DE102008029851A1 - Compositions for shaping keratinic fibers based on a natural, holding polymer combination - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic compositions containing water, xanthan gum, optionally heat treated, and at least one additional polysaccharide material selected from the group consisting of gum arabic and its derivatives are useful for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic agents for temporary use Forming keratinous fibers containing water, xanthan gum optionally was heat treated and at least one additional Polysaccharide material selected from gum arabic and / or from derivatives of gum arabic contains. Further concerns this invention in addition to the use of such a cosmetic Means for temporary forming and / or shape fixing keratinic fibers, especially human hair, a method for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in which said cosmetic agent finds application.

styling agents for the deformation of keratinous fibers have long been known and find in various design use for building, for refreshment and for fixing hairstyles, which are common in many hair types only obtained using firming agents. Play it hair treatment products that are both permanent and which serve a temporary shaping of the hair, one important role. Temporary shapes that are good To give up support, without the healthy appearance of hair, such as Example whose gloss can affect for example, by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair drier etc. are achieved.

Appropriate Means for temporary shaping contain as shaping Component usually synthetic polymers. preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer, can by means of propellant gases or by a pump mechanism be applied to the hair. Hair gels and hair waxes are however, not usually applied directly to the hair, but rather distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The in means for temporary shaping usually used synthetic polymers are made from corresponding synthetic accessible monomers. Said monomers are from fossil materials such as petroleum by conversion to the corresponding polymer building blocks u. a. under expenditure of Gained energy.

in the Framework of a more sustainable use of nature as a habitat and with the resources it remains desirable for cosmetic products to use only such cosmetic raw materials, which means using as little as possible of energy from something called renewable raw materials are accessible. However, you can a reduction in quantity or even an exchange of said synthetic Polymers are only made if the replacement is for has the intended use desired properties and the keratin-containing fibers a sufficient, stable hold Ensure form.

Of further are the replacement polymers on a natural basis the bounce and suppleness of the form-fixed, keratin-containing Obtained fibers. The formation of visible to the naked eye Polymer particles on the keratin-containing fibers must be avoided. Furthermore, the keratin-containing fiber must not look dull, but should of course shine.

From the publication DE-A1-102 37 257 For example, cosmetic hair styling compositions containing a heat-treated xanthan gum as a setting polymer are known. However, the shape fixation of the cosmetic products listed therein is in need of improvement.

task It was therefore the object of the present invention to provide a shape-fixing, To provide cosmetic composition, mainly to entirely based on renewable resources, the an improved shape fixation causes and the aforementioned disadvantages does not have. It should as possible on the use fossil-based synthetic polymers be waived.

• (a) Wasser,
• (b) Xanthangummi, das gegebenenfalls wärmebehandelt wurde,
• (c) mindestens ein zusätzliches Polysaccharidmaterial, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus Gummi Arabicum und dessen Derivaten.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular of human hair, containing

• (a) water,
• (b) xanthan gum optionally heat treated,
• (c) at least one additional polysaccharide material selected from the group consisting of gum arabic and its derivatives.

Under keratinic fibers are according to the invention furs, Wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand.

The active compound combination (b) and (c) according to the invention provides an aqueous solution in an aqueous strengthening effect on the keratin-containing fibers and improved film formation. The resulting film has the previously mentioned disadvantages of the prior art to a reduced degree.

The Cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferred free of synthetic, film-forming polymers and synthetic, strengthening polymers, each based on fossil fuels were manufactured. Among fossil raw materials according to the invention Understood substances whose origin is derived from fossil fuels derives.

Under film-forming polymers are those polymers to understand which when drying a continuous film on the skin, the hair or leave the nails. Such film formers can in a variety of cosmetic products such as Face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, Hair conditioners, shampoos or nail polishes are used. Prefers In particular, those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. Let it be to produce appropriate solutions that are simple Apply or further process.

Under Film-forming polymers continue to be understood as meaning such polymers, when used in 0.01 to 20% by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution are able to deposit on the hair a transparent polymer film. The film-forming polymers can be both anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic, permanent cationic or temporary be cationically charged.

