CZ20013016A3 - Cosmetic composition, cosmetic method, use of a polymer containing cation, use of a preparation containing polyhydric alcohol - Google Patents

Abstract

A leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: a) from about 6 % to from about 20 % of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof, and b) a cation containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; wherein said composition comprises less than 4 % of an anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant. The compositions of the invention display high moisturisation efficacy without the associated high levels of tacks, as well as good rheological, absorption and insulation properties, in addition to skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

Description

Cosmetic composition, cosmetic method, use of a polymer containing a cation, use of a composition containing a polyhydric alcohol.

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions which have a high moisturizing capability without causing a sticky feeling to the skin. Furthermore, the compositions exhibit good spreading properties and good absorbency characteristics when used, as well as providing a pleasant skin feel, promoting smoothness and smoothness of the skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The skin is made up of several layers of cells that are covered and protected by keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the basis of its structure. The outer of these layers, referred to as the horn skin layer, is known to be composed of 25 nm clusters of proteins surrounded by layers of 8 nm thick. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents penetrate into the membrane of the corneal layer of the skin and by delipidization (i.e., removing lipids from the corneal layer of the skin) disrupt its integrity. This disruption of the skin surface results in an unpleasant sensation and may eventually allow the surfactant or solvent to interact with keratin, thereby causing irritation.

It is now known that maintaining a suitable water gradient across the corner layer of the skin is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered to be a softener of the horn-like layer of skin, comes from within the body. If the humidity is too low, as in a cold climate, there is a lack of water in the outer layers of the horn-like skin layer for proper tissue softening, and the skin begins to peel and itch begins. The permeability of the skin is also somewhat reduced if there is a lack of water in the corner layer of the skin. On the other hand, too much water on the outside of the skin causes the horn-like layer of skin to ultimately absorb and bind a quantity of water equal to three to five times its own weight. This swells and wrinkles the skin, resulting in approximately two to three times the permeability of the skin to water and other polar molecules.

• ·

Thus, there is a need for a means to help the cornered skin layer retain its barrier property and water retention capability to an optimum degree, despite the harmful interactions that the skin may encounter during washing, work and recreation.

The desired properties of cream and lotion formulations are: general skin feel, water retention, moisturizing, absorption, and skin rubbing characteristics. The sensation in the skin caused by the composition and felt by the consumer as the softness or smoothness of the skin depends on the emollients used to form a film or layer upon application to the skin. The absorption and rub-in characteristics of the composition depend on its physical behavior under conditions of mechanical stress, which is influenced by the rheological profile of the composition.

It is known that many cosmetic compositions in the form of cream and lotion provide varying degrees of effect in terms of softening, barrier function and water retention (humidification). In order to provide the skin with a high degree of moisturization, it is necessary to include humectants similar to polyhydric alcohols, such as glycerin, in the composition. However, skin compositions with high levels of polyhydric alcohols and thus a high moisturizing ability are perceived by the consumer as unpleasant, since such compositions leave very sticky residues when applied to the skin.

Thus, there is a need to develop compositions that exhibit a low level of stickiness while providing a high level of moisturizing as well as providing a pleasant skin feel, and promoting the suppleness and smoothness of the skin.

WO97 / 27 838 discloses compositions comprising a polymer film forming agent, e.g., polyquaternium-10, a hydroxy acid, a physical peeling agent, and a carrier that can be used to improve skin smoothness. It is disclosed that the inclusion of a polymer film forming agent in hydroxy acid containing compositions has an unexpected effect on enhancing the beneficial effect of these compositions on skin smoothness.

Polymer film forming agents, such as polyquaternium-10, are described in US Patent 5,103,763 as skin sensation modifying compounds that are suitable for skin care compositions and are resistant to removal when skin wash. Examples describe compositions comprising 4% glycerin and 0.2% polyquaternia-10. The compositions may further comprise softening agents in combination with cationic surfactants. Further, U.S. Pat. No. 4,938,951 discloses compositions comprising evaporating solvents, polymer forming agents, and polymerization agents. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4444 film and topically active agents. Compositions are provided which provide enhancement of the effective activity of a locally active agent, and in particular that the film-forming polymer has the ability to enhance the effective activity of a locally active agent.

Personal care compositions containing water-soluble polyols such as glycerin and cationic film-forming polymers such as polyquaternium-10 are described in WO96 / 17 917 and WO96 / 17 916. However, such compositions also contain 4 or more percent of anionic or amphoteric surfactants and is intended to be used as articles to be used in the form of a wash.

It has now been unexpectedly found that the inclusion of a cation-containing polymer in cosmetic compositions left on the skin and containing effective amounts of polyhydric alcohols results in a composition having a low level of tack. The compositions also have good adhesion, insulating properties and water retention properties, in addition to the pleasant skin sensation, promoting suppleness and smoothness of the skin, and excellent skin moisturizing characteristics.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In one embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin and which can then be left on the skin, comprising:

a. from 6% to 20% of polyhydric alcohols, or mixtures thereof; and

b. a cation-containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof;

wherein said composition comprises less than 4% anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants.

The compositions of the present invention exhibit high wetting performance without being associated with considerable tackiness, have good rheological, absorbent and insulating properties, in addition to provide a pleasant skin feel, and promote skin suppleness and smoothness.

In a second embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic method of treating the skin by applying to the skin a composition of the present invention.

• 9 9

999999 99 999 9 · • · ······ • 999 99 99 99 99 99 99

In a third embodiment, the present invention provides the use of a cation-containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; to reduce the level of stickiness of the skin using skin care compositions containing from 6% to 20% polyhydric alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

In a fourth embodiment, the present invention provides the use of a composition comprising from 6% to 20% polyhydric alcohols, or mixtures thereof; and a cation-containing polymer which is selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof for application to the skin and which can then be left on the skin.

The compositions of the present invention comprise a polyhydric alcohol together with an essential constituent, which is a cation-containing polymer, as well as various optional other ingredients as described below. All levels and ratios are based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise stated. The chain lengths and degrees of substitution with ethoxy groups are also given based on the average weight.

As used herein, the term "adherence" or "adhesion" in connection with a composition left after application to the skin means the ability of the composition to easily bind to the skin surface where the composition has been applied, under low pressure and within a short period of time.

As used herein, the term "tackiness" or "tackiness" is a term frequently used by consumers to describe their sense of tackiness, whether actual or perceived in contact with the composition.

