric. This band 3 is previously closed on itself to form a bracelet, as illustrated in FIG. 1 b. It is then sewn in the round on the tubular belt of article 1, either by leaving it visible to prevent the article from sliding on the body, or by hiding it in a fold of the fabric 9. In the latter case, it is necessary to form a fold along the edge of the fabric, place the elastic band 3 inside the fold and close the fold according to the stitching diagram in Figure 2. The width 1 of the fold , from the edge 4 of the fabric at the bent end 5 of the fold is greater than the width of the elastic band 3 and must be kept as constant as possible during the stitching operation, which comprises for example four lines of stitching : two chain stitches two threads 6,7 and a overlap point with two needles 8,8 'whose lower thread 8' hides the edge 4 of the fabric. It is the purpose of the invnetion device to allow the formation of a regular fold in front of the stitching station.

Le dispositif de guidage (fig.3) comporte deux parties, l'une destinée à la formation du pli et l'autre au guidage transversal de l'étoffe. La partie correspondant à la formation du pli comprend deux pièces 10 et 11, toutes deux en forme de U, dont l'une 11 est placée intérieurement à l'autre 10. La pièce 10, extérieure, présente une partie coudée 12 qui est la base du U ; cette pièce 10 est escamotable transversalement par rapport à la direction D de piquage grâce à l'action du vérin 21. La partie avant 13 - dans le sens D de déplacement de l'étoffe lors du piquage - de la branche supérieure de cette pièce 10 est évasée vers le haut pour faciliter l'introduction de l'étoffe 9, la partie avant 14 de la branche inférieure de cette pièce 10 est oblique par rapport à la direction D de piquage (fig. 4b). La branche supérieure de cette même pièce 10 est percée d'une ouverture 15 destinée au passage de la tête 16 du guide actif supérieur et la branche inférieure est percée de deux ouvertures 17 et 18 destinées l'une 17 au passage de la tête 19 du guide actif inférieur et l'autre 18 destinée au passage du faisceau lumineux provenant du détecteur photo-électrique 20. La pièce 11, intérieure, est escamotable transversalement par rapport à la direction D de piquage, grâce à l'action du vérin 22, en sens inverse de la pièce 10, comme cela sera expliqué plus loin. L'extrémité ouverte du U formée par la pièce 11 est en regard de la partie intérieure coudée 12 de la pièce 10. L'évidement 23 formé entre les deux pièces 10 et 11, lorsque la pièce 11 est à l'intérieur de la pièce 10 en position de formation du pli, a une section droite en forme de U et une hauteur e suffisante pour permettre le passage de l'étoffe 9. L'évidement 24 intérieur à la pièce 11 a une section droite parallélépipédique et une hauteur f suffisante pour permettre le passage de la bande élastique 3. Les hauteurs e et f doivent être largement supérieures à l'épaisseur normale de l'étoffe (pour e) et de la bande élastique (pour f) pour permettre le passage des surépaisseurs dues à la fermeture sur eux-mêmes de ces deux éléments.The guide device (fig. 3) has two parts, one intended for the formation of the fold and the other for transverse guiding of the fabric. The part corresponding to the formation of the fold comprises two parts 10 and 11, both in the shape of a U, one of which 11 is placed inside the other 10. The part 10, exterior, has a bent part 12 which is the base of U; this piece 10 is retractable transversely relative to the direction D of stitching thanks to the action of the jack 21. The front part 13 - in the direction D of movement of the fabric during the stitching - of the upper branch of this piece 10 is flared upward to facilitate the introduction of the fabric 9, the front part 14 of the lower branch of this piece 10 is oblique with respect to the direction D of stitching (fig. 4b). The upper branch of this same part 10 is pierced with an opening 15 intended for the passage of the head 16 of the upper active guide and the lower branch is pierced with two openings 17 and 18 intended for one 17 for the passage of the head 19 of the lower active guide and the other 18 intended for the passage of the light beam coming from the photoelectric detector 20. The part 11, interior, is retractable transversely with respect to the direction of stitching, thanks to the action of the jack 22, in opposite direction of part 10, as will be explained later. The open end of the U formed by the part 11 faces the bent interior part 12 of the part 10. The recess 23 formed between the two parts 10 and 11, when the part 11 is inside the part 10 in the fold formation position, has a U-shaped cross section and a height e sufficient to allow the passage of the fabric 9. The recess 24 inside the part 11 has a rectangular parallelepiped section and a sufficient height f to allow the passage of the elastic band 3. The heights e and f must be much greater than the normal thickness of the fabric (for e) and of the elastic band (for f) to allow the passage of the extra thicknesses due to the closure on themselves of these two elements.