The cosmetic agents according to the invention Mandatory water. The proportion of water in the inventive Means is preferred according to the invention 10 to 95 wt .-%, particularly preferably 30 to 90 wt .-%, very particularly preferably 50 to 80 wt .-% - each based on the weight of the entire agent.

Farther contain the inventive cosmetic agents Xanthan gum optionally heat treated. Xanthan gum is a natural, renewable resource and is considered to be an anionic polysaccharide from the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris excreted.

The molecular weight of the xanthan gum used is preferably 2 × 10 ⁶ to 20 × 10 ⁶ g / mol.

When Molecule building blocks contains xanthan gum D-glucose, D-mannose, D-glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate in one any molar ratio of 28 to 30 to 20 to 17 too 5.1 to 6.3.

The Polymer backbone of xanthan gum forms from a Cellulose chain of β-1,4-bound glucose units.

xanthan contains structural units of the following formula

In the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, the optionally heat-treated xanthan gum is preferably present in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 4% by weight, in particular from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic product.

• – wärmebehandeltes Xanthangummi oder
• – eine Mischung aus Xanthangummi und wärmebehandeltem Xanthangummi.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains as xanthan gum

• - heat treated xanthan gum or
• A mixture of xanthan gum and heat treated xanthan gum.

at Application of a mixture of xanthan gum and heat-treated Xanthan gum has been found to be particularly effective, the Xanthan gum and the heat-treated xanthan gum in one Volume ratio range of 2 to 1 to 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 2 to 1 to 10.

Under Heat-treated xanthan gum according to the invention is xanthan gum to understand what heat of at least 40 ° C is suspended. The resulting heat-treated xanthan gum has an improved dispersibility and lets dispersing faster in water than xanthan gum, none Heat treatment was suspended.

The preferably comprises suitable heat-treated xanthan gum in a 1 wt .-% - aqueous solution, a viscosity of at least 25,000 to 40,000 mPa · s (Brookfield DV-I Viscometer, Spindle # 6 at 23 ° C and 10 rpm).

Prefers suitable heat-treated xanthan gums provide Preparation of a 1 wt .-% - aqueous solution a pH of 4.0 to 6.0 at 23 ° C.

The heat-treated according to the invention preferred Xanthan gum was obtained by tempering xanthan gum at one Temperature of at least 60 ° C, in particular of at least 100 ° C received. The tempering can by a variety caused by known methods, such as by furnace, Fluid bed, infrared or microwave heat treatment.

in the It is in turn the framework of the aforementioned heat treatments preferred if the xanthan gum before the heat treatment a water content of less than 25% by weight, in particular less than 8 wt .-%, most preferably of less than 3 wt .-%, having.

It is further preferred according to the invention in the according to the invention means such heat-treated Use xanthan gum that was obtained in the xanthan gum with a water content of less than 25% by weight at one temperature of at least 60 ° C (in particular of at least 100 ° C), heat treated for at least 30 minutes.

It is particularly preferred in the invention according to the invention means such heat-treated Use xanthan gum containing xanthan gum with a water content less than 8% by weight at a temperature of at least 60 ° C (in particular of at least 100 ° C), for at least Heat treated for 30 minutes.

The preferred duration of the aforementioned heat treatments of Xanthan gum - especially with said water content - at a temperature of at least 60 ° C (in particular of at least 100 ° C) is at least 1 hour.

The particularly preferred duration of the aforementioned heat treatments of xanthan gum - especially with the preferred water content a temperature of at least 60 ° C (in particular of at least 100 ° C) is at least 2.5 hours.

Therefore in turn, it is preferred according to the invention in the according to the invention means such heat-treated Use xanthan gum that was obtained in the xanthan gum with a water content of less than 25% by weight at one temperature of at least 60 ° C (in particular at least 100 ° C), for heat treated for at least 1 hour.

According to the invention it is preferred in the agent according to the invention to use such heat-treated xanthan gum, the in which xanthan gum having a water content of less as 8% by weight at a temperature of at least 100 ° C, is heat treated for at least 1 hour.