As used herein, the term "retained" in the skin care composition means that it is intended to be used without washing, so that after application of the composition to the skin, the composition is left on the skin preferably for at least 15 minutes, more preferably at least 30 minutes, even more preferably. at least about 1 hour and most preferably at least several hours, for example up to about 12 hours.

As used herein, the term " cation-containing polymer " means a polymer having 2% molecular weight or more, preferably 5% molecular weight or more, or even more preferably 10% molecular weight or more of monomers having a positive charge at pH 4.

As used herein, the term "ampholytic" means a polymer that contains cationic and anionic monomers.

As used herein, the term "copolymer" refers to the association of more than one chemically distinct monomer.

As used herein, the term "zwitterionic" means a compound that carries both positive and negative charges and exists as a dipolar ion over a wide pH range.

As used herein, the term "amphoteric" means a compound that behaves as a cation at low pH and as an anion at high pH. In the middle pH range, called the isoelectric point, the compound carries both positive and negative charges, i.e. it is a dipolar ion.

As used herein, the term "basic" refers to a polymer that exhibits an increasing positive charge as the pH decreases.

As used herein, the term "skin conditioning agent" means a substance capable of providing the skin with cosmetic benefits such as moisturizing, promoting the ability to retain or retain water or moisture within the skin, softening the skin, enhancing the visual appearance of the skin surface, soothing the skin, softening the skin and improving feeling in the skin.

As used herein, the term "non-barrier" means that the component described herein does not substantially prevent the passage of air and moisture through the skin surface.

The present compositions may be used for any suitable purpose. The present compositions are particularly suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like. The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of emulsions composed of one or more oil phases contained in the aqueous phase.

Polyhydric alcohols

As an essential ingredient, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one polyhydric alcohol. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 6% to 20%, more preferably from 7% to 15%, and in particular from 8% to 12% by weight of polyhydric alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols suitable for use in the present invention include polyalkylene glycols and more preferred alkylene polyols and derivatives thereof, including propylene glycol, dipropropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropylsorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, hexyllenitol, glucose, glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol), hexanetriol (e.g.

1,2,6-hexanetriol), trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, glycerin, ethyloxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin.

• · · · ·· 99 • "· · · · · 9 ··· ··· • ···· 9 ·· ·· · ··· · _Λ * 9 9 9 9 9 9 99

Q 9999 · 999 99 99999

Preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, hexanetriol and propoxylated glycerin, or mixtures thereof.

The most preferred polyhydric alcohols suitable for use in the present invention are glycerin and polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof.

In order to provide improved adhesion properties, the weight ratio of cation-containing polymer to polyhydric alcohol is in the range of 1: 200 to 1: 1, and more preferably in the range of 1: 100 to 1: 5.

Polymers containing cations

As a further essential component, the compositions herein comprise at least one cation-containing polymer as defined herein which is selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.05% to 5%, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight of the cation-containing polymers, or their cations mixtures.

Preferably, the cationic polymers are water-soluble, dispersible or swellable. By "water-swellable" is meant the ability of cation-containing polymers to increase in volume or expand in aqueous solution.

Suitable cationic polymers for the compositions of the present invention include cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, cationic copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone; cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or derivatives thereof, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, Polyquaternium-2, and quaternized chitosan or mixtures thereof. Preferred cation-containing polymers useful in the compositions of the present invention are cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof.

Suitable examples of cationic polysaccharides include, but are not limited to: cellulose; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose; cationic cellulose derivatives having a molecular weight in the range of 120,000 to 2,000,000, including quaternary ammonium groups, such as a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reactive with trimethylammonium substituted epoxide, more specifically an α- [2-hydroxy-3- modified ω-ether; trimethylammonium) propyl] -ra-hydroxypoly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) chloride, known in the industry under (CFTA) trade name «· ·

Polyquaternium-10, commercially available from Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Conn., USA) as "JR" and "LR" such as "JR-125", "JR-400", JR-30M, diallyldimethylammonium chloride / hydroxyethylcellulose copolymers, referenced in the industry (CFTA) as Polyquaternium-4, available under the trade names "Celquat L 200" or "Celquat H-100" from the National Starch Company (Salisbury, NC) and polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose after reaction with epoxide "Quatrisoft" LM-200 polymer substituted with lauryldimethylammonium, referred to in the industry as Polyquaternium-24, available from Amerchol Corp. & (Edison, N.J., USA); starches, for example cationic starches such as 2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium chloride starch ether, commercially available under the trade names "Sta-Loc 300" and "Sta-Loc 400" from Stanley Inc. (Decateur, III., USA), which reacted with quaternal amines to form ethers at hydroxyl positions, hydroxyalkyl starch derivatives, arabinose monomer based polymers, xylose derived polymers, fucose derived polymers, fructose derived polymers, polymers acid-based sugars such as galacturonic acid and glucuronic acid polymers based on amine-containing sugars such as galactosamine and glucosamine and in particular acetylglucosamine, polyalcohols based on a five or six-ring ring, polymers based on galactose and polymers based on mannose monomers .

Suitable cationic polysaccharide rubber derivatives include galactomannan copolymer based polymer derivatives known as guar gum. For example, compounds such as hydroxypropyl guar gum derivatives are commercially available under the trade names "Jaguar HP-60", "Jaguar HP-8", "Jaguar HP-79", "Jaguar HP-120", "Jaguar HP-200" from Rhone -Poulenc or "Galactosol" available from Aqualon; a hydroxypropyl guar gum derivative with hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is commercially available under the tradename " Jaguar C-162 " from Rhône Poulenc; or polymeric compounds such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available, e.g., under the tradename "Jaguar C-14S", "Jaguar C-17", "Jaguar C-13S" from Rhone-Poulenc, "N-Hance" e.g. "N-Hance" 2196 "from Aqualon, Hercules Inc. (Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands), or" Cosmedia Guar 0-261 "from Henkel Inc. (Teaneck, NJ, USA).

The cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride suitable for use in the present invention are poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), 4 **

99

99999

999 9 commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-6 or under the trade names "Merquat 100" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA), "Agequat" 400 "from CPS Chemical Company (West Memphis, AR, USA) or" Mirapol 100 "from Rhone Poulenc; and polymeric, consisting of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride monomers, are commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-7 or under the trade name "Merquat 100" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA).