La partie du dispositif de l'invention correspondant au guidage transversal de l'étoffe lors de la formation du pli comprend deux guides actifs 25 et 26 et le dispositif de détection 20. Les deux guides 25 et 26 sont identiques, l'un 25 agissant sur la partie supérieure du pli, l'autre 26 sur la partie inférieure du pli. Chacun de ces guides actifs est constitué d'une tête de guidage 16, fixée a l'extrémité d'un bras 27 qui est articulé autour d'un axe 28. La tête de guidage 16 comprend un galet 29, mobile en rotation, garni sur sa périphérie de dix disques 30, libres en rotation dans des évidements 31 pratiqués radialement dans le galet 29 (fig. 7). Le galet 29 est entraîné en rotation par le moteur pas à pas 32 au moyen de la courroie 33. Le vérin pneumatique 34 permet - en position basse - d'appliquer la tête de guidage 16 contre la face supérieure de la pièce i avec une pression contrôlée par un manomètre-détendeur non représenté, la tête de guidage passant par l'ouverture 15 pratiquée dans la branche supérieure de la pièce 10. En position haute du vérin 34, la tête de piquage est éloignée de la pièce 10.The part of the device of the invention corresponding to the transverse guide of the fabric during the formation of the fold comprises two active guides 25 and 26 and the detection device 20. The two guides 25 and 26 are identical, one acting on the upper part of the fold, the other 26 on the lower part of the fold. Each of these active guides consists of a guide head 16, fixed at the end of an arm 27 which is articulated around an axis 28. The guide head 16 comprises a roller 29, movable in rotation, lined on its periphery of ten discs 30, free to rotate in recesses 31 made radially in the roller 29 (fig. 7). The roller 29 is rotated by the stepping motor 32 by means of the belt 33. The pneumatic cylinder 34 allows - in the low position - to apply the guide head 16 against the upper face of the part i with a pressure controlled by a pressure reducer not shown, the guide head passing through the opening 15 made in the upper branch of the part 10. In the high position of the jack 34, the head nozzle is far from part 10.

Le dispositif de détection 20 consiste en une cellule photo-électrique qui envoie un faisceau lumineux qui est réfléchi sur la face inférieure de la pièce 11. Quand la cellule 20 détecte la présence de l'étoffe 9 lorsque celle-ci coupe le faisceau lumineux ou son absence, elle commande l'action du moteur pas à pas 32 dans un sens ou dans l'autre.The detection device 20 consists of a photoelectric cell which sends a light beam which is reflected on the underside of the piece 11. When the cell 20 detects the presence of the fabric 9 when the latter cuts the light beam or its absence, it controls the action of the stepping motor 32 in one direction or the other.

L'ensemble du dispositif de guidage selon l'invention est placé devant la tête de piquage 35 de façon que la face 36 de la pièce 10 soit sensiblement dans le même plan que la partie supérieure 37 du bras 38 de la machine à coudre. Par ailleurs, quatre galets 39 sont disposés autour du bras 38 de la machine à coudre pour recevoir la bande élastique 3 en forme de bracelet, les deux galets 39 supérieurs étant disposés de telle sorte que la bande élastique 3 repose sur la partie supérieure 37 du bras 38.The assembly of the guide device according to the invention is placed in front of the stitching head 35 so that the face 36 of the piece 10 is substantially in the same plane as the upper part 37 of the arm 38 of the sewing machine. Furthermore, four rollers 39 are arranged around the arm 38 of the sewing machine to receive the elastic band 3 in the form of a bracelet, the two upper rollers 39 being arranged so that the elastic band 3 rests on the upper part 37 of the arm 38.