Most preferably suitable heat-treated xanthan gum is from Kelco under the tradename Amaze XT ^® (at least 99% active substance, INCI name: Dehydroxanthan gum) sold.

Next optionally heat-treated xanthan gum the hydrous cosmetic agent additionally at least a polysaccharide material selected from rubber Arabic and its derivatives.

In Preferably, the inventive The optionally heat-treated xanthan gum in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 4 wt .-%, in particular of 0.2 Wt .-% to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic Agent.

It According to the invention, gum arabic is preferred in the composition according to the invention in an amount from 0.2% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular from 2% by weight to 6% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic product to use.

Further was found to be optionally heat treated Xanthan gum (b) and said additional polysaccharide material (c) preferably in a weight ratio range of 10 from 1 to 1 to 30, in particular from 8 to 1 to 1 to 25 are.

rubber Arabicum is a dried exudate of acacia. There are those Acacia species preferred in tropical and subtropical Regions of Africa, India, Central and North America occur - like for example, the species Acacia senegal, Acacia seyal, Acacia karroo and Acacia laeta-, the most important being those in the southern Nile regions native to Art Acacia senegal is.

rubber Arabic is present as a branched polysaccharide whose main chain from β (1 → 3) branched D-galactopyranose units consists. The main components as building blocks of gum arabic are L-rhamnose, L-arabinose, D-galactose, and D-glucuronic acid. According to the invention, preferably suitable gum arabic has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 1200,000 g / mol.

To improve the effects according to the invention of said active substance combinations of optionally heat-treated xanthan gum and gum arabic (derivative), the further addition of at least one compound of the formula (I) is preferably suitable, HO-CH ₂ - (CHOH) _n -CH ₂ -OH (I) wherein n is an integer from 1 to 4.

Especially Effectively show the inventive When they are compounds of the formula (I) glycerol and / or Sorbitol included.

Further proved an amount of the compounds of formula (I) in Range from 0.2 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 7% by weight as advantageous.

• (i) – Xanthangummi, – Gummi Arabicum, – Sorbitol
• (ii) – wärmebehandeltes Xanthangummi, – Gummi Arabicum, – Sorbitol
• (iii) – Xanthangummi, – wärmebehandeltes Xanthangummi, – Gummi Arabicum, – Sorbitol
• (iv) – Xanthangummi, – Gummi Arabicum, – Glyzerin
• (v) – wärmebehandeltes Xanthangummi, – Gummi Arabicum, – Glyzerin
• (vi) – Xanthangummi, – wärmebehandeltes Xanthangummi, – Gummi Arabicum, – Glyzerin.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one of the combinations (i) to (vi):

• (i) - xanthan gum, - gum arabic, - sorbitol
• (ii) heat-treated xanthan gum, gum arabic, sorbitol
• (iii) xanthan gum, heat-treated xanthan gum, gum arabic, sorbitol
• (iv) xanthan gum, - Gum Arabic, - Glycerine
• (v) - heat-treated xanthan gum, - gum arabic, - glycerin
• (vi) - xanthan gum, - heat treated xanthan gum, - gum arabic, - glycerol.

in this connection Again, in particular, the preferred embodiments apply with regard to the heat treated xanthan gum and the preferred quantities of all components.

A Another possibility the invention Effects of the combination of active ingredients optionally heat-treated To increase xanthan gum with gum arabic (or its derivatives) consists in the inventive, cosmetic Means additionally at least one galactomannan, in particular Locust bean gum and / or guar gum, to admit.

The Galactomannan of locust bean gum has a preferred molecular weight from 300,000 to 360000 g / mol. The galactomannan of locust bean gum comprises a chain of β- (1, 4) -linked D-mannopyranoside units, on which α- (1,6) -linked α-galactopyranoside units The content of mannose / galactose is between 5: 1 to 4: 1 lies.

guar gum For example, by grinding the endosperm, the seeds of the in India-based tree Cyamopsis tetragonolobus won (35% of semen content). The soluble part is a non-ionic one Polysaccharide of β- (1,4) -glycosidically linked D-mannopyranose units with α- (1,6) -linked D-galactopyranose in the side chain, one D-galactose unit each on 2 mannose units.