Cationic copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone suitable for use in the present invention include a solution of a copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylic acid with diethyl sulfate, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-11 or under the trade name "Gafquat 755N" by ISP, Wayne, NJ USA); a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt formed from methyl vinyl imidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-16 or under the trade name "Luviquat FC 370" from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA); vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-28 or under the trade name "GafquatHS-100" from ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA); a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt, consisting of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternal imidazoline monomers, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-44 or under the trade name "Luviquat MS370" from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA); a quaternary ammonium salt prepared by the reaction of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methyl vinyl imidazole methosulfate, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-46 or under the trade name "Luviquat Hold of BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA).

Cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or derivatives thereof suitable for use in the present invention include a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt prepared by reacting an ethyl methacrylate / abiethyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate commercially available under the tradename Polyquaternium-12; polymeric material; and a copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and DMAPA monomers, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-43 or under the trade name "Bozequat 4000" from Societe Francaise Hoescht.

* ·· · 4 9 4 • 9 9 9 • · • · · • • • • ···· * • · 9 • and • • ♦ 4 · • 9 • ♦ ··· • 4 ·· * 9 9

Cationic homopolymers or copolymers of ethanaminium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride suitable for use in the present invention are polymeric materials commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-45 or under the trade name "Plex 3073L" from Rohm GmbH (Germany); polymeric substance, ethanamine, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-32 or under the trade name "Salcare SC92" by Allied Colloids (Bradford, N. Yorkshire, UK); and a polymeric substance, ethanamine, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, a homopolymer commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-37 or under the trade name "Salcare SC92" from Allied Colloids (Bradford, N. Yorkshire, UK).

Other cationic polymers suitable for use in the present invention are poly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) (dimethyliminio) -1,3-propanediylimino carbonyl-imino-1,2-propanediyl (-dimethyliminio) -1,2 -ethanediyl dichloride, which is known in the industry as Polyquaternium-2 and is commercially available under the trade name Mirapol A-15 from Rhone-Poulenc; and dihydroxypropylchitosantrimonium chloride, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-29 or under the trade name Kytamer KC from Amerchol.

Amphoteric polymers useful in the compositions of the present invention include combinations of tertiary amine monomers that are combined with anionic monomers and may further comprise nonionic monomers, for example, methacrylamidopropyldimethylammonium / acrylic acid copolymer; and polymers derived from methacrylamidoethylcarboxymethylhydroxyethylamine monomers, which are shown below:

CH ₂ CH ₂ --- N

CH ₂ COOH ₂ CH ₂ OH

Basic polymers suitable for the compositions of the present invention include homopolymers of tertiary amine derivatives and copolymers with nonionic monomers. Examples of such suitable materials include a polyvinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer prepared from vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate monomers commercially available under the trade name PVP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer or under the trade name "Copolymer 845/937/958" from ISP, Wayne, USA, ; and polymers with substituted amino groups, such as ethyleneimine polymers, which correspond to the general formula (CH ₂ CH ₂ NH) _n ; such as PEI-10, wherein n has an average value of 10, which is commercially available under the trade name "Polymin FG" from BASF; PEI-15, wherein n has an average value of 15, which is commercially available under the tradename "Epomin SP-006" from Aceto; PEI-45, wherein n has an average value of 45, which is commercially available under the tradename "Epomin SP-018" from Aceto; or PE1-1400, wherein n has an average value of 1400, which is commercially available under the trade name "Nalco 634" from Nalco.

Zwitterionic polymers useful in the compositions of the present invention include polymers derived from methacrylamidopropyl betaine monomers, such as a copolymer of methacrylamidopropyl betaine and a nonionic monomer. An example of such a polymer is vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl betaine copolymer.

Preferred cation-containing polymers in the present invention are cationic polymers. Preferred for use in the present invention are such cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, selected from cation-containing cellulose derivatives, gum derivatives that have been formed by cation-containing polysaccharides, or mixtures thereof. The most preferred cationic polymeric film forming materials suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group of polyquatemium-10, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride derivative of guar, hydroxypropyl derivatives of guar gum, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferred for use in the present invention is polyquaternium-10.

It is preferred that the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 4% anionic surfactant, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant, more preferably less than 2% and most preferably less than 1% anionic surfactant, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant active substances.

In a preferred embodiment, when the compositions of the present invention comprise an anionic surfactant, the composition contains a cation-containing polymer to the anionic surfactant greater than 1.

• ·· ·· · · · · · · ·

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0% to 2% and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% of C 8 to C 30 fatty acids.

Polymer thickening agents

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one polymeric thickening agent.

Polymeric thickeners suitable for use in the present invention have an average molecular weight of greater than 20,000, more preferably greater than 50,000, and most preferably greater than 100,000.

When polymeric thickening agents are used in the compositions of the present invention, it would be advantageous for the content of monovalent to polyvalent metal ions to be less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.25% and even more preferably less than 0.05% in order to excessively they did not interfere with the stability of the polymers.

Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 8%, and most preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of their polymeric thickening agent or mixtures thereof.

It is believed that in compositions comprising polyol-like humectants and polymeric thickening agents, the polyol-like humectant may be physically associated with any polymeric thickening agents present in the composition. This physical association of the polyol-like humectant and polymeric thickening agents can further activate the tackiness already exhibited by the compositions containing high levels of the polyol-like humectants themselves.

Polymeric thickening agents that are preferred for use in the present invention include nonionic thickening agents and ionic thickening agents, or mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic thickeners include polyacrylamide polymers, cross-linked poly-N-vinylpyrrolidones, polysaccharides, natural or synthetic gums, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinyl alcohol. Suitable anionic thickening agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, carboxyvinyl polymers, and cross-linked copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. Particularly preferred thickeners for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof. Most preferred for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers.

Polyacrylamide polymers

The nonionic polyacrylamide polymers suitable for use in the present invention are substituted polyacrylamides, whether branched or unbranched. These polymers are nonionic, water dispersible polymers which can be formed from a variety of monomers, including acrylamide and methacrylamide, which are either unsubstituted or substituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably C ₁ -C ₅ ). Preferred are acrylate amides and methacrylate amides in which the amide nitrogen atom is unsubstituted or substituted by one or two C 1 -C 5 alkyl groups (preferred are: methyl, ethyl or propyl), for example acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide, N-methylmethacrylamide , N, N-dimethylmethacrylamide and Ν, Ν-dimethylacrylamide. These monomers are generally described in U.S. Patent No. 4,963,348, issued October 16, 1990 to Bolich et al., Which patent is incorporated herein by reference. These copolymers may optionally be formed using conventional neutral cross-linking agents such as dialkenyl-type compounds. The use of such cross-linking agents for cationic polymers is described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,628,078, issued December 9, 1986 to Glover et al., And U.S. Pat.