Le fonctionnement du dispositif est le suivant. Pendant les phases d'introduction de la bande élastique 3, d'une part les têtes de guidage 16 et 19 sont éloignées l'une de l'autre, les vérins 34 étant en position haute, et d'autre part les pièces 10 et 11 sont éloignées l'une de l'autre sous l'action des vérins 21 et 22 (fig. 6a). L'opérateur met en place la bande élastique 3 autour des galets 39, le pied-presseur de la tête de piquage 35 étant levé. Une fois la bande positionnée, la pièce 11 est déplacée sous l'action du vérin 22 dans le sens de la flèche F1 (fig. 6b) pour que la bande 3 passe entre les deux branches en U de la pièce 11. Ensuite la pièce 10 est avancée sous l'action du vérin 21 dans le sens de la flèche F2 (fig. 6c) de manière à envelopper les branches en U de la pièce 11. L'étoffe 9 est introduite manuellement par l'opérateur dans la partie supérieure de l'evidement 23 formé entre les deux pièces 10 et 11 jusqu'à ce que le pli soit formé par glissement de l'étoffe 9 sur les différentes surfaces des deux pièces 10 et 11 formant l'évidement 23 et en particulier la partie coudée 12 de la pièce 10 (fig. 6d). L'étoffe 9 est poussée par l'opérateur dans la direction D de piquage pour le bord oblique 14 de la branche inférieure de la pièce 10 facilite la formation du pli. Les têtes de guidage 16 et 19 sont appliquées sur les branches respectivement supérieure et inférieure de la pièce 11, sous l'action des vérins 34 correspondants, en position basse. De ce fait, les têtes de guidage 16 et 19 pincent l'étoffe 9 contre les deux faces de la pièce 11.The operation of the device is as follows. During the phases of introduction of the elastic band 3, on the one hand the guide heads 16 and 19 are spaced from one another, the jacks 34 being in the high position, and on the other hand the parts 10 and 11 are spaced from each other under the action of the jacks 21 and 22 (fig. 6a). The operator sets up the elastic band 3 around the rollers 39, the presser foot of the stitching head 35 being raised. Once the strip is positioned, the piece 11 is moved under the action of the jack 22 in the direction of the arrow F1 (fig. 6b) so that the strip 3 passes between the two U-shaped branches of the piece 11. Then the piece 10 is advanced under the action of the jack 21 in the direction of the arrow F2 (fig. 6c) so as to wrap the U-shaped branches of the part 11. The fabric 9 is introduced manually by the operator into the upper part of the recess 23 formed between the two parts 10 and 11 until the fold is formed by sliding of the fabric 9 on the different surfaces of the two parts 10 and 11 forming the recess 23 and in particular the bent part 12 of part 10 (fig. 6d). The fabric 9 is pushed by the operator in the direction of stitching for the oblique edge 14 of the lower branch of the part 10 facilitates the formation of the fold. The guide heads 16 and 19 are applied to the upper and lower branches of the part 11 respectively, under the action of the corresponding jacks 34, in the low position. As a result, the guide heads 16 and 19 pinch the fabric 9 against the two faces of the part 11.

Lorsque la cellule photo-électrique 20 est découverte, c'est-à-dire lorsque l'étoffe 9 ne coupe pas le faisceau lumineux au droit de l'ouverture 18, le signal émis par la cellule commande, par l'intermédiaire de moyens de traitements électroniques connus, la rotation du galet 29 de la tête 16 dans le sens de la flèche F 3 (fig. 3) et celle du galet 29 de la tête 19 dans le sens de la flèche F4 jusqu'à ce que le bord 4 de l'étoffe 9 couvre la cellule 20. Lorsque celle-ci est couverte, un signal contraire commande la rotation des galets 29 dans le sens inverse. Les deux galets ont donc des actions simultanées et complémentaires pour positionner le bord 4 de l'étoffe 9 par rapport aux lignes de piquage 8 et 8' pendant l'opération de couture.When the photoelectric cell 20 is discovered, that is to say when the fabric 9 does not cut the light beam at the right of the opening 18, the signal emitted by the control cell, by means of means of known electronic processing, the rotation of the roller 29 of the head 16 in the direction of the arrow F 3 (fig. 3) and that of the roller 29 of the head 19 in the direction of the arrow F4 until the edge 4 of the fabric 9 covers the cell 20. When the latter is covered, an opposite signal controls the rotation of the rollers 29 in the opposite direction. The two rollers therefore have simultaneous and complementary actions to position the edge 4 of the fabric 9 relative to the stitching lines 8 and 8 'during the sewing operation.

Lorsque le début de l'assemblage revient à l'entrée des pièces 10 et 11, celles-ci sont escamotées sous l'action des vérins 21 et 22 dans le sens opposé aux flèches F1 et F2, et les galets 29 sont éloignés sous l'action des vérins 34 pour que l'opérateur puisse terminer le piquage et évacuer l'article 1.When the start of assembly returns to the entry of parts 10 and 11, these are retracted under the action of jacks 21 and 22 in the opposite direction to arrows F1 and F2, and the rollers 29 are spaced apart under the action of the jacks 34 so that the operator can complete the stitching and evacuate article 1.

Dans l'exemple de réalisation décrit ci-dessus, la longeur des branches de la pièce 10 en U est de 40 millimètres, celle des branches de la pièce 11 est de 25 millimètres; l'évidement intérieur e entre les deux pièces 10 et 11 est de 3,5 millimètres ; le diamètre extérieur des têtes de guidage 16 et 19 est de 30 millimètres ; l'évidement intérieur f entre les deux branches de la pièce 11 est de 3 millimètres ; la distance entre la partie intérieure coudée 12 de la pièce 10 et l'extrémité des branches de la pièce 11 est de 10 millimètres. La partie arrière de la pièce 10 - dans le sens D de déplacement de l'étoffe lors du piquage - est à 60 millimètres des aiguilles.In the embodiment described above, the length of the branches of the U-shaped piece 10 is 40 millimeters, that of the branches of the piece 11 is 25 millimeters; the internal recess e between the two parts 10 and 11 is 3.5 millimeters; the outside diameter of the guide heads 16 and 19 is 30 millimeters; the internal recess f between the two branches of the part 11 is 3 millimeters; the distance between the bent interior part 12 of the part 10 and the end of the branches of the part 11 is 10 millimeters. The rear part of the piece 10 - in the direction D of movement of the fabric during the stitching - is 60 millimeters from the needles.