When Cosmetic agents of this embodiment are suitable preferably those containing the additional galactomannan, in particular the locust bean gum, in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 0.5 Wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.2 wt .-%, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic product.

invention Agents in which the guar gum is preferably used as galactomannan this preferably contains in an amount of 0.01 % By weight to 0.2% by weight, in particular from 0.05% by weight to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic product.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic agent additionally as galactomannan, in particular Locust bean gum and guar gum, in particular in each of the previously mentioned preferred amounts.

It has been found to be preferred, in addition to the at least to use a nonionic surfactant. These surfactants can According to the invention already have emulsifying effect.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare oder verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 20 Einheiten Glyzerin an lineare oder verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, an lineare oder verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dermofeel^® G 10 LW (Straetmans Chemische Produkte) erhältlichen Typen,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I)in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II)in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkylolioglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III),
  
  in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden können. Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-IV-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R⁷CO-NR⁸-CH₂-(CHOH)₄CH₂OH (E4-IV)Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. technischer Mischungen dieser Säuren steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol with linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, of linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dermofeel ^® G 10 LW (Straetman's Chemical Products) available types,
• - With a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms material atoms to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkylolioglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3,
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),
  
  R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. For the fatty acid N-alkyl Polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid-IV-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH (E4-IV) Preferably, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides corresponding to formula (E4-IV) are used in which R ⁸ is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or technical mixtures of these acids. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

• – Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 20 Einheiten Glyzerin an lineare oder verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 20 Einheiten Glyzerin an lineare oder verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoff-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Zuckertensiden vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß obiger Formel (E4-II),
• – Mischungen aus den vorgenannten Tensiden.

Of these, in turn, such nonionic surfactants are particularly preferably suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, which are selected from

• Addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol onto linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• Addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol to linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the above formula (E4-II),
• - Mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants.

The nonionic surfactants are preferably present in an amount of 0.005 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent according to the invention, contained in the agent according to the invention.

Further contain the agents according to the invention preferred additionally at least one plant extract.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

suitable Plant extracts are made by extraction with organic solvents (such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, gasoline, Benzene, chloroform) or by steam distillation. According to the invention, especially the extracts are made Bamboo, flax seed, water lily, green tea, oak bark, nettle, Witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, Horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root prefers.

Of the additional plant extract is preferred in the invention Agent in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of cosmetic agent, included.

It is preferred according to the invention - in particular when the agent according to the invention is formulated as a cream is - that the inventive cosmetic Agent additionally contains at least one oil phase.

Under an oil phase is understood according to the invention a at 20 ° C liquid phase, which at 20 ° C to less than 1 g in 100 g of water dissolves.

The oil phase preferably has a viscosity of up to 1000 mPas, (Brookfield, RVDV II +, 20 ° C, 20 revolutions per minute, spindle no. 1).

In a preferred embodiment, the oil of the oil phase is selected from at least one oil of the group that is formed
vegetable oils,
animal oils,
Esterölen,
liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, di- and tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C ₆ - to C ₂₂ -fatty acids with glycerol.

preferred Vegetable oils are selected from at least a representative of the group formed from amaranth oil, Sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, Castor oil, sesame oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, Orange oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, Wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid ones Proportions of coconut oil.

Preferred ester oils are selected from esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Mono, di- and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol which are preferably usable as oil in the oil phase are in particular the triglyceride esters of capric and caprylic acids (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric triglycerides), for example obtainable as a commercial product Cognis under the name myritol ^® 312th

The additional oil phase is preferred in the invention Agent in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.

Farther Means according to the invention which are additionally suitable contain at least one fatty substance.

Under a fatty substance according to the invention such Compounds understood to be less than 1 at 20 ° C g are soluble in 100 g of water.

Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from at least one fatty substance of the group which is formed from candelilla wax, shea butter, carnauba wax, beeswax, coconut fat, C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ fatty acids (in particular palmitic acid, stearic acid)

Of the additional fatty substance is preferred in the invention Agent in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 35 wt .-%, in particular from 1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of cosmetic agent, included.

The Cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferred free of synthetic, film-forming polymers and synthetic, strengthening polymers, each based on fossil fuels were manufactured. Among fossil raw materials according to the invention Understood substances whose origin is derived from fossil fuels derives.

Under film-forming polymers are those polymers to understand which when drying a continuous film on the skin, the hair or leave the nails. Such film formers can in a variety of cosmetic products such as Face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, Hair conditioners, shampoos or nail polishes are used. Prefers In particular, those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. Let it be to produce appropriate solutions that are simple Apply or further process.

Under Film-forming polymers continue to be understood as meaning such polymers, when used in 0.01 to 20% by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution are able to deposit a polymer film on the hair. The film-forming polymers can be both anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic, permanently cationic or temporarily cationically charged.

The Cosmetic agent according to the invention may - preferred in compliance with the maxim, to use only those raw materials that do not have their source in fossil fuels - continue contain additional auxiliaries and additives.

When suitable auxiliaries and additives are in particular care substances to call.

The agents according to the invention contain the components (b) and (c) in an aqueous cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. For the purpose of temporary hair shaping are such carriers for example, lotions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, creams, Gels, foams, pomades, waxes or other preparations, which are suitable for use on the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol or 1,3-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

When Nurturing agent can be a cationic surfactant used. Prefers are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Since the additive surface-active However, substances negatively affect the hydrophobic properties of the hydrophobicized silica and thus on the stability of the cosmetic agent according to the invention can, the amount of nourishing surfactant is carefully on to vote the overall composition. Preferably is on the Additional surfactant ingredients omitted.

When Care substance are also caring polymers.

A first group of caring polymers are the cationic polymers. Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or Sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropy l Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Prefers are the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives on plant Base.

Further Careful polymers which can be used according to the invention are amphoteric polymers.

When Nursing material may further contain at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives can be used.

there are according to the invention such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors, usually the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned. Particularly preferred Vitamins belonging to the B group or to the vitamin B complex, most preferably vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).

When Care substance is also a series of carboxylic acids.

In the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids may in particular be advantageous. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of 1 up to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, very particularly preferred are those having a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain.

Further suitable care substances are protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives, wherein the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, is preferred. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda), Crosilk ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course The teaching of the invention includes all isomers Forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates use.

Farther are as a care lipids and oil body, for example vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and ester oils, enzymes and Pearl extracts suitable.

Next The care substances can also other auxiliaries and additives be added.

By Adding a UV filter can both the preparations itself, as well as the treated fibers from harmful Influences of UV radiation are protected. It may therefore be advantageous to the inventive cosmetic agents additionally at least one UV filter admit. The suitable UV filters are subject to their Structure and its physical properties are not general Restrictions. Rather, all are suitable in the cosmetics sector usable UV filter whose absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) region. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. An example is here 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb ^® S 5) mentioned.

In a particular embodiment contains the inventive Cosmetic agents further comprise one or more substantive dyes. This allows, when using the agent, the treated keratin Fiber not only temporarily structured, but at the same time also dyed. This may be desirable in particular if only a temporary coloring for example wished with eye-catching fashion colors, the by simply washing back out of the keratin fiber can be removed.

Farther can the cosmetic invention Medium alkalizing, usually alkali or Alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. preferred Alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are within this group prefers. Also, the use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is possible.

One second object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic By means of the first subject of the invention for temporary Forming and / or shape fixing keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.

One third subject of the invention is a method for temporary Forming keratinous fibers, especially human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent of the first Subject of the invention applied to the keratinic fibers becomes.

It has been found to be preferred when the keratinic fibers after the action of the cosmetic products of the first subject of the invention do not rinse and leave on the fiber.