July 8, 1986 to Flescher et al., Both of which are incorporated herein by reference. These nonionic copolymers have a molecular weight of greater than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 1,500,000 and can reach a molecular weight of up to 30,000,000. The advantageous result of their synthesis by reverse phase emulsion polymerization is that these nonionic polyacrylamides are pre-dispersed in a water-immiscible solvent such as mineral oil and the like, and contain a high HLB surfactant (HLB from 7 to 10) that facilitates the dispersion of the polyacrylamide in water. Most preferred for use in the present invention is a nonionic polymer with a CFTA designation: polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers suitable for use in the present invention include multi-block copolymers of acrylamide and acrylamides substituted with acrylic acids or substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multiblock copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Paterson, NJ).

Cross-linked poly-N-vinylpyrrolidones · · · · ♦---------

Cross-linked poly-N-vinylpyrrolidones suitable for use in the present invention include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,139,770, issued August 18, 1992 to Shih et al., And U.S. Patent No. 5,073,614, issued September 17, 1992; These gel-forming agents typically comprise from 0.25% to 1% by weight of a cross-linking agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl ethers and diallyl terminal diol ethers containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycols containing from 2 to 600 units, dienes having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, divinylbenzene, vinyl and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol and the like. Typically, these gelling agents have a viscosity of from 25,000 mPa · s (cps) to 40,000 mPa · s (cps), measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25 ° C using a Brookfield RTV worm # 6 viscometer. at 10 rpm. Commercially available examples of these polymers include ACP-1120, ACP-1179 and ACP-1180, which are available from International Specialty Products (Wayne, NJ).

Polysaccharides

A wide variety of polysaccharides are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. The term "polysaccharides" refers to those gelling agents that contain repeating units of sugars (i.e., carbohydrates) as the backbone of their molecules. Examples of gel-forming polysaccharide agents include, but are not limited to, those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, acetylcellulose propionarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, cellulose sodium, microcrystalline cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, microcrystalline. Also suitable for use in the present invention are cellulose substituted alkyls. In these polymers, the hydroxyl groups of the cellulose polymer are substituted with hydroxyalkyl groups (preferably a hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl group) to form a hydroxyalkyl cellulose, which is further modified with C10-C30 unbranched or branched alkyl groups attached via an ether linkage. Typically, these polymers are ethers of hydroxyalkylcelluloses and alcohols with unbranched or branched chains of C10 to C30. Examples of alkyl groups suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e., alkyl groups derived from alcohols contained in coconut oil), palmityl , oleoyl, linoleoyl, linolenoyl, ricinoleoyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. For these hydroxyethylcellulose-based materials, the hydroxyethyl molar substitution is greater than 3.0. Preferred among the alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers is a substance with CTFA designated cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is an ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This substance is sold under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.

Other suitable polysaccharides include scleroglucans that contain a linear chain (1 to> 3) of linked glucose units with (1 to> 6) glucose units bound to every third unit, as exemplified by Clearogel ™ CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, N.J.).

Rubber

Other thickeners suitable for use in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gelan gum, hectorite , hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, karay gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyldextran gum, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carbonate.

Also suitable are acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B. F. Goodrich Company under the trade name Carbopol. Suitable Carbopol resins are described in WO98 / 22 085.

Cross-linked copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers with maleic anhydride.

In these copolymers, vinyl ethers are represented by the general formula RO-CH = CH 2, wherein R is C 1 -C 6 alkyl, preferably R is methyl. Preferred cross-linking agents are dienes C4 to C20, preferably dienes C6 to C16, and most preferred are dienes C8 to C12. A particularly preferred copolymer is a copolymer formed from methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, wherein the copolymer is cross-linked with decadiene and wherein the polymer, when dissolved as a 0.5% aqueous solution at pH 7 at 25 ° C, has a viscosity of 50,000 to 70,000 mPa.s (eps), as measured with a Brookfield RTV worm viscometer # 7 at 10 rpm. This copolymer has a CTFA designation PVMM / MA decadiene cross-linked polymer and is commercially available as Stabileze ™ 06 from International Specialty

Products (Wayne, NJ).

Oil phase

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous phase, each oil phase comprising one oil component or a mixture of oil components in miscible or homogeneous form. The different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials. The total amount of oil phase components in the compositions of the present invention is typically from 0.1% to 60%, preferably from 1% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 10%, and most preferably from 1.3% to 8% .

It is preferred that the oil phase components of the compositions of the present invention comprise a plasticizer or mixtures thereof, a polyol ester of a carboxylic acid, and a silicone oil, or mixtures thereof.

In preferred embodiments, the oil phase preferably comprises additional oil components such as natural or synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. These oil components are present in an amount of from 0.1% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of the composition. Preferred for this use are, for example, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and hydrocarbons such as mineral oils or petroleum petrolatum. Further examples suitable for use in the present invention are described in WO98 / 22 085. Preferred embodiments as described in WO98 / 22 085 contain from 0.1% to 10% by weight of their unsaturated fatty acid or ester.

Emollients

The compositions of the present invention may comprise emollients selected from branched chain hydrocarbons having an average molecular weight of from 100 to 15,000, preferably from 100 to 1000; they are compounds of formula I:

Wherein Fd is selected from H or CH 3, R 2, r 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1 to C 1 alkyl

Straight or branched chain C 20, and x is an integer from 1 to 20; and compounds of formula II:

R5

O

II - c

- OR ⁶ (II) wherein R 8 is benzyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 alkyl and R 8 is selected from branched or unbranched C 1 -C 20 alkyl; and mixtures thereof.

The branched chain hydrocarbons suitable for use in the present invention are selected from the group of isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosan, isoooktahexacontane, isohexapentacontahectan, isopentacontaoctactan and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons, sold under the tradename Permethyl (RTM) and commercially available from Prespers Inc., are suitable for use in the present invention. schr. 735, South Plainfield, N.J. 07080, USA. Suitable ester type emollients of the above general formula (I) include, but are not limited to, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearylneopentanoate, isononylisonanoate, isodecyloctanoate, isodecylisononanoate, tridecylisononanoate, myristyloctanoate, octylpelargonate, myristyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl. Suitable emollients of formula II include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoates.