L'exemple décrit ci-dessus est donné à titre d'illustration et n'est pas limitatif de l'invention. On pourra notamment utiliser d' autres types de guide actif, tel que celui décrit dans le brevet français FR-A-2.518.134, c'est-à-dire une roue de guidage dont l'axe de rotation est parallèle à la direction D de piquage et s'appliquant sur l'étoffe 9 avec une pression modulable. On pourra utiliser deux cellules photo-électriques, délimitant une zone à l'intérieur de laquelle les guides actifs 25 et 26 n'agissent plus et correspondant à la tolérance de régularité de la largeur 1 du pli.The example described above is given by way of illustration and is not limitative of the invention. It is possible in particular to use other types of active guide, such as that described in French patent FR-A-2,518,134, that is to say a guide wheel whose axis of rotation is parallel to the direction D of stitching and applying to the fabric 9 with a modular pressure. Two photoelectric cells may be used, delimiting an area within which the active guides 25 and 26 no longer act and corresponding to the regularity tolerance of the width 1 of the fold.

Claims (4)

1. Guiding device for forming a regular fold on a supple piece (9) before a stitching station designed to automatically close the fold, of the type comprising:
a. a passive guiding assembly, consisting of two elements, one (11) being placed inside the other (10) during formation of the fold:
- the inner element (11) of which the two upper and lower faces are plane and horizontal,
- the outer element (10) having the form of a U and enveloping the inner element (11) on one side and the two horizontal faces, these two elements being positioned with respect to each other so that there exists between said elements a U-shaped recess (23) sufficient to allow the passage of the supple piece (9) and effecting formation of the fold, upon passage of the piece (9) in the bent part (12) of said recess (23),
b. a correction device comprising:
- a device (20) for detecting the presence of the piece (9) placed, at a distance approximately equal to the width of the desired fold with respect to the bent part of the recess between the two elements of the passive assembly;
- and an active guiding assembly (25) consisting of at least one active guide, placed level with the inner element (22) and capable of driving the piece (9) transversely with respect to the direction D of stitching,
characterized in that the active guiding assembly comprises two active guides (16, 19), one applied on the upper face of the inner element (11) and the other on the lower face of said element (11), the outer element (10) comprising two openings (15, 17) for the passage of each active guide (16, 19) respectively, and in that the active guides (16, 19) ensure simultaneously the displacement of the piece (9) transversely with respect to the direction D of stitching in one or the other direction as a function of the instructions given by the detection device.
2. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that the lower face of the outer element (10) comprises at least one opening (18), and in that the detection device consists of a photo-electric cell (20) placed level with said opening (18) opposite a reflecting surface of the lower face of the inner element (11).
3. Guiding device for forming a regular fold surrounding a band, particularly an elastic band (3), according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the inner element (11) of the passive assembly is a hollow piece having a U-shaped cross section, the two arms of the U being constituted by the plane, horizontal faces of said element (11) and being opposite the inner bent part (12) of the outer element (10).
4. Device according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the inner (11) and outer (10) elements are transversely retractable.
EP86402640A 1985-11-27 1986-11-27 Active hemming device Expired - Lifetime EP0230170B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8517535A FR2590601B1 (en) 1985-11-27 1985-11-27 GUIDING DEVICE FOR FORMING A FOLD ALONG THE EDGE OF A FABRIC.
FR8517535 1985-11-27

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0230170A2 EP0230170A2 (en) 1987-07-29
EP0230170A3 EP0230170A3 (en) 1987-08-19
EP0230170B1 true EP0230170B1 (en) 1990-07-04

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ID=9325200

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EP86402640A Expired - Lifetime EP0230170B1 (en) 1985-11-27 1986-11-27 Active hemming device

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US (1) US4714036A (en)
EP (1) EP0230170B1 (en)
DE (1) DE3672472D1 (en)
ES (1) ES2016933B3 (en)
FR (1) FR2590601B1 (en)

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0230170A3 (en) 1987-08-19
DE3672472D1 (en) 1990-08-09
EP0230170A2 (en) 1987-07-29
US4714036A (en) 1987-12-22
FR2590601A1 (en) 1987-05-29
FR2590601B1 (en) 1988-02-12
ES2016933B3 (en) 1990-12-16

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