The The following examples are intended to form the subject of the present invention explain without limiting it in any way.

Examples

The following commercial products were used: Plantacare® ^® 818 UP C8-14-Alkylpolyglucoside (about 51-53% Akticsubstanzgehalt INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis) Euxyl ^® PE 9010 Mixture of 90% by weight of 2-phenoxyethanol and 10% by weight of 3- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -1,2-propanediol (100% by weight of active substance, INCI name: phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol) (Schälke & Mayr ) Dermofeel ^® G 10 LW Decaglyceryl monolaurate (50% by weight of active substance dissolved in water, HLB 15, INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Aqua) (Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) Tego ^® Care 450 Stearylglucoside (INCI name: polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, HLB 11, solid) (Evonik Degussa)

1.0 Styling paste for modeling

Table 1: RG raw materials Wt .-% 1 water 56.60 1 sodium hydroxide 0.50 1 Burdock root extract 0.10 1 sorbitol 2.10 1 Plantacare® ^® 818 UP 5.00 2 xanthan gum 0.15 2 heat-treated xanthan gum 1.20 2 Gum arabic 0.30 2 stearic acid 4.00 2 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 3.00 2 Carob flour 0.10 2 Guar gum 0.05 2 palmitic 2.00 2 candelilla 3.50 2 isopropyl 7.00 2 Shea butter 1.00 2 carnauba 7.00 2 beeswax 5.00 3 Euxyl PE 9010 ^® 1.00 3 lactic acid 0.08 3 Perfume 0.50

production:

Step I

In One vessel was labeled with RG1 Presented raw materials of Table 1. The mixture was at 75 ° C heated with stirring.

Step II

In a second vessel, the raw materials labeled with RG2 were presented in Table 1. The Mixture was heated to 75 ° C with gentle stirring.

Step III

When both mixtures were tempered to 75 ° C, the contents became of the first vessel with vigorous stirring transferred to the second vessel. After completion of the addition was for at least 15 minutes Strongly stirred.

Step IV

The The raw materials of Table 1 marked with RG3 were used in the second Put the vessel and the resulting mixture for Stirred to homogeneity for at least 10 minutes.

The resulting styling paste was ideal for the separation of individual Sections of hair. A matte effect was achieved. The after application The styling paste made hairstyle received a strong hold and was remodelable.

2.0 styling cream for taming flying hair

Table 2: RG raw materials Wt .-% 1 water 59.5 1 Glycerin (vegetable) 5.16 1 Plantacare® ^® 818 UP 4.50 2 Shea butter 1.50 2 stearic acid 4.00 2 palmitic 4.00 2 sesame oil 0.10 2 Linseed extract (in sunflower oil) 0.20 2 candelilla 2.00 2 isopropyl 10.00 2 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 7.00 3 Gum arabic 0.50 3 heat-treated xanthan gum 0.50 4 Euxyl PE 9010 ^® 1.00 4 lactic acid 0.04 4 Perfume 0.50

production:

Step 1

In a first vessel became those marked RG2 Raw materials of Table 2 at 85 ° C with stirring heated until the phase became homogeneous.

Step II

One second vessel was identified with those labeled RG1 Raw materials of Table 2 filled and the mixture below Stirring heated to 60 ° C. It was long stirred until the mixture was homogeneous and all lumps had solved.

Step III

The Raw materials of Table 2 labeled with RG3 were added to the mixture added to the second vessel and under strong stirring incorporated. Subsequently was the mixture is heated to 85 ° C and at least 20 Stirred to homogeneity for minutes.

Step 4

After this both mixtures were heated to 85 ° C, the mixture became of the second vessel to the mixture of the first Given vessel. It was then heated to 80 ° C tempered and stirred for a period of 100 minutes.

Step 5

thereupon The mixture was cooled to 40 ° C with stirring and then the raw materials labeled with RG4 in Table 2 added. In conclusion, at least 15 minutes Roughened to homogeneity and then the Allow mixture to cool to ambient.

The resulting styling cream tamed stubborn Hair. The resulting hairstyle got a light hold and shone Naturally.