Emollients preferred for use in the present invention are isohexadecane, isononylisonanoate, isodecyloctanoate, isodecylisononanoate, tridecylisononanoate, myristyloctanoate, octylisononanoate, myristylmyristate, methylisostearate, isopropylisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof.

Emollients particularly preferred for use in the present invention are isohexadecane, isononyl isisanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred that the emollients are present in the compositions in an amount of from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 8%, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the composition.

AA A 9 ··

A A A A

A ···· AA

A ♦ ··

A A A A A ·····

Esters of carboxylic acids with polyols

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise other emollients such as carboxylic acid esters of polyols.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The proportion of the polyol ester in the total weight of the oil in the composition is preferably from 1% to 30%, more preferably from 5% to 20%. In view of improving skin softness and smoothness, it is preferred that the weight ratio of carboxylic acid esters to polyols with respect to the aforementioned emollients is in the range of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably in the range of 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The polyol polyesters preferred for use in the present invention are C 1 to C 30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and the like. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol component and one or more carboxylic acid components. Depending on the acid and sugar components, these esters can be either liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples include: glucose tetraoleate, oleic acid galactose tetraesters, sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, sorbitol hexaester, in which the carboxylic acid components in the ester and the palmitide ratio are palmitooleate : 2 and octaester of sucrose in which the esterifying components of the carboxylic acids are lauric, linolenic and behenic in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. Other substances include cottonseed oil or sucrose esters of soybean oil fatty acids. Further examples of such materials are described in WO 96/16636, which is incorporated herein by reference. A particularly preferred substance is known under the INCI name "sucrose polycottonseedate".

Silicone oil

The present compositions preferably comprise at least one phase of silicone oil. The silicone oil phase generally comprises from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% of the composition. The silicone oil phase preferably comprises one or more silicone components.

The silicone components may be liquids, including both straight and branched chain silicones and cyclic silicones. Silicone fluids suitable for use in the present invention include silicones such as polyalkylsiloxane fluids, polyarylsiloxane fluids, cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated

...............

silicones, silicones modified with amino and quaternary amino groups, polyalkyarylsiloxanes or copolymers of polyetersiloxane and mixtures thereof. Silicone fluids may be volatile or nonvolatile. Silicone fluids have an average molecular weight of less than 200,000. Suitable silicone fluids have a molecular weight of 100,000 or less, preferably 50,000 or less, most preferably 10,000 or less. Preferably, the silicone fluid is selected from silicone fluids having an average molecular weight in the range of from 100 to 50,000, and preferably in the range of from 200 to 40,000.

Typically, the silicone fluids at 25 ° C have a viscosity in the range of from 0.65 to 600,000 mm 2 s ^- preferably from 0.65 to 10,000 mm 2.s ^- V The viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer such as that listed in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970. Polydimethylated siloxanes suitable for use in the present invention include, for example, those available from General Electric Company as SF and Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as Dow Corning 200 series. Substantially non-volatile polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities at 25 ° C of from 0.65 to 30,000 mm 2 s -1 are also suitable. For example, these siloxanes are available from General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl liquid and from Dow Corning as cosmetic grade 556 liquid. Cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes suitable for use in the present invention are those whose ring structure contains 3 to 7 (CH 3) 2 SiO components.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone fluid is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenylmethicone and mixtures thereof.

Silicone rubbers may also be used herein. The term "silicone rubber" as used herein means high molecular weight silicones whose average molecular weight exceeds 200,000 and is preferably from 200,000 to 4,000,000. These include nonvolatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane gums. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil phase comprises a silicone rubber or a mixture of silicones including silicone rubber. Typically, the silicone gums at 25 ° C have a viscosity in excess of 1,000,000 mm 2 ^{· s} -1. Silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch et al., U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416, May 1, 1979 to Spitzer et al., And Noll and Walter, Silicone Chemistry and Technology, New York: Academic Press 1968. Silicone The erasers are also described in the data sheets of the manufactured · · · · · · · · · · * * * * · · * * * * * * * · General Electric Silicone Rubber (SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76) · ············ Specific examples of silicone gums include polydimethylsiloxane, copolymer (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane), poly (dimethylsiloxane) - (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Silicone gums suitable for use in the present invention are silicone gums having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

The silicone phase used herein preferably comprises a silicone gum which is included in the composition as part of a mixture of liquid silicone gums. When the silicone gum is included as part of the liquid silicone gum mixture, the silicone gum preferably constitutes from 5% to 40%, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of the liquid silicone gum mixture. Mixtures of liquid silicone gums suitable for use in the present invention are those consisting essentially of:

(i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; and ii) a carrier which is a silicone fluid, wherein the carrier has a viscosity of from 0.65 mm ² to 100 m 2. s ~ 1.

wherein the ratio of i) and ii) is from 10:90 to 20:80 and wherein component-based silicone rubber has a final viscosity of 100 mm ² .s ^{- /} 'to 100,000 mm ² .s ^- ^, preferably from 500 mm2 s1 to 10,000 mrn ^ .s ^-1 .

A component of the silicone gum blend particularly suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention is dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000 along with a liquid silicone carrier having a viscosity of from 0.65 to 100. silicone component is

Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 mm ^{2nd _1} s Dimethicone Fluid / 15% Dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401, available from Dow Corning.

Other silicone components that are suitable for use in the silicone oil phase of the present invention are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers, which may be dispersed in a liquid carrier. Generally, when cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers are present, they together with the carrier (if present) constitute 0.1% to 20%, preferably 0.5% to 10%, more preferably 0.5% to 5% of the composition. Such polymers include polyorganosiloxane polymers cross-linked with a cross-linking agent. Suitable cross-linking agents are described in WO98 / 22 085. Examples of polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use

4 4 44 44

In the present invention, methyl vinyldimethicone, methylvinyldiphenyldimethicone and methylvinylphenylmethyldiphenyldimethicone.

Specific commercially available cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in the present invention are cross-linked silicone-vinyl blends available under the trade name KSG and available from Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd, for example KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG- 17 and KSG-18. These materials comprise a combination of a cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone fluid. A particularly suitable material in combination with the organic amphiphilic emulsifying material is KSG-18. The determined INCI names for KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG17 and KSG-18 are cyclomethicondimethicon / vinyldimethicone cross-polymer, dimethicondimethicone / vinyldimethicone cross-polymer, cyclomethicondimethicone / vinyldimethicone cross-polymer, and phenyltrimethicondimimimethicon / phenyl cross-polymer, respectively.