3.0 styling gel

Table 3: RG Ingredient % 1 water 78.04 2 lactic acid 0.16 2 Sodium benzoate 0.30 2 Ash Tree Bark Extract 0.20 2 Hops extract 0.20 2 Bamboo extract 0.20 3 Xanthan gum 1.00 3 Gum arabic 4.00 3 Guar gum 0.30 3 Carob flour 0.40 4 ethanol 14.00 5 sorbitol 0.70 5 Tego Care 450 0.10 5 Dermofeel G 10 LW 0.10 5 Plantacare 818 UP 0.10 5 Perfume 0.10 5 water 0.10

Step 1

The raw materials of Table 3 marked with RG1 were in a first vessel with stirring.

step 2

The The raw materials of Table 3 marked with RG2 were used in the first Place the vessel while stirring. It was stir until the solution is homogeneous and it was clear.

step 3

The raw materials of Table 3 marked with RG3 were indicated in Place in the first vessel with vigorous stirring. It was also left stirring until the raw materials were dissolved and the approach was homogeneous and smooth.

Step 4

The Raw materials of Table 3 labeled with RG4 were stirred placed in the first vessel. After that was up to Homogeneity stir.

Step 5

The The raw materials of Table 3 marked with RG5 were used in a second Place the vessel, heat and until homogeneous the mixture stirred.

Step 6

The homogeneous mixture from the second vessel was transferred to the first vessel. The resulting mixture was in the first vessel stirred until the complete batch was homogeneous.

The resulting styling gel tamed the stubborn Hair of the subject. The resulting hairstyle got a lot good grip and shone naturally.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 10237257 A1 [0007]
• - DE 19738866 [0054]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0084]

Claims (15)

Cosmetic agent for temporary reshaping keratinic fibers, especially human hair, containing (A) Water, (b) xanthan gum optionally heat treated has been, (c) at least one additional polysaccharide material, selected from the group formed from gum arabic and its derivatives. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized that it is xanthan gum heat-treated as xanthan gum or a mixture of xanthan gum and heat treated Contains xanthan gum. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the optionally heat-treated Xanthan gum in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 4 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 wt .-% to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of cosmetic agent, is included. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the additional polysaccharide material in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular of 0.2 Wt .-% to 6 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic Means, is included. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the optionally heat-treated Xanthan gum (b) and said polysaccharide material (c) in one Weight ratio range of 10 to 1 to 1 to 30, in particular from 8 to 1 to 1 to 25, is included. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the heat-treated Xanthan gum in a 1% by weight aqueous solution a viscosity of at least 25,000 to 40,000 mPa · s (Brookfield DV-I Viscometer, spindle # 6 at 23 ° C and 10 rpm). Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the heat-treated Xanthan gum was obtained in the xanthan gum with a water content less than 25% by weight at a temperature of at least 60 ° C (in particular of at least 100 ° C), for at least Heat treated for 30 minutes. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the heat-treated Xanthan gum was obtained in the xanthan gum with a water content less than 8% by weight at a temperature of at least 60 ° C (in particular of at least 100 ° C), for at least Heat treated for 30 minutes. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the heat-treated Xanthan gum was obtained in the xanthan gum with said water content at said temperature for at least 1 hour (in particular at least 2.5 hours) is heat treated. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that additionally at least one compound of the formula (I) is contained, HO-CH ₂ - (CHOH) _n -CH ₂ -OH (I) wherein n is an integer from 1 to 4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized that as compounds of the formula (I) glycerol and / or sorbitol are included. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 to 11, characterized in that additionally at least a galactomannan, in particular locust bean gum and / or guar Rubber, is included. Cosmetic composition according to claim 12, characterized in that that the galactomannan is present in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% by weight to 0.2% by weight, in each case based on the Weight of the cosmetic product is included. Use of a cosmetic product according to one of claims 1 to 13 for temporary forming and / or shape fixing keratinic fibers, in particular human Hair. Method for temporary transformation keratinischer Fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 13 is applied to the keratinic fibers.