Another class of silicone components suitable for use in the silicone oil phase of the present invention includes polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers comprising at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene cell. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane sections and copolymers thereof are described in WO98 / 22 085. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers are commercially available under the trade names Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8 000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from . Goldsmith Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL such as Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183. A particularly preferred mixture of liquid copolymers for use in the present invention is Dow Corning DC3225C having the CTFA designation Dimethicone / Dimethicone copolyol.

Amphiphilic surfactants

Another preferred component of the compositions of the present invention is an organic amphiphilic surfactant which is capable of forming lyotropic crystals either in the product or after the product is applied to the skin at room temperature or at elevated temperature. It has been found that organic amphiphilic surfactants are particularly useful herein to improve the stability of the compositions of the present invention and to improve the sensation obtained upon application to the skin. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise nonionic surfactants in an amount of from 0.01% to 4%, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% and even more preferably from 0.08% to 2%. Preferred classes of nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention and their properties are described in WO98 / 22 085, which is incorporated herein by reference. Preferred for use in the present invention are those sugar esters with one, two and three substituted acyls and mixtures thereof, wherein the substituted acyls contain from 8 to 24, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and 0, 1 or 2 unsaturated components and polyethylene glycol derivatives. or mixtures thereof. Highly preferred for use in the present invention is a mixture of fatty acid esters based on a mixture of fatty acid esters with sorbitan or sorbitol and a sucrose fatty acid ester, in each case the fatty acids preferably having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms. A preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier for skin moisturization is a mixture of fatty acid esters (0-? C to C20) with sorbitan or sorbitol with sucrose fatty acid ester (C? O?) Especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose ester with coconut oil. available from ICI under the tradename Arlatone 2121.

Humidifiers

The compositions of the present invention may contain other humectants which are preferably present in an amount of from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 15%, and particularly preferably from 0.5% to 15% .

Other humectants suitable for use in the present invention are sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (NaPCA), guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolic acid salts (e.g., ammonium salts or with an alkylated quaternal amino group); lactic acid and lactic acid salts (eg, ammonium salts or with an alkylated quaternal amino group); aloe vera in any of its various forms (eg, aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, salts such as sodium hyaluronic acid); monoethanolaminlactamide; monoethanolamine acetamide; urea; panthenol and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

At least a portion (up to 5% by weight of the composition) of the additional humectants may be added in admixture with a particular crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, which itself is preferably present in an amount of from 0.1% to 10%, and may be added to either an aqueous or dispersed phase. This copolymer is particularly suitable for reducing gloss, while providing effective wetting and is described in detail in WO96 / 03 964, which is incorporated herein by reference.

• 4 ·

The above compounds may be included either alone or in combination. Preferred additional humectants can be selected from: urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred from the viewpoint of enhancing skin moisturization is a combination of glycerin and urea. In a preferred embodiment, the urea is preferably present in the range of from 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% and especially from 1% to 5% by weight of the composition.

In preferred embodiments, when an oil phase and an organic surfactant are present, they are premixed in water at a temperature above the Kraft point of the organic amphiphilic surfactant (but preferably below 60 ° C) to form prior to the addition of urea in aqueous crystal / oil liquid phase dispersion. It has been found that urea, when used to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion in a skin care composition, in combination with an amphiphilic emulsifying surfactant and a polyol fatty acid polyester is particularly effective to provide excellent moisturizing and skin softening.

A wide variety of optional additional ingredients, such as thickening agents, non-occluding humectants, neutralizing agents, perfumes, coloring agents and surfactants, can also be added to these skin care compositions.

Other additional thickeners suitable for use in the present invention are water-soluble lubricants such as glyceryl polymethacrylate (such as Hispagel®); polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. No. 11,787, and mixtures thereof. In general, Lubrajels can be described as hydrates or clathrates, which are formed by reacting sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. Then, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by control of the hydration of the resulting product. Lubricants are sold in a number of variants, varying in glycerate polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajels include Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and the so-called Lubrajel Oil.

Optionally, other cation-containing polymers can be added to the compositions of the present invention. These other cation-containing polymers include an ampholytic polymer. Suitable ampholytic polymers include a copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-22 or under the trade name · · · · · · · · · · "Merquat 280" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA); a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of acrylic acid, diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-39 or under the trade name "Merquat Plus 3330" or "Merquat Plus 3331" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA); produced by the polymerization of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-47 or under the trade name "Merquat 2001N" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA).

A wide variety of optional additional ingredients such as non-occluding humectants, neutralizing agents, perfumes, coloring agents and surfactants can also be added to these skin care compositions.

Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing the acid groups contained in hydrophilic gelling agents include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tris buffer, and triethanolamine.

The compositions of the present invention are generally in the form of an emulsion and are preferably formulated such that the viscosity of the product is at least 4,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range of 4,000 to 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 8,000 to 250,000. mPa.s and particularly preferably from 10,000 to 200,000 mPa.s and even more preferably from 10,000 to 150,000 mPa.s (25 ° C, undiluted, Brookfield RTV, TC worm at 5 rpm and Heliopath Stand).

The compositions of the present invention may also contain from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5% of panthenol humectant. The panthenol for wetting may be selected from the group D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3-hydroxypropyl)] - 3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, sodium panthotenate, rabbit jelly, panthetin, pantothein, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B complex

Other additives include keratolytic / skin peeling agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble preservatives preferably in an amount of from 0.1% to 5% such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-) 2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; antibacterial agents such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably in an amount of from < tb > < tb > < tb > < tb > ···

0.1% to 5%); soluble or colloid humectants such as hylaronic acid and starch mixed sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM2500, available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in US-A- 4,076,663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, and vitamin K; alpha and beta hydroxy acids; aloe vera; sphingosines and phytosphingosines, cholesterol; skin whitening agents; N-acetylcysteine; coloring agents; perfumes and perfume solvents.

Sunscreening agents are also suitable for use in the present invention. A wide variety of sunscreen agents is described in U.S. Patent 5,087,445, issued February 11, 1992 to Haffey et al .; U.S. Patent 5,073,372, issued December 17, 1991 to Turner et al .; U.S. Patent 5,073,371, issued December 17, 1991 to Turner et al .; and in Segarin et al., Chapter Vlil, pages 189 et seq. in Cosmetic Science and Technology. Among these sunscreens useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p- aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthylsalicylate, octylsalicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzilidene) titanate, camphor, , zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, Octocrylene, Parsol 1789 and mixtures thereof. Still other suitable sunscreen agents are those described in U.S. Patent 4,937,370, issued June 26, 1990 to Sabatellim; and U.S. Patent 4,999,186, issued March 12, 1991 to Sabatelli et al.

Generally, sunscreen agents may comprise from 0.5% to 20% of the compositions of the present invention. The exact amounts will vary depending upon the agent selected and the desired sun protection factor (SPF). SPF is generally used to measure the protective ability of an anti-redness agent. See Federal Register, Volume 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-3869, August 25, 1978.

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise from 0.1% to 5% by weight of a starch derivative of aluminum octenyl succinate. The starch aluminum octenyl succinate derivative is an aluminum salt of the starch octenyl succinic anhydride reaction product and is commercially available under the tradename Dry Flo from National Starch & Dry Flo is suitable for use because of the sensation it causes in the skin and the characteristics of its use.

Possible other substances used herein include pigments which, if insoluble in water, contribute to and are included in the total amount of oil phase components. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic. Also included in the term pigments are substances that are poorly colored or shiny, such as matt surface treatment agents as well as light scattering agents. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise particulate matter having a refractive index of from 1.3 to 1.7, the particulate matter dispersed throughout the composition, and having an average particle size of from 2 to 30 microns. . Preferably, the particles suitable for use in the present invention have a relatively narrow size distribution, meaning that more than 50% of the particles by their size fall within + 3 micrometers of the respective average value. It is also preferred that more than 50%, more preferably more than 60%, even more preferably more than 70%, of the particles fall within the size ranges prescribed for the appropriate average values. Suitable particulate materials are organic or organosilicon, and are preferably organosilicon polymers. Preferred particles are compacts. By the term "compact" is meant that the particles are not hollow. The void space in the center of the hollow particles can adversely affect the refractive index and hence the visual impression that these particles produce on the skin or in the device. Suitable particulate organic materials are those prepared from the polymethylsilsesquioxane mentioned above, polyamide, polythene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and polyvinylidene chloride. Copolymers derived from the monomers of the aforementioned substances can also be used. Inorganic substances include silica and boron nitride. Representative examples of suitable, commercially available particulate materials are Tospearl® 145 having an average particle size of 4.5 µm and EA-209® from Kobo, which is an ethylene-acrylic acid copolymer having an average particle size of 10 µm, or mixtures thereof .

Other examples of suitable pigments are titanium dioxide, pre-dispersed titanium dioxide from Kobo, e.g., Kobo GWL75CAP, iron oxides, acyglutamate complex with iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending on the formulation, a mixture of these pigments will normally be used. Pigments preferred for use in the present invention in terms of skin moisturization, acquired skin feel and appearance, and emulsion compatibility are

treated pigments. The pigments may be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and oil esters.

Vitamin B3

The compositions of the present invention may also contain a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 50%, more preferably from 0.1% to 20%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 10%, even more preferably from 1% to 8% and most preferably from 1.5% to 6% of a compound of the vitamin B3 family.

As used herein, the term "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound of the formula:

wherein R is -CONH 2 (i.e. niacinamide), -COOH (i.e. nicotinic acid) or CH 2 OH (i.e. nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of these compounds. Examples of derivatives of the aforementioned vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vascular nicotinic esters, nicotinyl amino acid derivatives, nicotinyl alcohol carboxylic acid esters, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.

Suitable nicotinic acid esters include nicotinic acid esters of C 1 to C 22 alcohols, preferably nicotinic acid esters of C 1 to C 22 alcohols. to C 1 -C 6 alcohols, more preferably nicotinic acid esters of C 1 -C 6 alcohols. Preferred are straight or branched chain alcohols, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. These are preferably esters that do not expand blood vessels. As used herein, the term "non-dilating vessels" means that the ester does not normally cause visible redness after application of the compositions to the skin (most of the general population would not have visible redness, although such compounds may cause vascular enlargement that is not visible to the naked eye). Nicotinic acid esters that do not cause vascular expansion include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate, with tocopherol nicotinate being preferred. A more detailed description of the compounds of the vitamin B3 family is given in WO98 / 22 085.

• ·

About · ······

...............

Examples of the above-mentioned vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St, Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and the Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI). One or more compounds of the vitamin B3 family may be used in the present invention. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. More preferred is niacinamide.

Retinoids

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention also include retinoids. The vitamin B3 compound and the retinoid provide unexpectedly beneficial effects in regulating skin condition, particularly in the therapeutic control of skin aging symptoms, particularly as regards wrinkles and pores. Compounds of the vitamin B3 family are believed to enhance the conversion of certain retinoids to trans-retinoic acid, which is considered to be a biologically active form of retinoids, to regulate skin condition (namely, increased conversion to retinol, retinol esters and retinal). Furthermore, vitamin B3 compounds unexpectedly alleviate redness, inflammation, dermatitis and similar symptoms, which may also be associated with topical application of retinoids (the symptom is often described and is referred to herein as "retinoid dermatitis"). Furthermore, the combination of a compound of the vitamin B3 family and retinoids tends to increase the amount and activity of thioredoxin, which increases the level of collagen expression with the AP-1 protein. Therefore, the present invention makes it possible to reduce activity and thus reduce the potential for retinoid dermatitis while retaining significant positive effects on skin condition control. Further, higher levels of retinoids can still be used to obtain greater efficacy in skin condition control without showing retinoid dermatitis.

The term "retinoid" is intended to include all natural and / or synthetic vitamin A analogues or retinol-like compounds that exhibit the biological activity of vitamin A on the skin as well as geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. Preferably, the retinool is retinol, retinol esters (e.g., retinol esters of C 2 -C 22 alkyls including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or retinoic acid (including trans-retinoic acid and / or 13-cis- retinoids other than retinoic acid are more preferred. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, e.g., Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO) and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Preferred retinoids are retinol, palmitate, φ, φ, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit, mit,

Retinyl, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retino) and retinyl palmitate. The retinoid may be used as a substantially pure substance or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (e.g.

plant) resources.

The compositions preferably comprise from 0.05% to 2%, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% retinoid. Retinol is most commonly used in an amount of from 0.01% to 0.15%; retinol esters are most commonly used in an amount of from 0.01% to 2% (eg, 1%).

Suitably, the pH of the compositions of the present invention is greater than 4, preferably greater than 4.25, and even more preferably greater than 4.75, it is also preferred that the pH of the compositions is less than 9, more preferably less than The water content of the compositions herein is generally from 30% to 98.89%, preferably from 50% to 95%, and especially from 60% to 90% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of a moisturizing cream or lotion that can be applied to the skin by application. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Examples 1 to 6

Component % % % % % % weight Glycerine 7.00 7.00 9.00 12.00 15.00 - Polyethylene glycol 2001 - 3.00 - - 10.00 Urea - 2.20 1.80 - - - Kronos (TiO2) ² - 0.15 0.15 - 0.15 0.15 Kobo GWL75CAP ⁴ 0.50 - 0.20 0.30 - - Tospearl 145a ^ - - 0.50 2.00 - - Arlatone2121 ⁵ 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Sepigel 305 ⁷ 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 Sodium hydroxide (40% solution) 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.08 0.10 0.10 Hydrofol acid 0.09 0.10 0.12 0.13 0.10 0.10 Myrj 60 ⁷ 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

··············································· ··

Stearyl alcohol 0.38 0.40 0.32 0.48 0.80 1,2 Cetyl alcohol 0.80 1.00 0.72 0.72 1.80 0.80 Isopropyl isostearate ^{1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9} 1.50 0.75 1.50 1.00 0.5 2.00 SEFA Cottonate ¹⁰ 1.00 1.50 0.75 1.80 - - Isohexadekan 1.00 - - - 0.50 1.00 Petroleum jelly - - - 1.20 0.50 Ethylparaben 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 Propylparaben 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.25 0.25 Benzyl alcohol 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 0.25 0.30 D-panthenol 0.50 0.50 - - 0.50 1.00 Niacinamide 2.00 5.00 8.00 10.00 10.00 12.00 At ₂ -EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 DC 02-14031 ° 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.50 2.00 2.50 Tocopherol acetate 0.50 0.25 0.25 0.75 0.50 - Polyquaternium 10H 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.50 0.50 N-Hance 2196-4 - 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.50 0.50 Deionized water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100

1. Supplied by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn., USA

2. Delivers Kronos, 4 Crying Ville Marie # 500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada

3. Delivers Kobo Products Inc, 690 Montrose Ave, So Plainfield, NJ 07080

4. Supplied by GE Silicones, Plasticslaan 1 / PO Box 117, 4600 AC, Bergen op Zoom, The Netherlands

5. Supplied by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Center, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England. TS6 8JE

6. Adds Seppic, 75 Quai DOrsay, Paris

7. PEG 100 stearate is supplied by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Center, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England. TS6 8JE

8. Delivered by Scher Chemicals Inc, Industrial West, Clifton, NJ 07 012

9. C 1 to C 30 monoesters or polyesters of sugars and one or more of the carboxylic acid components described herein, preferably sucrose polyesters having a degree of esterification of 7 to 8 and in which the constituents are C 18 Unsaturated and / or double unsaturated fatty acids and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic 1: 7 to 3: 5, more preferably an octaester of sucrose, wherein there are 7 behenic fatty acid components and one oleic acid component in the molecule, eg, a sucrose fatty acid ester of cottonseed oil.

10. Delivered by Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1 4EX

11. Provided by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn., USA

12. Delivered by Aqualon (Hercules Inc), Noordweg 9, 3336 LH Zwinjndrecht, PO Box

71, 3330 AB Zwinjndrecht, The Netherlands

The resources are prepared as follows:

The first preformed mixture of anionic thickeners (if present), a mixture of glycerin / TiO2, a cation-containing polymer, Arlaton 2121, if present, and other water-soluble components other than urea, is prepared by mixing them into water and the resulting solution it is then heated to 80 ° C. A second preformed mixture of the oil phase components, including emulsifiers, oil-soluble preservatives, in addition to the silicone oil, is prepared by mixing and heating them and then added to the preformed aqueous mixture.

If an anionic thickener is present, sodium hydroxide is then added to neutralize the composition to a pH of 6 to 7.5, before stirring and cooling to 60 ° C. In the presence of polymeric nonionic thickeners, the process proceeds as described above, only the polymeric thickener eg Sepigel 305 (polyacrylamide) is not added unless the mixture is cooled to 60 ° C. Sepigel 305 is added with stirring and then a NaOH solution is added. In both cases, EDTA, silicone oil and then urea solution (1 g dissolved in 1 ml water) are then added to the resulting oil / water emulsion and the mixture is cooled before the addition of minor ingredients. The composition is ready for packaging.

The compositions exhibit high humectant efficacy without causing a sticky feeling, also have good rheological, absorbent and insulating properties, and have beneficial effects on the softness and smoothness of the skin, and induce good skin feel.

Claims (13)

PATENT CLAIMS Cosmetic composition which is left on the skin and suitable for topical application, characterized in that it comprises: (a) from 6% to 20% of polyhydric alcohol or mixtures thereof; and b) a polymer comprising cations selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwiterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; wherein the composition comprises less than 4% of anionic, zwiterionic or amphoteric surfactant. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it preferably contains from 7% to 15% and more preferably from 8% to 12% by weight of polyhydric alcohol or mixtures thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, hexantriol, ethoxy derivative of glycerin and propoxy derivative of glycerin or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group of glycerin, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cation-containing polymer is a cationic polymer. The composition of claim 5, wherein the cationic polymer is a cationic polysaccharide or derivatives thereof, and is selected from the group consisting of cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic polysaccharide derivatives of rubber, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the cation-containing polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-10, 9 9 9 99 9 9 9 9 9 99 Guar hydroxypropyl chloride derivative, guar gum hydroxypropyl derivative or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, of a polymer comprising cations, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it preferably contains less than 2%, and more preferably less than 1%, of an anionic, zwiterionic or amphoteric surfactant. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein when the composition comprises an anionic surfactant, the ratio of the cation-containing polymer to the anionic surfactant in the composition is greater than 1. Cosmetic skin care method, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 is applied to the skin. Use of a cation-containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwiterionic polymers or mixtures thereof to reduce the sticky feeling of a skin care composition comprising from 6% to 20% polyhydric alcohol or mixtures thereof. Use of a composition comprising from 6% to 20% polyhydric alcohol or mixtures thereof; and a cation-containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwiterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, for a cosmetic composition that can be left on the skin after application.